Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 3 coats of SC060 Silver Lining to the front of the plate. Apply with a RB144 Soft Fan.
Apply 3 coats of SP212 Speckled Moody Blue to the rim and back of the plate. Apply with a RB144 Soft Fan.
Cut out all the snowflakes from the silkscreens and place them smooth side down randomly on the top of the plate.
Thicken SC045 My Blue Heaven with AC310 Silkscreen Medium, use a palette knife and mix to the consistency of peanut butter. Rub the thicken glaze over the screen with your finger. Gently remove the silkscreen.
Repeat step 5 with SC065 Peri Twinkle.
Gently clean the glaze off the silkscreen with water and let them dry.
Once both the plate and snowflakes are dry repeat step 5 with SC031 The Blues and SC058 501 Blues, the snowflakes will overlap the SC045 My Blue Heaven and SC065 Peri Twinkle snowflakes.
Fill in the SC031 The Blues and SC058 501 Blues snowflakes with SC037 Ivory Tower, apply 3 coats with an AB704 Round Brush.
Finally dip your toothbrush into SC058 501 Blues and slide your thumb between the bristles to spatter the top of the plate.
Begin by wiping down the bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Using the Detail liner brush, apply three coats of EL128 Wheat to 4 dots in a diamond pattern in the center of the outside dots.
Surround the diamond with a single row of three coats of EL127 Rose Granite .
Outline the row of Rode Granite with a row of 3 coats of EL132 Rust Red.
Using the Script Liner Brush, apply three coats of EL129 Slate to two rows of dots outside the Rust Red diamond, the diamonds of Slate should now touch each other.
Begin filling in the chevrons outside the Slate diamonds with a single row of EL149 Lavender Flower.
After Lavender Flower, fill in a single chevron of EL118 Blue Grotto.
Finish up the chevrons with 3 coats of EL131 Turtle Shell.
Using the fan brush, apply three coats of EL101 Oyster Shell to the bottom of the planter, including the last row of dots.
Using the Fan Brush, apply three coats of EL131 Turtle Shell to the inside of the planter.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Put approximately 1oz of SC098 Slime Time into a small cup.
Add a splash of water and mix it into SC098 Slime Time.
Add approx. 1oz of SC007 Leapin’ Lizard into the same cup. Do Not Mix.
Add approx. 1oz of SC093 Honeydew List into the same cup.
Use the end of your brush to make some X’s into the cup. Do Not completely mix the glazes together.
Pour the cup over the entire plate, move the plate around and let the excess fall off onto the plate. This will leave behind a marbled effect. (Tip: Save the excess to create glaze crumbles later.)
Let the plate dry completely.
Cut out each induvial shape on the turtle. The numbers on the turtle will be important to keep the shapes in the correct pattern.
Place the pattern of the turtle onto the middle of the plate, leaving space in between each shape. Pat each piece with a damp sponge to help them stay in place.
Apply 3 coats of SC076 Cara-bein Blue over the entire plate including the paper pattern. Let dry until the shine is gone, remove the pattern from the plate. (Tip: Apply the color from the inside of each piece of paper going outward to help keep the edges from pulling up.)
Apply 3 coats of SC076 Cara-bein Blue the back of the plate.
Divide the stacked rocks into color sections, using Sapphire, Capri Blue, and Norse Blue so each individual rock is a single color.
Using a #4 fan brush, apply 2 coats of your chosen base glaze to each rock, allowing each coat to dry before applying the next.
Once the base glazes are dry, apply 1 generous coat of SW214 Micro Pearl in a band around the top 1 inch of every rock. Allow the Micro Pearl to dry completely.
Apply 2 coats of SW227 Tidal Wave over the Micro Pearl band. Paint the Tidal Wave with an irregular, organic edge, extending slightly beyond the Micro Pearl to create the look of frosting dripping over the edge of a doughnut. Allow each coat to dry before applying the next.
Wipe off any excess glaze from the foot of your piece. Do not stilt. Fire to Cone 6 according to your kiln manufacturer’s firing schedule.
Trace the poppy flower design onto tissue paper using a pencil.
Position the tissue paper on the bowl and transfer the design by tracing over the lines with a water-based marker. The moisture from the marker transfers the pattern onto the bowl, leaving a guide for painting.
Thin each E-Z Stroke color with water until it reaches the consistency of ink.
Using assorted round brushes, paint each flower:
Fill some flowers with Passion Red (EZ075) and others with Poppy Orange (EZ058).
Add a small accent in the center using the coordinating color to create subtle shading and dimension:
Passion Red flowers → accent with Coral Red (EZ057).
Poppy Orange flowers → accent with Orange (EZ034).
Allow the EZ strokes to dry thoroughly.
Using a #10 liner brush, add tiny lines with dots attached to the middle of each flower for extra detail and visual interest so they look more like poppies!
Once all of the E-Z Stroke decoration is completely dry, apply 2 even coats of SW004 Zinc-Free Clear to the inside and outside of the bowl (avoiding the foot of the bowl. Stoneware pieces are not stilted when fired, so the foot needs to be free of glaze) using a Mayco #4 Fan Brush, allowing the first coat to dry before applying the second.
Fire to Cone 6 following your normal stoneware firing schedule.
Trace your fish template onto a piece of tissue paper using a pencil.
Place the tissue paper onto the plate and transfer the design by tracing over the pencil lines with a water-based marker. The moisture from the marker transfers the pattern to the pottery, leaving a guide for painting.
Thin each E-Z Stroke color with water until it reaches the consistency of watercolor paint.
Using a small round brush or the detail liner brush, fill each fish with washes of Dutch Blue (EZ035) and Cool Blue (EZ110) and Midnight Blue (EZ023). Allow the colors to flow and blend naturally, creating a loose watercolor effect. Add more or less pigment to achieve the level of transparency and movement you desire.
Once the fish are dry, use Midnight Blue (EZ023) to outline each fish, defining the shapes while maintaining the soft watercolor appearance.
Using the same Midnight Blue and a small round brush, paint loose, random squiggly lines around the rim of the plate to create a playful border inspired by gentle waves and flowing water.
Allow the plate to dry completely.
Apply 2 even coats of SW004 Zinc-Free Clear to the entire plate using a #4 Fan Brush, allowing each coat to dry before applying the next. Don’t paint the bottom of the plate.
Fire to Cone 6 following your normal stoneware firing schedule.
Start with a 6 x 6 bisque tile. Wipe the surface gently with a damp sponge to remove any dust.
Using a brush, apply 1 coat of Stroke & Coat Cotton Tail (SC016) to the entire tile.
In a small cup, mix the bubble glaze solution:
1 tablespoon water
1 tablespoon Stroke & Coat Blue Yonder (SC011)
2 drops dish detergent
Stir the mixture gently.
Place a straw into the cup and blow through the straw to create bubbles. Let the bubbles rise and spill over onto the tile.
Continue adding bubbles until most or all of the tile is covered. A mix of small foamy bubbles and larger airy bubbles creates an especially interesting effect.
Allow the bubbles to pop, and once the bubble layer begins to lose its shine, move on to the next step.
Apply Stroke & Coat Tuxedo (SC015) to the rubber fish or turtle stamp using a sponge.
Press the stamp onto the tile to create a school of fish, with or without turtles.
Begin by wiping down the bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Using a fingertip, apply two red dots that overlap to create the main body of the apple. Create a cluster of apples at the base of the bowl and a ring of apples around the outside edge.
Using the Detail Liner Brush, add a brown stem to the top of each apple.
To the stem, use a detail liner brush to create one or two small green leaves.
Using the Script Liner brush and the blue glaze, create single coat horizontal and vertical lines to the bottom half and base of each bowl (On the Stroke &Coat bowl, do not apply color to the foot of the bowl). Create single coat vertical, evenly spaced blue lines running to the apples in the center of the bowl.
Using the red glaze and detail liner brush create two thin bands to separate the apples from the blue lines on the inside, and one band on the outside.
Once the glaze has dried inside the bowl, apply two coats of SW004 Zinc Free clear to the entire inside of the bowl.
Begin by wiping down the bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Apply two coats of EL101 Oyster shell to the bottom of the mug and coming up the sides, stopping at the top of the handle attachment.
Apply two coats of EL118 Blue Grotto to the inside of the mug and outside about a brush width down. (overlapping the EL101)
Using the PC601 clear cascade in an AC222 writer tip kit bottle (without the metal writer tip) apply two rings to the brush width of EL118 Blue Grotto on the outside of the mug.
Begin by wiping down the bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Apply two coats of SP286 Speckled Old Lace to the back and front of the plate with a Soft Fan brush.
Place the AC224 Detailer Caps on the other colors. Apply your colors in concentric circles. Only 1 coat is needed.
Take a toothpack and lightly drag the colors inside the ornament in a pattern to create a tie-dye look. Be sure not to press down too hard or the color underneath will lift through.
Place an AC224 Detailer Cap and AC227 Medium Writer Tip on your SC015 Tuxedo bottle. Using Tuxedo, your circle(s) and add your ornament details (string, cap, bow, etc).
Using a #4 Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 coats of EG002 Speckled Buff Engobe to the bottom 2/3 of the mug including the handle and the bottom of the mug.
Apply 3 coats of SW165 Lavender Mist to the entire inside of the mug and to the top ½ of the mug with a #4 Soft Fan Brush including the handle.
In a wavy pattern, apply 2 coats of SW228 Beetlewing with a #4 Soft Fan Brush to the bottom 2/3 of the mug, overlapping Lavender Mist including the handle.
Do not wipe the engobe off the foot of the piece, since engobes do not stick to the kiln shelf.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust. Do not oversaturate the bisque with water.
With a #4 Soft Fan Brush (RB144) apply 3 coats of SW101 Stoned Denim in a wavy pattern to the bottom 3rd of the vase.
Apply 2 coats of SW196 Sand Dollar in a wavy pattern to the middle of the vase, overlapping SW101 Stoned Denim by ¼”
With a #4 Soft Fan brush, apply 2 coats SW189 Cenote to the entire inside of the vase and the top 1/3 of the vase overlapping SW196 Sand Dollar by about 2”.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using SG101 Rapid Roll White, squeeze around ¼ cup into the vase. Quickly roll the vase to coat the inside. Pour out extra glaze and discard. Place the vase upside down on a paper towel for at least 30 seconds to fully drain.
Using RB144 #4 Soft Fan with SP286 Speckled Old Lace, apply 3 coats to the front and back of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out around 1 Tbsp of SC006 Sunkissed, SC009 Jaded, SC075 Orange-A-Peel onto the palette.
Dip a sponge on a stick into one of the glazes from Step #4. Sponge onto the front of the vase. Repeat with all of the colors until you have your desired number of flowers. Repeat on the back of the vase.
Using FD254 Black Licorice add decorative petals, stems, and leaves to your flowers.
Using RB144 #4 Soft Fan with SC009 Jaded, apply 3 coats to the sides and top of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
In the middle of the front, back, and spine on the book apply 3 coats of SC086 Old Lace using a sponge on a stick. Do not apply to the edges of the book.
Apply 3 coats of SC054 Vanilla Dip about one to two inches away from the edge of the book with a sponge eon a stick.
Apply 1 coat of SC046 Rawhide to the very edges of the book. Apply with a sponge on q stick.
Apply 3 coats of SC086 Old Lace to the inside and pages of the book. Apply with a CB602 Soft Fan.
Once the outside is dry, apply the Clay Carbon Paper ruff side down then place the pattern over top. Out line the pattern with a pencil, once finished lift the pattern and transfer paper.
Outline the entire design in SG408 Brown Designer Liner, then fill in the words and one of the circles. Apply one coat.
Apply a rim on the front and back with the SG408 Designer Liner then apply two thick lines at the top and bottom of the spine then add 2 thinner lines between the thicker lines. Apply one coat.
Once dry apply 3 coats of CC101 Transparent Crackle to the front, back, spine and inside of the book. Apply with a CB602 Soft Fan.
Fire to cone 06.
Once out of the kiln wait a day to apply OS489 Saddle Brown to the crackle. Place a bit of the paint onto a paper towel and wipe it into all the cracks, then wipe it away.
Begin by wiping down the bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Cut out the full whale shark from the first pattern, and the whale shark head with the fin trails from the second pattern.
Apply two coats of SC016 Cotton Tail to the whole face of the plate
Put the full whale shark cutout somewhere on the plate and apply a third coat of SC016 Cotton Tail over the top of it, extending about an inch beyond the edges of the paper cutout.
Apply three coats of SC032 Bluebeard over the whole face of the plate with the soft fan brush.
When the shine is gone, peel up the paper shark to reveal the silhouette in white.
Match up the head of the shark silhouette with the paper cut out that has the fin trails.
Dip the toothbrush in Cotton Tail and splatter white over the whole plate.
Begin by wiping down the bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Mix the silkscreen medium into SC071 Purple-iscious in the 2 oz portion cup and set aside.
Stick the butterfly stickers randomly across the face of the plate.
Apply three coats of SC103 Lavendear to the whole face of the plate.
When the shine is gone, peel up the butterfly stickers.
Apply the different sized butterfly silkscreens with the silkscreen medium mixture and SC071 randomly across the face of the plate, overlapping some areas that the stickers left open.
Apply three coats of SC071 Purple-iscious to the back of the plate
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place the Clay Carbon transfer paper in the middle of the platter, rough side down, and place the lobster pattern on top.Trace the pattern of the lobster with a pencil, then remove the pattern and transfer paper.
Apply 3 coats of SC073 Candy Apply Red to the main body, claws, the large areas on the tail, and every other part on the smaller arms. Apply with an AB704 Round Brush.
Apply 3 coats of SC075 Orange-A-Peel on the top of the head, antennae, and every other part of the lobster that does not have SC073 Candy Apply Red.
Outline the SC073 Candy Apple Red areas with SG410 Bright Blue Designer Liner. Add dots of SG410 Bright Blue Designer Liner on top of the SC073 Candy Apply Red.
Outline the SC075 Orange-A-Peel areas with SG407 Yellow Designer Liner. Add dots of SG407 Yellow Designer Liner on top of the SC075 Orange A Peel.
With a pencil draw a scalloped edge around the border of the platter. Apply 3 coats of SC091 Seabreeze to the scalloped edge and to the back of the platter.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 3 coats of SC016 Cotton Tail to the eyeballs, apply with an AB704 Round Brush. Once dry take the back of the brush and dip it into SC016 Tuxedo to create round dots for the middle of the eyes. Apply one coat.
Apply 3 coats of SC006 Sunkissed to the inside of the mouth and the lips. Apply with an CB106 Script Liner.
Apply 3 coats of CG1007 Blueberry Bubblegum to the body and bottom of the monster. Apply with a CB106 Script Liner
Fire to cone 06.
Yellow Monster:
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 3 coats of SC016 Cotton Tail to the eyeballs, apply with an AB704 Round Brush. Once dry take the back of the brush and dip it into SC016 Tuxedo to create round dots for the middle of the eyes. Apply one coat.
Apply 3 coats of SC023 Jack O Lantern to the inside of the mouth and the lips. Apply with an CB106 Script Liner.
Apply 3 coats of CG1000 Mardi Gras to the body and bottom of the monster. Apply with a CB106 Script Liner
Fire to cone 06.
Green Monster:
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 3 coats of SC016 Cotton Tail to the eyeballs, apply with an AB704 Round Brush. Once dry take the back of the brush and dip it into SC016 Tuxedo to create round dots for the middle of the eyes. Apply one coat.
Apply 3 coats of SC098 Slime Time to the inside of the mouth and the lips. Apply with an CB106 Script Liner.
Apply 2 coats of CG1007 Blueberry Bubblegum to the body and bottom of the monster. Apply with a CB106 Script Liner.
Apply 2 coats of CG1000 Mardi Gras over the CG1007 Blueberry Bubblegum. Apply with a CB106 Script Liner
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust. Do not oversaturate the bisque with water.
With a #4 Soft Fan Brush (RB144) apply 2 coats of SW173 Amber Quartz to the bottom ½ of the vase.
Apply 2 coats of SW169 Frosted Lemon to the top ½ and entire inside of the vase using a #4 Fan Brush, overlapping the Amber Quartz about ½”.
With a #4 Soft Fan brush, apply 2 coats SW401 Light Flux to the middle of the vase, starting 1” down from the top overlapping the Amber Quartz about 2”.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Remember to remove the bank stopper before glazing and firing.
Apply 3 coats of SC043 Lettuce Alone on the sides, back, top, and in between the laces. Avoid glazing the rainbow in the back, the laces, very front of the skate, and bottom rim. Apply with an AB704 Round Brush and a CB106 Script Liner.
With a pencil draw flower all over the SC043 Lettuce Alone.
Apply 3 coats of SC086 Old Lace to the flower pedals and the bottom rim, apply with an AB704 Round Bruch.
Then apply one coats of SC042 Butter Me Up to add dots in the center of each flower. Apply with the back of your brush.
With a pencil draw on some squiggly lines all over and in between the flower.
Apply one coat of SG410 Bright Blue Designer Liner over top of the squiggly lines.
Apply 3 coats of CG1008 Blue Guppy to the rainbow in the back, the laces, and the front of the skate. Apply with a CB106 Script Liner.
Apply 3 coats of CG1016 Asteroid to the entire bottom of the skate, avoiding the wheels. Apply with a CB106 Script Liner.
Apply 3 coats of SC042 Butter Me Up the stars on the wheels. Then apply SC043 Lettuce Me Alone to the rim of the wheels. Apply with a AB704 Round Brush.
Apply 3 coats of S2718 Cosmic Black to the rest of the wheels. Apply with a CB106 Script Liner.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using RB144 #4 Soft Fan with FN001 White, apply 3 coats to the body of the penguin. Avoid the feet and beak. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using RB106 #6 Script Liner with SC075 Orange-A-Peel, apply 2 coats to the beak and feet. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using RB106 #6 Script Liner with SC015 Tuxedo, apply a dot to each eye.
Using RB144 #4 Soft Fan with SG201 Black Cobblestone, apply 1 coat to the back and wings of the penguin. Wait until the glaze loses its shine, then apply a second coat. Repeat for a third coat. It’s important not to wait until the glaze is bone dry or it could flake off.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply one coat of SC013 Graple to a hand using a round sponge on a stick, while the hand is still wet apply the hand to the plate.
Apply 2 coats of FN209 Floral Pink to the bottom and top of the entire plate, apply with a RB144 Soft Fan. Once the shine is gone but not bone dry take a sponge and wipe the glaze away from the top of the sunflower.
Apply 2 to 3 coats of SC024 Dandelion to the pedals of the sunflower, avoid glazing the creases and middle of the sunflower. Apply with a CB106 Script Liner.
Apply 2 coats of dots in the middle of the flower using SC041 Brown Cow.
With a pencil write the phase “You are my sunshine” in bubble letters around the rim. Apply one coat using a SG406 Brown Designer Liner to fill in the bubble letters.
Apply one coat of S2101 over the SG406 Brown Designer Liner with a RB144 Soft Fan.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 3 coats of FN001 White to the top and bottom of the plate. Apply with an RB144 Soft Fan.
With a pencil draw on some round lemons.
Apply 2 coats of SC055 Yella Bout It to every lemon. Apply with an RB106 Script Liner.
Wet the glaze is still wet, lay down the lace over the lemons. Pat the lace down to make sure it won’t lift.
Apply 1-2 coats of SC042 Butter Me Up over the lemons with the lace.
Wait to lift the lace once the shine is gone from the glaze.
With a pencil draw on some leaf vines that go in between and around the lemons.
Apply 2 coats of SC029 Blue Grass to the stims of the leaf vines. Apply with an AB704 Round Brush.
Apply 1 coats of SC029 Blue Grass and SC043 Lettuce Alone to every other leaf. RB106 Script Liner.
Apply 1 coat of SC029 Blue and SC043 Lettuce Alone by dipping the brush into both glazes at the same time to get a multicolored leaf. RB106 Script Liner.
Ramondly apply 1 coat of dots all over the plate using SC029 Blue Grass, SC042 Butter Me Up, and SC043 Lettuce Alone. Apply with an AB704 Round Brush.
Begin by creating the crumbles. These will need to dry overnight. Pour these 5 colors from the jar onto a plastic or paper plate and allow to dry into hardened crumbles: SC070 pink-a-dot, SC006 Sunkissed, SC075 Orange-A-Peel, SC098 Slime time, SC011 Blue Yonder.
Wipe down the bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Crush up the dried color so it resembles colorful aquarium rocks.
Prepare the bubble solution with roughly 1 part soap, 1 part color, 2 parts water.
Using a straw, blow bubbles into the solution and allow the bubbles to spill over onto the plate. Use the straw to manipulate the bubbles into specific positions if needed. Allow the bubbles to pop naturally.
Apply 2 coats of SC020 Cashew Later to the bottom ¼ of the plate.
While the 2nd coat is still wet, sprinkle in the dry chips of color.
Using the fan brush and script liner brush, create aquarium plants off to one side of the plate. Use SC098 Slime time, or pick a different color to mimic the look of vibrant plastic plant décor.
Design a fish of your choice off to the side of the plants.
Outline the plants, fish, and gravel section in SC015 Tuxedo with the mini liner brush.
Apply a brushing clear glaze to the face and back of the plate, avoiding the gravel section.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 3 coats of FN304 Black Velvet Mette to the top and bottom of the plate. Apply with a RB144 Soft Fan.
With a pencil draw on 4 circles, 2 full circles and 2 half circles.
For the 2 lager circles take a sponge and apply SC024 Dandelion to one side. Apply 2 coats.
Right next the SC024 Dandelion apply 2 coats SC087 Ruby Slippers, then take your sponge and dip half of the sponge in SC024 Dandelion and the other half on SC087 Ruby Slippers. Apply the sponge in the middle of both glazes to blend the two glazes.
Repeat steps A and B with SC087 Ruby Slippers, then SC031 The Blues, and last SC045 My Blue Heaven.
For the 2 small planets repeat the same process as the lager planets but apply SC045 My Blue Heave first then SC105 Tic Tac Turquoise, and last SC031 The Blues.
With a pencil draw curving lines away from then over the planets to make the planets look like they have rings.
Apply SG408 Orange Designer Liner over the lines. Apply one coat.
Only apply S2101 over the SG408 Orange Designer Liner.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 3 coats of FN001 White to the top and bottom of the plate. Apply with a RB144 Soft Fan.
Put down the ruff side of transfer paper in the middle of the plate then apply the lemon pattern over top.
Traces over the lemons and leaf vines with a pencil.
Remove the transfer paper and the pattern once you have finished tracing.
Apply 3 coats of SC042 Butter Me Up to the entire large uncut lemon, the rim of the cut opened round lemon and to one side of the half lemon. Apply with an A704 Round Brush.
Apply 2 coats of SC037 Ivory Tower to the middle of both the half and cut open round lemon. Apply with an AB704 Round Brush.
Apply 2 coats of SC055 Yella Bout It to the round triangle in both the cut open round lemon and the half lemon. Apply with an AB704 Round Brush.
Outline each lemon with SG402 White Designer, one coat.
Apply 3 coats of SC029 to the stims and some of the leaves. Apply with an AB704 Round Brush.
Apply 3 coats of SC043 Lettuce Alone to the leaves that do not have SC029 Blue Grass on them. Apply with an AB704 Round Brush.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the RB144 #4 Soft Fan with FN001 White, apply 1 coat to the portion of the plate where you will be placing the capybara. Allow to dry.
Cut out the capybara from the pattern. Wet the back with a damp sponge. Place onto the plate. Sponge around the edges to make sure they stay down. Using the Soft Fan with FN001, apply 1 coat over the edges of the capybara. This will help to make sure it doesn’t lift as the paper dries.
Use the pencil to trace the details on the capybara head. This will leave pattern lines in the glaze for later.
Using the RB144 #4 Soft Fan with SP286 Speckled Old Lace, apply 2 coats over the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
After glaze is dry, use MC002 12mm Low Tack Masking Tape to tape off stripes on the front of the plate.
Using the Soft Fan with SP2105 Speckled Tic-Tac-Turquoise, apply 2 coats to every other stripe. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Before the glaze is bone-dry, remove the tape and pattern.
Place the “Be Cappy!” lettering above the capybara. Trace lightly with a pencil to make pattern lines in the glaze.
Using the RB110 10/0 Detail Liner with SC15 Tuxedo, outline the capybara, details on the face, and lettering.
Using the RB144 #4 Soft Fan with SP2105 Speckled Tic-Tac-Turquoise, apply 2 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Dip plate into NTCLR Clear One dipping glaze.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Form
MB102 Coupe Dinner Plate or MB1116 Casualware Dinner Plate
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the soft fan, apply 3 coats of SC086 Old Lace to the front and edges of the tray.
Mix a half ounce of SC003 Wine About It with a pinch of AC310 silkscreen Medium using a palette knife. Set aside to allow the mixture to thicken.
Using your finger, apply the silkscreen medium mixture from step 3 to the long flourish from the Bellfleur silkscreen with light pressure in a circular motion on the lower left corner of the tray. Remove the screen immediately.
Write or trace the names and dates for your project. Using the detail liner, apply 2 coats of SC029 Blue Grass over the text. Or use a detail writer bottle.
Using the detail liner, fill in the flowers with 1 coat of SC029 Blue Grass. Fill in the leaves with 1 coat of SC009. Add a touch of SC029 Blue Grass to some leaves if desired.
Dip the sponge dotter into SC029 Blue Grass and press onto the edge of the tray to create a scalloped border. Go over each dot a second time if you want slightly darker color. Be sure to dab the sponge dotter onto a plate or palette before applying onto the tray to allow for a thinner application.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust. Do not oversaturate the bisque with water.
With a #4 Soft Fan Brush (RB144) apply 2 coats of SW166 Norse Blue to the inside of the feeder
With a #8 Round Brush, apply 1 heavy coat of SW401 Light Flux over the Norse Blue in swirls.
Apply 2 coats of SW173 Amber Quartz to the bottom ½ of the outside and inside of the feeder. Do not put Amber Quartz over the Norse Blue.
With a #4 Soft Fan brush, apply 2 coats SW146 Aurora Green to the inside and outside of the top ½ of the feeder, overlapping the Amber Quartz about ½ inch.
Apply 1 coat of SW401 Light Flux to the top ½ of the feeder overlapping SW146 Aurora Green about 1”.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour a small amount of each EZ color into 2oz cups then add some water (about 1:2 ratio of color to water).
Tip: EZ Stroke colror goes a long way! You don’t need a lot for great pigment.
Use your script liner brush to mix the colors with the water.
Starting with the water, use a script liner to pickup Light Blue. Using dabbing or brushing motions, apply the Light blue about 2-3 inches up the plate.
Pick up Peacock Green and apply in the same motion overlapping the Light Blue a little and about 2 inches above.
Pick up Dutch Blue and apply in the same motion overlapping Peacock Green a little and about 2 inches above (this should end about ½ way up the plate).
Go over each blue until you’ve reached our desired shading and overlapping.
Using a Script Liner, pick up Neon Yellow. Make an arch to outline the sun and fill in toward the ocean. Overlap the blue a little to create the sun reflection.
Load your brush with Lilac and use dabbing or brushing motions to apply the color on either side of the sun. Stop about 1 inch up from the ocean.
Repeat with Rose about another inch above and overlapping the Lilac.
Repeat above Rose with Creamsicle.
Finally, add more Lilac above and overlapping the Creamsicle.
Add color to each section until you have reached your desired shading.
Using a Detail Liner, load your brush with Cobalt Jet Black. Outline your sun and add lines for the sun rays. Add wave lines to the ocean.
Once dry, dip into clear glaze, stilt, and fire to cone 06.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a RB144 Soft Fan apply 3 coats of EL133 Autumn to the inside and bottom of the boot.
Using an AB704 Round Brush apply 3 coats of EL133 Autumn to the top and bottom rim and all the stitching on the boot. Avoid the base of the boot.
Apply two coats of EL121 Copper Aventurine to the entire base of the boot, once dry apply 2 coats of EL137 Black Aventurine over EL121 Copper Aventurine. Apply with an AB704 Round in the small areas and RB144 Soft Fan for the lager areas.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place the Carbon Clay paper smooth side down over the plate then apply the pattern of the carrot over the Clay Carbon Paper. Trace the image with a pen multiple times to cover the plate. Then remove the pattern and Clay Carbon Paper.
Apply 2-3 coats of EL128 Wheat to the background of the plate avoiding the carrots. Apply with a RB106 Script Liner.
Outline the bottom half of the carrot with 3 coats of EL132 Rust Red. Apply with a RB704 Round Brush.
Fill in the bottom half of the carrot with 3 coats of EL127 Rose Granite. Apply with a RB704 Round Brush.
Outline the leaves of the carrot with 3 coats of EL130 Sea Green. Apply with a RB704 Round Brush.
Fill in the leaves of the carrot with 3 coats of EL131 Turtle Shell. Apply with a RB704 Round Brush.
Apply 3 coats of EL127 Wheat to the back of the plate. Apply with a CB604 Soft Fan.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a RB144 Soft Fan apply 3 coats of EL133 Autumn to the inside and bottom of the boot.
Using an AB704 Round Brush apply 3 coats of EL133 Autumn to the top and bottom rim and all the stitching on the boot. Avoid the base of the boot.
Apply two coats of EL121 Copper Aventurine to the entire base of the boot, once dry apply 2 coats of EL137 Black Aventurine over EL121 Copper Aventurine. Apply with an AB704 Round in the small areas and RB144 Soft Fan for the lager areas.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Shake the SG101 Rapid Roll White glaze. Pour enough glaze inside the bottom of the Cup Cake Cookie Jar and roll around coating the inside surface. When all areas are covered, drain any remaining glaze out of the piece, use a small container to collect any excess glaze. Do not reuse this glaze. Leave the piece upside down till all glaze has finished draining out and there is no shine to the glaze.
Repeat the step above for the lid of the Cup Cake Cookie Jar.
With a damp Sponge, wipe any drips of the Rapid Roll glaze on the outside of the piece. Allow to dry!
Using a CB 604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 – 3 coats of FN001 White Foundations glaze to the outside of the bottom of the Cookie Jar and to the lower half of the outside of the top. Allow to dry!
Using the MC002 ½” Low Tack Masking Tape, tape every other section of the bottom of the jar. Refer to photo for placement.
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC074 Hot Tamale to ever other area that is not taped and to the cherry on the top. When the SC074 Hot Tamale losses it’s shine, remove the masking tape to prevent the color from chipping. Allow to dry!
Mix all the crystals from the bottom of each Snow Gem and shake well.
In a small container, place 2 teaspoons of each Snow Gem. Mix well. Then place on a paper plate or tile.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2-3 coats of this mixed Snow Gems to the upper section of the Cup Cake Jar Lid. Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.
Form
DB29050 Cup Cake Cookie Jar
Colors
SC074 Hot Tamale
SG303 Citrus Snow Gem
SG304 Berry Snow Gem
SG305 Spearmint Snow Gem
SG101 Rapid Roll White
FN001 White
Decorating Accessories
CB106 #6 Script Liner
CB604 #4 Soft Fan
Miscellaneous Accessories
Synthetic Sponge
Pencil
Palette Knife
Water Bowl
Paper Towels
Dessert Paper Plates or Glazed tile for a Palette
MC002 ½” Low Tack Masking Tape
Plastic Teaspoon
Small Container
Low-Fire|Earthenware Bisque|Boxes, Banks & Stuff|Home Décor|Table Top
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC086 Old Lace to one of the Fluffy’s head, tail and feet and 3 coats of SC060 Silver Lining to the other Fluffy. Allow to dry!
Stir and shake the SG302 Snowfall well.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2-3 coats of SG302 Snowfall to each of the Fluffy bodies. Allow to dry!
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner, detail the eyes with SC016 Cotton Tail, SC015 Tuxedo and SC011 Blue Yonder. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Shake the SG101 Rapid Roll White glaze. Pour enough glaze inside the bottom of the Cup Cake Cookie Jar and roll around coating the inside surface. When all areas are covered, drain any remaining glaze out of the piece, use a small container to collect any excess glaze. Do not reuse this glaze. Leave the piece upside down till all glaze has finished draining out and there is no shine to the glaze.
Repeat the step above for the lid of the Cup Cake Cookie Jar.
With a damp Sponge, wipe any drips of the Rapid Roll glaze on the outside of the piece. Allow to dry!
Using a CB 604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN005 Pink Foundations glaze to the outside of the bottom of the Cookie Jar. Allow to dry!
Using the MC002 ½” Low Tack Masking Tape, tape every other section of the bottom of the jar. Refer to photo for placement.
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of FN048 Bright Pink to ever other area that is not taped. When the FN048 Bright Pink losses it’s shine, remove the masking tape to prevent the color from chipping. Allow to dry!
Stir and shake the SG302 Snowfall well.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2-3 coats of SG302 Snowfall to the top of the cookie jar and to the frosting area of the bottom of the cookie jar.
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC074 Hot Tamale to the cherry on the top.
Place a small puddle of each of the Stroke & Coat colors on a plate or tile.
Using a 5/8” Sponge on a Stick, apply 2 coats of each color to the Snowfall area leaving space between each color to make it look like candy. Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.
Form
DB29050 Cup Cake Cookie Jar
Colors
FN005 Pink
FN048 Bright Pink
SC006 Sunkissed
SC011 Blue Yonder
SC026 Green Thumb
SC034 Down to Earth
SC074 Hot Tamale
SC075 Orange-A-Peel
SG101 Rapid Roll White
SG302 Snowfall
Decorating Accessories
CB106 #6 Script Liner
CB604 #4 Soft Fan
Miscellaneous Accessories
Synthetic Sponge
Pencil
Palette Knife
Water Bowl
Paper Towels
Desert Paper Plates or Glazed tile for a Palette
MC002 ½” Low Tack Masking Tape
5/8” Sponge on a Stick
Low-Fire|Earthenware Bisque|Boxes, Banks & Stuff|Home Décor|Table Top
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Draw pencil popsicle shapes on your plate. They can overlap. Don’t forget to add your popsicle stick!
Pour a small amount of each EZ color into 2oz cups then add some water (about 1:2 ratio of color to water).
Tip: EZ Stroke colror goes a long way! You don’t need a lot for great pigment.
Use your script liner brush to mix the colors with the water.
Choose one popsicle and use your Script Liner brush to apply Creamsicle to the popsicle with brushstrokes. Once dry add more color to some of the edges of the popsicle to create shading.
Plop your brush loaded with color to the edge of the popsicle to create the color bursts
Repeat steps 5 and 6 with Poppy Orange and Blue Turquoise in the other popsicle shapes.
Using a Script Liner brush, apply Medium Mahogany to the popsicle sticks. Only 1 coat is needed or add a second coat to one of the edges to create shading.
Go back in to each popsicle color individually and load your brush. Pick up your plate and tap your brush handle against the edge to create a splatter across the plate. On the sample, the brush was tapped against the side with the matching popsicle color (i.e: if the brush is loaded with Creamsicle, tap on the edge closest to the Creamsicle popsicle).
Using your Detail Liner, pick up some of the Cobalt Jet Black to outline the popsicle shape including the stick.
Load your Script Liner with Chartreuse and run your brush along the edge of the plate. It’s okay if the color drips down. You can also scrape your brush against the edge to create drips.
Once dry, dip into clear glaze, stilt, and fire to cone 06.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Stir and shake the EL131 Turtle Shell well.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2-3 coats of EL131 Turtle Shell to the tree and the base. Allow to dry between each coat! Make sure not to fill in the holes for the lights so they will fit.
Stir and shake the SG302 Snowfall well.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2-3 coats of SG302 Snowfall to the tips of the branches on the tree. Allow to dry between each coat!
Make sure to clean out the holes in the tree from any glaze that has gone in them.
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06/05.
Additional Adaptations & Tips if needed.
Make sure to shake all products to mix well.
The EL131 Turtle Shel lwill have more brown breaking in the glaze finish with only 2 coats. With 3 coats there will be more of the green showing.
SG302 Snowfall can be applied with sponge or palette knife.
SG302 Snowfall will not turn blue when applied over the EL131 Turtle Shell.
Begin by wiping down the bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Transfer the pattern onto the plate using the carbon Transfer paper and a pen.
Fill a designer bottle for each of the following colors: SC023 Jack-O-Lantern, SC088 Tu-Tu-Tango, SC010 Teal Next Time, SC015 Tuxedo, SC016 Cotton Tail, SC095 Pinkie Swear, SC098 Slime Time.
Apply three coats of SP286 Speckled Old Lace around the moth with the soft fan brush.
Apply three coats of SC023 Jack-O-Lantern to the top half of the moth wings, and three coats of SC015 Tuxedo to the bottom half of the wings.
Apply three coats of SC088 Tu-Tu-Tango to the body of the moth.
Apply two coats of SC015 Tuxedo to the back of the plate.
Use the scrip liner brush to create leaves as the moth antenna and as decoration along the bottom.
Use the filled designer bottles to do single coat line work to create florals and patterns on and around the moth.
Begin by wiping down the bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Transfer the pattern onto the plate using the carbon Transfer paper and a pen
Fill a designer bottle for each of the following colors: SC090 Elephant Ears, SC037 Ivory Tower, SC102 Just Peachy, SC089 Cutie Pie Coral
In small cups, water down SC101 Spruce it up, SC037 Ivory Tower, SC102 Just Peachy, SC089 Cutie Pie Coral roughly 50/50 water/glaze.
Create a “Base” on each section of the image with the watered down S&C using the script liner brush. 1 coat each. Fill in the rest of the background and back of the plate with SC101 Spruce It Up.
Using the detail bottles, create stitch marks over the sections of watered down color using the same solid Stroke & Coat color. Use a variety of traditional stitch mark designs.
Outline the individual designs with “stitches” from the detail bottle of SC090 Elephant Ears.
Bring a little inspiration from the natural world into your art room! Students create clay pieces inspired by the textures, patterns, and shapes found in nature. The finished work can stand alone, come together as a collaborative installation, become a wall display, or even find a home outdoors as part of a larger nature-inspired space.
Great For
Creating a beautiful collaborative display.
Exploring texture, pattern, and observation skills.
Connecting art, science, and natural world.
Simple Directions
Gather inspiration from leaves, flowers, shells, bark, fish scales, or other natural forms.
Create clay pieces and add lots of texture and surface interest.
Glaze and display individually or combine the work into a larger nature-inspired installation.
Expandable Ideas
Grades K-12: Can range from simple leaf impressions to sophisticated monochromatic installations with layered textures and abstract composition.
Mayco Glaze Suggestions
Elements for earth blends and organic color movement.
Stroke & Coat for bright accents and layered details.
Jungle Gems for rich texture and crystal effects inspired by the natural world.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a pencil to trace the pattern onto the tray with AC230 Clay Carbon Paper. Cut the Tracing Paper into approximate 3” squares. Trace each individual strawberry onto one piece of Tracing Paper. Do not trace the foliage on the strawberries. Mark the squares with a number and correspond that number to the strawberry in the pattern. Use Scissors to cut out each individual strawberry as that will become your stencil.
On a tile put out EZ018 Chartreuse, EZ026 Yellow Orange, EZ057 Coral Red and EZ075 Passion Red.
Use a damp but not wet Silk Decorating Sponge to load one edge with EZ057 Coral Red. Sponge in the larger strawberries using your stencils marked according to your pattern. Tip the sponge edge with EZ075 Passion Red and sponge the darker color around the edge of the stencil to make the contour of the strawberry. On one of the strawberries, you can sponge a little bit of EZ026 Yellow Orange and or EZ018 Chartreuse to create a highlight in the center. For the smallest strawberry you can be light on the sponging of the colors. Make one lower part greener and redder along the top edge. You can leave a small portion plain.
Thin some EZ055 Brick and EZ010 French Brown on the tile. Start with the EZ055 Brick and tip a damp sponge edge into the color. Pounce the sponge on a tile to blend the color into the sponge. Sponge along the entire edge of the plate keeping the color in the sponge along the rim of the plate. The color should be about 1” in width and fade out towards the center of the plate. Tip the sponge edge in EZ010 French Brown and sponge over the Brick color along the upper part of the rim. Color should appear darkest along the rim and becoming umbrae to nothing.
On a tile mix EZ028 Leaf Green with equal parts of EZ013 White. Add a drop or two of water to thin. Use a CB404 #4 Pointed Round to block in the leaves in the pattern with 1-2 coats. Use AB704 #3 Round loaded with EZ028 Leaf Green to paint in the center and side veins in the leaves. Paint in the strawberry tops with the color. Outline the leaves and strawberry tops with
EZ033 Ivy Green using CB110 #10/0 Liner. Paint in the stems and tendrils in the pattern with EZ033 Ivy Green.
Load a CB404 #4 Pointed Round with water and tip the brush with thinned EZ024 Royal Blue Green and shade around the flower petals. Use the same method to shade around various leaves and strawberries where shadows would be between leave and berries.
Fill in the centers of the flowers with 2 coats of EZ026 Yellow Orange using AB704 Round. Add a bit of EZ0330 Ivy Green to one side of the center over the EZ026 Yellow Orange.
Use CB404 #4 Pointed Round loaded with thinned EZ055 Brick and shade around the center of the flower.
Use FD258 Pure White French Dimensions to add highlights to the petals on the flowers. Keep this color bead fine but high.
Use CB110 #10/0 Liner loaded with EZ010 French Brown to paint in the stamens around the flower center.
Use SG407 Yellow Designer Liner to add some seeds to the strawberries. Keep them mostly to one side. Using CB110 #10/0 Liner to add a dot of EZ010 French Brown to the tops of each yellow seed.
Apply 2-3 coats of SC041 Brown Cow to the back of the plate using CB604 #4 Soft Fan. Let dry.
Apply 2-3 coats of FN239 Spiced Cream to the entire plate. Let dry.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of FN001 White to the top side of the plate. Allow to dry!
Print 2 copies of the pattern. Place both copies on top of each other and cut out around the outside edge of the snowman pattern.
Position one of the patterns on the plate. Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, load the brush with water then lift half of the pattern then apply the water to the plate then lay the pattern down. Repeat with the other side of the bunny pattern. Using a piece of paper towel, lay the paper towel over the bunny pattern and press on the paper towel. This will help absorb any extra water and secure the pattern to the plate. There should be no edges of the patten sticking up, if so re-wet and press with the paper towel to secure.
Condition a silk sponge by wetting it in water then squeeze out the water then roll in between a paper towel to remove any remaining water.
Starting at the bottom third of the palate, sponge SC065 Peri-Twinkle then pick up some of the SC030 Blue Dawn and sponge the middle third of the plate blending into the previous color. Finally, pick up some of the SC031 The Blues and sponge the top third of the plate blending into the SC030 Blue Dawn.
Carefully remove the pattern from the plate before the glaze dries. Allow the plate to dry!
Place the other cut out pattern in position, slide a sheet of AC230 Clay Carbon paper under the pattern and trace the details of the pattern.
Using a CB308 #8 Flat Shader, shade the snowmans body with SC060 Silver Lining.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, Apply 3 coats of SC101 Spruce It Up to the snowman’s coat.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 3 coats of SC100 Making Me Blush to the gloves and the scarf. Allow to dry!
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round and a CB-202 #2 Detail, apply 3 coats each of SC103 Lavender to the hat.
Using a CB202 #2 Detail, apply 2 coats of SC097 Cant-elope to the nose.
Using a CB308 #8 Flat Shader, shade the coat with SC028 Blue Isle. Shade the Scarf and Gloves with SC095 Pinkie Swear. Shade the hat with SC033 Fruit Of The Vine.
Stipple the Cheeks and paint the tongue with SC002 Mellon-choly.
Punch out several snowflakes with the snowflake paper punch. Position the Snowflakes on the plate and stick with water. Press with a paper towel to absorb any excess water.
Using a conditioned silk sponge, sponge the snowflakes with a couple of coats of SC016 Cotton Tail.
Using a CB110 #10/0 Liner outline and detail the pattern with EZ012 Cobalt Jet Black.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SP231 Speckled The Blues to the back of the plate. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of S2101 Crystal Clear Brushing glaze to the top side of the plate, Be careful not to smear the EZ012 Cobalt Jet Black. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats EL133 Autumn to the Mushroom cap and stem. Allow to dry!
Pour some PC602 White Cascade onto a paper plate or glazed tile (palette).
Using the 1 ¼” Sponge-on-a-Stick, apply dots, 2 coats of PC602 White Cascade to the mushroom cap starting around the bottom edge working your way to the top. Apply ½” dots in between the previous dots. Allow to dry between coats!
Using the 1 ¼” Sponge-on-a-Stick, apply dots, 2 coats of PC602 White Cascade to the mushroom stem coming about three quarters of the way down.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of EL101 Oyster Shell to the top side of the mushroom cap over the PC602 White Cascade also over the PC602 White Cascade on the stem of the mushroom, leaving the lower section just the EL133 Autumn. Do not apply to the underside of the cap. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust. Do not oversaturate the bisque with water.
With a pencil, lightly draw flowers onto bisque
Using a #4 Liner Brush (RB104) underglaze the flowers using UG67 Ivory, UG222 Soft Yellow and UG203 Squash Yellow, outline the flowers with UG90 Green Mist.
With a #4 Soft Fan Brush (RB-144) apply 3 coats of UG68 Apple Green to entire cactus, avoiding the flowers.
With UG210 Forest Green, glaze vertical lines down the cactus to separate the segments using the #4 Liner Brush (RB104)
Glaze the base of the cactus with UG90 Sand and UG232 Olive using a #4 Soft Fan Brush (RB-144)
Bisque Cactus to cone 04
Mix equal amounts of SW447 Blue Bead and SW441 Yellow Bead in a container to create a new “green” bead color.
With a #4 Soft Fan Brush (RB-144) apply 4-5 coats of the green bead to the entire cactus, alternating the direction of each coat.
Using a #4 Liner Brush (RB104) apply SW440 White Bead, SW443 Red Bead and SW441 Yellow Bead to the flowers.
Additional Adaptations & Tips
Wipe the excess glaze off the bottom of the piece.
Begin by wiping down the bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Using a soft fan brush, apply three coats of SP286 Speckled Old Lace to the outside of the entire vase.
Apply two coats of SP2105 Speckled Tic-Tac-Turquoise in a band around the rim. Create four sections around the vase with four equally spaced vertical lines.
Split each large section in half again with a thin line of SP2105 Speckled Tic-Tac-Turquoise using the 10/0 Liner brush.
When the shine is gone, use a toothpick to lightly sgraffito X designs into the large vertical lines.
Create three leaves in each section using two coats of SP289 Speckled Cutie Pie Coral. Begin each leaf by creating a small vertical line stem with the 10/0 liner brush. Add leaf sections to each side of the stem using three dots created with the tip of the script liner brush.
Apply three coats of SP289 Speckled Cutie Pie Coral to the inside of the vase.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the pencil to mark off 5 even sections on the rim of the tumbler. There should be 5 pencil marks. Take MC001 Low Tack Masking Tape and place over one of the marks and extend down to the bottom of thetumbler. Repeat 4 more times, one over each mark.
Cut out the flower patterns.
Using the Soft Fan with FN001 White, apply 1 coat to the center of each of the 5 sections. Large enough to fit a flower.
Take a flower and dip the back in water. Place in the center of one of the 5 sections. Press the edges with a damp sponge. This will help keep the edges down. Using the Soft Fan with FN001 White, apply 1 coat over the edges of the flower. Repeat for the other 4 flowers.
Squeeze out around 1 TBS of SP211 Speckled Blue Yonder and SP245 Speckled My Blue Heaven onto the palette. Squeeze out ½ TBS of SP211 Speckled Blue Yonder and ½ TBS of SP245 Speckled My Blue Heaven onto the same spot on the palette. Mix to create a third color.
Using the Soft Fan with SP211 Speckled Blue Yonder, apply 2 coats to 1stand 4thsection. Apply it over the flowers. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SP245 Speckled My Blue Heaven, apply 2 coats to 3rd section. Apply it over the flowers. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with your mixed color, apply 2 coats2nd and 5thsection. Apply it over the flowers. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
After the shine has left the glaze, remove the flowers and tape.
Using the Script Liner with SP211 Speckled Blue Yonder, SP245 Speckled My Blue Heaven, and the mixed color, apply a circle of glaze to the center of each flower. Use a different color than flower color. Repeat for a second coat.
Allow glaze to dry.
Using the Soft Fan with FN211 Sheer Blue, apply 3 coatsthe entire vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin by wiping down the bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Using the fan brush, apply three coats of SC091 Seabreeze to the whole plate
Mix up the bubble solution with water, SC031 The Blues, and a few drops of dish soap.
Blow bubbles into the cup with the straw and allow them overflow the cup onto the face of the plate. Allow the bubbles to dry.
Using the Script Liner brush, create a small crab off to the side with three coats of SC088 TuTu Tango.
In the 2oz cup, slightly water down SC076 Hot Tamale
Put a layer of the watered down S&C mixture over the crab and immediately place drops and lines of rubbing alcohol over the top with the detail liner brush.
Using the Script Liner brush, apply dark blue Waves across the plate with SC076 Cara-bein Blue.
Apply the pattern directly to the bisque with the clay carbon transfer paper, pattern, and a pen.
Frankie: Apply three coats of SC054 Vanilla Dip to the background of his square. Apply three coats of SC027 Sour apple to his face. Three coats of SC075 Orange-a-Peel to his shirt and bolts. Apply three coats of SC015 to his jacket and hair, and use a detail liner brush to outline with the same color.
Cat: Apply three coats of SP275 Speckled Orange-a-Peel to the background. Three coats of SC015 Tuxedo to the body. Three coats of SC027 Sour Apple to the eyes and bow. Three coats of SC054 to the inner ears. Outline with SC015 and a detail liner brush. Use SC054 Vanilla Dip to create the mouth and whisker lines.
Ghost: Apply three coats of SC015 Tuxedo to the background of the square. Apply three coats of SC054 Vanilla Dip to the body, three coats of SC027 Sour Apple to the hat, SC075 Orange-a-Peel to the hatband. Use the back of a brush to create small dots of color to make the flower in the hat. Use a detail liner brush and SC015 Tuxedo to create the outline, glasses, and mouth.
Frame the outside of the three boxes with three coats of SP227 Speckled Sour Apple.
Apply three coats of SP254 Speckled Vanilla Dip to the rest of the tray. Once that has dried, apply lines over the top with three coats of SC015 Tuxedo using the script liner brush.
Coat the back of the tray in three coats of SP275 Speckled Orange-a-Peel.
Allow to dry, stilt, and fire to cone 06.
Additional Adaptations & Tips
Use tape to create perfectly straight lines if desired.
Begin by wiping down the bisque with a damp sponge.
Apply three coats of SC016 Cotton Tail to the face of the tray and allow to dry.
Transfer the pattern using clay carbon transfer paper and a pen. If the glaze is still a little damp, place the pattern directly on top of the glaze without carbon paper and lightly trace pattern with a pen. The lines from the pressure will be left over in the glaze.
Using the script liner brush, apply a single coat of SC024 Dandelion to two or three of the lemons. Once the shine has disappeared, go in with the toothpick and scratch the line work on the lemons. Repeat this process until all lemons are finished.
Using the script liner brush, apply one coat of SC012 Moody blue to one fish. When the glaze has lost it’s shine, take the toothpick and scratch in the design. Repeat this step until all fish are finished.
Using the dotter sponge, apply single coat half dots of SC012 Moody Blue around the rim of the tray.
Flip the tray over when the glazes are dry and apply three coats of SC012 Moody Blue to the back of the tray using the fan brush.
Allow tray to dry, stilt, and fire to cone 06.
Additional Adaptations & Tips
For best sgraffito results, allow the base glaze to dry and fully solidify overnight before applying the top color and scratching the designs. The super dry base layer will help keep you from scratching all the way through to the bisque.
Leave the scratched up bits of glaze from the sgraffito alone until it’s fully dry and then wipe away with a soft brush.
Using a damp sponge, wipe down the bisque piece to remove any dirt and dust.
With the soft fan brush, apply three coats of FN009 Black to the front and sides of the clay canvas. Allow to dry.
Using the bottle of FD258 Pure White and the skeleton pattern as a reference sheet, randomly draw full skeleton bodies around the canvas with one coat of French Dimensions. Add additional skulls or bones in any large open areas between the skeletons.
Using the FD253 Licorice Black, apply dots of color in all the areas between the bones and on the sides of the canvas to create texture.
Wipe down bisque with damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Using the Fan brush, apply 3 coats of SC037 Ivory Tower to the whole front of the plate.
When the shine has left the glaze, lay the pattern over the top of the center and lightly outline with a pencil using soft pressure. Remove to pattern to see the indents left from the outlining.
Fill in the top pickleball paddle with three coats of SC079 on the face of the paddle, and SC028 on the handle using the script liner brush. Using the 10/0 Liner brush, add detail linework with SC080 and SC028 to the face and SC077 to the handle.
For the paddle in the back, fill the face with three coats of SC080 and the handle with SC085 using the script liner brush. Using the 10/0 Liner brush, add accent lines with SC085 and SC079 to the face, and SC079 to the handle.
Fill in the large ball between the paddles with three coats of SC077. Using the eraser of the pencil apply thick dots of SC037 to the ball to mimic the holes.
Apply three coats of SC028 to the rim and slope of the front of the plate and allow to dry.
Using the round sponge dotter, apply three coats of the following colors in a repeating pattern around the rim: SC079, SC077, SC080, and SC085. Using the eraser of the pencil, apply thick dots of SC028 to the balls to mimic the holes. Allow to dry.
Using the Fan brush, apply Three coats of SC085 to the back of the plate and allow to dry.
Cast the molds, Clean the greenware or begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of UG051 China White to the entire Goose either greenware or bisque.Allow to dry!
Bisque fire to shelf cone 04.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of SC090 Elephant Ears to the wings and tail of the Goose.
With a damp Synthetic Sponge, wipe back the color leaving it in the crevices of the wing and tail.Allow to dry!
If needed, reinforce the SC090 Elephant Ears in the crevices if to much was wiped out.
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner and a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, Apply 2 coats of SC024 Dandelion to the feet and beak of the Goose.Allow to dry!
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner and a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, Apply 2 coats of SC097 Cant-elope to the feet and beak of the Goos. Allow to dry!
Shade the feet and beak with SC090 Elephant Ears.
Using a Pencil, sketch the apron on the Goose, create a trim edge to the apron.
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC055 Yella Bout It to the trim of the apron.Allow to dry.
Using FD258 Pure White French Dimensions, outline and add scallops and dots in the trim over the SC055 Yella Bout It.Allow to dry!
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner and a CB110 Liner, paint eyes with SC015 Tuxedo, SC011 Blue Yonder and SC16 Cotton Tail. Apply 1 coat of S2101 Crystal Clear Brushing glaze to the eyes.Allow to dry!
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner and a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of CG982 Mixed Mellon to the apron. Allow to dry!
Using A CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of EL101 Oyster Shell to the Goos body followed by 1 coat of S2101 Crystal Clear Brushing glaze over the EL101 Oyster Shell.Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.
Additional Adaptations & Tips
Make sure to shake all products to mix well.
Stir the crystal in the bottom of the Jungle Gems to loosen them up and then Shake well.
Place the Jungle Gems on a plate and using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan to apply to the piece.This helps to apply the color evenly since the crystals float to the bottom of the jar.
French Dimensions are a raised dimensional glaze product.
Applying UG051 China White to the surface of the piece will make sure that you have a white surface to work with if your body is not white.
Cast the molds, Clean the greenware or begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of UG051 China White to the entire Standing and Desk Goose either greenware or bisque.Allow to dry!
Bisque fire to shelf cone 04.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of SC090 Elephant Ears to the wings and tail of the Standing and Desk Goose.
With a damp Synthetic Sponge, wipe back the color leaving it in the crevices of the wing and tail.Allow to dry!
If needed, reinforce the SC090 Elephant Ears in the crevices if to much was wiped out.
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner and a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, Apply 2 coats of SC024 Dandelion to the feet and beak of the Standing and Desk Goose.Allow to dry!
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner and a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of SC097 Cant-elope to the feet and beak of the Standing and Desk Goose.Allow to dry!
Shade the beak and feet with SC090 Elephant Ears.
Using a Pencil, sketch the apron on the Standing Goose only, and create a trim edge to the apron.
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC008 Just Froggy to the trim of the apron.Allow to dry.
Using FD258 Pure White French Dimensions, outline and add scallops and dots in the trim over the SC008 Just Froggy.Allow to dry!
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner and a CB110 #10/0 Liner, paint eyes with SC015 Tuxedo, SC011 Blue Yonder and SC16 Cotton Tail.Allow to dry!
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner and a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of CG1015 Cloverfield to the apron. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of S2101 Crystal Clear Brushing glaze to the Standing Goose except the apron and to the Desk Goose.Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.
Additional Adaptations & Tips
Make sure to shake all products to mix well.
Stir the crystal in the bottom of the Jungle Gems to loosen them up and then Shake well.
Place the Jungle Gems on a plate and using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan to apply to the piece.This helps to apply the color evenly since the crystals float to the bottom of the jar.
French Dimensions are a raised dimensional glaze product.
Applying UG051 China White to the surface of the piece will make sure that you have a white surface to work with if your body is not white.
Begin by wiping down the bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Using the soft fan brush, apply two coats of SC027 Sour Apple to the outside and rim of bowl.
Using the soft fan brush apply SC039 Army Surplus in a wiggly line down the outside of the bowl
Allow the wiggly line to dry and go back over it with a less wide wiggly brush stroke to darken the center of the line.
Apply three coats of SP289 Speckled Cutie Pie Coral to the inside of the bowl using the softy fan brush.
Once the three coats have dried, go in with a script liner brush loaded with SC015 Tuxedo and create seeds using the tip of the brush. Apply two coats if needed.
Begin by wiping down the bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Prepare the prism technique by squirting out a line of each color directly from the bottle, side by side and touching, on the pallet in this order: SC088 TuTuTango, SC024 Dandelion, SC105 Tic Tac Turquoise, SC011 Blue Yonder, SC072 Grape Jelly, SC001 Pink-a-boo.
Using the soft fan brush, start from the bottom of the rainbow glaze pallet and pat the glaze into the brush bristles.
Apply the glaze mixture randomly in different directions across the outside and bottom of the mug.
Once the mug is covered, go back over the first layer of rainbows with a second layer of rainbows, doing your best to go in different directions from the first layer.
Apply three coats of SC015 Tuxedo to the inside and handle of the mug.
Begin by wiping down the bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
When the plate is dry, apply the pattern using AC230 Clay Carbon Paper and a pen.
Go over the carbon pattern lines with FD254 Black Licorice.
Using a Script liner brush, fill in the corresponding color pattern areas with the appropriate Jungle Gem listed on the pattern. Fill each section with a thick blob of glaze to only need a single “coat”.
Apply two coats of CG1015 Cloverfield to the binding of the book vase.
Apply three coats of CG977 Ink Spots to the pages of the book while the edge of the cover color (CG1004 Berry Tart) is still wet to create a blend where the two colors touch.
Apply two coats of S2101 Crystal Clear Brushing glaze to the inside.
Allow to dry, stilt flat on the rainbow side of the book, and fire to cone 06.
Begin by wiping down the bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Apply three coats of SC030 Blue Dawn to the sides of the tea bag container and allow to dry completely. (Bone dry)
Mix one ounce of SC076 Cara-Bein Blue with a pinch of AC310 Silkscreen Medium using a palette knife and set aside to let thicken up.
Using your finger, apply the silkscreen medium and SC076 Cara-bean Blue mixture from step 3 to the Floral Filigree silkscreen with light pressure in a circular motion on the pre-glazed sides of the container. Remove the screen immediately both times.
On the front of the container, apply the large single flower silkscreen from the Bellfleur silkscreen over the mouth of the teabag container. Do the same to the back of the container.
Once the Silkscreens have dried on the front and back, carefully apply one coat of NTBR Clear One Brushing Glaze to the front, back, bottom, and inside of the tea bag container.
Begin by wiping down the bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Mix one ounce of SC076 Cara-Bein Blue with a pinch of AC310 Silkscreen Medium using a palette knife and set aside to let thicken up.
Individually mix a half ounce of SC030 Blue Dawn, SC031 The Blues, and SC011 Blue Yonder in a 1 to 1 ratio with water.
Using the script liner brush, apply random blobs of watered down color to the front and back of the book vase and allow to dry.
Once the water color effect has dried, place the large flower bouquet from the Bellfleur silkscreen shiny side down on the cover of the vase.
Using your finger, apply the silkscreen medium and SC076 Cara-bean Blue mixture from step 2 to the silkscreen with light pressure in a circular motion. Remove the screen immediately.
Repeat step 6 to the back of the book vase.
Apply three coats of regular, unmixed SC076 Cara-bean Blue to the spine of the book with the soft fan brush.
Using the fan brush, apply three coats of SP286 Speckled Old Lace to the pages of the book vase.
Use the FD258 Pure White French Dimensions to create dots all over the spine of the book and designs on the corners of the book covers.
Apply two coats of S2101 Crystal Clear Brushing to the inside of the vase.
Begin by wiping down the bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Mix one ounce of SC076 Cara-Bein Blue with a pinch of AC310 Silkscreen Medium using a palette knife and set aside to let thicken up.
While the mixture is thickening up, apply three coats of SC076 to the inside of the canister with a soft fan brush.
Position the silkscreen shiny side down about 2/3 the way down the container.
Using your finger, apply the silkscreen medium and SC076 Cara-bean Blue mixture from step 2 to the silkscreen with light pressure in a circular motion. Remove the screen immediately.
Using the soft fan brush, apply three coats of SC076 Cara-Bein Blue to the bottom of the canister up to where the silkscreen starts.
Using the detail liner brush, apply two thin rings of glaze, one right at the top of the silkscreen and another about half an inch above that.
Using the sponge-on-a-stick, applu one coat sponge dot scallops around the rim of the container.
Once the Silkscreen has dried, carefully apply one coat of S2101 Crystal Clear Brushing to the outside of the canister.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 3 coats of FN009 Black to the back of the plate then apply 2 coats to the top of the plate. Apply with a CB618 Fan Brush.
Apply 2 coats of EL132 Rust Red to the top of the plate. Apply with a CB618 Fan Brush.
With a round sponge on a stick apply 2 coats of dots of PC601 Clear Cascade, make sure the dots are close together. Where there is blank space between the dots apply 1 coats of smaller dots with a CB106 Script Liner.
Fire to cone 06.
Inspired by Kathy McGuire’s Frozen Pond technique.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 3 coats of FN009 Black to the back of the plate then apply 2 coats to the top of the plate. Apply with a CB618 Fan Brush.
Apply 2 coats of EL101 Oyster Shell to the top of the plate. Apply with a CB618 Fan Brush.
With a round sponge on a stick apply 2 coats of dots of PC601 Clear Cascade, make sure the dots are close together. Where there is blank space between the dots apply 1 coats of smaller dots with a CB106 Script Liner.
Fire to cone 06.
Inspired by Kathy McGuire’s Frozen Pond technique.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
With a #4 Soft Fan Brush (RB144) apply 3 coats of S2727 Poppy Fields to the top 1/3rd and the entire inside of the bowl.
Apply 2 coats of UG216 Peach to the bottom 2/3rd of the bowl, including the bottom, using a #4 Soft Fan Brush.
Using a detail bottle or small syringe, apply a thick layer of SW429 Red Melt Gloop to the middle of the bowl where the underglaze and the Jungle Gems meet. The product will run during firing.
Using a detail bottle or small syringe, apply a thick layer of SW420 White Melt Gloop over the Red to create a layered effect. The product will run after during firing.
Fire to cone 6.
Additional Adaptations & Tips
You do not need to wipe the underglaze from the bottom of the piece. Underglaze does not stick to the kiln shelf
You do not need to stilt this piece, but the piece may be placed on a cookie or piece of soft brick, in case Gloop runs.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
With a #4 Soft Fan Brush (RB144) apply 3 coats of UG003 Baby Blue to the center of the mug, starting about 3” down from the rim, and stopping just above the foot of the mug.
Apply 2 coats of SW224 Tropical Teal to the top 3” of the mug along with the entire inside of the mug, the handle and the bottom foot of the mug using a #4 Soft Fan Brush.
Apply 2 coats of SW156 Galaxy over the Tropical Teal using a #4 Soft Fan Brush.
Using a detail bottle or small syringe, apply SW424 Blue Melt Gloop and SW420 White Melt Gloop to the mug where glaze and underglaze meet.
Wipe excess glaze off the bottom of the mug.
Do not stilt this piece, but the piece may be placed on a cookie or piece of soft brick, in case the Melt Gloop runs.
Start with properly-fired bisque. Wipe away any dust with a damp sponge.
Using an AC220 Detailer Tip and 10z Bottle filled with SW408 White Flux, apply 2 rows of “W”s.
Using an AC220 Detailer Tip and 10z Bottle filled with SC097 Cant-elope, place dots inside the loops of the top row of “W”s.
Using an AC220 Detailer Tip and 10z Bottle filled with SC009 Jaded, place dots inside the loops of the bottom row of “W”s.
Using an AC220 Detailer Tip and 10z Bottle filled with SC013 Grapel, place dots under the loops of the bottom row of “W”s and around the rim of the top of the bowl
Apply 3 coats of SW146 Abalone to the outside of the bowl, avoiding the foot, using a RB140 #8 Soft Fan brush. Let dry between coats.
Apply 3 coats of SW146 Abalone to the inside of the bowl using a RB140 #8 Soft Fan brush. Let dry between coats.
Start with properly-fired bisque. Wipe away any dust with a damp sponge.
Using an AC220 Detailer Tip and 10z Bottle filled with SW407 Clear Flux, apply 2 rows of “W”s.
Using an AC220 Detailer Tip and 10z Bottle filled with SC097 Cant-elope, place dots inside the loops of the top row of “W”s.
Using an AC220 Detailer Tip and 10z Bottle filled with SC009 Jaded, place dots inside the loops of the bottom row of “W”s.
Using an AC220 Detailer Tip and 10z Bottle filled with SC013 Grapel, place dots under the loops of the bottom row of “W”s and around the rim of the top of the bowl
Apply 3 coats of SW146 Abalone to the outside of the bowl, avoiding the foot, using a RB140 #8 Soft Fan brush. Let dry between coats.
Apply 3 coats of SW146 Abalone to the inside of the bowl using a RB140 #8 Soft Fan brush. Let dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 2 coats of UG050 Jet Black the outside of the mug, do not glaze the bottom or inside of the mug. Apply with a RB144 Soft Fan.
Apply 3 coats of either SP213 Speckled Grapel or SP209 Speckled Jaded to the inside of the mug. Apply with a RB144 Soft Fan.
Mix SW420 White Melt Gloop and either SP213 Speckled Grapel or SP209 Speckled Jaded.
The mixture will be one part Melt Gloop to 3 parts Speckled Stroke and Coat.
Apply 2 thin coats of the thicken mixture to only the top half of the mug. Apply with a RB144 Soft Fan.
While applying build up the edge of the glaze rim in the middle of the mug.
While the glaze rim is still wet slightly flatten the rim if needed. The rim should be slightly thicker than the base gloop mixture application. Do this with a RB144 Soft Fan.
If cracking occurs while drying or you want the glaze to be more vibrant apply one thin coat SP213 Speckled Grapel or SP209 Speckled Jaded over the Gloop mixture.
Fire to cone 6.
Tip: For best practices fire the Underglaze or Engobe to a cone 04 before applying the gloop mixture.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
With the RB144 Soft fan glaze 3 coats of UG220 Sage onto the legs, belly, head, and inside of the turtle box.
Avoid glazing the bottom of the feet.
Apply the same glaze to bottom half of the shell and the inside, apply 3 coats. Avoid Glazing the inside rim.
Apply 2 coats of SW120 Northern Woods onto the top of the turtle shell. Apply with a RB106 Script Liner.
Apply 2 coats of SW253 Green Opal onto the top of the turtle Shell. Apply with a RB106 Script Liner.
Apply 2 coats of SW408 White Flux in a hexagon pattern on top of the shell. Add small dots to fill in the gapes between the hexagons. Apply with a RB106 Script Liner.
Apply one coat of UG068 Apple Green using a Dotting Gyre around the bottom of the shell and for the eyes.
Fire to cone 6.
Turtle 2 – Leaf Green:
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
With the RB144 Soft fan glaze 3 coats of UG021 Leaf Green onto the legs, belly, head, and inside of the turtle box.
Avoid glazing the bottom of the feet.
Apply the same glaze to bottom half of the shell and the inside, apply 3 coats. Avoid Glazing the inside rim.
Apply 2 coats of SW128 Cordovan onto the top of the turtle shell. Apply with a RB106 Script Liner.
Apply 2 coats of SW108 Green Tea onto the top of the turtle Shell. Apply with a RB106 Script Liner.
Apply 2 coats of SW408 White Flux in a hexagon pattern on top of the shell. Add small dots to fill in the gaps between the hexagons. Apply with a RB106 Script Liner.
Apply one coat of UG232 Olive using a Dotting Gyre around the bottom of the shell and for the eyes.
Fire to cone 6.
Turtle 3 – True Teal:
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
With the RB144 Soft fan glaze 3 coats of UG091 True Teal onto the legs, belly, head, and inside of the turtle box.
Avoid glazing the bottom of the feet.
Apply the same glaze to bottom half of the shell and the inside, apply 3 coats. Avoid Glazing the inside rim.
Apply 2 coats of SW112 Triger’s Eye onto the top of the turtle shell. Apply with a RB106 Script Liner.
Apply 2 coats of SW101 Stone Demin onto the top of the turtle Shell. Apply with a RB106 Script Liner.
Apply 2 coats of SW408 White Flux in a hexagon pattern on top of the shell. Add small dots to fill in the gaps between the hexagons. Apply with a RB106 Script Liner.
Apply one coat of UG019 Electra Blue using a Dotting Gyre around the bottom of the shell and for the eyes.
Fire to cone 6.
Inspired by Kathy McGuire’s Frozen Pond technique.
Begin by wiping down the bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Fill 6 AC220 Detail bottles with the Elements glazes listed.
Prepare the prism technique by squirting out a line of each color from the detail bottle, side by side and touching, on the pallet in this order: EL127 Rose Granite, EL128 Wheat, EL166 Foliage green, EL153 Caribbean Blue, EL118 Blue Grotto, EL149 Lavender Flower
Using the soft fan brush, start from the bottom of the rainbow glaze pallet and pat the glaze into the brush bristles.
Apply the glaze mixture randomly and thickly in different directions across the face of the bisque piece, ensuring no bare bisque is showing.
Apply two coats of EL149 Lavender Flower to the inside of the vase.
Begin by wiping down the bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Fill 6 AC220 Detail bottles with the stoneware gloss glazes listed.
Prepare the prism technique by squirting out a line of each color from the detail bottle, side by side and touching, on the pallet in this order: SW512 Coral Gloss, SW502 Yellow Gloss, SW515 Aqua Gloss, SW506 Bright Blue Gloss, SW505 Purple Gloss, SW511 Pink Gloss
Using the soft fan brush, start from the bottom of the rainbow glaze pallet and pat the glaze into the brush bristles.
Apply the glaze mixture randomly in different directions across the face of the bisque piece.
Apply three coats of SW140 Black Matte to the inside of the vase.
Begin by wiping down the bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Fill 6 AC220 Detail bottles with the stoneware gloss glazes listed.
Prepare the prism technique by squirting out a line of each color from the detail bottle, side by side and touching, on the pallet in this order: SW512 Coral Gloss, SW502 Yellow Gloss, SW515 Aqua Gloss, SW506 Bright Blue Gloss, SW505 Purple Gloss, SW511 Pink Gloss.
Using the soft fan brush, start from the bottom of the rainbow glaze pallet and pat the glaze into the brush bristles.
Apply the glaze mixture randomly in different directions across the face of the bisque piece.
Once the piece is covered, go back over the first layer of rainbows with a second layer of rainbows, doing your best to go in different directions from the first layer.
Apply three coats of SW140 Black Matte to the inside of the spoon rest.
Begin by wiping down the bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Fill 6 AC220 Detail bottles with the stoneware gloss glazes listed.
Prepare the prism technique by squirting out a line of each color from the detail bottle, side by side and touching, on the pallet in this order: SW512 Coral Gloss, SW502 Yellow Gloss, SW515 Aqua Gloss, SW506 Bright Blue Gloss, SW505 Purple Gloss, SW511 Pink Gloss
Using the soft fan brush, start from the bottom of the rainbow glaze pallet and pat the glaze into the brush bristles.
Apply the glaze mixture randomly in different directions across the face of the bisque piece.
Once the piece is covered, go back over the first layer of rainbows with a second layer of rainbows, doing your best to go in different directions from the first layer.
Apply three coats of SW140 Black Matte to the inside of the stein.
Begin by wiping down the bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Mix two ounces of SC015 Tuxedo with a heavy pinch of AC310 Silkscreen Medium using a pallet knife and set aside to let thicken up.
Prepare the prism technique by squirting out a line of each color directly from the bottle, side by side and touching, on the pallet in this order: SC050 Orange Ya Happy, SC024 Dandelion, SC096 Aqu-ward, SC028 Blue Isle, SC103 Lavendear, SC070 Pink-A-Dot
Using the soft fan brush, start from the bottom of the rainbow glaze pallet and pat the glaze into the brush bristles.
Apply the glaze mixture randomly in different directions across the face of the bisque piece.
Once the piece is covered, go back over the first layer of rainbows with a second layer of rainbows, doing your best to go in different directions from the first layer.
Note: If possible, allow this base layer to dry overnight or for a couple of hours before applying the silkscreen steps for the best silkscreen application.
Apply three coats of SC015 Tuxedo to the inside of the tea bag container.
Using your finger, apply the silkscreen medium and SC015 Tuxedo mixture from step 2 to the Art Deco silkscreen with light pressure in a circular motion on the pre-glazed sides of the container. Remove the screen immediately each time.
Begin by wiping down the bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Fill 6 AC220 Detail bottles with the Stoneware glazes listed.
Prepare the prism technique by squirting out a line of each color from the detail bottle, side by side and touching, on the pallet in this order: SW119 Cinnabar, SW168 Coral Sands, SW169 Frosted Lemon, SW253 Green Opal, SW224 Tropical Teal, SW165 Lavender Mist
Using the soft fan brush, start from the bottom of the rainbow glaze pallet and pat the glaze into the brush bristles.
Apply the glaze mixture randomly in different directions across the face of the bisque piece, ensuring no bare bisque is showing.
Repeat step 5 two times, doing your best to overlap the glazes in the exact same direction.
Apply three coats of SW224 Tropical Teal to the inside of the vase.
Begin by wiping down the bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Mix two ounces of SC015 Tuxedo with a heavy pinch of AC310 Silkscreen Medium using a pallet knife and set aside to let thicken up.
Prepare the prism technique by squirting out a line of each color directly from the bottle, side by side and touching, on the pallet in this order: SC0088 TuTuTango, SC024 Dandelion, SC105 Tic-Tac-Turquoise, SC011 Blue Yonder, SC072 Grape Jelly, SC001 Pink-a-Boo.
Using the soft fan brush, start from the bottom of the rainbow glaze pallet and pat the glaze into the brush bristles.
Apply the glaze mixture randomly in different directions across the outside and bottom of all three mugs.
Once each mug is covered, go back over the first layer of rainbows with a second layer of rainbows, doing your best to go in different directions from the first layer.
Note: If possible, allow this base layer to dry overnight or for a couple of hours before applying the silkscreen steps for the best silkscreen application.
Apply three coats of SC015 Tuxedo to the inside and handles of the mugs.
Using your finger, apply the silkscreen medium and SC015 Tuxedo mixture from step 2 to the paisley silkscreens with light pressure in a circular motion on the pre-glazed sides of the container. Remove the screen immediately each time. The smallest mug gets the smallest paisleys, the medium mug gets the medium size paisleys, the large mug gets the large and medium size paisleys.
Outline the paisleys with two coats of a thick line of SC016 Coton Tail.
Mix a 3:1 mixture of SC016:SC015 to create a grey tone. Using the detail brush, create a grey shadow under each of the paisleys to create a 3D effect.
Using the detail brush and SC016 Cotton Tail, create small starbursts and dots around the paisleys to mimic shine.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 3 coats of FN009 Black to the back of the plate then apply 2 coats to the top of the plate. Apply with a CB618 Fan Brush.
Apply 2 coats of EL132 Rust Red to the top of the plate. Apply with a CB618 Fan Brush.
With a round sponge on a stick apply 2 coats of dots of PC602 White Cascade, make sure the dots are close together. Where there is blank space between the dots apply 1 coats of smaller dots with a CB106 Script Liner.
Fire to cone 06.
Inspired by Kathy McGuire’s Frozen Pond technique.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 3 coats of FN009 Black to the back of the plate then apply 2 coats to the top of the plate. Apply with a CB618 Fan Brush.
Apply 2 coats of EL117 Waterfall to the top of the plate. Apply with a CB618 Fan Brush.
With a round sponge on a stick apply 2 coats of dots of PC602 White Cascade, make sure the dots are close together. Where there is blank space between the dots apply 1 coats of smaller dots with a CB106 Script Liner.
Fire to cone 06.
Inspired by Kathy McGuire’s Frozen Pond technique.
Dilute each E-Z Stroke colors two parts water with one part color in small cups.
Use the script liner to dab the diluted color on the sides of the vase. You want the colors to flow and drip. Continue to add drips as you work up the side of the shape. You want them to overlap.
One dry, apply thin lines of White Designer Liner around the drips. They don’t need to be exact where colors have flowed together or mixed. Always try to hold the bottle at an angle (rather than straight up and down) and try to pull the bottle toward yourself, rather than pushing away. Scraping the tip of Designer Liner in the color below can plug the tip.
Apply three coats of Sapphire Blue to the top area of the vase and interior. You can dilute the Sapphire Blue one part water to one part color to roll on the inside and dump out excess color.
Fire to cone 6.
Optional: Apply clear glaze to the E-Z Stroke area if you want it to be glossy.
Begin by wiping down the bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Mix one ounce of SC076 Cara-Bein Blue with a pinch of AC310 Silkscreen Medium using a palette knife and set aside to let thicken up.
Using your finger, apply the silkscreen medium and SC076 Cara-bean Blue mixture from step 2 to the Paisley silkscreen with light pressure in a circular motion on the center of the bisque pitcher. Remove the screen immediately.
Apply three coats of SC076 Cara-bein Blue to the base of the pitcher under the edge of the silkscreen and an inch and a half above the silkscreen.
Apply three coats of SP289 Speckled Cutie Pie Coral above the band of blue until you reach the first ridge on the lip of the pitcher.
Apply three coats od SP2105 Speckled Tic-Tac-Turquoise to the lip of the pitcher, and inside.
Once the Silkscreen has dried, Use the detail liner brush to fill in one thick layer or SC105 Tic-tac-Turquoise and SP289 Speckled Cutie Pie Coral to the silkscreen design like a coloring book.
Apply one coat of NTBR Clear One Brushing Glaze to the Center of the pitcher where the silkscreen is applied to cover any thin areas and areas of plain bisque.
Allow to dry, stilt, and fire to cone 06.
For a video walkthrough of how to use Jessica Putnam-Phillips Silkscreens click below:
In this Art Spark, students carve nesting tunnels into a solid-ish clay block to create a sculptural garden pod that provides habitat for solitary bees and beneficial insects. The finished pieces have usable nesting holes (keep the insides unglazed) and colorful, textured decorations on the outside.
Great For
STEAM connections (art + environmental science)
Outdoor garden sculpture and functional ceramics.
Spring ceramic projects and art camps
Simple Directions
Form a solid block (grapefruit size) shape into an organic form (log, stone, mound)
Carve nesting holes with dowels/pencils; do not go through the back, tilt holes up 5-10* and keep the interior of the holes smooth as not to damage the fragile wings of the insects.
Smooth tunnel interiors; add textures, leaves, or a small overhang roof.
Begin with a properly fired cone 06-04 bisque vessel.
Using a RB144 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of SC33 Fruit of the Vine or SC27 Sour Apple to the entire piece, avoiding the bottom.
Apply 2 coat of either SW226 Pink Pearl or SW227 Tidal Wave to the exterior of the mug, below the lip line. On the second coat leave about ½-1” of space near the bottom to avoid run-off.
Clean the bottom of the piece with a damp sponge.
Place directly on the kiln shelf and fire to cone 6.
Using a RB144 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of UG51 China White evenly to the outside of the vessel. Since the piece it leather hard, you will need to wait additional time in between coat for them to fully dry (so you can touch it without creating blemishes).
Once the underglaze is dry, apply 1 coat of AC302 Wax Resist. This will help preserve the clean white surface as you are carving through into the brown clay.
Using a pencil or marker, lightly compose your design on the piece.
Using your favorite carving tool, outline the entire design. Once outlined, carve out the background of the design by removing one stroke at a time. These ones are vertical but feel free try out different patterns. You can create some interesting dimension by hatching at different angles or by creating movement in the background.
Allow the piece to dry. Once it is bone dry, clean up any extra blemishes or boogers that remain throughout your carving pattern. Doing this too early can smudge your edges and design.
Bisque fire your piece to cone 06-04.
Using an CB624 #4 Glaze Fan, apply 2 coats of SW225 Lily Pad to the entire piece. Use the stiffness of this brush to pull the glaze out of the texture. You do not want it to be applied too thick or to pool or it can distort the carved design. Apply a third coat to the inside of the vase.
Clean the bottom of the piece with a damn sponge.
Place directly on the kiln shelf and fire to cone 6.
Begin with a leather hard vessel made with a white stoneware clay – samples used Laguna B-mix.
Using an RB144 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of SW229 Mood Ring to the outside of the piece; leave ¼-1/2” below the lip unglazed as this glaze is not recommended for dinnerware. This area will be covered with the combo glaze, that is dinnerware safe, after the bisque firing.
Use a Xiem Mini Ribbon Sculpting Tool to carve a design into the piece. I like to keep one hand on the inside to provide support and to ensure I do not carve through the wall.
Once the carving is complete, allow the vessel to finish drying.
Bisque fire to cone 06-04.
Using an RB144 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of SW128 Cordovan to the entire piece (avoiding the bottom). Add a third coat to the interior, lip, and handle.
Clean the bottom of the piece with a damp sponge.
Place directly on the kiln shelf and fire to cone 6.
Begin with a properly fired cone 06-04 bisque vessel.
Apply AC302 Wax resist to the bottom.
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SW167 Sand and Sea to the handle.
Once the glaze is completely dry, use dipping tongs to dip the entire piece with SD165 Lavender Mist. Depending on your glaze consistency, dip the exterior a second time.
Clean the bottom of the piece with a damn sponge.
Place directly on the kiln shelf and fire to cone 6.
Additional Adaptations & Tips
This project can be completed using SW165 Lavender Mist where it is brushed on, but the outcome will be different. In my personal practice, I have found that SD165-169 tend to only create this kind of visual texture when they are applied as dipping glazes on this particular clay body. When they are applied as brushing glazes, they tend to be more opaque and less speckled. This is not a speckled clay body, this effect is a reaction between the clay and glaze. You can observe how the opacity builds on the handles of these pieces where the brushing SW167 is applied.
As for the consistency of the dipping glaze, I have my glazed mixed to be used with layering and combinations. I honestly do not measure my glaze density, but I would guess it is usually hovering around 1.36-1.40. This works for me with my clay in my personal practice, but keep in mind a different consistency may work for you and that is totally okay. We are just looking for a full application here whether that be with different density measurements or different number of dips.
Form
Thrown and Sculpted Vessel – KY Mudworks Brown Bear
Begin with a leather hard vessel made with a white stoneware clay – samples used Laguna B-mix.
Using an RB144 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 even coats of SW230 Pink Speck or SW232 Baby Blue Speck to the outside of the vessel. Allow extra time for coats to dry since the glaze is being applied to a moist surface.
Apply 1 coat of AC302 Wax resist over the glaze.
Use a Xiem Mini Ribbon Sculpting Tool to carve a design into the piece. The depth and structure of the design should be reflective of the vessel. I like to keep one hand on the inside to provide support and to ensure I do not carve through the wall.
Once the carving is complete, allow the vessel to finish drying.
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner fill the carved design with the corresponding Stroke and Coat color. Two loaded coats should be plenty.
Use a damp sponge to clean any Stroke and Coat off the waxed area.
Bisque fire to cone 06-04.
Using an RB144 #4 Soft Fan and a CB106#6 Script Liner, Apply 2 saturated coats of the corresponding Stroke and Coat color to the inside and the handle of the piece.
Place directly on the kiln shelf and fire to cone 6.
Begin with a properly fired cone 06-04 bisque vessel.
Using a RB144 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of SW165 Lavender Mist to the entire vessel (not the bottom or handle). Apply a third coat to the interior.
Apply 2 coats of SW228 Beetle Wing to the exterior of the piece, since this glaze is not recommended for surfaces that directly come into contact with food (Not Dinnerware Safe) be sure begin the combination at least an inch below the rim. This combination can create a lot of movement and we want the outcome to create a gradient, so you will want to apply one coat to the bottom section and then the second coat across the middle of that section. This will leave space for the combination to move down and allow the Lavender Mist gradually fade into the full combination.
Clean the bottom of the piece with a damp sponge.
Place directly on the kiln shelf and fire to cone 6.
Using a RB144 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of UG229 Aquamarine to the belly of the vessel.
Allow the piece to dry completely.
Bisque fire your piece to cone 06-04.
Using an RB144 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of flux to the top section of the vessel.
Once dry, apply 3 coats of SW165 Lavender Mist on top of that.
Using an RB144 #4 Soft Fan CAREFULLY apply SW444 Pink Bead to the piece. The application thickness can vary depending on the performance of the glaze as it dries.
Try to move the piece into the kiln before it has entirely dried, as Beads can be very fragile as they start to dry and separate.
Place directly on the kiln shelf and fire to cone 6.
Form
Thrown Vessel – KY Mudworks Brown Bear
Colors
UG229 Aquamarine
SW165 Lavender Mist
SW401 Light Flux
SW444 Pink Bead
Decorating Accessories
RB144 #4 Soft Fan Brush
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sponge
Mid-Range|Clay
407|401
58782
Curvy Speckled Brown Wheel Thrown Vase with Red Melt Gloop
Directions (Please remember to write clear and concise directions, include item numbers and names)
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of EL135 Rare Earth to the stem and 3 coats to the underside of the mushroom top.Allow to dry!
Stir and shake the CG1013 Papaya glaze.Place some of the glaze on a paper plate or palette.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of CG1013 Papaya top of the mushroom. Allow to dry!
Pour some PC602 White Cascade and PC601 Clear Cascade onto a paper plate or glazed tile (palette).
Using a Plastic Pot Scrubber, dab some of the PC602 Whit Cascade to the top of the mushroom and to about 1 ½ inches from the bottom of the stem.Repeat using the PC601 Clear Cascade. Do not cover the areas completely, allow the bas glaze to show through.Allow to dry!
Stir and shake the S2708 Oriental Carmel and the S2709 Cappuccino Mint glaze.Place some of the S2708 Oriental Carmel glaze on a paper plate or palette.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of S2708 Oriental Carmel to the mushroom top.Allow to dry between each coat!
Stir and shake the S2709 Cappuccino Mint glaze.Place some of the S2709 Cappuccino Mint glaze on a paper plate or palette.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of S2709 Cappuccino Mint to the mushroom stem.Allow to dry between each coat!
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.
Additional Adaptations & Tips if needed.
Make sure to shake all products to mix well.
Pottery Cascades™ are moving, flowing glazes, commonly used under or over other glazes to create reactions and movement.
PC601 Clear Cascade will have more movement than PC602 White Cascade.
The Cascades can be applied over, under or in between glazes such as Elements, Jungle Gems, Foundations and Stroke & Coats.
The heavier application of the Cascades the more movement it will have.
Cascades can also be used in glaze combinations such as the plop technique.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of UG032 Cocoa to the plain area of the stem.Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of FN009 Black to the top of the Skirt of the mushroom stem and to the mushroom top inside and out. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of PC602 White Cascade to the Skirt of the mushroom Stem. Then apply 2 coats of EL118 Blue Grotto.Allow to dry between coats!
Using a pencil, divide the mushroom top into sections with 4 rows for the 1 1/4” Sponge on Stick and 2 rows for the 3/4’” Sponge on the stick.
Pour some PC602 White Cascade onto a paper plate or glazed tile (palette).
Using the 1 ¾” Sponge on a Stick, apply dots, 2 coats of PC602 White Cascade to the top of the mushroom bottom 4 rows with ½” dots in between the previous dots. Then using the ¾” Sponge on the Stick, apply 2 rows above the previous rows. Add a dot on the very top with the 1 ¾” Sponge on a Stick.Allow to dry between coats!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of EL118 Blue Grotto to the mushroom top.Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.
Additional Adaptations & Tips if needed.
Make sure to shake all products to mix well.
Pottery Cascades™ are moving, flowing glazes, commonly used under or over other glazes to create reactions and movement.
PC601 Clear Cascade will have more movement than PC602 White Cascade.
The Cascades can be applied over, under or in between glazes such as Elements, Jungle Gems, Foundations and Stroke & Coats.
The heavier application of the Cascades the more movement it will have.
Cascades can also be used in glaze combinations such as the plop technique.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using an AB 708 ¾ Flat Shader, basecoat the top of the mushroom on both sides with OS480 Garnet Red. Allow to dry!
Using a DB803 #8 Round Dry Brush, starting on the top side of the mushroom, drybrush both sides of the mushroom with OS568 Fire Thorn, then OS483 Real Red, then OS449 Bright Red.
Not cleaning the brush, continue drybrushing, moving down about a third of the way working from the red into the orange color start with OS439 Hot Orange then OS484 Permission then OS438 Orange Peel.Remember to also do the underside working from the cast hole toward the outer edge.
Now starting the final third of the mushroom, drybrush with OS588 Golden Ocher, then OS436 Gold, then OS435 Dark, then OS435 Dark Yellow.
Using an AB709 3/8 Angular Shader, shade the deep crevices of the large segments of the mushroom with OS480 Garnet Red.Allow to dry!
Using an AB 708 ¾ Flat Shader, basecoat the mushroom stem with OS467 Light Brown.
Using a DB805 #3 Fan, streak the following colors on the mushroom stem to your liking starting with OS599 Medium Taupe, then OS471 Medium Brown, then with OS472 Walnut.Allow to dry!
Using an AB 708 ¾ Flat Shader, apply 2 light coats of AS954 Matte Sealer.Allow to dry between each coat!
Using an AB706 #2 Filbert, apply dots on the top of the mushroom with AS964 No Fire Snow.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Dilute about a quarter size amount of the Stroke & Coat® colors in separate small cups with two parts water to one part color.
Dab the diluted colors randomly over one half of the vase doing a small area at a time, and wet into wet. You want the colors to bleed into one another, so don’t do blotches of one color in select areas over the entire surface, because the color will dry before you add the two additional colors. You don’t need to wash the brush between colors.
Pick the vase up and allow the colors to move. For additional movement, gently mist the wet colors with water using a mister bottle. Be careful not to add too much water that you completely wash out the color.
Add additional dabs of diluted Stroke & Coat® in some areas to get more intense color.
On the bottom half of the vase, apply three coats of non-diluted Stroke & Coat® color of your choice with a Fan Brush. Stroke & Coat® becomes more opaque with each additional coat and will block out any drips of color on that area.
While the coats of Stroke & Coat® dry, apply optional lines of White Designer Liner following the outlines of color blotches.
When all the colors are dry, apply two coats of clear glaze over the entire tile.
Wipe a damp sponge on the surface to remove any dust.
Use a dampened fan brush to pick up Bright Yellow and apply to the bottom half of the tile. White it is still wet or damp, use the same brush (without washing) loading with Fire Engine Red and starting at the top of the tile, apply working down into the Bright Yellow. Work the brush to blend the Bright Yellow into the Fire Engine Red to create a blend and remove any defined line where the colors meet. Dampen the brush to help with blending if needed. Notice how these colors blend to create a shade of orange where the colors overlap.
If you want some depth and sparkle in your sky, use the sea sponge to dab some Clear One Brushing over the tile. You only want small areas with the clear glaze. This will leave darker, shiny spots. Do not cover the tile solid with clear.
Transfer the pattern to the tile. You can also freehand your own design.
Determine what colors you want on your cactus. Use the Snow Gems as they are designed, or you can tint them with Fundamentals Underglaze colors. Mix small amounts on the tile. Only a few drops of Fundamentals® are needed to tint. Remember, the base of Snow Gems is white, so it will always lighten the color you add to tint.
Apply two to three coats of Snow Gems in the colors of your choice to the cactus designs. Allow to dry.
Use any of the Fundamentals® Underglazes to outline and shade the cactus. Notice how Fundamentals® colors can be used right on top of Snow Gems with no fear of movement. Use the Leaf Green and detail liner brush to add come blades of grass coming up from the bottom.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 3 coats of SC005 Tiger Tail to the body of the cow. Allow to dry!
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round and a CB202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 3 coats of SC051 Poo Bear to the hair on the head, around the neck and the tip of the tail. Allow to dry!
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 3 coats of SC054 Vanilla Dip to the horns and the muzzle, then 3 coats of SC002 Melon-choly to the front of the nose. Allow to dry!
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round and a CB202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 3 coats of SC048 Camel Back to the inside of the ears, the feet and inside the nostrils. Allow to dry!
Using a CB202 #2 Detail liner, apply 2 coats of SC016 Cotton Tail to the eye area. Allow to dry!
Using a CB110 #10/0 Liner outline and detail the eyes with SC015 Tuxedo. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 3 coats of SC001 Pink-A-Boo to the main part of the body of the Axolotl except the belly and the center part of the tail. Allow to dry!
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round and a CB202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 3 coats of SC100 Makin’ Me Blush to the belly. Allow to dry!
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round and a CB202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 3 coats of SC017 Cheeky Pinky to the sides of the tail, the spikes on the head, the inside of the mouth and to the inside of the feet and nostrils. Allow to dry!
Using a CB202 #2 Detail liner, apply 2 coats of SC016 Cotton Tail to the eye area. Allow to dry!
Using a CB110 #10/0 Liner outline and detail the eyes with SC015 Tuxedo. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Draw a rectangle starting from the top then to the middle of the tile, add a frame around the rectangle to make it look more like a window.
Apply 3 coats UG051 China White in the middle of your rectangle. Apply with a CB308 Flat Shader.
Add a pinch of AC310 Silkscreen Medium to EL143 Cactus Flower, mix with a palette knife until the mixer is as smooth as peanut butter.
Cut around the image the cat and place it smooth side down over the UG051 China White.
Using your finger apply the silkscreen mixer over the image of the cat, then remove the silkscreen.
Apply 1 coat of EL127 Rose Granite onto the cat’s nose and one coat of EL153 Caribbean Blue to the cat’s eyes. Apply with an AB701 Detailed Brush.
Apply 3 coats of EL135 Rare Earth to the frame around the window. Apply with a CB308
Draw jagged edges around the window then apply 3 coats of EL144 Dark Amethyst. Apply with an AB701 Detailed Brush.
On the edges of the window seal draw two simple flowerpots with long vines. Apply 3 coats of EL153 Caribbean Blue to the flowerpots and then apply 3 coats of EL131 Turtle Shell to the vines. Apply with an AB701 Detailed Brush.
Behind the cat apply 3 cats of EL153 Caribbean Blue to make it look like the cat is sitting on a pillow. Apply with an AB701 Detailed Brush.
With your finger apply EL144 Dark Amethyst randomly in the background, then over top apply 2 coats S2101 to only the background and where you randomly apply the EL144 Dark Amethyst. Apply with a RB106 Script Liner. The S2101 will change the color and make it appear lighter.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 3 coats of SC079 Sage Green to the back of the plate and the rim on the front. Apply with a RB144 Soft Fan.
Apply 3 coats of SC086 Old Lace to the middle of the plate. Apply with a RB144 Soft Fan.
Add a pinch of AC310 Medium Silkscreen to SC079 Sage Green.
Mix both together with a pallet knife until the texture is smooth like peanut butter.
Cut around your silkscreen image of the custom design; leave extra space around the image.
Place the custom design smooth side down in the middle of the plate over the SC086 Old Lace. It helps to tape the side down to prevent the silkscreen from moving.
With your finger rub the AC310 Medium silkscreen and SC079 Sage Green mixture over the custom image. Make sure there are no lumps and it is completely smooth.
Remove the silkscreen.
Apply stripes round the rim of the plate using SP286 Speckled Old Lace. Apply 3 coats using an AB701 Detail Brush.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour SG101 Rapid Roll White into the vase, roll the glaze about and dump out the extra glaze.
Mix together a ratio of 50/50 water and SC045 My blue Heaven.
Apply 2 coats of splotches all over the vase with a CB106 Script Liner.
Repeat step 3 with SC068 Old Lace.
Once dry use your pencil to draw a big wave in the middle of the vase, then draw blossom flower all over the side and back of the vase.
Outline all the flowers, the wave, and the rim around the middle circle with one coat of FD258 Pure White.
Fill in the top of the wave by applying 2 coats of CG788 Dutch Enamelware, then apply 3 coats of SC031 The Blues to the bottom of the wave. Apply with an AB701 Detail Brush.
Mix together a ratio of 50/50 water and SC041 Brown Cow.
Apply 1-2 coats of splotches around the middle ring with a CB106 Script Liner.
On both sides of the middle ring apply 2 coats of CG795 Yadro Print. Apply with an AB701 Detail Brush.
Fill in all the flowers by apply 2 coats CG1014 Pink Plum with an AB701 Detail Brush.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
With a RB144 #4 Soft Fan Brush apply two coats of UG050 Jet Black Underglaze to the entire outside of your vase and on the interior top section of the curvy vase.
With a RB144 #4 Soft Fan Brush apply two coats of SP286 Speckled Cutie Pie Coral to the middle and bottom sections of your vase.
With a RB144 #4 Soft Fan Brush, apply two coats of SW226 Pink Pearl to the outside top and middle section, as well as the interior top section of your vase.
Kindness leaves a mark. In this Art Spark, students create small ceramic tokens using the sole of their own shoe as texture, turning something that carries them through the world into a symbol of where they’ve been, who they are, and how they show up for others. Each token becomes a wish meant to be traded, gifted, or left behind for someone else to find.
These aren’t just clay tokens; they’re tiny reminders that kindness travels.
Great For
Ceramics classrooms exploring identity, empathy, or community
School, camps & workshops focused on mindfulness and personal meaning
End-of-term projects that balance reflection with play
Quick, soulful projects for all skill levels
Clay Technique
Slab rolling & cut-out forms
Texture pressing (shoe soles, found objects)
Adding or pressing words or symbols after texturing
Optional: attach a magnet or add a hole for hanging or wearing
Simple Directions
Roll a slab of clay to about ¼” thickness.
Press the sole of your shoe firmly into the clay to create texture (sandwich clay in plastic wrap before adding pressure).
Cut out small token shapes (circles, hearts, tags, footprints, stones) from the most interesting part of the shoe impression.
Option to add a word, phrase, or symbol that represents kindness, care, or encouragement.
Smooth edges and poke a hole if the token will be worn, tied, or hung.
Opportunity to glaze leather hard clay, just one fire! (avoid glazing the back of the token if you follow this step to allow for outgassing)
Mayco Glaze Suggestions
Several Glaze lines represented. Foundations Sheer and Elements glazes work great to enhance the textures
Foundations Sheer – Soft, sheer color highlight texture from shoe soles
Elements – Inspired by aspects of nature, when applied to detail pieces, the two-tone float color will appear in the crevices.
Stroke & Coat – Bright pops of color for symbols, borders, or uplifting words
Designer Liner – Ideal for lettering
Why? These glazes work beautifully on textured surfaces and small forms, allowing the sole impressions to remain visible while the message stays strong.
Variations & Extensions
Walk a Mile Tokens: Students reflect on someone else’s experience and create a token inspired by empathy.
Kindness Trail: Leave tokens along a walking path or school route with permission.
Sole Stories: Write a short reflection on where your shoes have taken you, and where your kindness might go next.
Community Trade: Invite other schools’ art classes to exchange tokens with your students.
What happens when two faces become one? In this Art Spark, students create a simple ceramic mask by mashing up two ideas, two animals, two emotions, or a human and an animal. The result is a playful mask that explores identity, contrast, and imagination without overthinking it.
Think: half fierce / half friendly, half real / half mythical, half you / half creature.
Each mask should clearly show two ideas combined into one face. Encourage bold differences rather than subtle changes using different shapes, expressions, or textures. Masks may be wall-hung, displayed on shelves, or worn briefly for photos (after firing).
Great For
Ceramics classrooms exploring identity or symbolism
Art camps and workshops
Intro to mask-making, slab construction, and drape molding
Projects that encourage creativity without complex building
Clay Technique
Slab construction
Press or Drape molding over a simple form (foam head, bowl, or hand-built hump)
Additive details (eyes, brows, noses)
Carving simple lines and texture
Simple Directions
Roll a slab to about ¼” thickness.
Drape the slab over a simple form to create a shallow mask shape.
Divide the mask visually in half (top/bottom or left/right or diagonal).
Design each side as a different face (animal/animal, human/animal, emotion/emotion).
Add basic features using small coils or slabs, keep it simple.
Cut eye holes and smooth edges.
Bisque fire
Glaze
Glaze fire
Mayco Glaze Suggestions
Stroke & Coat – Bold, saturated colors that clearly separate the two sides
Foundations – Smooth base colors for clean facial areas
Designer Liner – Perfect for outlining eyes, mouths, and details
Jungle Gems Crystal Glazes- Fun for animals or anywhere that magic sparkle is needed
Why? These glazes allow strong color contrast so each “side” of the mash-up gets the attention it deserves.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of PC601 Clear Cascade to the inside of the rice bowl. Allow to dry!
Start by filling the AC220 Tip and Bottle with PC602 White Cascade. Cut a small amount of the tip for the glaze to come out. Do not cut a lot of the tip off. This will cause to much glaze to come out of the tip.
Create a free hand w pattern around the top of the bowl with the PC602 White Cascade in step #2 then add a second row of w’s below the first row going in between the first row then place a straight line about 1 inch down from the second row. Allow to dry! Apply a second coat. NOTE: You can create the w’s by using a quarter a 25-cent coin to trace around with a pencil creating the w’s.
Place some SC040 Blue Berry Hill and some SC105 Tic Tac Turquoise on a paper plate (palette).
Using the ½” Sponge on a Stick, apply 2 coats of SC040 Blueberry Hill in the opening of the top row of w’s.
Using the ½” Sponge on a Stick, apply 2 coats of SC105 Tic Tac Turquoise in the opening of the second row of w’s. Allow to dry!
Using a #4 Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 coats of EL129 Slate to the top side of the bowl over everything that has been applied. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of PC601 Clear Cascade to the inside of the bowl over everything. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN009 Black to the back of the bowl. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan brush, apply 3 coats of UG067 Ivory to the top of the SB105 Rimmed Dinner Plate – Stoneware.Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SW501 White Gloss to the top of the SB104 Rimmed Salad Plate – Stoneware.Allow to dry!
With a pencil and AC230 Clay Carbon Paper, trace the pattern on both pieces.
Place some EZ055 Brick on a glazed tile.If needed, mix well with a palette knife.
Using a CB406 #6 Pointed Round brush, load the brush with the EZ055 Brick and apply to the flower and the leaves by doing a pressure stroke.On the flower, start from the bottom edge of the petal and pull the brush around the petal ending on the bottom of the other side.On the leaves, start the stroke from the bottom of the leaf by pressing, pulling, and lifting to a point.
Place some of the EZ010 French Brown on the glazed tile.
Using a CB110 10/0 Liner brush, outline, and detail all the leaves and flower petals with EZ010 French Brown.Add the center of the leaves using the CB202 #2 Detail Liner brush.Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan brush, apply 3 coats of SW513 Brown Gloss to the back of each plate.Allow to dry!
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner brush, apply 3 coats to the rim on the top of each plate.Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan brush, apply 2 coats of SW004 Zinc Free Clear glaze to the top of the SB105 Rimmed Dinner Plate – Stoneware. Not on the rim of the plate.Allow to dry!
There is no further glazing on the SB104 Rimmed Salad Plate – Stoneware.
Make sure that the foot of each plate has been cleaned with a damp sponge to remove any glaze on the foot.
Place the plates on a clean kiln washed shelf in the kiln, making sure that they do not hang over the edge of the kin shelf to prevent warping.
Fire to shelf cone 5/6.
Additional Adaptations & Tips if needed.
Make sure to shake all products to mix well.
EZ Strokes are pure pigment compared to Fundamentals underglaze, which is more like colored slip.
It is best to place EZ strokes on a glazed tile for a palette to do brush work.
EZ Strokes can be used for more than brush work.They can be used to color low fired slip or mid-range slips.Also, can be used to color clear glaze to create a sheer type glaze.
EZ Strokes can be fired from cone 06 – 6 and some with good results to cone 10.
EZ Strokes are intermixable to create other colors.
EZ Strokes can be used on greenware, bisque, over an underglaze and even over a glazed that has not been fired.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of SC026 Green Thumb to the toad, excluding the eyes. Allow to dry!
With a damp sponge, wipe back the SC026 Green Thumb, leaving it in the deep crevices.Allow to dry!Make sure to remove any color from the eyes.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of SC027 Sour Apple to the toad, excluding the chest and eyes.
Place some SC027 Sour Apple and SC052 Toad-ily Green on a palette.Mix the colors together.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of of the mix to the body of the toad, excluding the chest and the eyes.
Using a CB106 #6 Script liner, apply 1 coat of SC027 Sour Apple to the lip area.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2-3 coats of SP286 Speckled Old Lace to the chest area of the toad.
With a Damp sponge, sponge the body of the toad with SC105 Tic-Tac Turquoise.When sponging on the color, do not apply it solid. Allow some of the other colors exposed.Do not sponge the color on the face, lips, chest, or feet.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of SP289 Speckled Cutie Pie Coral to the feet. Allow to dry!
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SP289 Speckled Cutie Pie Coral to the spots on the toad.
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SC052 Toad-ily Green to the toenails.
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SC042 Butter Me Up to the eye area.Allow to dry!
Using a AB709 3/8 Angular Shader, shade the corners of the eyes with SC075 Orange-A-Peel.Allow to dry!
Shade the iris of the eyes with SC041 Brown Cow. Allow to dry!
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 2 coats of SC015 Tuxedo to the pupil of the eyes.Using a CB110 #10/0 Liner, outline the eyes with SC015 Tuxedo.Add a highlight with SC016 Cotton Tail.Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of NTBR Clear One to the toad.Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.
Additional tips:
Stroke & Coats can be mixed to create other colors.
The amount of coats applied will determine the depth of the colors..
The Speckled Stroke & Coats base color match the regular Stroke & Coats.The last two numbers of the Speckled Stroke & Coats match the regular Stroke & Coats eg.SP215 Speckled Tuxedo matches SC015 Tuxedo.
Stroke & Coats can be used as an antique by applying 1 coat of the color then wiping back with a damp sponge, then you can apply other colors over that.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 4 coats of FN301 Marshmallow White to the inside and the outside of the Butter Dish Top. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SC031 The Blues to the Butter Dish Tray. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of NTBR Clear One Brushing glaze to the Butterdish Tray
Using a Pencil and AC230 Clay Carbon Paper, trace the pattern to the top of the Butter Dish Top. Make sure to center the pattern.
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 3 -4 coats of SC031 The Blues to the pattern BUTTER. Allow to dry.
Place some SC099 Charming onto a paper plate. Sprinkel a small amount of AC310 Silkscreen Medium on top of the SC099 Charming and mix with a palette knife blending the color to the consistency of peanut butter or toothpaste.
Cut out your choice of flower design of your choice leaving a boarder around the flower. The sunflower / daisy was used for this piece.
Center the silkscreen in the middle of the Butter Dish Top. Using your finer tip, pick up some of the SC099 Charming mix. Starting in the center of the screen, rub the color over the screen working your way the edge of the flower and leaves. Clean the silkscreen with water and allow to dry!
Place some of the following colors onto to paper plate: SC014 Java Bean, SCo26 Green Thumb, SC027 Sour Apple, SC042 Butter Me Up, SC048 Camel Back and SC097 Cant-elope.
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of each color to the area as follows: flower petals – SC042 Butter Me Up, flower center – SC048 Camel Back then dab some SC014 Java Bean
around the outer edge of the center, upper part of leaves – SC027 Sour Apple; lower part of the leaves and the stems – SC026 Green Thumb.
Repeat step number 7 if your color has dried up.
Reposition the flower silkscreen over the colored flower making sure to line it up.
Using your finer tip, pick up some of the SC099 Charming mix. Starting in the center of the screen, rub the color over the screen working your way the edge of the flower and leaves. Remove the screen. Clean the silkscreen with water and allow to dry!
Repeat on the other side of the Butterdish Top. Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06/05.
Additional Adaptations & Tips if needed.
Make sure that you mix the AC310 Silkscreen Medium with the product of choice well.
A Palette Knife works best to mix the Silkscreen Medium and the color together.
Do not add any water to the color mix. If the color mix is too thin, add a small amount of more medium or if to think add some more color product.
Make sure to clean the screen after use. You do not want the color mix to dry in the screen.
The easiest way to clean the screen is to place it into a container of water that is larger than the screen. You do not want to jam the screen into a container that is too small, it adds a lot of wrinkles to the screen.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Center the mushroom top on the banding wheel.
Place some of the following colors on a plate: OS469 Light Turquoise; OS452 Purple; OS564 Pansy.
Using a AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, starting at the top of the mushroom cap, apply OS469 Light Turquoise, coming down about 1/3rd of the way while spinning the banding wheel. Next apply OS452 Purple about 2/3rds of the way down. Finally apply OS564 Pansy to the final third of the way down towards the bottom of the mushroom. Allow to dry!
Using a AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, apply OS484 Persimmon to the underside of the mushroom cap. Allow to dry!
Using a DB803 #8 Round, drybrush the underside of the mushroom cap with OS438 Orange Peel. Highlight with OS435 Dark Yellow.
Place the mushroom stem on the banding wheel.
Using a AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, apply OS596 Medium Portrait to the center section of the mushroom stem. Ap ply OS471 Medium Brown to the top and bottom of the stem blending into the OS596 Medium Portrait. Allow to dry!
Cut out both large Butterfly Silkscreens.
On a paper plate, place a small puddle of OS474 Gray. To this add a few pinches of AC310 Silkscreen Medium and mix well with a Palette Kinfe to the consistency of Peanut Butter or Toothpaste. Push the mix in a puddle.
Next, holding one of the butterfly screens centering it on the top of the mushroom cap. Using the Gray mix, screen the butterfly. Repeat on the opposite side of the cap.
Next using the other butterfly, center between the other butterfly and screen this butterfly and then repeat on the opposite side. Place the screens immediately in water after you have used the screen to prevent the color to dry in the screen.
Using a AB705 #5 Round apply OS435 Dark Yellow to the yellow butterflies. Allow to dry!
Using a AB709 3/8 Angular Shader, shade the yellow butterflies with OS438 Orange Peel.
Using a AB705 #5 Round apply OS457 Medium Blue to the blue butterflies. Allow to dry!
Using a AB709 3/8 Angular Shader, shade the blue butterflies with OS459 Bright Blue. Allow to dry!
On a paper plate. mix some OS476 Black with some AC310 Silkscreen Medium and mix well with a Palette Kinfe to the consistency of Peanut Butter or Toothpaste. Push the mix in a puddle.
Align one of the butterfly screens back over the area that was screened, hold in place and screen the OS476 Black mix starting from the center out. You may have to clean the screen between applications. Allow the screen to dry between cleanings.
Repeat for the other butterfly screen. Place the screens immediately in water after you have used the screen to prevent the color to dry in the screen and clean.
Using the end of a brush handle add dots of OS431 White on the ends of the yellow butterfly wings.
Put some AS964 No Fire Snow into a small cup, add some OS487 Olive Moss, then add a few drops of OS471 Medium brown to make a Green Brown moss color.
Using a DB804 #3 Flat, stipple the Green Brown mix to the tip of the Mushroom cap and around the bottom of the stem to simulate moss growing.
Streak some OS 487 Olive Moss in between the moss mix to simulate dome grass growing.
Using the end of a brush handle, add dot cluster of OS435 Dark Yellow petals and OS571 Curry in the centers. Allow to dry!
Using a AB710 ¾ Flat Shader apply 2 coats of AC502 Matte Sealer to both the cap and stem of the mushroom. If the sealer is applied to thick it can turn milky. If needed add a bit of water. Allow to dry!
DO NOT FIRE!
Additional Adaptations & Tips if needed.
Make sure that you mix the AC310 Silkscreen Medium with the product of choice well.
A Palette Knife works best to mix the Medium and the color together.
Do not add any water to the color mix. If the color mix is too thin, add a small amount of more Medium or if to think add some more color product.
Make sure to clean the screen after use. You do not want the color mix to dry in the screen.
The easiest way to clean the screen is to place it into a container of water that is larger than the screen. You do not want to jam the screen into a container that is too small, it adds a lot of wrinkles to the screen.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Center the mushroom top on the banding wheel.
Place some of the following colors on a plate: SC097 Cant-elope; SC102 Just Peachy; SC055 Yella Bout It.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan Brush, starting at the top of the mushroom, apply 2-3 coats of SC055 Yella Bout It, coming down about 1/3rd of the way while spinning the banding wheel. Next apply SC102 Just Peachy about 2/3rds of the way down. Finally apply SC097 Cant-elope to the final third of the way down towards the bottom of the mushroom. Allow to dry.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan Brush, apply 3 coats of SC097 Cant-elope to the inside of the mushroom top. Allow to dry.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan Brush, Apply 1 coat of SC080 Basketball to the top textured section of the mushroom stem. Wipe back with a damp sponge leaving the color in the crevices. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 coats of SC097 Cant-elope to textured part of the stem. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan Brush, apply 3 coats of SP254 Speckled Vanilla Dip to the rest of the stem. Allow to dry!
Cut out the Flower, Lady Bug, Butterfly, and a section of the Grass Silkscreen.
On a glazed tile, place a small puddle of NTBR Clear One. To this add a small amount of Jell Food Coloring and a few pinches of AC310 Silkscreen Medium and mix well with a Palette Knife to the consistency of Peanut Butter or Toothpaste. Push the mix in a puddle.
Starting with the Grass silkscreen, apply to the bottom of the stem going all the way around then to the bottom edge of the mushroom top.
Next, apply the flower centering it around the top in 3 places followed by the butterfly’s and the lady bugs. Also, the tall flower on the stem. Make sure to clean the silkscreens, do not allow color to dry in them. Allow to dry.
Using a brush for the size of the area, apply 2 coats of each color to the following areas: Flower – SC023 Jack O’Lantern, Center SC024 Dandelion; Lady Bug – SC073 Candy Apple Red; Butterfly – SC011 Blue Yonder, high light with some SC076 Carra-bien Blue: Leaves – top part SC027 Sour Apple, lower part SC052 Toad-ily Green. Grass- using a DB804 #3 stipple the area with SC043 Lettuce Alone.
On a glazed tile mix some SC026 Green Thumb with some AC310 Silkscreen Medium and mix well with a Palette Knife to the consistency of Peanut Butter or Toothpaste. Push the mix in a puddle.
Align the grass screen back over the area that was screened before on both the top and stem. Apple the SC026 Green Thumb mix. You may have to clean the screen between applications. Allow the screen to dry between cleanings.
On a glazed tile mix some SC015 Tuxedo with some AC310 Silkscreen Medium and mix well with a Palette Knife to the consistency of Peanut Butter or Toothpaste. Push the mix in a puddle.
Align the other screens and screen each with the black mix. You may have to clean the screen between applications. Allow to dry!
Using the end of a brush handle add dots of SC011 Blue Yonder, SC016 Cotton Tail and SC055 Yella Bout it in the grass areas to create small flowers. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan Brush, apply 1 thin coat of NTBR Clear on to each piece. Be careful when brushing the clear glaze not to smear the SC015 Tuxedo. Allow to dry!
Wipe down bisque pieces with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Apply two coats of SW106 Alabaster with a RB144 #4 Soft Fan brush to the face of the plate.
Shake the remaining glaze colors well and pour each into a section of the paint pouring cup.
Pour out about half the paint pouring cup onto the face of the plate and tip/turn until the face of the plate is covered.
Using the remaining glaze in the pouring cup, pour the glaze over the whole vase. Excess glaze poured off the plate may be used to fill in any uncovered areas on the vase.
Allow glazes to dry.
Wipe back any glaze that may have gotten on the bottom of the pieces using a damp sponge.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 2 coats of EG005 Black Engobe to the outside, bottom, and handle of the mug. Apply using a RB140 #8 Soft Fan brush.
After applying the Engobe fire the piece to Cone 04.
Apply 3 coats of SP209 Speckled Jaded to the inside of the mug. Apply with a RB140 #8 Soft Fan brush.
Mix a 1:1 ratio of SP209 Speckled Jaded and SW420 White Melt Gloop.
Apply 3 to 4 coats going halfway down the mug and handle, making sure to really build up the bottom edge of the glaze line. Apply with a RB140 #8 Soft Fan brush.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 3 coats of EG006 Sparkle Black Engobe to the outside, bottom, and handle of the mug. Apply with a RB140 #8 Soft Fan brush.
When the shine is gone, use a paper napkin to buff the EG006 Sparkle Black Engobe to achieve more sparkles.
After applying the Engobe fire the piece to Cone 04.
Apply 3 coats of SC015 Tuxedo to the inside of the mug. Apply with a RB140 #8 Soft Fan brush.
Mix a 1:1 ratio of CG753 Sassy Orange and SW420 White Melt Gloop.
Apply 3 to 4 coats going halfway down the mug and handle, making sure to really build up the bottom edge of the glaze line. Apply with a RB140 #8 Soft Fan brush.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 3 coats of EG005 Black Engobe to the outside, bottom, and handle of the mug. Apply using a RB140 #8 Soft Fan brush.
After applying the Engobe fire the piece to Cone 04.
Apply 3 coats of SC015 Tuxedo to the inside of the mug. Apply with a RB140 #8 Soft Fan brush.
Mix a 1:1 ratio of CG1011 Frosted Berries and SW420 White Melt Gloop.
Apply 3 to 4 coats going halfway down the mug and handle, make sure to really build up the bottom edge of the glaze line. Apply with a RB140 #8 Soft Fan brush.
Wipe down bisque pieces with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Using the RB144 #4 Soft Fan brush, apply three coats of FN304 Black Velvet to the inside of the mug, the top 1” of the outside of the mug, the center face of the plate, and the outside of the bowl, including the bottom of the pieces.
Apply two coats of SP286 Speckled Old Lace to the outside of the mug, inside of the bowl, and rim of the plate, avoiding the matte black.
To create the animal print, use two coats of SC105 Tic-Tac-Turquoise, a RB106 #6 Script Liner brush, and the ‘1-1-2’ formula: 1 large wonky “C” shape, followed by one medium shaped “C” or filled in blob, followed by two smaller blob dots. Continue until the space is filled. Add more dots/blobs as needed.
Wipe down bisque pieces with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Using the RB144 #4 Soft Fan brush, apply three coats of SW140 Black Matte to the inside of the mug, the top 1” of the outside of the mug, the center face of the plate, and the outside of the bowl.
Apply two coats of EG005 Black Engobe to the back of the plate, foot of the mug, and foot of the bowl.
Apply two coats of SP286 Speckled Old Lace to the outside of the mug, inside of the bowl, and rim of the plate, avoiding the matte black.
To create the animal print, use two coats of SC105 Tic-Tac-Turquoise, a RB106 #6 Script Liner brush, and the ‘1-1-2’ formula: 1 large wonky “C” shape, followed by one medium shaped “C” or filled in blob, followed by two smaller blob dots. Continue until the space is filled. Add more dots/blobs as needed.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, basecoat the bunny head with OS489 Saddle Brown.Allow to dry!
Using a DB803 #8 Round, drybrush the bunny head with OS471 Medium Brown, then with OS467 Light Brown. Do not wash the brush between colors.Just go from one color to the next that are in the same tones. Highlight the bunny head with OS432 Ivory, then some OS431 White.
Using a DB803 #8 Round, drybrush the bunny cheeks and muzzle with OS432 Ivory the with OS431 White.
Using a DB803 #8 Round, drybrush inside the bunny’s ears, cheeks and nose by picking up some OS597 Rich Peach and some OS431 White on the brush at the same time making the peach lighter.If needed add a bit more OS431 White.
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader and an AB 705 #5 Round, basecoat the bow with OS564 Pansy.Allow to dry!
Using a DB803 #8 Round, drybrush the bow with OS591 Dusty Violet then OS452 Purple.Highlight with OS450 Lilac and some OS431 White.
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader and an AB 705 #5 Round, basecoat the collar with OS558 Mimi Pink.Allow to dry!!
Using a DB803 #8 Round, drybrush the collar with OS444 Light Pink, then with OS589 Pink, and then some OS431 White.
Using an AB705 #5 Round, basecoat the eyes with OS431 White.Allow to dry!!
Using an AB705 #5 Round, apply OS457 Medium Blue for the iris of the eyes, shade the iris using an AB709 3/8 Angular Shader with OS459 Bright Blue.
Using an AB705 #5 Round, apply OS476 Black to the pupil of the eyes. Allow to dry!!Add a highlight of OS431 White to the eyes.
Using an AB702 10/0 Liner, outline the eyes and add eyelashes with OS476 Black.
Using an AB702 10/0 Liner, paint stripes on the bow with OS431 White.
Using a Stylus Tool, add dots on the collar with OS431 White and OS564 Pansy.Allow to dry!!
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, apply 2 light coats of AS954 Matte Brush-on-Sealer to the whole piece. Allow to dry!!
Using an AB705 #5 Round, apply 2 coats of AS953 Gloss Brush-on-Sealer to the eyes.Allow to dry!
Using an AB702 10/0 Liner, apply 2 coats of SG880 Crystal Brush -on-Glitter to the stripes on the bow and the dots on the collar.
Allow to dry completely. DO NOT Fire!!
Tree Ring
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of SC002 Melon-choly to the tree ring.Allow to slightly dry.With a damp sponge wipe back the color leaving it in the deep crevices.Allow to dry!
Using a CB602 #2 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SC002 Melon-choly to all the wells in the tree ring.
In a cup, mix 2 parts of FN049 Flamingo with 4 parts NTBR Clear One.Mix well!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of the mix to the whole tree ring.Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 3 coats of EG005 Black Engobe to the outside, bottom, and handle of the mug. Apply using a RB140 #8 Soft Fan brush.
After applying the Engobe fire the piece to Cone 04.
Apply 3 coats of SC015 Tuxedo to the inside of the mug. Apply with a RB140 #8 Soft Fan brush.
Mix a 1:1 ratio of S2708 Oriental Carmel and SW420 White Melt Gloop.
Apply 3 to 4 coats going halfway down the mug and handle, making sure to really build up the bottom edge of the glaze line. Apply with a RB140 #8 Soft Fan brush.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipebisqueto remove any dust.
Apply 3 coats of FN009 Black to the back of the plate then apply 2 coats to the top of the plate. Apply with a CB618 Fan Brush.
Apply 2 coats of EL117 Waterfall to the top of the plate. Apply with a CB618 Fan Brush.
With a round sponge on a stick apply 2 coats of dots of PC601 ClearCascade, make sure the dots are close together. Where there is blank space between the dots apply 1 coats of smaller dots with a CB106 Script Liner.
Fire to cone 06.
Inspired by Kathy McGuire’s Frozen Pond technique.
Begin with a tile fired to cone 04 bisque. Lightly moisten a clean sponge and wipe the bisque to remove any dust.
Using a pencil, lightly sketch a scribble monster design, keeping the body large enough to cover most of the tile. Add expressive eyes and a mouth, then draw a horizontal line near the bottom of the tile to separate the foreground from the background.
Use Black Licorice French Dimensions to outline your pencil design. Apply generously so the French Dimensions appear raised and very dimensional. Allow to dry completely.
Using a script liner brush (you can use a liner brush for tight spaces if needed), apply 3 generous coats of Sunkissed to the background. Do not apply this color below the horizontal line you drew.
Using a script liner brush, puddle or pool a generous amount of Purple Reign to the bottom half of the monster body, and puddle or pool Monet’s Pond to the top half of the monster’s body.
Try to avoid the eyes or mouth area.
The French Dimension lines will act as a dam to keep the Jungle Gems glaze contained within the monster body.
Using a clean brush, gently blend the two colors together with back-and-forth strokes, leaving the top ¼ and bottom ¼ of the monster undisturbed. This will create a blend or an intermediate color.
Use a liner brush to carefully work glaze up next to the French Dimensions lines where needed.
Using the script liner brush, apply puddle Cloverfield to the base of the tile up to the Sunkissed to represent the foreground.
Using a script liner or detail liner, apply 2 coats of Cotton Tail to the eyes and teeth.
Wipe down bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
Using a pencil, lightly sketch out the sun and moon combo.
Using a AB701 1/0 Detail brush, follow the sketched lines with AC302 Wax Resist.
Apply two coats of EG006 Sparkle Black Engobe to the whole outside of the cup and handle, avoiding the sun/moon. Use the RB106 #6 Script Liner brush to outline the sun/moon, and the CB604 #4 Soft Fan brush to fill out the rest of the cup.
Using the AB701 1/0 Detail brush, apply two thick coats of SC006 Sunkissed to the sun side of the face and alternating every other sun spike around the outside.
Using the AB701 1/0 Detail brush, apply two thick coats of SC105 Tic-Tac-Turquoise to the moon side and remaining spikes around the outside.
Create random stars around the mug with the AB701 1/0 Detail brush and AC302 Wax Resist.
Fill in the stars with two thick coats of SP286 Speckled Old Lace using the AB701 1/0 Detail brush.
Wax lines around the bottom and top of the mug to create a foot and lip line of glaze using the RB106 #6 Script Liner brush.
Fill in the lines from step 9 with two thick coats of SP2105 Speckled Tic-Tac-Turquoise using the RB106 #6 Script Liner brush.
Using the CB604 #4 Soft Fan brush, apply two coats of SP286 Speckled Old Lace to the inside of the mug.
Begin by wiping down the bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dirt/dust.
When the plate is dry, transfer the pattern using the AC230 Clay Carbon Paper and a pen.
Fill in the following areas with three coats of the following colors:
Elephant adornments: SP289 Speckled Cutie Pie Coral for the main parts of the adornments and accents of SP2105 Speckled Tic-Tac-Turquoise for the trim and dots. Using the CB106 #6 Script Liner brush.
Elephant Body: EL146 Raincloud on the body and EL101 Oyster Shell on the tusks and toes. Using the CB106 #6 Script Liner brush.
Background: SP286 Speckled Old Lace. Use the CB106 #6 Script Liner brush to outline the elephant, and the RB144 #4 Sot Fan brush to fill in the rest of the background.
Back of plate: EL101 Oyster Shell using the RB144 #4 Soft Fan brush.
Carefully outline all of the colors and line work with a RB110 10/0 Detail Liner brush and SC015 Tuxedo.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan brush, apply 2 coats of SC051 Poo Bear to the whole body except for the nose, chest, and mouth. Apply an additional one coat to the eyes using an AB701 1/0 Detail brush.
Apply 3 coats of SC086 Old Lace to the mouth and chest using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan brush.
Apply 2 coats of EL212 Spotted Walnut over SC051 Poo Bear on the whole body, except for the eyes, nose, and chest. Apply with a CB604 #4 Soft Fan brush.
Apply SG401 Black Designer Liner to outline and fill in the mouth, nose, eyes, and tip of the tail.
At random, apply lines of SG405 Green Designer Liner and SG409 Bright Green Designer Liner coming up from the bottom to create grass. Apply one coat.
Apply 3 to 4 small dots near each other to make flower petals on top of the grass, using one coat of SG408 Orange Designer Liner and SG410 Bright Blue Designer Liner. In the middle of each flower, apply one dot of SG407 Yellow Designer Liner.
Apply 2 coats of S2101 Crystal Clear brushing glaze to the face, grass, tail, and the bottom of the cat using the CB604 #4 Soft Fan brush.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
With a pencil, draw the head and neck of a giraffe in the middle of the platter.
Apply SC046 Rawhide on the giraffe’s head. Apply 3 coats using a CB106 #6 Script Liner brush. Do not apply to the neck.
Apply SW128 Cordovan on the giraffe’s neck. Apply 3 coats using a CB106 #6 Script Liner brush. Do not apply to the head.
From the antlers down to the mouth, apply one coat of SC025 Crackerjack Brown in a dapping motion using a dry DB804 #3 Flat brush.
Outline the eye and fill in the mane with 3 coats of SC025 Crackerjack Brown. Apply with a AB701 1/0 Detail liner.
On the top of the antlers, eyeballs, inside the ears, and nose apply 3 coats of SC034 Down To Earth. Apply with a AB701 1/0 Detail liner.
Apply SW131 Birch over top of SW128 Cordovan on only the neck. Apply 3 coats using a CB106 #6 Script Liner brush.
Apply 2 coats of SC025 Crackerjack Brown for the Giraffe’s spots on the cheek and going a little down the neck with slight overlapping. Apply with a CB106 #6 Script Liner brush.
Apply 3 coats of SW408 White Flux for the Giraffe’s spots on his neck, slightly overlapping the SC025 Crackerjack Brown spots. Apply with a CB106 #6 Script Liner brush.
Outline the whole Giraffe including the smile, nose, ears, eyelashes, and wrinkles. Apply with a SG406 Brown designer liner, one coat.
For the background of the giraffe, apply 3 coats of SW136 Weathered Blue and then 3 coats of SW105 Frost Blue over top. Apply with a CB106 #6 Script Liner brush.
For the rim of the platter, apply 3 coats of SW128 Cordovan and 3 coats of SW131 Birch. In between each notch, apply 2 coats of SW408 White Flux.
On the back of the platter, apply 3 coats of SW131 Birch with a CB618 #8 Soft fan brush.
Wipe off any glaze on the bottom rim to ensure it does not stick to the shelf.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 3 coats of SC016 Cotton Tail to the outside, bottom, handle, and inside of the mug. Apply with a RB144 #4 Soft Fan brush.
Using a pencil, draw on large drips coming from the top, then add more drips inside the large drips until you fill it in completely.
In any order apply 3 coats SP286 Speckled Old Lace, SP289 Speckled Cutie Pie Coral, and SP2105 Speckled Tic-Tac-Turquoise in each drip. Apply with an AB704 #3 Round brush.
Apply tape in vertical and horizontal lines between and under the drips.
Apply SC105 Tic-Tac-Turquoise, 3 coats in between the lines of tape, apply with an AB704 #3 Round brush.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Draw a large rectangle in the middle of the plate. At the top and sides of the rectangle, add rectangles and round lines to make it look more like a house.
Add 3 horizontal rectangles on top of each other in the middle of the large rectangle.
The top rectangle will be filled in with 3 coats of SP2105 Speckled Tic-Tac-Turquoise and will have the word “YOU” in the middle with 3 coats of SC286 Old Lace. Apply with an AB704 #3 Round brush.
The middle rectangle will be filled in with SP286 Speckled Old Lace and will have the word “BELONG” with 3 coats of SC089 Cutie Pie Coral. Apply with an AB704 #3 Round brush.
The bottom rectangle will be filled in with SP289 Speckled Cutie Pie Coral and will have the work “HERE” with 3 coats of SC105 Tic-Tac-Turquoise. Apply with an AB704 #3 Round brush.
With a pencil make as many small squares and rectangles as you’d like inside of the lager rectangle to fill in the rest of the space. Then fill in all shapes with SC086 Old Lace, SC089 Cutie Pie Coral, and SC105 Tic Tac Turquoise. Apply 3 coats with an AB704 #3 Round brush.
Fill in every shape with stripes, dots, tress, hearts, or any designs that will fit into the shapes. Apply 3 coats of SP286 Speckled Old Lace, SP289 Cutie Pie Coral, SP2105 Tic-Tac-Turquoise using an AB701 1/0 Detail brush.
On the outside of the large rectangle apply dots of SC086 Old Lace, SC089 Cutie Pie Coral, SC105 Tic-Tac-Turquoise, SP286 Speckled Old Lace, SP289 Speckled Cutie Pie Coral, SP2105 Speckled Tic-Tac-Turquoise. Apply one coat with an AB704 #3 Round brush.
With SG402 White Designer Liner, outline every shape in the large rectangle and the words. Apply one coat.
Apply 2 coats of S2102 Crystal Clear Brushing to the entire front and back of the plate using the RB144 #4 Soft Fan brush.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
In a small cup, place 2 teaspoons of UG057 Spice Brown and 1 teaspoon of UG030 Sand. Mix well.
Using a CB425 #1/2” Oval, apply the UG-mix to the fur areas of the bunny heads, make sure to get into the crevices. Allow to dry!
With a damp Synthetic Sponge, wipe the UG- mix off the fur of the bunny heads leaving the color in the crevices. If you wipe out too much color just reapply and wipe. Allow to dry!
Left bunny head collar, using a CB406 #6 Pointed Round, apply 3 coats of UG216 Peach. The bow, apply 3 coats of UG082 Tuscan Turquoise. Apply dots of UG082 to the collar then a dot of UG051 China White in the center of it.
Middle bunny head collar, using a CB406 #6 Pointed Round, apply 3 coats of UG222 Soft Yellow. The bow, apply 3 coats of UG092 Lilac. Apply dots of UG092 Lilac to the collar then a dot of UG051 China White in the center of it.
Right Bunny Head collar, using a CB406 #6 Pointed Round, apply 3 coats of UG068 Apple Green. The bow, apply 3 coats of UG203 Squash Yellow. Apply a dots of UG203 Squash Yellow to the collar then a dot of UG051 China White in the center of it.
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 3 coats of UG215 Blush to the noses and inside the ears.
Using a CB406 #6 Pointed Round, apply 3 coats of UG051 China White to the muzzle.
Left bunny, using a AB708 3/8 Angular Shader, shade the collar with EZ030 Rose. Shade the bow with EZ027 Blue Turquoise.
Middle bunny, using a AB708 3/8 Angular Shader, shade the collar with UG087 Regal Purple. Shade the collar with EZ034 Orange.
Right bunny, using a AB708 3/8 Angular Shader, shade the collar with EZ 028 Leaf Green. Shade the bow with EZ058 Poppy Orange.
Using a AB708 3/8 Angular Shader, shade the ears and nose’s with EZ030 Rose.
Using a silk sponge, sponge the cheeks lightly with UG215 Blush.
Using a CB425 ½” Oval, drybrush the bunny’s body a couple of coats with UG030 Sand. Allow to dry.
Using a CB460 #6 Pointed Round, highlight the edge of the bunny’s ears and around the eyes with UG051 China White.
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 2 coats of UG051 China White to the eyes. Allow to dry!
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 2 coats of EZ031 To the iris of the eyes. Add a dot of UG051 China White for the highlight in the eyes. Allow to dry!
Using a AB708 3/8 Angular Shader, shade the iris’s with EZ035 Dutch Blue.
Using a CB110 #10/0 Liner, outline the eyes and add eye lashes to all the eyes. Allow to dry!
At this point you could fire the piece to shelf cone 04 to set the colors or continue to the glazing.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of NTBR Clear Glaze to the entire piece. Be careful when applying the first coat not to smear the colors. Allow to dry.
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.
Additional Adaptations & Tips if needed.
EZ Stroke’s are intense pigment and high-definition Translucent Underglazes. Perfect for brushwork and antiquing, helping you achieve the look of watercolor or detailed shading.
EZ Strokes can be used on clay, greenware, bisque or on unfired glazes such as Stroke & Coat, Foundations, Stoneware gloss glazes. Also, can be applied on top of Fundamental Underglazes.
EZ Strokes und used on clay, greenware, bisque or on Fundamentals fires matte. Clear glaze can be used to have a gloss finish.
EZ Strokes can be used to tint slip to make colored slips and used to tint clear glaze to create transparent colored glazes like Foundations Sheer’s
Challenge students to become texture adventurers! By pressing, rolling, or stamping found textures into clay, they’ll transform everyday objects into surfaces full of character.
Students will use textured slabs to build a small sculpture or vessel, celebrating the beauty of patterns.
Collect found textures—leaves, bark, lace, burlap, coins, or other classroom-safe objects.
Sketch a quick design showing placement of textures and slab sections.
Roll a slab of clay to about ¼” thickness.
Press textures firmly into the clay surface.
Cut shapes or panels from the textured slabs.
Assemble into a small vessel, box, or abstract sculpture using scoring and slipping.
Smooth edges and refine form.
Allow to dry, bisque fire, glaze, and glaze fire.
The challenge: Their final clay piece must use only textures pressed from these finds—no added drawn lines or smooth surfaces. (This constraint pushes creativity and problem-solving.)
Why Stroke & Coat Glazes Art Perfect for Textures Sculptures
Stroke & Coat works beautifully on textured clay, delivering bold color and crisp details. Because Stroke & Coat colors can be mixed together, students can invent their own colors—making every piece as unique as the artist who created it.
Variations & Extensions
Create a collaborative “texture wall” by combining slabs from the whole class.
Assign themes: “natural textures,” “urban textures,” or “fabric textures.”
Pair with a sketchbook exercise where students make rubbings of textures they find before pressing them into clay.
Form
Clay body of choice
Colors
Stroke & Coat
Miscellaneous Accessories
Rolling Pin or slab roller
Assorted found textures or texture plates (natural or household items)
Invite students to sculpt a small, lidded box that hides something special inside. Whether it is a symbolic treasure or a keepsake, these boxes combine function with imagination. The challenge: design a container with personality while making sure the lid fits snugly!
Great For
Ceramics classrooms exploring form & function
Camps or studio workshops with storytelling themes
Projects about symbolism, identity, or “hidden meanings”
Simple Directions
Begin by creating a small base form (pinch pot, slab cube, or cylinder).
Construct a fitted lid (flat, domed, or sculpted). Test fit and adjust while clay is soft.
Add surface textures, carved designs, or sculpted details that hint at what the box might “hold.”
Optional: sculpt a small clay object to place inside.
Dry completely, bisque fire, glaze, and glaze fire.
Design Plan: Each student designs a lidded box that tells a story. The outside can hint at what’s inside—through texture, symbols, or sculpted details—while the inside stays a private space for something meaningful. Tip: Skip the glaze where the lid and base touch so they will still fit together nicely after firing.
Mayco Glaze Suggestions: Mayco’s Fundamentals Underglazes are ideal for this project and your classroom. They provide solid coverage on wet clay, greenware, or bisque and can be left matte or finished with a clear glaze for shine. Blend, mix, or thin them for watercolor effects. They are perfect for creating contrast on the Hidden Compartment Box. Matte areas enhance the mystery, while glossy sections add polish. Class packs of our most popular colors are available.
Variations & Extensions
Have students sculpt a matching object that fits inside their box.
Explore cultural traditions of lidded vessels (Japanese tea caddies, African reliquary boxes, etc.).
Create a collaborative “Cabinet of Curiosities” display with all the boxes arranged together.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 3 coats of SC016 Cotton Tail to the belly and face. Apply with a CL840 Soft Fan.
Allow time to dry then outline the snowflakes with SC101 Spruce It Up, apply 3 coats with an AB701 Detail Brush.
Repeat step 3 with SC027 Sour Apple, outlining SC101 Spruce It Up.
Take either a Dotting Gyre or a Q tip to make different sized dots on the belly. Apply SC027 Sour Apple, SC011 Blue Yonder, and SC101 Spruce It Up. Apply one coat.
For the eyes apply SC011 Blue Yonder with either a Dotting Gyre or a Q tip. Apply one coat.
Apply SC023 Jack O Lantern to the beak and feet. Apply 3 coats with an AB701 Detail Brush.
Apply SC011 Blue Yonder and SC027 Sour Apple on every other notch on the scarf. Then apply SC101 Spruce It Up to the fringe at the end of the scarf. Apply 3 coats of each glaze with an AB701 Detail Brush.
Apply SG305 Spearmint to the entire body excluding the face and belly. Apply 2 to 3 coats using a CB840 Soft Fan Brush.
Allow time to dry then fire it to cone 06.
Additional Adaptations & Tips if needed
If glaze gets into the holes, use a toothpick to clean them out. Easier to clean when glaze is still wet.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the CB604 #4 Soft Fan brush, apply 2 coats of EG006 Sparkle Black Engobe to the rim and bottom of the bottom of the plate. Gently rub the Sparkle Black Engobe between coats, revealing the sparkles.
Fill the AC220 Detail Bottles with SW503 Orange Gloss, SW506 Bright Blue Gloss, and SW510 Blue Gloss.
Apply a pattern of dots around the rim of the plate. Apply a second coat of doats for more dimension.
Brush 2 coats of SW510 Blue Gloss on the center of the plate. Allow to dry between coats.
Randomly brush a thick coat of SW503 Orange Gloss and SW506 Bright Blue Gloss on the center of the plate. While wet, take a sponge and dab the center of the plate, removing some of the SW503 Orange Gloss and SW506 Bright Blue Gloss, revealing the SW510 Blue Gloss glaze.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Fill AC220 Detailer and Tip Bottle with SW223 Milk Glass.
Using the Detail Bottle, apply SW223 Milk Glass in a V pattern in horizontal row on the outside of the Latte Cup. Glaze another row of the V pattern directly below the first row leaving some space in between. Repeat 3 times for a total of 5 rows.
Brush 3 coats of SW224 Tropical Teal on the inside of the Latte Cup. Allow to dry between coats.
Brush 3 coats of SW224 Tropical Teal on the outside of the Latte Cup, receding the coats from the bottom. Allow to dry between coats.
Apply 3 coats of Marine Blue or Fire Engine Red in bands to the top 1/2”, the first indent, second indent, and bottom 1/2” . You can glaze the bottom of the piece.
Apply 3 coats of Snow Gems to the unglazed bands.
Top to bottom:
SG303 Citrus Snow Gem
SG304 Berry Snow Gem
SG305 Spearmint Snow Gem
Apply 2-3 coats of SW001 Stoneware Clear to the inside of the vase. You can water down the clear to roll on the inside to evenly coat.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Brush 1 coat of EG006 Sparkle Black Engobe on the bottom 1/3 of the mug’s outside. Allow to dry.
Using your finger, gently rub/buff the EG006 Sparkle Black Engobe, exposing the sparkles.
Repeat steps 1 and 2.
Brush 5 coats of SC006 Sunkissed on the top 2/3 of the mug’s outside.
At approximately 1 ½ inches below the top of the mug, brush 2 coats of SC050 Orange Ya Happy creating a band approximately 1 ½ inches wide. The SC006 Sunkissed should be exposed above and below the band of SC050 Orange Ya Happy.
Brush 1 coat of SC073 Candy Apple Red over the bottom exposed band of SC006 Sunkissed. The SC073 Candy Apple Red should touch the edge of the SC050 Orange Ya Happy and the edge of the EG006 Sparkle Black Engobe.
Brush 3 coats of SW515 Aqua Gloss on the inside of the mug. Allow to dry between coats.
Brush 1 coat of SW515 Aqua Gloss on the outside of the mug’s top 2/3 covering the Stroke and Coats, leaving the EG006 Sparkle Black Engobe exposed.
With low-fire terra cotta pots from garden centers, you will use the natural color of the pot. If you are working with stoneware, you can color the background with Terracotta Engobe. Apply three coats to the entire surface, except the bottom. Apply only two coats to the bottom. Applying more than two coats can cause sticking to kiln washed shelves.
Determine the design and lightly sketch outlines if desired.
Determine what colors you want on your cactus or mushrooms. Use the Snow Gems as they are designed, or you can tint them with Stroke & Coat colors. Mix small amounts on the tile. Only a few drops of Stroke & Coat are needed to tint. Remember, the base of Snow Gems is white, so it will always lighten the color you add to tint.
Apply two to three coats of Snow Gems in the colors of your choice to the cactus or mushroom designs. Allow to dry.
Use any of the Stroke & Coat colors to outline and shade the cactus or mushrooms. Notice how Stroke & Coat colors can be used right on top of Snow Gems with no fear of movement. Use a damp brush to blend any harsh edges of color. Add dots or patterns. Use the Just Froggy and detail liner to add come blades of grass coming up from the bottom.
The top clay pot has drips of color coming down from the top. This was done by dabbing large amounts of Stroke & Coat colors of choice to the top edge and allowing it to run down before firing. Stroke & Coat does not move on low fire bodies and will have slight movement on stoneware.
Dilute a small amount of Tuxedo with water and use the stiff fan brush to speckle the surface of the pots.
Fire to cone 06.
Additional Adaptations and Tips:
The pots shown in this method are clay pots purchased at a garden center and were low fired to cone 06. This same method could be done on stoneware shapes as well.
Form
Terra cotta pots from a garden center
Optional stoneware shape of choice
Colors
SG303 Spearmint
SG304 Berry
SG305 Citrus
SC008 Just Froggy
SC074 Hot Tamale
SC006 Sunkissed
SC014 Java Bean
SC097 Cant-elope
SC011 Blue Yonder
SC008 Just Froggy
SC015 Tuxedo
SC027 Sour Apple
NT-BR Clear One Brushing
EG007 Terracotta Engobe (if working with stoneware)
Begin by making three solid clay cylinders, each gradually smaller than the last to create the bodies of the sheep. Create a cylinder roughly a quarter the size of the largest cylinder to create the head of the biggest sheep. Repeat this process for the other two sheep.
Cut all cylinders in half and use the loop/carving tool to hollow out the bodies and heads of the sheep. Cover and set the excess clay aside. Score and slip all the cylinders back together, making sure to vent the parts by poking a hole between the attachment for the head and body, and another hole in the bottom of the belly of the sheep.
Roll coils about the thickness of your thumb and cut them to sizes to create the legs. Score and slip these to the bodies of the sheep.
Begin rolling small balls of clay from the excess that was set aside. Cut each ball in half and score and slip to the sheep to create the appearance of fluffy wool. Continue this process until the whole sheep is covered, leaving most of the face uncovered. If horns are desired, roll a thick tapering coil, and cut in half. Bend to shape and score and slip and attach to the head.
Allow sheep to fully dry and bisque fire to cone 04.
For the largest sheep: Apply three coats of SG305 Spearmint Snow Gem to the fluffy part of the body. Using a smaller brush, apply three coats of SC011 Blue Yonder to the legs, and three coats of SC027 Sour Apple to the face. Add three coats of SC015 Tuxedo to the hooves and horns.
For the medium sheep: Apply three coats of SG304 Berry Snow Gem to the fluffy part of the body. Using a smaller brush, apply three coats of SC073 Candy Apple Red to the legs, and three coats of SC033 Fruit of the Vine to the face. Add three coats of SC015 Tuxedo to the hooves.
For the smallest sheep: Apply three coats of SG303 Citrus Snow Gem to the fluffy part of the body. Using a smaller brush, apply three coats of SC077 Glo-worm to the legs, and three coats of SC075 Orange-a-Peel to the face. Add three coats of SC015 Tuxedo to the hooves.
Students will use textured slabs to build a small sculpture or vessel, celebrating the beauty of patterns.
Collect found textures—leaves, bark, lace, burlap, coins, or other classroom-safe objects.
Sketch a quick design showing placement of textures and slab sections.
Roll a slab of clay to about ¼” thickness.
Press textures firmly into the clay surface.
Cut shapes or panels from the textured slabs.
Assemble into a small vessel, box, or abstract sculpture using scoring and slipping.
Smooth edges and refine form.
Allow to dry, bisque fire, glaze, and glaze fire.
The challenge: Their final clay piece must use only textures pressed from these finds—no added drawn lines or smooth surfaces.(This constraint pushes creativity and problem-solving.)
Why Magic Metallics Are Perfect forTextured Sculptures:
Magic Metallicsare ideal for textured ceramic projects because they highlight and enhance surface details beautifully. Perfect for classroom use, these versatile, non-fired finishes can be applied to a variety of surfaces. Please note: Magic Metallics are for ornamental use only and are not dinnerware safe.Magic Metallics™ are water-based acrylics infused with finely ground metal particles, giving artwork an authentic metallic sheen and depth.
Variations & Extensions
Create a collaborative “texture wall” by combining slabs from the whole class.
Assign themes: “natural textures,” “urban textures,” or “fabric textures.”
Pair with a sketchbook exercise where students make rubbings of textures they find before pressing them into clay.
Form
Clay body of choice
Colors
Magic Metallics
Miscellaneous Accessories
Rolling Pin or slab roller
Assorted found textures or texture plates (natural or household items)
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply one coat of UG209 Jade to each section of the tree. Wipe back with a damp sponge leaving the color in the deep crevices. Do one section at a time. Allow to dry!
Using a CB425 ½” Oval, apply 3 coats of UG209 Jade to all the cup areas of the tree and to the bottom rim of the base. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN235 Celadon to each section of the tree and the base.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of S2101 Crystal Clear Brusing to each section of the tree and base and 2 coats to the star.
While the previous glazes are still damp, using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of SG202 White Cobblestone to the edges of all the tree branches.
Using a CB602 #2 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of AC302 Wax Resist to all areas of the SG202 White Cobblestone before the cobblestone dries. Wash the brush immediately.
Stilt and Fire to Cone 06/05.
Place some Fired Gold onto a glazed tile.
Using a OB916G #6 Oval Shader, apply Fired Gold to the star and the bottom rim of the tree base.
Stilt and Fire to cone 018.
Apply a heavy coat of AC501 Gloss Brush On Sealer to the Globe Lights then sprinkle with Clear Glass Glitter. Place into a piece of Styrofoam to dry.
When the globe lights are dry, glue into the tree top with glue of your choice.
Additional Adaptations & Tips
Make sure to shake all the glazes and underglaze well.
Applying a coat of Wax Resist over the Cobblestone helps slow down the drying and helps prevent the glaze from popping off the piece.
The Foundations Sheer glazes allow the Fundamental Underglazes show through them.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a AB705#5 Round and AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, basecoat the main body of the donuts with OS471 Medium Brown. Allow to dry!
Using a DB801 #3 Round and DB808 #8 Round, drybrush the donut bodies OS467 Light Brown, then with OS493 Sandalwood. Highlight with some OS432 Ivory in the brush.
Using a AB709 3/8 Angular Shader, shade the deep crevices with OS489 Saddle Brown.
Using a DB801 #3 Round and DB808 #8 Round, drybrush the various donuts with the following colors.
Pink – basecoat with OS558 Miami Pink, drybrush with OS589 Pink, highlight with OS432 Ivory.
Yellow – Basecoat with OS434 Lemon Yellow, drybrush with OS433 Pale Yellow, Highlight with OS432 Ivory.
Purple –basecoat with OS452 Purple, drybrush with OS450 Lilac, highlight with OS432 Ivory.
Blue – basecoat with OS457 Medium Blue, drybrush with OS456 Baby Blue, Highlight with OS432 Ivory.
Green – basecoat with OS463 Medium Green, drybrush with OS556 Lemon Grass, Highlight with OS432 Ivory.
White – basecoat with OS432 Ivory, drybrush with OS431 White.
Using a AB702 #10/0 Liner, paint the donuts with jimmies (raised decorations on the piece) various colors of your choice.
Using a AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, basecoat the icing ant the bottom of the donuts with OS467 Light Brown, drybrush with OS432 Ivory then highlight with OS431 White.
Using a AB705#5 Round and AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, basecoat the basket base inside and out with OS471 Medium Brown. Allow to dry!
Using a DB801 #3 Round and DB808 #8 Round, drybrush the basket with OS 467 Light Brown then with OS493 Sandalwood followed by OS485 French Vanilla then highlight lightly with OS432 Ivory.
Using a DB804 #3 Flat, Highlight the edges of each weave section with OS471 Medium Brown. Allow to dry!
Using a AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, apply 2 light coats of AC502 Matte Brush On Sealer on both pieces. Thin slightly with some water and do not let it puddle in any of the crevices which can get milky.
Using a AB705 #5 Round, apply 2 coats of AC501 Gloss Brush On Sealer to the jimmies (raised decorations) on the donuts that have them.
Using a DB805 #3 Fan, apply 2-3 coats of SG880 Crystal Sparklers Brush On Glitter on all the donuts but not on the raised decorations on the piece that have them.
Apply 3-4 coats of SG880 Crystal Sparklers Brush On Glitter to all the Globe Lights. Allow to dry between each coat.
Apply Brush On Sealer toa attach and apply the fake sprinkles, confetti, and colored mini foam balls to the areas that you want them. Allow to dry!
Glue the glittered globe lights into the donut tree if there are holes for them.
Additional Adaptations & Tips
Make sure to shake the Bisque Stains well.
Drybrushing is using a dry brush. You wash the brush when you are done.
You do not want any moisture in the brush.
When drybrushing you can use paper towels, paper bags, denim material to wipe the color out of the brush.
Almost always when drybrushing, you use 3 shades of a color. A dark, a medium and a light. Then an off white or white to highlight without washing the brush.
On most pieces you want to use a Matte Sealer over the drybrushed areas to make it look soft. A Gloss Sealer takes the soft look away from the piece.
Gloss Sealer is good to use on eyes, noses or any other small areas that need to be glossy.
Form
Molds by Clay Magic Inc.
4498 Donut Tree
4446 Small Basket
Colors
OS431 White
OS432 Ivory
OS433 Pale Yellow
OS434 Lemon Peel
OS450 Lilac
OS452 Purple
OS456 Baby Blue
OS457 Medium Blue
OS463 Medium Green
OS467 Light Brown
OS471 Medium Brown
OS485 French Vanilla
OS493 Sandalwood
OS556 Lemon Grass
OS558 Miami Pink
OS589 Pink
SG880 Crystal Sparklers Brush On Glitter
Decorating Accessories
BT910 Synthetic Sponge
AB702 10/0 Liner
AB703 #3 Round
AB705 #5 Round
AB709 3/8 Angular Shader
AB710 ¾ Flat Shader
DB801 #3 Round
DB802 #5 Round
DB803 #8 Round
DB804 #3 Flat
DB805 #3 Fan
Miscellaneous Accessories
Water Bowl
Paper Towels
Desert Paper Plates
Small 2oz. Plastic Cups
Medium Globe Lights
Small Globe Lights
Glue of Choice
Fake sprinkles, confetti, and colored mini foam balls from Hobby Lobby, Michaels, Etsy
Non-Fired|Molds
409|408
58757
Winter Wood and Raspberry Mist Vase – Stoneware Starter Palette
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a RB144 #4 Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 coats of SW155 Winter Wood to the outside of your vase
Once dry, using a RB144 #4 Soft Fan Brush apply 2 coats of SW177 Raspberry Mist to the outside of your vase
Fire to cone 6
Additional Adaptations & Tips
If you would like to glaze the inside of your vase, pour some SW155 Winter Wood into a separate container and combine 1 part water to 4 parts glaze. Pour this mixture into the vase and then slowly pick up and rotate the vase to coat the entire inside. Pour any extra glaze back into the separate container.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Base (the bottom piece of the box)
With a mop brush, paint the entire bottom piece (inside and out, top and bottom) with 3 coats of Sea Green.
Keep coats even and a bit generous for solid color.
Lid: Underside (interior side of the top shell)
With a mop brush, paint 3 coats of Sea Green on the underside of the lid.
Lid: Segmented outer rim around the top of the shell
Using a mop brush, paint 3 coats of Sea Green on the outer segmented rim.
Make sure to paint the very edge of the lid to make sure that it meets or overlaps the coats on the underside.
Lid: Center/middle of the top shell
Using a mop brush, paint 3 coats of Ginger Root to the middle sections (inside of the rim painted step 4) of the top of the shell.
Make sure that the coats of Ginger Root touch the coats of Sea Green to ensure that there isn’t bare bisque showing after firing.
Shell Linework
Using Autumn in a writer bottle, add lines in each section of the middle part of the shell starting at the top of each section and streaking lines as shown as step 6 on the template. You will also add lines on top of the Sea Green that you painted around the top rim of the shell.
Using Copper Adventurine in a writer bottle, add lines to highlight the “top” portions of the shell sections (shown as step 7 on the template).
Using Cobblestone in a writer bottle, add lines to highlight the portions of each section as shown in step 8 on the template.
Finishing the bottom “body”
Using the writer bottle with Copper Adventurine, Make dots on the first couple of rows of textured “skin” on the front of the flippers, the nose and front part of the head. Add some lines on the base of the tail also.
Using Ginger Root in a writer bottle, make dots on the middle couple of rows of textured “skin” on the flippers, neck, and middle of the tail.
Using Autumn in a writer bottle, make dots on the back couple of rows of textured “skin” on the flippers, neck, and end of the tail.
Using Cobblestone in a writer bottle, make lines randomly on the head, flippers, and tail. Cobblestone will resemble the froth that the ocean creates, so use it sparingly.
Let dry overnight and fire to cone 06.
Dremel stilt marks and display!
Additional Adaptations & Tips
It is fun to overlap the Autumn and Copper Adventurine lines a little bit. It gives the piece a melty look.
Autumn on top of Sea Green will result in a blue-ish color. Copper Adventurine on top of Sea Green results in a rich brown color.
Thin brush strokes of Sea Green results in a brown undertone showing through. If you want your turtle to be more brown than green, use thinner coats of Sea Green. If you want your turtle to be more green, use thicker coats of Sea Green.
Form
C40541 Sea Turtle Box
Colors
EL130 Sea Green
EL145 Ginger Root
EL113 Autumn
EL121 Copper Adventurine
SG202 White Cobblestone
Decorating Accessories
Mop Brush
4 Writer Bottles (or small squeeze bottles with a small tip)
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Print off a small outline of a cat and the outline of a mountain that will be wide enough to across the plate. Cut the images out with scissors.
Apply SC099 Charming to the front and back of the plate. Apply 3 coats using a CB618 Soft Fan Brush. Allow time to dry.
Lay down the outline of the mountains slightly above the middle of the plate and use a damp sponge over the image to help it stick to the plate.
Repeat step 4 with the netting at the bottom of the plate and the cat will sit right above the netting.
Below the mountains use a sponge to apply 2 coats of SC092 Café Ole and 2 coats of SC039 Army Surplus. This will be applied over the cat and the netting.
Above the mountains, use a sponge to apply a fading sunset. Use SC042 Butter Me Up in the center right above the mountains, then apply SC097 Can’t Elope, SC002 Melon Choly and SC011 Blue Yonder around the rim of the plate. Apply 2 coats of each color.
Allow time to dry until the shine is gone from the glaze then remove the cat, mountains, and netting.
Fire to cone 06.
Form
MB102 Coupe Dinner Plate
Colors
SC002 Melon Choly
SC011 Blue Yonder
SC039 Army Surplus
SC042 Butter Me Up
SC092 Café Ole
SC097 Can’t Elope
SC099 Charming
Decorating Accessories
CB618 Fan Brush
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sponge
Water
Netting
Printed image of the outlining of a cat and mountains
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Draw an outline of a large butterfly in the middle of the bowl.
Dip your finger into SC015 Tuxedo and make one vertical line in the middle of the plate for the butterfly’s body, then with your finger, add one large dot on top of the line for the head. Apply one coat.
Still using SC015 Tuxedo, add 4 more lines coming out of the body, two at the top and two at the bottom for the butterfly wings. Apply one coat.
With your finger, apply 4 to 5 lines on each wing using SC030 Blue Dawn. Start from the outside of the wings and pull your finger in toward the body of the butterfly. Apply one coat.
Repeat step 4 with SC053 Purple Haze, overlapping SC030 Blue Dawn. Overlapping does not need to be perfect.
Repeat step 4 with SC017 Rosey Posey, overlapping SC053 Purple Haze. Overlapping does not need to be perfect.
Repeat step 4 with SC016 Cotton tail, this time starting in the middle of the butterfly wing.
On the rim of the bowl,apply 10 sets of 3 dots of SC053 Purple Haze. In-between those dots apply 2 dots of SC017 Rosey Posey or SC030 Blue Dawn. Apply one coat using your finger. This will be the caterpillars.
Use the very tip of your finger or your fingernails to make thinner lines for the antennas on all the caterpillars and butterfly. Apply one coat using SC015 Tuxedo.
Allow time to dry then apply 2 coats of S2101 Clear Glaze to the inside and outside of the bowl.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 3 coats of EG002 Speckled Buff to the inside and outside of the bowl, using a CB618 Fan Brush.
Draw an outline of a large butterfly in the middle of the bowl.
Dip your finger into SW508 Black Gloss and make one vertical line in the middle of the bowl for the body of the butterfly, then with your finger add one large dot on top for the head. Still using SW508 Black Gloss add 4 more lines coming from the body, two at the top and two at the bottom for the butterfly wings. Apply one coat.
With your finger apply 4 to 5 lines on each wing using SW252 Blue Opal. Start from the outside of the wings and pull your finger in toward the body of the butterfly. Apply one coat.
Repeat step 4 with SW134 Eggplant, overlapping SW252 Blue Opal. Overlapping does not need to be perfect.
Repeat step 4 with SW251 Pink Opal, overlapping SW134 Eggplant. Overlapping does not need to be perfect.
Repeat step 4 with SW214 Micro Pearl, this time starting in the middle of the butterfly wing.
On the rim of the bowl, apply 5 sets of 3 dots of SW134 Eggplant. In between those dots apply 2 dots of SW252 Blue Opal or SC251 Pink Opal. Apply one coat using your finger. This will be the caterpillars.
Use the very tip of your finger or your fingernails to make thinner lines for the antennas on all the caterpillars and butterfly. Apply one coat of SW508 Black Gloss.
Allow time to dry then apply SW001 Clear Glaze to the inside of the bowl. Apply 2 coats.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply FN031 Corn Flower Blue to the font and back of the plate. Apply 3 coats using a CB618 Fan Brush.
Put your safety glasses on and break off 2 of the prongs on the fork. Break the far right and far left side, leaving you with only 2 prongs in the middle.
Dip your fork into FN061 Ivory Speak and pull your fork from the middle to the rim, making a straight line. Repeat this going in a circle leaving the middle empty. Not all lines need to perfect or the same length. Apply one coat.
With just one tip of your fork add dots to the ends of each line using FN061 Ivory Speak. Apply one coat.
With just the tips of your fork add dots to the middle of the dandelion. Use FN061 Ivory Speak. Apply one coat.
With just one tip of your fork apply FN021 Olive Green in one line for the stem of dandelion. Use the same method to add a leaf onto the stem. Apply with one coat.
With just the tips of your fork add dots to the middle of dandelion. Use FN021 Olive Green. Apply one coat.
Start with a soft fired (cone 04) stoneware piece that you throw, handbuild, or buy.
Using your round brush, make swooping w’s of Light Flux in 3 coats in rows down your piece. Stop 2/3 of the way down.
Using your round brush, place dots of Stroke & Coat colors in the w’s, filling the space with 3 coats. The top row uses Ruby Slippers, the second row uses Pink-A-Boo and Cutie Pie Coral combined, the third row uses Cutie Pie Coral, the fourth row uses Rosey Posey, and the fifth row uses Cotton Tail. Let dry.
Using a fan brush, glaze the top 1/3 of the piece with 3 coats of Rose Quartz.
Using a fan brush, glaze the bottom 2/3 of the piece with 3 coats of Raspberry Mist.
Using a fan brush, glaze the bottom 1/3 of the piece with Peppered Plum.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply EG006 Sparkle Black Engobe to the back of the plate. Apply 3 coats using a RB140 Soft Fan. Wait for it to dry until the shine is gone and use a paper towel to softly rub the surface to let the sparkles come though.
Apply SW506 Bight Blue Gloss to the front of the plate. Apply 3 coats using a CB618 Fan Brush.
Put your safety glasses on and break off 2 of the prongs on the fork. Break the far right and far left side, leaving you with only 2 prongs in the middle.
Dip your fork into SW501 White Gloss and pull your fork from the middle to the rim, making a straight line. Repeat this going in a circle leaving the middle empty. Not all lines need to be perfect or the same length. Apply one coat.
With just one tip of your fork add dots to the ends of each line using SW501 White Gloss. Apply one coat.
With just the tips of your fork add dots to the middle of dandelion. Use SW501 White Gloss. Apply one coat.
With just one tip of your fork apply SW514 Sage Gloss in one line for the stem of dandelion. Use the same method to add a leaf onto the stem. Apply with one coat.
With just the tips of your fork add dots to the middle of dandelion. Use SW514 Sage Gloss. Apply one coat.
Review all health and safety information for sand. A respirator or other protective equipment may be required. Avoid dust.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, basecoat the mushrooms with OS599 Medium Taupe.
In a small 2oz cup, mix 1 teaspoon of OS599 Medium Taupe, 1/2 teaspoon of AC502 Matte Brush-On Sealer and 1 ½ teaspoons of Play sand. Mix well!
Using a DB805 #3 Fan brush, apply 1-2 coats of the color/sand mix from step #3 to the lighter colored parts of the mushroom.
In a small 2oz cup, mix 1 teaspoon of OS472 Walnut, ½ teaspoon of AC502 Matte Brush-On Sealer and 1 1/2 teaspoon of Play Sand. Mix well!
Using a DB805 #3 Fan brush and an AB705 #5 Round, apply 1-2 coats of the color/sand mix from step #5 to the darker parts of the mushroom. The top, diamonds, bottom edge of the top and the bottom edge of the stem on the mushroom.
Using an AB709 3/8 Angular Shader, shade all the facets of the mushroom on both sides with OS489 Saddle Brown, including the top section and the diamond shapes.
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, apply 2 coats of AC502 Matte Brush-On Sealer to the mushrooms. Allow to dry between each coat!
Using a Pencil, sketch a vine line and leaves around the mushroom top and on the stems of the mushrooms.
In a small 2oz cup, mix 1 teaspoon of OS466 Avocado, ½ teaspoon of AC502 Matte Brush-On Sealer and 1 1/2 teaspoon of Play Sand. Mix well!
Using an AB703 #1 Liner, apply the Avocado mix to the vines and using an AB 705 #5 Round apply the Avocado mix to the leaves. Allow to dry!
Using an AB709 3/8 Angular Shader, shade all the leaves on one side with OS594 Limeburst.
Using a Stylus Tool or the end of a brush handle apply four dot flowers around the vein on the top of the mushroom. Highlight each dot with OS456 Baby Blue.
Using a Stylus Tool or the end of a brush handle apply dots of OS438 Orange Peel to the centers of the flowers, highlight with a small dot of OS435 Dark Yellow. Allow to dry!
Using anAB703 #1 Liner, out line the vines and leaves with OS476 Black. Allow to dry!
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, apply 1 -2 coats of Matte Brush-On Sealer over the leaves and vines and flowers. Allow to dry!
Do Not Fire!
Additional Adaptations & Tips
Make sure to shake the Bisq-Stains well.
DO Not use beach sand for this project. You need to use Play or Silica sand.
Review all health and safety information for sand. A respirator or other protective equipment may be required. Avoid dust.
Mixing the AC502 Matte Brush-On Sealer to the mix helps hold the sand on the piece.
Apply two coats of SW178 Fool’s Gold to the whole face of the plate with the soft fan brush, allowing the glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script liner brush, apply thick dots of SW408 White Flux over the Fool’s Gold. If desired, do a second coat of dots over the top of the first after they’ve dried.
After the dots have dried fully, apply two coats of SW167 Sand and Sea over the dots
Apply two coats of SW214 Micro Pearl to the whole face of the plate with the soft fan brush, allowing the glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script liner brush, apply thick dots of SW407 Clear Flux over the Micro Pearl. If desired, do a second coat of dots over the top of the first after they’ve dried.
After the dots have dried, apply two coats of SW108 Green Tea over the top.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using pencil, draw a line straight across the middle of the base of the dish, then adding two lines on both sides to make the whole base striped. Extend those lines straight up the sides. Add two more lines on both edges to keep the sections continuing up the side, these sections will be smaller. The entire inside should be striped.
Using flat brush coat the six stripes in the middle in this order: Glo-Worm, Aqu-ward, Lavendear, Pinkie Swear, Just Peachy, and Sunkissed. Continue the pattern out to the edges, to fill each section. Repeat with three coats of each color.
Turn the dish over and using the fan brush coat the entire outside and bottom with 3 coats of Black Velvet.
Fold the pattern over on itself like an accordion fold. There should be six sections. Cut out the patterns of the two ghosts and one bat. You should have six of each.
Once the Black Velvet is dry, turn over. One by one, wet each ghost and bat and randomly place each one inside the platter. The water should adhere it to the dish.
Once all the paper shapes are placed, use the fan brush to add three layers of Black Velvet over top of the paper and the entire inside of the dish. Everything should be covered in the Black Velvet. Once this is no longer shiny, use the needle/toothpick to carefully pull up all the paper pieces.
Use the back end of a brush to add ghost eye dots using the Black Velvet.
Use the flat brush to add stripes of Snowfall around the outside edge of the bowl. Repeat until you have three layers.
Create small clay creatures that embody different emotions—like joy, sadness, worry, or excitement.
Students design a creature that shows what that feeling looks like in monster form. A great Social Emotional Learning crossover that encourages empathy, expression, and creativity.
Choose an emotion to express—think about how it feels in your body and how it might look as a creature (e.g., spiky anger, droopy sadness, energetic joy).
Sketch a quick design showing body shape, face, and texture.
Handbuild your Mood Monster using pinch, coil, or slab methods—body can be solid or hollow.
Add facial features and textures to show emotion—exaggerate the eyes, mouth, posture, etc.
Optional: Add accessories like horns, tails, teeth, or wings.
Bisque fire, then glaze using expressive colors and patterns that reflect your chosen emotion.
Why Stroke & Coat Is Perfect for Mood Monsters
Mayco Stroke & Coat glazes are perfect for bright, bold colors that match emotions (e.g., SC-74 Hot Tamale for anger, SC-11 Blue Yonder for calm, SC-6 Sunkissed for happiness). These glazes offer excellent control for small features like eyes and mouths and they don’t run— great for keeping crisp details on small surfaces.
Form
Clay body of choice
Colors
Stroke & Coat
Decorating Accessories
CB604 #4 Soft Fan
CB406 #6 Pointed Round
CB202 #2 Detail Liner
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sketch paper and pencils
Emotion word list or mood cards
Mirror (to study facial expressions)
Wooden modeling tools
Slip and scoring tools
Textured stamps or found objects (buttons, shells, LEGOs, etc.)
Sponges and water bowls
Googly eyes (attach with glaze or epoxy after firing)
Wire or pipe cleaners for wild hair or arms (added post-fire)
Beads or gems embedded before firing or glued after
Acrylic paint or metallic wax (for highlights after glaze firing)
Designer Liner for outlining features or drawing mood symbols or words
More Than Just a Name — it’s a mini self-portrait in clay!
Each student will design and sculpt a textured ceramic tile that includes their name plus symbols, patterns, or images that represent who they are, where they’re from, what they love, or how they want to be seen in the classroom or studio space.
Students can carve, press, sculpt, or layer to create personalized designs that might include:
Favorite animals, foods, or hobbies
Cultural symbols or family connections
A personal motto or initials hidden in the texture
Abstract patterns that reflect personality (bold lines for big energy, soft swirls for calm vibes, etc.)
Color choices that reflect mood or values
Tiles can be funky, elegant, mysterious, or loud—just like the artists behind them. Once glazed and fired, the option of creating a collaborative display: a wall of names that says, “This is our creative community.”
Why Stroke & Coat and Jungle Gems Are Perfect for Name Tiles
Using Mayco’s Jungle Gems and Stroke & Coat glazes together creates the perfect combination for eye-catching name tiles. Jungle Gems offer a dynamic, textured background with pops of color and visual interest, while Stroke & Coat provides smooth, stay-right-where-you-put-it coverage that is ideal for lettering and design work. This contrast helps each student’s tile stand out with personality and clarity.
Form
Clay body of choice
Colors
Stroke & Coat
Jungle Gems
Decorating Accessories
CB604 #4 Soft Fan
CB406 #6 Pointed Round
CB202 #2 Detail Liner
Miscellaneous Accessories
Alphabet stencils (for younger artists or design guides)
Reference sheets (symbols, patterns, cultural motifs, fonts)
Found objects (buttons, shells, lace, leaves, zippers, toy wheels, coins, forks)
Carving tools
Rubber stamps or texture mats
Rolling pins or slab rollers
Water containers and sponges
Old toothbrushes (great for adding grit/texture or cleaning small spots)
Begin by wiping down the bisque with a damp sponge to remove dust and dirt.
Using the soft fan brush, apply three coats of SG303 to the whole top of the mushroom cap, allowing the glaze to dry between coats.
Using the script liner brush, apply one coat of SC077 Glo-Worm to the dots on top of the mushroom. Using the same color and a fan brush, apply three coats to the bottom of the stem below the ruffle.
With the script liner brush, apply three coats of SC075 Orange-A-Peel to the gills (underside of the cap) allowing the glaze to dry between coats.
On the plate, mix SC075 and SG303 in a 1 to 1 ratio. Apply three coats of the mixture to the ruffle on the stem using the fan brush.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a RB-144 #4 Soft fan brush apply two coats of UG093 Wild Violet to the entire exterior of your Wavy Mug, allowing to fully dry between coats.
Fire piece to cone 04 to ensure underglaze is adhered to the bisque form.
Once your piece has cooled, you will want to again moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply two coats of SW505 Purple Gloss to the inside of the mug using a RB-144 #4 Soft Fan Brush.
Using a small container or paint palette mix ½ Hot Pink Melt Gloop and ½ Blue Melt Gloop together until color is fully blended. Will appear as a pale shade of purple once mixed well.
Fill your AC-220 Detailer Bottle with the Melt Gloop Mixture.
Apply a line of Melt Gloop mixture to the top of both of the connection points on the handle
Apply dots that are roughly pea-sized to the top side of the handle in a domino like pattern
Apply horizontal bands of dots along the piece, spacing the dots roughly ¼” apart, ensuring the band below continues a domino-like application. Follow the cadence below to create your Melt Gloop dots:
Top band will have dots that are roughly pea-sized
Band underneath will have slightly smaller dots than top row
Continue steps 10.1 & 10.2 until piece is covered from top to bottom
Once the Melt Gloop application is complete, fire piece to cone 6.
Additional Adaptations & Tips
You will want to mix approximately 2-4 ounces of Melt Gloop mixture to complete the Melt Gloop application. More may be needed depending on how large you make your design dots.
Melt Gloop will start to run down the piece if dots become too large. Keep dots roughly pea-sized to ensure they stay in place and do not run.
If you do not bisque fire the underglaze onto your piece, it is likely that the Melt Gloop will pull some of the underglaze away when firing to cone 6. It is recommended to bisque on the underglaze first to avoid this.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a RB144 #4 Soft Fan Brush apply two coats of UG220 Sage to the outside of your mug and the handle.
Bisque fire piece to cone 04.
Once cooled use a RB144 #4 Soft Fan Brush to apply 2 coats of SW162 Pink Matte to the inside of the mug.
Fill the applicator bottle with SW422 Hot Pink Melt Gloop.
Apply a line of gloop on the top side arch of the handle and at the top of the connection points of the handle where the handle meets the mug.
Apply a consistent line of Melt Gloop at the rim of the mug.
Apply lines of the Melt Gloop around the mug on every shoulder, ensuring that the lines are continuous around the mug and connect back to the starting point.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Fill glaze syringes with Melt Gloop by putting tip of syringe into glaze while the plunger is fully pushed down. Ensure that tip of the syringe stays in the glaze while pulling up the plunger on the glaze syringe.
Once syringe is filled, clean tip of syringe with a damp sponge
Starting just below the rim of your Thumbler apply a horizontal line of SW420 White Melt Gloop with the glaze syringe, make sure to apply the line of Melt Gloop around the entire Thumbler until line of Melt Gloop connects.
Approximately ¼” underneath this line create a horizontal line of SW421 Yellow Melt Gloop making sure this line also goes around the entire thumbler and connects to itself.
Continue steps 3 & 4 until you have horizontal lines of white and yellow down your thumbler.
Allow Melt Gloop to start to dry. Once Melt Gloop no longer has a glossy sheen, continue to next step.
Using a RB144 #4 Soft Fan Brush apply two thick coats of SW136 Weathered Blue to the inside of the Thumbler and on top of the Melt Gloop.
Fire to cone 6.
Additional Adaptations & Tips
You can use the AC220 Detailer Tips & Bottle to create this project if you do not have a glaze syringe.
If your Melt Gloop begins to smear when brushing on the SW136 Weathered Blue, the Melt Gloop is too wet and needs more time to dry.
Using a damp sponge, wipe down the bisque piece to remove dirt and dust.
Apply two coats of SW196 Sand Dollar inside the grooves of the fluting using the script liner brush.
After the Sand Dollar has dried, apply two coats of SW177 Raspberry Mist to the whole inside and outside of the mug, leaving the foot of the mug unglazed.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Cut tip with scissors to open your AC-219 Design Bottle with Writer Tip.
Fill Design Bottle with SW401 Light Flux.
Center Mixing Bowl on a banding wheel to create two lines of SW401 Light Flux on the inside of the bowl near the rim using the AC-219 Design Bottle. Second line will be roughly 3/4” lower than the first line.
Once flux has dried use a RB118 #8 Round Brush to create 2 coats of dots with SW101 Stoned Denim on top of the Light Flux. Dots should be roughly 1” apart. Apply dots to both lines of light flux making sure to stagger dots between top and bottom row.
Once dry apply 2 coats of SW129 Copper Float to the outside and inside of your bowl.
Once dry, apply 1 coat of SW191 Peppered Plum 2/3 of the way down the bowl on the inside and outside.
Fire to cone 6.
Form
SB148 Medium Mixing Bowl
Colors
SW191 Peppered Plum
SW129 Copper Float
SW101 Stoned Denim
SW401 Light Flux
Decorating Accessories
RB144 Soft Fan Brush
RB118 #8 Round Brush
AC219 Designer Bottle with Writer Tip
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sponge
Water
Scissors
Banding Wheel
Mid-Range|Stoneware Bisque
407|411
58272
Sand Dollar and Amaryllis Mug – Stoneware Starter Palette
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a RB144 #4 Soft Fan Brush apply two coats of SW221 Mint Speck to the inside and outside of your bowl.
Cut tip with scissors to open your AC-219 Design Bottle with Writer Tip.
Fill Design Bottle with SW401 Light Flux.
Center bowl on a banding wheel and create two rows of “W’s” on the inside of the bowl with Light Flux starting at the top rim. Second row of “W’s” will be underneath the first row.
Using RB118 #8 Round Brush create two coats of dots with either SW177 Raspberry Mist or SW166 Norse Blue in the open spaces between the “W’s”.
Fire to cone 6.
Form
SB110 Dessert Bowl
Colors
SW401 Light Flux
SW221 Mint Speck
SW177 Raspberry Mist or SW166 Norse Blue
Decorating Accessories
RB144 Soft Fan Brush
RB118 #8 Round Brush
AC219 Designer Bottle with Writer Tip
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sponge
Water
Scissors
Banding Wheel
Mid-Range|Stoneware Bisque
407|411
58270
Aurora Green and Tiger’s Eye Mug – Stoneware Starter Palette
Using a damp sponge, wipe down the bisque piece to remove dirt and dust.
Apply two coats of SW101 Stoned denim to the bottom bubble of the vace and up about ¼” on the bubble above.
After the Stoned Denim has dried, apply two coats of SW189 Cenote to the whole second bubble and ¼” of the top section of the vase. The Cenote should overlap the little bit of Stoned Denim from the section below.
After the Cenote has dried, apply two coats of SW196 Sand Dollar to the top of the vase.
Begin by applying two coats of SC015 Tuxedo to the whole face of the tile using a soft fan brush.
After the last layer of black has lost its shine, lay the pattern on top of the tile and gently trace with a pen. Remove pattern.
Using the mini liner brush, trace the lines that were left from the pattern transfer with wax resist.
For the flower petals, blob in EL127 Rose Granite with a script liner brush and immediately force dry with a hairdryer on high until cracks appear in the drying glaze.
For the leaves, blob in EL130 Sea Green with a script liner brush and immediately force dry with a hairdryer on high until cracks appear in the drying glaze.
For the inside of the flower, blob in EL145 Ginger Root with a script liner brush and immediately force dry with a hairdryer on high until cracks appear in the drying glaze.
For the background, blob in EL149 Lavender Flower with a script liner brush and immediately force dry with a hairdryer on high until cracks appear in the drying glaze.
Apply three coats of SC015 Tuxedo to the back of the plate and allow to dry normally.
Begin by applying two coats of SC015 Tuxedo to the whole face of the tile using a soft fan brush.
After the last layer of black has lost it’s shine, lay the pattern on top of the tile and gently trace with a pen. Remove pattern.
Using the mini liner prush, trace the lines that were left from the pattern transfer with wax resist.
For the flower petals, blob in CG1014 Pink Plum with a script liner brush and immediately force dry with a hairdryer on high until cracks appear in the drying glaze.
For the leaves, blob in CG987 Tree Frog with a script liner brush and immediately force dry with a hairdryer on high until cracks appear in the drying glaze.
For the inside of the flower, blob in CG753 Sassy Orange with a script liner brush and immediately force dry with a hairdryer on high until cracks appear in the drying glaze.
For the background, blob in CG999 Jazz Notes with a script liner brush and immediately force dry with a hairdryer on high until cracks appear in the drying glaze.
Begin by applying two coats of SW508 Black Gloss to the whole outside of the bud vase using a soft fan brush.
After the last layer of black has lost its shine, lay the pattern on top of the vase and gently trace with a pen. Remove pattern.
Using the mini liner brush, trace the lines that were left from the pattern transfer with wax resist.
For the inner flower petals, blob in SW515 Aqua Gloss with a script liner brush and immediately force dry with a hairdryer on high until cracks appear in the drying glaze.
For the outer flower petals, blob in SW506 Bright Blue Gloss with a script liner brush and immediately force dry with a hairdryer on high until cracks appear in the drying glaze
For the leaves and inside of the flower, blob in SW514 Aqua Gloss with a script liner brush and immediately force dry with a hairdryer on high until cracks appear in the drying glaze.
For the background, blob in SW507 Bright Green Gloss with a script liner brush and immediately force dry with a hairdryer on high until cracks appear in the drying glaze.
Begin by applying two coats of SW503 Black Gloss to the whole face of the plate using a soft fan brush.
After the last layer of black has lost its shine, lay the pattern on top of the plate and gently trace with a pen. Remove pattern.
Using the mini liner brush, trace the lines that were left from the pattern transfer with wax resist.
For the flower petals, blob in SW214 Micro Pearl with a script liner brush and immediately force dry with a hairdryer on high until cracks appear in the drying glaze.
For the leaves, blob in SW216 Micro Jade with a script liner brush and immediately force dry with a hairdryer on high until cracks appear in the drying glaze.
For the center of the flower and the undersides of the petals, blob in SW215 Micro Champagne with a script liner brush and immediately force dry with a hairdryer on high until cracks appear in the drying glaze.
For the background, blob in SW217 Micro Cerulean with a script liner brush and immediately force dry with a hairdryer on high until cracks appear in the drying glaze.
Apply three coats of SW503 Black Gloss to the rim of the back of the plate and allow to dry normally.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a RB-144 #4 Soft Fan brush, apply 2 coats of EG006 Sparkle Black Engobe to the outside of the mug. Make sure that you burnish the surface with your fingers after each coat to reveal the sparkles.
Using a RB-144 #4 Soft Fan Brush apply 2 coats of SW223 Milk Glass to the handle and the inside of the mug and allow to dry.
Using a RB-144 #4 Soft Fan Brush apply 2 coats of SW222 Green Jasper on the handle and inside the mug over top SW223 Milk Glass, allow to dry.
Fill Applicator Bottles with Melt Gloop Colors
Using Starry Night as a reference guide, create your own Starry Night design on your mug using a series of small dots to create shapes.
Using SW420 White Melt Gloop and SW421 Yellow Melt Gloop to create stars.
Using SW420 White Melt Gloop to create wind swirls.
Using SW425 Black Melt Gloop to create the shadow of the cypress trees.
Using SW424 Blue Melt Gloop and SW425 Black Melt Gloop to create the hills and ground.
Fire piece to cone 6.
Additional Adaptations & Tips
Ensure that you burnish after applying each coat of EG006 Sparkle Black Engobe or the sparkles will not be as prominent in your finished piece.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a RB-144 #4 Soft Fan Brush apply two coats of SW508 Black Gloss to the inside of your mug and the handle.
Fill Applicator bottles with each color of Melt Gloop (6 bottles total).
On the first side of your mug create a flower dot design.
Use SW423 Slime Green Melt Gloop to create the stem and leaf.
Use SW421 to create the flower petals.
Use SW425 to create the pistil/inside of the flower.
On the second side of your mug you will create lines of dots to mimic a rainbow.
Create lines of dots with one color at a time starting from the inside of the rainbow and following the below color pattern:
SW425 Black Melt Gloop (Inner most arch)
SW424 Blue Melt Gloop
SW423 Slime Green Melt Gloop
SW422 Hot Pink Melt Gloop
SW421 Yellow Melt Gloop
SW420 White Melt Gloop (Outer most arch)
Fire to cone 6.
Additional Adaptations & Tips
Keep in mind that if your dots become too large they can tend to run down your piece. Try to keep dots roughly pea sized or smaller to ensure they stay in the same place after firing.
If your dots are placed too closely together they may melt into each other during the firing.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Mix 3 Parts SW004 Zinc Free Clear with 1 parts water to thin glaze.
Pour mixture of Zinc Free Clear into the vase form.
Turn the vase in a circular motion slowly while also tilting the vase to pour out any excess glaze. Be sure to coat the entirety of the inside of the form.
Take your syringe and make sure plunger is completely pushed down then submerge tip of syringe into SW423 Slime Green Melt Gloop and pull plunger up 1/3 of the way and wipe the tip of your syringe.
Submerge tip of syringe into SW422 Hot Pink Melt Gloop and pull plunger up another 1/3 of the way (syringe will now be 2/3 full) and wipe the tip of your syringe.
Submerge tip of syringe into SW421 Yellow Melt Gloop and pull plunger up another 1/3 of the way (syringe will now be full) and wipe the tip of your syringe.
Place your vase on the banding wheel and center your vase.
Start turning your banding wheel slowly and begin at the top rim of the vase by slowly pushing down the plunger on your syringe to allow Gloop to adhere to vase.
As the piece rotates slowly move your syringe down the form to create a spiral line of Gloop on the form
Once your syringe is empty repeat steps 5-7
Return to your vase on the banding wheel and begin again by turning your banding wheel slowly and adhering Gloop where your previous glaze trailing ended and continue the spiral pattern.
Continue to fill syringe as needed to complete the spiral pattern of Gloop until you reach the foot ring of the vase.
Allow Gloop glaze to dry mostly before moving to the next step. The glaze will lose its sheen/have a satin like finish. This is when you are ready to move forward.
Using a #4 Soft Fan Brush apply 2 coats of SW219 Opal Lustre allowing glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 6.
Additional Adaptations & Tips
Be sure to thoroughly clean the tip of your syringe each time after filling with a sponge before dipping syringe into the next color to prevent any color contamination.
If you see the Gloop glaze streaking into your brush when applying the first coat of Opal Lustre the Gloop is still too wet and needs more time to dry.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Mix 3 Parts SW004 Zinc Free Clear with 1 parts water to thin glaze.
Pour mixture of Zinc Free Clear into the vase form.
Turn the vase in a circular motion slowly while also tilting the vase to pour out any excess glaze. Be sure to coat the entirety of the inside of the form.
Take your syringe and make sure plunger is completely pushed down then submerge tip of syringe into SW425 Black Melt Gloop and pull plunger up ¼ of the way and wipe the tip of your syringe.
Submerge tip of syringe into SW424 Blue Melt Gloop and pull plunger up another ¼ of the way (syringe will now be half full) and wipe the tip of your syringe.
Submerge tip of syringe into SW423 Slime Green Melt Gloop and pull plunger up another ¼ of the way (syringe will now be ¾ full) and wipe the tip of your syringe.
Submerge tip of syringe into SW422 Hot Pink Melt Gloop and pull plunger up another ¼ of the way (syringe will now be full) and wipe the tip of your syringe.
Place your vase on the banding wheel and center your vase.
Start turning your banding wheel slowly and begin at the top rim of the vase by slowly pushing down the plunger on your syringe to allow Gloop to adhere to vase.
As the piece rotates slowly move your syringe down the form to create a spiral line of Gloop on the form
Once your syringe is empty begin to fill your syringe again and submerge tip of syringe into SW421 Yellow Melt Gloop and pull plunger up ¼ of the way and wipe the tip of your syringe.
Submerge tip of syringe into SW420 White Melt Gloop and pull plunger up another ¼ of the way (syringe will now be half full) and wipe the tip of your syringe.
Submerge tip of syringe into SW235 Black Melt Gloop and pull plunger up another ¼ of the way (syringe will now be ¾ full) and wipe the tip of your syringe.
Submerge tip of syringe into SW424 Blue Melt Gloop and pull plunger up another ¼ of the way (syringe will now be full) and wipe the tip of your syringe.
Return to your vase on the banding wheel and begin again by turning your banding wheel slowly and adhering Gloop where your previous glaze trailing ended and continue the spiral pattern.
Continue to fill syringe as needed to complete the spiral pattern of Gloop until you reach the foot ring of the vase.
Allow Gloop glaze to dry mostly before moving to the next step. The glaze will lose its sheen/have a satin like finish. This is when you are ready to move forward.
Using a #4 Soft Fan Brush apply 2 coats of SW223 Milk Glass allowing glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 6.
Additional Adaptations & Tips
Be sure to thoroughly clean the tip of your syringe each time after filling with a sponge before dipping syringe into the next color to prevent any color contamination.
If you see the Gloop glaze streaking into your brush when applying the first coat of Milk Glass the Gloop is still too wet and needs more time to dry.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Mix 3 Parts SW004 Zinc Free Clear with 1 parts water to thin glaze.
Pour mixture of Zinc Free Clear into the vase form.
Turn the vase in a circular motion slowly while also tilting the vase to pour out any excess glaze. Be sure to coat the entirety of the inside of the form.
Using a #4 Fan Brush apply 1 thick coat of SW425 Black Gloop onto vase and allow glaze to dry mostly before moving to the next step. The glaze will lose its sheen/have a satin like finish. This is when you are ready to move forward.
Apply 2 coats of SW162 Pink Matte, allowing pink Matte to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 6.
Additional Adaptations & Tips
If you see the Gloop glaze streaking into your brush when applying first coat of Pink Matte the Gloop is still too wet and needs more time to dry.
Gloop does not apply like a typical stoneware glaze when brushing. You may see texture from brush strokes and your coat of brushed glaze will apply thick.
Gloop will tend to break and pull apart where the glaze is applied thicker.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
RB-144 #4 Soft Fan Brush apply 2 coats of SW152 Blue Splatterware to the inside of the bowl and allow to fully dry
Once glaze is dry, turn bowl upside down on a banding wheel
Fill Applicator bottles with Melt Gloop
Starting near the rim of the bowl create a horizontal line of dots using SW424 Blue Melt Gloop, leaving roughly ¼” – ½” of space between the dots.
Continue creating lines of dots in a domino like pattern on the outside of your bowl using SW424 Blue Melt Gloop
Using SW420 White Melt Gloop layer a smaller dot of the White Melt Gloop on top of the Blue Melt Gloop starting with the first line near the rim.
Continue by adding additional dots of white to the second row of blue dots near the rim.
After this, skip a row of blue dots and apply a dot of white on top of the blue. Continue to skip a row as you work your way up the outside of the bowl.
Fire to cone 6.
Additional Adaptations & Tips
Melt Gloop will start to run down the piece if dots become too large. Keep dots roughly pea-sized to ensure they stay in place and do not run.
Wipe down bisque bowl with a damp cleaning sponge to remove any dust and prep the ware for color.
Apply two coats of Black Engobe to the back of the plate. You can also apply it to the foot, since two coats of Engobe won’t stick to most kiln wash.
Use the fan brush or sponge to really dampen the top of the plate. You want this to be wet, so the colors don’t dry fast. After applying water, apply a good coat of Thin ‘N Shade to the top of the plate to slow the drying process.
Center the plate on the banding wheel. With the writer tip on the bottles of Stroke & Coat Colors, Start the wheel turning and squeeze the color right from the bottle onto the surface of the plate in rings of color, starting in the center of the plate working out to the edge. This color should be thick, and you want to work quickly so the color does not dry.
Use the hair tip of the liner brush to pull lines out from the center of the plate, first dividing the plate in half, then quarters, then eighths, all working out from the center. Do not worry about washing the brush out between stroked through the color.
Pull lines of color from the outside edge of the plate into the center between each division created. Notice how the pattern changes.
Place the top of the brush in the very center of the plate and start the plate turning to create a swirl of color In the center.
Allow the colors to dry naturally. The plate may take a day to dry because of all the moisture you applied to keep the color from drying fast.
Wipe down bisque bowl with a damp cleaning sponge to remove any dust and prep the ware for color.
Apply one coat of Fire Engine Red, Bright Yellow, and Bright Blue randomly over the entire vase so some color is showing on every part of the surface. Allow to dry.
Apply three coats of Jet Black over the entire vase. Allow to dry between coats.
While the Jet black is still damp, use a sgraffito tool or toothpick and scratch random design lines over the shape. Use gentle pressure so you only go through the black, and not all the way through to the bisque. Allow shavings to stay on the surface until the color is dry. Brushing them away while the color is damp can cause them to embed into the color. It is best to wait until the colors are completely dry to brush them away.
Apply two coats of clear glaze for the body selected to the entire outside of the vase (dry foot if stoneware. Roll diluted clear to the interior and drain excess.
Stilt and fire earthenware items to cone 06 and dry foot and fire stoneware to cone 6.
Form
Earthenware or stoneware shape of choice (Stoneware shape shown)
Wipe down bisque bowl with a damp cleaning sponge and center the bowl on the banding wheel.
Use the fan brush to apply two coats of Black Engobe to the exterior of the bowl, including the bottom. Engobes won’t stick to most brands of kiln wash in firing when no more than two coats are applied to the area making contact with the shelf.
Thin each of the three Stroke & Coat colors with three parts color with one part water. Colors need to be thinned to achieve a nice blend of color when banding.
Begin by banding the bottom of the bowl with diluted Fruit of the Vine. While that color is still wet, band diluted Cara-bein Blue on the inside side of the bowl so it blends into Fruit of the Vine. While the Cara-bein Blue is wet, band diluted Teal Next Time along the top edge, blending the two colors together where they meet.
Dilute Cobalt Black one part color to one part water. Load a dagger brush and band fine lines of color around the edge of the bowl.
Use the drybrush fan brush to speckle diluted Cobalt Black to the interior of the bowl.
Load the tip of the DB805 Drybrush Fan with slightly thinned EZ012 and flick the bristle toward the surface of the bowl to add a speckle over the interior.
Apply two coats of SW001 Stoneware Clear to the inside of bowl. Be careful applying the first coat of glaze since the black EZ Stroke can smear when it gets wet with glaze. (Don’t overbrush.)
Wipe bisque with a damp sponge to remove dust/dirt and allow to dry
Apply three coats of EL101 Oyster Shell to the whole plate and allow to dry until the shine is gone
Transfer the pattern to the plate by laying the pattern on the plate and pressing lightly to outline with a pen. Remove the pattern to see the indents left by the traced pattern.
Using the Mini liner brush, outline the pattern lines in AC302 Wax Resist.
Apply three coats EL 131 Turtle Shell to the main parts of the wings.
Apply three coats of EL133 Autumn to the antenna.
Apply three coats of EL128 Wheat to the body of the moth
Apply three coats of EL118 Blue Grotto to the spots and top of the wings
Apply three coats of EL129 Slate around the outside of the moth and moon.
Wipe bisque with a damp sponge to remove dust/dirt and allow to dry
Transfer the pattern to the plate with the clay carbon paper.
Fill in all the leaves with three coats of EL131 Turtle shell allowing the coats to dry between each layer.
Using the Mini liner brush, apply three coats of EL130 Sea Green to the stems of the leaves.
Apply three coats of EL127 Rose Granite and EL149 Lavender Flower to the flowers, allowing the colors to overlap slightly at the center of each petal.
Once the color has dried, apply one coat of AC302 Wax Resist to the flowers and leaves. Don’t worry about taking the wax all the way to the edge of where the color meets the bisque, focus on the center of each.
After the wax has dried, slightly water down EL129 Slate and apply to the whole plate with a soft fan brush. Apply a second and third coat after the shine has gone away.
Clean off any leftover watered down spots of EL129 Slate on the flowers using a damp brush. Leave the spots on the leaves.
Apply three coats of EL129 Slate to the back of the plate.
Mix SC027 Sour Apple and SC029 onto a paper plate, using a toothpick, and let it dry up. You will want to start drying the glaze the day before or a few hours before staring the project.
After the glaze has dried, break the glaze apart into smaller chips on the plate.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a RB106 Script Liner, apply SW303 Manganese Wash in a pattern around the rim. Applied 2 rows of “w”s so there is a space to add the dried SC029 Bluegrass and SC027 Sour Apple.
Apply the dried chips of SC029 Bluegrass and SC027 sour Apple as inside of the loops made with the wash. To help the dried chips stick add a dot of SW303 Manganese Wash behind the chips.
Allow the glaze to dry.
Apply 3 coats of SW173 Amber Quartz to both the inside and the outside of the bowl. Allow the glaze to dry in between coats and avoid glazing the foot. Use A CB604 Soft Fan.
Use a damp sponge to wipe away any glaze that may have gotten on the foot.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of UG223 Apricot to one third of the plate. Followed by UG204 Orange to the next third (middle) of the plate and finally UG207 Flame Red, blending the colors into each other. Allow to dry.
Repeat step 2 again. When dry apply a third coat blending the colors into each other. Allow to dry.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of UG050 Jet Black. Apply the second coat when the first has lost its shine.
Using a toothpick or bamboo skewer, scratch through the UG050 Jet Black allowing the color under it show through. This design was done free handed creating leaves and veins going around the outer edge of the plate. When dry dust off any crumbs from the sgraffito of the leaves.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of UG050 Jet Black to the back of the plate, either the low fire plate or the stoneware plate.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats apply 2 coats of SW001 Stoneware Clear to the piece except to the foot of the piece. Allow to dry.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of UG223 Apricot to one third of the plate. Followed by UG204 Orange to the next third (middle) of the plate and finally UG207 Flame Red, blending the colors into each other. Allow to dry.
Repeat step 2 again. When dry apply a third coat blending the colors into each other. Allow to dry.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of UG050 Jet Black. Apply the second coat when the first has lost its shine.
Using a toothpick or bamboo skewer, scratch through the UG050 Jet Black allowing the color under it show through. This design was done free handed creating leaves and veins going around the outer edge of the plate. When dry dust off any crumbs from the sgraffito of the leaves.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of UG050 Jet Black to the back of the plate, either the low fire plate or the stoneware plate.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of S2101 Crystal Clear Brushing to the low fired plate. Allow to dry.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the RB144 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of the EG006 Sparkle Black Engobe to the outside of the mug (even the bottom – engobes are not a glaze and will not stick to the shelf).
Once the Engobe is dry, use a pencil to draw a grid on the mug.
Using the CB106 #6 Script Liner, carefully block out squares in the grid with AC302 Wax Resist.
Once the wax is dry, use the CB106 #6 Script Liner to apply 2 coats of SW514 Sage Gloss around the blocked-out squares and on the handle – you may need to clean glaze drops off the wax resist using a damp sponge.
Using the RB140 #8 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of SW220 Black Timber to the inside of the mug.
Use a damp sponge to clean any excess glaze that may have got on the foot.
Place directly on the kiln shelf and fire to cone 6.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Fill the AC222 Medium Writer Tip Kit with SW221 Mint Speck.
Apply angled stripes to create the swirl pattern. You will want the stripes to appear dimensional, but not be heavy enough that the product is dripping. If the product dries quickly – the application is thin and you will want to apply 2 coats.
Using the RB140 #8 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of SW221 Mint Speck to the inside of the mug.
Using the RB144 #8 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of SW224 Tropical Teal to the inside and outside of the mug (avoiding the bottom).
Use a damp sponge to clean any excess glaze that may have got on the foot.
Place directly on the kiln shelf and fire to cone 6.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the RB140 #8 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SW115 Aqua Gloss to the outside of the mug.
Using the CB106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2 thin coats of SC102 Just Peachy to make the body of the shrimps. (You may want to mark the spacing of these with a washable marker) Each body is one swoop of a brushstroke for the shape – 2 coats total.
Apply 1 coat of SC016 Cotton tail to the belly of the shrimps.
Apply 1 coat of SC088 Tu Tu Tango to the tail and markings on the shrimps.
Using the RB140 #8 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of SC102 Just Peachy to the inside of the mug.
Apply 1 coat of SC088 Tu Tu Tango to the inside of the mug.
Use a damp sponge to clean any excess glaze that may have got on the foot.
Place directly on the kiln shelf and fire to cone 6.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a RB144 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of SW128 Cordovan to the inside of the mug, the handle, and the top ½” of the outside.
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner, paint dots or another pattern by applying 2 coats of SW128 Cordovan – avoid applying the design to close to the bottom of the piece; this combination can be very fluid.
Using a RB144 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of SW222 Green Jasper to the outside of the mug. (2 coats if you’re a light glazer)
Use a damp sponge to clean any excess glaze that may have got on the foot.
Place directly on the kiln shelf and fire to cone 6.
Wipe down bisque with a damp sponge to get rid of any dirt or dust.
Apply three coats of SW166 Norse blue to the whole front of the plate and allow to dry.
In the mixing cup mix three parts SW165 Lavender Mist to one part water and prep the pipette with alcohol.
Working swiftly, apply one thick coat of the watered down SW165 Lavender Mist to the rim of the plate and immediately drop repeating drips of rubbing alcohol along the rim of the plate. Continue until the whole rim of the plate is done. Apply another thick coat of the mixture to the center of the plate and either drip more alcohol immediately onto the wet glaze, or just leave the glaze as-is for a more solid colored center.
Apply two coats of EG003 Brick Red to the whole plate.
Apply three coats of SW214 Micro Pearl and allow to dry.
Mix up your bubble solution with 6 parts SC031 The Blues glaze, 1 part dish soap, 2 parts water in a small cup. Stir thoroughly with the straw.
Blow the bubbles until they overflow the cup and gently scoop out and place them onto the piece. Allow the bubbles to pop naturally. Repeat until the whole plate is covered.
Mix EL106 Tidal Pool and EL144Dark Amethyst onto a paper plate using a toothpick, and let it dry up.
You will want to start drying the glaze the day before or a few hours before staring the project.
After the glaze has dried, break the glaze apart into smaller chips on the plate.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a RB106 Script Liner, apply PC601 Clear Cascade in a pattern around the rim. Apply 2 rows of “w”s so there is a space to add the dried EL106 Tidal Pool and EL144Dark Amethyst.
Apply the dried chips of EL106 Tidal Pool and EL144Dark Amethyst inside of the loops made with the Clear Cascade. To help the dried chips stick, add a dot of PC601 Clear Cascade behind the chips.
Allow the glaze to dry.
Apply 2 coats of EL153Caribbean Blue to both the inside and the outside of the bowl. Allow the glaze to dry, then apply 2 coats of EL131Turtle Shell. Use A CB604 Soft Fan.
Check the ware over for any blemishes and if any are present, lightly sand the ware to remove the blemishes.
Damp sponge the ware to remove any fired dust and to condition the piece for decorating.
Place the Fundamental Colors on the palette as needed. If the product is extremely thick, thin with a few drops of water or Thin ’n Shade. Mix with a palette knife.
Using the #8 Pointed Round fully loaded with a generous amount of Bright Yellow, Flame Red and Orange, all on the brush at the same time.
Using a blooping motion, generously cover the top of the mushroom. The colors should look mottled. However, total coverage is needed. Keep reloading the Pointed Round as needed. There is no need to wash the brush. Allow the first application some drying time. Proceed to apply two more coats in the same manner.
While the top is setting; using the same brush generously loaded with Apple Green and Lime Green. Proceed to apply these two colors to the underside of the mushroom and the stem. Again, a total of three coats is needed. Allow the color to dry.
Special Note: Once the mottled basecoats have been applied, the piece can be fired to cone 04 to set the color. By firing now, this will eliminate any white areas of bisque showing through the Sgraffitoing. If you decide not to set the color, there is a good possibility that cutting through the applied color could leave white bisque exposed.
Once the decision has been made to fire or not fire the base colors, proceed as follows.
Using the ¾” Oval, apply three coats of Jet Black to the top of the mushroom and bring the Jet Black under the mushrooms lip by one-quarter inch (1/4”).
Before moving on to the stem, Sgraffito the top of the mushroom. When attempting this technique, the top layer of color must remain fairly damp. Color should feel damp but should not be so wet the color comes off on your fingers.
A pattern has been provided as a guide for the Sgraffitoing.
Lightly, if needed sketch the design onto the damp Jet Black.
To Sgraffito:
Top color should be damp.
Hold the Sgraffito tool, like a pencil.
Work towards yourself.
Use plenty of pressure on the tool.
Gently brush off the debris caused by the Sgraffitoing.
While cutting through the top color, if the color starts to chip, the top color is too dry. Spritz with water or lay a wet paper towel over the color and allow some time to rehydrate the underglaze.
Once the top of the mushroom has been Sgraffitoed; using the ¾” Oval, apply three coats of Olive to the stem of the Mushroom and its underside. Butting the Olive right next to the Jet Black.
Again, referring to the provided pattern, Sgraffito the grass like design over the stem and pull in lines to the underside of the mushroom.
Brush off any fine debris that may be present.
Allow to dry and fire the piece to shelf cone 04.
Damp sponge the ware to condition for glazing and to remove any fired dust.
With Fan Glaze brush, apply 2 to 3 coats of Crystal Clear Brushing over the entire piece.
Stilt ware and fire to shelf cone 06.
Remove Stilt marks with Dremel Tool or Stilt Stone.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Onto a paper plate pour a little bit of EL149 Lavender Flower and mix with water; repeat this step with less water to make a thinner and thicker version of EL149 Lavender flower.
Apply the thinner version of EL149 Lavender flower first by using a RB106 Scripted Liner. Place small, medium, or large splotches round the entire bowl. Once dry repeat with the thicker version of EL149 Lavender Flower. Apply only one coat.
Repeat steps 2 and 3 with EL153 Caribbean Blue and EL130 Sea Green.
Once dry, apply SG402 White by outlining all the different splotches, one coat.
Apply NTBR Clear One Brushing glaze over the entire inside. Apply with a RB144 Soft Fan, one coat.
Apply EL130 Sea Green all around the outside of the bowl. Apply with a RB144 Soft Fan, 3 coats.
Let dry then place it on a stilt and fire it to cone 06.
MB1467 Faceted Bud Vase
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Onto a paper plate pour a little bit of EL149 Lavender Flower and mix with water; repeat this step with less water to make a thinner and thicker version of EL149 Lavender flower.
Apply the thinner version of EL149 Lavender flower first by using a RB106 Scripted Liner. Place small, medium, or large splotches in a band going around the middle of the vase. Once dry repeat with the thicker version of EL149 Lavender Flower. Apply only one coat.
Repeat steps 2 and 3 with EL153 Caribbean Blue and EL130 Sea Green.
Once dry, apply SG402 White by outlining all the different splotches, one coat.
Apply NTBR Clear One Brushing glaze over all the splotches. Apply with a RB144 Soft Fan, one coat.
Apply EL130 Sea Green all around the top and bottom of the vase. Apply with a RB144 Soft Fan, 3 coats.
Apply EL153 Caribbean Blue to the inside of the vase. Apply with a RB144 Soft Fan, 3 coats.
Let dry then place it on a stilt and fire it to cone 06.
Directions: MB885 Great Shapes Vases: Short Neck
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Onto a paper plate pour a little bit of EL149 Lavender Flower and mix with water; repeat this step with less water to make a thinner and thicker version of EL149 Lavender flower.
Apply the thinner version of EL149 Lavender flower first by using a RB106 Scripted Liner. Place small, medium, or large splotches in a band going around the middle of the vase. Once dry repeat with the thicker version of EL149 Lavender Flower. Apply only one coat.
Repeat steps 2 and 3 with EL153 Caribbean Blue and EL130 Sea Green.
Once dry, apply SG402 White by outlining all the different splotches, one coat.
Apply NTBR Clear One Brushing glaze over all the splotches. Apply with a RB144 Soft Fan, one coat.
Apply EL130 Sea Green all around the top and bottom of the vase. Apply with a RB144 Soft Fan, 3 coats.
Apply EL153 Caribbean Blue to the inside of the vase. Apply with a RB144 Soft Fan, 3 coats.
Let dry then place it on a stilt and fire it to cone 06.
Additional Adaptations & Tips
Q tips or a paper towel will be helpful to prevent running when applying the watered down glaze. Lightly dap up the excess pool of glaze.
Begin by wiping down the bisque with a damp sponge. Using the Fan Brush, coat the inside of the mug with three coats of UG010.
While the inside of the mug is drying, prep the bubble color solution. Each color of underglaze gets its own cup. Mix each color with one part glaze, one part soap, and two parts water.
Take the first color and blow bubbles in the solution with a straw. Using a spoon, stir to fluff up the bubbles and make them smaller. Use the spoon to plop sections of bubbles onto the outside of the mug. Allow the bubbles to pop naturally.
Repeat step 3 with each color.
Once the bubbles have dried, apply two coats of S2101 Crystal Clear Brushing Glaze to the whole mug.
Allow to dry, stilt, and fire to cone 06.
Additional Adaptations & Tips
To reduce possible smearing of the bubbles when applying the clear coat, bisque fire the mug to cone 04 before applying the clear glaze.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour SG102 Rapid Roll Black inside the vase, then roll the vase and pour out the remainder glaze.
Apply CG963 Lemon Lime to the top half of the vase. Apply two coats with a RB144 Soft Fan.
Apply CG1001 Gogh Iris to the middle of the vase without touching top glaze. Apply two coats with a RB144 Soft Fan.
Apply CG962 Blue Azure to the bottom of the vase without touching middle glaze. Apply two coats with a RB144 Soft Fan.
Now take a RB144 Soft Fan and dip half of the brush into CG963 Lemon Lime and the other half into CG1001 Gogh Iris. This will go in the middle of both glazes to create a blend between the two. Apply two coats.
Take a RB144 Soft Fan and dip half of the brush into CG962 Blue Azure and the other half into CG1001 Gogh Iris. This will go in the middle of both glazes to create a blend between the two. Apply two coats.
Apply three coats of SC016 Cotton Tail to the top of the plate and allow to dry.
Pour the other colors of Stroke & Coat into the AC220 Detail Bottles and Tips. Cut the top of the tips off the spouts.
Take the three chunks of moist clay, roll them into balls, and press them evenly spaced onto the bottom of the plate over the foot ridge.
Press the plate and balls of clay firmly onto the pottery wheel. Give it a little wiggle to ensure that it’s properly gripping and won’t fly off.
Start up the wheel at about ¾ max speed.
Begin with your first bottle of color and squeeze out a few rings of thick color onto the spinning plate. Repeat for the other two colors.
When all the colors are squeezed onto the plate, run the wheel at full speed for a few seconds. Slowly stop the wheel and remove plate from the wheel and blobs of clay.
Allow the face of the plate to dry and add three coats of SC015 Tuxedo to the back of the plate.
Allow plate to dry, stilt, and fire to cone 06
Additional Adaptations & Tips
For a more mixed look to the colors, apply two coats of SC016 Cotton Tail to the face of the plate and allow to dry. Pour out enough color for another coat onto a paper plate and bring with to the wheel. After attaching your plate, add a third wet coat os SC016 Cotton Tail and immediately begin applying the rings of color to the fresh coat of wet glaze just like the above instructions.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Trace the pattern on the tile using AC230 Clay Carbon Paper and a pencil.
Decide where you would like to place your color choices.
Using a CB602 #2 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of each color to the are you would like that color. Allow to dry between each coat.
After all colors have been applied, remove the masking tape. Brush off any crumbs of dry color.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of S2101 Crystal Clear Brushing glaze to the top side of the tile. Optional: You can glaze the back of the tile if you like.
Stilt and Fire to Cone 06/05.
Additional Adaptations & Tips
Make sure to shake the Stroke & Coats well.
Be careful when applying the Speckled Stroke & Coats not to get the specks to bunch in one area.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place some of each Stroke & Coat color on a palette.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, randomly apply large dots of SC006 Sunkissed, SC075 Orange-A-Peel and SC074 Hot Tamale onto the plate covering the plate with all three colors.
Repeat the step above. Make sure to apply a good bit of each color.
Take a piece of plastic wrap and lay it over the plate. Using your fingers, smush the colors blending the colors into each other.
Remove the plastic wrap and immediately lay the feathers into the wet glaze pressing them down to stick. Make sure to have the spine of the feather facing up.
Note: If your glaze has dried or if your feathers are not sticking you can lightly wet the feathers with water as you apply them.
When the shine is gone from the Stroke & Coat colors, using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of FN009 Black over the feathers covering the top of the plate.
When the shine of the second coat of FN009 Black has gone, remove the feathers before the glaze dries. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, Apply 2-3 coats of FN009 Black to the back of the plate. Allow to dry!
Stilt and Fire to Cone 06/05.
Additional Adaptations & Tips
Make sure to shake the Stroke & Coats well.
Place the Stroke & Coat on a glazed tile or paper plate as a palette.
Colors can also be applied with a sponge instead of a brush.
The feathers can be washed and reused.
Other objects can be used in place of feathers such as Jute String.
Begin by coating the tile in 2 coats of FN009 black. Allow to dry.
Thin down the EL149 Lavender Flower in about a 5 part glaze to 1 part water ratio. Fill the pipette with the rubbing alcohol.
Apply one thick layer of the watered down EL149 over the top of the black tile. Immediately drip the rubbing alcohol from the pipette randomly over the tile.
Allow the tile to dry, stilt, and fire to cone 06.
Place one of each of the following colors onto a covered plate: SC006 Sunkissed, SC013 Graple, SC026 Green Thumb, SC074 Hot Tamale, SC075 Orange-A-Peel, SC076 Cara-bein Blue. Allow the colors to dry out. This may take some time.
Once the colors are dry, break the colors up to create crumbles. Keeping each color separate.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of FN009 Black to the top of the plate and 3 coats to the back of the plate. Allow to dry between each coat.
Using the ¼” Masking Tape. Divide the top of the plate into six sections.
Cover the sections of the plate not being worked on with paper to prevent the colors going onto each other.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, dampen one section at a time with some water. When the shine is gone, apply a coat of FN009 Black. While the FN009 Black is still wet, sprinkle the SC006 Sunkissed onto that section of the plate, press lightly to help attach to the wet glaze.
Repeat with the remaining colors creatin a color wheel.
Remove the masking tape. Allow to dry!
Stilt and Fire to Cone 06/05.
Additional Adaptations & Tips
Make sure to shake the Stroke & Coats well.
No Glaze needed over top of the Stroke & Coat Colors.
Place one of each of the listed Stroke & Coat colors onto one of each covered plate. Allow the colors to dry out. This may take some time.
Once the colors are dry, break the colors up to create crumbles. Mix all the colors together and place on a paper dinner plate.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour some SG302 Rapid Roll Black Glaze into a small cup. Pour the glaze into the vas and roll the glaze around the inside of the vase slowly covering the inside of the vase. Drain the glaze out of the vase. Leave the vase upside down to fully drain. When the shine is gone, wipe off any spills with a damp sponge. Allow to dry! Note: Do not return any excess glaze back into the bottle to prevent the glaze from being contaminated.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of FN009 Black to the bottom of the vase and 3 coats to the upper rim of the vase. Allow to dry between each coat.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, dampen lower section of the vase with some water. When the shine is gone, apply a coat of FN009 Black. While the FN009 Black is still wet, roll the vase into the plate of crumbles covering the lower section of the vase. Press lightly to help attach to the wet glaze. Allow to dry!
Stilt and Fire to Cone 06/05.
Additional Adaptations & Tips
Make sure to shake the Stroke & Coats well.
No Glaze needed over top of the Stroke & Coat Colors.
The Rapid Roll takes the guess work out of thinning the black or white glaze for inside hard to reach pieces.
Do not return any excess Rapid Roll glaze back into the bottle to prevent the glaze from being contaminated.
Begin by applying two coats of SC015 to the whole face of the tile using a soft fan brush.
After the last layer of black has lost its shine, lay the pattern on top of the tile and gently trace with a pen. Remove pattern.
Using the mini liner brush, trace the lines that were left from the pattern transfer with wax resist.
For the flower petals, blob in EL127 with a script liner brush and immediately force dry with a hairdryer on high until cracks appear in the drying glaze.
For the leaves, blob in EL130 with a script liner brush and immediately force dry with a hairdryer on high until cracks appear in the drying glaze.
For the inside of the flower, blob in EL145 with a script liner brush and immediately force dry with a hairdryer on high until cracks appear in the drying glaze.
For the background, blob in EL149 with a script liner brush and immediately force dry with a hairdryer on high until cracks appear in the drying glaze.
Begin by applying two coats of SC015 to the whole face of the tile using a soft fan brush.
After the last layer of black has lost it’s shine, lay the pattern on top of the tile and gently trace with a pen. Remove pattern.
Using the mini liner prush, trace the lines that were left from the pattern transfer with wax resist.
For the flower petals, blob in CG1014 with a script liner brush and immediately force dry with a hairdryer on high until cracks appear in the drying glaze.
For the leaves, blob in CG987 with a script liner brush and immediately force dry with a hairdryer on high until cracks appear in the drying glaze.
For the inside of the flower, blob in CG753 with a script liner brush and immediately force dry with a hairdryer on high until cracks appear in the drying glaze.
For the background, blob in CG999 with a script liner brush and immediately force dry with a hairdryer on high until cracks appear in the drying glaze.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Quickly run the bowl under water to moisten. This will allow smoother application and blending of the glaze.
Brush 1 coat of FN002 Yellow on the top 1/3 of the bowl.
Brush 2 coats of FN004 Red on the center 1/3 of the bowl. Allow to dry between coats.
Brush a second coat of FN002 Yellow on the top 2/3 of the bowl.
While the FN002 Yellow is still wet, brush a third coat of FN004 Red on the center of the bowl and gradually move the brush upwards towards the top of the bowl, blending the yellow into the red. Spinning the banding wheel will make this process easier. The blending of the yellow and red glaze will create a section of orange in the bowl.
After throwing bowl on the wheel and is soft leather hard, use a #4 Soft Fan Brush (RB-144) apply 2 coats of EG007 Terracotta Engobe to the Inside and outside of the vase, including the bottom.
When engobe has had time to dry, but is still workable, carve leaf pattern from the rim down and on the inside rim of the bowl.
When dry, fire bowl to cone 04 bisque.
After firing moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust. Do not oversaturate the bisque with water.
Apply 3 coats of SW 101 Stoned Denim to entire inside of the bowl and 2” down on the outside of the bowl.
Do not wipe the engobe off the foot of the piece, since engobes do not stick to the kiln shelf.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2-3 coats of FN001 White to the piece. Allow to dry!
You can glaze the inside or the backs of your piece with FN009 Black. Allow to dry!
Balloon Prep – Take the balloon and stretch it a few times. Roll the balloon inside out. Place the pom pom or the marble in the center of the balloon. Next take the rubber band ad tie around the pom pom or the marble. Roll the balloon back to the correct side. Blow up the balloon no bigger than the palm of your hand.
Color prep – Remove the squeeze cap off the SC006 Sunkissed, SC074 Hot Tamale, and the SC097 Cant-elope. Replace with one of the AC224 Plastic Detailer Caps.
Mark where you would like the flowers to be with a pencil.
Squeeze a dot of SC006 Sunkissed in the center area of the flower.
Squeeze 7 dots of SC097 Cant-elope around the center dot.
Squeeze dots of SC074 Hot Tamale in between but just slightly past the SC097 Cant-elope dots.
Take the balloon and center it over the dots of color and press down giving just a slight rocking motion then lift straight up off the surface. Continue doing this for as many flowers you are wanting on the piece. Allow to dry!
Place some SC026 Green Thumb and some SC027 Sour Apple onto a plate.
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner, Load the brush with the SC027 Sour Apple then side load the brush into the SC026 Green Thumb, apply stems to the flowers going to the bottom of the piece.
Reload the CB106 #6 Script Liner as in the previous step and pressure stroke leaves to the sides of the stems. Allow to dry!
Using a CB110 #10/0 liner. Outline the leaves, stems, and flowers in a slight wild fashion with SC015 Tuxedo.
Using the end of a brush handle add dots around the center of the flowers with SC015 Tuxedo. Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to shelf con 06/05.
Optional Way to Apply the Flowers
Place some SC006 Sunkissed in the center of a glazed tile. Place some SC097 Cant-elope on each side of the Sunkissed then Place some SC074 Hot Tamale on each side of the Hot Tamale. Spread out level with a Palette Knife.
Dip the balloon into the color then onto the piece.
Apply the leaves and stems the same way as above.
Additional Adaptations & Tips
You can create any color combination of flowers with any other color Stroke & Coats.
Applying the Stroke & Coat over top of the Foundation Glazes you do not need to Clear Glaze the piece.
The AC224 Plastic Detailer Caps fits on 2oz, 8oz and 16oz squeeze bottles.
Using a damp sponge, wipe off the clay canvases to remove any dust.
Use the Clay Carbon Transfer Paper and a pen to transfer the design from the pattern to the biqsue.
Fill in the following main colors of the project with three coats: EL121 Copper Adventurine for the cloak, EL123 Patina for the hair, EL 125 Sahara Sands for the skin, EL119 Burnished Steel for the Blade. EL136 for the trim on the cloak and blade handle, EL211 Volcanic Glow for the background.
Allow colors to dry and apply one coat of AC302 Wax Resist over the top of the colors.
Using your metal tool or toothpick, scratch lines between the individual colors, and add any accent lines to help detail the image. Your scratch marks should go all the way through the glaze to the bisque.
Using the liner brush, fill in the scratched lines with a puddle coat of the following colors: EL136 Lapis Lagoon for the hair, EL101 Oyster Shell for the damascus steel lines in the blade, EL118 Blue Grotto for the edges of the cloak.
Apply three coats of EL119 Burnished Steel to the edges of the canvases.
Allow the glaze to fully dry, stilt, and fire to cone 06.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust. Do not oversaturate the bisque with water.
With a #4 Soft Fan Brush (RB144) apply 2 coats of EG007 Terracotta Engobe to the outside of the cup, including the bottom.
Apply 3 coats of SW224 Tropical Teal to the entire inside of the cup, and ½” down on the outside of the cup and handle using a #4 Soft Fan Brush.
With a #4 Soft Fan Brush apply 2 coats of SW195 Riptide to the outside of the mug and handle, starting just under the Tropical Teal, stopping 2” from the bottom of the cup.
Do not wipe the Engobe off the foot of the piece since Engobes do not stick to the kiln shelf.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust. Do not oversaturate the bisque with water.
With a #8 Soft Fan Brush (RB140) apply 2 coats of EG006 Sparkle Black Engobe to the entire outside of the vase, including the bottom.
Before the Engobe is completely dry (just when the shine is off) use a cloth or your finger to buff over the Engobe to reveal the sparkle in the Engobe.
Apply 3 coats of SW224 Tropical Teal to the entire outside of the vase stopping about 2” from the bottom of the vase using a #8 Soft Fan Brush.
With a #8 Soft Fan Brush (RB140) apply 3 coats of SW169 Frosted Lemon to the entire inside of the vase and outside over the SW224 Tropical Teal.
Do not wipe the Engobe off the foot of the piece since Engobes do not stick to the kiln shelf.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust. Do not oversaturate the bisque with water.
With a #4 Soft Fan Brush (RB144) apply 3 coats of SW515 Aqua Gloss to the top section and the bottom section of outside of the vase.
Using a #4 Soft Fan Brush apply 3 coats of SW 501 White Gloss to the center of the vase.
Glaze the inside of the vase with a #4 fan brush with SW502 Yellow Gloss.
Applying decorative dots with a #4 Liner brush and #0 Detail Brush with the following colors or colors of your choice. These colors can be layered on top of each other, since they are very opaque and will not show through.
SW501 White Gloss
SW502 Yellow Gloss
SW506 Bright Blue Gloss
SW512 Coral Gloss
SW514 Sage Gloss
SW515 Aqua Gloss
These dots can also be applied with a Detail Bottle, sponge on a stick, back of a fan brush or a toothpick.
Wipe off excess glaze from the bottom of the piece.
Do not stilt
Fire to cone 6
Decorative Gloss Ringed Bud Vase
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust. Do not oversaturate the bisque with water.
With a #4 Soft Fan Brush (RB144) apply 3 coats of SW515 Aqua Gloss to the top and inside of the vase
With the Low Tack Masking Tape, section off random stripes, on the body of the vase, from the top to the bottom.
With a #4 Liner brush glaze inside the masked off section with the following colors or color combination of your choice.
SW502 Yellow Gloss
SW506 Bright Blue Gloss
SW510 Blue Gloss
SW511 Pink Gloss
SW512 Coral Gloss
SW514 Sage Gloss
SW515 Aqua Gloss
Remove tape prior to firing
Wipe off excess glaze from the bottom of the piece.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust. Do not oversaturate the bisque with water.
With a #4 Soft Fan Brush (RB144) apply 3 coats of SW131 Birch to the bottom carved portion of the vase.
Apply 3 coats of SW515 Aqua Gloss to the middle band of the vase using a #4 Soft Fan Brush.
With a #4 Soft Fan Brush apply 3 coats of SW224 Tropical Teal to the inside rim of the vase and to the top 1/3 of the outside of the vase stopping at the center band of SW515 Aqua Gloss.
Apply 3 coats of SW131 Birch to the inside of the vase, overlapping the SW224 Tropical Teal by about ½”.
Using a #4 Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 coats of SW224 Tropical Teal over the top ½ of the SW131 Birch on the outside carved section of the vase.
Fill a Detail Bottle (AC220) with Light Flux SW401 and apply 2 rows of “W”s on the inside of the bowl
Apply thick dots from top to bottom, inside the W loops, with a ½”oval brush or a detail bottle on the inside of the bowl using the following Stroke and Coat:
Row 1: Alternating SC02 Melon-choly and SC89 Cutie-Pie Coral
Row 2: Repeat colors in row 1
Around the top of the rim, apply small dots of SC06 Sunkissed, with a #6 round detail brush, between Melon-choly and Cutie-Pie-Coral
Once dry, using a #8 soft fan brush (RB-140) apply 2 coats over the outside and inside, using EL140 Toasted Almond
Wipe off excess glaze from the bottom of the piece.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust. Do not oversaturate the bisque with water.
Apply 2 coats of EG004 Dark Brown Engobe to the entire outside of the vase using a #4 Soft Fan Brush.
Using a #4 Soft Fan Brush, apply 3 coats of SW129 Copper Float the entire top of the vase stopping just past the rings.
With a #4 Soft Fan Brush apply 3 coats of SW108 Green Tea from the bottom of the rings and ½ way down the outside of the vase.
Pour some SW223 White Milk Glass onto a plate and dip a round cookie cutter into the glaze. Apply random circles over the Green Tea and Dark Brown Engobe.
With a small sponge on a stick, apply dots on top of the Green Tea and to the Copper Float.
With a #4 Soft Fan Brush, apply 3 coats of Green Tea to the inside neck of the vase.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust. Do not oversaturate the bisque with water.
With a #4 Soft Fan Brush (RB144) apply 2 coats of EG007 Terracotta Engobe to the Inside and outside of the vase, including the bottom.
Apply 3 coats of SW221 Mint Speck to the inside and outside of the rim, about 1” down from the top and a 2” band in the middle of the vase using a #4 Soft Fan Brush.
With a #4 Soft Fan Brush apply 3 coats of SW223 Milk Glass over the top ½ of the base, between the 2 bands of SW221 Mint Speck.
With a #4 Soft Fan Brush apply 3 coats of SW223 Milk Glass to the inside of the vase.
Using the #2 Soft Fan Brush, apply 1 light coat of SW401 Light Flux over the top of SW221 Mint Speck, on the outside rim of the vase.
Do not wipe the Engobe off the foot of the piece since Engobes do not stick to the kiln shelf.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust. Do not oversaturate the bisque with water.
With a #8 Soft Fan Brush (RB-140) apply 3 coats of SW204 Amber Topaz to the entire inside and outside of the bowl.
Using a #8 Soft Fan Brush, apply 1 heavy coat of SW189 Cenote to the inside of the bowl, and 2 coats to the outside of the bowl.
Wipe off excess glaze from the bottom of the piece.
Do not stilt
Fire to cone 6
Medium Vintage Mixing Bowl
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust. Do not oversaturate the bisque with water.
With masking tape or using a pencil, section off the inside and the outside of the bowl into 2 sections, one side slightly bigger than the other.
With a #8 Soft Fan Brush (RB-140) apply 3 coats of SW204 Amber Topaz to the entire inside and outside of the bowl on ½ of the bowl.
Using a #8 Soft Fan Brush, apply 1 heavy coat of SW189 Cenote to the inside of the bowl, and 2 coats to the outside of the bowl on the 2nd section of the bowl.
Wipe off excess glaze from the bottom of the piece.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
On the canvas, lay the transfer paper down with your pattern on top. Use a pencil or a pen to trace the image onto the canvas.
Remove the pattern and outline the entire image with FD254 Black Licorice. If using from the bottle only 1 coat is needed. Apply 3 coats if you use a CB110 Mini Liner brush.
Once your outline is dry fill in two of the bottom rows of the hat, one of the stars up top, and one of the boxes on the 4th and 5th firework with SC016 Cotton Tail. Use a RB106 Script Liner brush and apply 3 coats.
Apply SC074 Hot Tamale to fill in two of the bottom rows of the hat, one of the stars up top, and one of the boxes on the 3rd, 4th and 5th firework. Use a RB106 Script Liner brush and apply 3 coats.
Apply SC030 Blue Dawn to fill in the top middle of the hat, one of the stars up top, and one of the boxes on the 3rd, 4th and 5th firework. Use a RB106 Script Liner brush and apply 3 coats.
Apply 3 coats of S2731 Kaboom at the bottom and top of the wiggly lines, then apply 1 coat in the corners over SC030 Blue Dawn in the middle of hat. Use a RB106 Script Liner brush.
In the boxes of the 1st, 2nd and 4th firework fill in with S2731 Kaboom. Use a RB106 Script Liner brush and apply 3 coats.
Once dry, apply 1 coat of SG402 White and made a star outline inside the SC030 Blue Dawn star. Add stripes on the SC074 Hot Tamale star, and the 2nd firework. 1 coat.
Apply SG404 Blue to fill in the thin line at the top of the hat. Add stripes over SC030 Blue Dawn on the 2nd firework and dots on the 5th over top of SC016 Cotton Tail. 1 coat.
Apply SG403 Red to make stripes on the 3rd firework over SC016 Cotton Tail and dots on the SC016 Cotton Tail star, then in the middle of the hat over SC030 Blue Dawn, write the word Liberty. 1 coat.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust. Do not oversaturate the bisque with water.
With a #8 Soft Fan Brush (RB-140) apply 1 coats of SW106 Alabaster to the entire inside of the bowl and to the top ½ of the outside of the bowl,
Using a #8 Soft Fan Brush, apply 3 coats of SW199 Purple Aster to the inside and the outside of the entire bowl.
Wipe off excess glaze from the bottom of the piece.
Do not stilt. Fire to cone 6.
Medium Vintage Nesting Bowl
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust. Do not oversaturate the bisque with water.
With a pencil, lightly divide the inside and outside of the bowl into 2 sections, one side being slightly larger than the other.
Using a #8 Soft Fan Brush, apply 1 coat of SW106 Alabaster to one ½ of the inside of the bowl.
With a #8 Soft Fan Brush apply 3 coats of SW199 Purple Aster to the entire inside of the bowl.
Using a #4 Soft Fan Brush apply 1 coat of SW106 Alabaster to the outside top of the bowl coming down about 3” and to half of the outside section of the bowl.
With a #8 Soft Fan Brush, apply 3 coats of SW199 Purple Aster to the entire outside of the bowl, avoiding the top rim of the bowl.
Apply 3 coats. Of SC076 Cara-bein Blue to the top and outside rim of the bowl using a #4 Soft Fan Brush.
Wipe off excess glaze from the bottom of the piece.
Do not stilt. Fire to cone 6.
Small Vintage Nesting Bowl
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust. Do not oversaturate the bisque with water.
Using a #8 Soft Fan Brush, apply 1 coat of SW106 Alabaster the entire inside and outside of the bowl avoiding the outside textured area of the bowl.
With a #8 Soft Fan Brush apply 3 coats of SW199 Purple Aster to the entire inside and outside of the bowl.
Wipe off excess glaze from the bottom of the piece.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB408 #8 Pointed Round, apply 1 coat of SC033 Fruit Of The Vine to the area under the mushroom top and the top area of the stem. Allow to dry!
With a damp sponge, wipe back the excess color leaving the color in the deep crevices. Allow to dry!
Using a CB408 #8 Pointed Round, Apply 2 coats of SC074 Hot Tamale to the area under the mushroom top and to the top area of the stem right over the previous color. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SC033 Fruit Of The Vine to the lower section of the mushroom stem.
Stir well the SG302 Spearmint Snow Gem then put lid back on the jar and shake well to get the crystals mixed in the glaze. Place some on a paper plate or palette to keep the crystals from settling back to the bottom of the jar.
Using a CB408 #8 Pointed round, apply 2-3 coats of SG304 Berry Snow Gem to the mushroom top avoiding the dots.
Place a teaspoon of SG304 Berry Snow Gem into a small 2-ounce cup then add about 10 – 12 drops of SC033 Fruit Of The Vine, mix well.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 2-3 coats of this mixed color to the dots on the mushroom top. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of S2101 Crystal Clear Brushing glaze to the area under the top of the mushroom and to the mushroom stem. Allow to dry.
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06-05.
Large Pointed Mushroom
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB408 #8 Pointed Round, apply 1 coat of SC012 Moody Blue to the area under the mushroom top. Allow to dry!
With a damp sponge, wipe back the excess color leaving the color in the deep crevices. Allow to dry!
Using a CB408 #8 Pointed Round, Apply 2 coats of SSC011 Blue Yonder to the area under the mushroom top right over the previous color. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SC027 Sour Apple to the lower section of the mushroom stem.
Stir well the SG302 Spearmint Snow Gem then put lid back on the jar and shake well to get the crystals mixed in the glaze. Place some on a paper plate or palette to keep the crystals from settling back to the bottom of the jar.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2-3 coats of SG302 Spearmint to the top half of the mushroom top.
Place 2 teaspoon of SG302 Spearmint Snow Gem into a small 2-ounce cup then add about 10 – 12 drops of SC012 Moody Blue, mix well.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2-3 coats of this mixed color to the bottom half of the mushroom top blending into the color placed on the top half. Allow to dry!’
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of S2101 Crystal Clear Brushing glaze to the area under the top of the mushroom and to the mushroom stem. Allow to dry.
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06-05.
Stoneware Amanita Mushroom
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB408#8 Pointed Round, apply 1 coat of SC033 Fruit Of The Vine to the area under the mushroom top and to the stem. Allow to dry!
With a damp sponge, wipe back the excess color leaving the color in the deep crevices. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of SC074 Hot Tamale to the area under the mushroom top and to the Stem. Allow to dry!
Stir well the SG304 Berry Snow Gem then put lid back on the jar and shake well to get the crystals mixed in the glaze. Place some on a paper plate or palette to keep the crystals from settling back to the bottom of the jar.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2-3 coats of SG304 Berry Snow Gem to the mushroom top. Allow to dry!
Using a DB805 #3 Fan, apply a coat of SC074 Hot Tamale around the edge of the mushroom streaking it from the edge to war the center of the mushroom. Allow to dry!
Make sure to dry foo the piece. Do Not Stilt!
Place on a clean kiln shelf.
Fire to shelf cone 6.
Russula Mushroom
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB408 #8 Pointed Round, apply 1 coat of SC012 Moody Blue to the area under the mushroom top. Allow to dry!
With a damp sponge, wipe back the excess color leaving the color in the deep crevices. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of SSC011 Blue Yonder to the area under the mushroom top right over the previous color. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of SC008 Just Froggy to the stem.
With a damp sponge, wipe back the excess color leaving the color in the deep crevices. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of SC027 Sour Apple to 2 the mushroom stem.
Stir well the SG302 Spearmint Snow Gem then put lid back on the jar and shake well to get the crystals mixed in the glaze. Place some on a paper plate or palette to keep the crystals from settling back to the bottom of the jar.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2-3 coats of SG302 Spearmint to the top half of the mushroom top about halfway down.
Place 2 teaspoon of SG302 Spearmint Snow Gem into a small 2-ounce cup then add about 10 – 12 drops of SC012 Moody Blue, mix well.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2-3 coats of this mixed color to the bottom half of the mushroom top blending into the color placed on the top half. Allow to dry!
Using a DB805 #3 Fan, apply a coat of SC012 Moody Blue around the edge of the mushroom streaking it from the edge to war the center of the mushroom. Allow to dry!
Make sure to dry foo the piece. Do Not Stilt!
Place on a clean kiln shelf.
Fire to shelf cone 6.
Additional Adaptations & Tips if needed.
Make sure to mix the crystals well from the bottom of the jar of Snow Gem.
Placing the mixed color on a paper plate or palette will keep the crystals from settling back in the bottom of the jar.
Be careful not to drag the crystal that it scratches the glaze. If not smoothed out it will fire as a scratch.
By placing a coat of clear glaze on the bisque surface helps keep the Snow Gem from pulling back.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SW233 Milk Glass to the outside of the vase. Do not glaze the bottom of the vase. Make sure to taper the glaze toward the bottom of the vase. Allow to dry!
Using a pencil, sketch a diamond pattern or pattern of your choice around the vase.
Squeeze a small amount of FD258 Pure White French Dimensions out of the bottle. Take off the tip of the bottle, add about 12 -15 drops of SC012 Moody Blue to the bottle and mix well. Replace the tip.
Apply the colored French Dimension to the diamond shapes that you had drawn on the vase. Allow to dry!
Apply a line of FD254 Black Licorice French Dimensions near the bottom of the vase. This will keep the glaze from flowing off the vase.
Stir and shake the CG1010 Periwinkle Sky glaze well. Pour some on a paper plate. This will enable you to get an even application of the glaze because the crystals sink back to the bottom of the jar.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2-3 coats of CG1010 Periwinkle Sky to the outside of the vase going up to the Black French Dimensions line you had applied. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
In a small cup thin some SW001 Clear Glaze tot the consistency of coffee cream. Pour the glaze into one vase at a time. Roll the glaze in the vase coating the inside then slowly pour the glaze out. Leave vase upside down for all the glaze to drain so it does not puddle in the bottom of the vase. Wipe any drips off with a damp sponge. Allow to dry!
Place some of each color Fundamental Underglaze on to a paper plate or glazed tile.
Center the vase on the banding wheel.
Starting at the top section of the vase. While the wheel is spinning, using a CB106#6 Script Liner or a CB602 #2 Soft Fan, apply UG067 Ivory on the bottom section of the top ring then fade into UG 051 China White.
On the middle section of the vase start with UG002 Sea Blue fading up into UG003 Baby Blue.
On the bottom section of the vase start with UG022 Spring Green fading into UG06 Apple Green.
After all the colors have been applied and dried. Sketch your designs or shapes or use the ones on the sample piece using a pencil.
Using the FD258 Pure White French Dimensions that was colored with the SC012 Moodey Blue, apply dots to the tope section of the vase.
Using the FD258 Pure White French Dimensions, apply swirls to the center section of the vase.
Using the FD254 Black Licorice French Dimensions, apply hashtags to the bottom section of the vase. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of FN001 White to the top side of the plate. Allow to dry!
Using AC230 Clay Carbon Paper and a pencil, trace the pattern onto the piece except the lettering.
Using a CB106#6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC076 Cari-bein Blue to the top section of the popsicle.
Using a CB106#6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC016 Cotton Tail to the center part of the popsicle.
Using a CB106#6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC074 Hot Tamale to the bottom section of the popsicle.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 3 coats of SC046 Rawhide to the popsicle stick, while the last coat is still damp, streak in some SC016 Cotton Tail for some highlights. Allow to dry!
Using AC230 Clay Carbon Paper and a pencil, trace the lettering pattern onto the piece.
Squirt some SG401 Black Designer Liner onto a palette. Using a CB110 #10/0 Liner and a CB202 #2 Detail Liner, add some water to the brush and blend with some SG401 Black to slightly thin then paint in the lettering with SG401 Black. Allow to dry!
Using the FD254 Black Licorice and FD258 Pure White French Dimensions, add some highlights to the outer edge of the popsicle and the popsicle stick. Allow to dry!
Using a DB805 #3 Fan, streak some SG404 Blue to the outer edge of the top of the plate. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3-4 coats of FN006 to the back of the plate. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of S2101 Crystal Clear Brushing to the top of the plate. Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06/05.
Additional Adaptations & Tips if needed.
Make sure to glaze is dry before trying to trace on the pattern, if there is any moisture the AC230 Clay Carbon will not work.
All Designer Liners and French Dimensions should be shook/ stirred well in case there is a water head on top of the colors.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of FN001 White to the top of the plate. Allow to dry!
Using AC230 Clay Carbon Paper and a pencil, trace the pattern onto the piece.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round and a CB202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 3 coats of SC074 Hot Tamale to the following letters: H, p, y, t, o, J, l and some of the stars.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round and a CB202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 3 coats of SC076 Cara-bein Blue to the following letters: a, p, 4, h, f, u, y and some of the stars. Allow to dry!
Apply SG410 Bright Blue Designer Liner to the right side of the letters. (Refer to the photo).
Apply SG404 Blue and SG405 Red Designer Liner to the star bursts also add some small dots between the star bursts. Allow to dry.
Using FD258 Pure White French Dimensions, add highlights on each of the letters and the 4.
Optional: The edge of the plate can be banded or not using a banding wheel and SG403 Red Designer Liner. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3-4 coats of FN004 Red to the back of the plate. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of S2101 Crystal Clear Brusing glaze to the top of the plate. Allow to Dry!
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06/05.
Additional Adaptations & Tips.
Make sure to glaze is dry before trying to trace on the pattern, if there is any moisture the AC230 Clay Carbon will not work.
Make sure to shake the Designer Liners and the French Dimensions well in case there is a water head on top of the colors.
Using a damp sponge, wipe down the bisque canvas. Transfer the pattern using AC230 Clay Carbon paper between the bisque and pattern, outline the pattern with a pen or pencil. Remove the pattern and Clay Carbon Paper and go over the line with FD254. Allow to dry. Prepare an eyedropper and small dish filled with rubbing alcohol.
In individual small dishes, prepare 4 to 1 mixtures of glaze to water with the following colors: SC018 Rosey Posey, SC094 Cant-elope, SC029 Blue Grass, SC024 Dandelion, SC015 Tuxedo
Fish
Body: 2 coats of SC024 Dandelion (not watered down) to the body, after the first two coats have dried apply your third coat and immediately apply the SC094 Cant-elope mixture over top. Use a detail liner dipped in rubbing alcohol to create the resist effect rings.
Tail/fins: SC016 Cotton Tail to the fins, face and tail after the first two coats have dried apply your third coat and immediately apply the SC015 Tuxedo mixture over top. Use a detail liner dipped in rubbing alcohol to create the resist effect rings.
Lotus Flowers
Center: Apply 2 coats of SC016 Cotton Tail to the center of the flowers. After the first two coats have dried apply your third coat and immediately apply the SC024 Dandelion mixture over top. Use a detail liner dipped in rubbing alcohol to create the resist effect rings.
Petals: Apply 2 coats of SC103 Lavendear to the petals. After the first two coats have dried apply your third coat and immediately apply the SC018 Rosey Posey mixture over top. Use a detail liner dipped in rubbing alcohol to create the resist effect rings.
Water
Apply 2 coats of SC101 Spruce It Up to the water sections. After the first two coats have dried apply your third coat and immediately apply the SC029 Blue Grass mixture over top. Use the rubbing alcohol filled eyedropper to create the large resist effect rings.
After the canvas has dried, apply three coats of SC029 Bluegrass to the edges of the canvas using the soft fan brush. Allow to dry, stilt, and fire to cone 06.
Additional Adaptations & Tips
If you get too much watered down glaze in an area, use the corner of a tissue to soak up a bit of the excess.
If you get too much glaze on the French Dimensions, take a toothpick to the top of the line to scrape off the unwanted color after the piece has dried.
With a slab roller or rolling pin, roll clay out to approximately ¼” thick.
Using a ruler, cut a 13” x 4” rectangle slab of clay.
With another piece of rolled out clay, cut a 4” circle with a pre-made template or a 4” cookie cutter.
Score and slip the outside side of the circle and inside bottom of the rectangle. Attach rectangle to outside of circle. Score and slip edges of rectangle together to form the cup.
Let clay harden for a little bit to make it easier to work with.
Cut 2 half circles to the front of the cup, spaced about 1” apart.
Attach triangle shaped nose made of clay 1” down between the 2, half circles.
With the back of a needle tool, indent 2 “eyes” under the half circle cut outs.
With a texture tool or needle tool, create texture all over the body of the piece.
When completely dry, fire to cone 04 bisque.
After bisque fire, moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust. Do not oversaturate the bisque with water.
With a #4 Fan Brush apply 3 coats of FN205 Saddle Brown to the bottom half of the piece along with the bottom of the base and 3 coats of FN239 Spiced Cream to the top, ombre where they meet in the middle.
Using a #4 Fan Brush apply 3 coats of CG1008 Blue Guppy to the inside of the cup.
With a RB100 #0 Detail Liner fill in the eyes with SC015 Tuxedo and create 2 little nostril dots on the under side of the nose.
With a slab roller or rolling pin, roll clay out to approximately ¼” thick.
Using a pre-made template (if available) or cookie cutters, cut 5 squares that are 5”x 5”. These will be used as the 4 sides and the bottom of the planter.
With another piece of rolled out clay, cut 2 triangles 5” wide by 3” tall.
Score and slip the triangles to 2 of the 5”x 5” squares. These will be the front and back sides of the planter.
On the remaining 2 sides, use a texture roller to create trees. If texture roller is not available, these trees can be painted or carved on.
Score and slip all 4 sides to the bottom of the planter.
Using a cookie cutter or a needle tool, mark out the windows and the front door, but do not go all the way through the clay.
When completely dry, fire planter to cone 04 bisque.
After bisque fire, moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust. Do not oversaturate the bisque with water.
If desired, you can mask off the around the windows to create crisp lines for the window trim.
Using a RB110 – 10/0 Detail Liner, apply 3 coats of SC016 Cotton Tail around the windows.
With a #4 Soft Fan Brush (RB144) apply 3 coats of SC074 Hot Tamale to the entire outside and bottom of the house, avoiding the inside of the windows, the door and the peaks of the house.
Using brush RB104 #4 Liner, apply 3 coats of SC004 Sunkissed to the window panes.
Apply 3 coats of CG1006 Purple Reign to the door with a #4 Liner Brush (RB104)
With a #4 Fan Brush, apply 3 coats of CG1016 Asteroid to the roof peaks.
With RB104 #4 Liner Brush glaze the trees using SC008 Just Froggy and SC036 Irish Luck.
Create window boxes using SC041 Brown Cow outline and create texture with SC015 Tuxedo. Flowers and leaves using SC033 Fruit of the Vine, SC071 Purple-licious and SC013 Grapel and SC008 Just Froggy
Outline all windows and doors with SC015 Tuxedo along with creating a door handle.
With a #4 Fan Brush, apply 3 coats of FN002 Yellow to the entire inside of the house.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
With a #4 Soft Fan Brush (RB144) apply 3 coats of SW128 Cordovan to the entire inside of the mug and 2” down from the top and 2” up from the bottom on the outside of the mug.
Using a #4 Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 coats of EL207 Gold Mine to the middle of the mug, overlapping the Cordovan by ½” and inch on the top and bottom.
Wipe off excess glaze from the bottom of the piece.
Apply two coats of EG003 Brick Red to the whole mug.
Apply three coats of SW214 Micro Pearl and allow to dry.
Mix up your bubble solution with 6 parts SC031 The Blues glaze, 1 part dish soap, 2 parts water in a small cup. Stir thoroughly with the straw.
Blow the bubbles until they overflow the cup and gently scoop out and place them onto the piece. Allow the bubbles to pop naturally. Repeat until the whole mug is covered.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply SG101 Rapid Roll White to the inside of the vase. Quickly roll for one coat coverage, then tip the vase upside down and allow the glaze to drain until it’s no longer dripping.
On the outside and bottom of the vase apply 2 to 3 coats of SG303. Apply with a RB144 soft fan.
Once dry apply FN016, FN044, and FN052 in small squares or triangles, going from bottom to top in a curved line in the fount of your vase. Apply with a CB202 Detail Liner.
Repeat the same application with FN021, FN037, and FN043 in small squares or triangles, going from bottom to top in a curved line in the fount of your vase. Apply with a CB202 Detail Liner.
Let dry and fire to cone 06.
SG304 Berry Snow Gem Vase:
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply SG101 Rapid Roll White to the inside of the vase. Quickly roll for one coat coverage, then tip the vase upside down and allow the glaze to drain until it’s no longer dripping.
On the outside and bottom of the vase apply 2 to 3 coats of SG304. Apply with a RB144 soft fan.
Once dry apply FN004, FN035, and FN051 in small squares or triangles, going from bottom to top in a curved line in the fount of your vase. Apply with a CB202 Detail Liner.
Repeat the same application with FN012, FN017, and FN036 in small squares or triangles, going from bottom to top in a curved line in the fount of your vase. Apply with a CB202 Detail Liner.
Let dry and fire to cone 06.
SG305 Spearmint Snow Gem Vase:
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply SG101 Rapid Roll White to the inside of the vase. Quickly roll for one coat coverage, then tip the vase upside down and allow the glaze to drain until it’s no longer dripping.
On the outside and bottom of the vase apply 2 to 3 coats of SG305. Apply with a RB144 soft fan.
Once dry apply FN007, FN010, and FN053 in small squares or triangles, going from bottom to top in a curved line in the fount of your vase. Apply with a CB202 Detail Liner.
Repeat the same application with FN019, FN034, and FN041 in small squares or triangles, going from bottom to top in a curved line in the fount of your vase. Apply with a CB202 Detail Liner.
Let dry and fire to cone 06.
Additional Tips
Foundations will pull away from each other while being fired.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply SG 101 Rapid Roll White to the inside of the vase. Quickly roll for one coat coverage, then tip the vase upside down and allow the glaze to drain until it’s no longer dripping.
On the inside of the lip of the vase apply 3 coats of FN021. Apply with a CB604 soft fan.
On the outside and bottom of the vase apply 3 coats of FN044. Apply with a CB604 soft fan.
Once dry apply FN043 and FN016 for the two round lines coming from the bottom of the vase. Apply 3 coats for each round line, using a CB106 Scripted Liner.
Now SG303 for the leaf design that will overlap the round lines. Apply 2 to 3 coats using a CB106 Scripted Liner.
On the rim of the vase apply 2 coats of SG303 with a CB106 Scripted Liner.
Add several dots around the leaf design using SG303, FN037, and FN052. Apply with the round end of a paint brush.
Let dry and fire to cone 06.
SG304 Berry Snow Gem
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply SG 101 Rapid Roll White to the inside of the vase. Quickly roll for one coat coverage, then tip the vase upside down and allow the glaze to drain until it’s no longer dripping.
On the inside of the lip of the vase apply 3 coats of FN0036. Apply with a CB604 soft fan.
On the outside and bottom of the vase apply 3 coats of FN012. Apply with a CB604 soft fan.
Once dry apply FN017 and FN035 for the two round lines coming from the bottom of the vase. Apply 3 coats for each round line, using a CB106 Scripted Liner.
Now SG304 for the leaf design that will overlap the round lines. Apply 2 to 3 coats using a CB106 Scripted Liner.
On the rim of the vase apply 2 coats of SG304 with a CB106 Scripted Liner.
Add several dots around the leaf design using SG304, FN004, and FN051. Apply with the round end of a paint brush.
Let dry and fire to cone 06.
SG305 Spearmint Snow Gem
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply SG 101 Rapid Roll White to the inside of the vase. Quickly roll for one coat coverage, then tip the vase upside down and allow the glaze to drain until it’s no longer dripping.
Outside on the top half of the vase apply FN034 with a CB604 soft fan, apply 3 coats.
Outside on the bottom half of the vase apply 3 coats of FN053. Apply with a CB604 soft fan.
Once dry apply FN019 and FN010 for the two round lines coming from the bottom of the vase. Apply 3 coats for each round line, using a CB106 Scripted Liner.
Now SG305 for the leaf design that will overlap the round lines. Apply 2 to 3 coats using a CB106 Scripted Liner.
In between the top and bottom half of the vase apply 2 coats of SG305 with a CB106 Scripted Liner.
Add several dots around the leaf design using SG305, FN007, and FN041. Apply with the round end of a paint brush.
On a paper plate, marble together SC028 Blue Isle and SC029 Blue Grass. Add drops of SW167 Sand and Sea and marble into the Stroke and Coat with the back of a brush. Set aside the plate to dry. (Best if left overnight or in front of a fan)
Applyu three coats of SW167 Sand and Sea to the stem and two coats to the top of the cap.
Apply three coats of SC028 Blue Isle to the gills of the mushroom and about 1/3 of the way down the stem over top of the Sand and Sea.
Break apart the dried marble glaze mixture into crumbles.
Apply a third coat of SW167 Sand and Sea to the top of the mushroom cap and sprinkle the crumbles onto the wet glaze.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
On the hat and gloves apply 3 coats of SG304 with a soft fan brush.
On the beard apply 3 coats of SC092 with a script liner brush. Once dry take a damp sponge and remove the glaze on the beard until the only glaze left is in the creases of the bread.
Once the beard is dry apply 1 coat of NTBR all over the beard.
Apply 3 coats of SC092 for the shoes using a script liner brush.
Apply 3 coats of SC020 for the nose, using a detail liner brush.
Apply 3 coats of SC085 on the entire sweater with a soft fan brush.
Use SC072 to paint 3 to 4 vertical lines with a detail liner brush, applying 3 coats. Place the lines anywhere you like on the sweater.
In the empty spaces between the SC072 lines, apply SC073 to paint one thicker vertical line with a script liner brush, applying 3 coats.
Next apply SC016 to make 4 to 5 horizontal lines, going all the way around the coat. Apply 3 coats using a detail liner brush.
Where the SC016 crosses over SC072 apply one coat of SC072 to cover SC016.
Where the SC016 crosses over SC073 apply one coat of SC073 to cover SC016.
Let dry and fire to cone 06.
Directions For: MB042 Hooray Gnome
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
On the hat and gloves apply 3 coats of SG305 using a soft fan brush.
On the beard apply 3 coats of SC092 with a script liner brush. Once dry take a damp sponge and remove the glaze on the beard until the only glaze left is in the creases of the bread.
Once the beard is dry apply 1 coat of NTBR all over the beard.
Apply 3 coats of SC092 for the shoes, using a script liner brush.
Apply 3 coats of SC020 for the nose, using a detail liner brush.
Now do 3 coats of SC043 on the entire sweater. Use a soft fan brush.
Apply SC026 to paint 3 to 4 vertical lines. Using a detail liner brush, apply 3 coats. Place the lines anywhere you like on the sweater.
In the empty spaces between the SC026 lines, apply SC031 to paint one thicker vertical line. Using a script liner, apply 3 coats.
Now apply SC016 to paint 4 to 5 horizontal lines going all the way around the coat. Apply 3 coats with a detail liner brush.
Where the SC016 crosses over SC026 apply one coat of SC026 to cover SC016.
Where the SC016 crosses over SC031 apply one coat of SC031 to cover SC016.
Let dry and fire to cone 06.
Directions For: MB043 Hipster Gnome
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
On the hat and gloves apply 3 coats of SG303 using a soft fan brush.
On the beard apply 3 coats of SC092 applying with a script liner brush. Once dry take a damp sponge and remove the glaze on the beard until the only glaze left is in the creases of the bread.
Once the beard is dry apply 1 coat of NTBR all over the beard.
Apply 3 coats of SC092 for the shoes using a script liner brush.
Apply 3 coats of SC020 for the nose using a detail liner brush.
Apply 3 coats of SC093 on the whole sweater. Use a soft fan brush.
Apply SC077 to paint 3 to 4 vertical lines. Using a detail liner brush, apply 3 coats. Place the lines anywhere you like on the sweater.
In the empty spaces between the SC077 lines, apply SC075 to make one thicker vertical line. Using a script liner brush, apply 3 coats.
Now apply SC016 to make 4 to 5 horizontal lines, going all the way around the coat. Apply 3 coats with a detail liner brush.
Where the SC016 crosses over SC077 apply one coat of SC077 to cover SC016.
Where the SC016 crosses over SC075 apply one coat of SC075 to cover SC016.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
With a #4 Soft Fan Brush (RB144) apply 3 coats of EL128 Wheat to the entire inside and outside of the vase, excluding the outside of the ruffle dish at bottom.
Wipe off excess glaze from the bottom of the piece. Do not stilt.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
With a #4 Soft Fan Brush (RB144) apply 3 coats of SW122 Maycoshino to the entire inside of the mug and 2” down from the top of the outside of the mug, just over the rimmed edge and top of the handle.
Using a #4 Soft Fan Brush, apply 3 coats of SW166 Norse Blue to the middle of the mug and handle, stopping 3” from the bottom.
With a #4 brush apply 2 coats of SW172 Macadamia to the bottom of the outside of the mug, starting from Norse Blue down.
Apply 2 coats of EL140 Toasted Almond 2” down on the outside of the mug, just under the rim, over the Norse Blue, stopping a 1/4 “ under the Norse Blue, with a #4 Soft Fan brush.
Do not apply EL140 on top of the SW172 Macadamia.
Wipe off excess glaze from the bottom of the piece. Do not stilt.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of SC014 Java Bean to the bunny. Allow to sit to dry slightly. Using a BT910 Synthetic Sponge, wipe back the SC014 Java Bean leaving the color in the deep crevices. Allow to dry!
Using various size Pointed Round brushes, apply 2 coats of FN205 Saddle Tan to the bunny except the nose, muzzle and inside the ears.
Using a CB406 #6 Pointed Round, apply 2 coats of FN049 Flamingo to the inside of the ears and the nose.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 2 coats of FN001 White to the muzzle and the tail. Lightly sponge some on all the tips of the feet.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 2 coats of FN240 Pumpkin Orange to the carrot and apply 2 coats of FN007 Green to the carrot leaves.
Using a CB408 #8 Pointed Round and a CB602 #4 Soft fan, apply 2 coats of FN056 Heather to the pants.
Using a CB408 #8 Pointed Round and a CB602 #4 Soft fan, apply 2 coats FN032 Canton Jade to the Hat.
Using a CB110 #10/0Liner, apply 2 coats of FN032 Canton Jade to the buttons on the pants and 2 Coats of FN240 Pumpkin Orange to the stitching on the buttons.
Highlight the bottom of the pants with some FN001 White.
Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat Of S2101 Crystal Clear Brushing to the entire piece. Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.
Additional Adaptations & Tips if needed
Most Foundations cover well with 2 coats.
Applying a coat of S2101 Crystal Clear Brushing glaze over the two coats of Foundations will make them more transparent.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a Pointed Round Bush for the size of the areas. Apply the following colors as indicated. Do Not Apply any of the Snow Gems to the bottom of the pieces.
Elephant Facet-ini
Apply 3coats of SC011 Blue Yonder to the inside of the ears, tip of the trunk and the tip of the tail.
Apply 3 Coats of SC027 Sour Apple to the pads of the feet.
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 2 coats of SC016 Cotton Tail to the eye area. When dry apply 2 coats of SC015 Tuxedo to the pupil of the eye.
Using a CB110 #10/0 Liner, outline the eyes with SC015 Tuxedo and apply a highlight to the eye with SC016 Cotton Tail.
Apply 2-3 coats of SG305 Spearmint Snow Gem to the remaining areas of the Elephant’s body.
Lion Facet-ini
Apply 3 coats of SC088 Tu Tu Tango the mane, lip, nose.
Apply 3 coats of SC078 Lime Light to the muzzle, pads of the feet, tip of the tail and inside the ears. Allow to dry!
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 2 coats of SC016 Cotton Tail to the eye area. When dry apply 2 coats of SC015 Tuxedo to the pupil of the eye.
Using a CB110 #10/0 Liner, outline the eyes with SC015 Tuxedo and apply a highlight to the eye with SC016 Cotton Tail.
Apply 2 -3 coats of SG303 Citrus Snow Gem to the remaining areas of the Lion’s body.
Unicorn Facet-ini
Apply 3 coats of SC074 Hot Tamale to muzzle, top of the feet, horn and some of the mane.
Apply 3 coats of SC033 Fruit Of The Vine to the bottoms of the feet, nose, inside the ears and remaining areas of the mane.
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 2 coats of SC016 Cotton Tail to the eye area. When dry apply 2 coats of SC015 Tuxedo to the pupil of the eye.
Using a CB110 #10/0 Liner, outline the eyes with SC015 Tuxedo and apply a highlight to the eye with SC016 Cotton Tail.
Apply 2-3 coats of Berry Snow Gem to the remaining areas of the body.
Apply 1 coat of S2101 Crystal Clear to the eyes and 2 coats to the bottoms of each piece.
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.
Additional Adaptations & Tips if needed
Do Not Apply any of the Snow Gems to the bottom of a piece. This is to prevent any scratching to a surface they may be placed on.
Be careful when applying the Snow Gems, sometimes a crystal could scratch the snow glaze and leave a mark after it is fired.
Excess application can cause the glaze to separate.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use SP211 on the inside, bottom, and handle of the mug. Glaze 3 coats using a Soft Fan brush.
Use 3 coats of SC045 on the outside of the mug using a Soft Fan brush.
Once dry, take the transfer paper and the pattern and trace it onto on side of the mug.
Use 3 coats of SC086 for the paper outside of the cup in the pattern, and SC054 for the paper inside the cup in the pattern. Glaze using a Detail Liner brush.
Use SC065 for the inside of the cup in the pattern. Do 3 coats using a Detail Liner brush.
Outline the cup in the pattern with SC016. Do 3 coats using a Detail Liner brush.
Use SC015 for the body, legs, and dots in at the top of the eyes of the spider. Use SC016 for the base of the eyes.
On the other side of the mug, write a little message to make it more personable. “Dad, if robots take over I’ll still have a job for you..” “Happy Father’s Day”
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Start with SC001, SC016, SC024, and SC085 for your marbling on the inside and handle of your mug. Use a cup to pour your marbled glaze.
Tape the sides of the mug you do not want to marble.
Take your bear pattern and transfer paper onto one side of your mug and trace the pattern with a pencil.
Use SC100 for the outside of the mug, do 3 coats using a Soft Fan brush. Avoid going over the pattern of the bear.
Outline the bear with SC034, doing 3 coats with a Detail Liner brush.
Once dry use SC043 to make stems and grass on the inside bottom of the bear. Add SC001, SC024 and SC085 for the head of the flowers. Do 3 coats of glaze for each color using a Detail Liner brush.
Use SC016 to add hearts around the mug. Do 3 coats using a Detail Liner brush.
On the other side of the mug add names with hearts between them to make it more personalized. Use 3 coats of SC034 with a Detail Liner brush.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Start with 3 coats of FN211 on the inside and outside of the first vase. Use a Soft Fan brush.
Once dry, draw on as many eggs as possible to fill in the space. Then fill in the eggs with 3 coats of FN001 using a Script Liner brush.
Use a toothbrush to splatter FN213 all over the inside and outside of the vase.
With a Detail Liner brush, create any design inside the eggs. Dots, lines, small flowers, etc. Use 3 coats of FN041.
On the bottom and top rim use FN041 with a Script Liner brush.
Let dry then fire to cone 06.
Yellow Vase
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Start with 3 coats of FN232 on the bottom half and 3 coats of FN201 on the top half of the vase. Where the two glazes meet in the middle, blend FN232 and FN201 together to get an ombré effect.
Once dry, draw on as many eggs as possible to fill in the space. Then, fill in half of the eggs with 3 coats of FN001, and the other half with FN002 using a Scripted Liner brush.
On the FN002 eggs use a toothbrush to splatter them with FN001.
On the FN001 eggs use a toothbrush to splatter them with FN002, FN018, and FN051.
On the FN001 eggs, using FN002, FN018, and FN051 make a spiral with small, short lines on the outside and let the glazes mix when changing color, this will add the colors green, purple, and orange to your spirals. Use a Detail Liner brush.
Use the same technique when adding dots in a round fashion on the inside edges on the eggs. Use a Detail Liner brush.
On the inside of the vase do 3 coats of FN201 using a Soft Fan brush, then use a toothbrush to splatter FN002.
On the bottom and top rim use FN002 with a Script Liner brush.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place the following colors on the palette: SC073 Candy Apple Red; SC081 Cinnamon Stix: SC097 Cant-elope.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SC073 Candy Apple Red to the bottom half of the mushroom top, followed by 3 coats of SC097 Cant-elope tot the top half of the mushroom. Use a CB404 #4 Pointed Round to apply the color to the inside of the cut-out areas.
Center the Mushroom on the banding wheel.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, pick up some water on the brush then SC073 Candy Apple Red to half of the brush. Start spinning the banding wheel then apply the brush to the area where the two colors meet and blend the Candy Apple Red into the Cant-elope. The water will help blending the colors. After the Candy Apple has dried some repeat this step with the Cant-elope coming down from the top to the middle blending it into the Candy Apple Red. This will create an hombre look.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SC097 Cant-elope to the underside of the mushroom. Allow to dry.
Place the mushroom into a container that will hold it stable then center on the banding wheel.
Spinning the banding wheel, blend some Candy Apple Red to both the edge of the top and the edge near the stem.
Place the mushroom back right side up.
Blend some SC081 Cinnamon Stix from the bottom edge of the top going up into the Candy Apple Red. Allow to dry.
Place out some of the following colors: SC009 Jaded; SC027 Sour Apple; SC045 My Blue Heaven; SC078 Lime Light.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SC045 My Blue Heave to the top section of the mushroom stem and 3 coats of SC078 Lime Light to the lower half of the mushroom stem. Allow to dry.
Center the Mushroom on the banding wheel.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, pick up some water on the brush then SC078 Lime Light to half of the brush. Start spinning the banding wheel then apply the brush to the area where the two colors meet and blend the Sour Apple into the SC045 My Blue Heaven. The water will help blending the colors. After the Lime Light has dried some repeat this step with the My Blue Heaven coming down from the top to the middle blending it into the Sour Apple. This will create an hombre look.
Blend some SC027 Sour Apple from the bottom edge of the stem going up into the Lime Light but not all the way. Allow to dry.
Blend some SC009 Jade from the top edge of the stem going down into the My Blue Heaven, not all the way. Allow to dry.
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.
Small Mushroom
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place the following colors on the palette: SC013 Graple Red; SC103 Lavendear: SC104 Grape Expectations.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SCo13 Graple to the bottom half of the mushroom top, followed by 3 coats ofSC103 Lavendear to the top half of the mushroom. Use a CB404 #4 Pointed Round to apply the color to the inside of the cut-out areas.
Center the Mushroom on the banding wheel.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, pick up some water on the brush then SC013 Graple to half of the brush. Start spinning the banding wheel then apply the brush to the area where the two colors meet and blend the Graple into the Lavendear. The water will help blending the colors. After the Graple has dried some repeat this step with the Lavendear coming down from the top to the middle blending it into the Graple. This will create an hombre look.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SC103 Lavendear to the underside of the mushroom. Allow to dry.
Place the mushroom into a container (small plastic bowl) that will hold it stable then center on the banding wheel.
Spinning the banding wheel, blend some Graple to both the edge of the top and the edge near the stem.
Place the mushroom back SC104 Grape Expectations from the bottom edge of the top going up into the Graple. Allow to dry.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SC024 Dandelion to the top section of the mushroom stem and 3 coats of SC027 Sour Apple to the lower half of the mushroom stem. Allow to dry
Center the Mushroom on the banding wheel.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, pick up some water on the brush then SC027 Sour Apple to half of the brush. Start spinning the banding wheel then apply the brush to the area where the two colors meet and blend the Sour Apple into SC024 Dandelion. The water will help blending the colors. After the Sour Apple has dried some repeat this step with the Dandelion coming down from the top to the middle blending it into the Sour Apple. This will create an hombre look.
Blend some SC052 Toad-ily Green from the bottom edge of the stem going up into the Dandelion, not all the way Allow to dry.
Blend some SC097 Cant-elope from the top edge of the stem going down into the Dandelion, not all the way. Allow to dry.
Wipe down bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dust.
Apply one coat of EL146 Raincloud to the bottom textured section of the cap.
Apply one coat of CG785 Royal fantasy to the top of the cap, overlapping the Raincloud slightly.
Apply a second coat of EL146 Raincloud to the lower half, overlapping the Royal Fantasy.
Apply a second coat of GG785 Royal Fantasy to the upper half, overlapping the Raincloud.
Apply one coat of PC602 White cascade where the two colors overlap.
Apply one coat of PC601 Clear cascade over the EL146 Raincloud and white cascade.
For the base (stem) of the mushroom, repeat steps 1-6.
Allow to dry, stilt, and fire to cone 06.
Small Mushroom Lantern
Same steps as the Large Mushroom Lantern but done in reverse with CG785 Royal fantasy on the textured areas and EL146 Raincloud on the untextured areas.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a AB710 ¾” Flat Shader, basecoat the top of the mushroom with OS455 Holy Red; under the top and stem with OS440 Burnt Orange.
Using a DB803 #8 Round, drybrush the top with OS449 Bright Red. Then Drybrush the edge and the tip of the mushroom with OS438 Orange Peel blending into the red area. Highlighting with OS435 Dark Yellow.
Dry brush under the top with OS485 Dark Yellow, then with OS434 Lemon Peel, highlight with OS485 French Vanilla.
Drybrush the top of the stem with OS571 Curry then OS436 Gold adding some OS435 Dark Yellow. Highlight with OS785 French Vanilla. Allow to dry!
Using a AB710 ¾” Flat Shater, apply 2 light coats of AC502 to the entire mushroom. Allow to dry between each coat.
Using an AB705 #5 Round, apply AS964 No-Fire Snow to the dots on the top of the Mushrooms.
DO NOT FIRE!
Large Pointed Mushroom
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a AB710 ¾” Flat Shader, basecoat the top of the mushroom and under the top with OS564 Pansy.
Using a DB803 #8 Round, drybrush the top with OS452 Purple.
Using a DB803 #8 Round, drybrush under the top and going up to almost the tip of the top with OS558 Miami Pink, highlight with OS444 Light Pink. Highlight lightly under the top with OS431 White.
Using a AB710 ¾’ Flat Shader, basecoat the stem of the mushroom with OS468 Deep Turquoise.
Using a DB803 #8 Round, drybrush the stem with OS586 Ultramarine. Highlight with OS469 Light Turquoise.
Using the end of a brush handle to add dots of OS431 White to the top of the mushroom. Allow to dry!
Using a AB710 ¾” Flat Shater, apply 2 light coats of AC502 to the entire mushroom. Allow to dry between each coat.
DO NOT FIRE!
Additional Adaptations & Tips if needed.
When drybrusing always go from dark to light colors of the same value.
Any color can be lightened by adding White in the brush.
Paper towels, paper bags or denim material can be used to wipe the color out of the brush.
Make sure not to apply the AC502 Matte Sealer heavy. This can result in the sealer turning milky.
Form
MB1641 Large Rounded Mushroom
MB1642 Large Pointed Mushroom
Colors
AC502 Matte Sealer
AS964 No-Fire Snow
OS431 White
OS434 Lemon Peel
OS435 Dark Yellow
OS436 Gold
OS438 Orange Peel
OS440 Burnt Orange
OS444 Light Pink
OS449 Bright Red
OS452 Purple
OS455 Holly Red
OS468 Deep Turquoise
OS469 Light Turquoise
OS485 French Vanilla
OS558 Miami Pink
OS564 Pansy
OS571 Curry
OS586 Ultramarine
Decorating Accessories
AB710 ¾” Flat Shader
AB705 #5 Round
DB802 #5 Round
DB803 #8 Round
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sponge
Water Bowl
Paper Towels
Pencil
Paper Plates for a Palette
Non-Fired|Earthenware Bisque|Garden
409|403|444
52089
Large and Small Mushroom Lanterns In Bisque Stains
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a AB710 ¾” Flat Shader, base coat both Mushroom Lanterns with OS467 Light Brown. Allow to dry.
In a small cup mix about 2 ounces of AS964 No-Fire Snow with some each of OS467 Light Bron and some OS472 Walnut. This will create the look of the OS467 Light Brown since the No-Fire Snow will lighten the color.
Using a BT910 Synthetic Sponge, sponge a coat of this mix to each of the mushrooms creating stucco type texture. Try to keep the texture even. Apply only to the top of the mushrooms above the ribbed area and to the plain area of the mushroom stems. Allow to dry.
Using a DB803 #8 Round, drybrush the lower texture areas of the mushrooms with OS531 Rosy Tan and the upper areas of the texture with OS493 Sandalwood blending the two colors in the middle. Highlight the top and the top of the stem area with OS472 Walnut.
Using a DB805 #3 Fan, drybrush the ribbed area of the mushroom top and the stem with OS441 Cargo Pants. Then drybrush the edge of the top and the bottom edge of the stem with OS473 Black Brown. Allow to dry!
Using a AB710 ¾” Flat Shader, apply 2 light coats of AC502 Mat Sealer to both Mushrooms, Allow to dry between each coat.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the ruler to mark where the tape will be placed. Make 3 vertical lines with the tape at the 3, 6, and 9 inch mark. Then make one horizontal line with tape going over top the vertical lines at the 3 inch mark on the side of the Rectangle Tray. Tape all 4 sides of the Rectangle Tray to make a border.
Mix SC006 and SC089 together, 50/50 of both glazes. This will the background color for 4 of the boxes. Glaze 3 coats of paint in every other box. Use a Soft Fan Brush.
Mix SC065 and SC070 together, 50/50 of both glazes. This will the background color for the other 4 boxes. Glaze 3 coats of paint in every other box. Use a Soft Fan Brush.
Remove tape while paint is half dry half wet.
Around all boxes, boarder, and back glaze 3 coats of SP245. Use a Flat Shader for the around the boxes and border, then use a Soft Fan brush to glaze the back.
Once all glaze is dry, lightly use a pencil to draw different shaped flowers inside of the boxes.
Use SC006 and SC089 interchangeably to glaze the petals and centers of the flower on top on the SC006 and SC089 mixed boxes. Do 4 coats of glaze for good coverage. Use a Detail Liner Brush.
Use SC065 and SC070 interchangeably to glazes the peddles and centers of the flower on top on the SC065 and SC070 mixed boxes. Do 4 coats of glaze for good coverage. Use a Detail Liner Brush.
Use SC006 and SC089 interchangeably and make the bottom dot the opposite glaze from the peddles of the flower. Once dry, make a smaller dot with the other glaze, on top on the SC006 and SC089 mixed boxes. Use the eraser part of the pencil to make dots.
Use SC065 and SC070 interchangeably and make the bottom dot the opposite glaze from the peddles of the flower. Once dry, make a smaller dot with the other glaze, on top on the SC006 and SC089 mixed boxes. Use the eraser part of the pencil to make dots.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place transfer paper down onto the mug. Place the pattern on top of the transfer paper. Use a pencil to trace the outline of the design.
Remove the design and transfer paper. The image should appear onto your mug.
Using the Script Liner, glaze 3 coats to the face and highlight using SC016.
Using the Script Liner, glaze 3 coats around the face and highlight using SC099. SC099 will also be used for the mouth, nose and hands, which will also need 3 coats of glaze.
Using the Script Liner, glaze 3 coats of SC002 for the heart eyes, phone, and wavy border on the top.
On the right and left side of the image draw 3 hearts. For each heart do 3 coats of either SC002, SC042, and SC085 with a Script Liner.
Do 3 coats of SC015 with a Script Liner on the whole outside base of the mug.
Now with a Soft Fan use SC015 on the inside and handle of the mug. Do 3 coats of glaze.
Using a Detail Spotter write “NO YOU HANG UP FIRST” in SC016, doing 3 coats of glaze. This will go on top and below the SC002 wavy boarder.
Finally, do one coat of SG704 on top of SC015 using a Script Liner around the design and hearts. Then use a Soft Fan Brush for the outside, inside, and handle still using SG704 on top of SC015. Only needs one coat of glaze.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a pencil, trace the patter on the piece with a piece of AC320 Clay Carbon Paper under the pastern.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round and a CB106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC074 Hot Tamale to the cupid.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 3 coats of SC013 Graple to ever other heart and 3 coats of SC070 to the remaining hearts. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN4 Red to the back of the plate.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 1 coat of AC302 Wax Resist to the cupid and the hearts. Be careful not to get any wax on the bisque area of the plate just the Stroke & Coat colors. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of SG702 Speckta-Clear Celebration to the top area of the plate trying to avoiding the colored areas.
Using a damp brush, remove any of the Speckta-Clear Celebration off the waxed areas.
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.
Tips
You can use any of the pink colors of Stroke & Coat or Foundations glazes in place of the ones listed here.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using water-based markers, sketch a floral design onto the surface of the vase. Alternatively, use transfer paper or stencils to transfer an image.
Fill in the design with 2-3 coats of underglaze. Expand the palette by mixing transition colors. Fire to cone 04.
Apply 2-3 coats of SW004 Zinc Free Clear over the flowers and the inside the pot, leaving the background unglazed.
Fire to cone 6.
Additional Adaptations & Tips
Although they can be applied and fired together, applying clear glaze over underglaze that has already been fired prevents potential smearing of underglaze design.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any residue.
Using the #4 Soft Fan for even coverage, apply two full coats of EG005 Black Engobe to the inside and outside of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
In the inside and at the top 1/3rd of the vase, apply two full coats of CG991 Mountain Moss. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Overlapping the CG991 Mountain Moss on the outside of the vase, apply two full coats of CG1009 Cherry Limeade. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to Cone 6.
Additional Adaptations & Tips
Engobes may be applied to the underside of ware.
Typically, Jungle Gem glaze combinations are fluid when fired to midrange temperatures and above. Without texture to melt over and sink into, expect the glaze to drip! Leave plenty of room to avoid unwanted runoff.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any residue.
Using the #4 Soft Fan for even coverage, apply two full coats of EG005 Black Engobe to the inside and outside of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
In the inside and at the top 1/3rd of the vase, apply two full coats of CG991 Mountain Moss. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Overlapping the CG991 Mountain Moss on the outside of the vase, apply two full coats of CG1006 Purple Reign. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to Cone 6.
Additional Adaptations & Tips
Engobes may be applied to the underside of ware.
Typically, Jungle Gem glaze combinations are fluid when fired to midrange temperatures and above. Without texture to melt over and sink into, expect the glaze to drip! Leave plenty of room to avoid unwanted runoff.
Using a #8 Soft Fan brush (RB140) apply 3 coats of SW106 Alabaster to the outside of the bowls, plates and platter.
With a #4 Soft Fan brush (RB144) apply 2 coats of SW104 Ivy in a wavy line around the top inside edge of the bowls and on the carved area for the plates and platter. Recede the second coat.
Apply 3 coats of SC009 Jaded to the entire platter and plates using a #8 Soft Fan brush (RB140).
Apply 3 coats of SC009 Jaded to the entire inside of the bowls and halfway down the outside of the bowls using a #8 Soft Fan brush (RB140).
With a #6 Script Liner (RB106) apply 2 coats of each of the following colors to the inside of the bowls: SW193 Ivy, SW194 Nimbus and SW198 Rose Quartz. Cover the entire inside of the bowls with swirls – they can touch or overlap.
For the platter and plates apply random “plops” the following colors all over the bottom with a ¾ Oval Brush (CB434) SW193 Ivy, SW194 Nimbus and SW198 Rose Quartz – they can touch or overlap. Try to get 3 coats of each “plop”.
For the platter and plates, apply 1 heavy coat of SW401 Light Flux to just the rim, over the carved texture with a #4 Soft Fan brush (RB144).
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
With a #8 Soft Fan Brush (RB140) apply 3 coats of SW502 Yellow Gloss Fluted Dinner Plate
With a #8 Soft Fan Brush (RB140) apply 3 coats of SW503 Orange Gloss Fluted Salad Plate
With a #8 Soft Fan Brush (RB140) apply 3 coats of SW504 Red Gloss Fluted Small Bowl
With a #8 Soft Fan Brush (RB140) apply 3 coats of SW506 Bright Blue Gloss Fluted Oval PlatterWith a #8 Soft Fan Brush (RB140) apply 3 coats of SW507 Bright Green Gloss Fluted Large Bowl
Wipe off excess glaze from the bottom of the piece.
Use the #4 Soft Fan to apply two coats of Ivory Cream to the stems of all three mushrooms.
Select the combination of Jungle Gem colors for the mushroom tops. On the samples shown, the outermost edge and underside had three coats of the listed color applied, and immediately the color listed on the top of innermost part was applied while the first color was still wet, allowing the colors to blend or flow together a little bit. This way you don’t have a perfect line where the colors meet. Note that the matte Jungle Gems don’t move in a cone 06 firing so they will not flow or blend more during firing.
Curly Mushroom – Bottom edge Haystack and top Papaya
Ribbed Mushroom – Bottom edge Periwinkle Sky and top with Frosted Berries
Dotted Mushroom – Outer edge Asteroid and inner top Pink Plum
Use the #10/0 Detail Liner to apply strokes of Juniper on the stem of the mushroom creating grass and stems to the flowers. Notice how the E-Z Strokes can be used on top of the matte Foundation glaze since the glaze does not move so the design stays crisp. Use the other E-Z Stroke colors listed in the materials list to dot small 5 petal flowers randomly on top of the stems of grass around the mushroom. Apply a dot of Butter in the center of each flower.
Stilt and fire to cone 06. The matte Jungle Gems and stem of the mushrooms should fire out with a soft sheen of the matte glaze. A glossier finish can appear with hotter firings.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a pencil, trace the patter on the piece with a piece of AC230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pastern. Place as many heart you desire.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round and a CB110 #10/0 Liner, apply 2-3 coats of SC015 Tuxedo to the umbrella and the kissing couple. Using a CB110 #10/0 Liner stroke in the grass area on the plate.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 3 coats of SC001 Pink-A-Boo to all the hearts you traced on the plate. Allow to dry!
Using a CB110 #10/0 Liner, apply one coat of SC070 Pink-A-Dot creating rain drops.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN049 Flamingo Pink to the back of the plate.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of SG702 Speckta-Clear Celebration to the top area of the plate avoiding the umbrella and the area under the umbrella to the edge of the plate.
Apply 2 coats of NTBR Clear One Brushing to the area under the umbrella, being careful to only apply 1 coat to the kissing couple. Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.
Tips
You can use any of the pink colors of Stroke & Coat or Foundations glazes in place of the ones listed here.
Be careful not to apply the Clear glaze heavy over the SC015 Tuxedo to prevent any milking of the black.
Clear glaze or a Foundations Sheers can be used instead of the Speckta-Clear glaze.
Check the bisque ware over for blemishes. If present lightly sand with 100-grit sandpaper.
Damp sponge the ware to remove any fired dust and to condition the ware for decorating.
Pour an ounce of Cotton Tail in a paper cup and slightly thin with Thin ‘n Shade or water. Mix with a Palette Knife.
Smoothly, in one direction apply three coats of the Cotton Tail over the entire piece. Work horizontally over the ware. Allow the Stroke & Coat to lose its sheen between coats. Set piece aside to dry thoroughly. For best results overnight is a good drying time.
After the piece has dried, wad up a dry paper-towel and lightly buff the front of the canvas down, thus smoothing the Stroke & Coat application.
Using the provided pattern, red pen and clay carbon, trace the design on the front surface of the ware. Try not to score the applied Stroke & Coat.
Before Proceeding, read these instructions carefully.
All the colors are mixed with Thin ‘n Shade.
Thin ‘n Shade should be placed on the palette as well.
When shading and floating in color, the Round brushes should be loaded with Thin ‘n Shade. The Thin ‘n Shade should be removed slightly by tapping the Round gently on to a paper-towel. The towel will remove excess Thin ‘n Shade, however, the brush will still have plenty remaining Thin ‘n Shade.
The Round brushes should only be tipped loaded.
Once loaded, the color and Thin ‘n Shade should be blended together on a clean area of the palette.
Unless otherwise stated, the Round Brushes are held mostly flat against the surface of the ware.
Colors are applied in thin layers, thus generating a watercolor appearance.
Except for the trees, the colors are applied horizontally.
Place all the EZ-Strokes as needed (except Cobalt Jet Black) on to the palette. Thin with Thin ‘n Shade to a light cream consistency and mix with palette knife.
Place a small amount of Thin ‘n Shade on the palette.
Starting with the Sky and using the #8-Pointed Round. Note: Try not to apply the sky colors over the large tree in the foreground. If some color bleeds into the tree do not worry, the tree colors will cover any of the sky colors.
Blend in Cool Blue across the top of the design and down about two inches.
Do not rinse the brush.
Reload as directed with Lilac and streak in this color here and there to the sky. Work the color upward into the Cool Blue.
Rinse the brush.
Pick up Butter and begin to add the color to the middle of the sky Work in as much of the Butter as desired. Note if color appears too strong blend with Thin ‘n Shade or with White.
Add some additional Cool Blue below the yellow. However, be careful not to make a strong green shade.
Again, rinse the brush.
Gingerly tip load in Carrot. Blend this color, just along the lower edge of the sky (the area behind the trees and distant mound).
The lake will have these same colors applied in a similar manner; however, their colorization should be softer and more of the Cool Blue is blended in along the lower edge of the lake. There is a hint of Butter and Lilac also, applied to the Lake. To apply the lake colors, use the #6-Pointed Round.
Tip load the #6-Pointed Round in Thundercloud Grey, fill in the curved line area around the upper edge of the lake. Pull a small amount of the Thundercloud Grey from the edge the lake inward, thus creating a shadow.
To define and shade the snow drifts and the hills in the background use the #6-Pointed Round, tip loaded in Cool Blue. Again, using the brush on the flat, with the point of the brush on the upper side of the snowbank line, add the Cool Blue, floating the color behind each line. Also, float the shading to the lower side of the background hills.
To the foreground snowdrifts, using the #6-Pointed Round, tip loaded in Lilac add accents of color below the blue shaded snowdrifts. The point of the brush is directed up to the line (the opposite direction of the previously applied Cool Blue). Use the Lilac sparingly and do not apply to every drift.
With the Script Liner and the #6-Pointed Round loaded in Juniper Green, stipple in one to two coats of color to the background small trees. The application of color should be somewhat variegated, with more color to the bottom edges of the trees.
When the Juniper Green has dried a little, add shading here and there amongst trees with a stippling of Thundercloud Grey.
The large tree is completed with a varied application of colors. Paint in the tree as follows using the #6-Pointed Round and #2 Script Liner.
Apply Thundercloud Grey tree trunks.
Stipple in Juniper Green to the lower edges of the bough segments. One to two coats.
Over the top of the Juniper Green, stipple in Cool Blue.
Above the Cool Blue, stipple in White.
Again, Thundercloud Grey can be used for shading under the Juniper Green.
With the #2 Script Liner fully loaded with thinned Juniper Green, pull in fine lines of grasses throughout the foreground. These lines should be of varying lengths and amounts per cluster. Note how the lines are pulled out over the lower edge of the lake.
Thin Cobalt Jet Black to a light cream consistency and fully load the Script Liner. Proceed to detail the entire design with fine broken line work. The leafless trees are pulled in at this time. The more detailing the better, especially the large evergreen. This outlining will define the entire design.
Sign the piece.
Carefully stilt the ware and fire to shelf cone 06.
Remove stilt marks with Dremel Tool or Stilt Stone.
Use the CB618 #8 Soft Fan to apply two coats of Marshmallow White the front of the plate and three coats to the back.
Once the second coat on the front is dry, apply a third coat and immediately press the cheesecloth or doily into the wet glaze and allow to dry so the shiny look is gone. It’s best to complete the next steps while the color is still a little damp. Allowing it to dry completely or allowing to sit for days can cause issues or shipping of color when you try to remove the cheesecloth or doily.
Place a little bit of each E-Z Stroke color out on your palette. Dampen the sea wool sponge to soften. Dip a small bumpy area of sponge into one color, blot out a little bit on the palette, and then randomly sponge over areas of the plate. Immediately, dip the same sponge (without washing out) into the next color, and dab in other areas. Continue to do the same with each of the other colors until the plate is covered with color on the front side. Dab the colors so they blend together a little but where they meet.
Remove the cheesecloth or doily once the shiny wet look has gone away with the color. Do it while the color is still damp to avoid chipping color.
Use the round sponge to pick up some E-Z Cobalt black, blot on palette, and lightly dab on the edges of the plate.
Stilt and fire to cone 06. The plate should fire out with a soft sheen of the matte glaze. A glossier finish can appear with hotter firings.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 1 coat of SC083 Tip Taupe to the beard area of the Allow to dry! Using a damp sponge wipe back leaving the color in the deep crevices.
Apply 1 coat of SC014 Java Bean to the stem and underside of the mushroom. Allow to dry! Using a damp sponge wipe back leaving the color in the deep crevices.
Apply 1 thinned coat of SC016 Cotton Tail to the beard then drybrush the beard with 2 coats SC016 Cotton Tail leaving the Tip Taupe show through.
Apply 3 coats of SC020 Cashew Later to the nose.
Apply 3 coats of SC097 Cant-elope to the hat.
Apply 3 coats of SC011 Blue Yonder to the shirt.
Apply 2 coats of SC08 Basketball to the pants.
Apply 2 Coats of SC034 Down To Earth to the tops of the shoes and the belt. Apply 2 coats of SC054 Vanila Dip to the bottom of the shoes.
Apply 1 thinned coat of SC054 Vanila Dip to the mushroom stem, allow to dry then drybrush 2 coats of Vanilla Dip to the mushroom stem except the band around the stem which is 3 coats of SC041 Brown Cow.
Apply a thinned coat of SC041 Brown Cow to the underside of the mushroom top, allow to dry then drybrush 2 of SC041 Brown Cow to the underside of the mushroom top.
Go back and apply a coat of SC014 Java Bean to the deep crevices of the mushroom stem and the underside of the top of the mushroom.
Apply 3 coats of SC080 Basketball to the top of the mushroom. Allow to dry!
Using a sponge, sponge the edge of the mushroom and the top tip with 2 coats of SC054 Vanila Dip.
Apply 3 coats of SC052 Toad-ily Green to the grass area, you can paint under the piece but do not apply any glaze to the foot of the piece.
Using a Sponge, sponge around the edge of the grass area with SC008 Just Froggy then a few brush strokes for some blades of grass.
Make sure to clean off any glaze on the foot of the piece.
Place piece on a clean kiln washed kiln shelf. Do not stilt.
Fire to cone 6 on medium speed.
Trace the pattern onto the piece using AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper and a pencil. You may find it easy to cut slits in the pattern so that it will conform to the shape of the vase.
Using a CB-404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 1 coat of FN055 Bubble Gum to the pink flower petals. Load the brush again with FN055 Bubble Gun and side load in FN025 Raspberry Whip, stroke in each pink flower petal.
Using a CB-404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 1 coat of FN058 Apple Green to the green flower petals. Load the brush again with FN-056 Apple Green and side load in FN021 Olive, stroke in each green flower petal.
Using a CB-404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 1 coat of FN059 Cashmere to the tan flower petals. Load the brush again with FN059 Cashmere and side load in FN060 Mushroom, stroke in each tan flower petal.
Using a CB-404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 1 coat of FN056 Heather to the purple flower petals. Load the brush again with FN-056 Heather and side load in FN018 Bright Blue, stroke in each purple flower petal.
Using a CB-202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 1 coat of FN002 Yellow to each flower centers. Load the brush again with FN02 Yellow and side load in FN0220 Medium Green, stroke in each flower center.
Using a CB-404 #4 Pointed Round, load the brush with FN058 Apple Green then side load in FN020 Medium Green. Stroke both sides of each leaf.
Using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, outline and detail the flower and the leaves with EZ0412 Cobalt Jet Black. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN001 White to the top side of the plate. Allow to dry!
Using a pencil and AC230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern and trace onto the plate.
Using a silk sponge, sponge the sky area wit EZ110 Cool Blue. When dry add some clouds with EZ013 White.
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of EZ109 Creamsicle to the large mushroom tops. When dry, using as silk sponge, sponge lightly the tops with EZ108 Carrot.
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of EZ022 Beige to the stems of the large mushrooms. Shade the stems with EZ107 Butter.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, load the brush with EZ110 Cool Blue then tip in EZ013, apply to some of the mushrooms then detail with EZ110 Cool Blue
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, load the brush with EZ112 Lilac then tip in EZ013, apply to the remaining mushrooms then detail with EZ1112 Lilac and EZ063 Wine Berry.
Using a CB110 #10/0 Liner, apply EZ107 Butter to the flowers pulling the color out from the center area of the flower.
Apply EZ108 Carrot to the flower centers then highlight with EZ107 Butter.
Using a CB308 #8 Square Shader, load the brush with EZ003 Irish Green and side load with EZ028 Leaf Green then stroke in all the leaves around the flowers.
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner, apply EZ022 Beige to all the rocks then shade with EZ010 French Brown.
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner, load the brush with EZ111 Juniper Green, apply to each small leaves then apply a second coat on one side of each leaf.
Using a CB308 #8 Square Shader, stipple EZ033 Ivy Green and EZ028 Leaf Green to the grass areas. Add some EZ107 Butter to the right side and EZ111 Juniper Green to the right side of the grass areas.
Apply irregular shape dots to the tops of the large mushrooms with FD258 Pure White French Dimensions. Allow to dry!
Using a CB110 #10/0 Liner, outline and detail the design with EZ012 Cobalt Jet Black.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN006 Blue to the back of the plate. Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to shelf cone o6.
Tips:
If any of the EZ Stroke colors are thick you can add a drop or two of AS957 Thin N Shade to the color to get it to a brushing consistency.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a pencil, sketch you choice of wording such as here – Happy Birthday. Print the words on the top, in the middle write the words then on the bottom print the words again. Add some stars on each side.
Using a different color Designer Liner color for each Printed letter and for the stars.
Using SG401 Black write the words in the middle of the mug. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of SW001 Stoneware Clear to the inside and the outside of the mug except the foot and center bottom of the mug. Allow to dry!
Remove any glaze that may have gotten onto the foot or bottom of the mug with a damp sponge. Allow to dry!
Place the mug on a clean kiln washed kiln shelf. Do not allow the handle of the mug to hang over the edge of the kiln shelf.
Fire to shelf cone 6.
Tips:
Make sure to shake all the Designer Liner colors well to mix.
Poke the plastic tip of the bottle with the metal tip per instructions on the package.
SG405 Green and SG406 Brown require SW004 Zinc Free Clear Stoneware Glaze to develop the color.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
You will need 2 copies of the pattern. Cut out one copy.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of SC086 Old Lace to the top and side of the tile.
Place the cut out pattern onto the tile while the second coat is still wet. (Paper resist)
Place some AC302 Wax Resist onto a paper plate. Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, pick up some of the Wax Resist and streak it across the tile in a horizontal direction, Creating the look of wood grain. Make sure to clean your Soft Fan brush immediately from the wax resist.
Place some SC052 Toad-ily Green onto a paper plate. Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply the SC052 Toad-ily Green across the tile in a horizontal direction over the pater and the AC302 Wax Resist on the tile with the tree pattern.
Carefully remove the pattern.
Place some of the following colors onto a paper plate, SC024 Dandelion, SC025 Crackerjack, SC052 Toad-ily Green, SC088 Tu Tu Tango.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, on the tree, pick up one of the colors at a time and dab onto the tree and the area below the tree to represent falling leaves. Apply SC025 Cracker Jack to the tree trunk.
On the leaf design, pick up some of each of the colors and blend on the leaf to create a fall looking leaf.
When the glaze is mostly dry. Apply one thick coating of AC302 Wax Resist to the whole face of the tile with a soft fan brush
Allow wax to dry.
Using a pencil or toothpick, carefully carve the outline and detail of both patterns using the second pattern copy as a reference. (Sgraffito)
Carefully brush aside any bits of wax and glaze that came up when carving with a soft brush in a circular motion.
To create the faux Mishima effect, dab FN008 Brown into the carved lines using the CB404 #4 Pointed Round brush.
Allow to dry
Very lightly wipe across the line work with a slightly damp paper towel to remove any excess brown glaze outside the carved lines.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
With a #8 Soft Fan Brush (RB140) apply 3 coats of EG005 Black Engobe to the outside of the bowl.
Apply 3 coats of SP254 Speckled Vanilla Dip to 2/3 of the inside of the bowl with a RB140 #8 Soft Fan Brush.
With a RB140 #8 Soft Fan Brush apply 3 coats of SW503 Orange Gloss to the rim of the bowl along with ½ of the inside of the bowl overlapping the Speckled Vanilla Dip by and inch.
On a plate, using a palate knife, mix SW 508 Black Gloss with AC310 silkscreen medium. This should have a consistency of pancake batter.
Using your finger, apply mixed silkscreen to the pumpkin and cobwebs silkscreen inside the bowl.
Wipe off excess glaze from the bottom of the piece.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 3 coats of SP213 Speckled Grapel the entire outside of the mug and handle with a RB140 #8 Soft Fan Brush
With a RB140 #8 Soft Fan Brush apply 3 coats of SW156 Galaxy to the top 1/3 of the mug, overlapping the Speckled Grapel, and to the entire inside of the mug.
Wipe off excess glaze from the bottom of the piece.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place the clay carbon paper over the front of the canvas. Place fish the pattern on top. Trace over the fish pattern with a pencil. Remove the pattern and clay carbon paper. You should be able to see the fish pattern on the front of the canvas.
Use FD254 Black Licorice to trace over each fish on the canvas. Allow glaze to dry.
Using the Script Liner with CG1011 Frozen Berries, CG1012 Haystack, CG1013 Papaya, CG1014 Pink Plum, CG1015 Cloverfield, and CG1016 Asteroid, apply 2 coats to each fish. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Try to space the colors out over the canvas.
Using the Script Liner with CG1010 Periwinkle Sky, apply 3 coats to the background. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC15 Tuxedo, apply 3 coats to the tail of each fish and the edges of the canvas. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use FD254 Black Licorice to make an eye on each fish.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Tips:
Don’t worry if you get some glaze on the FD254 Black Licorice. The black overpowers most other glazes and will turn out black after firing.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Pure White French Dimensions (FD258), create a small three or four petal flower blob where you’d like the center of your first flower to be.
Using the Detail Liner brush, pull the French Dimension glaze from the center of the glaze line down into the middle of the shape all the way around your small flower.
To add a new petal to the flower, connect the tip of one petal to the tip of the next one with a wiggly U shaped line of FD258.
Pull the FD from the center of the glaze line down towards the middle of each petal.
Repeat steps 3-4 for all petals.
Repeat steps 2-4 for however many flowers you desire on your piece.
Use the French Dimension to create line work leaves to fill in any gaps between the flowers.
Using the Script Liner brush, apply one coat of FN236 Miami Pink to the inside of each petal, butting the color right up to the edge of the main line of French Dimension.
Apply a second coat of FN236 to the petals, but don’t go all the way to the French Dimension line.
Apply a third coat of FN236 going only slightly below where the second coat stops.
Using the Script Liner brush, apply two coats of FN216 Sea Glass to the leaves.
Apply three coats of CG974 Bloomin’ Blue around the flowers, leaves, and stem of the mushroom with the script liner, detail liner, and fan brushes.
Allow project to dry, stilt and fire to cone 06.
Tips:
The thicker the line of French Dimension, the easier it will be to pull texture from the FD line down into the petal.
Allow the French dimension lines to set up briefly before beginning to pull the texture. The texture will disappear if pulled from too fresh of a glaze line.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Trace the pattern on the surface using AC230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern.
To make straight lines on the design you can tape off sections of the snowflake. Note: the masking tape will not stick to any of the glaze when it is wet. Repeat as you go along.
Referring to the pattern, apply 3 coats of the Classic Crackle glaze as noted.
Remove the masking tape then retape another section continuing with the listed colors.
Cut out the large snowflake from the DSS0160 Vintage Holiday Screen.
Apply 3 coats of CC102 Whit to the background area of the design except the outer edge of the canvas.
Apply 3 coats of CC107 Green Tea or CC108 Chia Sea to the side edges of the canvas. Allow to dry!
Outline the snowflake using FD254 Black. Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.
To make the crackle pattern show up, to an area apply some thinned OS476 Black to a section at a time then wipe off with a paper towel or cloth.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
With a pencil, lightly divide the inside of the bowl into 5 horizontal segments.
From top to bottom, the 1st, 3rd and 5th segments will be larger than the 2nd and 4th sections.
With a #8 Soft Fan brush, apply 3 coats of CG1008 Blue Guppy to the 3rd section of the bowl.
With a #4 Soft Fan brush, apply 3 coats of SW173 Amber Quartz to the 2nd and 4th section of the bowl.
With a #8 Soft Fan brush, apply 3 coats of CG1008 Blue Guppy to the 1st and 5th section of the bowl, overlapping the Amber Quartz by about 2”.
Using a #4 Soft Fan brush apply 2 coats down of SW173 Amber Quartz on the 1st and 5th section of the bowl over the Blue Guppy.
With a #8 Flat shader brush, apply 2 coats of CG1008 Blue Guppy down the middle of the SW173 Amber Quartz in section 2 and 4 and 2 coats of SW173 Amber Quartz down the middle of section 3 over the Blue Guppy
Wipe off excess glaze from the bottom of the piece.
Do not stilt
Fire to cone 6
Small Mixing Bowl
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
With a pencil, lightly divide the inside of the bowl into 5 horizontal segments.
From top to bottom, the 1st, 3rd and 5th segments will be slightly larger than the 2nd and 4th sections.
With a #8 Soft Fan brush, apply 3 coats of SW173 Amber Quartz to the 3rd section of the bowl.
With a #4 Soft Fan brush, apply 3 coats of CG1008 Blue Guppy to the 2nd and 4th section of the bowl.
With a #8 Soft Fan brush, apply 3 coats of SW173 Amber Quartz to the 1st and 5th section of the bowl, overlapping the Blue Guppy by about 1”.
Using a #4 Soft Fan brush apply 2 coats down of CG1008 Blue Guppy on the 1st and 5th section of the bowl over the Amber Quartz
With a #8 Flat shader brush, apply 2 coats of CG1008 Blue Guppy down the middle of the SW173 Amber Quartz in section 3 and 2 coats of SW173 Amber Quartz down the middle of section 2 and 4 over the Blue Guppy.
Wipe off excess glaze from the bottom of the piece.
Using a #4 Soft Fan brush glaze the inside of the mug and to the top of flared part of the outside of the mug with 3 coats of Ink Spots CG977. You will also apply 2 coats of Ink Spots to the outside of the handle.
Apply a ghost vinyl resist directly on the outside of the bisque, or if not using a resist, draw the ghost image directly onto the bisque, using a pencil.
With a #8 Soft Fan brush, apply 3 coats of SW508 Black Gloss to the body of the mug, directly over the vinyl resist, or if the resist isn’t being used, gloss around the pencil line of the ghost. You will also apply 2 coats SW508 Black Gloss to the entire inside of the handle and to create the ghost’s eyes and mouth.
With a #8 Round Brush (RB118) apply 2 coats of SW501 White Gloss to the body of the ghost.
Once dry, using a #8 Round Brush, apply 1 light coat of CG302 Snowfall to the ghost. You want this coat to be thin in some spots and thicker in others to create texture.
If using a vinyl resist, remove from the piece before firing.
Wipe excess glaze from the bottom of the piece before firing and do not stilt.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Cut out the large snowflake from the DSS0160 Vintage Holiday Screen.
Tape the edges of each tree branch to keep from getting any of the snowflakes onto the branches.
Divide the tree in half from the top to the bottom to help with snowflake placement.
Mix some SG401Black Designer Liner with AC310Silkscreen Medium to the consistency of peanut butter using a palette knife.
Position the snowflake on the tree starting at the top then apply the Black designer mix using your index finger. Continue working your way down the tree. Some areas will have a half a snowflake. You can get 2-3 prints then you need to clean the screen in water. Do not let any color dry in the screen.
Using a CB110 #10/0 Liner, apply 3 coats of CC108 China Sea to each snowflake.
Remove the masking tape.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of CC107 Green Tea to the back and the branches of the tree. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of CC101 Transparent to the front of the tree over the snowflakes. Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.
To make the crackle pattern show up, to an area apply some thinned OS476 Black to a section at a time then wipe off with a paper towel or cloth.
Start with properly fired cone 04 bisque wiped clean of any dust or debris.
Using a Soft Fan brush, apply 3 coats of Rawhide to the bottom waves.
Using a Soft Fan brush, apply 3 coats of Blue Yonder to the next 2 inches above the Rawhide.
Using a Soft Fan brush, while the Blue Yonder is still wet, apply 3 coats of Cara-bein Blue to the next 2 inches blending into the Blue Yonder. You can wet your brush or apply more Blue Yonder to help blend the two sections together.
Using a Soft Fan brush, while Cara-bein Blue is still wet, apply 3 coats of Sunkissed to the next inch, including the arms blending into the Cara-bein Blue.
Using a Soft Fan brush, while the Sunkissed is still wet, apply 3 coats of Cant-elope to the next inch blending into the Sunkissed.
Using a Soft Fan brush, while the Cant-elope is still wet, apply 3 coats of Tu Tu Tango to the next inch blending into the Cant-elope.
Using a Soft Fan brush, apply 3 coats of Wine About It to the next inch (bottom inch of the top section).
Using a Soft Fan brush, while the Wine About It is still wet, apply 3 coats of Grape Expectations blending into the Wine About It.
Using a Script Liner, create a sun image with Dandelion where the Sunkissed meets the Cara-bein Blue. You can taper the Dandelion down into the Cara-bein blue to create the reflection of the sunset. Apply 3 coats.
Using a Script Liner, dab 2-3 coats of Fired Snow on the wave, arms, and top wisps to create the sea foam and clouds. Dabbing will create a more uneven look.
Using a Detail Liner, apply 3 coats of Tuxedo in small, bent lines in the sky to create the birds.
Using a Detail Liner, apply 2-3 of Fired Snow in wavey lines around the blue sections of the tree to create wave breaks.
Optional: using a Detail Liner, create a crab and starfish at the bottom of the tree using a Detail Liner.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Form
MB1634 Small Jolly Tree
Colors
SC046 Rawhide
SC011 Blue Yonder
SC076 Cara-bein Blue
SC006 Sunkissed
SC097 Cant-elope
SC088 Tu Tu Tango
SC003 Wine About It
SC024 Dandelion
SC104 Grape Expectations
SY546 Fired Snow
SC015 Tuxedo
Decorating Accessories
CB604 #4 Soft Fan Brush
CB106 #6 Script Liner
CB110 #10/0 Detail Liner
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sponge
Water
Low-Fire|Earthenware Bisque|Boxes, Banks & Stuff|Table Top
Using the Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of FN White to the entire bowl and allow to dry.
Trace the pattern onto the bowl and create a border to the inside rim of the bowl.
Using the # 4 Round, apply 3 coats of Sour Apple, Blue Yonder, and Hot Tamale to the areas as shown in the photo, and create a fun border with various sized stripes, allowing some spaces to remain white.
Using the # 4 Round, apply 3 coats of Dandelion to the bells.
Using the Mini Liner, outline and detail the piece with Tuxedo.
Find a simple slab vase template online, or experiment with creating paper templates by folding paper “accordion style” and cutting, like making a paper doll. Unfold and join with tape to check results.
Create a paper template and cut it from a compressed ¼” slab. Assemble the form by slipping and scoring along beveled edges. Weld seams.
With a damp sponge, gently push the seams outward. Pinch and manipulate the protruding seams into undulating waves.
Roll coils and pinch them against the table surface to create flat edges. Score along flat edges and attach. Weld seams.
Set the piece on top of a slab to mark the floor. Cut the floor shape and attach it using the slip and score method. Compress the underside with a rib to prevent cracking and weld the seam upwards.
Smooth and compress the surface. In crevasses where a damp sponge won’t fit, use a brush. Stipple a dimpled texture into the clay using the back of a brush. When covering a large surface area, it may be more comfortable to tape sponges to the handle for an easier grip.
Allow to dry thoroughly and fire to cone 04.
Using CG1003 Peach Party, CG1006 Purple Reign, CG1007 Blueberry Bubblegum and CG1009 Cherry Limeade, loosely apply them in patches until the surface is covered, allowing the patches to overlap.
Roll out a slabof clay for the base and compress both sides with a rib or plastic card.
Cut a random shape from the slab to use as the base and create sand texture by poking the bristles of a stiff brush into the clay.Stack and attach offcuts to give the slab base some dimension.
Roll out a smaller slab and manipulate into a shell shaped shallow bowl. Roll and flatten two small balls of clay and attach flattened balls of clay to the top of the shell bowl. Roll out fivecoils about the diameter of a pointer fingerand length of 6”and cut in half.Attach halves of coils to the back of the shell shape and smooth. Cut off excess coil length. Drape the shell over the empty bowl to create more depth.
Gently roll up the pieces of cut coil into a ball to mimic the look of brain coral. Use the brain coil corals to help prop up the shell bowl onto the base.
Scratch and attach the coral balls, shell, and base all together.
Use the back end of a tool to add some rounded detail to the shell edges. Use a fingertip to smooth the inside of the shell bowl.
Roll out thick coil bits and attach them to create tall coral pieces. Score and slip to the base. Create texture by poking a toothpick end all over the coral.
Create small pinch pots in various sizes for the cup coral.Use the back end of a pencil or tool to help create the small cups and texturize the lip of the cups with toothpick cuts and indents on the sides with the back of a brush. Attach to the base and sides of the shell.
Create ball coral by rolling a variety of small balls of clay and use a sharpened pencil tip and poke to create deep divots. Score, slip and attach to the base and shell.
Allow clay to fully dry and bisque fire to cone 04.
Use soft glaze brushes to apply Jungle Gem colors to each area of the clay creation. Jungle Gems containfrit crystals that melt during firing and give bursts of color. In areas where you want solid color like sand, Stroke & Coat is a great option.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Apply three coats of SC020 Cashew Later to the sandy area of the base.
Apply two coats of CG1003 Peach Party on the outside and Day Lily in the indents of the ball corals.
Apply two coats of CG1005 Maroon Lagoon on the support brain corals (with some extra dots around them for interest).
Apply two coats of CG1008 Blue Guppy on the tall coral.
Apply two coats of CG1007 Blueberry Bubblegum to the outside and two coats of CG1009 Cherry Limeade to the inside of the cup corals.
Apply three coats of CG1004 Berry Tart with two coats of CG1006 Purple Reign layered as accents over the top to the shell trinket dish.
Create a cylindrical vessel with the Broomstick Method using a set of dowel rods with graduating thicknesses. Wedge 2 pounds of clay and slap it into a rough cylinder shape about the size of a soda can. Skewer the center of the cylinder with the smallest dowel. To establish a straight channel through the clay, it may be easier to poke through both sides and meet in the middle.
Holding both sides of the dowel, roll the clay like a rolling pin. As the hole widens, swap the dowel rod for a thicker one and continue rolling. Repeat this step until a cylinder with ¼” walls have taken shape.
Augment the cylinder using gentle pressure with a damp sponge, pressing in from the outside and pressing out from the inside to close the top. When satisfied with the shape, set the piece on top of a slab to mark the floor. Cut the floor shape and attach it to the augmented cylinder using the slip and score method. Compress the underside with a rib to prevent cracking and weld the seam upwards. Cut an optional hole in the top.
After cutting cat ears from the top of the cylinder, carve the cat pattern using a carving tool or dull pencil. Clay carving is best done in the leather-hard stage. Allow clay scraps to dry and sweep away with a fan brush.
Allow to dry thoroughly and fire to cone 04.
Using the sponge, apply SC006 Sunkissed to the top half of the cat.
Using the sponge, apply SC074 Hot Tamale to the bottom half of the cat.
Mix a 1 to 1 ratio of SC074 Hot Tamale and SC006 Sunkissed and sponge mixture in the center of the cat where the two previous colors meet.
Mix a 1 to 1 ratio of SP245 Specked My Blue Heaven and SC013 Grapel and use the Script Liner brush to apply three coats to the tail.
Using the back of the brush, apply dots of the same mixture randomly around the whole cat, avoiding the eyes and tail. Using the Detail liner, go around each dot with a thin one coat band of SC013 Grapel. Using the Script Liner brush, apply SP245 Specked My Blue Heaven in three coats around the previous circles of glaze. Using the Detail liner, go around each ring with a thin coat band of SC013 Grapel.
Mix a 1 to 1 ratio of SC016 Cotton Tail and SC012 Moody Blue. Using the Script liner brush apply three coats of the mixture in a ring around the previous rings of glaze. Using the back end of the brush, apply dots of SC013 Grapel over top of the second ring of SC013.
Apply three coats of SC016 Cotton Tail to the corners of the eye. Apply 2 coats of SC012 Moody Blue to the center of the eyes. In equal parts, mix a small amount of SC016 Cotton Tail, SC012 Moody Blue, SC006 Sunkissed, and SP245 Speckled My Blue Heaven and apply three coats of the mixture to the iris of the eyes.
Fill the designer bottle and writer tip with SC012 Moody Blue. Fill in the carved lines of the cat using the designer bottle of color.
Glaze the inside of the cat with SC012 Moody Blue.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Form
3 lbs of clay of choice
Colors
SC006 Sunkissed
SC011 Blue Yonder
SC012 Moody Blue
SC013 Grapel
SC016 Cotton Tail
SC023 Jack O’Lantern
SC074 Hot Tamale
SP245 Specked My Blue Heaven
Decorating Accessories
Assorted round brushes
Script liner
Detail liner
Clay cutter
Various carving tools
AC219 Writer bottle or squeeze bottle with tip
Miscellaneous Accessories
Toothpick
Dowel rods (24”) of graduating thickness (1/4”, 1/2”, and 1”)
Using the watercolor marker, create a pattern of interlocking loops and swirls.
Using the Script Liner brush, apply 3 coats of EL143 Cactus Flower, EL129 Slate, EL144 Dark Amethyst, EL158 Pine Needles, EL118 Blue Grotto and EL128 Wheat where desired, allowing the colors to overlap slightly.
Using the Soft Fan brush, apply 2 coats of FN009 Black to the back.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze around 1 TBS of SC010 Teal Next Time onto the palette. Thin with around 1 TSP of water. Using the Soft Fan, apply 1 coat to the leaves. Using a damp sponge, wipe off most of the glaze, leaving it only in the crevices. Wipe against the direction of the texture.
Squeeze around 1 TBS of SC033 Fruit of The Vine onto the palette. Thin with around 1 TSP of water. Using the Soft Fan, apply 1 coat to pumpkin. Using a damp sponge, wipe off most of the glaze, leaving it only in the crevices. Wipe against the direction of the texture.
Using the Soft Fan with SC103 Lavendear, apply 2 coats to the pumpkin. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC096 Aqu-ward, apply 2 coats to every other leaf. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC009 Jaded, apply 2 coats to every other leaf. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC010 Teal Next Time, apply 3 coats to the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC001 Pink-A-Boo and SC033 Fruit of The Vine, apply 2 coats to random kernels on the pumpkin. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Small Corn Pumpkin:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze around 1 TBS of SC010 Teal Next Time onto the palette. Thin with around 1 TSP of water. Using the Soft Fan, apply 1 coat to the leaves. Using a damp sponge, wipe off most of the glaze, leaving it only in the crevices. Wipe against the direction of the texture.
Squeeze around 1 TBS of SC003 Wine About It onto the palette. Thin with around 1 TSP of water. Using the Soft Fan, apply 1 coat to pumpkin. Using a damp sponge, wipe off most of the glaze, leaving it only in the crevices. Wipe against the direction of the texture.
Using the Soft Fan with SC001 Pink-A-Boo, apply 2 coats to the pumpkin. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC096 Aqu-ward, apply 2 coats to every other leaf. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC009 Jaded, apply 2 coats to every other leaf. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC010 Teal Next Time, apply 3 coats to the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC103 Lavendear and SC003 Wine About It, apply 2 coats to random kernels on the pumpkin. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
On the dinner plate, using a #8 Soft Fan brush (RB140) apply 3 coats of SW250 White Opal to the entire rim of the plate.
Using a #8 Soft Fan brush, apply 2 coats of SW214 Micro Pearl to the center of the plate.
With a small sponge on a stick, apply 3 coats of SC076 Cara-bein Blue to the rim of plate. If a sponge on a stick is not available, a ½” Oval Brush (CB425) can be used.
With a #8 Round Brush (RB118) apply random spirals of the following colors: SW152 Blue Splatterware and SW123 Sapphire.
Using a #4 Soft Fan brush (RB144) apply 3 coats of SW401 Light Flux to the rim of the plate over the Stroke and Coat “dots.”
Apply 2 coats of SW214 Micro Pearl to the back of the plate.
Fire to cone 6.
Salad Plate:
Wipe dust from bisque with a damp sponge.
On the Salad plate, using a #8 Soft Fan brush (RB140) apply 3 coats of SW501 White Gloss to the center of the plate and to 2/3rd if the plate rim.
Using a #8 Soft Fan brush, apply 2 coats of SW214 Micro Pearl to the remining 1/3 of the plates rim.
On a plate, using a palate knife, mix SW510 Blue Gloss with AC310 Silkscreen Medium. This should have a consistency of pancake batter.
Apply the flower silkscreen DSS149 Designer Silkscreen Flowers 3 XL to the inside of the plate and the rim using the gloss glaze/silkscreen mixture, avoiding 1/3rd of the rim with the SW214 Micro Pearl.
With a #6 Round brush (RB116) apply a thin line (3 coats) of SW152 Blue Splatterware just under the rim of the plate, just under the SW214 Micro Pearl.
Apply 2 coats of SW214 Micro Pearl to the back of the plate.
Fire to cone 6.
Bowl:
Wipe dust from bisque with a damp sponge.
With a pencil, lightly outline where silkscreen will be placed on bowl.
Using a #4 Soft Fan brush (RB144) apply 2 coats of SW501 While Gloss only to the area where the silkscreen will be applied.
On a plate, using a palate knife, mix SW510 Blue Gloss with AC310 Silkscreen Medium. This should have a consistency of pancake batter.
Apply the flower silkscreen DSS149 Designer Silkscreen Flowers 3 XL over the White Gloss.
Using a #8 Soft Fan brush (RB140) apply 3 coats of SW250 White Opal to the inside of the bowl and the rim, avoiding the silkscreen.
With a small sponge on a stick, apply 3 coats of SC76 Cara-bein Blue to the rim of bowl. If a sponge on a stick is not available, a ½” Oval Brush (CB425) can be used.
Using a #4 Soft Fan brush (RB144) apply 3 coats of SW401 Light Flux to the rim of the plate over the Stroke and Coat “dots.”
On the outside of the bowl, apply 2 coats of SW214 Micro Pearl.
When Micro Pearl is dry, apply 2 coats of SW 152 Blue Splatterware over the Micro Pearl.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
In a small cup dilute some FN009 Black with some water to the consistency of coffee cream. Pour this glaze inside the vase and roll the glaze coating the inside. Drain any excess glaze and leave it upside down till the shine is gone to prevent the glaze from pooling in the bottom. Wipe any spills on the outside of the vase with a damp sponge. Allow it to dry.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SC086 Old Lace to the outside of the vase. Allow it to dry!
Thin some SC051 Poo Bear to a skin milk consistency, apply a thin wash to the outside of the vase going in a horizontal direction around the vase. Allow to dry.
Using AC230 Clay Carbon Papper and a ink pen, trace the pattern onto the vase.
Place some SC052 Tod-ily Green and SC008 Just Froggy and SC014 Java Bean onto your palette.
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner, Load the brush with SC052 Toad-ily Green, Strok in each of the leaves with 1 coat. Then, load the brush again and side load with SC008 Just Froggy and stroke in the leaves again keeping the shading to one side.
Mix some SC014 Jave Bean with some SC008 Just Froggy making a green brown.
Using a CB110 #10/0 Liner, apply this mix to all the stems.
Using a CB110 #10/0 Liner, apply SC008 Just Froggy to the word oil.
Place some SC013 Grapel and SC032 Bluebeard on your palette.
Using a CB404#4 Pointed Round, Apply 2-3 coats of SC013 Grapel to each olive.
Using a CB308 #8 Flat Shader or a CB404 #$ Pointed Round, load the brush with SC013 Graple then side load in SC032 Bluebeard and shade each olive.
Using a CB110 #10/0 Liner, outline and detail the leaves with SC015 Tuxedo. Allow to dry
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner brush with SC102 Just Peachy, apply 3 coats to every other section of the pumpkin. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner brush with SP275 Speckled Orange-A-Peel, apply 3 coats to the remaining sections of the pumpkin. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner brush with SC009 Jaded, apply 3 coats to the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Take AC220 Detailer Tips and 1oz Bottles and fill with SG202 White Cobblestone. Use the bottle to make decorative lines on the pumpkin.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Round Hammered Pumpkin:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Take the pencil and make 2 horizontal lines on each section of the pumpkin, dividing it into 3 each equal sections. This will make a checkerboard pattern on the pumpkin.
Using the Script Liner brush with SC035 Gray Hare, apply 3 coats to every other square on the pumpkin. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner brush with SP215 Speckled Tuxedo, apply 3 coats to the remaining squares. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC009 Jaded, apply 3 coats to the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Take AC220 Detailer Tips and 1oz Bottles and fill with SG202 White Cobblestone. Use the bottle to outline the checkerboard pattern on the pumpkin.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Squatty Pumpkin:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan brush with SC001 Pink-A-Boo, apply 3 coats to the pumpkin. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner brush with SC009 Jaded, apply 3 coats to the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Take AC220 Detailer Tips and 1oz Bottles and fill with SG202 White Cobblestone. Use the bottle to make large dots going down each section of the pumpkin.
Fill a Detail Bottle (AC220) with SW401 Light Flux and apply 3 rows of “W”s on the inside and outside of the bowl.
Apply thick dots from top to bottom, inside the W loops, with a brush or a detail bottle on the inside and outside of the bowl using the following Stroke and Coat:
Row 1: Alternating SC013 Grapel and SC033 Fruit of the Vine
Row 2: SC042 Butter Me Up
Row 3: Alternating SC013 Grapel and SC033 Fruit of the Vine
Once dry, using a #8 soft fan brush (RB140) apply 2 coats over the outside and inside, avoiding the very bottom of the inside of the bowl using SW214 Micro Pearl.
Fill a Detail Bottle (AC220) with Light Flux SW401 and apply 6 rows of “W”s on the inside and outside of the bowl.
Apply thick dots from top to bottom, inside the W loops, with a brush or a detail bottle on the inside and outside of the bowl using the following Stroke and Coat:
Row 1: SC073 Candy Apple Red
Row 2: SC075 Orange A Peel
Row 3: SC006 Sunkissed
Row 4: SC026 Green Thumb
Row 5: SC076 Cara-Bein Blue
Row 6 SC033 Fruit of the Vine
Once dry, using a #8 soft fan brush (RB-140) apply 2 coats over the entire inside and outside of the bowl with SW214 Micro Pearl.
Using a #4 soft fan brush (RB144) apply 2 coats of EG002 Speckled Buff Engobe to the outside of the mug, ½ down from the rim, including the handle.
Let dry completely.
Using a pencil, lightly draw sunflower design to the middle of the mug.
With a #6 Round brush (RB116) apply wax resist (AC302) to outline the leaves of the sunflower and anywhere else glaze is not wanted.
Using a #6 Round brush (RB116) glaze sunflower leaves with SC042 Butter Me Up and SC097 Cant-Elope. With the same size brush, glaze the center of the sunflower with SC034 Down To Earth and dots of SC015 Tuxedo.
Apply 3 coats of SW131 Birch to the inside of the mug and the to 2/3 of the outside of the mug, avoiding the sunflower.
With a #4 soft fan brush (RB144) apply 3 coats of SW122 Maycoshino to the bottom 1/3 of the mug and handle.
Using a #4 soft fan brush (RB-144) apply 2 coats of SW002 Speckled Buff Engobe on the entire outside of the mug, starting about ¼” down from the rim.
Let dry completely.
Apply vinyl resist or lightly hand draw with a pencil Monogram pattern on top of engobe.
If using a vinyl resist, apply 3 coats of SW168 Coral Sands over the top 1/2 of the mug, ½ of the handle and the entire inside using a #4 soft fan brush (RB-144).
With a #4 soft fan brush (RB-144) apply 3 coats of SW119 Cinnabar on the bottom ½ of the mug and handle.
Do not fire with vinyl resist left on mug.
If hand drawing a pattern, apply (AC302) wax over the area where glazes will not be needed, using a brush dedicated solely to wax application.
After the removing the vinyl, apply 2 coats of SC043 Lettuce Alone to the Monogram leaves.
Using a #4 soft fan brush (RB-144) apply 3 coats of SP231 Speckled The Blues to the handle of the mug.
Using a #8 soft fan brush (RB-140) apply 3 coats of SW199 Purple Aster to the inside of the mug and the outside rim.
Using a #4 soft fan brush (RB-144) apply 3 coats SW510 Blue Gloss to the bottom of the mug.
Alternating the following colors, create flower patterns in the honeycombs with a 2/0 Detail Liner brush (CB220)
SW502 Yellow Gloss
SW503 Orange Gloss
SW504 Red Gloss
SW505 Purple Gloss
SW506 Bright Blue Gloss
SW507 Bright Green Gloss
SW510 Blue Gloss
SW511 Pink Gloss
SW512 Coral Gloss
Inside the remaining honeycombs, apply 3 coats of SW158 Lilac Matte using a 2/0 Detail Liner brush (CB220) and outlining the honeycomb with SW501 White Gloss.
With a piece of 1/2” low tack masking tape (MC002) mask piece slightly off center down the middle of the bisque.
On the smaller of the 2 sections apply 2 coats of EG002 Speckled Buff Engobe.
On the larger side apply 4 coats of SW251 Pink Opal.
Once the engobe is dry, apply 3 coats of SW162 Pink Matte.
Remove tape.
Down the center of the piece where the tape was, apply 2 coats of SW250 White Opal, then when the White Opal is dry, apply 1 thick coat of SW401 Light Flux.
When the Pink Opal is dry, apply 2 coats of SW219 Opal Luster to the rim and about 1” down.
Using the same about of clay create an additional pinch pot with a hole at the bottom
Flatten 3 small pieces of clay between your palms. Cut these pieces to create two wings of similar shape and size, and one belly piece.
Attach these by slipping and scoring.
Create the feather texture in the wings by pressing the eraser end of your pencil into the wings, creating impressions of the metal fastener of your pencil.
Roll two small balls as the eyes and push the eraser end of your pencil into the center of each ball to create the eyes, flatten the back against the table, slip and score to attach them to the owl.
Take a small piece of clay and mold the beak of the owl, attach this between the two eyes.
Smooth out your connections with your fingers and water.
Once your pot is completely dry, bisque fire your pot to cone 04.
Coat your pot with 3 coats of SC048 Camel Back, covering all spaces but the belly, feet, eyes, and beak.
NOTE: Always allow your glaze to dry completely in between coats.
Using a detail brush add 3 coats of SC011 Blue Yonder to the eyes.
Using 3 coats of SC006 Sunkissed, glaze the belly of your owl.
Using a detail brush apply 3 coats of SC075 Orange-A-Peel, to the feet and beak.
Using a flat surface, mold this into a longer rectangular shape (this will be the shoulders of your robot
Create an additional small rectangular pinch pot that is about ½ of the width of the first but slightly taller
Roll a small coil, about 3 inches long and the thickness of a pencil and one half
Add a ribbed texture to the coil by drawing lines in the clay with your pencil tip
Connect the two pots together using the coil as the neck, the longer pot rim down as the shoulders and the smaller pot rim up as the head. Slip and score to connect these pieces
Flatten two small pieces of clay and cut your desired shapes for the eyes and attach them to the face by slipping and scoring
Smooth out your connections with your fingers and water
Let your pot dry slowly
Once it is completely dry, bisque fire your pot to cone 04
Coat your pot with 3 coats of EL119 Burnished Steel leaving the neck and eyes blank
NOTE: Always allow your glaze to dry completely in between coats
Using a detail brush glaze the eyes and neck with three coats of EL120 Black Ice
Roll your clay out in a slab that is about 7 inches wide and ¾” thick
Smooth your slab out with your rib
Cover your cup with paper to keep clay from sticking to it
Wrap your clay slab around the outside of the covered cup to create a cylinder
Cut the end of the slab so your clay overlaps only ¼”
Attach ends together by smoothing them together with your finger, and use your rib to smooth it further
Once cylinder is created remove the cup from your clay – you may need to twist to get it out
Using your left over slab pieces (you may need to roll out a new piece) cut the base for your tumbler by placing your cylinder on top and tracing a circle
Attach base by slipping and scoring pieces together
Allow to dry until leather hard
Apply 2 coats of Jet Black Underglaze (UG-50) to the bottom half of your mug
Once underglaze is dry, carve your desired texture design using a loop tool
Allow to dry fully
Bisque fire to Cone 04
Wipe your bisqueware with a damp sponge
Apply a heavy coat of UG-46 Bright Yellow, UG-206 Fire Engine Red and UG-1 Kings Blue to the textured parts of your pot- you are trying to get the color to sit down into the texture
Allow underglaze to dry almost all the way
Wipe access underglaze away with a wet sponge, leaving the colors only in the indentations
Allow to dry completely
Clear coat your tumbler by dipping it into clear glaze (S-2000)
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove debris.
Apply 2 coats of SC075 Orange-A-Peel to the top 1/3 and inside of mug.
Using a palette knife, mix SG401 Black Designer Liner with AC310 Silkscreen Medium until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or Designer Liner.
Place the skull design from the DSS0114 Creepy (Dark Elements) Designer Silkscreen around the mug, shiny side down. While holding the screen firmly in the center, take the squeegee and scoop out the premixed silkscreen medium. Firmly run the squeegee across the center of the skull design spreading the medium. Repeat the skull design around the mug.
Using a pencil, lightly trace circles for the eyes.
Using a #8 soft fan brush (RB140) apply 3 coats of SW508 Black Gloss to the entire bowl avoiding the eyes.
Let dry completely.
With a pencil, lightly draw lines that will become “strips”.
Using Wax Resist AC302 in a Designer Liner BottleAC219 or with a #4LinerBrush (RB104) trace the “strip” lines with wax.
Once the wax is completely dry, apply 2 coats of SG202 White Cobblestone with a broad brush #8 soft fan brush (RB140). Avoiding the eyes. *IMPORTANT* Apply the 2nd coat while the 1st coat is still damp. Do not let the Cobblestone to dry between coats. Pattern break-up is determined by the application direction of the brush stroke. Large break up heavier application, small breakup lighter application. If application is too light the cobblestone will not break up. Reapplying and touching up will not achieve a break up.
With #8 Round Brush (RB 118) apply 2 coats of SW501 White Gloss and SW 508 Black Gloss to the eyes.
Using a #4 Liner Brush (RB104) add SC077 Glo-Worm to the whites of the eyes.
Using a #8 soft fan brush (RB140) apply 3 coats of SW106 Alabaster to entire inside of the pie plate.
Using a #8 soft fan brush (RB140) apply 3 coats of SW166 Norse Blue to entire outside of the pie plate.
Let dry completely.
Using a round sponge on a stick, or fan brush apply 2 coats of SC010 Candy Apple Red, SC009 Jaded and SC006 Sunkissed in random circles and sizes on the bottom of the plate.
Using a #4 detail liner, make smaller circles inside the larger circles using the following:
Candy Apple Red with SC088 TuTu Tango, SW505 Purple Gloss, SW508 Black Gloss and lastly 3 dots of SW502 Yellow Gloss and SW508 Black gloss in the center of the flower.
Jaded: SC011 Blue Yonder, SW506 Bright Blue Gloss, SW508 Black gloss and lastly 3 dots of SW510 Blue Gloss and SW508 Black gloss in the center of the flower.
Sunkissed: SC088 TuTu Tango, SW503 Orange Gloss, SW508 Black Gloss and lastly 3 dots of SW504 Red Gloss and SW508 Black Gloss in the center of the flower.
With a #4 liner brush, make stems and leaves on the bottom of the plate with SC036 Irish Luck, filling in the leave and highlighting the stems with SC026 Green Thumb, SC027 Sour Apple and SC015 Tuxedo.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust
Using RB140 #8 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SC015 Tuxedo to the bisque. Allow to dry!
Using scissors to cut out the individual components of the pattern. Trace the pattern randomly onto the piece using AC230 Carbon paper and a pencil. If you feel comfortable, you can also free hand the vines.
Fill the AC219 Designer Bottle with SC027 Sour Apple. Trace over the vine patterns using this green. Only one coast is needed using the AC219 Designer Bottle with the Writer Tip. Rinse the bottle tip after each use.
Fill the AC219 Designer Bottle with SC086 Old Lace, SC073 Candy Apple Red or SC042 to add dots or ornaments of various sizes. Only one coast is needed using the AC219 Designer Bottle with the Writer Tip. Rinse the bottle tip after each use.
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 05-06
Note: If you opt to use a RB110 10/0 Detail Liner in lieu of the AC219 Designer Bottle with writer tip, you will need to paint 3 coats of said color.
Using the Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of Bubblegum to the entire piece.
Using the Clay Carbon paper, trace on the pattern.
Orange pot cactus: Using the Round, apply 3 coats of Glade Green to the cactus, Side load in Olive Green and shade the edges. Apply 3 coats of Orange to the pot. Shade and add doth with Red.
Teal pot cactus: Using the Round, apply 3 coats of Olive Green to the cactus, then side load and shade with Green. Apply 3 coats of Teal Blue to the pot. Shade with Mediterranean Teal.
Ivory pot cactus: Using the Round, Apply 3 coats of Green to some sections then Glade Green to the remaining sections. Shade with the opposite color. Apply 3 coats of Ivory Speck to the bottom area of the pot and 3 coats of Heather to the top rim.
Blue pot cactus: Using the Round, apply 3 coats of Apple Green, then side load and shade with Jade. Apply 3 coats of Cornflower Blue to the pot, and add stripes with Dark Blue.
Yellow pot cactus; Using the Round, apply 3 coats of Yellow to the pot, then side load and shade with Tangerine.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a ruler, measure about 2” from the bottom and draw a line with a pencil. Apply masking tape along the bottom side of the line.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SC009 Jaded to the top side of the piece. Allow to dry!
Apply the Masking tape on the edge of the Jaded and apply 3 coats of SC052 Toad-ily Green to the bottom section of the piece. Allow to dry!
Using AC230 Clay Carbon Paper and an ink pen, trace the pattern onto the Canvas. No need to trace any of the details at this time.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan and a CB106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC045 My Blue Heaven to the ghost.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed round and a CB110 #10/0 Liner, apply SC060 Silver Lining to the cat.
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC014 Java Bean to the pumpkin and 2 coats to the fence.
Shade the fence with SC014 Java Bean in the brush and side load with SC015 Tuxedo.
Using a CB602 #2 Soft Fan, shade the grass area with SC014 Java Bean.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, thin some SC016 Cotton Tail with water then apply clouds in the sky area.
Cut out the pattern around the outer edges of the ghost, pumpkin and cat. Line up the pattern onto the piece. Using AC230 Clay Carbon Papper and an ink pen, trace the all the details onto the piece.
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 2 coats of SC077 Glo-Worm to the cat’s eyes and 2 coats of SC089 Cutie Pie Coral to the cat’s nose and inside the ears.
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 2 coats of SC015 Tuxedo to the eyes and mouth of the ghost and pumpkin also the cat’s eyes. Highlight the ghost and the cat’s eyes with SC016 Cotton tail.
Condition a brush with some hand soap. Place a small amount of AC302 Wax Resist in a small cup. Apply a good coat of the AC302 Wax Resist to all eyes, mouths of ghost and pumpkin also to the cat’s eyes, nose, ears, mouth and whisker, and paw lines.
Using a CB602 #2 Soft Fan and a CB202 # 2 Detail liner, apply 3 coats of SG202 White Cobblestone to the Ghost and Pumpkin. Once the sine is gone apply the next coat.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, Shade the outer edge of the ghost with SC045 My Blue Heaven.
Using a CB602 #2 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of SC097 Cant-elope to the pumpkin. Highlight the pumpkin with SC024 Dandelion and Shade with SC080 Basketball.
Using a CB308 #8 Flat Shader, clean up any color on the mouths and eyes of the pumpkin and ghost. Dampen the area first so you can remove the excess color. This may take a couple of times to remove it all.
Condition a brush with some hand soap. Place a small amount of AC302 Wax Resist in a small cup. Apply a good coat of the AC302 Wax Resist over the Cobblestone on the ghost and pumpkin to protect it.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 3 coats of SG201 Black Cobblestone to the cat.
Using a CB308 #8 Flat Shader, clean up any color on the eyes of the cat, nose mouth and whisker lines and the lines on the paw. Dampen the area first so you can remove the excess color. This may take a couple of times to remove it all.
Condition a brush with some hand soap. Place a small amount of AC302 Wax Resist in a small cup. Apply a good coat of the AC302 Wax Resist over the Cobblestone on the cat to protect it. Allow to dry!
Begin by wiping down the MB1629 Small Snail Planter with a damp sponge to remove dust.
Apply two coats of FN028 to the whole body of the snail, inside and out, leaving the eyes, face and bottom of foot unglazed.
Prep the Mini Liner brush for wax with a coat of soap.
Dip the soaped Mini Liner in wax resist.
Draw the shell line details and any other line work with the wax.
Allow wax to dry.
Using the Script Liner with EL136 Lapis Lagoon, apply 1 coat to every third section of the shell and the upper portion of the foot.
Using the Script Liner with EL130 Sea Green, apply 1 coat to every third section of the shell.
Using the Script Liner with EL153 Caribbean Blue, apply 1 coat to every third section of the shell.
Repeat Steps 4-6 for a second coat of color.
Repeat Steps 4-6 for a third coat of color, but only apply the glaze to the center portion of each section (the inner area ¼” from the edge of each section). It does not have to be exact, just do not glaze right next to the wax line.
Apply three coats of EL101 Oyster Shell to everything but the shell, upper foot, and eyeballs.
Apply three coats of SC015 to the eyes.
Add two small dots of SC016 to the eyes to mimic shine.
Begin by wiping down the MB1630 Small Owl Planter with a damp sponge to remove dust.
Apply two coats of FN028 to the whole body of the owl, inside and out, leaving the eyes, beak, and feet unglazed.
Prep the Mini Liner brush for wax with a coat of soap.
Dip the soaped Mini Liner in wax resist.
Draw the feather details and any other line work with the wax.
Allow wax to dry.
Using the Script Liner with EL128 Wheat, apply 3 coats to the beak and toes.
Using the Script Liner with EL136 Lapis Lagoon, apply 1 coat to a few feathers.
Using the Script Liner with EL130 Sea Green, apply 1 coat to a few feathers.
Using the Script Liner with EL153 Caribbean Blue, apply 1 coat to a few feathers.
Using the Script Liner with EL101 Oyster Shell, apply 1 coat to the main portion of the body.
Repeat Steps 5-8 for a second coat of color.
Repeat Steps 5-8 for a third coat of color, but only apply the glaze to the center portion of each section (the inner area ¼” from the edge of each section). It does not have to be exact, just do not glaze right next to the wax line.
Apply 3 coats of EL130 Sea Green to the outside ring of the eyes.
Apply three coats of SC015 to the eyes.
Add two small dots of SC016 to the eyes to mimic shine.
1. Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04$04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
2. Using a RB144 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN007 Geen to the inside of the Lantern including the cutout openings and just over the top rim edge. Allow to dry!
3. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe any of the green glaze that may have gotten onto the outside of the lantern.
4. Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2-3 coats of CG753 Sassy Orange to the lattice area of the lantern and to the area just below the rim of the lantern. Allow to dry!
5. Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan and a CB106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC074 Hot Tamale to the bottom of the lantern and up to the lattice area.
6. Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC097 Cante-elope to the ring just above the lattice. Allow to dry!
7. Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Form
MB002 Lattice Lantern
Colors
SC074 Hot Tamale
SC075 Orange-A-Peel
CG753 Sassy Orange
FN007 Green
Decorating Accessories
RB106 #6 Script Liner
RB144 #4 Soft Fan
Miscellaneous Accessories
Glazed Tile or a Paper Plate for a Palette
Paper Towels
Water Bowl
Sponge
Low-Fire|Earthenware Bisque|Garden|Home Décor|Table Top
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, apply OS481 Cinnamon to the corn and bottom of the piece. Allow to Dry!
Using a DB803 #8 Round, drybrush the dark-colored corn with OS440 Burnt Orange, 2-3 coats. Then drybrush with OS454 Rust. Highlight some of the corn kernels with OS439 Hot Orange.
Using a DB803 #8 Round, drybrush the yellow-colored corn with OS588 Golden Ochre, 2-3 coats. Then drybrush with OS436 Gold. Highlight with OS432 Ivory then with OS431 White in the brush on some of the corn kernels.
DB801 #3 Round, Drybrush the spotted corn cornels with OS460 Navy then highlight with OS480 Garnet Red. Leave some with just the OS460 Navy.
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, apply OS599 Medium Portrait followed by OS485 French Vanilla then OS431 in the brush.
Using a DB802 #5 Round, drybrush the stem with OS599 Medium Taupe then OS596 Medium Portrait and a light highlighting of OS432 Ivory.
Using a AB709 3/8 Angular Shader, Shade the deep crevices of the corn with OS481 Cinnamon and the corn husks with OS599 Medium Taupe. Allow to dry!
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, apply 2 coats of AC502 Matte Brush on Sealer. Allow to Dry!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, apply OS481 Curry to the corn and bottom of the piece. Allow to Dry!
Using a DB803 #8 Round, drybrush the solid-colored corn with OS588 Golden Ochre, 2-3 coats. Then drybrush with OS436 Gold. Highlight with OS434 Lemon Yellow then some of the corn cornels here and there, drybrush with OS485 French Vanilla then highlight lightly with OS431 White in the brush.
Using a DB803 #8 Round, drybrush the spotted-colored corn with OS588 Golden Ochre, 2-3 coats. Then drybrush with OS436 Gold. Highlight with OS85 French Vanilla then with OS431 White in the brush. Drybrush the spotted corn cornels with OS460 Navy then highlight with OS480 Garnet Red.
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, apply OS599 Medium Taupe to the corn husks and OS489 Saddle Brown to the stem.
Using a DB803 #8 Round, drybrush the corn husks with SS127 Medium Portrait followed by OS485 French Vanilla then OS431 White in the brush. The top area of the corn husks is SS376 Limeburst Highlighted with OS432 Ivory.
Using a DB802 #5 Round, drybrush the stem with OS599 Medium Taupe then OS596 Medium Portrait and a light highlighting of OS432 Ivory.
Using a AB709 3/8 Angular Shader, Shade the deep crevices of the corn with OS571 Curry and the corn husks with OS599 Medium Taupe. Allow to dry!
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, apply 2 coats of AC502 Matte Brush on Sealer. Allow to Dry!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Dilute about a quarter size amount of the Stroke & Coat® colors in separate small cups with two parts water to one part color.
Dab the diluted colors randomly over one half of the vase doing a small area at a time, and wet into wet. You want the colors to bleed into one another, so don’t do blotches of one color in select areas over the entire surface, because the color will dry before you add the two additional colors. You don’t need to wash the brush between colors.
Pick the vase up and allow the colors to move. For additional movement, gently mist the wet colors with water using a mister bottle. Be careful not to add too much water that you completely wash out the color.
Add additional dabs of diluted Stroke & Coat® in some areas to get more intense color.
On the bottom half of the vase, apply three coats of non-diluted Stroke & Coat® color of your choice with a Fan Brush. Stroke & Coat® becomes more opaque with each additional coat and will block out any drips of color on that area.
While the coats of Stroke & Coat® dry, apply optional lines of White Designer Liner following the outlines of color blotches.
When all the colors are dry, apply two coats of clear glaze over the entire tile.
1. Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
2. Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, basecoat SS138 Flat Black to the canvas. Allow to Dry!
3. Using a DB805 #3 Fan Brush, apply 1 coat of MM106 Steel Metallic to the top and sides of the canvas. Make sure to mix the MM106 Steel Metallic well both stirring and shaking. Allow to dry!
4. Using a DB805 #3 Fan Brush, apply a 2nd coat of MM106 Steel Metallic to the top and sides of the canvas. While the MM106 Steel Metallic is still wet/dap, apply a heavy coat of MM305 Rapid rust to the Steel Metallic either with a brush AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, sponging, or spritzing it on. Allow to dry overnight.
5. Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, Apply 2 coats of MM502 Matte Brush on Seale to the canvas over the Steel Metallic. Allow to dry between each coat.
6. Trace the pattern using Graphite Paper or Saral Transfer Paper on to the canvas tree being careful not to smear the tracing.
7. Using an AB705 #5 Round and a AB708 #10 Shader, basecoat the pumpkins with OS484 Persimmon.
8. Shade the pumpkins with OS440 Burnt Orange then OS 438 Orange Peel.
9. Using an AB709 3/8 Angular Shader, Shade the deep crevices and outer edge of the pumpkins with SS024 Chocolate Fudge.
10. Using a DB801 #3 Round, drybrush highlights on the pumpkins with OS435 Dark Yellow.
11. Using a AB704 #3 Round, apply SS194 Medium Taupe to the stems of the pumpkins.
12. Using an AB709 3/8 Angular Shader, Shade the stems with SS024 Chocolate Fudge and sone SS019 Country sage.
13. Using a RB116 #6 Round, apply one coat of SS254 Golde Ochre to each of the sunflower petals.
14. Loade the RB116 #6 Round with OS435 Dark Yello then side load in SS254 Golden Ochre. Stroke in each sunflower petal keeping the Golen Ochre to the same side of each petal.
15. Using a AB704 #3 Round, apply SS024 Chocolate Fudge to the centers of the sunflowers.
16. Using a DB801 #3 Round, stipple SS193 Medium Taupe with a little of SS019 Country Sage to the outer part of the sunflower center and SS138 Flat Black to the center part of the centers.
17. Using a AB704 #3 Round, apply SS045 Buttermilk to the top part of the candle and OS435 Dark Yellow to the bottom of the candle.
18. Using an AB709 3/8 Angular Shader, shade the candle lightly with SS024 Chocolate Fudge.
19. Using a RB116 #6 Round, Apply OS435 Dark Yellow to the flame of the candle then while still wet blend in some OS 438 Orange Peel to create the look of a flame. Mix some SS045 Buttermilk and a touch of SS138 Flat black to create a gray. Paint the candle wick with this mix.
20. Using a AB0704 #3 Round, basecoat the leaf with SS019 Country Sage then Using a AB709 3/8 Angular Shader, shade the leaf with SS057 Accent Green.
21. Using a AB710 #3/4 Shader, apply a thin coat of SS135 White (watery) to create the look of glass then add some highlights.
22. Using an AB704 #3 Round, apply 1 coat of MM102 Copper Metallic to the lantern. Allow to dry! Mix some MM102 Copper Metallic with some MM202 Green Patin together. Apply this mix to the lantern. This will give a Patina finish. Allow to Dry!
23. Using a AB702 #10/0 Liner, outline and detail the lantern and the leaf with SS138 Flat Black. Outline and detail the pumpkins and the sunflowers with SS024 Chocolate Fudge. Allow to dry!
24. Using a AB709 3/8 Angular Shader, shade around the outside of the design with SS024 Chocolate Fudge. Allow to dry!!
25. Using a AB710 ¾ Flat Shade. Apply 2 light coats of MM502 Matte Brush on Sealer to the entire canvas. Be careful not to apply to thick or it turn milky. Allow to dry!!!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, basecoat OS476 Black to the canvas. Allow to Dry!
Using a DB805 #3 Fan Brush, apply 1 coat of MM106 Steel Metallic to the top and sides of the canvas. Make sure to mix the MM106 Steel Metallic well both stirring and shaking. Allow to dry!
Using a DB805 #3 Fan Brush, apply a 2nd coat of MM106 Steel Metallic to the top and sides of the canvas. While the MM106 Steel Metallic is still wet/damp, apply a heavy coat of MM305 Rapid rust to the Steel Metallic either with a brush AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, sponging, or spritzing it on. Allow to dry overnight.
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, Apply 2 coats of MM502 Matte Brush on Sealer to the canvas over the MM106 Steel Metallic. Allow to dry between each coat.
Trace the pattern using Graphite Paper or Saral Transfer Paper on to the canvas tree being careful not to smear the tracing.
Using an AB705 #5 Round and a AB708 #10 Shader, basecoat the pumpkins with OS484 Persimmon.
Shade the pumpkins with OS440 Burnt Orange then OS438 Orange Peel.
Using an AB709 3/8 Angular Shader, Shade the deep crevices and outer edge of the pumpkins with SS024 Chocolate Fudge.
Using a DB801 #3 Round, drybrush highlights on the pumpkins with OS435 Dark Yellow.
Using a AB704 #3 Round, apply OS599 Medium Taupe to the stems of the pumpkins.
Using an AB709 3/8 Angular Shader, Shade the stems with OS472 Walnut and sone OS463 Medium Green.
Using a RB116 #6 Round, apply one coat of OS588 Golde Ochre to each of the sunflower petals.
Loade the RB116 #6 Round with OS435 Dark Yellow then side load in OS588 Golden Ochre. Stroke in each sunflower petal keeping the OS588 Golen Ochre to the same side of each petal.
Using a AB704 #3 Round, apply OS472 Walnut to the centers of the sunflowers.
Using a DB801 #3 Round, stipple OS599 Medium Taupe with a little of OS463 Medium Green to the outer part of the sunflower center and OS476 Black to the center part of the centers.
Using a AB704 #3 Round, apply OS432 Ivory to the top part of the candle and OS435 Dark Yellow to the bottom of the candle.
Using an AB709 3/8 Angular Shader, shade the candle lightly with OS472 Walnut.
Using a RB116 #6 Round, Apply OS435 Dark Yellow to the flame of the candle then while still wet blend in some OS438 Orange Peel to create the look of a flame. Mix some OS 432 and a touch of OS476 Black to create a gray. Paint the candle wick with this mix.
Using a AB0704 #3 Round, basecoat the leaf with OS463 Medium Green then Using a AB709 3/8 Angular Shader, shade the leaf with OS595 Accent Green.
Using a AB710 #3/4 Shader, apply a thin coat of OS431 White (watery) to create the look of glass then add some highlights.
Using an AB704 #3 Round, apply 1 coat of MM102 Copper Metallic to the lantern. Allow to dry! Mix some MM102 Copper Metallic with some MM202 Green Patin together. Apply this mix to the lantern. This will give a Patina finish. Allow to Dry!
Using a AB702 #10/0 Liner, outline and detail the lantern and the leaf with OS476 Black. Outline and detail the pumpkins and the sunflowers with OS472 Walnut. Allow to dry!
Using a AB709 3/8 Angular Shader, shade around the outside of the design with OS472 Walnut. Allow to dry!!
Using a AB710 ¾ Flat Shade. Apply 2 light coats of MM502 Matte Brush on Sealer to the entire canvas. Be careful not to apply to thick or it turn milky. Allow to dry Between each coat!!!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, basecoat OS556 Lemon Grass to the top side of tree. Allow to Dry!
Trace the candy cane pattern using Graphite Paper on one side of the tree being careful not to smear the tracing.
Using an AB704 #3 Round and a AB702 #10/0 Liner, apply OS558 Miami Pink to every other stripe on the candy cane and OS431 White to the other stripe.
Using an AB707 #6 Shader, shade the pink on the candy cane with OS590 Royal Fuchsia with some AS957 Thin N Shade.
Using an AB704 #3 Round and a AB702 #10/0 Liner, apply SS112 White Metallic to the white areas of the candy cane then add a stripe of OS469 Light Turquoise to the center of the white stripe. Outline the candy cane with OS590 Royal Fuchsia.
Using an AB704 #3 Round, apply OS594 Limeburst to the holly leaves.
Using a AB707 #6 Shader, shade the holly leaves with OS595 Accent Green with some AS957 Thin N Shade in the brush.
Using a AB702 #10/0 Liner, Outline and detail the holly with OS595 Accent Green. Add some pine needles with OS594 Limeburst and OS595 Accent Green.
Using a AB704 #3 Round, apply OS455 Holly Red to the holly berries then highlight with OS449 Bright Red. Add some dots of OS455 Holly Red to the pine needles.
Trace the bell & holly pattern using Graphite Paper on the other side of the tree being careful not to smear the tracing.
Using an AB704 #3 Round and a AB702 #10/0 Liner, apply OS435 Dark Yellow to the bells.
Using a AB707 #6 Shader, shade the bells with OS436 Gold with some AS957 Thin N Shade in the brush.
Using an AB704 #3 Round, apply OS594 Limeburst to the holly leaves.
Using a AB707 #6 Shader, shade the holly leaves with SS057 Accent Green with some AS957 Thin N Shade in the brush.
Using a AB702 #10/0 Liner, Outline and detail the holly with OS595 Accent Green.
Using an AB704 #3 Round and a AB702 #10/0 Liner, apply OS588 Miami Pink to the bow and ribbon tails.
Using a AB707 #6 Shader, shade the bow & ribbon tails with OS590 Royal Fuchsia with some AS957 Thin N Shade in the brush. Using an AB702 #10/0 Liner, outline and detail the bow, ribbon tails and the bell with OS476 Black.
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, basecoat OS588 Miami Pink the underside and branches of the tree. Allow to Dry!
Using a AB709 ¾ Angular Shader, shade the pink areas with OS590 Royal Fuchsia and OS594 Limeburst to the green areas. Allow to dry!
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, apply 2 thin coats of AC502 Matte Brush on Sealer to the entire tree, allow to dry between each coat.
Using an AB704 #3 Round and a AB702 #10/0 Liner, apply UM951 Solid Gold to the bell clapper and trim on the bell. Also add SG882 Glittering Gold to the trim of the bell.
Using an AB702 #10/0 Liner, apply AC501 Gloss Brush on Sealer to the holly berries, bell clapper and candy cane.
DB805 #3 Fan Brush, apply AS964 No-Fire Snow to the tips of the branches. Allow to dry!
1. Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
2. Using the Soft Fan with FN001 White, apply 1 coat to the body of the tree. You do not need to glaze the swirls.
3. On the DSS0112 Flowers screen, draw an outline around each flower in permanent marker. Cut them out with excess screen around the edges.
4. Squeeze out around 1 TBS of SC012 Moody Blue onto the palette. Add a pinch of AC310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or glaze.
5. Choose which flowers you would like to use. Place one screen on the tree, shiny-side down. While holding the screen firmly in place, take a small amount of premixed silkscreen medium, and gently rub in circles starting in the center and working outward. Remove the screen. Repeat with the same flower or other flowers.
6. Using the Script Liner with SC012 Moody Blue, apply 3 coats to the swirls. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
7. Using the Soft Fan with NT-BR Clear One Brushing, apply 1 coat to the body of the tree.
1. Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
2. Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of SC025 Crackerjack Brown to each Pumpkin. Allow to dry slightly. With a damp sponge wipe back the color leaving it in the crevice.
3. Using s CB106 #6 Script Liner and a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 costs of El107 Amber Ash to the corn area of the Tall Pumpkin. Allow to dry!
4. Using s CB106 #6 Script Liner and a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 costs of El128 Wheat to the corn area of the Short Pumpkin. Allow to dry!
5. Using a CB202 #2 Detail liner, apply 2 coats of SC003 Wine About It to some of the corn kernels here and there. Do the same thing with SC058 The Blues. This will create the look of Indian Corn.
6. Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of EL140 Toasted Almond to the corn husk area of both corn pumpkins.
7. Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of El113 Spanish Moss to the stem of each corn pumpkin.
8. Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of EL160 Foliage Green applying the color starting at the stem then pulling down into the husks leaving some of the El140 Toasted Almond showing. Also, apply some to the high areas of the stem.
9. Using an AB709 3/8 Angular Shader, shade the deep crevices of the corn to create some depth between them.
10. Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of SG701 Speckta-Clear Stardust to the corn area of the Short Pumpkin. Allow to dry!
Wipe down bisque bowl with a damp cleaning sponge.
Use a RB140 #8 Soft Fan brush to apply three coats of EG002 Speckled Buff to the inside of the bowl. While the last coat is still damp (darker in color but not shiny wet) polish with a shammy cloth of facial tissue without lotion. It’s best to prewash the shammy to soften and make it less abrasive. This shammy material can be purchased at most dollar stores. As you rub in a small circular motion, the engobe will become very smooth and shiny. If it dries completely before polishing, use the soft fan with a little water to dampen the color, wait for shiny wetness to go away, and polish. You may see a small amount of color on the shammy or facial tissue, but not a lot. Polishing the surface will allow you to stamp color, without lifting the engobe color.
Use the RB140 #8 Soft fan to apply two coats of EG005 Black Engobe to the exterior of the bowl. Allow to dry.
Load a sponge roller with EZ012 Cobalt black. Roll the color in thoroughly so you don’t have parts of the roller with little color (showing white areas), and other parts with dripping color. Roll and lift about 20 times for even application.
Gently roll the loaded sponge roller loaded with Cobalt Black over the raised areas of stamp. You will see the shiny wet color on the raised areas.
Quickly lift the stamp and flip it over and place it on the surface of the polished Speckled Buff Engobe area. Hold one side while pressing the other. Switch and hold the other side of the stamp while pressing. Try to do this quickly, or the thin application of color will dry on the stamp. Work your way with various stamps, slightly overlapping each as you cover the entire interior of the bowl. You may only use part of the stamp to fill in areas along the edge of the bowl. Apply color to the stamp each time it is used. It will only stamp once with an application of color. Dry color on the stamp will look greyer in color.
Center the bowl on a banding wheel and use a dagger brush loaded with slightly thinned EZ012 to band the lines around the edge of the bowl.
Load the tip of the DB805 Fan Dry Brush with slightly thinned EZ012 and flick the bristle toward the surface of the bowl to add a speckle over the interior.
Apply two coats of SW001 Stoneware Clear to the inside of bowl. Be careful applying the first coat of glaze since the black EZ Stroke can smear when it gets wet with glaze. (Don’t overbrush.)
Wipe down bisque bowl with a damp cleaning sponge.
Use a RB140 #8 Soft Fan brush to apply three coats of EG002 Speckled Buff to the inside of the bowl.
While the third coat of Speckled Buff is still wet, load the DB805 Drybrush Fan with EZ010 French brown and flick spots of the color over the Speckled Buff. Do the same with EZ012 and EZ038 Medium Mahogany.
Center the bowl on the banding wheel and spin while touching down the RB140 #8 Soft Fan to streak the EZ Stroke colors into the wet Speckled Buff. You need to work quickly while the colors are wet to create a good blend.
Use the RB140 #8 Soft fan to apply two coats of SW199 Purple Aster to the exterior of the bowl.
While the bowl is still centered on a banding wheel, use a dagger brush loaded with slightly thinned EZ012 Cobalt Black to band the lines around the edge of the bowl.
Load the tip of the DB805 #3 Fan Dry Brush with slightly thinned EZ012 and flick the bristle toward the surface of the bowl to add a speckle over the interior.
Apply two coats of SW002 Stoneware Matte Clear to the inside of bowl. Be careful applying the first coat of glaze since the black EZ Stroke can smear when it gets wet with glaze. (Don’t overbrush.)
Using a #4 soft fan brush (RB144) apply 2 coats of EG002 Speckled Buff Engobe to the to the bottom ½ of the mug.
Let dry completely.
When engobe is dry, using a #4 soft fan brush (RB144) apply 3 coats of SW165 Lavender Mist to the outside of the mug, overlapping the engobe by about 2” including the handle.
Apply 3 coats of SW214 Micro Pearl to the outside of the mug, over the Lavender Mist, including the handle and to the entire inside of the mug.
Using a #8 soft fan brush (RB140) apply 2 coats of EG002 Speckled Buff Engobe to bottom ½ of the outside of the bowl.
Let dry completely.
Using a #4 soft fan brush (RB144) apply 3 coats of SW216 Micro Jade to the top 1/2 of the outside of the nesting bowl.
On the top 1/4 of the outside of the bowl apply 3 coats of SW219 Opal Lustre over Micro Jade.
Using a #8 soft fan brush (RB140) apply 3 coats SW219 Opal Lustre to the inside of the bowl.
Using a #4 soft fan brush (RB144) apply 3 coats of SW217 Micro Cerulean over the Opal Lustre, about 3” down from the top and in the middle of the inside of the bowl.
Apply a third coat to the neck of the vase. This will result in a rougher textured finish.
Heat kiln to 1850°F.
At 1850°F carefully remove piece from kiln with metal tongs, and place into trash can with combustibles. Quickly place lid over can, causing reduction to occur.
Allow the combustion chamber to cool. Remove the pot and wipe carbon residue off with clean cloth.
Using a #4 soft fan brush (RB144) apply 3 coats of EG002 Speckled Buff Engobe to the mug starting just below the lip of the mug.
Let dry completely.
Using a #4 soft fan brush (RB144) apply 2 coats of SW141 White Matte to entire mug, over the engobe, stopping 2/3 from the bottom.
In a ½ circle, apply 2 coats of SC097 Cant-Elope to create the sun.
While the White Matte is still damp, carve the “rays” of the sun.
Once the mug is dry, use the #8 Round brush (RB118) and apply 2 coats of SW001 Stoneware Clear over the rays. If this step is eliminated, overglaze will not be glossy, it will be matte.
Fire to cone 6
After cone 6 firing, apply lines of OG805 Premium Gold overglaze on the “rays”
Let overglaze dry completely then fire to cone 019.
Using a #4 soft fan brush (RB144) apply 2 coats of EG004 Dark Brown Engobe to the bottom 2/3 of the mug and bottom 2/3 of handle.
Let dry completely.
Using #4 soft fan brush (RB144) apply 3 coats of SW199 Purple Aster to top ½ of mug and entire inside of the mug.
When engobe is completely dry, apply 3 coats of the following Stroke and Coat® glazes, in 2” bands in the middle of the mug:
SC033 Fruit of the Vine
SC045 Blue Yonder
SC031 The Blues
Before Stroke and Coat® dries, using the carving tool of your choice, carve pattern into the Stroke and Coat, carefully not to carve through the engobe.
Using a #8 soft fan brush (RB140) apply 2 coats of EG002 Speckled BuffEngobe to entire bowl.
Let dry completely.
Apply vinyl resist or lightly hand draw with a pencil leaf pattern on top of engobe.
If using a vinyl resist, apply 3 coats of SW166 Norse Blue over entire engobe. Remove resist before the Engobe dries completely prior to firing. Do not fire with vinyl resist left on mug.
If hand drawing a pattern, apply (AC302) Wax Resist over the area where glaze will not be needed, using a brush dedicated solely to wax application.
When wax is completely dry, apply 3 coats of SW166 Norse Blue over entire bowl.
Fire to cone 6.
Medium Nesting Bowl:
Wipe dust from bisque with a damp sponge
Using a #8 soft fan brush (RB140) apply 2 coats of EG004 Dark BrownEngobe to entire bowl.
Let dry completely.
Apply vinyl resist or lightly hand draw with a pencil leaf pattern on top of engobe.
If using a vinyl resist, apply 3 coats of SW172 Macadamia over entire Engobe. Remove resist before the Engobe dries completely prior to firing. Do not fire with vinyl resist left on mug.
If hand drawing a pattern, apply (AC302) Wax Resist over the area where glaze will not be needed, using a brush dedicated solely to wax application.
When wax is completely dry, apply 3 coats of SW172 Macadamia over entire bowl.
Using a #4 soft fan brush (RB-144) apply 2 coats of SW 002 Speckled BuffEngobe to the bottom 2/3 of the mug and bottom 2/3 of handle.
Let dry completely.
Apply vinyl resist or lightly hand draw with a pencil leaf pattern on top of engobe.
If using a vinyl resist, apply 2 coats of Brick Red Engobe over entire Speckled Buff Engobe. Remove resist before the Brick Red Engobe dries completely prior to firing. Do not fire with vinyl resist left on mug.
If hand drawing a pattern, apply (AC302) Wax Resist over the area where Brick Red Engobe will not be needed, using a brush dedicated solely to wax application.
When wax is completely dry, apply 2 coats of Brick Red Engobe over entire Speckled Buff Engobe.
When engobe is dry, apply 3 coats of SW166Norse Blueto top 1/3 of the mug and the top of handle.
Using a #8 Round Brush (RB118) apply random stripes of EG002 Speckled Buff Engobe and EG004 Dark Brown Engobe to the bottom 2/3 of the mug and bottom 2/3 of handle.
Let dry completely.
Using #4 soft fan brush (RB144) apply 3 coats of SW196 Sand Dollar to top ½ of mug and handle along with the entire inside of the mug.
Using a #8 soft fan brush (RB140) apply 3 coats of SW216 Micro Jade to the top 1/3 of the vase.
Let dry completely.
With a #6 round brush (RB116) apply random lines and patterns of EG002 Speckled Buff Engobe and EG004 Dark Brown Engobe to body of the vase, creating the camo effect.
With a pencil, lightly divide the vase into 4 equal parts horizontally.
Using a #8 soft fan brush (RB-140) apply 2 coats of the following engobes, top to bottom:
EG002 Speckled Buff Engobe
EG003 Brick Red Engobe
EG004 Dark Brown Engobe
EG005 Black Engobe
Let dry completely.
Apply vinyl resist or lightly hand draw a pencil leaf pattern on top of engobes.
If using a vinyl resist, apply 3 coats of SW176 Macadamia over entire vase. Remove resist before the glaze dries completely prior to firing. Do not fire with vinyl resist left on mug.
If hand drawing a pattern, apply (AC302) wax over the area where the Macadamia will not be, using a brush dedicated solely to wax application.
Begin by wiping down the MB1359 Asian Dragon Bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dust.
Using the soft fan brush, apply two coats of FN009 Black allowing the glaze to dry between coats.
With a damp sponge, softly wipe back the black glaze from the raised textures on the dragon.
Lightly hit the wiped back sections of the bique with the sanding pad to bring out the white of the bisque.
Using the fan, script liner, and detail liner brushes, apply the Jungle Gems to the following areas with two coats of glaze:
S2723 Grape Divine to the underbelly.
CG756 Firecracker to the inside of the mouth.
CG983 Koi Pond to the main scaled parts of the body.
CG987 Tree Frog where the lower part of the fur connects to the body, going about halfway up the fur.
S2729 Citrus Splash to the top section of the fur, dragging down into the Tree Frog color to create a gradient.
Using the Detail Liner brush, apply three coats of Grape Divine to the eyes, removing any crystals.
Using the Detail Liner brush, apply two coats of s2101 Crystal Clear brushing to the eyes, teeth, and any other places that may not have been covered with the Jungle Gems or Foundations glazes.
Paint a section of the vase using 2 coats of SC016 Cotton tail (this is where the astronaut will be sketched).
While the glaze is still damp, lightly trace the astronaut shape (the tracing should leave an indent. If you press too hard and can see the bisque, fill in the area with Cotton Tail).
Paint bottom on vase using 3 coats of SC015 Tuxedo avoiding painting in the astronaut.
Paint top of vase using 3 coats SC104 Grape Expectations avoiding painting in the astronaut.
On the face shield of the astronaut helmet, outline the interior with a wide band of SC104 Grape Expectations with 2 coats. Using a clean brush and clean water blend the edge of the interior line so it fades into the middle of the face shield. The outline that touches the astronaut helmet will remain solid.
Paint the face shield with 2 coats of SC103 Lavendear. Paint over the darker purple, it will come through in the firing.
Add some pink SC100 Makin Me Blush patches on the face shield.
Using the same SC103 Lavendear and shade the helmet and suit.
Sketch on 2 rows of fluffly rounded top clouds on the vase using a marker or pencil.
The bottom row of clouds are 2 coats of SC103 Lavendear with a thin blended layer of paint blended at the bottom of the cloud.
The top row of clouds are 2 coats of SC100 Makin Me Blush with a thin blended layer of paint blended at the bottom of the cloud.
Outline astronaut using SC015 Tuxedo and a liner brush.
Add stars, dots and white highlight on the face shield, using a liner brush or designer bottle.
Paint inside of vase using 3 coats of SC103 Lavendear.
Dab one coat of CG1006 Purple Reign on the base of each row of clouds and a patch on face shield.
Tape off the divide between the tapered bottom and the top part of the vase.
Draw 3 horizontal, organic squiggle lines around the whole vase.
Draw vertical organic squiggle lines around the whole vase, space them farther out to make big squares, space them closer to make smaller squares (farther apart recommended).
Mark where you are going to paint what color. Sample uses SC102 Makin’ Me Blush and SC101 Spruce it up.
Paint 3 coats of each color in respective squares.
Using the dotting gyre or you can use the end of a paint brush or eraser, make 5 point dot flowers with SC102 Just Peachy.
After they dry, add a dot to the center of the flowers with SC024 Dandelion.
Remove the tape.
Paint 2-3 coats of CG1003 Peach around the bottom.
Add 3 coats of CG1003 Just Peachy or any color you want on the inside!.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Divide the tree sections, in groups of two. You will have a total of two sections of each color.
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SP274 Speckled Hot Tamale to the inside of the stars and the circles on the red stripe of the tree. Then using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan apply 3 coats of SP274 Speckled Hot Tamale to the stripe.
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SP212 Speckled Moody Blue to the inside of the stars and the circles on the blue stripe of the tree. Then using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan apply 3 coats SP212 Speckled Moody Blue to the stripe.
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of S2731 Kaboom liquid, no crystals to the inside of the stars and the circles on the red stripe of the tree. Then using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan apply 2 coats to the S2731 Kaboom to the stripe.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN001 White to the base area of the trees. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN001 White, apply 1 coat to the front of the plate.
Cut out the mushroom pattern. Wet the back and place in the center of the plate. Press around the edges with a damp sponge to make sure they stay down.
Using the Soft Fan with FN001 White, apply 1 coat over the edges of the mushroom pattern.
Using the Soft Fan with FN061 Ivory Specks, apply 3 coats to the front and back of the plate. Remove the pattern on the front of the plate before the glaze is completely dry.
Allow glaze to dry completely.
Using MC002 12mm Low Tack Masking Tape, apply a horizontal piece going across the front of the plate. This will separate the grass from the sky.
Using the Soft Fan with FN058 Green Apple, apply 3 coats to the bottom half of the plate. Do not glaze over the mushrooms. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Remove the tape before the glaze is bone dry.
Using MC001 12mm Low Tack Masking Tape, tape off the bottom half of the plate. Then tape off rays coming out from the mushrooms. Use MC001 6mm Low Tack Masking Tape to tape off smaller rays.
Using the Soft Fan with FN057 Periwinkle, apply 3 coats to the upper half of the plate. Do not glaze over the mushrooms. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Remove the tape before the glaze is bone dry.
Using the Script Liner with FN055 Bubblegum, apply 3 coats to the large mushroom cap. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with FN056 Heather, apply 3 coats to the small mushroom cap. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC006 Sunkissed, apply 3 coats to the small mushroom stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC097 Cant-elope, apply 3 coats to the large mushroom stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out 1 tsp SC001 Pink-A-Boo and 1 tsp SC013 Grapel onto the palette. Dip the eraser of the pencil into SC001 Pink-A-Boo and stamp the large mushroom cap. Repeat until it is covered in dots. Dip the eraser of the pencil into SC013 Grapel and stamp the small mushroom cap. Repeat until it is covered in dots.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Thin a small amount of FN057 Periwinkle with water to the consistency of coffee cream in a small cup. Pour the glaze into the vase then roll the glaze pouring it out slowly. Leave the vase upside down to drain till the shine is gone.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of FN001 White to the outside of the vase.
Cut out 2 copies of each pattern.
Position the pattern on the piece and attach by wetting the surface with water ten place the pattern, dab with a damp sponge. When all patterns are applied dab the area with a paper towel to help secure the pattern to the piece.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN057 Periwinkle to the outside side of the vase. Allow to dry!
Using a pencil and AC230 Clay Carbon Paper, trace the patterns onto the vase.
Outline each design using FD258 Black Licorice French Dimensions. Allow to dry!
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner apply 3 coats of SC013 Graple and SC074 Hot Tamale to alternating stripes in the middle and bottom of the pink & purple balloon.
Apply 2 puddled coats of CG1004 Berry Tart and CG1006 Purple Reign to every other stripe on the pink & purple balloon.
Balloon with squares, apply 2 puddled coats of CG1002 Day Lilly to the top of the balloon and every other square then CG1008 to the other squares.
Balloon with long stripes, apply 2 puddled coats of CG1003 Peach Party and CG1007 Blueberry Bubblegum to every other stripe on the balloon.
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner apply 3 coats of SC041 Brown Cow to the basket of all balloons.
Using a CB110 #10/0 Liner, detail the balloon baskets and add the strings with SC015 Tuxedo.
Using a sponge, dab some SC16 to create clouds in the background then apply SG302 Snowfall over top of it to give more dimension. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Thin a small amount of FN057 Periwinkle with water to the consistency of coffee cream in a small cup. Pour the glaze into the vase then roll the glaze pouring it out slowly. Leave the vase upside down to drain till the shine is gone.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of FN001 White to the outside of the vase.
Cut out 2 copies of each pattern.
Position the pattern on the piece and attach by wetting the surface with water ten place the pattern, dab with a damp sponge. When all patterns are applied dab the area with a paper towel to help secure the pattern to the piece.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN057 Periwinkle to the outside side of the vase. Allow to dry!
Using a pencil and AC230 Clay Carbon Paper, trace the patterns onto the vase.
Outline each design using FD258 Black Licorice French Dimensions. Allow to dry!
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner apply 3 coats of SC054 Vanila Dip.
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner apply 2 puddled coats of CG1006 Purple Reign and CG1004 Berry Tart to every other stripe on the pink & purple popsicle.
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner apply 2 puddled coats of CG1009 Chery Limeade and CG1007 Blueberry Bubblegum to every other stripe on the blue & Lime popsicle. Allow to dry!
Using a CB104 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 thin coat of SG702 Speckta-Clear Celebration over the FN047 Periwinkle glaze
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Thin a small amount of FN060 Mushroom with water to the consistency of coffee cream in a small cup. Pour the glaze into the vase then roll the glaze pouring it out slowly. Leave the vase upside down to drain till the shine is gone.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of FN001 White to the outside of the vase.
Cut out 2 copies of each pattern.
Position the pattern on the piece and attach by wetting the surface with water ten place the pattern, dab with a damp sponge. When all patterns are applied dab the area with a paper towel to help secure the pattern to the piece.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN059 Cashmere to the upper part of the outside side of the vase and FN057 Periwinkle to the lower half. Allow to dry!
Using a pencil and AC230 Clay Carbon Paper, trace the patterns onto the vase. Remove the patterns before the glaze dries.
Outline each design using FD258 Black Licorice French Dimensions. Allow to dry!
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner apply 2 puddled coats of CG1003 Beach Party to the starfish.
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner apply 2 puddled coats of CG1006 Purple Reign to one of the seashells and CG1005 Maroon Lagoon to the other seashell.
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner apply 2 puddled coats of CG1009 Chery Limeade to the main part of the shell of the turtle and CG1007 Blueberry Bubblegum to edge of the shell. Allow to dry!
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner apply 2 puddled coats of CG1008 Blue Guppy to the body of the turtle.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of the FN057 Periwinkle around the middle of the vase creating a wave effect followed by 1- 2 coats ofSC016 Cotton Tail then SG302 Snowfall. Allow to dry!
Using the Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of EG002 Speckled Buff Engobe to the center section and inside of the mug.
Using the Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of SW214 Micro Pearl to the inside, top and lower ribbed sections of the mug, plus the handle. Do not apply to the bottom or foot of the mug.
Mix a small amount of the Silkscreen Medium to the Black Designer Liner to the constancy of peanut butter.
Holding the silkscreen shiny side down in place, rub the Designer Liner mixture over the silkscreen, then carefully lift off the silkscreen.
Place the silkscreen into a container of water to make cleanup easier.
Place onto a well kiln washed shelf and fire to shelf cone 6.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with SC016 Cotton Tail, apply 3 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC097 Cant-elope, apply 3 coats to the beak. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC088 Tu Tu Tango, apply 3 coats to the comb and waddles. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil to draw a pupil at the top of the eyes.
Using the Detail Liner with SC015 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to each pupil. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC016 Cotton Tail, apply 1 dot to each pupil.
Squirt out around 1 Tbsp of SC055 Yella Bout It, SC-6 Sunkissed, and SC097 Cant-elope onto the palette.
Dip the Soft Fan into SC055 Yella Bout It and glaze the inner 1/3 of the tail. While the glaze is still wet, dip the same brush into SC006 Sunkissed and blend out to the middle 1/3 of the tail. Dip the same brush into SC097 Cant-elope and blend out to the tip of the tail. Repeat 2 times for a total of 3 coats. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Repeat Step #9 for each wing. Do not glaze the upper portion of the wing.
Using the Script Liner with SC011 Blue Yonder, apply 3 coats to the upper portion of each wing.
Using the Script Liner and Soft Fan with CG1007 Blueberry Bubblegum, apply 2 coats to the rest of the rooster. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Ethyl Hen:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with SC016 Cotton Tail, apply 3 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC097 Cant-elope, apply 3 coats to the beak. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-88 Tu Tu Tango, apply 3 coats to the comb and waddles. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil to draw a pupil at the top of the eyes.
Using the Detail Liner with SC015 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to each pupil. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC016 Cotton Tail, apply 1 dot to each pupil.
Squirt out around 1 Tbsp of SC078 Lime Light, SC007 Leapin’ Lizard, and SC011 Blue Yonder onto the palette.
Dip the Soft Fan into SC078 Lime Light and glaze the inner 1/3 of the tail. While the glaze is still wet, dip the same brush into SC007 Leapin’ Lizard and blend out to the middle 1/3 of the tail. Dip the same brush into SC011 Blue Yonder and blend out to the tip of the tail. Repeat 2 times for a total of 3 coats. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Repeat Step #9 for each wing. Do not glaze the upper portion of the wing.
Using the Script Liner with SC077 Glo-Worm, apply 3 coats to the upper portion of each wing.
Using the Script Liner and Soft Fan with CG1009 Cherry Limeade, apply 2 coats to the rest of the hen. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with SC016 Cotton Tail, apply 3 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC075 Orange-A-Peel, apply 3 coats to the beak. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC074 Hot Tamale, apply 3 coats to the comb and waddles. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil to draw a pupil at the bottom of the eyes.
Using the Detail Liner with SC015 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to each pupil. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC016 Cotton Tail, apply 1 dot to each pupil.
Draw a scalloped line going around the rooster’s neck.
Using FD254 Black Licorice, trace over the line going around the neck. Outline each feather on the tail and wings.
Using the Script Liner with SC006 Sunkissed, apply 3 coats to the center section on each wing. Apply 3 coats to the center section of the tail. Skip 2 sections and glaze the 3rd section down from the top on both sides of the tail. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC075 Orange-A-Peel, apply 3 coats to the section right next to the previously glazed sections on the wings and tail. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC074 Hot Tamale, apply 3 coats to the remaining sections of the wings and tail. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with CG970 Masquerade, apply 2 coats to the head and neck of the rooster (area above the neckline). Apply 2 coats to the upper section of each wing. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner and Soft Fan with CG977 Ink Spots, apply 2 coats to the rest of the rooster. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Ethyl Hen:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with SC016 Cotton Tail, apply 3 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC075 Orange-A-Peel, apply 3 coats to the beak. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC074 Hot Tamale, apply 3 coats to the comb and waddles. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil to draw a pupil at the bottom of the eyes.
Using the Detail Liner with SC015 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to each pupil. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC016 Cotton Tail, apply 1 dot to each pupil.
Using FD254 Black Licorice, outline each feather on the tail and wings.
Using the Script Liner with SC006 Sunkissed, apply 3 coats to the center section on each wing. Apply 3 coats to the center section of the tail. Skip 2 sections and glaze the 3rd section down from the top on both sides of the tail. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC075 Orange-A-Peel, apply 3 coats to the section right next to the previously glazed sections on the wings and tail. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC074 Hot Tamale, apply 3 coats to the remaining sections of the wings and tail. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner and Soft Fan with CG970 Masquerade, apply 2 coats to the rest of the hen. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with EL125 Saharah Sands, apply 2 coats to the stem and underside of the cap. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL208 Moss Creek, apply 2 coats to the top of the cap. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with PC601 Clear Cascade, apply 1 coat in the ridges on the top of the cap.
Using the Soft Fan with EL101 Oyster Shell, apply 2 coats to the top of the cap. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Ribbed Mushroom:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with EL125 Saharah Sands, apply 2 coats to the stem and underside of the cap. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL118 Blue Grotto, apply 2 coats to the top of the cap. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with PC601 Clear Cascade, apply 1 coat in the ridges on the top of the cap.
Using the Soft Fan with EL101 Oyster Shell, apply 2 coats to the top cap. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Dotted Mushroom:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with EL125 Saharah Sands, apply 2 coats to the stem and underside of the cap (do not glaze to ruffle on the upper part of the stem). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the script Liner with EL131 Turtle Shell, apply 2 coats to the top of the cap. Try to avoid the dots. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with PC601 Clear Cascade, apply 1 coat to the indentations on the top of the cap.
Using the Script Liner with EL101 Oyster Shell, apply 2 coats to the top of the cap. Try to avoid the dots. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with EL143 Cactus Flower, apply 2 coats to each dot on the cap. Apply 2 coats to the ruffle on the upper part of the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Transfer the pattern to the ware using a pencil and Clay Carbon (trim pattern with scissors if necessary).
Wipe ware with a dampened sponge.
Place My Blue Heaven and Peri-Twinkle on palette and thin to a light creamy consistency. With the fan glaze pull in a horizontal stroke to sky with both colors in your brush. Color should be transparent and light in application.
Load the #10 Flat Shader with My Blue Heaven, half load with Blue Yonder and corner load with Blue Isle, and blend lightly on brush. Pull in rolling wave motion by staring on the flat of the brush and lift off in a curling motion. Complete for each wave.
Script Liner load with Midnight Blue and accent each wave with a pressed line.
Sand is pulled in with Shader loaded with Vanilla Dip and side load with Tiger Tail and blend. Keep Tiger Tail to top of sand mounds.
With smaller Shader, pull in leaves to flowers working from base to tip loaded with Lettuce Alone and side load with Leapin’ Lizard, keeping darker color to outer edge of leaf.
For tree bark, load smaller Shader with Poo Bear and side load with Cracker Jack Brown. Keep darker color to each bark section and add rings to the palm tree trunk.
With Shader load with Sour Apple and side load with Army Surplus. Pull in frons to palm tree keeping darker color toward top of each segment.
Flower petals are the Shader loaded with Pink a Boo and side loaded with Rosey Posey, again keep darker color to outer edge of flower petal.
The flower centers and sun are shader loaded with Sunkissed and side loaded with Orange Ya Happy. Keep the Orange to outer edges of flower centers and to the left side of the Sun.
Create a Sun reflection in water with a wash of Sunkissed below sun. Also radiate reflection into sky by dry brushing uneven streaks of both colors from Sun edge working outward into sky a little.
Detail sand with the Script Liner and Brick. The remaining design areas are detailed with Cobalt Jet Black.
Apply 3 coats of Bluebeard to the back of plate and trim edge of plate as well.
When dry, apply one coat to back and 2 coats to front of Pure Brilliance using the Fan Glaze.
Thin SW503 Orange Gloss with water to a cream consistency in a plastic cup to roll inside of the latte cup.
Pour thinned glaze inside of cup and roll around to cover. Pour out any remaining glaze.
Place SW503 Orange Glass and SW504 Red Gloss on the palette.
Starting at the top of the cup load the glaze brush with Orange Glaze and apply about one third of the way down including handle.
Half load the glaze brush with the Orange Gloss and the other half with Red Gloss and apply to the middle third of the cup blending into the Orange at the top third.
Finally load the glaze brush with Red Gloss and apply to bottom third of cup blending into the middle third of cup.
Repeat steps 5-7 until you have applied three coats.
If you get any glaze on the very bottom of the cup remove it with a dampened sponge so glaze when not stick to shelf during firing.
When dry, transfer the pattern to the cup with clay carbon and pencil. Trim the pattern with scissors for easier application.
Apply 1 coat of EZ012 Cobalt Jet Black to pattern using the Shader and Round brushes.
When dry place on the kiln shelf and fire to a cone 6.
Tip:
Make sure EZ Stroke is thinned properly to a light cream consistency before application. If over applied when doing a majolica technique EZ Stroke can bubble.
Place inverted pie tin on newspaper and using pencil trace outline of tin.
Using a ruler and pencil measure ½” beyond the tracing line all around the tracing to allow for slope of the side wall of the tin.
Use scissors to cut out the template.
Place clay on another piece of newspaper and with the rolling pin, roll out clay to ¼” thickness making sure the template fits the rolled clay.
Place the template on clay and cut out the clay circle.
Place a paper towel over the edge of circle and gently rub edge of circle with finger to smooth edge. Turn clay circle over and repeat on other side edge.
Using lace or various stamps decorate the top side of the clay circle as desired. A pine tree rolling stamp was used for the edge on the sample.
You can also use the sgraffito tool to carve in a design of your own as was done with the mountains and the pine trees in the center.
Cover the outside of the pie tin with a piece of plastic so the clay will not stick to the pan. You can either use the inside of the pan for a deeper bowl or over the back side of the tin, as done here for a larger bowl.
Place the printed clay circle onto the plastic covered pie tin and form onto pan.
You may prefer to leave the edges flat or slightly ruffle.
Place 3-4 holes about ½” in from edge for string for hanging.
When clay is dry bisque fire to shelf cone 04.
Thin EZ024 Royal Blue Green to a wash consistency with water and apply with the glaze brush over the entire front and back of the piece.
Wipe with a dampened sponge to bring up the details.
Apply a coat of EZ010 French Brown to the pine tree trunks followed by a coat of EZ047 Thundercloud Grey to mountains using the round brush.
When the color is dry apply 2 coats of Pure Brilliance with the Fan Glaze to the entire piece.
When glaze is dry, stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.
Cut lengths of jute roping for hanging. Place string through holes and knot on underside of bird bath. Pull lengths of rope evenly and tie to hanger.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, basecoat the puppy with OS472 Walnut. Allow to Dry!
Using a DB803 #8 Round, drybrush the puppy with OS599 Medium Taupe, then OS467 Light Brown. Highlight the feet, chest, muzzle, tip of tail and edges of the ears with OS432 Ivory then OS431 White.
Using an AB704#3, drybrush the dog’s tongue with OS597 Rich Peach then highlight with some OS431 White in the brush.
Using an AB704#3, drybrush the puppy’s nose and the pads of its feet with OS476 Black then pick up some OS431 White in the brush and highlight.
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, basecoat the hat with OS487 Olive Moss. Allow it to Dry!
Using a DB803 #8 Round, drybrush the hat with OS466 Avocado, then highlight with OS466 Avocado with some OS431 White in the brush.
With a pencil. trace or sketch small dog bones on the hat.
Using an AB706 #2 Filbert, paint the dog bones with SS194 Medium Taupe.
Using an AB702 #10/0 Liner or a AB701 #0 Detail, outline the dog bones with OS476 Black.
Using a AB709 3/8 Angled Shader, Shade the deep crevices of the puppy body with OS472 Walnut. Allow to dry!
Using an AB710 #3/4 Shader, apply 2 coats of AC-502 Matte Brush-on-Sealer to the piece. Allow to dry between each coat.
Using an AB704 #3 Round, apply 2 coats of AC-501 Gloss Brush-on-Sealer to the nose tongue, pads of the feet. Allow to dry between each coat!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, basecoat the kitten with OS476 Black. Allow to Dry!
Using a DB803 #8 Round, drybrush the kitten with OS475 Charcoal then OS567 Ash. Highlight the feet, chest, muzzle, tip of tail and edges of the ears with OS474 Grey then OS431 White.
Using an AB704#3, drybrush the kitten’s nose, inside the ears and the pads of its feet with OS597 Rich Peach then pick up some OS431 White in the brush and highlight.
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, basecoat the hat with OS541 Northern Blue. Allow it to Dry!
Using a DB803 #8 Round, drybrush the hat with OS459 Bright Blue. Highlight with OS457 Medium Blue with some OS431 White in the brush to lighten then OS431 White. Allow to dry!
Using a AB709 3/8 Angular Shader, shade the deep crevices of the kitten with OS476 Black.
With a pencil. trace or sketch small fish bones on the hat.
Using an AB701 #0 Detail and a AB702 #10/) Liner, paint the fish bones with OS459 Bright Blue then add a dot of SS138 Flat Black for the eye. Allow to dry!
Using an AB710 #3/4 Shader, apply 2 coats of AC-502 Matte Brush-on-Sealer to the piece. Allow to dry between each coat.
Using an AB704 #3 Round, apply 2 coats of AC-501 Gloss Brush-on-Sealer to the nose tongue, pads of the feet. Allow to dry between each coat!
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with SC075 Orange-A-Peel, apply 1 coat to the body of the kitten. Allow glaze to dry. Using a damp sponge, wipe off most of the glaze, leaving it only in the crevices.
Using the Script Liner with SC024 Dandelion, apply 1 coat to the body of the kitten. Use SC016 Cotton Tail on the muzzle, chest, and paws. Blend into the surrounding areas with SC-24 Dandelion. Allow glaze to dry. Repeat for a second coat.
Using the Script Liner with SC001 Pink-A-Boo, apply 3 coats to the nose, feet pads, and ears. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squirt out around 1 Tbsp of SP275 Speckled Orange-A-Peel and SP288 Speckled Tu Tu Tango onto the palette. Using the Soft Fan/Script Liner with SP288 Speckled Tu Tu Tango, apply 1 coat to the bottom half of the hat. Dip the same brush into SP275 Speckled Orange-A-Peel and blend up to the top of the hat. Allow glaze to dry. Repeat for a total of 3 coats.
Dip into NTCLR Clear One Dipping.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Puppy:
1. Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
2. Using the Soft Fan with SC034 Down To Earth, apply 1 coat to the body of the puppy. Allow glaze to dry. Using a damp sponge, wipe off most of the glaze, leaving it only in the crevices.
3. Using the Script Liner with SC025 Crackerjack Brown, apply 1 coat to the body of the puppy. Use SC016 Cotton Tail on the muzzle, chest, and paws. Use SC034 Down to Earth on the tips of the ears. Blend into the surrounding areas with SC025 Crackerjack Brown. Allow glaze to dry. Repeat for a second coat.
4. Using the Script Liner with SC001 Pink-A-Boo, apply 3 coats to the tongue. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
5. Using the Script Liner with SC034 Down To Earth, apply 3 coats to the nose and foot pads. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
6. Squirt out around 1 Tbsp of SP209 Speckled Jaded and SP210 Speckled Teal Next Time onto the palette. Using the Soft Fan/Script Liner with SP210 Speckled Teal Next Time, apply 1 coat to the bottom half of the hat. Dip the same brush into SP209 Speckled Jaded and blend up to the top of the hat. Allow glaze to dry. Repeat for a total of 3 coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
There are 2 ways to transfer the pattern to the plate:
Place the tissue paper over the pattern. Trace with the pencil. Cut out the pattern you traced on the tissue paper. Only cut along the dotted lines. Place the tissue paper pattern over the plate. Trace the design with the permanent marker.
Cut out the shapes in the original pattern. Then place them on the plate and trace around them with the pencil.
Squeeze out around 1 TBS of the following glazes onto the palette: SC-11 Blue Yonder, SC-12 Moody Blue, SC-24 Dandelion, and SC-74 Hot Tamale.
To make the green glaze, squeeze out 2 parts SC-24 Dandelion and 1 part SC-11 Blue Yonder. Mix thoroughly.
Using the Script Liner with the glazes from Step #3 & #4, apply 2 coats to each section on the plate. Refer to the patterns for color placement. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil eraser to make decorative dots on your pattern. You can use any of the colors on your palette.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline your pattern. Add decorative lines. Use the Soft Fan to apply 2 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-702 Celebration, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the pencil to draw a jagged line going around the base of the neck. This will separate the top and bottom colors on the hen.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-118 Blue Grotto, apply 2 coats to the bottom half of the hen. Make random, irregular strokes around the neckline, so that there won’t be a distinct border between the top and bottom.
Using the Soft Fan with S-2702 Northern Lights, apply 1 coat to the top half of the hen. Avoid the eyes, beak, comb, and waddles. Overlap the glaze on the bottom half by around 1 inch. Make random, irregular strokes around the neckline, so that there won’t be a distinct border between the top and bottom.
Pour out around 2 TBS of EL-101 Oyster Shell onto the palette (don’t use the glaze from the jar because you might pick up some crystals from Step #4 while applying this glaze). Use the Soft Fan to apply 2 coats over the top half of the hen. Avoid the eyes, beak, comb, and waddles. Overlap the glaze on the bottom half by around 1 inch. Make random, irregular strokes around the neckline, so that there won’t be a distinct border between the top and bottom. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use an X-ACTO knife or damp sponge to remove any glaze from the eyes, beak, waddles, and comb.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with EL-143 Cactus Flower, apply 2 coats to the beak. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with EL-127 Rose Granite, apply 2 coats to the comb and waddles. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out around 1 tsp of SC-15 Tuxedo onto the palette. Dip the pencil eraser into the glaze and stamp a pupil on one eye. Repeat for the other eye.
Cut out a small square of cardboard. Around 1.5” on each side. You will be using the side with only straight lines (not the corrugated side).
Pour out around 1 TBS of EL-101 Oyster Shell, EL-118 Blue Grotto, PC-601 Clear Cascade, and PC-602 White Cascade onto the palette.
Take your piece of cardboard and dip one of the edges with straight lines into PC-602 White Cascade. Stamp around the neck of the hen, where the 2 glazes overlap. Continue dipping and stamping until you go completely around the neck.
Repeat Step #12 with EL-118 Blue Grotto. Make sure to stamp over some of the glaze from Step #12.
Repeat Step #12 with EL-101 Oyster Shell. Make sure to stamp over some of the glaze from Step #12 and Step #13.
Repeat Step #12 with PC-601 Clear Cascade. Make sure to stamp over some of the glaze from Step #12, #13, and #14.
Roll a variety of clay balls from 3/4ths of the clay. Each ball should be about half an inch to one inch in diameter.
Pinch or roll one side of each ball into a cone shape to create clay teardrop shapes.
Press your thumb into the thick part of the tear drop and drag out to the tip to create an indent and slight bend in the teardrop shape.
Repeat step 4 on all your balls of clay.
For the base of the succulent, roll the remaining 1/4th of clay into a ball and press flat.
Scratch and attach the largest of the indented teardrop shapes to the outside of your base circle.
Smooth the clay from each attached teardrop into the base clay.
After your outside ring of teardrops have been attached, begin with the next row repeating steps 7 and 8.
Continue working your way around the base circle, attaching the next smallest teardrop until you hit the center of the base, attaching your smallest piece there. 11. Allow the clay to fully dry. 12. Bisque fire to cone 04.
Begin with a properly bisque fired clay piece. 2. Clean with a damp sponge if needed.
Using a fan brush, apply three coats of EL 131 to the whole piece, allowing each coat to dry in between the next.
Use a detail liner brush to help poke glaze down in the tight to reach places in the succulent.
Drag a damp sponge across the top of the succulent, wiping the glaze off the tips of the “leaves” as you go.
Using a script liner brush, apply three coats of EL127 to the wiped off tips of the succulent, allowing your colors to overlap.
Base coat the whole tile face with a fan brush and SC097.
Allow to dry.
Using a script liner brush, apply one coat of randomized squiggles of SC15 to the face of the tile.
Using the detail liner brush, line the outside edges of the black squiggles where they meet the orange background with SC073.
Apply a second coat of SC15 over the black squiggles with the script liner brush.
Using the detail liner brush, apply a line of SC006 to the very insides of the orange areas as a highlight.
With the script liner brush, apply one thick coat of SG201 Black Cobblestone over top of the black squiggle areas, overlapping slightly onto the red and yellow areas.
Once the first coat of cobblestone loses its shine, apply a second coat in random areas to vary the thickness of the cobblestone cracks during firing.
Add randomized drops of cobblestone onto the orange areas.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Thin a small amount of FN009 Black with water to the consistency of coffee cream in a small cup. Pour the glaze into the vase then roll the glaze pouring it out slowly. Leave the vase upside down to drain till the shine is gone.
Using a pencil and AC230 Clay Carbon Paper, trace the fish patterns onto the vase. Large fish on the bottom and the smaller fish on the top.
Apply the colors to the large fish as follows: White head with green dots – 3 coats of SC027 Sour Apple to the top side of the fish; 3 coat of SC006 Sunkissed to the lower part of the fish; dots of SG409 Bright Green th the head of the fish. Apply 3 coats of SG202 Whit Cobblestone to the SC027 Sour Apple area; Apply 1 coat of SG703 Speckta-Clear Autumn to the SC006 area of the fish and 3 coats of CC101 Transparent Crackel to the head and tail of the fish. Orange Head – 3 coats of SC024 Dandelion to the top of the fish; Lines of SG410 Bright Blue to the bottom of the fish; SC097 Cat-elope to the head with dots od SG408 Orange; 1 coat of SG703 Speckta-Clear Celebration over the SC024 Dandelion; 3 coats of CC108 China Sea over the bottom section of the fish; 3 coats of CC101 Transparent to the tail.
Apply the colors to the small fish as follows: Green head – SC027 Sour Apple to the head of the fish; 3 coats of SC011 Blue Yonder to the top of the fish; stripes of SG408 Orange to the bottom of the fish; apply wavey lines over the SC011 Blue Yonder; 3 coats of CC107 Green Tea on the top of the fish; 3 coats of CC101 Transparent to the tail. Red Head – 3 coats of SC073 Candy Apple Red to the head; 3 coats of SC097 Cant-elope to the bottom of the fish; 3 coats of SG302 Snowfall to the top of the fish; apply 3 coats of SG201 Black Cobblestone over the SC097 Cant-elope; apply 1 coat of SC007 Leapin Lizard followed by dots of SG302 Snowfall; 3coats of CC101 Transparent to the tail.
Using Low Tack Masking Tape, apply the tape along the bottom of the vase about 1.75 inch.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN001 to the vase above the tape line around the fish. Remove the tape after the last coat. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SC011 Blue Yonder to the bottom section of the vase. Allow to dry!
Apply a dot of SC016 Cotton Tail to all the eyes followed by a dot of SC015 Tuxedo to the center of the white dot.
Using FD258 Black Licorice French Dimensions outlining the fish.
Using FD254 Pure White, create wave on the blue area at the bottom and a linne where the blue touches the white.
Stilt and fire to cone 06/05.
Use some thinned SS138 Flat Black Softees Acrylic to antique all the Crackle glaze areas.
Squirt a layer of shaving cream into the cookie sheet.
Smooth out the shaving cream with a plastic card.
Using a fan brush, glaze two coats of SC103 to the whole face of a properly fired 6×6 bisque tile.
Set tile aside.
Squirt lines of alternating stroke and coat colors onto the prepared shaving cream.
Drag a toothpick through the glaze in the opposite direction of the squirted glaze lines. Alternatively, create random swirls with the toothpick through the shaving cream for a less uniform pattern.
Flip the tile face down onto the shaving cream and glaze.
Let the tile sit for a few seconds.
Remove the tile from the shaving cream.
Turn on the water faucet to a constant thin continuous stream. (NOT full blast)
Gently run the water over the face of the tile to remove most of the shaving cream.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, basecoat the bunny with OS467 Light Brown. Allow to Dry!
Using a DB803 #8 Round, drybrush the puppy with SS045 Buttermilk, then SS135 White. Highlight the feet, chest, muzzle, tip of tail and edges of the ears with an extra coat of SS135 White.
Using an AB704#3, drybrush the bunny nose & inside the ears with SS183 Rich Peach then highlight with some SS135 White in the brush.
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, basecoat the hat with OS488 Christmas Green. Allow it to Dry!
Using a DB803 #8 Round, drybrush the hat with SS019 Country Sage, then highlight with SS376 Limeburst then with some SS135 White in the brush.
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader and a AB704 #3 Round, basecoat the jeans with OS565 Blue Jean Blue.
Using a DB803 #8 Round and a DB802 #5 Round, drybrush the jeans with SS331 Medium Blue then SS331 Medium Blue with some SS135 White in the brush, highlight with SS135 White.
Using a AB704 #3 Round, basecoat the large carrot with SS024 Chocolate Fudge.
Using a DB803 #3 Round, drybrush the carrot with SS399 Terra Cotta then SS210 Orange, highlight with some SS111 Brightest Yellow
Using an AB709 Angular Shader, shade the deep crevices of the bunny body with OS467 Light Brown. Shade the jeans with OS565 Blue Jean Blue and the hat with SS057 Accent Green.
Using an AB701 Detail, apply MM102 Copper Metallic to the jean’s buttons and SS399 Terra Cotta to the stiches.
Using an AB AB704 #3 Round, basecoat the top of the large carrot with SS57 Accent Green.
Using a DB803 #3 Round, drybrush the top of the large carrot with SS019 Country Sage and highlight with SS111 Brightest Yellow.
Using an AB AB704 #3 Round, paint carrots on the hat with SS399 Terra Cotta. Highlight with SS210 Orange and SS111 Brightest Yellow.
Using an AB702 #10/0 Liner, Paint the carrot tops with SS057 Accent Green and SS019 Country Sage. Outline the carrot with OS476 Black
Using various colors, paint patches on the jean’s
Using an AB710 #3/4 Shader, apply 2 coats of AC-502 Matte Brush-on-Sealer to the piece. Allow to dry between each coat.
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, apply 1 coat of SS112 White metallic to the jeans and 1 coat of SS113 White Iridescent to the hat.
Using an AB704 #3 Round, apply 2 coats of AC-501 Gloss Brush-on-Sealer to the nose and buttons. Allow to dry between each coat!
DO NOT FIRE!!
Form
MB1598 Bunny Gnome
Colors
SS019 Country Sage
SS024 Chocolate Fudge
SS045 Buttermilk
SS057 Accent Green
SS111 Brightest Yellow
SS112 White Metallic
SS113 White Iridescent
SS135 White
SS183 Rich Peach
SS210 Orange
SS331 Medium Blue
SS376 Limeburst
SS399 Terra Cotta
OS476 Black
OS467 Light Brown
OS488 Christmas Green
OS565 Blue Jean Blue
MM102 Copper Metallic
AC501 Gloss Brush on Sealer
AC502 Matte Brush on Sealer
Decorating Accessories
AB701 #0 Detail
AB702 #10/0 Liner
AB704 #3 Round
AB708 #10 Shader
AB709 3/8 Angular Shader
AB710 ¾ Flat Shader
DB801 #3 Round
DB802 #5 Round
DB803 #8 Round
DB804 #3 Flat
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sponge
Water
Foam Plates or Aluminum Foil for Palette
Paper Towels
Non-Fired|Earthenware Bisque|Home Décor|Holiday
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48855
Mother’s Day Granny Square Plates and Wine Tumbler
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN239 Spiced Cream, apply 3 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN239 Spiced Cream, apply 3 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Cut out the granny square pattern.
After the glaze is dry to the touch, place the pattern in the center of the plate. Lightly trace with the pencil. You should be able to faintly see the pattern in the glaze. Do not press hard enough to go down to the bisque.
Move the pattern around the plate and trace. The squares should be lined up like the squares on a granny square blanket.
Take the three AC220 Bottles and fill them with SC027 Sour Apple, SC095 Pinkie Swear, and SC097 Cant-elope. Label the outside of the bottles with the permanent marker. Screw the tip onto each bottle.
Use the bottle filled with SC097 Cant-elope to outline the inner 4 ovals on each square. Make 1 line going down the center of each oval.
Use the bottle filled with SC095 Pinkie Swear to outline the middle 8 ovals on each square. Make 2 lines going down the center of each oval.
Use the bottle filled with SC027 Sour Apple to outline the outer 12 triangles. Make 3-4 lines going down the center of each triangle. Make a dot between each triangle on the outer edge.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Salad Plate:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN239 Spiced Cream, apply 3 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN239 Spiced Cream, apply 3 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Cut out the granny square pattern.
After the glaze is dry to the touch, place the pattern in the center of the plate. Lightly trace with the pencil. You should be able to faintly see the pattern in the glaze. Do not press hard enough to go down to the bisque.
Move the pattern around the plate and trace. The squares should be lined up like the squares on a granny square blanket.
Take the three AC220 Bottles and fill them with SC027 Sour Apple, SC095 Pinkie Swear, and SC097 Cant-elope. Label the outside of the bottles with the permanent marker. Screw the tip onto each bottle.
Use the bottle filled with SC095 Pinkie Swear to outline the inner 4 ovals on each square. Make 1 line going down the center of each oval.
Use the bottle filled with SC027 Sour Apple to outline the middle 8 ovals on each square. Make 2 lines going down the center of each oval.
Use the bottle filled with SC097 Cant-elope to outline the outer 12 triangles. Make 3-4 lines going down the center of each triangle. Make a dot between each triangle on the outer edge.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Wine Tumbler
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN239 Spiced Cream, apply 3 coats to the outside of the tumbler. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Cut out the text and the flower from the pattern.
After the glaze is dry to the touch, place the “Mom” pattern at the top of the tumbler. Lightly trace with the pencil. You should be able to faintly see the pattern in the glaze. Do not press hard enough to go down to the bisque.
Take the flower pattern and place it directly below the “Mom”. Trace lightly with the pencil. Repeat on either side of the middle flower, only slightly higher on the tumbler. Make sure both sides are symmetrical.
Take the three AC-220 Bottles and fill them with SC027 Sour Apple, SC095 Pinkie Swear, and SC097 Cant-elope. Label the outside of the bottles with the permanent marker. Screw the tip onto each bottle.
Use the bottle filled with SC095 Pinkie Swear to outline the “Mom” and make a dot in the center of each flower.
Use the bottle filled with SC097 Cant-elope to outline the flower petals. Make 2 lines going down the center of each oval.
Use the bottle filled with SC027 Sour Apple to outline the stems and leaves. Make 2 lines going down the center of each leaf.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN239 Spiced Cream, apply 3 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN239 Spiced Cream, apply 3 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
After the glaze is dry to the touch, place the pattern over the front of the plate. Lightly trace with the pencil. You should be able to faintly see the pattern in the glaze. Do not press hard enough to go down to the bisque.
Take the three AC-20 Bottles and fill them with SC035 Gray Hare, SC060 Silver Lining, and SC099 Char-ming. Label the outside of the bottles with the permanent marker. Screw the tip onto each bottle.
Use the bottle filled with SC035 Gray Hare to outline the mustaches labeled 1. Draw 2 wavy lines going down the inside of those mustaches.
Use the bottle filled with SC060 Silver Lining to outline the mustaches labeled 2.
Use the bottle filled with SC099 Char-ming to outline the mustaches labeled 3. Add dots to the inside of those mustaches.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Salad Plate:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-239 Spiced Cream, apply 3 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-239 Spiced Cream, apply 3 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
After the glaze is dry to the touch, place the pattern over the front of the plate. Lightly trace with the pencil. You should be able to faintly see the pattern in the glaze. Do not press hard enough to go down to the bisque.
Take the three AC-220 Bottles and fill them with SC-35 Gray Hare, SC-60 Silver Lining, and SC-99 Char-ming. Label the outside of the bottles with the permanent marker. Screw the tip onto each bottle.
Use the bottle filled with SC-99 Char-ming to outline “dad”.
Use the bottle filled with SC-35 Gray Hare to outline the mustache.
Use the bottle filled with SC-60 Silver Lining to make dots going around the edge of the plate.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use FD254 Black to outline all the facets. Allow glaze to dry.
Using the Script Liner with CG981 Fruity Freckles, apply 2 coats to one of the facets on the top row of the cap. Skip 3 facets. Apply 2 coats to the next facet. They should be directly across from each other. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with CG1002 Day Lily, apply 2 coats to the two facets on the top row of the cap that do not touch the facets glazed in Step #3. They should be directly across from each other. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with CG981 Fruity Freckles, apply 1 coat to the remaining facets on the top of the cap. Allow glaze to dry. Using the Script Liner with CG1002 Day Lily, apply 1 coat over those facets. This will create a new color.
Repeat Steps #3-5 for the second row of facets.
Using the Script Liner with FN232 Sun Yellow, apply 3 coats to the small diamond facets on the top of the cap, the center faceted on the very top of the cap, and the large, upper facets on the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with FN207 Orange Slice, apply 3 coats to the border of facets going around the top of the cap, and the bottom of the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with FN230 Poppy, apply 3 coats to the underside of the cap. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and Fire to cone 06.
Small:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use FD254 Black to outline all the facets. Allow glaze to dry.
Using the Script Liner with CG962 Blue Azure, apply 2 coats to one of the facets on the top row of the cap. Skip 3 facets. Apply 2 coats to the next facet. They should be directly across from each other. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with CG1008 Blue Guppy, apply 2 coats to the two facets on the top row of the cap that do not touch the facets glazed in Step #3. They should be directly across from each other. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with CG962 Blue Azure, apply 1 coat to the remaining facets on the top of the cap. Allow glaze to dry. Using the Script Liner with CG1008 Blue Guppy, apply 1 coat over those facets. This will create a new color.
Repeat Steps #3-5 for the second row of facets.
Using the Script Liner with FN214 Pastel Jade, apply 3 coats to the border of facets going around the top of the cap, and the bottom of the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with FN231 Clearly Jade, apply 3 coats to the underside of the cap. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Take the AC220 1oz Bottles and fill them ¾ full with SC003 Wine About It, SC020 Cashew Later, and SC095 Pinkie Swear. Fill them the rest of the way with water. Screw the tips on and shake.
Using the Soft Fan with FN001 White, apply 1 coat to the top of the cap. While the glaze is still wet, generously squirt the top of the cap with the bottles from Step #2. Rotate the mushroom to help the glaze marbleize. Once the top of the cap is covered, place it upright to dry. It is helpful to do this over a paper plate.
Use a damp sponge to remove any glaze that dripped down to the underside of the cap.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 3 coats to the large sections of the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-20 Cashew Later, apply 3 coats to the underside of the cap. Use the Script Liner to apply 3 coats to the bottom edge of the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-3 Wine About It, apply 3 coats to the small diamonds on the cap. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
After the glaze is bone dry, use SG-401 Black to outline the facets.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour out around 1 Tbsp of CG753 Sassy Orange and CG756 Firecracker onto the palette. Using the Soft Fan with CG756 Firecracker, apply 1 coat to the lower half of the top of the cap. Dip the same brush into CG753 Sassy Orange and blend up to the top of the cap. After the glaze is dry, repeat for a second coat.
Using the Script Liner with SC075 Orange-A-Peel, apply 3 coats to the underside of the cap. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC087 Ruby Slippers, apply 3 coats going around the bottom lip of the cap. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Squeeze out around 1 tsp onto the palette. Dip the sponge into the glaze and sponge around the bottom edge of the cap.
Using the Soft Fan with SP216 Speckled Cotton Tail, apply 3 coats to the stem.
Stilt and Fire to cone 06.
Ribbed Mushroom:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour out around 1 Tbsp of CG987 Tree Frog and CG1009 Cherry Limeade onto the palette. Using the Soft Fan with CG987 Tree Frog, apply 1 coat to the lower half of the top of the cap. Dip the same brush into CG1009 Cherry Limeade and blend up to the top of the cap. After the glaze is dry, repeat for a second coat.
Using the Script Liner with SC075 Orange-A-Peel, apply 3 coats to the underside of the cap. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out around 1 tsp of SC026 Green Thumb onto the palette. Dip the sponge into the glaze and sponge around the bottom edge of the cap.
Using the Soft Fan with SP216 Speckled Cotton Tail, apply 3 coats to the stem.
Stilt and Fire to cone 06.
Dotted Mushroom:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with SC077 Glo-Worm, apply 3 coats to the dots on the top of the cap and the underside of the cap. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC075 Orange-A-Peel, apply 3 coats to the ruffle on the top of the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with CG1007 Blueberry Bubblegum, apply 2 coats to the top of the cap. Do not glaze over the dots. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC076 Cara-bein Blue, apply 3 coats going around the bottom lip of the cap. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Squeeze out around 1 tsp onto the palette. Dip the sponge into the glaze and sponge around the bottom edge of the cap.
Using the Script Liner with SP216 Speckled Cotton Tail, apply 3 coats to the rest of the stem.
Check the ware over for blemishes and if present sand gently with 100-grit sandpaper to remove. Proceed to damp sponge ware to remove any fired dust and to condition the piece for decorating.
Place about 1½ ounces of Kings Blue into a paper cup. If the color is extremely thick, thin with a few drops of water. Mix with a palette knife.
Using the Soft Fan, apply three flowing coats of the Kings Blue over the entire piece, inside and out. However, do not apply color to the bottom of the piece. Allow the underglaze to dry thoroughly.
Cut out the pattern for ease of use.
Using the pattern, the White Saral and red pen, trace the pattern onto the ware. The Saral will burn away during firing. (Note: if the Saral still appears after the first firing it will disappear during the mid-range firing.)
With the #4 and #8 Pointed Round, careful apply three coats of the China White to all of the leaves. The China White is opaque and will block out the underneath color of Kings Blue. Be sure each coat of the China White is dry before proceeding onto the next coat.
Place the following EZ-Strokes on the palette: Yellow Orange, Irish Green, Leaf Green and Ivy Green. If extremely thick add a few drops of water and mix with Palette Knife.
Complete leaves as follows:
Smoothly cover the white basecoat with a smooth application of Irish Green. Allow to set.
Using either the Rounds or the Shader begin to shade and highlight the leaves. Fully load the desired brush with Irish Green and side load with Yellow Orange for highlighting. Use Leaf and Ivy Green for shading. Blend the desired colors on the palette and apply to each leaf following its contours. For best results, apply color smoothly and remove heavy ridges of color.
Be sure and darken the areas where a leaf overlaps another with Ivy Green.
Place Cobalt Jet Black on the palette and thin. Fully load the #2 Detail Liner and proceed to outline the leaves and add broken vein accents to each leaf. The outlining will define which leaf over-laps the other.
Using the Green Designer Liner, carefully apply stems to the Lily of the Valley. Apply the stems to one third of the nesting bowl and allow to dry, before proceeding to the next third. It is very easy to smear the fresh wet lines.
While the Green Designer Liner is drying, place Pure White French Dimensions on the palette. Add an equal amount of White E-Z Stroke to the French Dimensions. Mix with palette knife.
Using the #0 Detail fully loaded, apply a generous coat of the Pure White/White mix to each of the Lily of the Valley flowers. Again, work in thirds around the piece. When the color has set apply a second coat. The flowers should appear raised.
Tap in dots streaming down from the flowers here and there throughout the design. These are very small and can be grouped together.
Thin the Pure White/White mix with a few drops of water. Fully load the #2 Detail Liner with this thinned mix. Accent the green stem with a highlight of this white. One coat is sufficient, and the highlights are randomly applied.
Apply a thin wash of Yellow Orange to the very top of each flower using the #0 Detail.
Go back to the Green Designer Liner and place a tiny dot where the flower connects to the stem.
To set color, fire the ware to shelf cone 04.
Damp sponge the ware to remove any fired dust and to condition the piece for glazing.
Place Zinc Clear into a paper cup and if extremely thick, thin with water.
With #8 Soft Fan, apply three smooth flowing coats of glaze over piece, except the bottom of the ware. Be sure to allow color drying time between each coat.
When dry fire to shelf cone 6 with a ten-minute hold.
An Important Note
This project can be completed as written with low-fire white earthenware. However, there are a few minor changes.
1. Earthenware greenware or 04 Bisque may be used.
2. To set painted color, fire to cone 04. (same as before)
3. When final glazing is applied use S-1121 Crystal Clear Brushing.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using an AB710 #3/4 Flat Shader, base coat each Mushroom with SS138 Flat Black. Allow to dry!
Shake and stir well MM102 Copper Metallic. There are real metallic particles in this product. Place some on a palette.
Using an AB710 #3/4 Flat Shader Brush and a AB708 #10 Shader, apply 1 coat of MM102 Copper Metallic to every other section of the Mushroom. Allow to dry!
Apply a 2nd coat of the MM102 Copper Metallic to the same sections. While the MM102 Copper Metallic is still wet/damp use an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader or a CB102 #2 Soft Fan apply a coat of MM202 Green Patina over the wet MM102 Copper Metallic. In about 20 minutes or so you will start to see Patina forming. Allow to dry!
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader or a AB708 #10 Shader, apply 2 coats of AC502 Matte Brush on Sealer to the Patina areas. This will stop the Patina action. Allow to dry!
Using a small Sea Wool Sponge, sponge some MM102 Copper Metallic over the patina areas.
Using an AB708 #10 Shader, apply 1 coat of MM106 Steel Metallic to the areas next to the Patina areas. Allow to dry!
Apply a 2nd coat of the MM106 Steel Metallic to the same sections. While the MM106 Steel Metallic is still wet/damp use an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader or a CB102 #2 Soft Fan apply a coat of MM305 Rapid Rust over the wet MM106 Steel Metallic. In about 20 minutes or so you will start to see Rust forming. Allow it to dry over night for best Rust performance!
Using AB708 #10 Shader, apply 1 coat of SS138 Flat Black to the very top and to the diamond shapes of the Mushrooms. Allow to dry!
Using an AB710 #3/4 Flat Shader, apply 2 coats of AC502 Matte Brush on Sealer to the Mushrooms and 2 coats of AC501 Gloss Brush on Sealer to the black areas on the top of the mushrooms. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Cut out the pattern. Place on one side of the bird. Trace with a pencil. Flip the pattern over and trace on the other side. Use the pencil to draw a line connecting the chest on both sides of the bird. Draw a continuous line going around the beak.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to the chest. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Cut a piece of lace fabric that is big enough to cover one side of the chest and the front of the chest. Place the lace over one side of the chest. Dip the Soft Fan in water and brush over the lace to help it stick to the glaze. Use the wet Soft Fan to smooth the lace over the front of the chest. Cut off any extra lace. Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 1 coat over the lace.
Cut a piece of lace fabric that is big enough to cover the remaining side of the chest. Place the lace over the side of the chest and brush with the wet Soft Fan. Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 1 coat over the lace.
Using the Script Liner with SC-103 Lavendear, apply 1 coat over the entire chest. Allow glaze to loose it’s shine, but not dry completely. Remove the lace.
Using FD-258 Pure White, outline the wings, chest, and beak.
Using the Script Liner with SC-103 Lavendear, apply 1 puddle coat to the wings.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 1 puddle coat to the beak.
Using the Script Liner and Soft Fan with CG-998 Pink Pixie, apply 2 coats to the rest of the body.
In a separate bowl mix 1 part SW501 White gloss and 1 part SW507 Bright Green Gloss to create a custom lighter green color glaze.
Using a vinyl resist apply flowers to the outside of bowl. If not using vinyl resist, these can be drawn in lightly using a pencil.
Using #4 soft fan brush (RB144) glaze the inside and outside of the bowl, with custom green glaze mixed in step 2. If not using vinyl resist, avoid painting over pencil drawings.
On a separate plate, pour desired amount (approximately the size of a quarter) of the following Stroke and Coat colors:
SC006 Sunkissed,
SC102 Just Peachy
SC088 TuTu Tango
SC100 Makin Me Blush
SC003 Wine About It
SC097 Cant-elope
SC055 Yella Bout It
SC033 Fruit of the Vine
SC085 Orkid
SC008 Just Froggy
SC043 Lettuce Alone
Remove vinyl resist flowers and using 2/0 Detail Liner (CB220) brush, apply 3 coats of the following Stroke and Coat glaze to the flowers, leaves and stems.
Using a vinyl resist or draw lightly with a pencil “BRING MAY FLOWERS “ on the inside rim of the bowl. Using SC043 Lettuce Alone glaze wording with a 2/0 Detail Liner (CB220).
Using either a vinyl resists or lightly hand drawing with a pencil, draw in clouds to the inside and outside of the bowl. Along with clouds, create an umbrella and rain drops to the outside of the bowl using vinyl resist or pencil.
Glaze clouds with SW501 White Gloss using a #6 Pointed Round brush (CB406)
In a separate bowl mix 1 part SW501 White gloss and 1 part SW510 Blue Gloss to create a custom lighter blue color glaze
Using #4 soft fan brush (RB144) glaze the inside and outside of the bowl, avoiding clouds, umbrella and raindrops, with custom blue glaze mixed in step 4.
If using a vinyl resist, remove and glaze raindrops with SC045 My Blue Heaven and SC011 Blue Yonder. If hand drawn, avoid pencil shapes while glazing.
Glaze umbrella with SC024 Dandelion, SC050 Orange Ya Happy, SC043 Lettuce Alone and SC073 Candy Apple Red. Glaze the handle of the umbrella with SC015 Tuxedo and SC035 Gray Hare.
Before clouds are completely dry, highlight cloud shapes using a 2/0 Detail Liner (CB220) with a slightly watered down SW510 Blue Gloss to create shadows and depth.
When the clouds inside the bowl are completely dry, apply vinyl lettering or hand write using a #4 Pointed Round Brush “APRIL SHOWERS” with SW510 Blue Gloss
Wheel throw, coil build, or begin with a pre-formed vessel at the leather hard stage.
Using a paddle or flat ruler, pat the sides of the leather hard vessel to flatten the front and back.
Using a carving tool, carve out chunks of texture over the whole form to give the illusion of brush stroke texture.
Allow form to completely dry.
Bisque fire to cone 04.
Apply three coats of SC042 to the top half of the vessel with the CB624 fan brush.
Allow to dry.
Apply three coats of SC054 to the bottom half of the vessel with the CB624 fan brush.
Allow to dry.
Apply a single thin layer of SC024 to the top half of the vessel over the SC042.
Apply highlights to the top portion of the vessel with SC016 to mimic the highlights seen in the paintings.
Using the RB100 detail brush, apply accent lines of SC05 along the edges of the vessel and add “Vincent” where VanGogh would have signed his work on the painting.
Allow to dry.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Flowers
Roll out one large slab of clay to make multiple flowers, or multiple small slabs for individual flowers.
Compress the clay slabs front and back with a plastic card.
Using a needle tool or toothpick, lightly draw a flower shape on the clay. You can do round flowers, petal flowers, or a mix of both.
Cut out the drawn flower shape and remove excess clay.
If you’re doing a flower with petals, carve away a thin layer of clay on the background petals to make them appear farther away.
For both round flowers and petal flowers, add in the same carved texture that was added on the vessel to emulate brush stroke texture to the front and back of each flower.
Roll a ball of clay and flatten to create the inner part of the flower.
Add dots with the back end of a pencil or paintbrush to the flattened round piece of clay.
Scratch and attach the inner portion to the flower.
Scratch and attach a coil to the back of each flower using a pencil or dowel rod to create a bump of space between the coil and flower. This will create the slot to put the dowel rod stem into the flower later.
Allow to fully dry.
Bisque fire to cone 04
Using the CB624 fan brush, apply 3 coats of SC026 to the backs of the flowers.
With the same brush, apply 2 coats of CG963 to the back of the flowers as well.
Using the CB624 fan brush, apply two coats of SC042 to the front of the flowers (petal area), leaving the raised center portion of the flower unpainted.
Apply one thin layer of SC006 to the petals to add a little bit of bright yellow highlight.
Apply two coats of S2729 to the petals.
In the center seed area of the flowers, apply 3 coats of S2725 with the CB624 fan brush.
Allow to dry.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Assemble! Use found sticks or painted dowel rods to become the flower stems. Floral foam in the bottom of the vessel helps the flowers stand up straight.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, basecoat each chicken with OS476 Black. Allow to Dry!
Using a DB803 #8 Round, drybrush OS489 Saddle Brown body and top part of the wing of each chicken also the area between the tail feathers followed by OS471 Medium Brown then OS598 Light Umber. Highlight the upper wing area with OS431 White
Using a DB803 #8 Round, drybrush OS598 Light Umber to the heard and upper part of the body, then OS445 French Vanilla followed by OS431 White.
Using a DB803 #8 Round and a DB802 #5 Round, (refer to the photo) drybrush parts of the tail and the wing as follows:
Green area –OS595 Accent Green then OS488 Christmas Green then highlighted with OS466 Avocado with a touch of OS431 White in the brush blending the colors.
Blue areas – OS541 Northern Blue then OS459 Bright Blue followed by OS457 Medium Blue.
Purple areas – OS569 Concord then OS591 Dusty Violet followed by OS591 Dusty Violet with a touch of OS431 White in the brush.
Using a DB801 #3 Round, drybrush the comb and waddle with OS503 Barnyard Red then OS455 Holly Red highlight with OS449 Bright Red.
Using a DB801 #3 Round, drybrush the beak with OS598 Light Umber then with OS436 Gold highlight with a little OS431 White in the brush.
Using a AB701 #0 Detail and a AB702 #10/0 Liner, paint he eyes with OS476 Black then add highlights of OS457 Medium Blue and OS431 White.
Using a AB702 #10/0 Liner, detail in-between the wing and tail feathers with OS476 Black.
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, apply 2 coats of AC502 Matte Brush on Sealer to the chickens. Allow to dry between each coat.
Using an AB710 ¾ Flat Shader, apply 1 coat of SS113 White Iridescent to the tail feathers of the rooster (Fred).
Using an AB701 #0 Detail, apply 2 coats of AC501 Gloss Brush on Sealer to the eyes and the beak of the chickens. Allow to Dry!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
In a small cup, thin some FN056 Heather to the consistency of coffee cream. Pour the glaze slowly; roll the glaze around inside the vase pouring out the excess. Leave the vase upside down to fully drain. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 4 coats of FN301 Marshmallow White to the outside of the vase. Allow to dry!
Trace the pattern onto the piece using AC230 Clay Carbon Paper and a pencil. You may find it easy to cut slits in the pattern so that it will conform to the shape of the vase.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 1 coat of FN055 Bubble Gum to the pink flower petals. Load the brush again with FN055 Bubble Gun and side load in FN025 Raspberry Whip, stroke in each pink flower petal.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 1 coat of FN058 Apple Green to the green flower petals. Load the brush again with FN056 Apple Green and side load in FN021 Olive, stroke in each green flower petal.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 1 coat of FN059 Cashmere to the tan flower petals. Load the brush again with FN059 Cashmere and side load in FN060 Mushroom, stroke in each tan flower petal.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 1 coat of FN056 Heather to the purple flower petals. Load the brush again with FN056 Heather and side load in FN018 Bright Blue, stroke in each purple flower petal.
Using a CB-202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 1 coat of FN002 Yellow to each flower centers. Load the brush again with FN02 Yellow and side load in FN020 Medium Green, stroke in each flower center.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, load the brush with FN058 Apple Green then side load in FN020 Medium Green. Stroke both sides of each leaf.
Using a CB110 #10/0 Liner, outline and detail the flower and the leaves with EZ0412 Cobalt Jet Black. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
In a small cup, thin some FN055 Bubble Gum to the consistency of coffee cream. Pour the glaze slowly; roll the glaze around inside the vase pouring out the excess. Leave the vase upside down to fully drain. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN001 White to the outside of the vase. Allow to dry!
Trace the pattern onto the piece using AC230 Clay Carbon Paper and a pencil. Do not trace the details of the leaves just the basic shape.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 2 coats of FN055 Bubble Gum to each flower petal.
When dry, take the pattern and cut out the shape. Place the pattern over the painted flower and trace the flower petals using the AC230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern.
Using a CB308 #8 Flat Shader, side load with FN025 Raspberry Whip and shade the lower section of each flower petal.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 2 coats of FN058 Apple Green to the leaves.
Using a CB308 #8 Flat Shader, side load some FN020 Medium Green and shade the leaves.
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 2 coats of FN002 Yellow to the center of the flower.
Using a CB308 #8 Flat Shader, side load with some FN057 Periwinkle and shade around the outer edge of the flower and leaves on the background.
Using a CB110 #10/0 Liner, outline and detail the flower and the leaves with EZ047 Thundercloud Grey. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
In a small cup, thin some FN057 Periwinkle to the consistency of coffee cream. Pour the glaze slowly; roll the glaze around inside the vase pouring out the excess. Leave the vase upside down to fully drain. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN001 White to the outside of the vase. Allow to dry!
Trace the pattern onto the piece using AC230 Clay Carbon Paper and a pencil. Do not trace the detail of the bird, just the basic shape.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 2 coats of FN057 Periwinkle to the entire bird.
When dry, take the pattern and cut out the bird. Place the pattern over the painted bird and trace the details on the bird using the AC230 Clay Carbon Paper.
Using a CB308 #8 Flat Shader, side load some FN028 Wisteria Purple and shade the bird’s wing, chest, and tail.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 2 coats of FN055 Bubble Gum to the flower petals. Apply 2 coats of FN058 Apple Green to the leaves.
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 2 coats of FN002 Yellow to the centers of the flowers and to the beak of the bird.
Using a CB308 #8 Flat Shader, side load with some FN025 Raspberry Whip and shade around the flower centers.
Using a CB110 #10/0 Liner, outline and detail as follows: Bird – FN028 Wisteria Purple; Leaves – FN020 Medium Green; flower – FN025 Raspberry Whip. Allow to dry!
Using your chosen carving tool, hollow out the two halves of the ball of clay leaving two small clay bowls with walls around1/4th inch thick.
Smoosh the excess clay from hollowing out the sphere back into another ball. Cover and set aside.
Pinch the sides of both halves of the hollowed-out sphere to compress and slightly widen the two bowl shapes.
Scratch and attach the two bowls back together into a hollow sphere.
Remove the ball of excess clay from under the cover and make one cut slightly off center all the way through the ball.
With the larger of the halves, use a pinch pot technique to form a cone shape. This will be the nose.
Cut the smaller half of the ball into 4 equal parts. These will be the legs.
Punch a small hole in the main sphere where you’d like your nose to sit.
Scratch and attach the nose to the main sphere over the hole.
Round off the legs and cut off excess clay until they’re as short as you’d like them.
Roll the extra clay from cutting down the legs into a ball.
Cut this ball in half. One half will be the nose tip, the other will make the ears and tail.
Scratch and attach legs, nose, and tail.
Use the back end of a paintbrush or carving tool to press eyes into the head.
Outline with the toothpick where you’d like the quill area to start and stop. You can use a carving tool to carve away a little clay from the outside of the line to help the quill area stand out better.
Press in and drag the toothpick in short strokes backwards all over the back of the hedgehog to imitate the look of quills.
Scratch and attach the ears over the quill area slightly above where the eyeballs sit.
IMPORTANT: In the bottom of the hedgehog, punch a hole through the body to the hollowed-out center.
Allow to dry completely.
Bisque fire to cone 04.
Using a script liner brush, apply two coats of EL125 to the body and ears of the hedgehog.
Using the script liner brush, apply 3 coats of your chosen elements glaze to the quill area of the hedgehog.
Dip the back of your brush into SC016 and apply in the hole for the eyes.
Once the SC016 is dry, put a tiny dot of SC015 on the tip of your brush and insert into the eye hole for the pupil.
Allow glaze to fully dry.
Carefully stilt or wipe the bottom of the feet to remove any excess glaze before placing on the kiln shelf.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of FN001 White to the top side of the plate. Allow to dry!
Print 2 copies of the pattern. Place both copies on top of each other and cut out around the outside edge of the bunny pattern not the lettering.
Position one of the patterns on the plate. Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, load the brush with water then lift half of the pattern, apply the water to the plate then lay the pattern down. Repeat with the other side of the bunny pattern. Using a piece of paper towel, lay the paper towel over the bunny pattern and press on the paper towel. This will help absorb any extra water and secure the pattern to the plate. There should be no edges of the patten sticking up, if so re-wet and press with the paper towel to secure.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN057 Periwinkle to the top of the plate. Do not brush the glaze toward the pattern but away from the pattern to avoid the glaze going under the pattern.
Remove the pattern from the plate before the glaze dries. Allow the plate to dry!
Place the other cut out pattern in position, slide a sheet of AC230 Clay Carbon paper under the pattern and trace the details of the pattern. Also, trace the lettering.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 3 coats of SC100 Making Me Blush to the inside of the ears, feet and on the nose. Allow to dry!
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round and a CB202 #2 Detail, referring to the pattern, apply 3 coats each of the Stroke & Coat colors to the egg. Add dots with the end of a brush handle or a stylus.
Using a CB202 #2 Detail, apply 3 coats of SC104 Grape Expectations to the lettering Happy Easter.
Place some EZ047 Thundercloud Grey and EZ030 Rose onto a palette, using a CB308 #8 Flat Shader, shade around the bunny’s body and the muzzle with the EZ047 Thundercloud Grey. Shade the ears, feet, and nose with EZ030 Rose.
Using a CB110 #10/0 Liner, outline and detail the bunny and the egg with EZ012 Cobalt Jet Black.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN058 Matcha to the back of the plate. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN031 Ivory Speck to the top side of the plate and to the outside of the mug but not on the handle. Allow to dry!
Using a pencil and AC230 Clay Carbon Paper, trace the pattern onto the plate and the outside of the mug.
Place some of each EZ Stroke on a palette.
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner, apply 1 coat of EZ026 Yellow Orange to the outer half of each flower petal then apply 1 coat of EZ002 Cinderella Pink to the lower half of each petal blending into the EZ026 Yellow Orange. Repeat this step for a second coat.
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner or a CB310 #10 Flat Shader, shade the outer part of each petal with EZ026 Yellow Orange. Also apply 2 coats to the center of the flower.
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner, shade the lower half of each petal with EZ030 Rose.
Using a CB110 #10/0 Liner, stroke in some fine vein lines from the center of the flower out with EZ030 Rose.
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of EZ003 Irish Green to the leaves and stems of the flower.
10. Using a CB310 #10 Flat Shader, Shade the leaves and stem with EZ033 Ivy Green.
11. Using a CB110 #10/0 Liner, apply 2 coats of EZ030 Rose to the Happy Mother’s Day.
12. Using a CB110 #10/0 Liner, outline the flower and the leaves with EZ012 Cobalt Jet Black.
13. Apply dots of FD258 Pure White to the flower centers. When dry apply 1 coat of EZ026 Yellow Orange over the dots.
14. Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan and a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 3-4 coats of FN055 Raspberry Smoothie to the back of the plate, to the inside of the mug and the handle of the mug. Allow to dry!
Set pot on its side so the opening can become your monsters mouth and smooth out any cracks with your finger.
Using small pieces of clay sculpt features for your monster (eyes, teeth, tongue, arms, legs, tail, fins, etc.).
Attach the features to your pot by slipping and scoring them together.
Smooth out your connections with your fingers and water.
Let your pot dry slowly.
Once it is completely dry, bisque fire your pot to cone 04.
Glaze:
Wipe your bisqueware with a damp sponge.
Coat your pot with 3 coats of your favorite Jungle Gem or Element (Jungle Gems Pictured: CG-785 Royal Fantasy, CG-707 Woodland Fantasy, CG-998 Pink Pixie, CG-718 Blue Caprice, S-2702 Northern Lights ) (Elements Pictured:EL-124 Stormy Blue, EL-123 Patina, EL-132 Rust Red)
Using a detail brush apply 3 coats of SC-16 CottonTail to the eyes and teeth
Using a detail brush create the pupils with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 3 coats
Add color to the tongue using a detail brush and 3 coats of SC-95 Pinkie Swear
Use stilts to fire pieces to cone 06
Form
1.5 -2 pounds of white clay per piece (Laguna’s EM-210)
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN001 White to each piece except the beak, comb, and wattle. Allow to dry!
Trace the pattern onto the piece using AC230 Clay Carbon Paper and a pencil. Adjust the pattern to fit the areas or place as many that you want.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round. Apply 2 coats of SC088 Tu Tu Tango to the orange flowers and 2 coats of SC012 Moody Blue to the blue flowers.
Using a CB308 #8 Flat Shader, load the brush with SC052 Toad-ily Green. Stroke in each leaf one side at a time. After all leaves are painted, load the brush with SC036 Irish Luck then stroke in on one side of each leaf.
Using a pencil, sketch in the scallops on the wings, tail and around the neck.
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner and a CB404 # 4 Pointed Round, apply 3 coats of SC012 Moody Blue to all the scallops.
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 3 coats of SC074 Hot Tamale to the comb and the waddle of each chicken.
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 3 coats of SC024 Dandelion to each beak.
Using the end of a brush handle and a pencil eraser, apply dots of SC012 Moody Blue to the tail and wing areas. Refer to the color photo. Allow to dry!
Add a dot of SC016 Cotton Tail to the center of each of the SC012 Moody Blue dots. Allow to dry!
Using a CB404 #4 Pointed Round, side load the brush with SC002 Melon-choly and shade the cheeks.
Using a CB110#10/0 Liner, outline and detail including the eyes with EZ012 Cobalt Jet Black. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe the bisque to remove any dust.
Using CB604 Soft Fan to apply 3 coats of FN001 White. Let dry.
Trace the pattern of the basic mushrooms and fern stems only using AC230 Clay Carbon and a pencil
Place the EZ-Strokes out onto a tile.
Thin EZ-022 Beige to a milk consistency and fully load the CB-602 Soft Fan with color and flood in the large mushroom and stem, the middle mushroom and stem and only to the tallest mushroom stem.Add some EZ047 Thundercloud Grey to the Beige color to darken and apply to the tallest mushroom cap.Let dry.It is important to let the color dry before continuing with the floating of the other EZ-Strokes over the previous color.If the color is still damp, the color can be lifted off.
Use some of the same darkened Beige/Thundercloud Grey mixture to shade the stems of the mushrooms using CB404 Pointed Round towards the lower sections where they go behind the large mushroom.
Slightly thin some EZ055 Brick.When applying thinned color to shade and area, you can always add more layers of color to darken than trying to remove to heavy of color to an area.Load the CB-404 Pointed Round with water and tip the brush with the thinned color.Apply it to the sides of the mushrooms to give dimension.While the color is still wet, rinse the brush, reload it with water and soften the inner edges of the color.Shade the mushrooms stems in the same manner.The shading is darker where the stems go behind the larger mushroom.Under the large mushroom, shade the left side and up under the cap.Shade the bottom edges of the mushrooms in an uneven manner.Let dry.
Use CB110 Liner to apply thinned EZ47 Thundercloud Grey to the gills on the middle mushroom.
To add depth to the bottom edges of the mushrooms use EZ055 Brick and further darken the indentations with thinned EZ010 French Brown.Add some detail to the stems with both colors.
To the spots in the mushroom caps apply very thin EZ055 Brick and thin EZ034 Orange.Darken with more thinned EZ055 Brick and EZ010 French Brown.
Use a damp Silk Decorating Sponge (not the Synthetic Sponge) loaded with EZ018 Chartreuse tipped with EZ042 Teal to pounce in the grass areas near the mushroom stems and the towards the right side of the ground.Rinse the sponge and load with some thinned EZ055 Brick to sponge in the two lower left areas of the ground.
The stems to the ferns are thinned EZ071 Dark Olive using CB110 Liner.To paint in the leaves to the fern use EZ018 Chartreuse to the smaller leaves towards the top of the ferns.As you move down on painting the leaves use EZ003 Irish Green and towards the bottom leaves, use thinned EZ028 Leaf Green.You can vary the strength of the color and intersperse some thinned EZ071 Dark Olive and thinned EZ042 Teal to give variety the green leaves.
Use CB-110 Liner loaded with the EZ018 Leaf Green, EZ071 Dark Olive and EZ042 Teal to paint in the grass blades in the pattern.Vary the height and colors when painting in the grass blades.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe the bisque to remove any dust.
Use CB604 Soft Fan to apply 3 coats of FN053 Mint to the entire platter. Let dry.
Use the Scissors to cut out the individual components of the pattern. Place the bunny pattern in the center of the platter and trace it using AC-230 Clay Carbon and a Pencil. Trace the individual pieces of the pattern randomly to the platter field. Change the orientation of the pieces of the pattern. The spacing of the pieces should be about 1” apart. Try not to place the same piece next to one another as well. The field should look random and balanced.
Apply 3 coats of SC016 Cotton Tail to the bunny excluding the shaded areas on the pattern using CB-404 Pointed Round. Apply 3 coats of SC001 Pink-A-Dot to the shaded areas using CB404 Pointed Round.
Using CB404 Pointed Round to apply 3 coats of SC045 My Blue Heaven to some of the eggs, other eggs are 3 coats of SC103 Lavendear or SC102 Just Peachy.
Fill the AC-219 Designer Bottle with Writer Tip with about ½” of one of the Stroke and Coat colors and fill in the individual pieces of the pattern as noted. Only one coat is needed using the Designer Bottle with the Writer Tip. Rinse the bottle and tip after each use.SC028 Blue Isle to the 7 leaf shapes and stems.SC042 Butter Me Up to the single flowers and to the daisy centers.SC052 Toad-ily Green to the daisy leaves and Queen’s Ann Lace stems and leaves.SC016 Cotton Tail to the daisy petals and dots to the Queen’s Ann Lace.
Roll a coat of Black Rapid Roll on the interior of your shape. Apply three coats of Black Foundation to the exterior of the bisque shape.
Trace over the dragonfly or butterfly design while the black is still wet to make a slight impression of the outline.
Apply two to three coats of White Cobblestone to the dragonfly and butterfly wings, body and tail. Three coats will give you a bigger, chunkier look, and two coats will give you a small crackle pattern.
Before the Cobblestone completely dries, apply Stroke & Coat colors of your choice to the wings. Only apply one coat and blend the colors where they overlap.
Do not overbrush the colors to the point they soften and move the Cobblestone or mix with the Cobblestone. Over brushing or thick application of the color can affect the Cobblestone pattern. It is also important that the color be applied before the Cobblestone gets dry and flaky. Applying color at this point can cause the Cobblestone to come off.
Apply a coat of Wax Resist over the Cobblestone areas before they are completely dry. This will help hold the product in place until it can be placed in the kiln. The wax will burn away in firing.
Add dots of white French Dimension to the background area.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan brush apply 2 coats of SW177 Raspberry Mist to the top and bottom of the plate.
Once dry, use a CB604 #4 Soft Fan brush to apply 2 coats of SW101 Stoned Denim over top of the SW177 Raspberry Mist.
Once dry, using a RB118 #8 Round Brush or a Sponge on a Stick, paint 2 coats of SW408 White Flux in circles in various sizes in the top center section of the plate. Be sure to leave a small amount of space between painted circles.
Using a RB118 #8 Round Brush, glaze a line of SW408 White Flux with 2 coats around the edge of the plate rim.
Inspired by Kathy McGuire’s Frozen Pond technique.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Cut around the outside edge of each pattern. Tape the patterns together along the straight edge. Make sure the pattern lines up correctly in the middle.
Place the pattern over the front of the plate. Slide the AC230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern and trace with a pencil. Move the AC230 Clay Carbon Paper as you trace each section until the entire pattern is traced.
Using RB106 #6 Scrip Liner with EL149 Lavender Flower, EL118 Blue Grotto, and EL130 Sea Green, apply 2 coats to each flower. After the second coat is dry, apply a thick, irregular coat to the center of each flower section. Refer to the pattern for color placement. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using RB106 #6 Scrip liner with AC302 Wax resist, apply 1 coat over the center of each flower section, leaving a small border of glaze around each flower section. Do not get any wax onto the bare bisque.
Using RB106 #6 Script Liner with EL101 Oyster Shell, apply 2 puddle coats between the flowers. Allow glaze to dry between coats. The wax will keep the glaze from covering the flowers, allowing it to combo with the edge colors.
Using RB144 #4 Soft Fan with EL101 Oyster Shell, apply 3 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use a #4 Soft Fan brush to paint the outside of the planter with 2 coats of Spruce It Up.
When the glaze is dry, sketch the design onto the planter using a pencil.
Use a #4 Round to fill in the centers of the daisies with 2 coats with Glo-Worm and Orange-A-Peel, alternating the color for every daisy.
Use a #6 Script Liner to fill in the petals of the Orange-A-Peel daisy with 2 coats of Snow Gems Citrus.
Use a #6 Script Liner to add a scoop of Moody Blue to the remaining Snow Gems on your palette. Fill in the petals on the Glo-Worm daisies with the tinted Snow Gems.
Use a #6 Script Liner to add stems and leaves to the daisies, Lavendear for the Orange-A-Peel daisies, and Orange-A-Peel for the Glo-Worm daisies.
Use the #4 Soft Fan brush to paint the inside of the planter with 3 coats of Glo-Worm.
Use the 10/0 Liner to outline the entire design with 1-2 thick and even coats of Moody Blue. Add a grid pattern to the feet of the planter.
Use the eraser end of a pencil to add Moody Blue dots along the rim of the planter.
Check to make sure no areas of the planter are unglazed.
Wipe down bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dirt or dust.
Prepare a 1:1 ratio of each Stroke & Coat color with water in a portion cup and mix together. If the color is too thin or translucent, add a bit more Stroke & Coat to the mixture.
Beginning with the darkest color, apply drips of the water and glaze mixture all over the piece using the Script Liner brush.
Apply drips of the second darkest color to white bisque areas using the Script Liner brush.
Apply drips of the third and lightest color to the left over white bisque areas with the Script Liner brush.
Go back and fill in any leftover areas of white bisque using the colors of your choice. Overlap new drips in any areas that may need more color variety.
Allow the piece to dry.
Using the Designer Liner, outline larger areas of color or where the colors transition.
(Optional) Brush on or dip in clear glaze.Note: no clear glaze will result in a matte finish for both the Stroke & Coat and Designer Liner.
Allow piece to dry.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Form
MB1626 Small Faceted Mushroom
MB1636 Small Tree Silhouette
Colors
SC006 Sunkissed (1 oz)
SC089 Cutie Pie Coral(1 oz)
SC095 Pinkie Swear (1 oz)
SG402 White (1 oz)
Optional
NTBR Clear One Brushing
Decorating Accessories
RB106 Script LinerBrush
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sponge
Water
2oz portion cups
Low-Fire|Earthenware Bisque|Home Décor
406|403|460
47740
Product Discovery: Compare & Contrast Foundations and Stroke & Coat
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
On the back of the canvas, use SG-401 Black to write “Stroke and Coat” on the top half and “Foundations” on the bottom half.
Use the ruler to measure 3” down from the top on both sides of the canvas. Mark with a pencil. Use the MC-001 6mm Low Track Masking Tape to make a line going through the marks. Make sure the tape goes completely down both sides of the canvas.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-11 Blue Yonder, apply 3 coats above the tape. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-018 Bright Blue, apply 3 coats below the tape. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Pull up the tape before the glaze is completely dry.
Use the scissors to cut the fish from the pattern. Place them on the canvas and trace around them with the pencil.
Using the Script Liner with SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 3 coats to the upper fish. Avoid the eye. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with FN-052 Tangerine, apply 3 coats to the lower fish. Avoid the eye. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, make a large dot for the eye and dots coming from the mouth on the upper fish.
Using the Script Liner with FN-001 White, make a large dot for the eye and dots coming from the mouth on the lower fish.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the details on the upper fish. Use the Script Liner to fill in the dividing line on the canvas.
Using the Detail Liner with FN-009 Black, outline the detail on the lower fish.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place a stencil onto the canvas.
Take the plastic key card and scoop out around 1 TBS of SG-501 Sculpting Medium. While holding the stencil in place, evenly spread the sculpting medium over the stencil.
Gently lift the stencil.
While the sculpting medium is drying, use SG-405 Green, SG-408 Orange and SG-411 Purple to make dots and lines around the design. Allow it to dry completely.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-212 Blue Diamond, apply 3 coats over the front and sides of the canvas. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 06.
Form
MB-1352 6×6” Square Clay Canvas
Colors
FN-212 Blue Diamond
SG-405 Green
SG-408 Orange
SG-411 Purple
SG-501 Sculpting Medium
Decorating Accessories
RB-144 #4 Soft Fan
Stencil
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sponge
Water
Pencil
Plastic Key Card
MCP Projects (Private)
1129
47759
Product Discovery: Compare Sculpting Medium and Snowfall
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use MC-001 6mm Low Track Masking Tape to tape the canvas off into 4 equal squares.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-9 Jaded, SC-30 Blue Dawn, SC-88 Tu Tu Tango or SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 3 coats to each of the squares. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Remove the tape before the glaze is dry.
Using the 1.5” circle stamp, punch 6 holes in the paper. Cut them out from the paper leaving at least ¼” around each circle.
Place 1 circle in the center of the square glaze with SC-88 Tu Tu Tango and 2 circles in the square glazed with SC-9 Jaded. Using the Script Liner with SG-501 Sculpting Medium, apply 1 thick coat to the circles. Carefully lift up the paper.
Place 1 circle in the center of the square glazed with SC-30 Blue Dawn and 2 circles in the square glazed with SC-97 Cant-elope. Using the Script Liner with SG-302 Snowfall, apply 1 thick coat to the circles. Carefully lift up the paper.
Allow all circles to completely dry.
Using the Script Liner with SC-88 Tu Tu Tango, apply 1 coat to a circle in each of the squares with 2 circles. Using the Script Liner with SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 1 coat to the other circle in the squares with 2 circles.
Using the Script Liner with S-2101 Clear Brushing Glaze, apply 2 coats to the lines where the tape was located. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the scissors to cut out the cactus pattern.
Place the pattern on the canvas and trace with the pencil.
Using the Script Liner with EL-142 Grass, apply 2 coats to the cactus. Brush slightly past the pencil line. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
After the glaze is dry, brush with water and place the pattern back down. Press the pattern to stick it to the glaze. Blot with a paper towel.
Using the Soft Fan EL-145 Ginger Root, apply 2 coats to the background and sides of the canvas. Make sure to brush over the edges of the paper. Remove the paper before the second coat is dry.
Use SG-401 Black to outline the cactus. The glaze must be dry to use the tip, otherwise use the Detail Liner.
Using the Script Liner with SG-401 Black, shade the edges of the cactus. Use thinned SG-401 Black with the Detail Liner to make the lines on the cactus.
Using the Detail Liner with SG-402 White, press in marks on the cactus. Use SG-401 Black to make tick marks over the white.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Center the SL-446 Atomic Stencil on the canvas. Trace with the pencil.
Use SG-404 Blue and SG-410 Bright Blue to trace over the pattern. Add lines and dots to make the pattern more interesting. Allow Designer Liner to dry completely before continuing.
Using the Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of CC-101 Transparent to the top of the canvas. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SP-212 Speckled Moody Blue to the edges of the canvas. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 06.
Thin SS-138 with water. Use a sponge to apply over the top of the canvas. Wipe off with a paper towel.
Form
MB-1352 6×6” Square Clay Canvas
Colors
CC-101 Transparent
SG-404 Blue
SG-410 Bright Blue
SP-212 Speckled Moody Blue
SS-138 Flat Black
Decorating Accessories
RB-144 #4 Soft Fan
SL-446 Atomic Stencil or another stencil of choice
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of EL-118 Blue Grotto to the pinwheel. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Pour around 2 TBS of PC-601 Clear Cascade, PC-602 White Cascade, EL-211 Volcanic Glow and EL- 118 Blue Grotto onto the palette.
Using the same Soft Fan, dip it into the PC-601 Clear Cascade and glob it randomly onto pinwheel several times.
Using the same Soft Fan, dip it into the EL-211 Volcanic Glow and glob it randomly onto pinwheel. Make sure to put some globs over the PC-601 Clear Cascade.
Using the same Soft Fan, dip it into PC-602 White Cascade and add glob it randomly onto the pinwheel. Make fewer, smaller globs.
Using the same Soft Fan, dip it into EL-118 Blue Grotto and add some more globs to the pinwheel. Make sure to go over some of the PC-602 White Cascade.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust
Using the Soft Fan with SC-55 Yella Bout It, apply 3 coats to the front and sides of the canvas. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Before the glaze is bone dry, lay the pattern over the canvas and trace with the pencil. You should be able to see the pattern in the glaze.
Using the Script Liner with SC-74 Hot Tamale, apply 1 coat to the top/left flower, 2 coats to the top/right flower and 3 coats to the bottom flower. Allow glaze to dry between coats
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the flowers and lettering.
Squeeze a small amount of SC-15 Tuxedo onto the palette. Thin with water. Use the soft fan to apply a thin coat over the bricks. Wipe off any excess with a damp sponge.
Draw your logo on a piece of paper or use the pattern. Make sure it will fit on the slab of clay if you draw your own.
Place the pattern over the slab of clay. Trace the pattern with the pencil. You should be able to see your lines in the clay.
Using the Script Liner with SC-73 Candy Apple Red, apply 1 coat to the top of the logo. Using the Script Liner with SC-87 Ruby Slippers, apply 1 coat to the bottom of the logo and blend with the top. Apply a total of 3 coats. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, make a thick outline around the lettering. Apply a second coat after the first one is dry.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, make dots of various sizes around and touching the logo.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-11 Blue Yonder, SC-73 Candy Apple Red or SC-87 Ruby Slippers, apply 2 coats inside each of the circles.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, add highlights to the logo.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the lettering and circles.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use MC-001 6mm Low Tack Masking Tape to tape the canvas off into 4 equal squares.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-9 Jaded, SC-30 Blue Dawn, SC-88 Tu Tu Tango or SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 3 coats to each of the squares. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Remove the tape before the glaze is dry.
Using the pattern, cut out the circles.
Place 1 circle in the center of the square glaze with SC-88 Tu Tu Tango and 2 circles in the square glazed with SC-9 Jaded. Using the Script Liner with SG-501 Sculpting Medium, apply 1 thick coat to the circles. Carefully lift up the paper.
Place 1 circle in the center of the square glazed with SC-30 Blue Dawn and 2 circles in the square glazed with SC-97 Cant-elope. Using the Script Liner with SG-302 Snowfall, apply 1 thick coat to the circles. Carefully lift up the paper.
Allow all circles to completely dry.
Using the Script Liner with SC-88 Tu Tu Tango, apply 1 coat to a circle in each of the squares with 2 circles. Using the Script Liner with SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 1 coat to the other circle in the squares with 2 circles.
Using the Script Liner with S-2101 Clear Brushing Glaze, apply 2 coats to the lines where the tape was located. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 3 coats to the front and sides of the canvas. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the ruler and pencil, make a diagonal line across the front of the canvas. Then make 2 lines perpendicular to the first line. They should be spaced to create similar sized areas.
Using the Detail Liner with AC-302 Wax Resist, trace over the pencil lines.
Using the Script Liner with SG-201 Black Cobblestone, apply 1, 2 and 3 coats to each area above the diagonal line. Only apply additional coats after the glaze is no longer shiny. It is important to make coats even.
Using the Script Liner with SG-202 White Cobblestone, apply 1, 2 and 3 coats to each area below the diagonal line. Only apply additional coats after the glaze is no longer shiny. It is important to make coats even.
Using the Script Liner with SC-11 Blue Yonder, apply 1 coat to the border of each section glazed with SG-202 White Cobblestone. Only apply after the glaze is no longer shiny.
Split the ball in half and set aside one of the halves.
Form the mushroom cap by pinching the edges of the cut side.
Pinch up the center of the top of the half sphere to form a rounded point.
Carve gills into the underside of the mushroom cap with a toothpick. Set aside.
Roll the remaining half of the sphere into a thick coil slightly thicker on one end to form the base of the stem.
Cut the stem to size and hollow out the stem.
Fit stem to underside of the mushroom cap.
Remove stem, slip and score the area where the stem connects to the cap and attach the two pieces together.
Using the Soft Fan with FN009 Black, apply 2 coats to the whole mushroom. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the script liner brush, apply two coats of SC104 to the underside/gills of the cap.
Using a drybrush technique with the script liner brush, apply 1 coat of SC103 to highlight the ridges of the gills.
Using the Script Liner with SG202 White Cobblestone, apply 2-3 coats to the cap of the mushroom. When the final coat loses its shine, apply 1 coat of SC101 to the main portion of the cap and SC103 to the dots.
Using the Script Liner with SG202 White Cobblestone, apply 2-3 coats to the stem of the mushroom. When the final coat loses its shine, apply 1 coat of SC103.
Allow to fully dry, leaving the bottom and inside of the mushroom unglazed.
Fire to cone 04.
VARIATIONS AND ADAPTATIONS: Uneven coats of White Cobblestone will give more variation in your cobblestone effect after firing.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN009 Black, apply 2 coats to the whole mushroom. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with AC302 Wax Resist, outline circles on the cap of the mushroom.
Using the script liner brush, apply two coats of SC104 to the underside/gills of the cap.
Using a drybrush technique with the script liner brush, apply 1 coat of SC103 to highlight the ridges of the gills.
Using the Script Liner with SG202 White Cobblestone, apply 2-3 coats to the cap of the mushroom. When the final coat loses its shine, apply 1 coat of SC-101 to the main portion of the cap and SC103 to the dots.
Using the Script Liner with SG202 White Cobblestone, apply 2-3 coats to the stem of the mushroom. When the final coat loses its shine, apply 1 coat of SC103.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
VARIATIONS AND ADAPTATIONS: Uneven coats of White Cobblestone will give more variation in your cobblestone effect after firing.
Apply three coats of FN054 to the whole tile with the fan brush, allowing to dry between coats.
Once the background is dry, place the Clay Carbon Transfer Paper down over the tile and the pattern on top.
Trace the pattern with a pencil.
Remove pattern and transfer paper.
Apply two coats of FN017 to the eggs with the script liner.
Once the background is dry, apply two to three coats of SG202 to the eggs, leaving a small line of FN017 uncovered on the outside of each egg.
When the shine on the cobblestone is gone, apply one coat of the following colors to the eggs with the script liner brush: 1. Egg 1: SC101 over the whole thing, Stripes of SC102. 2. Egg 2: SC102 over the whole thing, dots of SC103. 3. Egg 3: SC103 over the whole thing, zigzags of SC101.
Using the back of a brush or pencil eraser, make dots from the Stroke & Coat colors in groupings of 5 to create flowers.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN009 Black, apply 2 coats to the tile. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Once the tile has lost its shine, place the pattern over the top.
Very lightly trace the pattern with a pencil and remove from the tile.
Using the Detail Liner with AC302 Wax Resist, apply 1 coat over the lines.
Replace the glaze caps with AC224 Plastic Detailer Caps.
Fill in each section with a single layer of color. SC100 for the gills, SC102 for the stem, SC101 for the dots and ground, SC103 for the main cap, SC104 for the background
As soon as all sections are filled in, use a hair dryer to force dry the skin of the glaze. Make sure not to put the hair dryer too close while it is wet, or it will move the glaze. Dry until you see cracking in the skin.
Wipe bisque tile with a damp sponge to remove dust.
Using the ruler, split the tile into three equal 2”x6” sections.
Apply three coats of FN037 to the top section using a fan brush, allowing the glaze to dry between coats.
Apply three coats of FN048 to the middle section using a fan brush, allowing the glaze to dry between coats.
Apply three coats of FN018 to the bottom section using a fan brush, allowing the glaze to dry between coats.
Once all three sections are dry, lay the clay carbon paper down over the tile with the “Neon” word pattern over the top and trace with a pencil.
Remove the carbon paper and pattern.
Trace over the “Neon” words with the detail liner brush and wax resist.
Once the wax resist has dried, cover the whole tile with one layer of EL120 coming right up next to the wax lines.
After the first layer has dried add a second layer of EL120, but back away from the lines about a quarter inch.
When the second layer has dried, add the third layer by backing off another quarter inch. These stepped layers will create a haze effect around the neon letters.
Allow to dry.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
VARIATIONS AND ADAPTATIONS: The harder you press with the detail liner brush and wax resist, the wider your line will be for the neon color to show through. Use the detail liner brush with a bit of water to wipe off any glaze that gets on top of the wax lines.
Begin with a properly-fired cone 04 bisque tile. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Cut out the butterflies from the pattern. You can also stamp paper using the paper stamps if you would like to use a different shape. Set aside.
Squeeze out around 1 TBS of SC-6 Sunkissed onto the palette.
Take the edges of the bubble wrap and pull them up together so that you have a ball of bubble wrap between your thumb and index finger. There should be a flat surface of bubbles on the bottom of your ball.
Dip the bottom of your bubble wrap ball into SC-6 Sunkissed. Stamp the tile until you run out of glaze. Dip the ball back into the glaze and repeat until the tile is covered in a thick, bumpy layer of SC-6 Sunkissed.
Squeeze out around 1 TBS of SC-75 Orange-A-Peel onto the palette.
Take the same bubble wrap ball and dip it into SC-75 Orange-A-Peel. Stamp over the tile. Only stamp around 50% of the tile, so that you don’t cover up the previous color.
Place your butterflies (or other stamped shape) onto the wet glaze. Press with a paper towel. Remove the paper towel.
Squeeze around 1 TBS of SC-10 Teal Next Time onto the palette
Take the same bubble wrap ball and dip it into SC-10 Teal Next Time. Stamp the tile until you run out of glaze. Repeat until the tile is covered in a thick, bumpy layer of SC-10 Teal Next Time.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN001 White, apply 1 coat to the body of the rooster (area that will remain white). If you do not do this, it will not look bright white.
Take the pencil and draw a jagged line going around the bottom of the rooster’s neck.
Using the Script Liner with SC016 Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC075 Orange-A-Peel, apply 3 coats to the beak. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC074 Hot Tamale, apply 3 coats to the comb and waddles. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil to draw a pupil at the top of the eyes.
Using the Detail Liner with SC015 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to each pupil. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC016 Cotton Tail, apply 1 dot to each pupil.
Using the Script Liner with SC060 Silver Lining, apply 3 coats to the center section on each wing. Apply 3 coats to the center section of the tail. Skip 2 sections and glaze the 3rd section down from the top on both sides of the tail. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out ½ Tbsp of SC035 Gray Hare and ½ Tbsp of SC060 Silver Lining onto the palette. Mix them to create a new color.
Using the Script Liner with the new color, apply 3 coats to the section right next to the previously glazed sections on the wings and tail. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC035 Gray Hare, apply 3 coats to the remaining sections of the wings and tail. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC015 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the head and neck of the rooster (area above the neck line). Apply 2 coats to the upper section of each wing. Apply 2 coats to the underside of the tail. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out around 1 tsp SC015 Tuxedo onto the palette. Dip the pencil eraser in the glaze and stamp onto white portion of the body. Repeat until the body is covered in dots.
Using the Detail Liner with SC015 Tuxedo, outline the details on the rooster.
Dip into NT-CLR Clear One Dipping.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Ethyl Hen:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN001 White, apply 1 coat to the head, neck, and body of the hen (area that will remain white). If you do not do this, it will not look bright white.
Using the Script Liner with SC016 Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC075 Orange-A-Peel, apply 3 coats to the beak. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC074 Hot Tamale, apply 3 coats to the comb and waddles. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil to draw a pupil at the top of the eyes.
Using the Detail Liner with SC015 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to each pupil. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC016 Cotton Tail, apply 1 dot to each pupil.
Using the Script Liner with SC060 Silver Lining, apply 3 coats to the center section on each wing. Apply 3 coats to the center section of the tail. Skip 2 sections and glaze the 3rd section down from the top on both sides of the tail. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out ½ Tbsp of SC035 Gray Hare and ½ Tbsp of SC060 Silver Lining onto the palette. Mix them to create a new color.
Using the Script Liner with the new color, apply 3 coats to the section right next to the previously glazed sections on the wings and tail. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC035 Gray Hare, apply 3 coats to the remaining sections of the wings and tail. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC015 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the upper section of each wing. Apply 2 coats to the underside of the tail. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out around 1 tsp SC015 Tuxedo onto the palette. Dip the pencil eraser in the glaze and stamp onto white portion of the body. Repeat until the body is covered in dots.
Using the Detail Liner with SC015 Tuxedo, outline the details on the hen.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the pencil to draw a jagged line going around the base of the neck. This will separate the top and bottom colors on the chick.
Using the Soft Fan with EL128 Wheat, apply 3 coats to the bottom half of the chick. Make random, irregular strokes around the neckline, so that there won’t be a distinct border between the top and bottom.
Using the Soft Fan with EL101 Oyster Shell, apply 3 coats to the top half of the chick. Overlap the glaze on the bottom half by around ½ inch. Make random, irregular strokes around the neckline, so that there won’t be a distinct border between the top and bottom.
Use an X-ACTO knife or damp sponge to remove any glaze from the eyes and beak.
Using the Script Liner with SC016 Cotton Tail, apply 3 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with EL143 Cactus Flower, apply 3 coats to the beak. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil to draw pupils in the eyes. Using the Detail Liner with SC015 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the pupils. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Use the Detail Liner with SC016 Cotton Tail to apply a dot to each pupil.
Cut out a small square of cardboard. Around ¾” on each side. You will be using the side with only straight lines (not the corrugated side).
Pour out around 1 TBS of EL101 Oyster Shell, EL128 Wheat, PC601 Clear Cascades, and PC602 White Cascades onto the palette.
Take your piece of cardboard and dip one of the edges with straight lines into PC602 White Cascades. Stamp around the neck of the chick, where the 2 glazes overlap. Continue dipping and stamping until you go completely around the neck.
Repeat Step #11 with EL128 Wheat. Make sure to stamp over some of the glaze from Step #11.
Repeat Step #11 with EL101 Oyster Shell. Make sure to stamp over some of the glaze from Step #11 and Step #12.
Repeat Step #11 with PC601 Clear Cascades. Make sure to stamp over some of the glaze from Step #11, #12, and #13.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN002 Yellow, apply 3 coats to the body of the chick (avoid the eyes and beak). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC016 Cotton Tail, apply 3 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC075 Orange-A-Peel, apply 3 coats to the beak. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC015 Tuxedo, make a large dot in the center of each eye.
After glaze is dry to the touch, take the pencil, and make a scalloped line going around the neck of the chick. Using the Detail Liner with AC302 Wax Resist, apply a coat of wax to the line.
Using the Soft Fan with SG202 White Cobblestone, apply 3 even coats to the body of the chick (area below the scalloped border). Apply each coat as soon as the shine is gone. Do not wait until the glaze is completely dry, or it will start to crack and could flake off.
Using #4 soft fan brush (RB144) apply 3 coats of SW511 Pink Gloss to inside of mug, outside top and bottom rim and handle.
Using #4 soft fan brush (RB144) apply 2 coats of SW501 White Gloss to outside message part of mug.
Using #4 soft fan brush (RB144) and apply 3 coats of SW504 Red Gloss to outside of mug.
Apply heart shaped sticker to center of mug.
On a separate plate, pour desired amount (approximately the size of a quarter) of the following Stroke and Coat colors:
SC003 Wine About It
SC017 Cheeky Pink
SC018 Rosey Posey
SC073 Candy Apple Red
SC074 Hot Tamale
SC085 Orkid
SC013 Grapel
SW511 Pink Gloss
SW504 Red Gloss
Using the end of a toothpick, pencil or paintbrush apply random Stroke and Coat color dots all the way around the outside of the heart, creating a dot pattern.
Remove heart sticker before dots dry completely.
With a #0 Detail Liner brush (CB200) write the word “LOVE” in the middle of the heart using SW504 Red Gloss.
On the inside rim of the mug, using a #4 (CB404) Pointed Round brush, write “BE MINE” using SW504 Red Gloss.
Using #8 Soft Fan Brush (CB618) glaze ½ bowl and entire rim of bowl in a swirl pattern with Jungle Gems CG1006 Purple Reign.
Using #8 Soft Fan Brush (CB618) glaze second ½ of the bowl in SW106 Alabaster.
With a #8 Pointed Round Brush (CB408) glaze 3 horizontal lines, about 2” apart, of Stroke and Coat SC33 Fruit of the Vine over the SW106 Alabaster. Apply 3 coats of Fruit of the Vine.
Once dry, use a #2 Soft Fan brush (CB602) apply “plops” of SW401 Light Flux around the rim of the bowl.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 1 coat to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry.
Place the pattern over the plate. Slide AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern. Trace over the hearts. Remove the pattern and clay carbon paper.
Using the Script Liner with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, SC-33 Fruit of the Vine, SC-74 Hot Tamale, SC-103 Lavendear, SP-201 Speckled Pink-A-Boo, and SP-274 Speckled Hot Tamale, apply 3 coats to half of the hearts on the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Once the hearts are no longer shiny, take the skewer and carve designs into each heart. This must be done before the glaze is dry. This is why it is recommended to work on half at a time.
Repeat Steps #4 and #5 for the remaining hearts.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-74 Hot Tamale, apply 3 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Wait for the front of the plate to be completely dry. Use a dry sponge or firm brush to brush away all of the glaze crumbs on the front of the plate.
Dip into NR-CLR Clear One Dipping.
1Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Coupe Salad Plate (black background):
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 1 coat to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry.
Place the pattern over the plate. Slide AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern. Trace over the hearts. Remove the pattern and clay carbon paper.
Using the Script Liner with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, SC-33 Fruit of the Vine, SC-74 Hot Tamale, SC-103 Lavendear, apply 3 coats to the hearts on the plate. Go slightly over the outline of each heart. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Cut out the hearts from the pattern. Take 1 heart and sponge the back with water. Place it on the corresponding heart on the plate (wet side down). Sponge over the edges to make sure it is secure. Using the Script Liner with the corresponding heart color, apply 1 coat going around the edge of the heart. Repeat for all hearts.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 2 coats to the front and back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the skewer to help pull up the paper hearts on the front of the plate.
Once the hearts are no longer shiny, take the skewer and carve designs into each heart. This must be done before the glaze is dry. Do not try to brush away the crumbs at this point, or they may get stuck to the background.
Wait for the front of the plate to be completely dry. Use a dry sponge or firm brush to brush away all of the glaze crumbs on the front of the plate.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze out around 1 Tbsp of SC001 Pink-A-Boo onto the palette. Dip the sponge into the glaze and sponge the front of the plate. Repeat until the front of the plate is covered. Allow glaze to dry.
Place the pattern over the plate. Slide AC230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern. Trace over the rectangles and hearts. Remove the pattern and clay carbon paper.
Take MC001 6mm Low Tack Masking Tape and tape around the rectangles. This will give you crisp lines.
Squeeze out 1 Tbsp of SP201 Speckled Pink-A-Boo and SP274 Speckled Hot Tamale onto the palette. Make a third color by mixing ½ Tbsp of SP201 Speckled Pink-A-Boo and ½ Tbsp of SP274 Speckled Hot Tamale.
Using the Script Liner with SP201 Speckled Pink-A-Boo, apply 3 coats to the heart on the left side of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SP274 Speckled Hot Tamale, apply 3 coats to the 2 hearts on the right side of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with the mixed color, apply 3 coats to the heart in the center. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out 1 Tbsp of SC035 Gray Hare and SC060 Silver Lining onto the palette. Make a third color my mixing ½ Tbsp of SC035 Gray Hare and ½ Tbsp of SC060 Silver Lining.
Using the Script Liner with SC035 Gray Hare, apply 3 coats to the background of the heart on the left side of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC060 Silver Lining, apply 3 coats to the background of the 2 hearts on the right side of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with the mixed color, apply 3 coats to the background of the heart in the center. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Remove the tape before the glaze is completely dry.
Using the Detail Liner with SC015 Tuxedo, outline the hearts. Use the Soft Fan to apply 2 coats to the back of the plate.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Cut out the circle divider, so that it fits in the center of the plate. Use the pencil to make a dot above each “12” on the circle divider (onto the rim of the plate). Remove the circle divider. Make 3 more dots between each set of dots from the circle divider. Try to evenly space them.
Use a ruler to draw a straight line going through each set of dots that are directly across from each other. Draw the straight line on the rim of the plate only.
Squeeze out 1 TBS of SC001 Pink-A-Boo, SC055 Yella Bout It, and SC103 Lavendear onto the palette.
Dip the pencil eraser into SC-1 Pink-A-Boo. Stamp a dot of glaze onto one of the lines, right next to the inner rim of the plate. Stamp a dot onto every 3rd line.
Repeat Step #5 with SC055 Yella Bout It. Stamp the line next to the previous dots.
Repeat Step #5 with SC103 Lavendear. Stamp the remaining lines.
Repeat Step #5-7 for the middle and outer dots. Make sure you do not stamp the same color next to itself.
Dip into NR-CLR Clear One Dipping.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Coupe Salad Plate:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place the pattern over the plate. Slide AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern. Trace with a pencil.
Using the Script Liner with SC001 Pink-A-Boo, SC055 Yella Bout It, and SC103 Lavendear, apply 3 coats to each of the hearts. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Allow glaze to dry to the touch.
Place the pattern back over the hearts. You can also cut out each heart, if that is easier. Lightly trace over the lettering with a pencil. You should be able to see a faint line in the glaze. Do not press too hard.
Allow hearts to dry completely.
Using SG403 Red, go over the lettering on the hearts.
Check the bisque ware over for any blemishes. If any are present gently sand with 100-grit Sandpaper.
Damp sponge ware to remove any fired dust and to condition the piece for decorating.
Place one ounce of Baby Blue in one of the paper cups and a similar amount of Sand in another paper cup. Add a few drops of water, if needed and mix with Palette Knife. The Fundamentals need to be a cream like consistency.
To the stem and under side of the Mushroom, apply three smooth coats of the Sand using the #8 Soft Fan. Bring up to the curved outer edge of the mushroom’s cap. Allow to set between coats.
To the cap of the Mushroom, apply three coats of Baby Blue with the #8 Soft Fan. Bring the Baby Blue downward overlapping in a feathered manner over the Sand. Allow to set between coats.
For best result allow to dry thoroughly.
Cut the butterfly pattern apart to easily trace on the butterflies.
Randomly apply the butterflies onto the mushroom cap over the Baby Blue, using the provided patterns, clay carbon and red pen.
Using the leaf pattern as a guide, sketch in the vine like leaf design over the stem and in between the traced butterflies using the #2 Pencil.
As needed place the EZ-Strokes on the page protector palette and if color is extremely thick, thin with water or Thin ‘n Shade. Mix with Palette Knife.
The butterflies are completed with Light Blue, Blue Turquoise, Dutch Blue, Midnight Blue and Cobalt Jet Black using the #4 or #6 Round and #2 Detail Liner.
Using the Round of choice fully load with Light Blue, side load with Blue Turquoise and on the same side pull the brush through the Dutch Blue. Blend on clean area of palette. Working from the outer edge of wings to the body, tip, press and lift the blue tones over the wings. The narrower wings will need two strokes and the wider wings three to four strokes. Reload the Round as needed in the same manner each time. Note: keep the darker Dutch Blue tone to upper and outer edges of the wings. Also, as color is applied go back and blend and smooth out any ridges of color. Wings should appear soft and blended.
Fully load the #2 Detail Liner with slightly thinned Midnight Blue. Hold the Liner straight up, outline the wings with flowing Liner work. Pull in some shading lines over wings, from the body out and from the narrow tips of the wings inward. These lines should be very fine and of varying lengths pulled from one point.
Fully load the #2 Detail Liner with thinned Cobalt Jet Black and press, pull and lift the bodies in place. Work from the neck to tapered tail. Tip and press the butterflies’ heads in place with a teardrop stroke. Tip of brush is placed on the neck and the stroke is pressed in place. Holding the brush straight up, pull out a few fine detail lines to the wings, pull out two feelers from the head and add legs to the butterflies.
There are dots on the wings in White, these are added later.
The leaves are a pressure stroke using Irish Green, Leaf Green, Ivy Green and detailed with Royal Blue Green.
Fully load the #4 or #6-Pointed Round with Irish Green, side load with Leaf Green and tip in Ivy Green. Working from the base of leaf outward, press firmly, pull and lift off to create the leaf in one stroke. Note the more pressure on the brush as the stroke is started will generate a larger leaf.
All the leaves are completed in the same manner, however smaller leaves have less pressure applied to the brush. Reload as needed.
To the Ivy Green add a few drops of Royal Blue Green, thus making a slightly darker shade of green.
With the #2 Liner fully loaded in Ivy Green and side loaded in Royal Blue Green mix, pull in the flowing vine stem work. Proceed to outline the leaves in stylized flowing strokes and add a center vein to each.
Using the Pure White French Dimension, press in small descending dots along the outer edge of the butterflies’ wings. To achieve uniform dots, hold the French Dimension bottle at a 45-degree angle to the ware and be sure the nip touches the ware.
Fire the piece to shelf cone 04. Thus, setting the color and maturing the French Dimension.
Damp sponge the fired ware to condition the piece for glazing.
With #8 Soft Fan apply three flowing coats of Crystal Clear Brushing to entire piece.
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.
Remove stilt marks with Stilt Stone or Dremel Tool.
Check the vase over for any blemishes. If present, lightly sand to remove using the 100-grit sandpaper.
Damp sponge the ware down to remove any fired dust and to condition the piece for decorating. To condition and clean the inside of vase pour a small amount of water into the vase. Quickly swirl the water around and pour out any remaining water.
Place approximately one ounce of Blue Green in the paper cup. If needed add water or Thin ‘n Shade to thin to a cream like consistency.
With a water dampened #8 Soft Fan, apply three coats of Blue Green to the entire outside of vase and to the inside lip. For the inside apply color about 2’’ inside the neck. Allow to dry between coats.
Set aside to dry thoroughly.
Using the provided pattern as a guide, lightly sketch the flowers and leaf pattern over the ware with a standard pencil. If you feel more comfortable with a traced pattern, use White Saral instead of Clay Carbon. Clay Carbon will not show up on such a dark base color. Cover the entire outside of vase with the design. (See the photograph for placement)
The design work is completed using Pure White French Dimensions. Some tips, when using are as follows:
Thoroughly shake and squeeze the bottle.
Use the product at room temperature.
Squeeze a small amount out onto a paper towel to ensure the right consistency is flowing from the nip.
If color does not leave the bottle easily, the French Dimension may need some stirring. Use a wooden skewer to stir the product deep inside the bottle.
To apply the French Dimension, hold the bottle at a 45-degree angle and gently apply pressure to the bottle with thumb and index finger.
The nip should touch the ware as the color is applied.
The angle is very important when adding the dots. If dots are applied with the bottle at 90-degrees to the surface, they will be more pointed and sharp.
Periodically wipe the nip to remove any unwanted color that will accumulate on the outer edge of the nip.
Work on one area at a time, allow that area to dry before moving on around the vase. It is very easy to smear the wet French Dimension.
Outline flower petals first, then pull in the leaves with a center vein. (Complete 3 or 4 flowers then allow to dry.)
After the petals and leaves are applied, add the tiny dots for the center of the flowers.
Throughout the background add dots in groups of three.
Add tiny dots around the top edge of the fluted vase.
Fire ware to a shelf cone 04. Note ware does not need to be stilted since Fundamentals will not stick to the shelf when fired.
Damp sponge ware after firing to remove any fired dust and to condition the piece for glazing.
Pour a small amount of Crystal Clear Brushing in to a paper cup and thin with water to a light cream consistency. Roll the inside of the vase and drain off excess. Wipe back any drips or runs from the outside of ware.
Apply 3 coats of the Crystal Clear Brushing to the outside of vase with the #8 Soft Fan. Glaze needs to dry between coats.
Stilt ware and fire to shelf cone 06.
Remove stilt marks with Dremel Tool or Stilt Stone.
Form
MB885 Great Shape Vases
Colors
UG230 Blue Green
FD258 Pure White
S2101 Crystal Clear Brushing
Decorating Accessories
CB618 #8 Soft Fan
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sponge
Water
100-grit Sandpaper
2 3-oz paper cups
Paper Towels
Standard Pencil
Water Bowl
White Saral (if pattern need to traced on instead of sketched on)
Check the vase over for any blemishes. If present, lightly sand to remove using the 100-grit sand paper.
Damp sponge the ware down to remove any fired dust and to condition the piece for decorating. To condition and clean the inside of vase pour a small amount of water into the vase. Quickly swirl the water around and pour out any remaining water.
Place the weighting material inside of the vase.
Place the ware onto the banding wheel and make sure the ware is centered. If the ware is not centered properly it will have skips of color as the piece is banded.
Place the EZ Strokes on the page protector palette and thin with water or Thin ‘n Shade to a very light cream consistency.
With the #4 Soft Fan loaded with Neon Yellow and rapidly turning the banding wheel, apply the color to the inside rim, the top and about inch down the outside of vase. Do not wash the brush.
Pick up Yellow Orange and over lapping about a ¼” of the Neon Yellow band another inch or so down the vase. Do not wash the brush.
Pick up Poppy Orange, proceed to band another inch down the vase. Remember to overlap the 1/4” of the previous color. Do not wash the brush.
Pick up Coral Red, proceed to band another inch down the vase again over lapping the previous applied color.
Finally pick up the Passion Red and band this color to the bottom of the ware. Now wash the Fan Brush and remove excess water.
Repeat steps 6 through 10 again making sure that the coloration blends from the lighter yellow at the top of the vase downward to the deeper tone of the Passion Red.
Allow to dry thoroughly before proceeding.
Trace the provided pattern onto a piece of tissue paper with the standard pencil.
Align the pattern on the vase. With the water-based marker trace over the penciled design on the tissue paper. The marker will bleed through the tissue paper.
Thin Cobalt Jet Black slightly with a few drops of water or Thin ‘n Shade
With the #4 Pointed Round, block in the traced design with two thin coats of the Cobalt Jet Black. The Cobalt Jet Black is also applied to the bottom of the vase.
Load #2 Liner with Cobalt Jet Black and smooth out the outline of the Egret, add grasses and black detailing to the Egret.
Fire ware to a shelf cone 04. Note ware does not need to be stilted since EZ Strokes will not stick to the shelf when fired.
Damp sponge ware after firing to remove any fired dust and to condition the piece for glazing.
Pour a small amount of Crystal Clear Brushing in to a paper cup and thin with water to a light cream consistency. Roll the inside of the vase and drain off excess. Wipe back any drips or runs from the outside of ware.
Apply 3 coats of the Crystal Clear Brushing to the outside of vase with the #8 Soft Fan. Glaze needs to dry between coats.
Stilt ware and fire to shelf cone 06.
Remove stilt marks with Dremel Tool or Stilt Stone.
Form
MB885 Great Shape Vase
Colors
EZ012 Cobalt Jet Black
EZ026 Yellow Orange
EZ057 Coral Red
EZ058 Poppy Orange
EZ075 Passion Red
EZ101 Neon Yellow
S2101 Crystal Clear Brushing
Decorating Accessories
CB202 #2 Detail Liner
CB404 #4 Pointed Round
CB604 #4 Soft Fan
CB608 #8 Soft Fan
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sponge
Water
100-grit Sandpaper
1 3 oz Paper Cup
Quality Banding Wheel
Tissue Paper
Ultra fine water-based marker
Standard Pencil
2 cups rice or beans or sand to weight the vase while banding
Apply 3 coats of SW 501 White Gloss to entire bowl avoiding the bottom foot. Let dry.
Place all E-Z Stroke colors on palette and thin to a light creamy consistency.
Dampen sea wool sponge with water and squeeze out into a paper towel.
Load sponge with Poppy Orange and begin to sponge in a lacy pattern irregular circles being careful not to fill in the center. You can let some go inside of bowl and on the bottom. Make circles as large or small as you want.
Do not wash sponge and load with Passion Red and apply over the Poppy Orange making sure not to cover all of the Poppy Orange.
Load Script Liner with Black E-Z Stroke and create petal outlines and add radial lines from center out onto the petals.
Sponge in centers first with Yellow Orange and shade with Brick E-Z Stroke.
Detail center with Black and the script Liner
Sponge in leaf shapes with Chartreuse and then add Leaf green to leaves for accent.
Detail leaves with Script Liner and Black.
Add accents for stems to connect design and tendrils with the Liner and Black.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
This tree comes with a wiring hook up and multicolored Medium Twist plastic lights.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of El-131 Turtle Shell to the tree and the base. Allow to dry between coats.
Using a CB-404 #4-Pointed Round and a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, apply 2 coats of SG-302 Snowfall to all the tips and liners rising up from the tips. Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to cone 06-05.
Using an OB-901 Mother of Pearl Brush, apply 1 thin brushed out coat of OG803 Mother of Pearl to the tree and the base. The thinner and more swirls as you apply the better result you will have.
Clean your brush with OA901 Essence. This bottle should be kept just for the Mother of Pearl.
Stilt and fire to cone 020.
Glue the lights into the tree and put the pinch plug wiring into the base.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
In a small cup, thin some FN004 Red to the consistency of coffee cream. Pour the glaze slowly; roll the glaze around inside the vase pouring out the excess. Leave the vase upside down to fully drain. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 4 coats of FN301 Marshmallow White to the outside of the vase. Allow to dry!
Trace the pattern onto the piece using AC230 Clay Carbon Paper and a pencil.
Place some of each of the following EZ Stroke colors onto a palette, EZ011 Sienna Brown, EZ038 Medium Mahogany, EZ030 Rose and EZ075 Passion Red.
Using a CB308 #8 Flat Shader, pick up some EZ011 Sienna Brown on the chisel edge of the brush and stipple the color onto the bear’s body. Repeat this step using EZ038 Medium Mahogany lightly over top of the EZ011 Sienna Brown.
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner, apply EZ-030 Rose to the nose, inside of the ears and pads of the feet.
Using a CB310 #10 Flat Shader, shade the heart with EZ075 Passion Red. Using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, detail the heart with EZ075 Passion Red.
Using a CB110 #10/0 Liner outline and detail the bear with EZ012 Cobalt Jet Black.
Center the vase on a banding wheel and band the top portion of the vase with EZ075 Passion Red. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
In a small cup, thin some FN005 Pink to the consistency of coffee cream. Pour the glaze slowly; roll the glaze around inside the vase pouring out the excess. Leave the vase upside down to fully drain. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN-001 White to the outside of the vase. Allow to dry!
Trace the pattern onto the piece using AC230 Clay Carbon Paper and a pencil.
Place some EZ075 Passion Red onto a palette. Using a AB710 #/4 Flat Shader, pick up some water on the brush, touch the brush to a paper towel to remove the excess water. Load on side of the brush with EZ075 Passion Red then shade around the heart shape, when dry, repeat.
Place out the following colors, EZ057 Coral Red, EZ030 Rose and EZ057 Passion Red, EZ033 Ivy Green and EZ003 Irish Green onto a palette.
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 2 coats of EZ002 Cinderella Pink to the top rose on the left of the heart, EZ075 Passion Red to the middle rose and EZ030 Rose to the lower rose and the rose on the top right.
Using a CB202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 2 coats of EZ003 Irish Green to all the leaves.
Using a CB408 #8 Flat Shader, shade all the leaves with EZ033 Ivy Green.
Place some EZ012 Cobalt Black onto a palette.
Using a CB110 #10/0 Liner, outline and detail the design with EZ012 Cobalt Black.
Using the FD254 Black Licorice French Dimensions to the word Love. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
In a small cup, thin some FN005 Pink to the consistency of coffee cream. Pour the glaze slowly; roll the glaze around inside the vase pouring out the excess. Leave the vase upside down to fully drain. Allow to dry!
Using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN005 Pink to the outside of the vase. Allow to dry!
Cut out 3 of each size hearts. Place the hearts on the vase using a CB604 #4 Soft Fan and water. Press over the hearts with a paper towel.
Place some EZ075 Passion Red and EZ030 Rose onto a palette.
Center the vase on a banding wheel upside down.
Using a DB805 #3 Fan, slightly thin some EZ075 Pashion Red, band this color on the bottom section of the vase coming up slightly over the bump out of the vase. Turn the vase right side up when done and recenter it on the banding wheel.
Band the top section of the vase with EZ030 Rose blending the color into the EZ075 Passion Red to create a hombre look.
Peel off the paper hearts before the vase completely dries. Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to cone 06/05.
Using a OB901 Mother of Pearl ¼” Shader, apply 1 thin coat of OG803 Mother of Pearl to each of the hearts. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten the sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with SC102 Just Peachy, apply 3 coats to the entire lantern. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using a pencil, lightly sketch some leaves and vines, clusters or single circles for flowers on the leaves, and large circles for the background.
Using the Script Liner with SC27 Sour Apple, apply 2 coats to the large circles around the top of the lantern. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC76 Cara-Bein Blue, apply 2 coats to the leaves around the top of the lantern. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC16 Cotton Tail, make random clusters of small circles over the large circles and leaves. Apply 2 coats. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out around 1 tsp of SC15 Tuxedo onto the palette. Dip the pencil eraser in the glaze. Stamp the center of the white circles. Repeat until all white circles have a black center.
Using the Script Liner with SC27 Sour Apple, apply 2 coats to the bottom rim, closest to the lattice. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC76 Cara-Bein Blue, apply 2 coats to the bottom rim. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use FD258 Pure White to outline the white circles at the top of the lattice. Make dots down the center of each lattice.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the 1 inch flat brush, paint 3 coats of Cotton Tail on the mushroom top covering the top and theunder side of the top.
Using the 1 inch flat brush, paint 3 coats of Sunkissed on the stem of the mushroom.
Once the top has dried, use a pencil to trace the flower onto the tissue paper.
Position the tissue paper flower on the mushroom and trace with a washable marker. The marker should soak through the tissue paper and leave an outline of the flower on your mushroom top.
Using the round brush, paint (dab) 2 coats of Day Lily on the petals. Letting the first coat dry before adding the 2nd coat. Leave the center of the flower unpainted.
Using the round brush, paint 2 coats of Tuxedo on the middle of the flower.
Using the liner brush and Tuxedo Stroke and coat, paint a loose outline around the petals.
Using the liner brush, dab dots of Cotton Tail in the center of the flower.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Draw out your shapes on the top of the mushroom, no wrong or right shapes, but make sure you have ample space between shapes on because you will be painting with the jungle gems and they can run a bit! Make sure you have 8 shapes/sections to paint. Start with a shape on the tip/top of the mushroom then continue with the rest!
Draw out the funky shapes on the stem of the mushroom – both are open to your creativity. Start towards the bottom of the stem and just build around it!
Number or label your sections with a letter or number to correspond to each Jungle Gem color you’re using. Paint 2-3 coats of each glaze in a shape.
Once that is dry, you can paint the underneath of the mushroom a Stroke & Coat if you would like – sample was left white to match the top.
When painting the stem, numbering what colors you want to go where is suggested. Paint 2-3 coats of each color – start with the section closest to the bottom and work to the top. Use any colors you want. The colors in the sample match the colors in the Jungle Gems.
Clear glaze the top of the shroom if you left some white/bisque.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with FN018 Bright Blue, apply 3 coats to the top and bottom of the mug and bowl. The areas above and below the mosaic design. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using SG404 Blue, outline the upper and lower row of circles.
Using SG410 Bright Blue, outline the diamonds in the center of the upper and lower circles.
Using SG407 Yellow, make stars in the center of each diamond. Make a line of dots in the section around each diamond.
Using the Soft Fan with FN002 Yellow, apply 3 coats to the inside of the mug and bowl. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN211 Sheer Blue, apply 3 coats to the outside of the mug and bowl. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Form
MB1614 Mosaic Bowl
MB1617 Mosaic Mug
Colors
FN002 Yellow
FN018 Bright Blue
FN211 Sheer Blue
SG404 Blue
SG407 Yellow
SG410 Bright Blue
Decorating Accessories
RB144 #4 Soft Fan
RB106 #6 Script Liner
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sponge
Water
Low-Fire|Earthenware Bisque|Table Top
406|403|461
47552
Foundations and Designer Liner Chevron Mug and Bowl
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with FN007 Green, apply 3 coats to the top and bottom of the mug and bowl. The areas above and below the chevron design. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using SG405 Green, outline the top, middle, and bottom horizontal lines.
Using SG409 Bright Green, outline the remaining 2 horizontal lines.
Using SG405 Green, SG409 Bright Green, and SG407 Yellow, make repeating lines and dots between the horizontal lines.
Using the Soft Fan with FN002 Yellow, apply 3 coats to the inside of the mug and bowl. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN216 Sea Glass, apply 3 coats to the outside of the mug and bowl. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Form
MB1615 Chevron Bowl
MB1618 Chevron Mug
Colors
FN002 Yellow
FN007 Green
FN216 Sea Glass
SG405 Green
SG407 Yellow
SG409 Bright Green
Decorating Accessories
RB144 #4 Soft Fan
RB106 #6 Script Liner
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sponge
Water
Low-Fire|Earthenware Bisque|Table Top
406|403|461
47554
Foundations and Designer Liner Scalloped Mug and Bowl
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with FN003 Orange, apply 3 coats to the top and bottom of the mug and bowl. The areas above and below the scalloped design. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using SG407 Yellow, outline the top of each upper arch. Make vertical lines going across each arch.
Using SG408 Orange, outline the top of each center arch. Make dots going down the center of each arch.
Using SG403 Red, outline the top of each bottom arch. Make 3 decorative lines going down to the bottom point of each arch.
Using the Soft Fan with FN002 Yellow, apply 3 coats to the inside of the mug and bowl. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN203 Dry Champagne, apply 3 coats to the outside of the mug and bowl. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Print 2 copies of the pattern. Cut both ornament patterns out, cutting on the outside edge of the line.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 1 coat of FN-001 White to the center area of the tree where the ornament pattern will go. Allow to dry.
Apply 1 of each ornament to the tree on the FN-001 White area using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan and water. After placing the ornament on the tree, press with a paper towel to make sure the paper is stuck to the tree.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN-053 Mint to the tree except not on the branches that are flipped up.
After the 3 coats of the FN-053 Mint have been applied, remove the paper pattern. Allow to dry.
Using the second set of ornament patterns, trace on the ornament patterns and the holly boughs using the AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper, Also if you are painting the Merry Christmas on the other side you can trace this now.
Using a CB-202 #2 Detail Brush, apply 3 coats of SC-74 Hot Tamale to the long ornament on the left, the 3 sections of the center ornament and the bows on the top of the ornaments and the ornament hooks.
Using a CB-202 #2 Detail Brush, apply 3 coats of SC-26 Green Thumb to the 2 remaining stripes on the center ornament. Using a CB-106#6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC-26 Green Thumb to the ornament on the right.
Using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, apply 2-3 coats of SC-74 Hot Tamale to the Merry Christmas and to the bows.
Using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, apply 2 coats of SC-14 Java Bean to the stems of the pine boughs. Stroke in the pine needles using the CB-110 #10/0 Liner with SC-26 Green Thumb and SC-8 Just Froggy. Allow to dry.
Using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, outline the ornament pattern with SC-15 Tuxedo, also add the hanging string.
Using a CB-604 #4 Fost Fan and a CB-106 # 6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of CG -1009 Cherry Limeade to the underside of all the branches. Allow to dry.
Using a CB-604 #4 Sot Fan, apply 1-2 coats of SG-302 Snowfall to the top side of the branches and or where you like snow to be. Allow to dry.
Stilt and fire to cone 05-06.
Using an OB-910G #0 Detail brush, apply OG805 Premium Gold to the ornament caps and to the design on the ornament on the right-hand side. Clean your brush in OA901 Essence. Allow to dry.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the pencil to draw a scalloped line going around the neck.
Use scissors to cut out the wing pattern. Place it on one side of the hen and trace around the edges. Flip the pattern and repeat on the other side.
Draw a line on the back side of the hen, along the edge that separates the top and bottom. It should go between the 2 wings.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 3 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil to draw pupils on the eyes. Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the pupils. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, make a dot in each pupil.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 3 coats to the beak. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, apply 3 coats to the comb and waddles. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner and Soft Fan with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 2 coats to the bottom half of the hen (area below the scallops in the front, going towards the back, up to the line in the back). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
After the glaze is dry, place the lace over the glaze from Step #9. Wet the Soft Fan with water and brush over the lace to help it stay in place. Use scissors to cut the lace to help it lay flat over the bottom half of the hen. Trim off any excess lace.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 1 coat over the lace. Allow glaze to dry.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, apply 2 coats over the lace. Allow the glaze to dry between coats. Remove the lace after the last coat loses its shine but is not yet bone dry.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 3 coats to the wings. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SP-211 Speckled Moody Blue, apply 3 coats to the upper half of the hen (area above the scalloped line).
Using the Script Liner with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 3 coats to the back of the hen. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out around 1 tsp of SC-16 Cotton Tail onto the palette. Dip the pencil eraser into the glaze. Stamp dots around the neck and tail of the hen.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the details.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil to draw irises on the eyes. Using the Script Liner with SC-24 Dandelion, apply 2 coats to the irises. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil to draw pupils on the eyes. Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the pupils. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, make a dot in each pupil.
Use the pencil to draw a line of feathers going around the neck of the rooster. Draw flowers, leaves, swirls, and random shapes on the bottom half of the rooster.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 2 coats to the beak. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-74 Hot Tamale, apply 2 coats to the comb and waddles. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, apply 2 coats to the neck. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-11 Blue Yonder, SC-12 Moody Blue, SC-24 Dandelion, SC-27 Sour Apple, SC-33 Fruit of the Vine, SC-74 Hot Tamale, and SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, apply 2 coats to your designs on the bottom half. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Add decorative dots using the eraser of the pencil and any glaze from Step #9.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the details of the eyes, beak, comb, and waddles. Outline the designs on the bottom half and add decorative lines and dots.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Take the blue shop towel and lay it flat. Randomly squirt lines and dots of SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-11 Blue Yonder, SC-27 Sour Apple, and SP-211 Speckled Moody Blue. You should cover around half of the towel. Fold the towel in half and lightly press so that the glaze covers the inside of the towel. Gently open the towel and place over the hen. Press down and remove. Repeat until the hen is covered in glaze.
Use a damp sponge to remove most of the glaze from the eyes, comb, waddles, and beak.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 3 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil to draw irises on the eyes. Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 2 coats to the irises. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil to draw pupils on the eyes. Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the pupils. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, make a dot in each pupil.
Using the Script Liner with SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, apply 3 coats to the beak. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-11 Blue Yonder, apply 3 coats to the waddles. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SP-211 Speckled Moody Blue, apply 3 coats to the comb. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the details.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 3 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil to draw irises on the eyes. Using the Script Liner with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 2 coats to the irises. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil to draw pupils on the eyes. Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the pupils. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, make a dot in the pupil of each eye.
Using the Soft Fan and Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 3 coats to the body of the rooster. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, apply 3 coats to the beak. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-74 Hot Tamale, apply 3 coats to the comb and waddles. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the details of the eyes, beak, comb, and waddles.
Cut the cardboard into a small piece – around 1.5” square. You will be using the edge with straight lines, not the corrugated edge.
Squeeze out around 1 TBS of SC-97 Cant-elope, SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, SC-74 Hot Tamale, SC-27 Sour Apple, SC-11 Blue Yonder, and SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue onto the palette.
Take the cardboard square and dip the straight edge into SC-97 Cant-elope. Press vertically onto the neck of the rooster. Repeat until you go around the neck. Lines should be random, not evenly spaced or angled.
Repeat Step #11 with SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, going further down the rooster.
Repeat Step #11 with SC-74 Hot Tamale, going further down the rooster.
Repeat Step #11 with SC-27 Sour Apple, going further down the rooster.
Repeat Step #11 with SC-11 Blue Yonder, down further down the rooster.
Repeat Step #11 with SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue, going down to the bottom of the rooster.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 3 coats to each eye. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil to draw a pupil in each eye. Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to each pupil. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, make a dot in each pupil.
Using the Script Liner with SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, apply 3 coats to the beak. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-74 Hot Tamale, apply 3 coats to the waddles and comb. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, make a line separating the top and bottom of the beak.
Take the 1” circle punch and punch the paper until you have around 50 circles.
Take a paper circle and trace it onto the hen. Repeat with the same circle, until the hen is covered. Try to evenly space the circles.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-11 Blue Yonder, SC-27 Sour Apple, SC-74 Hot Tamale, and SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, apply 3 coats to each circle. Extend the glaze past the outlines of the circles. Try to avoid having the same color right next to each other. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Take a paper circle and dip it in water. Place it over one of the glazed circles from Step #10. Press down with a damp sponge. Repeat, until all of the circles from Step #10 are covered with paper circles. While the paper is still damp, take the Script Liner and apply a line of glaze going around the edge of the circle. It should be the same color as the glaze beneath the circle.
Allow glaze to dry.
Using the Script Liner and Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats over the entire chicken body. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Before the glaze is bone dry, take the needle tool and lift up each circle. Make sure you remove every circle. You might want to count how many circles you have, so that you can be sure you have removed them all.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze out around 1 Tbsp of SC-5 Tiger Tail, SC-25 Crackerjack Brown, SC-46 Rawhide, and SC-51 Poo Bear onto the palette.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-5 Tiger Tail, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Position the plate so that the handle is going away from you.
While the glaze from Step #3 is still wet, take the Script Liner and make random vertical lines on the front of the plate using the glazes from Step #2. They should be thick lines of glaze, with some overlapping.
Dip the Soft Fan in water and go back and forth vertically over the front of the plate. This will blend the colors together.
Cut around the pattern, so that it will fit on the plate. There is a separate pattern for each plate (small/large). You can also make your own pattern. After the front of the plate is dry to the touch, place the pattern over the top and lightly trace with the pencil. You want to see a faint line in the glaze.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-48 Camel Back, apply 3 coats to the back and edges of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
After the front is completely dry, use SG-401 Black to outline the design on the front of the plate.
Using an AB-710 #3/4 Flat Shader, basecoat the vest and inside the hat area with 1-2 coats of OS455 Holy Red. Allow to dry!
Using an AB-708 #10 Shader, paint vertical stripes on the vest and the hat with OS480 Garnet Red. When dry, paint the horizontal stripes on the vest and the hat. Then paint in the square where the two stripes cross with SS-138 Flat Black.
Using an AB-709 ¾ Angular Shader to shade the crevices and edge of the vest and the inside of the hat with OS480 Garnet Red.
Base coat the outside area of the hat, gloves, and the nose with SS-234 Medium Mocha. Drybrush the hat and the gloves with SS-194 Medium Taupe then highlight with SS192 Light Taupe.
Drybrush the nose with SS-211 Orange Rust then with SS210 Orange then highlight the tip of the nose with SS-135 White.
Using an AB-709 ¾ Angular Shader to shade the crevices and edge of the hat with SS-234 Medium Mocha.
Base coat the cuffs of the gloves with OS480 Garnet Red. Drybrush with SS-OS455 Holy Red then highlight with OS449 Bright Red. Touch up any areas on the body that are white first with OS500 Snowcloud to block out any of the red that got on the body.
Basecoat the Snowman body with SS-135 White. Allow to dry!
Drybrush the cheeks with SS-183 Rich Peach with some SS135 White mixed in the brush to lighten.
Using an AB-709 ¾ Angular Shader to shade the crevices of the snowman body with OS546 Baby Blue.
Paint the center of the buttons with OS455 Holly Red then with SS-81 Shimmering Silver.
Using an AB-701 #0 Detail, paint the eyes with SS-138 Flat Black, highlight with SS-135 White. Paint the mouth area with SS-138 Flat Black.
Using an AB710 #3/4 Flat Shader, apply 2 coats of AC-502 Matte Sealer the snowman.
Using an AB-704 #3 Round, apply 2 coats of AC-501 Gloss Sealer to the eyes and buttons.
DO NOT FIRE!
MB-1607 Clark Snowman
Using an AB710 #3/4 Flat Shader, basecoat the center part of the hat and the gloves with SS-480 Garnet Red.
Using a DB-803 #8 Round, drybrush with OS455 Holly Red then highlight with OS449 Bright Red.
Basecoat the scarf, brim of the hat and top pom pom with SS-57 Accent Green
Drybrush with SS-19 Country Sage then with SS-376 Limeburst. Highlight with SS-135 White.
Basecoat the nose with SS-234 Medium Mocha. Drybrush the nose with SS-211 Orange Rust then with SS-210 Orange then highlight the tip of the nose with SS-135 White.
Touch up any areas on the body that are white first with OS500 Snowcloud to block out any of the red that got on the body.
Basecoat the Snowman body with SS-135 White. Allow to dry!
Drybrush the cheeks with SS-183 Rich Peach with some SS135 White mixed in the brush to lighten.
Using an AB-709 ¾ Angular Shader to shade the crevices of the snowman body with OS546 Baby Blue.
Paint the center of the buttons with OS455 Holly Red then with SS-81 Shimmering Silver.
Using an AB-701 #0 Detail, paint the eyes with SS-138 Flat Black, highlight with SS-135 White. Paint the mouth area with SS-138 Flat Black.
Using an AB710 #3/4 Flat Shader, apply 2 coats of AC-502 Matte Sealer the snowman.
Using an AB-704 #3 Round, apply 2 coats of AC-501 Gloss Sealer to the eyes and buttons.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze out around 1 Tbsp of SC-5 Tiger Tail, SC-25 Crackerjack Brown, SC-46 Rawhide, and SC-51 Poo Bear onto the palette.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-5 Tiger Tail, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Position the plate so that the handle is going away from you.
While the glaze from Step #3 is still wet, take the Script Liner and make random vertical lines on the front of the plate using the glazes from Step #2. They should be thick lines of glaze, with some overlapping.
Dip the Soft Fan in water and go back and forth vertically over the front of the plate. This will blend the colors together.
Cut around the pattern, so that it will fit on the plate. There is a separate pattern for each plate (small/large). You can also make your own pattern. After the front of the plate is dry to the touch, place the pattern over the top and lightly trace with the pencil. You want to see a faint line in the glaze.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-48 Camel Back, apply 3 coats to the back and edges of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
After the front is completely dry, use SG-401 Black to outline the design on the front of the plate.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten the sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-36 Irish Luck, apply 1 coat to the tree and base. Allow glaze to dry.
Take a damp sponge and wipe away most of the glaze, leaving it only in the crevices.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-216 Sea Glass, apply 3 coats to the tree and base. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Take the needle tool and run it in a circular motion around the inside of each light hole on the tree. This will remove any excess glaze that could clog the hole.
Outline all traced lines with the metal tip secured onto the Black Designer Liner.
Using the Round, apply 2 coats of Cotton Tail to the snow area, then side load in The Blues and shade along the top area.
Using the Round, apply 3 coats of Crackerjack Brown to the body of the deer.
Using the Round, apply 3 coats of Tip Taupe to the antlers.
Using the Round, apply 3 coats of Java Bean to the hooves.
Using the Round, apply 3 coats of Ivory Tower to the spots.
Using the Liner, apply 2 coats of each color to lights: Hot Tamale, Dandelion and The Blues.
Using the Round or Liner, apply 2 coats of Cotton Tail to the rear area of the eye, then The Blues to the center area, and 2 coats of Tuxedo to the pupil and to the nose.
Using the Liner, apply 1 slightly thinned coat of Designer Liner Green to the needles on the branches.
Using the Fan, apply 3 coats of Tree Green to the back and rim of the plate.
Using the Fan, apply 1 coat of Clear to the front of the plate.
Using the Fan, apply 1 coat of Peppermint to the front of the plate.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten the sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the pencil to draw 4 wavy lines on the tree. This will separate the tree into 5 sections. Try to space the sections out equally.
Using the Script Liner with SC-78 Lime Light, apply 3 coats to the top and bottom section. Glaze the inside edge of the stars and circles. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 3 coats to the next 2 sections. Glaze the inside edge of the stars and circles. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-26 Green Thumb, apply 3 coats to the center section. Glaze the inside edge of the stars and circles. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-74 Hot Tamale, apply 3 coats to the base of the tree. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-704 Peppermint, apply 1 coat to the outside of the tree.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Large Starlight Tree:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten the sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with SC-78 Lime Light, apply 3 coats to every other section of the tree. Glaze the inside edge of the stars and circles. Allow glaze to dry between coats. ,
Go around the tree and label the remaining sections: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6.
Use MC-001 6mm Low Tack Masking Tape to tape off the odd numbered sections.
Using the Script Liner with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 3 coats to the odd numbered sections. Glaze the inside edge of the stars and circles. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Remove the tape before the glaze is bone dry.
Use MC-001 6mm Low Tack Masking Tape to tape off the even numbered sections.
Using the Script Liner with SC-26 Green Thumb, apply 3 coats to the even numbered sections. Glaze the inside edge of the stars and circles. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Remove the tape before the glaze is bone dry.
Using the Script Liner with SC-74 Hot Tamale, apply 3 coats to the base of the tree. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-704 Peppermint, apply 1 coat to the outside of the tree.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-233 Ruby Red, apply 3 coats to the textured portion of the container. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 3 coats to the bottom the container. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 2 coats going around the rim of the container. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-704 Peppermint, apply 1 coat to the outside of the container. Apply 2 coats to the inside. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Flourish Container:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-26 Green Thumb, apply 1 coat over the textured, flourish border on the top and bottom of the container. Allow glaze to dry.
Using a damp sponge, wipe the textured border until most of the glaze is gone, leaving it only in the crevices. Wiping vertically, away from the center of the container, is best with the flourish pattern.
Use scissors to cut out the pattern and clay carbon paper so that they will both fit around the center of the container. Place the clay carbon paper around the center of the container and tape in place. Place the pattern on top and tape in place. Trace the pattern with the pencil. Remove the pattern and clay carbon paper.
Use the pencil to draw stems and berries coming from the leaves.
Using the Script Liner with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 3 coats to the leaves. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-26 Green Thumb, outline the leaves and stems.
Squeeze out around 1 tsp of SC-74 Hot Tamale onto the palette. Dip the pencil eraser in the glaze and stamp a berry on the container. Repeat until all the berries have been stamped.
Use MC-001 6mm Low Tack Masking Tape to tape off the 4 raised lines going around the container.
Using the Script Liner with SC-74 Hot Tamale, apply 2 coats to each of the 4 raised lines and the bottom of the container. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Remove the tape before the glaze is bone dry.
Using the Soft Fan with NT-BR Clear One Brushing, apply 2 coats to the center section of the container. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-704 Peppermint, apply 2 coats over the flourish sections for the container and the inside. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Cover the floral foam cone in a layer of plastic wrap to keep the clay from sticking to the form.
Begin by rolling out a couple lengths of coils.
Starting at the base of the tree, wrap the coils around the cone form.
Stop wrapping every few inches and score the clay on the coil below and the coil that will be lying on top.
Touch a couple drops of water to the scored areas to help adhere the clay to itself.
Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you reach the top of the cone.
Use your finger to blend any areas where the clay coils connected to make them look like one seamless coil.
A toothpick can be used to press in definition between coils.
Carefully remove the coils from the form and throw away the plastic wrap.
Using a finger (or plastic knife/fettling knife) smoosh and blend together the coils from the inside.
Carefully manipulate the tree to create soft bends so it isn’t straight up and down from the cone form.
Roll small balls of clay to create the bulbs.
Scratch and attach bulbs to the tree.
Using any excess clay, create a star for the top.
Scratch and attach the star.
Allow to fully dry.
Bisque fire to cone 04.
Wipe bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dust.
Using three coats of SC-26 Green Thumb, glaze the main part of the coil tree with the script liner brush, leaving the bulbs and star untouched.
Glaze a variety of bulbs using SC-11 Blue Yonder, SC-73 Candy Apple Red, SC-6 Sunkissed, and SC-16 Cotton Tail with the script liner brush making sure to apply three coats on each.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten the sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the pencil sketch leaves and stems going down and coming up from the bottom on each vase.
Posy Vase
Using the Script Liner alternate SC-6 Sunkissed and SP-206 Speckled Sunkissed on the leaves and stems that are going down. (We also added a few going up in these colors.) Apply two coats, allowing glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner alternate SC-9 Jaded and SP-209 Speckled Jaded to the leaves and stems that are going up. Apply two coats, allowing the glaze to dry in between coats.
Use the Script Liner with SP-211 Speckled Blue Yonder to create dots randomly around the vase. Apply two coats, allowing glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil eraser with SP-201 Speckled Pink-A-Boo to create dots randomly around the vase.
Use the Soft Fan to apply two coats of SP-211 Speckled Blue Yonder inside the neck of the vase.
Dip into NT-CLR Clear Dipping Glaze.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Blossom Vase
Using the Script Liner alternate SC-1 Pink-A-Boo and SP-201 Speckled Pink-A-Boo on the leaves and stems that are going down. Apply two coats, allowing glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner alternate SC-11 Blue Yonder and SP-211 Speckled Blue Yonder to the leaves and stems that are going up. Apply two coats, allowing the glaze to dry in between coats.
Use the Script Liner with SP-227 Sour Apple to create dots randomly around the vase. Apply two coats, allowing glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil eraser with SP-206 Speckled Sunkissed to create dots randomly around the vase.
Use the Soft Fan to apply two coats of SP-206 Speckled Sunkissed inside the neck of the vase.
Dip into NT-CLR Clear Dipping Glaze.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Flora Vase
Using the Script Liner alternate SC-27 Sour Apple and SP-227 Speckled Sour Apple on the leaves and stems that are going down. Apply two coats, allowing glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner alternate SC-9 Jaded and SP-209 Speckled Jaded to the leaves and stems that are going up. Apply two coats, allowing the glaze to dry in between coats.
Use the Script Liner with SP-201 Pink-A-Boo to create dots randomly around the vase. Apply two coats, allowing glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil eraser with SP-206 Speckled Sunkissed to create dots randomly around the vase.
Use the Soft Fan to apply two coats of SP-201 Speckled Pink-A-Boo inside the vase.
Use a damp sponge to wipe any debris from the bisque.
Using a Soft Fan brush, apply 3 coats of SW-174 Leather to the bottom 1/2 of the outside of the bowl. Do not apply to the foot of the piece. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using a Soft Fan brush, apply 3 coats of SW-196 Sand Dollar to the top 1/2 of the outside of the bowl overlapping the Leather about 1/2″ to 1″. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Apple 3 coats of SW-196 Sand Dollar to the inside of the bowl. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Once the Sand Dollar is dry, apply 3 coats of Peppered Plum using a CB-140 #4 Fan Brush in circles inside the bowl about 1″-1.5″ apart. Leave room between the circles. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Apply 3 coats of Leather to each side of the Peppered Plum circles overlapping the edges of Peppered Plum slightly. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use a damp sponge to wipe any debris from the bisque.
Using a Soft Fan brush, apply 3 coats of SW-174 Leather to the bottom 1/2 of the outside of the bowl. Do not apply to the foot of the piece. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using a Soft Fan brush, apply 3 coats of SW-191 Peppered Plum to the top 1/2 of the outside of the bowl overlapping the Leather about 1/2″ to 1″. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Apple 3 coats of SW-196 Sand Dollar to the inside of the bowl. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Once the Sand Dollar is dry, apply 3 coats of Peppered Plum using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner in a swirl shape. Leave room between the swirl lines. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Apply 3 coats of Leather to each side of the Peppered Plum swirl lines overlapping the edges of Peppered Plum slightly. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of White to the entire piece.
Using the Clay Carbon paper, trace on the pattern.
Using the Pointed Round, load in Crackerjack and tip in Java Bean. Starting from the bottom of the pinecone to the top, apply 2 coats to each segment of the pinecone.
Using the Liner, add a center line for the pine branches using Java Bean.
Using the Liner add pine needles starting with Green Thumb, then Irish Luck and finishing with Blue Grass.
Using the Liner, outline and detail with Tuxedo.
Using the Liner, add Snowfall to the branches and pinecone.
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.
Small Silhouette Bird
Using the Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of White to the entire piece.
Using the Clay Carbon paper, trace on the pattern.
Using the Pointed Round, apply 2 coats of Green Thumb to the holly leaves, then side load in Irish Luck and shade the edges.
Using the Liner, add a center line for the pine branches using Java Bean.
Using the Liner add pine needles starting with Green Thumb, then Irish Luck and finishing with Blue Grass.
Using the Round, apply 2 to 3 coats of Hot Tamale to the holly berries.
Using the Liner loaded in Java Bean, add branches for the winter berries.
Using a brush handle, add dots to the branches using Hot Tamale, Cutie Pie Coral and Sour Apple.
Using the Liner, outline and detail with Tuxedo.
Using the Liner, add Snowfall to the branches, top of the holly leaves and top of the berries.
Use a damp sponge to wipe any debris from the bisque.
Using a Soft Fan brush, apply SC-77 Glo-Worm to the bottom 1/2 of the tile.
Using a Soft Fan brush, apply SC-27 Sour Apple to the top 1/2 of the tile overlapping the SC-77 Glo-Worm.
Using a Soft Fan brush, apply another coat of SC-77 Glo-Worm. While the glaze is still wet, apply another coat of SC-27 Sour Apple and overlap the wet Glo-Worm to start blending the colors together.
Repeat step #4.
Allow glaze to dry.
Using a Script Liner, coat the bristles in dish soap.
Once coated with dish soap, using AC-302 Wax Resist, create different circles or shapes. The area painted with wax resist will show the ombre background.
After the wax has dried, apply 3 coats of SC-76 Cara-bein Blue to the whole tile. The wax should resist the glaze. You may need to use a separate wet brush or sponge to lightly remove any glaze that doesn’t automatically resist.
Use a damp sponge to wipe any debris from the bisque.
Using a Soft Fan brush, apply 3 coats of SW-196 Sand Dollar to the top 1/2 of the mug and handle. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using a Soft Fan brush, apply 3 coats of SW-174 Leather to the bottom 1/2 of the mug and handle overlapping the Sand Dollar slightly. Do not apply to the foot of the piece. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Apply 2 coats of Peppered Plum in a 1/2″ band where Leather overlaps Sand Dollar with a Script Liner brush.
Apply 3 coats of Sand Dollar to the inside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 6.
Note: this combo will run. Take caution when applying the glaze and firing.
Use a damp sponge to wipe any debris from the bisque.
Using a Soft Fan brush, apply 4 coats of SC-25 Crackerjack Brown to the entire piece except for the top and the arms. Let dry between coats.
Apply 3 coats of SC-16 Cotton Tail to the top and arms using a Soft Fan brush.
Using RB-104 #4 Liner brush, apply SC-74 Hot Tamale in stripes over the Cotton Tail on the arms and top (optional: Some may find adding thin strips of tape to outline the stripes to help instead of free handing). Apply 3 coats.
Use FD258 Pure White to draw on your windows and doors. Apply lines at the top above the window to create strings for the lights.
Using a Soft Fan brush and a Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SG-302 Snowfall to the bottom of the tree and the swirls, the tips of the arms and the top.
Using the back of a brush, dot SC-74 Hot Tamale and SC-8 Just Froggy along the French Dimensions outlines, string lights, and around the bottom of the tree.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, basecoat a 1:1 mix FN-001 White & FN-039 Light Grey, apply 2 coats. Allow to dry!
Using a pencil and AC-230 Clay Carbon, trace on pattern.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC-31 The Blues to the coat, hat, mittens & shoes.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner Shade the coat with SC-12 Moody Blue. Highlight with SC-16 Cotton Tail.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2- 3 coats of SC-16 Cotton Tail to the snowman & bird’s body. Shade with SC-45 My Blue Heaven.
Using a CB-106# 6 Script Liner, shade the snowman body with SC-45 My Blue Heaven.
Using a CB-202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 2-3 coats of SC-92 Cafe -Ole to every other stripe of the scarf and coat trim. Shade with SC-34 Down to Earth.
Shade remaining scarf and coat stripes with SC-99 Char-ming.
Using a CB-202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 2 coats of SC-97 Cant-elope to the bird and snowman nose’s, shade with SC-34 Down to Earth.
Using a CB-202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 2 coats of SC-35 Gray Hare to the bells on hats.
Place a small amount of SG-401 Black Designer Liner on a palette, with a CB-110 #1/0 Liner, outline, and detail the design following the pattern.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 1 coat of SG-302 Snowfall to each of the branches of the tree starting at the bottom of the tree stroking in each branch.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, shade around the outer edge entire design with SC-92 Café-Ole.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of S-2101 Crystal Clear to the top of the canvas. Make sure the design is dry first.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply coats of FN-019 Dark Blue to the sides of the canvas. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, 2 flowing coats of FN-001 White to the top of the plate. Allow to dry!
Print 2 copies of the pattern. Cut the pattern out around the outside edge of it.
Place and line up one of the cutout patterns on the App Plate. Lift one half of the pattern up and apply water to the plate with a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan brush and place back down then repeat with the other side. If needed, you can put a slit in the pattern so it can conform to the shape of the plate. Then place a paper towel over the pattern to secure it to the glaze and remove any excess water.
Place some of each of the following colors on a palette: SC-53 Purple Haze, SC-45 My Blue Heaven and SC-31 The Blues.
Condition a silk sponge then start sponging the bottom background sky area on the right side of the piece with the SC-53 Purple Haze then work in some SC-45 My Blue Heaven in the middle section then SC-31 The Blues blending the colors were the meet. Remove the pattern.
Place the second copy of the pattern down and put a piece of clay Carbon paper under the pattern and trace it on with a pencil.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, shade the inside edges of the snowman body with SC-11 Blue Yonder.
Using the silk sponge, sponge the cheeks with SC-2 Melon-choly to the cheeks. You can lighten with some SC-16 Cotton Tail.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC-97 Cant-elope to the nose. Shade with SC- 80 Basketball.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner and a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, apply 3 coats of SC-99 Char-ming to the stripes in the scarf also the hat brim and top.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, shade the scarf with SC-99 Char-ming. Shade the hat with SC-99 Char-ming with a touch of SC-16Cotton Tail to lighten.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC-87 Rubby Slippers to the hat band. Shade with some SC-16 Cotton Tail added to thSC-87 Rubby Slippers.
Using a CB-202 #2 Detail, apply 2 coats of SC-15 Tuxedo to the mouth and eyes. Allow to dry!
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 4 coats of FN-301 Marshmallow White to the top & sides of the tile. Allow it to dry.
Using a pencil, trace the pattern on the tile using AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern.
Place some EZ018 Chartreuse and EZ028 Leaf Green on a palette.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, pick some water on the brush then pick up EZ018 Chartreuse and EZ028 Leaf Green on the corner of the brush. Apply the color on the tile blending it to create a mottled background.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner. Apply EZ026 Yellow Orange to each of the flower petals and the center of the flower.
Using the CB-106 #4 Soft Fan shade one side and the upper half of the petals with EZ030 Rose. Shade the bottom of the petals with EZ033 Ivy Green and the side of the bud petals. Shade the bottom half of the flower center with EZ010 French Brown and the top half with EZ034 Orange.
Load the CB-106 #6 Script Liner with EZ028 Leaf Green and side load with EZ033 Ivy Green. Stroke in the flower stem and the leaves.
Using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, accent the petals with EZ030 Ivy Green. Detail the Flower and the leaves with EZ012 Cobalt Jet Black.
Add dots of EZ034 Orange to the center of the flower.
Clean your properly fired 6×6 bisque tile with a damp sponge.
Base coat the tile with three coats of SC-104 Grape Expectations using a fan brush.
When the glaze has lost its shine, lay the pattern over the top of the tile.
Trace the pattern lines with a pencil using gentle pressure.
Remove the pattern. You should see an impression of the pattern lines in the glaze.
Using a toothbrush, dip and splatter SC-11 Blue Yonder, SC-6 Sunkissed, and SC-97 Cant-elope on the tile, trying to avoid the planet outlines.
Fill in the stars using 3 coats of a glaze color of your choice with a detail liner brush.
Mix SC-6 Sunkissed and SC-11 Blue Yonder to create a green. Fill in the smaller planet with 3 coats using the script liner brush. When the green has lost its shine add dot details with SC-70 Pink-A-Dot and SC-11 Blue Yonder.
Apply 3 coats of SC-11 Blue Yonder to the larger planet. When the glaze has lost its shine, add stripes of SC-97 Cant-elope and SC-6 Sunkissed.
Fill in the ribbon around the planets with SC-97 Cant-elope. While the 3rd coat is still wet, add the crushed-up chips of dry Stroke & Coat.
Using a wet sponge, wipe down the bisque tile to remove dirt and dust.
Lightly trace three circles onto the tile with a pencil.
Apply one coat of SC-75 Orange-A-Peel in each circle with the script liner brush. Allow to dry
Apply a second coat in only two of the circles. Allow to dry.
Apply a third coat in one of the two coat circles. Allow to dry.
Using SC-26 Green Thumb and the script liner brush, create one leaf by the one coat orange, two leaves by the two coat orange, and three leaves by the three coat orange.
Using the Brown Designer Liner, draw a stem coming from each of the oranges and onto each of the leaves. Add an upside down “U” shape under the stem and dots on the orange to show texture.
Allow to dry.
Apply 2 coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing with a fan brush over the whole tile.
Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-304 Black Velvet, apply 3 coats to the tile. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
After glaze is dry to the touch, place the pattern over the tile and trace with the pencil. Press down hard enough to see a faint line, but not hard enough to see the bisque under the glaze.
Using the Detail Liner with AC-302 Wax Resist, outline the pattern on the front of the tile.
Using the Script Liner with SP-275 Speckled Orange-A-Peel, apply 3 coats to the pumpkin on the left. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-24 Dandelion, apply 3 coats to the gourd on the right. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 3 coats to the leaf. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-25 Crackerjack Brown, apply 3 coats to the stems. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Take the AC-220 Detailer Tip and 1 oz Bottle and fill it halfway with SC-15 Tuxedo. Fill the remaining space halfway with water. Shake until it is mixed.
Add the rubbing alcohol to the spray bottle. You will only need a few sprays.
Pour out around 1 Tbsp of EL-103 Sea Spray, EL-118 Blue Grotto, and EL-149 Lavender Flower onto the palette.
Dip the Soft Fan into EL-103 Sea Spray and randomly plop glaze onto the tile. Cover around 1/3 of the tile.
Dip the same brush into EL-118 Blue Grotto and randomly plop glaze onto the tile. Cover around 1/3 of the tile. Be sure to plop over some areas that already have glaze from step #5.
Dip the same brush into EL-149 Lavender Flower and randomly plop glaze onto the tile. Cover around 1/3 of the tile. Be sure to plop over some areas that already have glaze from steps #5 and #6.
Dip the same brush back into El-103 Sea Spray and randomly plop over a few areas on the tile. Make sure there are no bare spots.
Take your 1 oz bottle and squirt randomly lines and dots over the tile. Make sure to do this while the glaze from previous steps is still wet.
Immediately spray the tile with rubbing alcohol. Spray 1-3 times. You should see the black lines and dots start to move.
Begin with a properly fired cone 04 bisque tile. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Add 1 Tbsp water, 1 Tbsp SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue and 2 drops of liquid dish soap to the first disposable cup. Mix with the straw. Use the straw to blow bubbles in the cup. As the bubbles extend out of the cup, scrape them off with the palette knife and place them on the tile. Do this until half of the tile is covered in bubbles.
Add 1 Tbsp water, 1 Tbsp of SC-11 Blue Yonder and 2 drops of liquid dish soap to the second disposable cup. Mix with the straw. Use the straw to blow bubbles in the cup. As the bubbles extend out of the cup, scrape them off with the palette knife and place them on the tile.
Repeat until the tile is covered in bubbles.
Place AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper over the tile. Place the patten on top and trace the crab with the pencil. Remove from the tile.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 1 coat to the crab.
Using the Script Liner with SC-74 Hot Tamale, apply 2 coats to the body and claws. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, apply 2 coats to the arms and antenna. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out around 1 tsp of SC-15 Tuxedo onto the palette. Dip the pencil eraser into the glaze and stamp onto the eye. Repeat for the second eye. Use the Detail Liner to outline details on the crab.
Squeeze out around 1 tsp of SC-75 Orange-A-Peel onto the palette. Dip the pointy end of the pencil in the glaze and stamp onto the pinchers and body of the crab. Repeat until you have enough dots.
Using the Soft Fan with NT-BR Clear One Brushing, apply 2 coats to the front of the tile.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Take your three AC-220 Detailer Tips and 1 oz Bottles and fill each one ¾ of the way full with the following glazes: FN-213 Saffire Blue, FN-236 Miami Pink, and FN-237 Light Turquoise.
Fill them up the rest of the way with water. Shake to mix.
Take the Soft Fan and dip it in water. Brush the tile with water a few times, until it’s saturated.
The following steps need to be done as rapidly as possible.
Take the bottle with FN-236 Miami Pink and randomly squirt the tile until around ¼ of the tile is covered.
Take the bottle with FN-237 Light Turquoise and randomly squirt the tile until around ½ of the tile is covered.
Take the bottle with FN-213 Saffire Blue and randomly squirt the tile until around ¾ of the tile is covered.
Take the tile over a sink or trash can and rotate up and down until the glaze is swirled and the entire tile is covered in glaze.
If you end up with any bare spots, you can squirt on some extra glaze.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place the pattern over the tile. Slide AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern. Trace with the pencil.
Remove the pattern.
Take FD-254 Black Licorice and outline the pattern on the tile. Allow glaze to dry.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply a puddle coat to the sections of the outer wings on the large butterfly.
Using the Script Liner with SC-9 Jaded, apply a puddle coat to the body of the large butterfly.
Using the Script Liner with SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, apply a puddle coat to the sections of the outer wings on the small butterfly.
Using the Script Liner with SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue, apply a puddle coat to the body of the small butterfly.
Using the Script Liner with CG-981 Fruity Freckles, apply a puddle coat to the inner wing sections on both butterflies.
Using the Script Liner with CG-997 Seafoam, apply 2 coats to the background. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out around 1 tsp of SC-9 Jaded onto the palette. Dip the sponge in the glaze and sponge around the edge of the background. Go in around an inch from the edge.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of FN-008 Brown to the front & sides of the tile. Allow it to dry.
Using a pencil, trace the pattern on the tile.
Cut pieces of the Jute Twine the length of the sides of each petal.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply some FN-008 Brown to one side of a petal then lay a piece of the Jute twine into the wet glaze and then apply more glaze over the top of the jute twine.
Repeat step 1 for each petal.
When all the petals are complete, take a piece of paper towel, lay the paper towel on the tile, and press to secure the jute twine to the tile and remove any excess glaze.
Using the CB-106 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of SC-27 Sour Apple to the background areas of the tile.
Using the CB-106 #4 Soft Fan, apply a puddle coat of CG-756 Firecracker to the lower half of the large petals then apply a puddle coat of CG-753 Sassy Orange to the upper half of each flower petal.
Using the CB-106 #4 Soft Fan, apply a puddle coat of S-2729 Citrus Orange to the smaller petals.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a pencil, trace the pattern on the tile using AC230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern.
Place some EZ002 Cinderella Pink and EZ030 Rose or EZ050 Plum Purple on a pallet.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, load the brush with EZ002 Cinderella Pink and side load in either EZ030 Rose for a Pink Pink flower or EZ050 Plum Purple for a pink-purple flower petal.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 1 coat of EZ026 Yellow Orange to the flower centers Then shade with EZ058 Poppy Orange.
Load the CB-106 #6 Script Liner with EZ033 Ivy Green and stroke in the stems of the flower.
Using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, detail the Flower and the leaves with EZ012 Cobalt Jet Black. Using a wiggle stroke on the outside of the flower center, petals and stems and veins with straight lines. Allow it to dry.
Bisque fire to cone 04.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear the top and sides of the tile. Allow to dry!
Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze out around 1 TBS of SC-48 Camel Back on to the palette.
Dip the sponge into the glaze and sponge the bottom side of the child’s left hand.
Take the hand and press it onto the center of the tile. Make sure the fingers are spread apart. Allow glaze to dry.
Take the pattern and line it up so that the head of the monkey is over the thumb and the vine is going through the fingers.
Slide a piece of AC-230 Clay Carbon paper under the pattern. Trace over the pattern with the pencil.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-20 Cashew Later, apply 2 coats to the bottom half of the monkey’s face and the inner ears. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-48 Camel Back, apply 2 coats to the rest of the monkey. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-26 Green Thumb, apply 2 coats to the vine and leaves. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the monkey, vine, and leaves. Add a nose, mouth and pupils to the monkey’s face.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply dots to the pupils of the eyes.
Middle School+
Using the Soft Fan with FN-203 Dry Champagne, apply 3 coats to the front of the tile. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 1 coat going around the edge of the tile.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of UG-67 Ivory to the top of the tile. Allow to dry!
Center the tile on a banding wheel. Using a Cb-604 #4 Soft Fan, load the brush with water and then side load into the UG-31 Chocolate, spin the banding wheel and apply the UG-31 Chocolate creating a light circle of color. Allow to dry!
Using a pencil, trace the pattern on the tile using AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern.
Using a pencil, trace the pattern on the tile using AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan and a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, apply the colors to the dragonfly as follows:
Body of the dragonfly 2 coats of UG-225 Plum.
Top wings – outer edge apply 3 coats of UG- 204 Orange, next larger section apply 3 coats of UG-223 Apricot and the smallest section with 3 coats of UG-58 Harvest Gold.
Lower wings – inner section, apply 3 coats of UG-209 Jade and the outer section with 3 coats of UG-91 True Teal.
Using the pencil tip, Add dots of UG-67 Ivory to the top and bottom sections of the wings or anywhere else you may like.
Using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, detail the Dragonfly with UG-50 Jet Black. Allow it to dry.
Bisque fire to cone 04.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear the top and sides of the tile. Allow to dry!
Squish the sides of the pinch pot to create an oblong bowl shape and set aside.
From the other half of the clay, tear off a small chunk to create the eyestalks and mouth later. Cover to keep moist.
With the remaining clay, roll a thick coil with one side larger than the other.
Using your thumb and the side of your pointer finger, pinch the edges of both sides of the large coil to create the side ruffles. Lightly pull a few sections of the ruffle up on each side to give more movement.
Bend the back end of the ruffle coil to one side to form the tail section.
Lift the thick end up to form the head section.
Take the leftover clay and roll a chunky coil.
Cut the coil into two eyestalks. Remove excess length.
With the excess, roll two balls for the eyes and one small coil for the mouth.
Scratch and attach the two balls to the eyestalks.
Attach the eyestalks to the top of the head portion of the large ruffle coil.
Scratch and attach the mouth to the head.
Add texture to the body of the snail. And carve in any extra details (we used the rounded back end of a brush).
Set the pinch pot on the snail’s back close to the lifted part that makes up the head.
Mark the location of the bowl on the back of the snail and remove the bowl.
Carve down an indent on the back of the snail between the marks for the bowl to sit in.
Scratch and attach the bowl to the body.
Carve in the spiral on the bowl “shell” 10. Allow the snail to set up a bit and carve out the excess clay from the base of the body.
Allow snail to fully dry. Bisque fire to shelf cone 04.
Wipe bisque snail with a damp sponge to remove any dust or dirt.
Using a script liner brush, apply three coats of glaze to the following areas: A. Snail underbelly and spiral on shell: FN- 4 Red
Snail Shell: FN-18 Light Blue
Top of snail body: FN-20 Medium Green
Dots on snail body: FN-6 Blue
Eyes and mouth: FN-9 Black and FN-1 White
25. Allow glaze to dry. Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Roll out a slab about a quarter of an inch thick using the pound of low fire clay and a rolling pin.
Compress the front and back of the slab with the plastic card.
Cut out a 6×6” square from the slab using a toothpick.
Press a few of your plantain seed stems down flat on one side of the slab and lightly roll the rolling pin over to help press down into the clay.
Remove seed stems and select one larger stem.
Using the larger stem, lay it on its side and roll onto the blank side of the clay slab to create a snakeskin effect. Allow to dry.
Bisque fire to cone 04.
Apply two coats of SC-26 Green Thumb to the side with the multiple plantain imprints using the fan brush.
Wipe back the SC-26 Green Thumb with a damp sponge so the color stays in the lowered grooves of the imprint.
Apply SC-26 Green Thumb and SC-7 Leapin‘ Lizards in a gradient over the scale texture area and wipe back with a wet sponge. Be sure to frequently change out the water to not drag too much extra color into unwanted areas.
Using the Script liner brush, create a rough diamond pattern over the top of the SC-26 Green Thumb and SC-7 Leapin‘ Lizards with SC-28 Blue Isle.
Carefully wipe back the SC-28 Blue Isle with a damp sponge.
Use the Detail brush to add small accents of SC-11 Blue Yonder around the diamond areas. Allow to dry.
Apply 2 coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing over the top of the whole tile using the fan brush. Allow to dry.
Pick scroll work to go at the top of the shield if desired (Helmet and scroll).
Combine all these elements onto a 6×6” sized piece of paper.
Roll out the pound of clay about a third of an inch thick.
Compress the front and back of the clay slab with the plastic card.
Cut out a 6×6” tile from the clay slab using a toothpick.
Lay your combined elements heraldry drawing on top of the clay and trace over with a ballpoint pen or dull pencil.
Remove the paper and you should see the outline of your tracing pressed into the clay.
Using carving tools, start removing the excess clay from around the shield and leaving a bit of a border at the edge. Think about background, middle ground, and foreground when deciding how deep to carve into the tile.
Add details with the toothpick.
Apply your three chosen heraldry colors to the carved greenware. Two coats of each will be enough (SC-16 Cotton Tail, SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-28 Blue Isle ).
Roll out the pound of clay into a slab with a rolling pin.
Compress both sides of the slab with a plastic card.
Roll out a few lengths of coil.
Scratch and attach the coils in a design using circles and squares.
Add a couple of clay dots for accents.
Carve down small chunks in the base tile with the loop tool to add texture.
Apply two coats of each color of Stroke & Coat (except for SC-15) to each individual section, trying not to have the same colors side by side. Mix SC-16 and SC-15 to create the gray color.
Apply two coats of SC-15 to the raised coils separating the sections.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan and a CB 202 # 2 Detail Brush, apply 3 coats of FN-001 White to both tree and the base. Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to cone 06, 05.
Using an OB-901G #0 Liner Gold Handle and a OB-916G #6 Filbert Gold Handle brush, apply 1 coat of OG805 Premium Gold to the inside all the star and circle cutouts. Also apply to the base of tree.
Clean your brush with OA901 Essence. This bottle should be just used for the OG805 Premium Gold.
Stilt and fire to cone 018.
Put the multicolored tea light inside the tree and enjoy.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
This tree comes with a wiring hook up and multicolored Medium Twist plastic lights. The Medium Twist plastic lights were changed out for Clear Medium Globe lights.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of SC-33 Fruit of the Vine to the tree and the base. Allow to dry!
With a damp sponge, wipe back the color leaving the color in the crevices and the detail. Rinse the sponge out often as you go.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of FN-236 Miami Pink to the tree and the base. Allow to dry between coats.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing over the FN-236 Miami Pink. Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to cone 06, 05.
Using an OB-901 Mother of Pearl Brush, apply 1 thin brushed out coat of OG803 Mother of Pearl to the tree and the base. The thinner and more swirls as you apply the better result you will have.
Clean your brush with OA901 Essence. This bottle should be just for the Mother of Pearl.
Stilt and fire to cone 020.
Glue the lights into the tree and put the pinch plug wiring into the base.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour around 1/4 cup of NT-BR Clear One Brushing into the disposable cup. Thin with water until it is easily poured. Pour into the vase and rotate until the inside is covered. Pour out the excess.
Use the pencil to make 2 uneven lines going around the top of the vase. This will divide the outside of the vase into 3 different colors.
Using the Script Liner with FN-001 White, apply 3 coats to the top section of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with FN-052 Tangerine, apply 3 coats to the next section of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with FN-051 Strawberry, apply 3 coats to the next section of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with CG-1002 Day Lily, apply 2 coats to the bottom section of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Blossom Vase:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour around 1/4 cup of NT-BR Clear One Brushing into the disposable cup. Thin with water until it is easily poured. Pour into the vase and rotate until the inside is covered. Pour out the excess.
Use the pencil to make 2 uneven lines going around the top of the vase. This will divide the outside of the vase into 3 different colors.
Using the Script Liner with FN-001 White, apply 3 coats to the top section of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with FN-012 Lavender, apply 3 coats to the next section of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with FN-028 Wisteria Purple, apply 3 coats to the next section of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with CG-1006 Purple Reign, apply 2 coats to the bottom section of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Flora Vase:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour around 1/4 cup of NT-BR Clear One Brushing into the disposable cup. Thin with water until it is easily poured. Pour into the vase and rotate until the inside is covered. Pour out the excess.
Use the pencil to make 2 uneven lines going around the top of the vase. This will divide the outside of the vase into 3 different colors.
Using the Script Liner with FN-001 White, apply 3 coats to the top section of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with FN-048 Bright Pink, apply 3 coats to the next section of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with FN-025 Raspberry Whip, apply 3 coats to the next section of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with CG-1005 Maroon Lagoon, apply 2 coats to the bottom section of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten the sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-301 Marshmallow White, apply 4 coats to the tree and base. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Take the needle tool and run it in a circular motion around the inside of each light hole on the tree. This will remove any excess glaze that could clog the hole.
Using the Script Liner with SC-45 My Blue Heaven, apply 3 coats to the drips on the top third of the tree. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-11 Blue Yonder, apply 3 coats to the drips on the middle third of the tree. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue, apply 3 coats to the drips on the lower third of the tree. Apply 3 coats to the textured areas on the base. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe the bisque to remove any dust.
Switch the cap of SC-103 Lavendear with a plastic detailer cap and apply large dots around the inside rim of the piece (about ½” in diameter).
Switch the cap of SC-102 Just Peachy with a plastic detailer cap and apply a smaller dot inside the larger Lavendear dot (the sample alternated dots instead of applying it in every dot). Apply an additional row of Just Peachy dots under the single Lavendear dots that remain.
Using a RB-144 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SW-106 Alabaster to the inside of the bowl.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner and RB-144 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SC-101 Spruce it Up to the handle and outside of the bowl, avoiding the bottom.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off the foot.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe the bisque to remove any dust.
Using a RB-144 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of SC-101 Spruce it Up as a thick band spiraling around the piece. Using a banding wheel is super helpful for this step!
Put some SW-401 Flux into the Large Detailer Bottle, follow the top edge of the spiral to create a line of Flux. (Don’t apply it as thick near the bottom).
Switch out the cap on SC-104 Grape Expectations for the AC-224 Plastic Detailer Cap; follow the bottom edge of the spiral to create a line of SC.
Using a RB-144 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SW-108 Green Tea to the piece, avoiding the bottom. You will want to recede your coats here.
Using a RB-144 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SC-100 Makin Me Blush to the inside of the piece.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off the foot.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe the bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC-103 Lavendear in evenly spaced bands down the piece. The sample had about ½” wide bands with equal space in between. Using a banding wheel is super helpful for this step!
Using a RB-144 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SW-110 Oyster to the entire piece, avoiding the bottom.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off the foot.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe the bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SW-110 Oyster in evenly spaced bands down the piece. The sample had about ½” wide bands with equal space in between. Using a banding wheel is super helpful for this step!
Using a RB-144 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SW-253 Green Opal to the entire piece, avoiding the bottom.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off the foot.
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque; moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 3 coats of SW-501 White Gloss to the body of the mug.
Once the glaze is dry, use a pencil to divide the mug into 6 even sections. Use the lines to guide where to draw the design; draw various sizes of circles up along the middle of the line.
Fill each row of circles in with 3 coats of either SW-511 Pink Gloss or SW-512 Coral Gloss. Alternate between the two for each row that you fill in.
Apply 2 coats of SW-501 White Gloss as a large dot inside the Coral rows. Add a dot of SW-513 Brown Gloss inside of that dot.
Apply 2 coats of SW-512 Coral Gloss to make a large dot inside of the Pink Rows and add a SW-501 White Gloss dot inside of that.
Use the liner brush to apply 2 coats of SW-513 Brown Gloss outlining the rows.
Apply 3 coats of SW-112 Tiger’s Eye to the rest of the stein, avoiding the bottom.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque; moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 3 coats of SW-501 White Gloss to the outside of the mug, avoiding the bottom and handle.
Use the script liner to load a brush with SW-512 Coral Gloss. Dip the tip in the SW-507 Bright Green Gloss. Apply by pressing the brush down onto the bisque and as you pull back, raise and twist the brush away from the bisque to create a tear drop shaped brush stroke.
Repeat as desired until the design is filled in.
Use the mini liner loaded with SW-508 Black Gloss to outline the design; you will need to apply 2 coats. Once it is outlined, add the detail lines and thicken the outline.
Use a soft fan to apply 3 coats of SW-508 Black Gloss to the inside and handle.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque; moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the SG-401 Designer Liner to create the design directly to the bisque surface. Focus on moving away from the line to avoid clogging the tip.
Once the Designer Liner is completely dry, apply 2 coats of SW-250 White Opal to the top ¼ and the entire inside of the piece.
Use a soft fan to apply 3 coats of SW-198 Rose Quartz to the outside of the mug; receede the coats significantly or this combination can create excessive movement. Bring one coat down to the foot, finish the next coat up about an inch, and the third coat up an additional 2 inches.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque; moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the SG-401 Designer Liner to create the design directly to the bisque surface. Focus on moving away from the line to avoid clogging the tip.
Once the Designer Liner is completely dry, apply 2 coats of SW-135 Wintergreen to the entire mug, avoiding the bottom. Add an extra coat to the inside and handle (where there won’t be a glaze combination).
Use a soft fan to apply 2 coats of SW-165 Lavender Mist to the outside of the mug.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Check the two pieces over for blemishes and if any are present lightly sand with 100-grit sand paper.
Review the pattern and trim to make tracing easier on the rounded surface of the chickens.
Using provided patterns, Clay Carbon and Red Pen, trace the designs onto both sides of each chicken. If using the tissue paper method of tracing the design onto the ware: trace the design onto the tissue paper with a standard pencil. Proceed to align the traced pattern on the ware and slowly retrace with the Ultra-Fine Sharpie Marker. The marker will bleed through the tissue paper thus leaving the design.
Damp sponge ware to remove any fired dust and to condition the piece for decorating.
The Bows and Ribbons are completed as follows, using the #6 Script Liner and #10/Detail Liner with the following colors: Coral Red, Passion Red and Cobalt Jet Black. As needed place the colors on the page protector palette and if extremely thick, thin with water. Use the shaded pattern as a guide for deepening of the color.
Each section of the ribbon and the bow are pulled in with the #6 Script Liner that has been loaded with Coral Red and tipped with Passion Red. Start at the narrowest point of the ribbon or bow section. Start the stroke by tipping and slowly pressing the Liner against the ware to broaden the stroke and slowly lift off. The coloration should be darker at the beginning of the stroke and then lighten slightly as the stroke is completed.
Reload the #6 Script Liner in the same manner and starting at the opposite narrow end of the previous applied color, repeat the motion. Thus, creating a ribbon/bow with the deeper shade at the narrow beginnings and endings of the segment.
Complete each segment of the ribbon in the same manner using the shaded pattern as a guide where to deepen the ribbon and bow.
To enhance the shading of the color, using the #10/0 Detail Liner, feather in more of the Passion Red.
To further enhance the shading on the ribbon add a drop or two of Cobalt Jet Black to the Passion Red and with the #10/0 Detail Liner add a few more shading lines and accent outline both the ribbon and bow.
Be sure to paint in the ribbon around the necks of both chickens and stop at the bell or heart.
Holly leaves are completed using Irish Green, Leaf Green, Ivy Green and Royal Blue Green and the #10 or #8 Flat Shader as follows:
Smoothly block in holly leaves with one coat of Irish Green. Fully load the Shader of choice and apply color following the leaves’ contour. (Brush stroke will be visible).
Lightly sketch in the middle vein line with a pencil.
Reload the Shader with Irish Green, side load with Leaf Green and corner load the same side of Shader with Ivy Green. Blend on palette. Using soft C like strokes, apply color to the leaves with the darker shade to the outer edge of the leaf. Reload as needed. For best results add this color to the left side of each leaf first. Remember the lightest shade (Irish Green) is to the middle of the leaf.
When the left side of all the leaves are shaded. Reload the brush in the same manner and apply shading colors to the right side of the leaves with the darker tones to the outer edge of each leaf. Again, the Irish Green will be in the middle of the Holly Leaf.
Thin the Royal Blue Green slightly. Dampen the Shader with water and pat off excess water. Precede to corner load the left corner of the Shader and blend on clean area of palette. Float the Royal Blue Green down the left side of all the leaves. Also, float color down the penciled in center vein. Remember to use the shader on the flat.
Fully load #10/0 Detail Liner with the thinned Royal Blue Green and outline the holly, add a center vein and pull-out side veins.
Thin French Brown slightly and fully load #10/0 Detail Liner. Barely touching the ware with the liner’s tip, twist and pull the branches in throughout the design. Remember to lift up on the Liner as the branch ends, thus creating a fine tip at the ending.
Using the #10 Detail Liner fully loaded with all four shades of the green, pull in wisps of pine needles throughout the design.
To complete the eyes, using Liner of choice:
Horizontally sketch in an upper lid line with a pencil. This line cuts the eye opening in half.
To the lower half of the eye, apply two coats of Yellow Orange, using the #6 Round. The upper half of the eye opening does not have color.
Shade the upper half of the Yellow Orange with a float of Poppy Orange. While doing this, apply two coats of the Poppy Orange to both beaks.
Add a Cobalt Jet Black round pupil to the eye.
Finish off the eye with a lower and upper lid line, fine eye lashes, eyebrows and nostril marks on the beaks, all in the Cobalt Jet Black.
Add a White highlight to the eyes.
Rudy Rooster’s bell and clasp are blocked in with two coats of Yellow Orange. When dry, float in Poppy Orange around the outer edge of the bell and clasp with Poppy Orange. The French Brown is used to outline the bell and clasp, add the tinny tie string and paint in the opening to the bottom of the bell.
Holly Hen’s heart is painted in with three coats of Flame Red. The clasp is completed the same as Rudy Rooster’s clasp. French Brown is used to outline the heart, tie string and clasp.
To the combs and waddles to both birds, apply three coats of the Flame Red.
Sign the piece with E-Z Stroke color of choice.
The berry like dots, are added last with the handle of a brush using Flame Red. Dots should always be completed last to prevent smearing.
Fire the ware to shelf cone 04.
Damp sponge the ware to remove any fired dust and to condition the piece for glazing.
Pour enough Crystal-Clear Brushing into a paper cup, apply three coats of glaze to both birds using the soft fan. Allow drying between coats.
Before firing, pieces should dry 24-hours for best results.
Stilt Rudy and Holly and fire to shelf cone 06.
Remove stilt marks with Dremel Tool or Stilt Stone.
Form
MB-1596 Rudy Rooster
MB-1597 Holly Hen
Colors
UG-207 Flame Red
EZ003 Irish Green
EZ010 French Brown
EZ012 Cobalt Jet Black
EZ013 White
EZ024 Royal Blue Green
EZ026 Yellow Orange
EZ028 Leaf Green
EZ033 Ivy Green
EZ057 Coral Red
EZ058 Poppy Orange
EZ075 Passion Red
S-2101 Crystal Cleat Brushing
Decorating Accessories
CB-406 #6 Pointed Round or CB-408 #8 Pointed Round
CB-308 #8 Flat Shader
CB-310 #10 Flat Shader
CB-106 # 6 Script Liner
RB-110 #10/0 Detail Liner
RB-140 Soft Fan
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sponge
Water Bowl
3 oz Plastic or Paper Cup (1)
100-grit sandpaper
Clay Carbon
Heavy Duty Plastic Page
Paper Towels
Red Pencil
Scissors
Standard Pencil
If using Tissue Paper Method to transfer the design
Check the ware over for any blemishes and remove if present by sanding with 100-grit sand paper.
Using provided pattern, clay carbon and red pen, carefully trace the design on to the ware. For best result be sure and trace everything on the pattern.
Damp sponge ware to remove dust and to condition the piece for decorating. Sponging will not harm the traced design if the clay carbon has been used.
On the page protector palette place a small amount of Cobalt Jet Black and thin with water to a thin creamy consistency. If color is too thick it will not flow off the Liner easily.
Dampen the Liner of choice with water and pinch out excess.
Fully load the Liner with the thinned Cobalt Jet Black. Pull the brush across a clean area of the palette to reshape the fine tip.
Holding the Liner as upright as possible, proceed to completely outline the entire traced design with very fine lines. Keep lines as fine as possible, thus creating a pen and ink style of detailing.
Fire the ware to shelf cone 06 or 04, thus setting color.
Place the needed Stroke ‘n Coats on the palette and slightly thin with water.
Using the Shader and the Rounds to apply the colors as follows:
Thinly and smoothly apply one thin coat of Leapin’ Lizard to all the Holly Leaves, following the contour of each leaf. Use the Round of choice. Allow to dry.
Blend in Green Thumb to one side of each holly leaf and additional shading where one leaf is overlapped by another and the where the apples overlap the leaves. Smooth the shading color out into the Leapin’ Lizard.
Holding the #6 Pointed Round upright, carefully puddle in one coat Crackerjack Brown to the branch and apple stem.
When the Crackerjack Brown has set. To one side of the branch puddle in Brown Cow.
With the #4 Liner fully loaded with Hot Tamale, carefully fill in the berries and the thin ribbon throughout the design.
Complete the apples with the #10 Shader using Dandelion, Cant-elope, Candy Apple and Hot Tamale. The colors are blended thinly with the Dandelion and Cant-elope applied to the middle of both apples and feathered out to the left and right of center. Proceed to load Shader with Candy Apple and side load with Hot Tamale. Keeping the Hot Tamale to the outer edge of the apples begin to blend the reds from the outer, inward toward the middle of each apple. The yellow/orange tones will show through the applied reds. Since apples are the focal point to the project a second blended coat will be need. Please note: Since the Stroke and Coats are applied so thinly the fired Cobalt Jet Black will show through the color after the glaze firing.
Thin down both the Blue Dawn and The Blues to a wash consistency. Fully load the #8 Pointed Round with water (brush needs to have plenty of water) proceed to tip load with both of the blues. Laying the brush nearly flat against the ware and the tip of the brush directed toward the outline of design, float the blues around the entire design. Some areas should appear to be deeper blue in tone and other areas are lighter. Reload the pointed Round as needed and be sure to load first with the water, tipping with the Blue Dawn and The Blues.
Allow the Stroke & Coats some drying time.
Place an ounce of the Crystal-Clear Brushing in to a paper cup.
If extremely thick thin with a few drops of water and thoroughly mix with Palette Knife.
With the Soft Fan apply three coats to the entire piece. Allow some drying time between coats.
Stilt the glazed piece and fire to shelf cone 06.
Remove stilt marks with Stilt Stone or Dremel Tool.
To add the Premium Gold rim
With a soft cloth or paper towel wipe the rim down, thus removing any hand grease or film.
Gently dip a cotton swab into the bottle of Premium Gold. Allow the liquid gold to seep into the cotton.
Holding the loaded cotton swab at a 45-degee angle to the rim, pressing firmly against the area, pull the cotton swab around the rim. Work slowly as the Premium Gold is applied. (Color should be flag red in appearance). One coat is sufficient and the cotton swab will need to be reloaded, possibly two more times.
Allow the Premium Gold to dry.
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 018.
Remove any stilt marks with Dremel Tool or Stilt Stone.
Check the bisque ware over for any blemishes and lightly sand off with 100-grit sandpaper.
Damp sponge ware to remove any fired dust and to condition for decorating.
Into the 3 oz cup, pour about 1 to 2 ounces of the Ivory Pearl. Mix with palette knife and if extremely thick add a few drops of water. For this project the Fundamentals need to be slightly thinner than normal. If the underglaze is too thick the recessed areas of the ware will fill up with color.
Dampen the 1” Glaze Brush with water, then fully load with Ivory Pearl and scrub apply two to three coats over the entire tree including the base. By scrubbing the color in the detail of the fired ware will not be overfilled.
Fire the piece to shelf cone 04.
In the paper cup place a teaspoon of Sienna Brown add at least 4 parts of water to the color to thin to an ink like consistency.
Using the #3 Fan, apply the Sienna Brown wash over the entire Wicker Tree. Make sure all the recessed areas are covered.
Set piece aside to dry for a while.
Dampen the sponge with water and remove excess water by placing in a paper towel and firmly squeezing the sponge. The paper towel helps remove the excess water from the sponge. Note: if the sponge is too wet, too much color can easily be removed from the ware.
With the damp sponge begin to wipe back the wash of Sienna Brown. Work vertically over the tree and horizontally around the base. Keep wiping back until desired effect is achieved.
Allow the tree to dry overnight.
Pour about an ounce of the Matt Transparent Brushing in to a paper cup. Thin with water to a light cream consistency.
Apply 2 to 3 coats of the Matte Transparent Brushing to entire piece using the 1” Glaze Brush. To prevent over applying the glaze, scrub in the glaze rather than laying the glaze on in the normal manner.
Set aside to dry.
Stilt ware and fire to shelf cone 06.
Place a very small of Premium Gold Overglaze on a clean piece of Aluminum Foil or 6” tile.
Fully load the #6 Filbert with the Premium Gold and carefully apply to the top of the tree. One thin coat is needed and when finished, the unfired gold should be a flag red color.
When finished wrap the #6 Filbert in a piece foil for future use. The wrapped brush will become hard in the foil. However, when the brush is used again with the same Premium Gold the bristle will soften and become pliable again.
Stilt ware and fire to shelf cone 018. Note: the Premium Gold will fire more matte for it has been applied over a matte glaze.
Check for stilt marks and remove with Stilt Stone or Dremel Tool.
Use a Clean-Up Tool to remove any seam lines, carve any lost detail and to drill the openings for the twig arms. Holes should be about ¼” or slightly larger in diameter. Use a moistened Synthetic Sponge to wipe any dust from the ware.
To the well cleaned stoneware greenware, apply 3 coats of UG-208 Dragon Red to the hat excluding the fur area using CB-404 Pointed Round. Apply 3 coats of UG-231 Lime Green to the scarf areas using the same brush. Apply 2-3 coats of UG-204 Orange to the nose with the same brush.
Fire to Shelf Cone 04.
On a Tile or Pallet thin some SW-301 Iron Wash to a creamy consistency. Using CB-604 Soft Fan loaded with water and then tip one corner edge of the brush the slightly thinned SW-301 Iron Wash to then shade the crevices of the scarf and hat with the Iron Wash. Shade lightly along the bottom edge of the fur areas over the face. Shade the crevice areas on the snowman next to the scarf’s edge. Shade along the bottom edge of the snowman.
Use a dampened Synthetic to antique the Iron Wash from the painted areas. Try to keep the color only in the folds and crevices where the Iron Wash was applied. Don’t over sponge the Iron Wash onto the snowman body and face. You can darken the folds in the hat with a single brushstroke of the Iron wash using CB-404 Pointed Round. The Iron Wash may appear to be left on the Underglaze surfaces but will be fine as it may appear stained or dirty looking before glazing and firing. The Iron Wash residue will be insignificant if it is light in color on the Underglaze surfaces. Let dry.
Apply 1 coat of SC-16 Cottontail to the fur areas on the hat using CB-404 Pointed Round. Then apply 2-3 coats of SG-302 Snowfall over the Cottontail using the same brush. This can be applied unevenly.
Apply 2-3 coats of SW-001 Stoneware Clear over the hat excluding the fur and to the nose areas using CB-404 Pointed Round.
Apply 2 coats of SG-704 Peppermint Speckta-Clear over the scarf area using CB-404 Pointed Round. Try to evenly apply the crystals while painting. Back off the second coat slightly (a pencil line width) along the bottom edges of the scarf.
Apply 3 coats of SW-106 Alabaster using CB-404 Pointed Round and CB-604 Soft Fans to the snowman’s face and body excluding the buttons. Keep the color approximately 1/8” from the bottom.
Paint in the eyes and buttons with 2 coats of SC-15 Tuxedo using CBf-110 Liner.
Before firing, wipe off any color and glaze from the bottom of the ware with the moistened Synthetic Sponge. Fire on the kiln shelf to Shelf Cone 5-6. Do not stilt the piece. Make sure the bottom surface is fully on the shelf.
Form
Greenware Clay Magic #3793 Plain Snowman with Scarf or like piece cast in Cone 5-6 Stoneware Slip.
Use a damp Synthetic Sponge to wipe down the plate to remove any dust.
Apply 3 coats of FN-001 White to the entire plate. Let dry.
Use Scissors to cut out pattern. Using AC-230 Clay Carbon and a pencil to transfer the pattern to the plate. Align the pattern to where the center line divides the plate into equal parts. The pattern will aid you with the approximate positioning with the noted dotted lines for the edge of the plate.
Using CB-404 Pointed Round tipped with SC-93 Honey Dew List to shade the left inner edge of the peppermint.
Use CB-110 Liner to paint in the middle lines radiating from the center of the peppermint with SC-26 Green Thumb. 1 to 2 coats of color will be needed for solid coverage. To paint in the two other lines, use SC-73 Candy Apple Red with the same brush. Outline the peppermint with SC-73.
Use CB-404 Pointed Round and CB-110 Liner to paint in the yellow portions of the lettering with 2-3 coats of SC-24 Dandelion.
Use the ¾” Blue Masking Tape to section off the lower section of the pattern. The bottom edge of the tape will run along the top edge of the marked off lower portion of the pattern. Make sure the tape is completely adhered to the surface of the ware to prevent bleeding of the color.
Apply 2-3 coats of SP-74 Speckled Hot Tamale using any brush listed to apply the color. Make sure that the crystal specks in the color are evenly dispersed on the background area. Once the third coat of color has been applied and has dried to a dark dull look, you can remove the tape before the color has completely dried to overcome any chipping of the color.
Detail the lettering with SC-15 Tuxedo using CB-110 Liner. 1-2 coats should be enough to achieve solid coverage. This is where you can clean up any edges in the lettering and background areas. Water down some SC-15 and very lightly outline the outer edge of the peppermint with one coat of color.
Stilt and Fire the plate to Shelf Cone 05-06.
Clean the area to apply the Gold Luster with the Denatured Alcohol and lint free cloth. Let dry before applying the Gold Luster.
Using the OB-916 G #6 Filbert Brush to apply OG-805 Gold Luster to the rim of the plate. Load the brush with the Gold Luster and hold the side of the brush along the plate’s rim to achieve a fine border line. You can use a Q-Tip swab in the same manner to apply the Gold Luster. Use OA-901 Essence to clean the Gold Luster Brush.
Roll out a slap of B-Mix Stoneware Clay to a ¼” thickness larger than the pattern and enough to make the leaf onto the Canvas Fabric.
Cut out the pattern with the Scissors. Trace the edge of the patterns onto the clay. Using a Fettling Knife to cut out the clay shapes.
Make coils of clay approximately ½”-3/4” in diameter. You will need enough coils to fit around the edge of the pear shape. Score the surface edges of the pear slab and the coils using a Scoring Tool. Apply some slip/slurry with a brush to the scored edge of the pear and coil. Use a flat board or surface to press and adhere the coil to the slab. This enforces the adhering of the two surface and creates the flat top edge on the pear. Shape and wedge the edges of the coil onto the flat pear shape. The inner surface edge of the pear should be a gentle slope.
Make a trapezoid shape with clay for the stem of the pear. Score the edges and use the slip/slurry to attach the pieces.
Use a Modeling Tool to incise the center and radiating veins to the leaf. Slightly fold the leaf into along the center vein. Give the leaf a bit of a twist as well for movement. Score the back edge of the leaf and where you are going to apply it to the pear. Use the slip/slurry to attach the leaf to the wear. Use the Modeling tools to wedge the edges of the leaf and stem to the pear’s outer surface. Let the piece dry flat until at least leather hard stage at a minimum.
Once the ware has dried to the leather-hard stage. Use the modeling tools to further shape the inside and outer edges of the ware. Use a dampened Synthetic Sponge to smooth out the surfaces. You can weigh down the center of the ware with a weight to aid in keeping the ware from warping. Cover in plastic to slow down the drying process if needed.
Let the ware to completely dry before firing.
Fire to Shelf Cone 04-05.
Apply 3 coats of SW-155 Winter Wood to the inside area of the plate using CB-604 Soft Fan. You can extend one coat with few crystals to the top edge of the plate rim.
Apply 2-3 coats of SC-14 Java Bean to the stem using CB-404 Pointed Round.
Apply 2-3 coats of SC-27 to the top rim and sides of the pear plate using CB-604 Soft Fan. Do not extend the color to the very bottom edge of the plate. Keep the color about 1/8” from the bottom.
Apply 2-3 coats of SW-193 Ivy to the leaf using CB-404 Pointed Round. Back off the second and third coats of glaze where the leaf and SC-27 meet along the outside surface of the pear. This glaze can flow during the firing.
Use a Synthetic Sponge to remove any glaze from the bottom of the plate. Make sure to keep a 1/8” separation from the glaze and the bottom.
Fire flat to a Shelf Cone 5-6. Do not stilt the ware. Make sure the bottom of the piece is fully placed on a shelf surface.
Form
Cone 5-6 Moist Stoneware Clay. Smooth B-Mix without grog/sand.
Use a dampened Synthetic Sponge to wipe down the ware to remove any dust or debris.
Using CB-608 Soft Fan to apply 3-4 even smooth coats of FN-301 Marshmallow White to the entire front and back surfaces. Let dry.
Cut off the edges of the paper around the pattern with the Scissors. Use AC-230 Clay Carbon and a pencil to transfer the pattern. The detail in the leaves/needles doesn’t need to be individually drawn in, just draw in some movement lines to show the placement and direction of them. Save the pattern for later use.
On a Tile or Pallet thin the all the E-Z Strokes excluding EZ031 to a brushing consistency.
Use CB-310 Flat Shader side loaded (1/4 loaded) with EZ047 Thundercloud Grey to the inner edges of the pattern. Use the pattern for guidance. Notice that some areas around the inner edge of the owl is wider and heavier than others. Shade over the eye, the feathers around the beak and neck. Shade under each layer of wing feathers. Shade the leg and feet feathers.
Starting with the bottom edge of the tail feathers, use CB-602 Soft Fan loaded with some thinned EZ047 Thundercloud Grey to apply color to the tail section. This color should fade out about the middle of the lower chest area. Shade the other wing sections as well with the same color fading the color as you move up the wing sections concentrating the color to the wing tips using CB-602 Soft Fan.
Paint in EZ026 Yellow Orange to the iris of the eye using CB-110 Liner. Shade the eye with EZ036 Orange and thinned EZ011 Siena Brown. Paint in the pupil with EZ012 Cobalt Black. Paint in a line of EZ047 Thundercloud Grey over the eye using the Liner brush. Add a finer line of EZ012 Cobalt Black to accent the eye lid. Use some thinned EZ047 and EZ034 to paint in the beak and then detail and shade half with thinned EZ012.
To paint in the markings in the chest and wing feathers mix a bit of EZ012 Cobalt Black into EZ047 Thundercloud Grey to darken and then thin with a bit of water. Paint in the markings in the wing and tail feather as well as the chest feathers using CB-308 Flat Shader. To darken these markings, use some thinned EZ012 Cobalt Black. You can always go back over an area with thinned color to further darken and area but it is hard to remove to dark of a color once it is applied.
Apply a thin wash of EZ011 Sienna Brown to the branches and pine cone (oval) shapes using CB-404 Pointed Round. Do not paint the branches to the full end of the branch at this time. Detail the grain markings in the branches with EZ055 Brick using CB-110 Liner. Add a few detail lines of EZ010 French Brown keeping this color towards the lower half of the branches and finally add a thinned EZ012 line to the bottom edge of the branch. The pine cones use the same colors to add the detail in them. This detail is a simple line in an alternating layer of lines using EZ055 then darken slightly with EZ010.
The leaves/needles of the tree are painted using CB-308 Flat Shader fully loaded with EZ-071 Dark Olive. To add depth, pick up some EZ-042 in the brush and stroke is some leaves/needles. Use the brush to the fullest when stroking in the leaves/needles. Some of the strokes are “C” strokes or side strokes with the brush. Vary the placement and stroke as you paint in the leaves/needles. Once the leaves/needles are painted use CB-110 Liner to add some branches back in between the leaves/needles. Break up this detail to make it appear that they are amongst them.
Use a thin mixture of EZ047 and EZ012 to outline the bird and detail the feather separations using CB-110 Liner. Check the overall look of the bird to see if you need any accent lines or added depth to the feathers around the beak, chest and wing marking. Use this thinned mixture to add these details.
In a small container, mix some EZ031 Light Blue to a 2:1 ratio of water to color. Fill the cup reservoir with color to test the air brush and color on a piece of scrap paper before painting the sky. You can cut out the owl portion of the pattern to use as a black out stencil to facilitate getting the color around the owl. Use a piece of blue masking tape to affix the cutout stencil so it won’t move during the air brushing of the sky. Once the reservoir cup is loaded and full, apply the color to the sky area of the platter. This may take 2-3 coats or passing with the air brushing color for color saturation. Make sure you use an approved protective face mask and the backdraft ventilation system when spraying the color.
Apply vinyl word decals to rim of bowl. Using round #6 brush (RB-116) apply 2 coats SW-501 White Gloss over lettering.
Once dried, apply thin coat of AC-302 Wax Resist to words using RB-110 10/0 dedicated solely for wax work. Let wax dry completely before next step.
Using #4 fan brush (RB-144) apply 3 coats SW-510 Blue Gloss to rim and underside of bowl.
Inside of bowl apply 2 coats SW-152 Blue Splatterware to top ½ of bowl using #4 fan brush (RB-144).
Using #4 fan brush (RB-144) apply 2 coats SW-501 White Gloss to bottom of bowl.
Apply word decal to bottom of bowl. With round #6 brush (RB-116) ombre SW-152 Blue Splatterware to top ½ of word and SW-510 Blue Gloss to bottom ½ of word.
With AC-220 Detailer Bottle filled with SW-401 Light Flux, apply 2 rows of “W”s to the right side of the platter.
Using AC-220 Detailer Bottle filled with SC-76 Cara-bein Blue and SC-11 Blue Yonder, place alternating color dots inside the loops on top and bottom “W”s.
Using #8 fan brush (RB-140) apply 3 coats SW-189 Cenote over right side of plate, covering flux and Stroke & Coat and to the bottom of the platter.
On left side of platter apply 2 coats SW-501 White Gloss.
On left side of platter, place DSS-0164 Continuous Swirls.
On plate, mix SW-510 Blue Gloss with small amount of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix into a paste.
Applying with finger, push color through silkscreen.
With #4 soft fan brush (RB-144) ombre UG-51 China White and UG -72 Wedgewood Blue, light to dark on center message part of mug.
Using #4 soft fan brush (RB-144) apply 3 coats SW-166 Norse Blue to inside, rim and handle of mug.
Using #4 soft fan brush (RB-144) apply 3 coats of SW-166 Norse Blue. With same size brush apply 3 coats of SW-165 Lavender Mist over Norse Blue.
Apply decal lettering and snowflakes to message part and rim of mug.
Using #8 round brush (RB-118) fill in lettering and snowflakes with UG-1 Kings Blue and UG-51 China White to snowflakes on rim.
Apply 2 coats SW-001 Stoneware clear to message part of mug.
Fire to cone 6.
After mug has cooled, wipe mug with rubbing alcohol where overglaze will be applied. Let dry completely. Using #0 Lining silver overglaze brush (OB-910W) apply dots of OG802 White Gold overglaze to tips of snowflake and lettering. Let dry completely before second fire.
Using #8 fan brush (RB-140) apply 3 coats SW-180 Desert Dusk all over bottom of pan and up ⅔ of side.
Using #8 fan brush (RB-140) apply 1 heavy coat SW-401 Light Flux ⅓ down inside of dish, very slightly overlapping SW-180 Desert Dusk.
Using detailer bottle AC-220 filled with SW-401 Light Flux and another filled with SC-101 Spruce It Up and apply random “plops” of Light Flux and Spruce It Up along top rim of pan.
Using #8 fan brush (RB-140) apply 2 coats SW-198 Rose Quartz all over inside of bowl and 1 coat SW-198 Rose Quartz in alternating stripes inside bowl.
Using detailer bottles AC-220 filled with SC-28 Blue Isle and SC-101 Spruce It Up place alternating color dots along outside rim of bowl, about 1” long.
Under the Stroke and Coat dots using #4 fan brush (RB-144), apply 1 inch line of SW-401 Light Flux.
Cover entire outside of bowl with 3 coats SW-166 Norse Blue followed by 3 coats of SW-153 Indigo Rain.
Fire to cone 6.
Medium Nesting Bowl
Wipe dust off bisque with wet sponge.
Using #8 fan brush (RB-140) apply 2 coats SW-198 Rose Quartz all over inside of bowl and 1 coat SW-198 Rose Quartz in alternating stripes inside bowl.
Using detailer bottle AC-220 filled with SC-103 Lavendear and SC-104 Grape Expectations place alternating color dots along outside rim of bowl, about 1” long.
Under the Stroke and Coat dots using #4 fan brush (RB-144) apply 1 inch line of SW-401 Light Flux.
Cover entire outside of bowl with 3 coats SW-165 Lavender Mist followed by 3 coats of SW-153 Indigo Rain.
Fire to cone 6.
Small Nesting Bowl
Wipe dust off bisque with wet sponge.
Using #8 fan brush (RB-140) apply 2 coats SW-198 Rose Quartz all over inside of bowl and 1 coat SW-198 Rose Quartz in alternating stripes inside bowl.
Using detailer bottle AC-220 filled with SC-3 Wine About It and SC-100 Makin’ Me Blush place alternating color dots along outside rim of bowl, about 1” long.
Under the Stroke and Coat dots using #4 fan brush (RB-144) apply 1 inch line of SW-401 Light Flux.
Cover entire outside of bowl with 3 coats SW-177 Raspberry Mist followed by 3 coats of Indigo Rain SW-153.
Check the ware over for blemishes and if any are present lightly sand with the 100-girt sandpaper.
Damp sponge the ware on the outside and pour a small amount of water to the inside of the piece. Swirl this water around and drain off. This will remove any fired dust that may be on the inside of the ware.
Cover the hole in the teapot spout with a piece of Blue Tape.
Into the paper cup place the Tu Tu Tango Stroke and Coat and thin with water to a cream flowing consistency. Thoroughly mix with Palette Knife.
Pour the thinned Tu Tu Tango into the teapot and roll the inside. Make sure the Stroke ‘n Coat fills the spout and that the color covers the total inside area to the teapot.
For the inside of the lid it is easier to brush three coats of the Tu Tu Tango.
Special Note: Make sure that inner rim of the teapot and the outer rim of the lid do not have any Stroke ‘n Coat applied. If any color is on these areas, when fired, the pieces will fuse together. Remove any color present, with a damp sponge.
Set the piece aside to dry. Note, the Clay Carbon will not work on damp or wet ware.
Cut the provided pattern apart.
Using the provided pattern, clay carbon and red pen, trace the design onto the ware. The large pattern is applied to both sides of the teapot. Smaller three leaves to the lid.
Place a small amount of the needed Fundamentals, on the page protector palette.
If needed add a drop or two of water to the underglaze colors.
Before applying the color, lightly sketch in the center vein line down each leaf.
The Pointed Rounds are used to pull in the strokes for the leaves. Size of the brush is a personal choice. Try out all three to determine which brush or brushes work well for you.
To complete the leaves, use the color photo as a guide. Note: how the leaves are a multitude of the different colors, which are placed on the palette. When applying the colors reload the Round as desired and rarely rinse the previously applied colors out of the brush. By not rinsing you will truly achieve a blending of colors. Please note: if the brush does become over loaded with color, you may need to rinse and blot dry the Round before reloading. In most cases, three to four colors are loaded on the brush.
It should be noted that the leaves usually have two or three color tones on the leaf. Leaves can be yellowish and then greens are added. Or the leaves can be Orange in tone with red throughout the orange. The more variety of colors tones applied, the more natural the leave will appear; as long and the colors are smoothly blended together.
Here are some examples of loading the Round:
Load with Bright Yellow, side load with Squash Yellow, side load other side with Harvest Gold and tip with Orange.
Load with Pear Green, side load with Apple Green and tip with Spring Green.
Load with Orange Sorbet, side load with Orange, and side load the other side with Flame Red.
To change the look, load in Flame Red, side load in Orange and tip in Orange Sorbet.
Be cautious when using Forest Green, Cinnamon and Chocolate. These colors are very dark and should be used sparingly.
When completing the Oak leaves use pressure strokes. Start pulling in color from the tip of the leaf toward the leaf’s base. When doing the side segments of the leaf, work from the rounded outside edge inward to the sketched in center line. Reload as needed and press, pull and lift the colors in place and have the strokes over-lap one another. As the colors are stroked in, blend out any heavy ridges of color. One to two coats are needed. A second will often insure easier blending. Complete all of the leaves.
The acorns are completed as follows with the smaller Round:
Block in one side of the acorn bottom with Bright Yellow and the other side with Pear Green. Two coats will be needed and blend the colors together. Allow to dry.
Apply two coats of Spiced Brown to the caps of each acorn. Allow to dry.
To the top of the acorn (not the cap) float in Harvest Gold that has been side loaded onto a water-dampened #4 Round. This will add shading under the cap
Side load the water-dampened #4 Round with Cinnamon. Proceed to float color on to the top of the cap. Darken the small round nub in the middle of the cap.
Place French Brown on the palette and thin as needed to milk-like consistency.
Fully load the #2 Detail Liner with Spiced Brown, side load with Chocolate and tip generously with the thinned French Brown. Pull in the stem work throughout the background of the design by laying the Liner almost flat and slightly rotating the brush between fingers. Start at the heavier section of the stem and pull, rotate and lift off as the narrow ends of the branches are approached.
Proceed to outline the leaves, add center and side veins, pull out finer stems connecting the acorns to the design and outline the acorns. Use the #2 Detail Liner loaded with both thinned Chocolate and French Brown. Be sure to add crisscrossed lines at the top of the acorn cap.
Sign the piece with French Brown.
Place the ware on a kiln washed shelf and fire to cone 6.
Remove piece and if the lid appears stuck, lightly tap to loosen. High-fired pieces sometime will stick together during the firing.
The piece can lightly be sanded with 100-grit sandpaper to polish slightly.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Cut out the pattern on the outer edge of each section of the pumpkin and the outer edge of each leaf. You can also use your own design.
Place some SC-6 Sunkissed and SC-74 Hot Tamale on a palette.
Take a piece of Plastic Wrap and pull the ends of the Plastic Wrap corner to corner to create a puff like pouncer. You will need to this only once for the project, but is used for all the colors.
Pick up some of SC-6 Sunkissed with the Plastic Wrap, pounce the SC-6 Sunkissed on to the tile moving across the tile till there is no bisque showing. While the Sunkissed is still wet, pick up some SC-74 Hot Tamale on the pouncer then dab onto the tile evenly creating a blend of the two colors.
While the color is still wet (this is a must) place the pattern pieces onto the tile lightly pressing them down.
Take a piece of paper towel and lay on top of the tile them press to make the pattern stick to the color and absorb any excess color.
Place some SC-15 Tuxedo onto the palette. Using the same piece of Plastic Wrap, pounce the SC-15 Tuxedo over the top and sides of the tile. This will create a hammered look to the final glaze finish.
Before the glaze dries, carefully remove the paper pattern. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 2 coats to the front and sides of the tile. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
As soon as glaze is dry to the touch, place the sunflower pattern on the front of the tile. Trace over the pattern with the pencil. You should be able to see a faint line in the glaze. Don’t press down so hard that you start to see bisque. Remove the pattern.
Using the Detail Liner with AC-302 Wax Resist, trace over the pattern on the front of the tile. Make a line going around the edge of the tile.
Using the Script Liner with EL-128 Wheat, apply 1 coat to the inner flower petals.
Using the Script Liner with EL-143 Cactus Flower, apply 1 coat to the outer flower petals and outer section of the center.
Using the Script Liner with EL-142 Grass apply 1 coat to inner portion of the center, the stem, and leaves.
Using the Script Liner with EL-130 Sea Green, apply 1 coat to the background.
Repeat Steps 5-8.
Repeat Steps 5-8, but only apply the glaze to the center portion of each section (the inner area ¼” from the edge of each section). It does not have to be exact, just do not glaze right next to the wax line.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Chicken:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 2 coats to the front and sides of the tile. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
As soon as glaze is dry to the touch, place the Chicken pattern on the front of the tile. Trace over the pattern with the pencil. You should be able to see a faint line in the glaze. Don’t press down so hard that you start to see bisque. Remove the pattern.
Using the Detail Liner with AC-302 Wax Resist, trace over the pattern on the front of the tile. Make a line going around the edge of the tile.
Using the Script Liner with EL-128 Wheat, apply 1 coat to the head and wing.
Using the Script Liner with EL-143 Cactus Flower, apply 1 coat to the body, comb, and beak.
Using the Script Liner with EL-142 Grass apply 1 coat to the tail.
Using the Script Liner with EL-130 Sea Green, apply 1 coat to the background.
Repeat Steps 5-8.
Repeat Steps 5-8, but only apply the glaze to the center portion of each section (the inner area ¼” from the edge of each section). It does not have to be exact, just do not glaze right next to the wax line.
1. Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
2. Slightly thin FN001 White. Pour into the vase and rotate until the inside is covered. Pour out and drain excess glaze and discard. Place the vase upside down on a few paper towels to drain.
3. Using the Soft Fan with EL149 Lavender Flower, apply 2 coats to the outside of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
4. Using the Soft Fan with CG981 Fruity Freckles, apply 2 coats to the outside of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Wipe dust and debris off bisque with a damp sponge.
Apply 2 coats of SW172 Macadamia using a Soft Fan Brush to the bottom 1/3 of the mug and handle. Let dry between coats.
Apply 2 coats of SP209 Speckled Jaded using a Soft Fan Brush to the middle 1/3 of the mug and handle overlapping the Macadamia slightly. Let dry between coats.
Apply 2 coats of SC029 Blue Grass using a Soft Fan Brush to the top 1/3 of the mug and handle overlapping the Speckled Jaded slightly. Let dry between coats.
Apply 2 coats of SC029 Blue Grass using a Soft Fan brush to the inside of the mug. Let dry between coats.
Using a Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SW401 Light Flux in a stripe where each glaze meets on the mug and handle.
Fire to cone 6. Do not stilt!
Form
Bisque Imports S2201 Stoneware Malia Mug
Colors
SW172 Macadamia
SP209 Speckled Jaded
SC029 Blue Grass
SW401 Light Flux
Decorating Accessories
RB144 #4 Soft Fan
RB106 #6 Script Liner
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sponge
Water
Mid-Range|Stoneware Bisque
407|411
49670
Micro Pearl, Green Tea, and Dark Brown Engobe Bowl
Wipe dust and debris off bisque with a damp sponge.
Apply 2 coats of EG004 Dark Brown Engobe to half of the inside and outside of bowl using a Soft Fan Brush.
Using a Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 coats of SW214 Micro Pearl to the inside of the bowl and 1/2 way down the outside of the bowl.
Using a Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 coats of SW108 Green Tea to the inside of the bowl and 1/2 way down the outside of the bowl overlapping the Micro Pearl.
Fire to cone 6. Do not stilt!
Form
SB110 Dessert Bowl
Colors
EG004 Dark Brown Engobe
SW214 Micro Pearl
SW108 Green Tea
Decorating Accessories
RB144 #4 Soft Fan
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sponge
Water
Mid-Range|Stoneware Bisque
407|411
45524
Jungle Gem Facet-ini Monkey, Teddy Bear, and Chicken
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Draw pupils in the eyes with a pencil.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the pupils. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply a dot to each pupil.
Using the Script Liner with SC-102 Just Peachy, apply 3 coats the face and belly. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, apply 3 coats to the hands, feet, and inner ears. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-74 Hot Tamale, apply 2 coats to the pads of the feet. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with CG-982 Mixed Melon, apply 2 coats to the rest of the body. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the eyes, nose holes, and mouth.
Fire to cone 06.
Teddy Bear
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Draw pupils in the eyes with a pencil.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the pupils. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply a dot to each pupil.
Using the Script Liner with SC-102 Just Peachy, apply 3 coats the hands and feet. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, apply 3 coats to the nose and 2 coats to the pads of the feet. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-101 Spruce It Up, apply 3 coats to the inner ears, muzzle, belly, and facet around the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with CG-981 Fruity Freckles, apply 2 coats to the rest of the body. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the eyes and mouth.
Fire to cone 06.
Chicken
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Draw pupils in the eyes with a pencil.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the pupils. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply a dot to each pupil.
Using the Script Liner with SC-103 Lavendear, apply 3 coats the head and lower wing feathers. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, apply 3 coats to the beak and feet. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-33 Fruit of the Vine, apply 3 coats to the comb, waddle, and upper wing feathers. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with CG-998 Pink Pixie, apply 2 coats to the rest of the chicken. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the eyes and make a line separating the top and bottom of the beak.
Pre-print a variety of silhouettes for your students.
Hand out prints and scissors and have them cut out the silhouette.
Wipe off the tile with a damp sponge.
Set aside cutouts and apply 2 coats of SC-15 over the whole tile.
While the 2nd coat is still wet, place the cutout silhouette on the tile and apply a 3rd coat of SC-15.
Allow to dry and apply 2 coats of SC-16.
Set aside tile and get out the 6 cups and brushes.
Pour a quarter size amount of red (SC-73), yellow (SC-6), and blue (SC-11) each in their own cup and set aside.
Pour a dime size amount of both red and yellow in one cup, yellow and blue in one cup, and blue and red in the last cup.
Pour a little water in each cup so the base of the cup is covered.
Mix each color thoroughly with its own brush
Hold your tile vertically and starting with the warm tones (Red, orange, yellow) drag the brush along one edge of the tile forcing the water and glaze to squeegee out of the brush.
Rotate to a new edge and repeat previous step with cool colors (Green, Blue, Purple).
Rotate again and repeat step 1.
Rotate to the final side and repeat step 2.
When the shine is gone from the wet glaze, peel up and remove the paper silhouette.
While coat #2 is drying, crisscross the strips of cheesecloth across the tile. Leave a larger gap between the cloth in the top third of the piece for eyes.
Apply a thinned down coat of SC-35 over the whole piece to seal in the cheesecloth.
When the SC-35 has lost its shine, apply one coat of SC-46 over the whole piece.
When the top coat has lost it’s shine, carefully peel back the cheesecloth.
Allow to dry.
Dip your fan brush back into SC-46 and remove most of the glaze onto a paper towel.
Lightly sweep the fan brush over the piece to highlight the texture of the cloth.
With the script liner brush, fill in the larger eye space with SC-15 and let dry.
Add two circles of SC-16, let dry.
Add two smaller circles of SC-7 over the white circles
Add two smaller circles of SC-15 over the green circles.
With the back end of the brush, place two small dots of SC-16 on each eye for highlights.
With a script liner, create large swooping arcs with FN-42.
Connect the arcs to form bending oblong feather shapes.
Fill in with FN-42.
When dry, add FN-36 to the center of the feathers, starting at one point and extending almost to the far end. Feather the color out for a fuzzy effect.
Add accent lines of FN-37 to the feather at the tip and a few in the main part of the feather.
Using the rounded back of a brush, dip into FN-49.
Apply dots to the negative space around the feathers. Try to keep consistent spacing.
Using a fan brush, apply 3 coats of UG 31, alternating application direction.
To burnish underglaze, the color needs to be slightly damp yet not tacky to the touch. Make a ball out of a few tissues (or soft cloth) then wrap one sheet over the ball creating a powder puff ball.
When the color has lost its sheen from the final coat of underglaze and the color is still damp but not tacky, begin to polish the surface. If the tissue grabs the surface of the tile wait a couple of minutes more before polishing.
Start out buffing the surface ever so lightly. Once the sheen starts to appear you can apply more pressure to the surface to a semi-gloss surface. The appearance should look like a polished wax surface.
Let dry.
Transfer the pattern using a pencil and AC-230 Clay Carbon.
Outline the transferred pattern lines and inside spaces with UG 34 using a thin liner brush.
Fill in the outlines with UG 30 using the same liner brush.
Fill in the flowers with UG 219.
Go back with UG 34 and add line accents to create depth.
Dip the rounded back end of a paintbrush in UG 34 to create the dots around the outside curves. Repeat over the top with UG219.
When the underglaze has dried, go over the top of only the floral patterns with S2101 using a script liner brush.
Apply three coats of glaze to your tile with a fan brush, allowing the layers to dry between coats.
Remove any large crystals from the center of the tile. This will help your animal body not to become too distorted. Crystals removed can be reapplied or put back in the jar.
Using the image of your chosen animal as a reference, glaze the animal print in the corners or along the bottom and top of the tile using the detail liner brush.
Trying not to use any linework (though it may be used to distinguish small areas), use the pattern of the animal to recreate the shape of the animal’s body in the center of the tile.
Stilt and fire the finished tile to cone 06.
Form
6” tile
Colors
SC-15 Tuxedo
light colored Mayco Jungle Gems glaze of your choice
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of FN-001 White to the top of the tile.
Allow it to dry.
On the napkin, it is easier to work in sections for a larger piece. Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner to stroke in the various Stroke & Coat colors. Follow the colors on the napkin, changing any pink flowers to SC-74 Hot Tamale.
While the glaze is still damp on the napkin, place the painted side on the glazed tile. Pat the color. If the color is dry and not transferring to the tile, pat the back of the napkin with a damp sponge.
Remove the paper napkin. The color should now be on the tile.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner to brush stroke over any of the color that did not transfer.
Using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, accent the petals and leaves with SC-15 Tuxedo.
When the base coat has lost its shine, lay the pattern on top and lightly trace with a pen or pencil. The pattern will appear in the soft glaze when the paper is removed.
Touch up any areas that the tracing went through the glaze to the bisque with FN-009.
With a Script Liner, fill in the background area with SC-11.
Fill in the base area with SC-6.
Start with one coral at a time. Apply three coats of SG-202 waiting for the glaze to lose its shine before applying the next coat. Do not let it completely dry!
After the final coat of cobblestone is applied and has lost its shine, add one coat of your desired Stroke & Coat color.
Repeat steps 3 & 4 for each coral.
Remember that Stroke and Coat glazes are intermixable! A dime size of SC-73 and SC-6 will give you orange, SC-11 and SC-6 for green, and SC-11 and SC-73 for purple.
Allow to dry (You will see cracks begin to form where the cobblestone is applied).
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten the sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the pencil to label each section of the tree as 1, 2, and 3. Repeat going around the tree.
Using the Script Line with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 3 coats to each section labeled 1. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use MC-001 6mm Low Tack Masking Tape to tape over the right edge of each section labeled 1. The glaze needs to be completely dry.
Using the Script Line with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 3 coats to each section labeled 2. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Remove the tape before glaze is completely dry.
Use MC-001 6mm Low Tack Masking Tape to tape over the left side of section 1 and the right side of section 2. This will leave section 3 open with borders of tape on either side. The glaze needs to be completely dry.
Using the Script Liner with SC-28 Blue Isle, apply 3 coats to each section labeled 3. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Remove the tape before glaze is completely dry.
Using the Script Liner with SC-89 Cutie Pie Coral, apply 3 coats to the base of the tree. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Large Starlight Tree:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten the sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the pencil to label each section of the tree as 1, 2, and 3. Repeat going around the tree.
Using the Script Line with SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 3 coats to each section labeled 1. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use MC-001 6mm Low Tack Masking Tape to tape over the right edge of each section labeled 1. The glaze needs to be completely dry.
Using the Script Line with SC-89 Cutie Pie Coral, apply 3 coats to each section labeled 2. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Remove the tape before glaze is completely dry.
Use MC-001 6mm Low Tack Masking Tape to tape over the left side of section 1 and the right side of section 2. This will leave section 3 open with borders of tape on either side. The glaze needs to be completely dry.
Using the Script Liner with SC-9 Jaded, apply 3 coats to each section labeled 3. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Remove the tape before glaze is completely dry.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 3 coats to the base of the tree. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Roll your clay out in a slab that is about 7 inches wide and ¾” thick.
Smooth your slab out with your rib.
Cover your cup with paper to keep clay from sticking to it.
You can also use a soda can.
Wrap your clay slab around the outside of the covered cup to create a cylinder.
Cut the end of the slab so your clay overlaps only ¼”.
Attach ends together by smoothing them together with your finger.
Use your rib to smooth it further.
.Once cylinder is created remove the cup from your clay
You may need to twist to get it out.
Using your left over slab pieces (you may need to roll out a new piece) cut the base for your mug by placing your cylinder on top and tracing a circle.
Attach base by slipping and scoring pieces together.
Smooth attachment with water and a sponge.
Create handle by cutting a strip of clay from your remaining slab.
Curve your piece into a handle shape (like an ear) and attach to the side of your mug by slipping and scoring.
Allow to dry until leather hard.
Apply 2 coats of Jet Black underglaze (UG-50) to the bottom half of your mug.
Once underglaze is dry, carve your desired texture design using a loop tool.
Allow to dry fully.
Bisque fire to Cone 04.
Glaze:
Wipe your bisqueware with a damp sponge.
Clear coat your mug by dipping it into clear glaze (S-2000).
Use stilts to glaze fire your piece to cone 06.
Form
About 1 1/2 pounds of low-fire white clay- per piece (Laguna’s EM-210)
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten the sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use MC-002 12mm Low Tack Masking Tape to tape over the cut outs in the tree.
Pour about 1/4 cup of FN-001 White into the disposable cup. Thin with water. Pour into the tree and rotate to completely cover the inside. Drain the excess glaze.
Remove the tape.
Use the Script Liner to remove any excess glaze from inside the cutouts.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 3 coats to the base of the tree. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-153 Caribbean Blue, apply 3 coats to the outside of the tree. Try not to get any glaze into the cutouts if you want them to stay white. You can also use the Script Liner to go around the cutouts. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Large Starlight Tree
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten the sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use MC-002 12mm Low Tack Masking Tape to tape over the cut outs in the tree.
Pour about 1/4 cup of FN-001 White into the disposable cup. Thin with water. Pour into the tree and rotate to completely cover the inside. Drain the excess glaze.
Remove the tape.
Use the Script Liner to remove any excess glaze from inside the cutouts.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 3 coats to the base of the tree. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with S-2702 Northern Lights, apply 1 coat to the outside of the tree. Try not to get any glaze into the cutouts if you want them to stay white. You can also use the Script Liner to go around the cutouts.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-153 Caribbean Blue, apply 2 coats to the outside of the tree. Try not to get any glaze into the cutouts if you want them to stay white. You can also use the Script Liner to go around the cutouts. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper over the tile.
Place the pattern on top and trace with the pencil.
Squeeze out around 1 tsp SC-15 Tuxedo and SC-16 Cotton Tail onto the palette. These will be your pure black and white.
Squeeze out around 1 tsp of SC-16 Cotton Tail on 3 different sections of the palette.
Add SC-15 Tuxedo to each section to make light gray, medium gray, and dark gray. Since the unfired colors are black and white, the colors you mix will look very similar to how they will appear after firing. Just note that they will get lighter as they dry on the tile.
Using the Script Liner with your palette of glazes, shade from the forehead down to the chin. You can wet your brush to help blend if the glaze is drying too fast. You will need to work fast to get good blending.
Apply a dark gray to the hair and beard.
Add darker and lighter strands of hair using the detail liner.
If you would like to check your progress, you can always lightly spray the tile with some water, and they will darken to their original color.
Shade down the neck.
Glaze the shirt light and medium gray.
Glaze the jacket black.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the details.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-16 Cotton Tail, add any extra highlights to the face.
Lightly spray with a water bottle to see if you need to fix any areas.
Let glaze dry.
Using the Soft Fan with NT-BR Clear One Brushing, apply 2 coats to the tile. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 1 coat to the edge of the tile.
Roll out your pound of clay into a slab 1/3” thick.
Compress the slab with a plastic card.
Using a straight edge, cut out a 6”x6” section.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-6, apply 3 coats to the tile. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Place the pattern onto the tile. Trace with the pencil. Use enough pressure so that you see a faint line in the glaze. You should not be able to see any clay.
Using the Script Liner with SC-75, apply 2 coats to the sections on the upper wings. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-97, apply 2 coats to the sections on the lower wings. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-15, apply 2 coats to the body, antennae, and wing borders. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out around 1 tsp of SC-16 onto the palette. Dip the pencil eraser in the glaze and stamp around the outer border of the wings.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with UG-51 China White, apply 3 coats to the front of the tile. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Allow glaze to dry completely.
Place AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper onto the front of the tile. 4. Place the pattern on top and trace with the pencil.
Using the Script Liner with UG-1 Kings Blue (large fish), UG-2 Sea Blue (medium fish), and UG-72 Wedgewood Blue (small fish), apply 3 coats to each fish. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Before the fish are dry, use the wooden skewer to scratch a design into each fish.
After the glaze is dry, use a dry brush to brush away any glaze crumbs.
Using the Soft Fan with CC-101 Transparent, apply 3 even coats to the front of the tile. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 1 coat around the edge of the tile.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
After the tile is cool, apply SS-335 Rich Blue over the front with a sponge. You should see it filling in the cracks. If you don’t have many cracks, wait one day, and try again. Wipe off excess paint with a paper towel.
Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place the bubble wrap over the tile. Cut the bubble wrap so that it is the same size as the tile.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-45, apply 3 coats to the front of the tile. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out around 1 TBS of SC-11 onto the palette.
Dip the sponge in the glaze and sponge the textured side of the bubble wrap.
Repeat until the texture is covered. Place the bubble wrap, textured side down, onto the front of the tile. Remove the bubble wrap.
After the glaze is dry to the touch, place the pattern over the front of the tile.
Trace over the pattern with the pencil. Press down just hard enough so that you can see a faint line in the glaze. You should not be able to see any bisque.
Use FD-254 Black Licorice to outline your pattern on the tile. Allow lines to dry.
Using the Script Liner with SC-2, apply a plop coat to the nose and inner ear.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16, apply a plop coat to the eyes.
Using the Script Liner with SC-15, make a dot for the pupil of each eye.
Squeeze out around 1 tsp of SC-16 onto the palette. Dip the pencil tip into the glaze. Make a dot in the pupil of each eye.
Using the Script Liner with SG-302 Snowfall, apply a thick, textured coat to the rest of the bunny.
Using the Script Liner with SC-15, apply 1 coat going around the edge of the tile.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with SC-100 Makin Me Blush, apply 3 coats to the vest. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-96 Aqu-ward, apply 3 coats to the inner portions of the hat (areas around head). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-9 Jaded, apply 3 coats to the border of the hat (thin area going around the areas just glazed). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-10 Teal Next Time, apply 3 coats to the rest of the hat. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-23 Jack O’Lantern, apply 3 coats to the nose. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, apply 3 coats to the gloves. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-70 Pink-A-Dot, apply 3 coats to the cuffs above the gloves. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-9 Jaded, apply 3 coats to the buttons. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-10 Jaded, line the snowflakes on the buttons.
Using MC-002 12mm Low Tack Masking Tape, tape off vertical lines on the vest. Try to make them as even as possible. Using the Script Liner with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, apply 2 coats to the vest. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Remove the tape.
Using MC-002 12mm Low Tack Masking Tape, tape off horizontal lines on the vest. Try to make them as even as possible. Using the Script Liner with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, apply 2 coats to the vest. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Remove the tape.
Using the Script Liner with SC-70 Pink-A-Dot, apply 2 coats to each square where the vertical and horizontal lines meet. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-10 Teal Next Time, apply a line going down each vertical and horizontal section of the pattern.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the pupils of each eye. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Outline the eyes and mouth.
Squeeze out around 1 tsp of SC-1 Pink-A-Boo onto the palette. Dip the sponge in the glaze and lightly sponge the cheeks of the snowman.
Dip into NT-CLR Clear One Dipping.
Clark Snowman
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with SC-96 Aqu-ward, apply 3 coats to the scarf. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-100 Makin Me Blush, apply 3 coats to the center portion of the hat. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out around 1 tsp of SC-1 Pink-A-Boo onto the palette. Dip the pencil eraser into the glaze. Stamp a dot onto the hat. Repeat until the hat is covered in dots.
Using the Script Liner with SC-70 Pink-A-Dot, apply 3 coats to the top (pom pom) and bottom rim of the hat. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-23 Jack O’Lantern, apply 3 coats to the nose. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, apply 3 coats to the gloves. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-70 Pink-A-Dot, apply 3 coats to the cuffs above the gloves. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, apply 3 coats to the buttons. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-70 Pink-A-Dot, line the snowflakes on the buttons.
Using MC-001 6mm Low Tack Masking Tape, tape off vertical lines on the scarf. Try to make them as even as possible. Using the Script Liner with SC-9 Jaded, apply 2 coats to the scarf. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Remove the tape.
Using the Script Liner with SC-10 Teal Next Time, apply 3 coats to the fringe on the scarf. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the pupils of each eye. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Outline the eyes and mouth.
Squeeze out around 1 tsp of SC-1 Pink-A-Boo onto the palette. Dip the sponge in the glaze and lightly sponge the cheeks of the snowman.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 3 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
As soon as glaze is dry to the touch, place the pattern on the front of the plate. Trace over the pattern with the pencil. You should be able to see a faint line in the glaze. Don’t press down so hard that you start to see bisque. Remove the pattern.
Using the Detail Liner with AC-302 Wax Resist, trace over the pattern on the front of the plate. Make a line going around the rim of the plate.
Using the Script Liner with EL-128 Wheat, apply 2 coats to the inner flower petals. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply a 3rd coat just to the center portion (the inner area ¼” from the edge of the area you just glazed).
Using the Script Liner with EL-143 Cactus Flower, apply 2 coats to the outer flower petals and outer section of the center. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply a 3rd coat just to the center portion (the inner area ¼” from the edge of the area you just glazed).
Using the Script Liner with EL-142 Grass apply 2 coats to inner portion of the center, the stem, and leaves. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply a 3rd coat just to the center portion (the inner area ¼” from the edge of the area you just glazed).
Using the Script Liner with EL-130 Sea Green, apply 2 coats to the background. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply a 3rd coat just to the center portion (the inner area ¼” from the edge of the area you just glazed).
Use a slightly moistened Synthetic Sponge to wipe down the piece to remove any dust.
Using CB-604 Soft Fan to apply 3 even coats of UG-224 Rose to the tile. Change directions with each application.
To polish underglaze, the color needs to be slightly damp yet not tacky to the touch. Make a ball out of a few Kleenex tissues then wrap one sheet over the ball creating a powder puff ball. When the color has lost its sheen from the final coat of underglaze and the color is still damp but not tacky is when you start the polishing of the surface. If the tissue grabs the surface of the tile wait a couple of minutes more before polishing. Start out buffing the surface ever so lightly. Once the sheen starts to appear you can apply more pressure to the surface to a semi-gloss surface. The appearance should look like a polished wax surface. Let dry.
Note: If you are doing a larger surface that cannot be polished in a given time, you can work in sections. Use can use AS957 Thin and Shade to remoisten an area slightly overlapping a previously polished area and continue the polishing of the underglaze. Also, some colors of Fundamentals Underglazes will polish more easily than other due to their chemical formulation.
Transfer the pattern using a pencil and AC-230 Clay Carbon. If you are working on still damp color, use a film type transfer paper. The clay carbon is rather light on the underglaze surface. You can retrace over the lines with a pencil if the design is difficult to see.
Apply 2-3 coats of SC-24 to the center of the flower using CB-110 Liner.
Apply 2-3 coats of SC-52 Toad-ily Green to the leaves and stem using CB-110 Liner.
Apply 2-3 coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing or FN-209 Floral Pink to the petals using CB-404 Pointed Round or CB-110 Liner.
Fire to shelf cone 04.
Form
6”x 6” Greenware Tile, leather hard preferred
Colors
UG-224 Rose
SC-24 Dandelion
SC-52 Toad-ily Green
S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing or FN-209 Floral Pink
Decorating Accessories
CB-604 Soft Fan
CB-110 Liner
CB-404 Pointed Round
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sponge
Water
Black Carbon Film Transfer Paper or AC-230 Clay Carbon
Use a slightly moistened Synthetic Sponge to wipe down the tile to remove any dust.
Using CB-604 Soft Fan to apply 3 even coats of UG-225 Plum to the tile. Change directions with each application.
To polish underglaze, the color needs to be slightly damp yet not tacky to the touch. Make a ball out of a few Kleenex tissues then wrap one sheet over the ball creating a powder puff ball. When the color has lost its sheen from the final coat of underglaze and the color is still damp but not tacky is when you start the polishing of the surface. If the tissue grabs the surface of the tile wait a couple of minutes more before polishing. Start out buffing the surface ever so lightly. Once the sheen starts to appear you can apply more pressure to the surface to a semi-gloss surface. The appearance should look like a polished wax surface. Let dry.
Note: If you are doing a larger surface that cannot be polished in a given time, you can work in sections. Use can use AS957 Thin and Shade to remoisten an area slightly overlapping a previously polished area and continue the polishing of the underglaze. Also, some colors of Fundamentals Underglazes will polish more easily than other due to their chemical formulation.
Transfer the pattern using a pencil and AC-230 Clay Carbon. If you are working on still damp color, use a film type transfer paper. The clay carbon is rather light on the underglaze surface. You can retrace over the lines with a pencil if the design is difficult to see.
Using CB-110 Liner or CB-404 Pointed Round to apply 3 coats of SC-52 Toad-ily Green to the leaves and stem.
Apply 2 coats S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing to the plum area using CB-404 Pointed Round.
Fire to shelf cone 04.
Form
6”x 6” Greenware Tile, leather hard preferred
Colors
UG-225 Plum
SC-52 Toad-ily Green
S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing
Decorating Accessories
CB-604 Soft Fan
CB-110 Liner
CB-404 Pointed Round
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sponge
Water
Black Carbon Film Transfer Paper or AC-230 Clay Carbon
Use a lightly moistened Synthetic Sponge to wipe down the piece to remove any dust.
Use CB-604 Soft Fan to apply 3 very even coats of UG-230 Blue Grass to the tile. Change directions when applying the underglaze.
To polish underglaze, the color needs to be slightly damp yet not tacky to the touch. Make a ball out of a few Kleenex tissues then wrap one sheet over the ball creating a powder puff ball. When the color has lost its sheen from the final coat of underglaze and the color is still damp but not tacky is when you start the polishing of the surface. If the tissue grabs the surface of the tile wait a couple of minutes more before polishing. Start out buffing the surface ever so lightly. Once the sheen starts to appear you can apply more pressure to the surface to a semi-gloss surface. The appearance should look like a polished wax surface. Let dry.
Note: If you are doing a larger surface that cannot be polished in a given time, you can work in sections. Use can use AS957 Thin and Shade to remoisten an area slightly overlapping a previously polished area and continue the polishing of the underglaze. Also, some colors of Fundamentals Underglazes will polish more easily than other due to their chemical formulation.
Transfer the pattern using a pencil and AC-230 Clay Carbon. If you are working on still damp color, use a film type transfer paper. The clay carbon is rather light on the underglaze surface. You can retrace over the lines with a pencil if the design is difficult to see.
Apply 1 thin coat of SC-16 Cottontail using CB-404 Pointed Round or CB-110 Liner to the white areas of the design. You can paint over the entire dorsal fin. This will overcome any skips or pulling of the color during firing. If you want brighter green areas on the fishes fin’s, you can apply one coat of Cottontail to the tail and pelvic fin areas also.
Redefine the sections in the dorsal fin with a pencil. Apply 2-3 Coats of SC-75 to the lower section in the dorsal fin using CB-110 Liner. Apply 2-3 Coats of SC-27 Sour Apple to the green dorsal and pelvic fins and tail areas using CB-110 Liner or CB-404 Pointed Round.
Apply 2-3 more coats of SC-16 Cottontail to the white areas of the fish using CB-110 Liner or CB-404 Pointed Round.
Apply 2-3 coats of SC-15 Tuxedo to the face marking, eye and sections in the tail fin using CB-110 Liner or CB-404 Pointed Round.
Fire to shelf cone 04.
Glaze the body area with 2-3 coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing using CB-404 Pointed Round. You can apply one coat on the other areas of the fish to produce an even shinier surface.
Fire to shelf cone 05-06.
Form
6”x 6” Greenware Tile, leather hard preferred
Colors
UG-230 Blue Grass
SC-15 Tuxedo
SC-16 Cottontail
SC-27 Sour Apple
SC-75 Orange A-Peel
S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing
Decorating Accessories
CB-604 Soft Fan
CB-110 Liner
CB-404 Pointed Round
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sponge
Water
Black Carbon Film Transfer Paper or AC-230 Clay Carbon
Wipe down the tile with a slightly moistened Synthetic Sponge to remove any dust and to rehydrate the tile. If dry greenware is used, use CB-604 Soft Fan loaded with water to apply a couple of coats of water to rehydrate the clay some before completing Step 2. It is easier to sgraffito the design on leather hard greenware that color has been applied. When dry greenware is used it is more difficult to carve through the color and clay. Several passes of the sgraffito tool should be made instead of one bold cut into the color. If the greenware and color are both very dry, extra care should be given when carving the lines as chipping of the underglaze can occur. Bisque tiles can be used but the look is slightly different and is a bit more difficult to carve the lines into the color.
Sketch or trace the basic shapes of the owl, leaves and branch using a pencil.
Place some of all the colors out onto a tile excluding UG-50 Jet Black. Using CB-602 Soft Fan to apply a mottled collage of UG-226 Lavender, UG-236 Grey and UG-227 Concord Grape to the sky areas of the pattern. Use less of the Concord Grape color than the other two. Wet blend the colors while making “X” strokes when applying the color to the sky. Repeat this application of color 2-3 times.
To the branch apply 2-3 coats of UG-30 Sand using CB-404 Pointed Round.
Apply 2-3 coats of UG-31 Chocolate to the owl using CB-404 Pointed Round.
The leaves are a mottling of UG-223 Apricot and UG-232 Olive. Use CB-404 Pointe Round to apply 2-3 coats of the colors. The colors do not have to be exact in their placement within the pattern.
Sketch or trace the owl, branch and leaves of the pattern using the pencil.
Use the sgraffito tool to sgraffito the lines of the owl, branch and leaves. Vary the width of the lines by applying more or less pressure to the tool. Keep the sgraffito lines loose and free when carving. Use the side of the sgraffito tool to carve bolder scoops for the feathers around the eyes. Use the pattern for guidance. Use a dry CB-604 Soft Fan to brush away any debris from the carving before firing or while working on the design. Let dry.
Use CB-110 Liner to fill in the eye with UG-50 Jet Black.
Fire to shelf cone 04.
Use a slightly moistened Synthetic Sponge to wipe down the tile to remove any dust or debris before glazing.
Use CB-604 Soft Fan to apply 2-3 coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing to the entire tile.
Wipe down the tile with a slightly moistened Synthetic Sponge to remove any dust and to rehydrate the tile. If dry greenware is used, use CB-604 Soft Fan loaded with water to apply a couple of coats of water to rehydrate the clay some before completing Step 2. It is easier to sgraffito the design on leather hard greenware that color has been applied. When dry greenware is used it is more difficult to carve through the color and clay. Several passes of the Sgraffito Tool should be made instead of one bold cut into the color. If the greenware and color are both very dry, extra care should be given when carving the lines as chipping of the underglaze can occur. Bisque tiles can be used but the look is slightly different and is a bit more difficult to carve the lines into the color.
Sketch or trace the basic shapes of the leaves and grapes using a pencil.
Place some of the colors out onto a tile except the UG-222 Soft Yellow.
Use CB-404 Pointed Round to paint in the grapes using UG-226 Lavender. The application of the color does not need to be perfect or exact. Apply 1-2 uneven coats of the color. Keep the painting loose. Darken the grapes where they overlap or toward the bottoms with UG-227 Concord Grape applying 1-2 uneven coats using the same brush.
Use CB-404 Pointed Round to apply 2-3 uneven coats of UG-232 Olive to the leaves. Shade with 1-2 coats of UG-230 Blue Grass to the leaf edges.
Apply 3 coats of UG-222 Soft Yellow to the background using CB-404 Pointed Round and CB-604 Soft Fan.
Sketch or trace the grape and leaf pattern using the pencil.
Use the sgraffito tool to sgraffito the lines of the grapes and leaves. Vary the width of the lines by applying more or less pressure to the tool. Keep the sgraffito lines loose and free when carving. Use the side of the sgraffito tool to carve bolder scoops for the highlights in the grapes and center veins of the leaves. Keep the side veins that radiate from the center vein finer. Use the pattern for guidance. Use a dry CB-604 Soft Fan to brush away any debris from the carving before firing or while working on the design. Let dry.
Fire to shelf cone 04.
Use a slightly moistened Synthetic Sponge to wipe down the tile to remove any dust or debris before glazing.
Use CB-604 Soft Fan to apply 2-3 coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing to the entire tile.
Wipe down the tile with a slightly moistened Synthetic Sponge to remove any dust and to rehydrate the tile. If dry greenware is used, use CB-604 Soft Fan loaded with water to apply a couple of coats of water to rehydrate the clay some before completing Step 2. It is easier to sgraffito the design on leather hard greenware that color has been applied. When dry greenware is used it is more difficult to carve through the color and clay. Several passes of the sgraffito tool should be made instead of one bold cut into the color. If the greenware and color are both very dry, extra care should be given when carving the lines as chipping of the underglaze can occur. Bisque tiles can be used but the look is slightly different and is a bit more difficult to carve the lines into the color.
Place some of each of the underglaze colors out onto a tile. Use a slightly moistened Synthetic Sponge to pounce on 1 coat of UG-230 Blue Grass to the top third of the tile. The area should be slightly angled. Clean the sponge and then apply 1 coat of UG-232 Olive to the rest of the tile overlapping the Blue Grass edge. Repeat this step two more times to complete the three coats of colors. The olive color should blend into the blue grass color with no harsh demarcation to the colors.
Sketch or trace the bamboo pattern using the pencil.
Use the sgraffito tool to sgraffito the lines of the bamboo and leaves. Vary the width of the lines by applying more or less pressure to the tool. Use the side of the sgraffito tool to carve bolder scoops for the texture to the bamboo canes and center veins of the leaves. Use the pattern for guidance. Use a dry CB-604 Soft Fan to brush away any debris from the carving before firing or while working on the design.
Fire to shelf cone 04.
Use a slightly moistened synthetic sponge to wipe down the tile to remove any dust or debris before glazing.
Use CB-604 Soft Fan to apply 2-3 coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing to the entire tile.
Begin by wedging the clay on a board covered with canvas.
Roll out a piece of the clay between 2 – ¼” slat boards on the canvas covered board, creating 4 slabs of clay about 14” x 18”. Keep extra clay covered while not using to keep moist.
Wrap a Styrofoam cone with a piece of paper towel. This will help the clay from sticking to the Styrofoam. One at 10” another at 8”
Wrap the Styrofoam cone with a slab of clay. Score & slip the sides together. Trim excess clay with a knife. Do both cones. Keep covered when not working on one of them.
With another slab of clay start cutting out the 1” diameter tear drops. For the bottom row of the larger tree, you need about 15 tear drops to start.
Texture each of the teardrops with a plastic fork. Score & slip each tear drop onto the cone starting at the bottom of the tree and keep working up cutting and texturing more tear drops as you work your way to the top of both trees.
On the smaller tree you will need to cut the top two rows with the ¾” cutter.
Clean any rough edges with a damp brush.
Allow to completely dry!
Bisque Fire to cone 04.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN-219 Luster Green to the large tree and 3 coats of EL-161 Bottle Green to the smaller tree. Allow to dry!
Wipe down the tile with a slightly moistened Synthetic Sponge to remove any dust and to rehydrate the tile. If dry greenware is used, use CB-604 Soft Fan loaded with water to apply a couple of coats of water to rehydrate the clay some before completing Step 2. It is easier to sgraffito the design on leather hard greenware that color has been applied. When dry greenware is used it is more difficult to carve through the color and clay. Several passes of the sgraffito tool should be made instead of one bold cut into the color. If the greenware and color are both very dry, extra care should be given when carving the lines as chipping of the underglaze can occur. Bisque tiles can be used but the look is slightly different and is a bit more difficult to carve the lines into the color.
Place some of each of the underglaze colors out onto a tile. Use a slightly moistened Synthetic Sponge to pounce on 1 coat of UG-204 Orange to the center of the tile. Approximately 2-2 ½” circle. Clean the sponge and then apply 1 coat of UG-223 Apricot to the rest of the tile overlapping the orange center edge. Repeat this step two more times to complete the three coats of colors. The orange color should blend into the apricot color with no harsh demarcation to the colors.
Sketch or trace the basic outline of the flower with the pencil.
Use the sgraffito tool to sgraffito the lines of the flower. Vary the width of the lines by applying more or less pressure to the tool. Use the side of the sgraffito tool to carve bolder scoops in the center of the flower. Use the pattern for guidance. Sgraffito fine lines to the petals outward from the center of the flower as well as any overlapping petals. Use a dry CB-604 Soft Fan to brush away any debris from the carving before firing or while working on the design. Let dry.
Fire to shelf cone 04.
Use a slightly moistened Synthetic Sponge to wipe down the tile to remove any dust or debris before glazing.
Use CB-604 Soft Fan to apply 2-3 coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing to the entire tile.
Wipe down the tile with a slightly moistened Synthetic Sponge to remove any dust and to rehydrate the tile. If dry greenware is used, use CB-604 Soft Fan loaded with water to apply a couple of coats of water to rehydrate the clay some before completing Step 2. It is easier to sgraffito the design on leather hard greenware that color has been applied. When dry greenware is used it is more difficult to carve through the color and clay. Several passes of the Sgraffito Tool should be made instead of one bold cut into the color. If the greenware and color are both very dry, extra care should be given when carving the lines as chipping of the underglaze can occur. Bisque tiles can be used but the look is slightly different and is a bit more difficult to carve the lines into the color.
Use CB-604 Soft Fan to apply 3 even coats of UG-228 Midnight Blue to the front and sides of the tile.
Use a pencil to sketch out the basic stem and leaves if needed.
Starting at the center of the dandelion, use the Sgraffito Tool to “chip” out 5 small pecks for the dandelion center. Continue the sgraffito “pecks” in concentric circles around the initial center. Continue with about 5 concentric circles to complete the dandelion. The sgraffito-ed pecks should be alternating in-between the placement outward with the previous circle.
Sgraffito the stem to the dandelion. Sgraffito the center veins to the leaves. By applying more or less pressure to the tool the edge of the leaves will appear wider and thinner. . Keep the Sgraffito lines loose and free while carving. This should give you a variation in the width of the line. Use a dry CB-604 Soft Fan to brush away any debris from the carving before firing or while working on the design. Let dry.
Fire to Shelf Cone 04.
Use a slightly moistened Synthetic Sponge to wipe down the tile to remove any dust or debris before glazing.
Apply 2-3 coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing to the entire tile.
Check the ware over for any blemishes, if present sand with 100-grit sandpaper.
Damp sponge ware to condition for glazing and to remove any fired dust or dirt on the ware’s surface.
Using the #8 Soft Fan, apply three flowing even coats of White Matte to the inner surface of the casserole dish. Bring the color up the inside edges and slightly just over the inner rim.
Allow the applied glaze time to dry.
Using provided pattern, clay carbon and a red pen, trace the pattern onto the ware.
As needed place the Stroke ‘n Coat on the palette. Condition with palette knife and thin only if color is extremely thick.
For the upper pumpkin use the following Stroke ‘n Coats: Cotton Tail, Silver Lining and Gray Hare. Use the #8 or #6 Pointed Round. Note: All detailing is completed when all the pumpkins are painted in.
Load the Round with Cottom Tail, side load with Silver Lining, and blend the two colors on the palette. Following the contour of each of the side segments, blend in one coat with the darker (Silver Lining) to the inner edge of each segment. Note: segments on the left of pumpkin are shaded on the right side of each segment. Segments on the right side are shaded to the left side. The middle segment is light in the center and shaded to the left and right of the middle.
With#6 Pointed Round fully loaded in Silver Lining and tipped in Gray Hare pull in two coats of color to the small segments behind the unpainted stem. Two coats are needed.
Reload the Round with Cotton Tail, side load with Silver Lining and Gray Hare on the same side of the Round. Blend on clean area of palette. Following the instruction in step 7a, add additional shading to each segment to the pumpkin. Work out all ridges of color.
The second pumpkin is the darkest in tone. Use the following Stroke ‘n Coats: Jaded and Blue Jade.
Fully load the Round with Jaded, side load with Blue Jade, and blend on clean area of palette. Following the same approach as in step 7a, apply the two colors to each of the segments with darker color to the inner edge of the segment.
The middle segment is completed with the same two colors, however this time the darker color is to the outer edge of the segment. A few blended streaks of Cotton Tail can be added to this middle section.
Load the #6 Round with Jaded, tip with Blue Jade and pull in the four smaller segments to the left and right of the unpainted stem.
Again, loading in the same manner, apply a second coat of the two colors to each segment.
When dry, if more intensity of color is desired, deepen the shading to the segments with a float of Blue Jade to the inner edge of the segments.
The bottom pumpkin is a combination of colors. Colors used are Cotton Tail, Silver Lining, Jaded and Blue Jade.
Fully load the Round with Cotton Tail, heavily side load with Silver Lining and Jaded on the same side of Round. As before (step 7a), apply color to each segment and keep the deeper Jaded tone to the inner edge of the segments and to the outer edge of the middle segment.
Fully load the #6 Pointed Roundwith Silver Lining, tipped in both Jaded and Blue Jade, pull the small segments to the left and right of the unpainted stem.
Repeat step 9a, for a second coat of color. Allow to dry.
Side load a water loaded Pointed Round with Blue Jade and float in shading to the inner edges of each of the side segments and to the outer edge of the middle segment.
Fully load the #6 Pointed Round with Camel Back and carefully apply two coats to the three stems.
Place Cobalt Jet Black EZ-Stroke on the palette and thin with a few drops of water or Thin ‘n Shade.
Fully load the #2 Detail Liner with the thinned Cobalt Jet Black, with very fine lines, detail the pumpkins, also, add a few accent marks here and there on the segments and clearly define the stems. Be sure to deepen the shading closest to the base of the Camel Back stems.
The filler leaves throughout the background of the design are completed with #8 Round fully loaded in Lettuce Alone and tipped in Jaded. Press, pull and lift these leaves in place.
Thinned Gray Hare is fully loaded onto #2 Detail Liner and fine accent stems are added amongst the background leaves and a fine middle vein is pulled in to the background leaves.
Sign the piece with thinned Cobalt Jet Black and the #2 Detail Liner.
Stir and shake the Winter Wood glaze thoroughly. There are small crystals in this glaze.
Pour about 1 and ½ ounces of glaze into a paper cup. Add a few drops of water if glaze is too thick. Mix with palette knife.
Using #8 Soft Fan, apply two to three coats of glaze to the side of the casserole and the top rim. Carefully butt the Winter Wood next to the White Matte. When glazing the sides of the casserole leave a ¼” unglazed area at the bottom edge of the ware. Also, make sure that the bottom of the ware is free of any glaze or Stroke ‘n Coat.
Place ware on a thoroughly kiln washed kiln shelf.
Fire to shelf cone 6.
Form
SB-102 9” x 9” Casserole Dish
Colors
EZ012 Cobalt Jet Black
SC-9 Jaded
SC-16 Cotton Tail
SC-28 Blue Jade
SC-35 Gray Hare
SC-43 Lettuce Alone
SC-48 Camel Back
SC-60 Silver Lining
SW-101 Matte White
SW-155 Winter Wood
Decorating Accessories
CB – 406 #6 Pointed Round
CB – 408 #8 Pointed Round
CB – 202 #2 Detail Liner
RB – 140 #8 Soft Fan
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sponge
Water
Palette knife
100 grit sandpaper
3 oz Plastic or Paper Cup (2) for Glaze
AC-230 Clay Carbon one sheet
Heavy Duty Plastic Page Protector for palette or glazed tile
Check the pieces over for any blemishes and if present remove them by sanding with 100-grit sand paper.
Damp sponge to condition the piece for decorating and to remove any dust from the ware’s surface.
Place the Acrylic colors as needed on the Aluminum Foil or Page Protector Palette.
Precede to basecoat rooster and hen with a very smooth coat of Burnt Orange, using the ¾” Flat Shader. Do not cover the eyes, comb, waddle or beak with the Burnt Orange. Use the #8 Pointed Round to cut color in around the unpainted areas. If color appears streaked or sparse, when dry apply another coat of the Burnt Orange.
Using the Pointed Round of choice apply the following colors to the following areas:
Comb and Waddle – Fire Thorn
Eyes – Lemon Peel
Beak – Gold *If colors appear streaked, a second coat will be needed.*
Place Cinnamon on the palette and add a few drops of Water or Thin ‘n Shade, mix with palette knife.
Water dampen the #6 Flat Shader and corner load with thinned Cinnamon. Proceed to float in shading under the comb, around the beak, around the waddle and around the eyes. Keep the Cinnamon side of the brush next to the area to be shaded and the rest of brush held flat against the body and head of the rooster or hen.
Using the float method again, corner load the #6 Flat Shader with Gold and float in shading to the upper half of the eye.
Float a hint of Burnt Orange to the beak where it joins the head.
Proceed to dry brush Bright Red using the #5 Round Dry Brush. Several passes over the Fire Thorn will be needed. Try to achieve a somewhat brighter and highlighted look.
With a piece of white chalk, sketch in the flowing lines somewhat copying the provided pattern. The chalked lines start at the top of the head between the comb and eye ball.
To the palette, add the following colors and if needed add more of the previously used colors: Ivory, Pale Yellow, Dark Yellow, Orange Peel, Avocado, Walnut, Garnet Red, Persimmon, Olive Moss. These colors along with the others on the palette will be used for the comma strokes and detailing.
Instructions for completing the design work:
Use all sizes of the Pointed Rounds. The bigger the brush number the larger the brush thus the larger the stroke.
Dampen the brush before starting and pinch out all excess water.
Fully load the brush with your color choice (normally a lighter tone) then proceed to side load with a different color or two and tip with another color.
In most cases the brush does not need to be washed out between strokes and color combinations. Wash when the brush becomes over loaded with color.
The decorating stroke is known as a comma stroke. To complete the stroke:
Load the brush.
Hold the brush straight up.
Press the brush against the ware thus forming the wider, rounded start to the stroke.
Pull the brush and slowly lift off the ware forming a distinct tail. The total motion is Press, Pull and Lift.
As the strokes are pulled in, they curve slightly to the left or right forming a soft comma like design.
Strokes can over-lap one another.
Change the loading, side-loading and tipping colors often and wash the brushes only when they become too full of color.
Please note, work one side of the Rooster or Hen then allow drying before doing the other side of pieces.
Here are some examples of loading, side loading and tipping.
Load in Ivory, side load in Persimmon and Dark Yellow and tip in Bright Red.
Load in Pale Yellow, side load in Dark Yellow, tip in both Avocado and a hint of Olive Moss.
Load in Gold, side load in Orange Peel and Garnet Red and tip in Ivory.
Load in Bright Red, side load in Fire Thorn, tip in Pale Yellow and Ivory.
Other combinations work well.
Remember: Allow one side of the ware to dry thoroughly before adding strokes to the other side of the ware.
Soft smaller Ivory comma strokes can be added to some of the deeper tones and larger comma strokes. By doing this, highlights will be created.
Thin down the Walnut slightly with a few drops of water or Thin ‘n Shade. Mix with palette knife.
Fully load the #2 Detail Liner with the thinned Walnut. Working from the fine tip of the comma strokes outward, add fine lines to some of the dried comma strokes, accent outline a few of the comma strokes. Pull out some simple scroll-work throughout the design.
There are a few small hat pin style strokes painted over some of the comma strokes and in the background. To complete these, fully load the liner with the thinned Walnut, pull in a fine line, then press the brush against the ware and lift off; thus creating the stroke.
A variation of this stroke would be to pull out a fine line, press brush against the ware, lift slightly and pull out forming a tail at the end of the stroke. Add nostrils and mouth line.
With the #4 Pointed Round loaded in Black, paint in the large pupils to the eyes.
With #2 Detail Liner, pull in a fine upper lid line and a lower lid line. Using Black.
When dry, add highlights to the eyes with Ivory.
With handle of a brush, add tiny dots of Pale Yellow in groups of three throughout the design.
At the ends of the pulled in scroll-work add a dot of Hot Orange.
Sign the pieces.
With the softer ¾” Flat Shader, apply two smooth coats of Brush on Matte Sealer over the entire hen and rooster. Be sure to apply as smooth as possible and allow some drying time between coats.
Form
MB 1596 Rudy Rooster
MB 1597 Holly Hen
Colors
OS432 Ivory
OS433 Pale Yellow
OS434 Lemon Peel
OS435 Dark Yellow
OS436 Gold
OS438 Orange Peel
OS439 Hot Orange
OS440 Burnt Orange
OS449 Bright Red
OS466 Avocado
OS472 Walnut
OS476 Black
OS480 Garnet Red
OS481 Cinnamon
OS484 Persimmon
OS487 Olive Moss
OS568 Fire Thorn
AC-502 Matte Sealer
Decorating Accessories
AB-710 3/4” Flat Shader
CB-404 #4 Pointed Round
CB-406 #6 Pointed Round
CB-408 #8 Pointed Round
CB-306 #6 Flat Shader
CB-202 #2 Detail Liner
DB-802 #5 Round Dry Brush
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sponge
Palette knife
Aluminum Foil for palette or Heavy-Duty Plastic Page Protector
Start with properly-fired bisque. Wipe away any dust with a damp sponge.
With AC-220 filled with SW-401 Light Flux, apply 2 rows of “W”s.
Using CB-106 #6 Script Liner (or AC-224 Plastic Caps on the bottles), place dots of SC-103 Lavendear inside the loops of the top row of “W”s. Apply 2 coats.
Using CB-106 #6 Script Liner (or AC-224 Plastic Caps on the bottles), place dots of SC-101 Spruce It Up inside the loops of the bottom row of “W”s. Apply 2 coats.
Apply 3 coats of SW-194 Nimbus to the outside of the bowl avoiding the foot using CB-140 #4 Soft Fan. Let dry between coats. Nimbus is very mobile. Take caution when applying. We suggest receding your coats.
Apply 3 coats of SW-194 Nimbus to the inside of the bowl using CB-140 #4 Soft Fan. Let dry between coats.
Research culinary treats that are typically cut into slices. (Ex. Cheese, pie, cake, etc…) Specifically, what that food looks like once it’s cut away from the larger piece.
Cut a rectangle of cardstock or cardboard 12”x 4”
Fold at the halfway point (6”).
Decide how thick or thin you want your slice to be by how wide the angle is after folding, and measure between the two end pieces (ours is 3”).
Cut a rectangle from cardstock that is your endpiece measurement by your width (ours is 3”x4”).
Roll out a slab of clay about ¼” thick.
Compress the slab with a plastic card.
Lay your rectangle patterns on the slab and trace.
Remove the pattern and cut out the pieces with a toothpick.
Take your 12” long rectangle of clay and fold in half to form a V.
Slip and score the two end pieces to the smaller rectangle.
Take two thin coils and press into the corners to reinforce the structure.
Take the triangle of walls and set on top of the remainder of the clay slab.
Trace the outside edge of the walls around the triangle shape two different times and cut. One triangle will be the base, the other the lid.
Slip and score the base to the bottom of the walls.
Reinforce with coils
To make a lid, run coils along the face of the last triangle, inside where the walls will sit when it’s flipped over. Double check to make sure the lid coils will fit inside the box.
Using coil building, carving, and sculptural effects, add the details that will make your treat look realistic.
Pay attention to the textures on things like cake, crust, fillings, icing, etc…
Use Mayco’s Fundamentals Underglaze directly on greenware to color your piece.
Bisque fire to shelf cone 04.
Clear glaze any areas that need to be shiny. Add any other lowfire glazes you’d like to use during this step.
Knead the mold trimmings from the casting and moisten if necessary. Roll clay trimmings out into about a ¼” slab approximately 3”x 5”X ¼. Place face pattern onto clay. Trace the basic placement of the beak, eyes and rings of feathers. Use a Clean Up Tool to cut out the shape of the face. Use the AC-219 Bottle’s opening to press in the pupil circles for the eyes. Use the bottle cap to press in the ring around the eyes, rotating the edge of the bottle to form texture around the pupil Use the curved end of the Clean Up Tool to press in the concentric design detail around the eyes. Rock the tool’s curved point towards the while pressing firmly enough to cause a good imprint.
Score and attach the face to the center of the oval vase using some slip. Roll a small amount of clay into a cone shape. Towards the fat end of the cone, pinch the end between your thumb and index finger to reshape the top end into a slight peak. Score and slip the beak onto the face. Use the Clean Up Tool to make two indentations in the top of the beak.
Trace the chest feathers onto the front of the oval container centering the feathers under the beak. Use a Sgraffito Tool to carve the edge and basic shapes of the feathers. Carve the detail lines in each feather.
Use the Clean Up Tool to fettle the seam lines. Use the Green Grit Cloth to further refine the seam lines. Use a moistened Synthetic Sponge to wipe down the piece to remove any dust before firing.
Let the piece dry thoroughly before firing. Fire to Shelf Cone 04.
6. Use a slightly moistened Synthetic Sponge to wipe down the piece before painting. Check to make sure that no debris is attached to the incised lines on the feathers.
Place some SC-14 Java Bean onto a tile and thin with water to a milky consistency. Use CB-604 Soft Fan to apply color to the Face and Chest Feathers. Use a Synthetic Sponge to wipe back the highlights. Rinse sponge often. Let Dry.
Use CB-406Pointed Round to dry brush some SC-45 My Blue Heaven onto the highlights on the face feathers. Accent the outer edges with some SC-11 Blue Yonder with the same brush.
Apply 2-3 coats SC-34 Down To Earth to the pupils of the eyes using CB-110 Liner. Paint the beak with the same color. To the iris of the eye apply 2-3 coats of SC-5 Tiger Tail using CB-110 Liner.
To the chest feathers apply 2-3 coats of thinned SC-5 Tiger Tail using the CB-406Pointed Round. Try to apply the color to the feathers while not allowing the color to fill in the crevices of the detail.
Apply 3 coats of FN-08 Brown to the inside of the canister using CB-604 Soft Fan.
Apply 2-3 coats of CG-965 Mocha Marble to the body of the canister using CB-604 Soft Fan or CB-406Pointed Round. Try to evenly disperse the crystals while not allow clumps of crystals to form. Apply 1-2 coats of S-2102 Crystal Clear Brushing to the face and chest feathers using CB-406Pointed Round
Stilt and Fire the piece to Shelf Cone 05-06.
Note. The design can be painted if you don’t have a wet piece of greenware to modify. There are some slightly different steps to painting if you don’t modify the piece. No antiquing of the face and chest feathers would be done. Paint the blue colors to the face then detail the pattern with the Java Bean replacing the incised lines. The eyes and beak are painted the same. For the chest feathers, apply 2-3 thinned coats of the Tiger Tail wash and then detail with Java Bean. Apply 1-2 coats of Crystal Clear Brushing over these areas.
Form
CD-1284 Oval Canister, WET greenware.
Note: Keep the mold trimmings from mold casting. If you don’t have access to wet greenware the piece can be accomplished just by painting in the pattern. Read the notation at the end of the instructions for guidance.
Use a moistened Synthetic Sponge to wipe down the ware to remove any dust.
Use a pencil and AC-230 Clay Carbon to transfer the basic shape of the moon and raven.
Starting with the left side of the moon, use CB-404Pointed Round to start dabbing in SC-55 Yella Bout It, transition to SC-42 Butter Me Up as you move up towards the top of the moon around the Raven. Towards the middle top of the moon introduce SC-24 Dandelion. As you move around to the left side of the moon bring in some SC-50 Orange Ya Happy then to some SC-25 Crackerjack Brown and finally some SC-81 Cinnamon Stix about middle of the moon. Then start reversing the order of the colors towards the bottom of the moon where it meets the Raven. Repeat this step for the applications of the colors and blending them as you apply each coat. Work the colors back and forth over one another to aid in the blending process. Slightly extend the color past the moon’s edge as well.
If necessary, redefine the outline of the moon and Raven. Apply 3 coats of SC-33 Fruit of the Vine to the Raven using CB-406Pointed Round.
Trace the details in the Raven and lettering onto the ware. The detail in the bird excluding the beak and pupil are reversed from the pattern. i.e., the markings in the bird as shown would be what you don’t paint. They will show as highlights in the bird. Paint in the beak outlines and detail and the pupil excluding the highlight with SC-15 Tuxedo using CB-110 Liner. Apply 1 coat of slightly thinned SC-15 Tuxedo to the bird using CB-110 Liner or CB-404Pointed Round. Carry a full brush of color when painting. Start at the head and work backwards and downward omitting the highlights in the Raven. If you paint the brushstrokes as the feathers would lay, any thin applications of color will show hints of the purple underneath further enhancing the Raven.
Apply 2-3 coats of SC-15 Tuxedo to the background around the Moon and Raven using CB-106 Script Liner, CB-404Pointed Round and CB-602 Soft Fan.
If you are painting in the lettering, use AB-706 Filbert loaded with SC-81 Cinnamon Stix. Use CB-110 Liner to outline the lettering with a fine line of thinned SC-15 Tuxedo. Let dry.
Shake well SG-701 Star Dust Clear. The specks have a tendency to settle in the jar. To the background excluding the moon and Raven apply 1 good even coat of SG-701 Star Dust Clear using CB-404Pointed Round and CB-602 Soft Fan. Let dry.
Plan out what kind of three fish you’d like to make.
On a piece of paper, draw out a round body outline with a top and back fin, plus a little jut out for the jaw.
Cut out your outline.
Find a variety of objects (natural or manmade) to use to press into the clay for texture. Some of the textures we used on our fish were netting, dandelion leaves, cardboard, and the backs of paintbrushes.
Pick out at least two colors of glaze per fish. We used two foundations and one jungle gem color per fish.
Roll out and compress a slab of clay from your two pounds of clay about a 1/3rd inch thick
Lay your paper template on the slab of clay and trace with a toothpick.
Remove the template and cut all the way through your traced area.
With the remaining clay, cut out a round shape (for the eye) and heart shape (for the fin) attachment and set aside.
Lay your found objects on the areas of the clay you would like to print.
Press item down with your fingertips.
Using a plastic card, smooth the object down onto the clay
Carefully peel the texture objects up out of the clay
Using your toothpick, scratch into the back side of your clay eye and fin attachments.
Scratch the surface of the main fish body where you want your attachments to be.
Take a small drop of water and drip onto the scratched portion of the body.
Press and wiggle attachments onto the body where you placed your drop of water. 5. Allow to dry 6. Bisque fire to shelf cone 04
Apply 3 coats of Foundations Sheers to the textured areas of your fish.
3 coats of Jungle Gems glaze can be applied to the less textured areas.
Trace shapes onto cardboard or cardstock to use as stencils for cutting clay.
Decide what pet or animal to base your box off of.
Draw your animal ideas onto your stencils.
Roll out a slab that is about a quarter-inch thick.
Compress slab with a plastic card.
Using a fettling toothpick, trace and cut out shapes from compressed slab.
If using the pattern, cut out 1 of shape A (top), 4 of shape B (sides), and 1 of shape C (bottom).
Smooth out cut edges with a damp sponge.
Cut a beveled edge on all sides of each shape with a fettling knife. To create a beveled edge, bring your clay slab to the end of the table and use the table to hold your fettling knife or bevel cutter sturdy at a 45-degree angle to cut.
Attach the beveled angles together by scoring and slipping.
Roll a thin coil and press into each corner as extra support at the seam.
Smoosh ends together and smooth out the seam
Repeat steps 1-3 with all sides of the box.
With a damp sponge, clean up surfaces.
Attach ear shapes to the top of the box by scoring and slipping.
Allow the clay to reach a semi-leatherhard state.
Using a craft knife, carefully cut off the top of the box to form the lid.
Cut at an angle to ensure the lid doesn’t slip off the box when put together.
With a soft fan brush, apply 3 coats of your glaze to the sides and top of boxes. Be sure to not get glaze where the lid and body of the box meet.
When glaze is no longer shiny, use a loop tool and/or toothpick to carve your animal details through the glaze and into the box.
With the lid off the box, allow the box and lid to dry completely.
Stack a variety of bowls and cups to make a rounded cone shape.
Put a sheet of plastic wrap over the form, tucking the edges in under the form.
Pull off smaller chunks of clay from your 2lb block.
With gentle, even pressure, roll out a long coil about the thickness of a pinky finger.
Wrap the coil around the base of your form.
When the coil begins to overlap with the coil beneath it, take a toothpick and score the top of the base coil, and the bottom of the coil you are wrapping.
Dip your finger in the water bowl and place a drop of water on the scored section of the bottom coil.
Sandwich your scored coils together and repeat as you build up your form.
When you finish coiling, take the toothpick, and run it at an angle between the coils to help clean up score marks and press the connection points together.
Cut a hole about 3” wide somewhere in the base for the “door”.
From the excess clay, make little signs to score and attach to the coils.
Bees can be made by rolling two tiny balls. One ball is attached as the body. The other ball is pinched into a teardrop shape and then cut in half to make the wings. Attach these next to the body. 5. For the big top bee, hollow out a larger ball and attach it to the top of your skep.
Carefully remove the form from the inside of the piece and allow your skep to dry. Do not allow the project to dry on the form or the clay will crack as it shrinks.
Bisque fire to cone 04.
Glaze the whole piece, inside and out, with three coats of EL-107 Amber Ash, taking care to avoid any additions attached to your skep. (Bees, signs, etc.)
Glaze your bees with Stroke and Coat glazes # 15,16, and 6. Be sure to use three coats for solid coverage.
Clean all glaze off the foot of the piece, or stilt, and fire to cone 06.
Use a moistened Synthetic Sponge to wipe down the ware to remove any dust.
Using AC-230 Clay Carbon and a pencil to trace the division line of the face from the hat and sky areas. Apply 2 coats of FN-01 White to the hat and sky area using CB-604 Soft Fan. Let dry.
Reposition the pattern and trace the hat and hat band area as before.
Using CB-604 Soft Fan to apply 1-2 coats of SC-45 My Blue Heaven and SC-103 Lavendear to the sky area and wet blend where the two colors overlap. My Blue Heaven color to one side of the sky and darken the other side with the Lavendear.
Apply 2-3 coats of SP-254 Speckled Vanilla Dip to the hat excluding the hat band using CB-406 or CB-404Pointed Round.
Load CB-604 Soft Fan with FN-022 Tan applying 3 even coats of the color to the face area on the front of the plate and to the entire back of the plate.
On a tile, thin some SC-14 Java Bean to almost a dirty water consistency. Use CB-110 Line loaded with the very thin color to paint in the line texture of the burlap to the face. Try to keep the lines completely horizontal and vertical when painting. The lines look better if they vary in thickness and spacing between each other. It should look like a loose weave burlap when completed done. Let Dry.
Retrace the pattern to the face as before.
Apply 2-3 coats of SC-23 Jack-O-Lantern to the hat band and nose using CB-404 Pointed Round.
Apply 2-3 coats of SC-16 Cottontail to the eye areas using CB-404Pointed Round. Let dry. Detail the outline of the eyes and pupil with SC-15 Tuxedo using CB-110 Liner. Paint in the eyebrow and mouth lines using CB-110 Liner. The mouth line is thicker than the eyebrow lines. Thin some Tuxedo with water and paint in the fine stitching lines to the eyebrows, mouth and nose.
Thin some SC-14 Java Bean for shading of the hat and hat band. Load the CB-404Pointed Round with the slightly thinned color to apply the shading in the hat and hat band in a scruffy haphazard manner. Darken the shading with some thinned SC-34 Down To Earth in the same manner. Paint in some random cross hatched lines to resemble the woven hat texture.
Detail the outlines of the hat with thinned down SC-34 Down to Earth using CB-110. Keep the lines uneven and broken to give the lines a free styled appearance.
To create the paint chips, place the stroke and coat colors onto a piece of foil and bake in the oven for about 30 to 45 minutes at 250 degrees. Remove from the foil and crush individual colors into small pieces.
Divide the plate into 2 sections.
Using the Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of Clear to the back, keeping off the foot and inside areas.
Using the Fan, apply 2 coats of Sand Dollar to 1 side of the divided plate, and Nimbus to the opposite side.
Using the Liner, apply in sections Sand Dollar, and while wet, sprinkle on the brown colored Stroke and Coat chips. Continue until the entire tan section is completed.
Using the Liner, apply in sections Nimbus, and while still wet, sprinkle on the blue colored Stroke and Coat chips. Continue until the entire blue section is completed.
If you are concerned that the chips will move/get loose, spray a few light coats of hair spray to hold them in place.
Place on a well kiln washed shelf and fire to shelf cone 6
To create the paint chips, place the stroke and coat colors onto a piece of foil and bake in the oven for about 30 to 45 minutes at 250 degrees. Remove from the foil and crush individual colors into small pieces.
Divide the plate into 2 sections.
Using the Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of Clear to the back, keeping off the foot and inside areas.
Using the Fan, apply 2 coats of Ivy to 1 side of the divided plate, and Nimbus to the opposite side.
Using the Liner, apply in sections Ivy, and while wet, sprinkle on the green colored Stroke and Coat chips. Continue until the entire green section is completed.
Using the Liner, apply in sections Nimbus, and while still wet, sprinkle on the blue colored Stroke and Coat chips. Continue until the entire blue section is completed.
If you are concerned that the chips will move/get loose, spray a few light coats of hair spray to hold them in place.
Place on a well kiln washed shelf and fire to shelf cone 6
Outline the entire design with the Black Designer Liner.
Using the Round and Liner, apply 2 coats of Sunkissed to the yellow leaves, Tu Tu Tango to the red colored leaves and Can’t Elope to the orange leaves and to the letters.
Using the liner, apply 2 coats of Tiger Tail to the stems.
Using the Soft Fan and Script Liner, apply 2 coats of Amber Quartz to the rim and back of the plate, excluding the foot and recessed area.
Using the Soft Fan and Script Liner, apply 1 coat of Autumn to the background, keeping off the painted areas.
Apply 1 coat of clear over the Autumn areas.
Place on a well kiln washed shelf and fire to shelf cone 6
Set pot on its side so the opening can become your monsters mouth and smooth out any cracks with your finger.
Using small pieces of clay sculpt features for your monster (eyes, teeth, tongue, arms, legs, tail, fins, etc.).
Attach the features to your pot by slipping and scoring them together.
Smooth out your connections with your fingers and water.
Let your pot dry slowly.
Once it is completely dry, bisque fire your pot to cone 04.
Glaze:
Wipe your bisqueware with a damp sponge.
Coat your pot with 3 coats of your favorite Jungle Gem (Pictured: CG-785 Royal Fantasy, CG-707 Woodland Fantasy, CG-998 Pink Pixie, CG-718 Blue Caprice, S-2702 Northern Lights).
Using a detail brush apply 3 coats of SC-16 CottonTail to the eyes and teeth.
Using a detail brush create the pupils with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 3 coats.
Add color to the tongue using a detail brush and 3 coats of SC-95 Pinkie Swear.
Use stilts to fire pieces to cone 06.
Form
1/2-3/4 of a pound of white clay per piece (Laguna’s EM-210)
Using the back of your needle tool or a pencil, draw lines into the sides of your tumbler (optional)
Allow to dry fully
Bisque fire to Cone 04
Glaze:
Wipe Bisque tile clean with a damp sponge removing any dust
In a small cup mix 1 teaspoon of your chosen underglaze and 2 drops of liquid soap into 2 teaspoons of water. Mix thoroughly
Tilt cup slightly and use a straw to blow gently into the mixture until bubbles overflow
Use the straw to pull the bubbles from the cup onto the tile and let them pop on their own. Do not touch the bubbles or let them slide around once on the tile for best results
Allow bubble background to dry completely
Option to add jet black accents to texture by applying jet black with a detail brush
Once underglaze is dry, fully dip in clear glaze
Glaze fire to Cone 06 on stilts
Form
Wheel thrown tumbler – 1 ½ to 2 pounds of low-fire white clay per piece (Laguna’s EM-210)
Using about 1 lb of clay, roll out a ¾” thick slab
Smooth out both sides of the slab with a rib
Cut your desired shape out of the slab for your wall plaque (I chose a flower shape)
Using a ½ lb of clay, make a small pinch pot
Smooth out pinch pot and cut it in half using your wire tool, so you have one half of the pot
Attach the cut pot to your wall plaque shape by sliping and sociring the prices together
Add optional drain holes to the bottom of your pot with your needle tool
If you added drain holes, mold a small drip tray using the remainder of your clay and attach it to the plaque under where the water would drain
Create a nail hole for hanging your planter on the top of your plaque with the back side of your needle tool or a pencil
Smooth out any flaws with your finger or a sponge
Allow to dry fully
Bisque fire to Cone 04
Glaze:
Wipe Bisque tile clean with a damp sponge removing any dust
Use masking tape to tape off the area you do not want bubble glazed
In a small cup mix 1 teaspoon of your chosen underglaze and 2 drops of liquid soap into 2 teaspoons of water. Mix thoroughly
Tilt cup slightly and use a straw to blow gently into the mixture until bubbles overflow
Use the straw to pull the bubbles from the cup onto the tile and let them pop on their own. Do not touch the bubbles or let them slide around once on the tile for best results
Allow bubble background to dry completely
Remove masking tape and apply 3 coats of China White to the non-bubble glazed area
Once underglaze is dry, fully dip in clear glaze
Glaze fire to Cone 06 on stilts
Form
½ to 2 pounds of low-fire white clay- per piece (Laguna’s EM-210)
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan brush with FN001 White, apply 1 coat to the front of the platter.
Place the pattern over the front of the platter. Lightly trace the strawberries with a pencil. You should be able to see a faint outline in the glaze.
Squeeze out 1/2 tbsp SP201 Speckled Pink-A-Boo and 1/2 tbsp SP274 Speckled Hot Tamale onto the same spot on the palette. Mix the two glazes to create a new color. Squeeze out 1 tbsp SP201 Speckled Pink-A-Boo and 1 tbsp SP274 Speckled Hot Tamale onto different parts of the palette.
Using the Script Liner brush with SP201 Speckled Pink-A-Boo, SP274 Speckled Hot Tamale, and the mixed color, apply 3 coats to each strawberry. Allow glaze it dry between coats. Try to evenly space the different colors.
After the glaze is dry to the touch, take the skewer and scrape decorative lines onto each of the strawberries. Do not brush off the glaze crumbs immediately or they can smear onto the platter. Wait for the glaze to dry, then gently brush off the glaze crumbs.
Take AC220 Detailer Tips and 1 oz Bottle and fill the bottle halfway with SC007 Leapin’ Lizard. Use the bottle to make a stem and leaves at the top of each strawberry.
Using the Detail Liner brush with SC015 Tuxedo, loosely outline each strawberry.
Squeeze out Squeeze out 1/2 tbsp SP201 Speckled Pink-A-Boo and 1/2 tbsp SP274 Speckled Hot Tamale onto the same spot on the palette. Mix the two glazes to create a new color again. Using the Soft Fan brush, apply 3 coats to the back of the platter. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out 1 tbsp of SC015 Tuxedo to the palette. Take a pencil and dip the eraser into the glaze. Stamp a circle on the rim of the platter. Repeat to create a border around the front edge of the platter.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Take the scissors and cut out the large set of patterns.
Take one pattern and place it on the matching side of the bird. Slide AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern and trace with the pencil. Repeat for the other side of the bird.
Using the Script Liner with SC-2 Melon-Choly, apply 3 coats to the flowers. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out around 1 tsp of SC-89 Cutie Pie Coral onto the palette. Take the pencil eraser and dip it into the glaze. Stamp the center of one flower. Repeat for each flower.
Using the Script Liner with SC-33 Fruit of the Vine, apply 3 coats to the flat edges of the bird. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Dip into NT-CLR Clear One Dipping.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Small Bird:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Take the scissors and cut out the small set of patterns.
Take one pattern and place it on the matching side of the bird. Slide AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern and trace with the pencil. Repeat for the other side of the bird.
Using the Script Liner with SC-103 Lavendear, apply 3 coats to the flowers. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out around 1 tsp of SC-33 Fruit of the Vine onto the palette. Take the pencil eraser and dip it into the glaze. Stamp the center of one flower. Repeat for each flower.
Using the Script Liner with SC-89 Cutie Pie Coral, apply 3 coats to the flat edges of the bird. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Take the scissors and cut out the large set of patterns.
Take one pattern and place it on the matching side of the bird. Slide AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern and trace with the pencil. Repeat for the other side of the bird.
Take SG-404 Blue and trace over the patterns on both sides of the bird. Allow the lines to dry.
Using the Script Liner with SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue, apply 3 coats to the flat edges of the bird. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Dip into NT-CLR Clear One Dipping.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Small Bird:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Take the scissors and cut out the small set of patterns.
Take one pattern and place it on the matching side of the bird. Slide AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern and trace with the pencil. Repeat for the other side of the bird.
Take SG-404 Blue and trace over the patterns on both sides of the bird. Allow the lines to dry.
Using the Script Liner with SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue, apply 3 coats to the flat edges of the bird. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-122 Malachite, apply 2 coats to the outside of the monstera container. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply 3 coats to the inside. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-137 Black Adventurine, apply 2 coats to the outside of the mushroom container. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply 3 coats to the inside. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-124 Stormy Blue, apply 2 coats to the outside of the sun container. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply 3 coats to the inside. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using an AB710 #3/4 Flat Shader, basecoat the bird with OS483 Real Red. Allow to dry!
Using an DB-802 #5 Round, drybrush the bird with a mix of some OS438 Orange Peel and OS483 Real Red. The highlight the bird with OS438 Orange Peel.
Using an DB-802 #5 Round, drybrush the birds wing and tail highlighting the whittles with OS476 Black.
Using an AB-704 #3 Round, paint in the mask area and the eyes of the bird with OS476 Black.
Using an AB-702 #10/0 Liner, add small feathers around the mask area and detail the eye with OS431 White
Using an AB-704 #3 Round, paint the beak of the bird with OS438 Orange Peel then shade with OS-483 Real Red. Allow to dry!
Using an AB710 #3/4 Flat Shader, apply 2 coats of AC-502 Matte Sealer the bird.
Using an AB-704 #3 Round, apply 2 coats of AC-501 Gloss Sealer to the eyes and beak.
DO NOT FIRE!
MB-1601 Round Whittle Bird – as a Chickadee
Using an AB710 #3/4 Flat Shader, basecoat the bird with OS431 White.
Mix a small amount of OS431White with a couple drops of OS476 Black to make a dark grey. Apply this mix to the wings and tail. Allow to dry!
Add some more OS431 White to the grey mix to make a lighter grey. Using an DB-802 Round, drybrush the wing and tail with the light grey.
Mix a small amount of OS435 Dark Yellow with a drop or two of OS489 Saddle Brown to make a darker yellow. Using an AB-708 #10 Shader, shade under the wings with this mix.
Using an AB-708 #10 Shader, shade around the wings and tail with OS476 Black.
Using an AB-705 #5 Round, apply OS476 Black to the head, upper chest area and the beak of the bird.
Highlight the eye with OS431 White. Allow to dry!
Using an AB710 #3/4 Flat Shader, apply 2 coats of AC-502 Matte Sealer the bird.
Using an AB-704 #3 Round, apply 2 coats of AC-501 Gloss Sealer to the eyes and beak.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Take AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper and lay it over one side of the large bird. Take the corresponding pattern and place on top. Trace over the pattern with the pencil. Repeat for all five sides of the bird (left side, right side, front, top, and back). Repeat for the small bird.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-11 Blue Yonder, SC-12 Moody Blue, SC-27 Sour Apple, SC-74 Hot Tamale and SC-74 Orange-A-Peel, apply 2 coats to the corresponding sections on each bird. Refer to the pattern.
Squeeze out around 1 tsp of SC-12 Moody Blue onto the palette. Use the pencil eraser as a stamp to make dots around the neck and in the tear drops on the small bird. Make dots on the tips of the flower petals on the large bird.
Squeeze out around 1 tsp of SC-75 Orange-A-Peel onto the palette. Use the pencil eraser as a stamp to make dots around the neck of the large bird.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the designs. Add decorative lines.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-702 Celebration, apply 2 coats to each bird. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Pull off two thirds of your pound of clay and separate into two equal sized balls.
Create two equal sized pinch pots from the clay balls and set aside.
Roll a smaller ball for the head.
Create a small triangle of clay.
Roll out a coil for the tail (Mouthpiece and fipple) thicker than your straw.
With the scissors, cut two lengths of straw about an inch and a half and two inches. The longer straw will be the tail and the shorter straw will be the head.
Take one of the pinch pots, flip it upside down, and push the first straw through so it sticks out about halfway.
Do the same with the 2nd straw.
Clean out any clay that is caught in the straws.
With your toothpick, Scratch and attach the two pinch pots together to form a hollow ball with the straws sticking out.
Poke the ball through the shorter straw, remove, score the ball and body where they connect, and reattach. Remove excess clay from straw.
Cut your triangle in half.
Scratch and attach triangles to the ball of the head over the straw poking out.
Carefully poke the longer straw up through the coil.
Leaving about half an inch of clay coil after the straw ends, cut off any excess coil.
Repeat step 2 with the coil to attach.
With the coil attached to the body, take your toothpick and poke down the center of the coil and round out a hole. This should connect to the straw still in the middle of the coil.
Remove excess clay from the hole/straw.
Place your popsicle stick in the hole to where it meets the straw. This provides a flat surface to cut into.
Cut the rounded tip off another popsicle stick and push straight through the clay down into the inserted popsicle stick 3 times forming a “U” shape towards the body of the bird.
The fourth and final cut needs to be made at a 45 degree angle to properly split the airstream to produce a whistle sound.
Note: the above steps can be challenging, especially for younger students. The angles need to be exact to produce the whistling sound. The instructor may wish to complete these steps themselves at the leatherhard stage.Study the colors and patterns of real birds.
Using Mayco Fundamentals Underglazes, apply colors to the birds to mimic what can be found in nature.
Use Mayco’s S2101 Crystal Clear Brushing glaze to strategically darken the color of the underglaze in spots, and cover the tip of the tail where the mouthpiece is. Do not put clear glaze on the bottom of the bird.
Fire to Cone 04.
After firing, fill the whistle with water just to where the neck and tail pieces start to curve up. Blow into the mouthpiece to produce a burbling whistle! Note: The whistle is not water tight and the water will naturally evaporate out of the bird whistle over time.
Pour out extra water after playing.
Variations and Adaptations:
Instead of making the whistle look like a real bird, incorporate patterns or unique design elements from nature.
Besides birds, what other animals can be made using this building technique?
Getting the exact angle for the whistle to work can be tough, especially for younger students. Leave out the sound hole and fill the bird partially with soapy water for a bubble bird.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 Coat of SC-41 Brown Cow to the entire piece. Allow too slightly dry!
Using a BT-910 Synthetic Sponge, wipe bay the SC-41 Brown Cow leaving the color in the crevices. Allow to dry!
Starting in the center of the blanket, using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SP-288 Tu Tu Tango. The next ring of the blanket, apply 3 coats of SP-209 Speckled Jaded.
Next area of the blanket, using a CB-202 #2 Detail Liner, apply the following colors, middle diamond is 3 coats of SC-73 Candy Apple Red. The top and bottom diamond is 3 coats of SC-6 Sunkissed.
The final section of the blanket is 3 coats of SC-13 Grapel.
Using a CB-404 #6 Pointed Round, drybrush 2 coats of SC-73 Candy Apple Red to the tassels. The using a CB-202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 3 coats oof SC-6 Sunkissed to the ties of the tassels.
Using a CB-602 #2 Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 thin coats of SC-46 Rawhide to the face area of the llama excluding the eyes.
Using a CB-602 #2 Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 thin coats of SC-2 Melon-Choly to the inside of the ears. Using a CB-202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 3 coats of SC-2 Melon-Choly to the nose.
Using a Silk Sponge, Highlight the area around the nose and the chin with SC-16 Cotton Tail. Highlight the cheeks with SC-2 Melon-Choly.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, drybrush 1 coat SC-86 Old Lace to the fur. Then highlight the with some SC-16 Cotton Tail.
Using a CB-202 #2 Detail liner, apply 2-3 coats of SC-16 Cotton Tail to the eye area. Apply 3 coats of SC-11 Blue Yonder the iris of the eyes. Shade the iris with SC-12 Moody Blue. Apply 2 coats of SC-15 Tuxedo to the pupil of the eyes.
Outline and detail the eyes with SC-15 Tuxedo. Add a highlight with SC-16 Cotton Tail.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of FN-201 Golden Clear to the entire llama. Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to Cone 06/05.
Form
Clay Magic Mold 4325 Lucy Llama
Colors
FN-201 Golden Clear
SC-2 Melon-Choly
SC-6 Sunkissed
SC-11 Blue Yonder
SC-12 Moody Blue
SC-13 Grapel
SC-15 Tuxedo
SC-16 Cotton Tail
SC-41 Brown Cow
SC-46b Rawhide
SC-86 Old Lace
SP-209 Speckled Jaded
SP-288 Speckled Tu Tu Tango
Decorating Accessories
CB-106 #6 Script Liner
CB-110 #10/0 Liner
CB-202 #2 Detail Liner
CB-404 #6 Pointed Round
CB-602 #2 Soft Fan
CB-604 #4 Soft Fan
Miscellaneous Accessories
Palette
Paper Towels
Water Bowl
BT-910 Synthetic Sponge
Silk Sponge
Water
Low-Fire|Molds|Home Décor
406|408|446
44624
Bright Jungle Gems Chickens with Striped Neck Line
. Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Take the pencil and draw a line going around the neck of each chicken. This will separate the 2 colors.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed (hen 1), SC-27 Sour Apple (hen 2) and SC-97 Cant-elope (rooster), apply 3 coats to the top half of the chickens. Avoid the eyes, beak, waddles, and comb. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 3 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out around 1 tsp SC-15 Tuxedo onto the palette. Dip the pencil eraser in the glaze and stamp onto the eye. This will make the pupil. Repeat for the second eye.
Using the Script Liner with SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, apply 3 coats to the beaks. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-74 Hot Tamale, apply 3 coats to the comb and waddles. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with CG-753 Sassy Orange (hen 2), CG-756 Firecracker (rooster) and CG-987 Tree Frog (hen 1), apply 3 coats to the bottom half of each chicken. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Cut the cardboard into 3 small pieces – around 1.5” squares. You will be using the edge with straight lines, not the corrugated edge.
Squeeze out around 1 TBS of SC-74 Hot Tamale, SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, and SC-16 Cotton Tail onto the palette.
Take 1 cardboard square and dip the straight edge into SC-74 Hot Tamale. Press vertically onto the neck of one of the chickens. It should be centered between the top and bottom colors. Repeat until you go around the neck. Repeat for all chickens.
Repeat Step #11 with a new piece of cardboard and SC-75 Orange-A-Peel.
Repeat Step #11 with a new piece of cardboard and SC-16 Cotton Tail.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Form
MB-1594 1596 Rudy Rooster
MB-1597 Holly Hen
Colors
CG-753 Sassy Orange
CG-756 Firecracker
CG-987 Tree Frog
SC-6 Sunkissed
SC-15 Tuxedo
SC-16 Cotton Tail
SC-27 Sour Apple
SC-74 Hot Tamale
SC-75 Orange-A-Peel
SC-97 Cant-elope
Decorating Accessories
RB-144 #4 Soft Fan
RB-106 #6 Script Liner
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sponge
Water
Pencil
Palette
Cardboard
Scissors
Low-Fire|Earthenware Bisque|Home Décor
406|403|460
44621
Bright Jungle Gems Chickens with French Dimensions
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Take the pencil and draw a wavy line going around the neck of each chicken. This will separate the 2 colors.
Using the Script Liner with SC-77 Glo-Worm, apply 3 coats to the top half of the chickens. Avoid the eyes, beak, waddles, and comb. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 3 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out around 1 tsp SC-15 Tuxedo onto the palette. Dip the pencil eraser in the glaze and stamp onto the eye. This will make the pupil. Repeat for the second eye.
Using the Script Liner with SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 3 coats to the beaks. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-88 Tu Tu Tango, apply 3 coats to the comb and waddles. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using FD-258 Pure White, make a line going around the wavy line separating the top and bottom of the chicken. You can also make decorative feathers on top of the neck area.
Using the Soft Fan with CG-753 Sassy Orange (orange hen), CG-756 Firecracker (red rooster) and CG-987 Tree Frog (green hen), apply 3 coats to the bottom half of each chicken. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with a grapefruit sized ball of low-fire clay.
To make the body of the frog, separate the clay to create a smaller ball, about the size of a clementine. Set aside and cover the rest of the clay.
Create a pinch pot from this smaller ball.
Lay the pinch pot on its side to begin drying. The mouth of the pot will sag into an oblong shape as it firms up.
Using clay set aside, roll a 6-inch coil about the width of a dime and cut into two 3-inch coils with your needle tool to create the front legs of the frog.
Carefully bend gentle arches in the middle of your two coils.
Use your finger to smooth and compress both sides of each arch to alleviate any cracks and to prevent cracking during drying and firing.
Lightly pinch one end of each coil to create flat feet and allow coils to firm up with the arches sitting upright.
Using clay set aside, roll an 8-inch coil about the width of a nickel and cut into two 4-inch coils with your needle tool to create the back legs of the frog.
Repeat steps 6 & 7
Using clay set aside, roll an additional 4-inch coil about the width of a nickel to make the tongue. Gradually flatten your coil with wet fingers and curve the flattened coil into a slope.
Allow the flattened, sloped coil to firm up while laying on its side to prevent the curve from straightening as it dries.
Using clay set aside, create the eyes by rolling two smaller balls of clay. Roll a third, slightly larger ball of clay for the fly.
Assemble your frog in the order it was created. Slip and score with your needle tool to attach the legs to the underside of your pinch pot. Follow by slipping and scoring the tongue into the inside wall. As you firmly join the legs underneath and tongue inside, expect the underside of your pinch pot to flatten a bit.
Slip and score with your needle tool to attach the eyes on top of the body, and fly on top of the tongue. Press the underside of the tongue as you attach the fly to prevent the slope from flattening.
Use a toothpick to create toes by cutting two notches into each foot. Allow your frog to dry slowly under plastic.
Forming the Lily Pad
Slap together all remaining clay and roll into a slab about 1/4” thick.
Use a rib to firmly compress both surfaces of the slab to prevent cracking during drying and firing.
Use your needle tool to cut a circle about 4 ½” in diameter from the slab and cut a wedge from the circle as if cutting a slice of pizza. Run a damp sponge along the cut surfaces to soften sharp edges. Allow your lily pad to dry slowly with your frog under plastic.
Glazing with the Green Frog with Mayco Fundamentals Underglaze.
Apply 2-3 coats of UG-216 Peach to the tongue of the frog using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner brush.
If using clay that is not white, apply 2-3 coats of UG-51 China White to the front of the eyeballs of the frog using the #6 Script Liner.
Apply 2-3 coats of UG-22 Spring Green to the body of the frog using a CB-602 #2 Soft Fan. Switch to a #0 Detail when painting a circle around the eyes of the frog.
Use a CB-200 #0 Detail to apply 2-3 coats of UG-209 Jade as irises in the eyes of the frog, then switch to a #2 Soft Fan and cover both sides of the lily pad with 2-3 coats of the same color.
Apply 2-3 coats of UG-91 True Teal to the inside of the mouth using a #6 Script Liner, switching to a #0 Detail brush to cover the edge where the tongue rests inside the mouth. Dampen a clean sponge and pat the same color around the edges and in the center of the lily pad.
Dampen a clean sponge and pat UG-21 Leaf Green onto the back of the frog, including the backs of the eyes, as well as on the bends of the legs.
Use the back of a brush to apply polka-dots of UG-68 Apple Green on top of the sponged UG-21 Leaf Green on the frog, and on top of the sponged UG-91 True Teal in the center of the lily pad.
Apply 2-3 coats of UG-50 Jet Black with a #6 Script Liner to the body of the fly.
Use the back of a brush to apply two dots of UG-51 China White onto the body of the fly for eyes.
Add pupils into the eyes of the frog and the fly with UG-50 Jet Black using a #0 Detail brush.
Bisque fire both pieces to Cone 04.
Clear Glazing
Dampen a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove debris.
Using a #2 Soft Fan, apply two coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing to all surfaces of both the frog and lily pad.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze out around 2 TBS of SC-15 Tuxedo. Thin with around 2 tsp water. Using the Soft Fan with thinned SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 1 coat to each gnome. Allow glaze to dry.
Take a damp sponge and remove most of the glaze from each gnome, leaving it only in the crevices. Drag the sponge against the direction of the texture so that you don’t remove all of the glaze from the crevices.
Using the Script Liner with EL-125 Sahara Sands, apply 2 coats to the noses and hands. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with EL-101 Oyster Shell, apply 2 coats to the mustaches. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with EL-146 Rain Cloud, apply 2 coats to the beards. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with EL-144 Dark Amethyst, apply 2 coats to the shoes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Refer to below steps to finish each gnome.
High Five Gnome
Using the Soft Fan with EL-128 Wheat, apply 2 coats to the hat. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with EL-130 Sea Green, apply 2 coats to the body. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Hooray Gnome
Using the Soft Fan with EL-142 Grass, apply 2 coats to the hat. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with EL-118 Blue Grotto, apply 2 coats to the body. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Hipster Gnome
Using the Soft Fan with EL-127 Rose Granite, apply 2 coats to the hat. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with EL-149 Lavender Flower, apply 2 coats to the body. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly-fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Take the pencil and draw 2 scalloped lines going around the neck of each chicken. This will separate the 3 colors. If you want wings, draw those on at this time. You can cut out the pattern and trace it on or use your own pattern.
Using the Script Liner with SC-96 Aqu-ward, apply 3 coats to upper portions of the chickens. Avoid the eyes, beak, waddles, and comb. Apply 3 coats to the front sections of the wings. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-9 Jaded, apply 3 coats to the middle portion of the chickens. Apply 3 coats to the back section of the wings. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 3 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out around 1 tsp SC-10 Teal Next Time onto the palette. Dip the pencil eraser in the glaze and stamp onto the eye. This will make the pupil. Repeat for the second eye.
Using the Script Liner with SC-9 Jaded, apply 3 coats to the beaks. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-10 Teal Next Time, apply 3 coats to the comb and waddles. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using FD-258 Pure White, make a line going around the scalloped lines separating the top, middle, and bottom of the chicken. Make a line going around the wings. You can also add decorative lines or dots.
Using the Soft Fan with CG-962 Blue Azure apply 3 coats to the bottom half of each chicken. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan and Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 3 coats to the outside of the container. Try to avoid the raised areas and feet. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use a damp sponge to remove any glaze on the raised sun portion of the container.
Using the Script Liner with CG-753 Sassy Orange, apply 2 coats to the sun. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with CG-756 Firecracker, apply 2 coats to the rays going out from the sun. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with CG-718 Blue Caprice, apply 2 coats to the lines below the sun. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 3 coats to the inside of the container. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 3 coats to the feet. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan and Script Liner with SC-11 Blue Yonder, apply 3 coats to the outside of the container. Try to avoid the raised areas and feet. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use a damp sponge to remove any glaze on the raised leaf portion of the container.
Using the Script Liner with SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 2 coats to the veins and stems on the 2 leaves.
Using the Script Liner with CG-987 Tree Frog, apply 2 coats to the leaves. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-88 Tu Tu Tango, apply 3 coats to the inside of the container. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 3 coats to the feet. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly-fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan and Script Liner with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 3 coats to the outside of the container. Try to avoid the raised areas and feet. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use a damp sponge to remove any glaze on the raised mushroom portion of the container.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 3 coats to the stems of the mushrooms. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-88 Tu Tu Tango, apply 3 coats to the underside of each mushroom head. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with CG-718 Blue Caprice, apply 2 coats to every other mushroom cap. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with CG-753 Sassy Orange, apply 2 coats to the remaining mushroom caps. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 3 coats to the inside of the container. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-88 Tu Tu Tango, apply 3 coats to the feet. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use a moistened sponge to wipe down the bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 3 smooth coats of FN-1 White to the top of the tray using CB-604 Soft Fan.
To the edge, back and feet of the tray apply 3 coats of FN-19 Dark Blue using CB-604 Soft Fan.
Using AC-230 Clay Carbon and a pencil to transfer the design outlines.
On a tile put out some of each of the E-Z Strokes and thin slightly to a creamy consistency using a Pallet Knife. Mix some of the EZ101 Neon Yellow with EZ013 White to create a soft yellow.
Starting with the gill and from the face of the fish paint in the top portion of the gills with the yellow mixture using CB-404 Pointed Round. Streak it in with the curvature of the gills. Fade this as you go up around the eye.
Paint around the eye with some thinned EZ032 Peacock Green shaded with EZ035 Dutch Blue. Add final details around the eye with EZ023 Midnight Blue using CB-110 Liner keeping the lines very fine. Pupil of the eye is darkened with EZ024 Royal Blue Green.
Use the brush loaded with EZ058 Poppy Orange to shade the face and below the eye and add a few spots over the eye as well. Darken the front of the face and a small area under the eye with EZ-057 Coral Red as well as the smaller spots over the eye. Darken the edge and some spots under and over the eye with EZ075 Passion Red.
To the mouth area paint in some EZ032 Peacock Green and darken the upper lip with some EZ035 Dutch Blue and EZ024 Royal Blue Green.
To the body behind the gill area apply some EZ002 Princess Pink and shade with some very thin EZ050 Pueblo Purple. Keep the purple shading light next to the gill area.
To the body of the fish use a lightly moistened Silk Decorating Sponge loaded with EZ032 Peacock Green to pounce in the back and top area. Keep this color somewhat light in the middle of the body. There should be no hard delineation of the color to where the color fades to nothing. The color can be darker towards the back of the fish next to the tail.
Streak in some thin washes of EZ032 to the top and bottom fins. You can apply multiple layers of the washes to darken areas and to indicate the sections to the fins. Darken the front and back areas of the top and bottom fins first with EZ035 Dutch Blue and accent further with EZ023 Midnight Blue. Add some spots of first EZ058 Poppy Orange in the top fin and darken with EZ075 Passion Red. Add some thinned EZ050 Pueblo Purple to the front portion of the lower fin. Shade over the Peacock Green area near the tail fin with some EZ035 Dutch Blue and darken with some EZ023 Midnight Blue. Add some very thin EZ028 Leaf Green color to the lower fin for some variation of color.
To the tail fin paint in some strokes of EZ032 Peacock Green. Leave some white areas. Paint in a couple of spotted areas with EZ058 Poppy Orange and accented with EZ075 Passion Red. Darken the top and bottom edges with some EZ035 Dutch Blue and accented with some EZ023 Midnight Blue.
To create the spots on the body, thin some EZ035 Dutch Blue. Paint in some random spots behind the gills, along the top and lower back portion of the body. After painting the spots of color, take a clean but slightly damp Silk Decorating Sponge and blot the color to lighten the spots if too dark.
Detail the fish in a broken line using CB-110 Liner loaded with EZ023 Midnight Blue. Keep this line very fine and broken.
Mix some EZ018 Chartreuse with some EZ011 Sienna Brown to create an olive color. You can make another portion with a bit of EZ028 Leaf Green to brighten the color. Paint in the bulbous portion of the kelp with the color and shade with the greener mixture. Use the ½” Dagger Brush to paint in the leaves of the kelp loaded with the olive mixture. You can tip the brush with EZ024 Royal Blue Green to create depth and shadows in the kelp when painting. Use the brush to paint in the kelp in a ribbon stroke.
To detail the kelp, use the olive color darkened with some EZ028 Leaf Green and thinned EZ024 Royal Blue Green. Outline the kelp and pods with this darkened color using CB-110 Liner.
Shake and Stir CG-722 Seawind. Pour out a teaspoon full into a shallow dish and wash the glaze from the crystals (like panning for gold.) Add some thinned S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing to the crystals. This mixture should be very thin. Using CB-604 Soft Fan to brush on one thin coat of crystal mixture to the background areas of the pattern dispersing the crystals evenly.
Using a slightly moistened sponge to wipe down the ware. Let dry.
Trace on the pattern outline of the butterfly using a pencil and AC-230 Clay Carbon.
Using FD254 Black Licorice to outline the wings and body of the butterfly including the antennae. Keep the antennae as fine as possible.
Apply 3 coats of FN-205 Saddle Tan to the top wing sections of the butterfly using CB-406-Pointed Round. Try not to get any color on the outlining of the butterfly.
Shade the top wing with SC-50 Orange Ya Happy next to the body fading the color outward using CB-406 Pointed Round.
Shake and stir S-2725 Safari. Apply 2-3 coats to the lower sections of the wings using CB-406 Pointed Round. Apply the crystals kind of heavily to the lower wing sections.
Retrace the detail in the upper wings with AC-230 Clay Carbon and a pencil.
Paint in the detail in the upper wing with SC-15 Tuxedo using CB-110 Liner. One good coat is all that is needed. Fill in the body with 3 coats of SC-15 Tuxedo.
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 05-06.
If needed, plot/sketch out the design in the lower wing with the Red Fine Point Sharpie.
Fill the cup on the Fluid Writer Pen with OG801 Bright Gold. Outline the butterfly. Add a fine line to the antennae. Using your plotted lines in the wing sections, apply a fine line to the detail in the upper and lower wings. Add detail in the body. Clean the Fluid Writer Pen with a Q-Tip and OG901 Essence.
Stilt and Fire to Shelf Cone 018.
Apply 1-2 coats of OS487 Olive Moss to the background. Let dry. Buff with a dry soft cloth.
Using a slightly moistened sponge to wipe down the ware. Let dry.
Trace on the pattern outline of the butterfly using a pencil and AC-230 Clay Carbon.
Using FD254 Black Licorice to outline the wings and body of the butterfly including the antennae. Keep the antennae as fine as possible.
Fill in the body with 3 coats of SC-15 Tuxedo using CB-110 Liner.
Shake and stir S-2718 Cosmic Black. Apply 2-3 coats of glaze to the wings of the butterfly using CB-604 Pointed Round. Apply the crystals kind of heavily. Keep the glaze off the outline of the butterfly.
Shake and stir CG-986 Smoke & Fire. Using CB-406 Pointed Round apply 2-3 coats to the lower wings. Apply the crystals kind of heavy. Keep the color off the outline of the butterfly.
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 05-06.
If needed, plot/sketch out the design in the lower wing with the Red Fine Point Sharpie.
Fill the cup on the Fluid Writer Pen with OG801 Bright Gold. Outline the butterfly. Add a fine line to the antennae. Using your plotted lines in the wing sections, apply a fine line to the detail in the upper and lower wings. Add detail in the body. Clean the Fluid Writer Pen with a Q-Tip and OG901 Essence.
Stilt and Fire to Shelf Cone 018.
Apply 1-2 coats of OS439 Hot Orange to the background using CB-406-Pointed Round and CB-110 Liner. Let dry. Buff with a soft dry cloth.
Using a slightly moistened sponge to wipe down the ware. Let dry.
Trace on the pattern outline of the butterfly using a pencil and AC-230 Clay Carbon.
Using FD254 Black Licorice to outline the wings and body of the butterfly including the antennae. Keep the antennae as fine as possible.
Fill in the body with 3 coats of SC-15 Tuxedo using CB-110 Liner.
Shake and Stir S-2725 Safari. Apply 2-3 coats of glaze to the wings of the butterfly using CB-604 Pointed Round. Apply the crystals kind of heavily. Keep the glaze off the outline of the butterfly.
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 05-06.
If needed, plot/sketch out the design in the lower wing with the Red Fine Point Sharpie.
Fill the cup on the Fluid Writer Pen with OG801 Bright Gold. Outline the butterfly. Add a fine line to the antennae. Using your plotted lines in the wing sections, apply a fine line to the detail in the upper and lower wings. Add detail in the body. Clean the Fluid Writer Pen with a Q-Tip and OG901 Essence.
Stilt and Fire to Shelf Cone 018.
Apply 1-2 coats of OS471 Medium Brown to the background using CB-406-Pointed Round and CB-110 Liner. Let dry. Buff with a soft dry cloth.
Using a slightly moistened sponge to wipe down the ware. Let dry.
Trace on the pattern outline of the butterfly using a pencil and AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper.
Use FD254 Black French Dimensions to outline the wings and body of the butterfly including the antennae. Keep the antennae as fine as possible.
Fill in the body with 3 coats of SC-15 Tuxedo using CB-110 Liner.
Shake and stir CG-983 Koi Pond. Apply 2-3 coats of glaze to wings using CB-604-Pointed Round. Keep the glaze off the butterfly outline. Apply the crystals glaze kind of heavily.
Stilt and Fire to Shelf Cone 05-06.
If needed, plot/sketch out the design in the wings with the Red Fine Point Sharpie.
Fill the cup on the Fluid Writer Pen with OG801 Bright Gold. Outline the butterfly. Add a fine line to the antennae. Using your plotted lines in the wing sections, apply a fine line to the detail in the upper and lower wings. Add detail in the body. Clean the Fluid Writer Pen with a Q-Tip and OG901 Essence.
Stilt and Fire to Shelf Cone 018.
Apply 1-2 coats of OS-458 Wedgewood Blue to the background using CB-406-Pointed Round or CB-110 Liner. Let Dry. Buff with a soft dry cloth.
Begin by wiping down the MB1630 Small Owl Planter with a damp sponge to remove dust.
Apply two coats of FN042 Teal Blue to the feathers around the eyes.
Apply two coats of FN003 Orange to the rings around the eyes, wings, and feet.
Apply two coats of FN054 Pistachio to the body, beak, and eyeballs.
Draw the feather details and any other line work with the wax using the detail liner brush and allow the wax to dry.
Using the Script Liner and Fan brush with EL129 Slate, apply 3 coats over all the FN areas except for the eyes. The first two coats should go right up to the wax lines, but back off the third coat by about a quarter of an inch from the wax lines.
Apply three coats of SC015 Tuxedo to the eyes and add two small dots of SC016 Cotton Tail to the eyes to mimic shine.
Allow glaze to completely dry, stilt, and fire to cone 06.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a 1/2 “ Oval brush CB-425 make 5 circles of PC601 Clear Cascade, in thick “plops” about 1” or a little bigger than a quarter, around the inside of the bowl, ¼” down from the rim, spacing them about 1-2” apart.
When the Clear Cascade is dry on the inside of the bowl, using a RB106 #6 Round, apply 2 thick coats of SC033 Fruit of the Vine in a wavy line over the Clear Cascade, creating a circle.
Once dry apply 5 thick “plops” of PC602 White Cascade in-between the plops of Clear Cascade, over Fruit of the Vine and 5 smaller “plops” around the center of the bowl, on the inside.
Apply 2 thick dots of Fruit of the Vine on the White Cascade “plops” in the center of the bowl.
When the White Cascade is dry on the outside of the bowl, using a RB106 #6 Round, apply 2 thick coats of SC033 Fruit of the Vine in a wavy line over the White Cascade in a circle.
With the RB118 – #6 Round “plop” PC602 White Cascade on the outside of the bowl, inter the rim, leaving space between for PC601 Clear Cascade. Before applying “plops of Clear Cascade, add a way line of SC33 Fruit of the Vine, in a circle over the White Cascade.
Apply “plops” of Clear Cascade over the Fruit of the Vine circle on the outside of the bowl.
Apply 3 coats of SC033 Fruit of the Vine to the entire top rim of the bowl.
Apply 2 coats of SW196 Sand Dollar over the entire inside and outside of the bowl.
Wipe off excess glaze from the bottom of the piece.
Apply 3 flowing coats of white foundations to the entire mushroom. Allow the mushroom to dry for a few minutes.
When the white is dry, place the gecko patterns where you’d like them. Apply as many as you’d like, we did 3 on the cap and 2 on the stem.
Use a ballpoint pen to firmly trace over the lines of the NCR gecko patterns. This will leave light lines on the platter for you to follow.
The exact colors that you use for each gecko do not matter. However, because the colors will overlap and blend, it’s best if the colors that touch each other are colors that mix well together. You can use the rainbow spectrum for guidance: green looks good with either yellow or blue overlapping, Orange looks good with either yellow or pink overlapping etc.
Let’s start with the green color, Cloverfield. Use the script liner to apply 2 coats of Cloverfield wherever you’d like green on the geckos. When applying color to the feet, the thin liner brush may be easier.
Next, we will apply the yellow glaze, Haystack. Apply two coats wherever you’d like the geckos to be yellow. Allow the color to overlap with the green where they meet.
For orange, we will use two coats of Wildfire. Again, allowing it to overlap where it meets any yellow.
Next, we will apply two coats of Peppermint anywhere that we would like pink on the Geckos. Allow the pink to overlap where it meets with any orange.
For the purple, we will use two coats of Purple Reign. Allow the purple to overlap with any pink.
Now, let’s apply two coats of Blue Caprice wherever we would like the Geckos to be blue. Allow the blue to overlap with any green or purple that it comes up against.
If you desire a few more crystals on any of the colors, you can add one more layer on each color. Remember to let the colors overlap where they meet.
Thin down some Tuxedo Stroke & Coat with 50% water to 50% paint. Use the thin liner brush to apply a thin, broken outline around the geckos. Use the photo as inspiration; it looks nice if it’s just a partial outline.
Next, we are going to add the splatters to the platter. To do this, thin down a little bit of each of the colors with 50% water and 50% paint.
We focused on the splatter colors to coordinate with the color of the gecko. For example, if the body of the gecko is yellow, we splattered yellow next to it.
Work one color at a time for the splatter. Dip the round brush into the color. Gently pull the bristles back to flick the paint onto the Mushroom. The splatter will overlap with the geckos and each other, that’s a good thing!
When the mushroom is dry, flip it over and apply 3 flowing coats of white foundations to the bottom.
Sign your name and the date and it’s ready to be fired! Remember, this does not get dipped into clear glaze.
Sketch the snakes on the glass by drawing a wavy line, snaking down one side of the glass. Reverse the snake on the opposite side so that the tail is at the top and the head is at the bottom.
Use a #6 Script Liner to fill in the snake body on the front with 2-3 coats of Cant-elope. Paint the other snake with 2-3 coats of Spruce It Up.
Use a #6 Script Liner and #10 Liner to fill in the background with 2-3 coats of Rawhide.
When the snakes are dry, use a #10 Liner to add a diamond pattern going down the back of the snakes. The Cant-elope snake pattern is Spruce It Up and the Spruce It Up snake pattern is done with Cant-elope. Paint 2-3 coats of color to make sure it’s nice and bold.
Use a #10 liner to add an eye on the snake with 1 thick coat of Rawhide.
Sketch the sideways diamond pattern on the base of the glass.
Use a #6 Script Liner to fill in the pattern alternating between Spruce It Up and Cant-elope.
Use the #6 Script Liner to paint the base of the glass with 2-3 coats of Basketball.
When the base is dry, outline the pattern with 2-3 coats of Bluebeard using the # 10 Liner.
When the snakes are dry, use a #10 Liner to add detail to the snake. 2-3 coats of Basketball stripes on the tail of the snake for rattlers. Eyes, tongue, stars, and outlines with 2-3 coats of Bluebeard.
Use the back of paintbrush to add Bluebeard dots along the body of the snake.
Use the Fan Brush to paint the inside of the glass with 2-3 coats of Dandelion.
Use the eraser of a pencil to dot the rim of the glass with Bluebeard.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Take MC001 Low Tack Masking Tape and place a long piece horizontally down the center of the center of the tray. This will divide the tray into 2 equal halves. Take 2 shorter pieces and place them vertically on the tray. Try to evenly space them so you create 3 equal vertical sections. This will create 6 equal sections on the tray.
Cut out the flower patterns.
Using the Soft Fan with FN001 White, apply 1 coat to the center of each of the 6 sections. Large enough to fit a flower.
Take a flower and dip the back in water. Place in the center of one of the 6 sections. Press the edges with a damp sponge. This will help keep the edges down. Using the Soft Fan with FN001 White, apply 1 coat over the edges of the flower. Repeat for the other 5 flowers.
Squeeze out around 1 TBS of SP209 Speckled Jaded and SP254 Speckled Vanilla Dip onto the palette. Squeeze out ½ TBS of SP209 Speckled Jaded and ½ TBS of SP254 Speckled Vanilla Dip onto the same spot on the palette. Mix to create a third color.
Using the Soft Fan with SP209 Speckled Jaded, apply 2 coats to 2 of the squares. Apply it over the flowers. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SP254 Speckled Vanilla Dip, apply 2 coats to 2 of the remaining squares. Apply it over the flowers. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with your mixed color, apply 2 coats to the remaining 2 squares. Apply it over the flowers. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
After the shine has left the glaze, remove the flowers and tape.
Using the Script Liner with SP209 Speckled Jaded, SP254 Speckled Vanilla Dip, and the mixed color, apply a circle of glaze to the center of each flower. Repeat for a second coat.
Allow glaze to dry.
Using the Soft Fan with FN216 Sea Glass, apply 3 coats to the front and back of the tray. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Tear strips of newspaper to your desired width of the trees.
Dip the paper in water, then apply to the plate, and press down firmly with a paper towel to seal the edges.
Using the CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, starting from the bottom to the top. Apply the following colors and do not wash your brush in between colors, and allowing them to overlap.
Bottom area is CG-979 Meadow, center area is S-2714 Herb Garden and top area is CG-987 Tree Frog.
Remove the paper strips before the color dries to avoid any chipping.
Using the CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SG-202 White Cobblestone.
Using the CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 1 coat of SC-83 Tip Taupe over the Cobblestone.
Using the CB-110 #10/0 Liner, outline and add horizontal lines to the trees to look like tree bark with SC-15 Tuxedo.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Take the pencil and draw the top and bottom lines for the sweater on each bird.
Take MC-002 12mm Low Tack Masking Tape and tape off the top and bottom lines of the sweater so that you can glaze the head and tail first. The tape should be inside the sweater lines.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-5 Tiger Tail, apply 2 coats to the head and tail of each bird. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out around 1 tsp of SC-51 Poo Bear, SC-5 Tiger Tail and SC-25 Crackerjack Brown onto the palette. Take the Script Liner with SC-51 Poo Bear and make random, irregular lines on the head. Make sure lines are going in the same direction. Repeat with SC-5 Tiger Tail and SC-25 Crackerjack brown. Dip the Soft Fan in water and pat dry. Take the soft Fan and brush over your lines of color to blend them together. Do not let your lines of color dry before you blend them. Repeat for the tail. Make sure lines are going in the same direction as the head.
Repeat Step #5 for the second bird.
Remove the tape before glaze is dry. Let glaze dry before moving onto the next step.
Take MC-002 12mm Low Tack Masking Tape and tape over the edge of the head and tail that you just glazed on each bird. You should be able to see the entire sweater on each bird.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-101 Spruce It Up (large bird) and SC-103 Lavendear (small bird), apply 2 coats to the sweaters. Allow glaze to dry.
Take the lace and cut it wide/long enough to wrap around each bird. Do one bird at a time. Lay the bird flat and place the lace over the flat side. Take the Soft Fan and dip it in water. Apply the water over the lace to help it stick to the bird. Repeat going over the back of the bird and work your way over to the other flat side. You might need to cut off some lace to help it lay flat when going over the back. Use the Soft Fan to apply 1 coat of the base color over the lace. Repeat for the second bird.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-10 Teal Next Time (large bird) and SC-33 Fruit of the Vine (small bird), apply 1 coat over the lace. After the glaze is dry to the touch (not bone dry), remove the lace.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Draw small hearts on the paper (3-5). Cut them out. Set them aside for the hat.
Using the Script Liner with SC-54 Vanilla Dip, apply 2 coats to the antlers. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-54 Vanilla Dip, apply 1 coat to the outer portion of the inner ear. Shade to the inside with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo. Repeat for a second coat.
Using the Script Liner with SC-54 Vanilla Dip, apply 1 coat to the muzzle. Shade the inside with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo. Repeat for a second coat.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to the scarf. Apply 2 coats to the area of the hat that you would like the hearts. Allow glaze to dry.
Dip each heart in water and press onto the hat. Only place over the area you glazed in Step #6. Using the Soft Fan with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 1 coat over each heart.
Using MC-001 6mm Low Tack Masking Tape, apply vertical stripes to the scarf.
Using the Script Liner with SC-74 Hot Tamale, apply 2 coats over the scarf. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Remove the tape after glaze is dry to the touch, but not bone dry.
Using the Script Liner with FN-236 Miami Pink, apply 3 coats to the sweater. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-48 Camel Back, apply 2 coats to the fur. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the hooves and nose. Allow glaze to dry between coats. You can also use SC-1 Pink-A-Boo or SC-74 Hot Tamale for the nose.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply any accent dots or lines.
Using the Script Liner and Soft Fan with SP-274 Speckled Hot Tamale, apply 2 coats to the hat. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Remove the hearts with an X-ACTO knife before the glaze is bone dry.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 3 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, apply 3 coats to the beak. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-74 Hot Tamale, apply 3 coats to the waddles and comb. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, make a large dot in the center of each eye.
Using the Script Liner and Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 3 coats to the rest of the rooster. Make sure your coats are not thin, or it could cause problems with the cobblestone (popping off, seeing bisque between the cobbles).
After glaze is dry to the touch, take the pencil, and make a scalloped line going around the neck of the rooster. Using the Detail Liner with AC-302 Wax Resist, apply a coat of wax to the line.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-202 White Cobblestone, apply 3 even coats to the body of the rooster (area below the scalloped border). Apply each coat as soon as the shine is gone. Do not wait until the glaze is completely dry, or it will start to crack and could flake off.
After the last coat from Step #8 is no longer shiny, apply 1 coat of SC-35 Gray Hare using the Soft Fan.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Holly Hen
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 3 coats to the body of the hen and eyes. Make sure your coats are not thin, or it could cause problems with the cobblestone (popping off, seeing bisque between the cobbles).
Using the Script Liner with SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, apply 3 coats to the beak. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-74 Hot Tamale, apply 3 coats to the waddles and comb. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, make a large dot in the center of each eye. Outline the eyes.
After glaze is try to the touch, take the pencil, and make a scalloped line going around the neck of the hen. Using the Detail Liner with AC-302 Wax Resist, apply a coat of wax to the line.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-201 Black Cobblestone, apply 3 even coats to the body of the hen (area below the scalloped border). Apply each coat as soon as the shine is gone. Do not wait until the glaze is completely dry, or it will start to crack and could flake off.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with FN-221 Milk Glass White, apply 3 coats to the fur on the bunny. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with FN-221 Milk Glass White, apply 1 coat to the top half of the inner ear. Use the same brush with FN-236 Miami Pink to blend down to the bottom of the inner ear. Repeat for a total of 3 coats.
Pour out around 1 tsp of FN-236 Miami Pink onto the palette. Dip the sponge in the glaze and sponge the muzzle under the nose.
Using the Script Liner with FN-236 Miami Pink, apply 3 coats to the nose and buttons. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner and Soft Fan with FN-237 Light Turquoise, apply 3 coats to the overalls. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with FN-207 Orange Slice, apply 3 coats to the carrot. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with FN-216 Sea Glass, apply 3 coats to the end of the carrot. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan and Script Liner with FN-232 Sun Yellow, apply 3 coats to the hat. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
After the hat is dry, use the pencil to draw a simple flower on the hat.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to the flower petals. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with FN-207 Orange Slice, make a dot in the center of the flower.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the pencil to draw a jagged line going around the base of the neck. This will separate the top and bottom colors on the rooster.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-130 Sea Green, apply 3 coats to the bottom half of the rooster. Make random, irregular strokes around the neckline, so that there won’t be a distinct border between the top and bottom.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-101 Oyster Shell, apply 3 coats to the top half of the rooster. Overlap the glaze on the bottom half by around 1 inch. Make random, irregular strokes around the neckline, so that there won’t be a distinct border between the top and bottom.
Use an X-ACTO knife or damp sponge to remove any glaze from the eyes, beak, waddles and comb.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 3 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with EL-143 Cactus Flower, apply 3 coats to the beak. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Line with EL-127 Rose Granite, apply 3 coats to the comb and waddles. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil to draw pupils in the eyes. Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the pupils. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Use the Detail Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail to apply a dot to each pupil.
Cut out 4 small square of cardboard. Around 1.5” on each side. You will be using the side with only straight lines (not the corrugated side).
Pour out around 1 TBS of EL-101 Oyster Shell, EL-130 Sea Green, PC-601 Clear Cascades, and PC-602 White Cascades onto the palette.
Take your piece of cardboard and dip one of the edges with straight lines into PC-602 White Cascades. Stamp around the neck of the rooster, where the 2 glazes overlap. Continue dipping and stamping until you go completely around the neck.
Repeat Step #12 with EL-130 Sea Green. Make sure to stamp over some of the glaze from Step #12. Use a different piece of cardboard.
Repeat Step #12 with EL-101 Oyster Shell. Make sure to stamp over some of the glaze from Step #12 and Step #13. Use a different piece of cardboard.
Repeat Step #12 with PC-601 Clear Cascades. Make sure to stamp over some of the glaze from Step #12, #13, and #14. Use a different piece of cardboard.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Holly Hen
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the pencil to draw a jagged line going around the base of the neck. This will separate the top and bottom colors on the hen.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-118 Blue Grotto, apply 3 coats to the bottom half of the hen. Make random, irregular strokes around the neckline, so that there won’t be a distinct border between the top and bottom.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-101 Oyster Shell, apply 3 coats to the top half of the hen. Overlap the glaze on the bottom half by around 1 inch. Make random, irregular strokes around the neckline, so that there won’t be a distinct border between the top and bottom.
Use an X-ACTO knife or damp sponge to remove any glaze from the eyes, beak, waddles and comb.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 3 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with EL-143 Cactus Flower, apply 3 coats to the beak. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with EL-127 Rose Granite, apply 3 coats to the comb and waddles. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil to dry pupils in the eyes. Using the Script Lien with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the pupils. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Use the Detail Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail to apply a dot to each pupil.
Cut out 4 small square of cardboard. Around 1.5” on each side. You will be using the side with only straight lines (not the corrugated side).
Pour out around 1 TBS of EL-101 Oyster Shell, EL-118 Blue Grotto, PC-601 Clear Cascades, and PC-602 White Cascades onto the palette.
Take your piece of cardboard and dip one of the edges with straight lines into PC-602 White Cascades. Stamp around the neck of the hen, where the 2 glazes overlap. Continue dipping and stamping until you go completely around the neck.
Repeat Step #12 with EL-118 Blue Grotto. Make sure to stamp over some of the glaze from Step #12. Use a different piece of cardboard.
Repeat Step #12 with EL-101 Oyster Shell. Make sure to stamp over some of the glaze from Step #12 and Step #13. Use a different piece of cardboard.
Repeat Step #12 with PC-601 Clear Cascades. Make sure to stamp over some of the glaze from Step #12, #13, and #14. Use a different piece of cardboard.
Begin with properly-fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 2 coats to the veins on both leaves. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-88 Tu Tu Tango, apply 2 coats to one leaf. Using the Script Liner with SC-9 Jaded, apply 2 coats to the other leaf. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 2 coats to the feet on the bottom of the container. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 2 coats to the inside of the container. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-203 Dry Champagne, apply 3 coats to the outside of the container and 1 coat to the inside. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 2 coats to the underside of each mushroom cap. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 2 coats to each mushroom stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-9 Jaded, apply 2 coats to every other mushroom cap. Apply SC-27 Sour Apple to the remaining mushroom caps. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Take AC-220 Detailer Tips and 1oz Bottles (2) and cut the very end of the tips off. Fill one bottle with around 1/2oz of SC-6 Sunkissed. Fill the other bottle with around 1/2oz of SC-97 Cant-elope. Use the two bottles to make dots on the mushroom caps.
Using the Script Liner with SC-88 Tu Tu Tango, apply 2 coats to the feet on the bottom of the container. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 2 coats to the inside of the container. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-203 Dry Champagne, apply 3 coats to the outside of the container and 1 coat to the inside. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 2 coats to the rays above the sun. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-88 Tu Tu Tango, apply 2 coats to the sun. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-9 Jaded, apply 2 coats to top and bottom line below the sun. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 2 coats to the middle line below the sun. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Take AC-220 Detailer Tips and 1oz Bottles (1) and cut the very end of the tip off. Fill the bottle with around 1/2oz of SC-97 Cant-elope. Use the bottle to make dots on the rays above the sun.
Using the Script Liner with SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 2 coats to the feet on the bottom of the container. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 2 coats to the inside of the container. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-203 Dry Champagne, apply 3 coats to the outside of the container and 1 coat to the inside. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using a round brush, apply 2 coats of Spanish Moss to the center of the flower.
When the center of the flower is dry, use a fanbrush to apply 2 flowing coats of Amber Ash all over the inside of the flower dish; both the petals and center of the flower.
When the inside if the dish is dry, use a fan brush to apply 2 flowing coats of Rose Granite to the petals.
When the front of the dish is dry, flip it over and apply 2 flowing coats of Amber Ash to the back of the dish.
After the back of the dish is dry, apply 2 flowing coats of Rose Granite to the back of the dish.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper onto the front of the tile. Place the pattern on top and trace the pattern. Remove paper and pattern.
Using the Script Liner with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 2 coats to the center of the flower. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-24 Dandelion, apply 2 coats to flower petals. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-11 Blue Yonder, apply 2 coats to the background. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
The following steps will use a Q-Tip to make the color variation and texture. You will dip the Q-Tip into the glaze and make a short, quick motion to add a heavy, short line of color. Re-dip the Q-Tip after a couple strokes. If the Q-Tip starts unraveling, use scissors to cut off the excess cotton.
Squeeze around 1 TSP of SC-11 Blue Yonder, SC-24 Dandelion, SC-25 Crackerjack Brown, SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, and SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue onto the palette.
Dip the Q-Tip into SC-25 Crackerjack Brown and make arched lines around the edge of the center of the flower. Bring them towards the center. Then dip the Q-Tip into SC-24 Dandelion and continue making arched lines to the center. Go back over some of the brown lines.
Dip the Q-Tip into SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue and make lines in the background. Start at the edges of the flower petals and work outward. Then dip the Q-Tip into SC-11 Blue Yonder and continue to the edge of the tile.
Dip the Q-Tip into SC-25 Crackerjack Brown and make lines around the base and edges of the flower petals. Then dip the Q-Tip into SC-75 Orange-A-Peel and make lines in the center of the petals. Go back over some of the brown lines and extend into the background. Dip the Q-Tip into SC-24 Dandelion and go over the edges of the petals and extend into the background.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 2 coats to the front and sides of the tile. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
As soon as glaze is dry to the touch, place the mushroom pattern on the front of the tile. Trace over the pattern with the pencil. You should be able to see a faint line in the glaze. Don’t press down so hard that you start to see bisque. Remove the pattern.
Using the Detail Liner with AC-302 Wax Resist, trace over the pattern on the front of the tile.
Using the Script Liner with EL-128 Wheat, apply 1 coat to the bottom of the mushroom head and stem.
Using the Script Liner with EL-127 Rose Granite, apply 1 coat to the top of the mushroom head.
Using the Script Liner with EL-130 Sea Green, apply 1 coat to the background.
Repeat Steps 5-7.
Repeat Steps 5-7, but only apply the glaze to the center portion of each section (the inner area ¼” from the edge of each section). It does not have to be exact, just do not glaze right next to the wax line.
With a damp sponge, wipe SB-126 Ramekin to remove dust.
Apply 2 coats of SW-196 Sand Dollar to inside and out.
Apply 2 coats of SW-191 Peppered Plum to the sides of the inside of the ramekin, leaving an unglazed area in the middle.
Apply 2 coats of SW-190 Passion Flower to the center of the ramekin, overlapping a small portion of SW-191 Peppered Plum.
Apply SW-191 Peppered Plum to the outside rim of the ramekin. Use caution applying the crystal glazes on the outside of the ramekin, as they will flow and move. Application should be on the rim only.
Cast the snowman mold in the usual manor. While still leather hard, punch out different shape stars and holes in the hat. Clean the greenware and fire to shelf cone 04.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using an CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of SC-34 Down To Earth to the tree trunk and snowman arms. Allow to dry! With a damp sponge, wipe back leaving the color in the crevices.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, Apply 1 coat of SC-8 Just Froggy to the tree and the garland over the door. Allow to dry! With a damp sponge, wipe back leaving the color in the crevices.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SC-48 Camel Back to the tree trunk.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SC-25 Crackerjack Brown to the arms of the snowman.
Using a CB-425 ½” Oval Glaze, apply 1 coat of SC-52 Toad-ily Green then 1 coat of SC-26 Green Thumb. Do the same to the garland using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner.
Using a CB-202 #2 Detail, apply 2 coats of SC-74 Hot Tamale to the berries on the garland.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC-16 Cotton tail to the body of the snowman. Allow to dry!
Sponge the cheeks with SC-2 Melon-choly with some SC-16 Cotton tail to lighten.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, Shade the snowman body and the snow base with SC-11 Blue Yonder.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC-9 Jaded to the scarf and the center part of the hat.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, shade the scarf and the center part of the hat with SC-10 Teal Next Time.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC-74 Hot Tamale to the brim of the hat and the door.
Mix a couple drops of SC-15 Tuxedo to a small amount of SC-74 Hot Tamale to darken it. Apply 1 coat to the ball on the top of the hat. Wipe back with a damp sponge. Allow to dry, then apply 2 light coats of SC-74 Hot Tamale to the ball. Also shade the brim of the hat and the door with this mix.
Using a CB-202 #2 Detail, apply 3 coats of SC-83 Tip Taupe to the step, windowsill, and the stones on top of the window.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, shade the step, windowsill, and the stone on top of the window with SC-48 Camel Back.
Using a CB-202 #2 Detail, apply 3 coats of SC-97 Cant-elope to the nose then shade with SC-48 Camel Back.
Using a CB-202 #2 Detail, apply 2 coats of SC-11 Blue Yonder to the iris of the eyes. When Dry, apply 2 coats of SC-15 Tuxedo to the pupil of the eyes.
Using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, outline the eyes, add eyelashes, trim the mouth, and trim the door with SC-15 Tuxedo. Add a highlight of SC-16 Cotton Tail to the eyes.
Using a CB-425 ½” Oval Glaze, dab SG-302 Snowfall to the tree, hat, scarf windowsill and the snow base. Allow to dry!
Using the Soft Fan with SW-301 Iron Wash, apply 1 coat over the raised message portion on the mug. Wipe off most of the wash using a damp sponge. Try not to wipe off any of the wash going around the border of the message section.
Pour out around 1/2 TBS of SG-401 Black onto the palette. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or designer liner.
Take DSS-0128 The Farm Screen and find the barn. Draw a border around the screen with the permanent marker. Cut it out.
Place the screen shiny side down towards the bottom of the message section. While holding the screen firmly in place, scoop a small amount of premixed silkscreen medium onto the squeegee and pull across the screen. Remove the screen.
Use the pencil to write lettering on the message section of the mug. Use the Detail Liner with SG-401 Black to trace over your lettering.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-118 Sea Salt, apply 2 coats to the outside of the mug. Do not glaze over the message section. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-166 Norse Blue, apply 2 coats to the outside of the mug. Do not glaze over the message section. Recede the 2nd coat around 1/4” from the bottom of the mug to prevent dripping. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with PC-602 White Cascade, apply ½” band going around the top of the mug.
Fill AC-220 Detailer Tips and 1 oz Bottles with SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue. You only need to fill the bottle ¼ full. Make dots going around the rim of the mug, right over the pottery cascades.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-508 Black Gloss, apply 3 coats to the inside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 6.
Thumbler
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-155 Winter Wood, apply 2 coats to the outside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-165 Lavender Mist, apply 2 coats to the outside of the mug. Recede the 2nd coat around 1/4” from the bottom of the mug to prevent dripping. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with PC-602 White Cascade, apply ½” band going around the top of the mug.
Fill AC-220 Detailer Tips and 1 oz Bottles with SC-2 Melon-Choly. You only need to fill the bottle ¼ full. Make dots going around the rim of the mug, right over the pottery cascades.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-508 Black Gloss, apply 3 coats to the inside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 6.
Joe Mug
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-166 Norse Blue, apply 2 coats to the outside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-180 Desert Dusk, apply 2 coats to the outside of the mug. Recede the 2nd coat around 1/4” from the bottom of the mug to prevent dripping. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with PC-602 White Cascade, apply ½” band going around the top of the mug.
Fill AC-220 Detailer Tips and 1 oz Bottles with SC-75 Orange-A-Peel. You only need to fill the bottle ¼ full. Make dots going around the rim of the mug, right over the pottery cascades.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-508 Black Gloss, apply 3 coats to the inside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Take the pattern and cut around “Carrots for the Reindeer” to get rid of the excess paper. Place the pattern on the far-right side of the plate. Slide AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern. Trace with a pencil.
On the DSS-0162 Holiday Icons screen, locate the reindeer. Cut it out with excess screen around the edges. Color over the shiny side of the screen with the dry erase marker. Wipe off with a piece of paper towel. You should be able to see the reindeer.
Pour around 2 TBS of NT-BR Clear One Brushing onto the palette. Add a few drops of food coloring. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or glaze.
Place the reindeer screen on the bottom-left section of the plate. While holding the screen firmly in place, take a small amount of premixed silkscreen medium, and gently rub in circles starting in the center and working outward. Remove the screen, rinse, and dry it.
Using the Script Liner with SC-25 Crackerjack Brown, SC-46 Rawhide, and SC-48 Camel Back, apply 2 coats of glaze to the corresponding screened area. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze around 2 TBS of SC-15 onto the palette. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or glaze.
Repeat step #5. Make sure to line up the screen. You will be rescreening the same image in black.
Cut the carrot out from the pattern. Take it and place it along the lip of the plate. Trace around the pattern with a pencil. Repeat until you have a border of carrots going around the plate.
Using the Script Liner with SC-23 Jack O’Lantern, apply 2 coats to each carrot. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 2 coats to carrot tops. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the carrots and the lettering.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-73 Candy Apple Red, apply 2 coats to the back and rim of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-704 Peppermint, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate and 1 coat to the back. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 06.
Santa Plate
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Take the pattern and cut around “Cookies for Santa” to get rid of the excess paper. Place the pattern on the far-left side of the plate. Slide AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern. Trace with a pencil.
On the DSS-0162 Holiday Icons screen, locate the Santa. Cut him out with excess screen around the edges. Color over the shiny side of the screen with the dry erase marker. Wipe off with a piece of paper towel. You should be able to see the Santa.
Pour around 2 TBS of NT-BR Clear One Brushing onto the palette. Add a few drops of food coloring. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or glaze.
Place the Santa screen on the bottom-right section of the plate. While holding the screen firmly in place, take a small amount of premixed silkscreen medium, and gently rub in circles starting in the center and working outward. Remove the screen, rinse, and dry it.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-27 Sour Apple, SC-46 Rawhide, and SC-73 Candy Apple Red, apply 2 coats of glaze to the corresponding screened area. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze around 2 TBS of SC-15 onto the palette. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or glaze.
Repeat step #5. Make sure to line up the screen. You will be rescreening the same image in black.
Cut the tree out from the pattern. Take it and place it along the lip of the plate. Trace around the pattern with a pencil. Repeat until you have a border of trees going around the plate.
Using the Script Liner with SC-46 Rawhide, apply 2 coats to each tree. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-26 Green Thumb, apply 2 coats to the inner triangle on each tree. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-25 Crackerjack Brown, apply 2 coats to the inner square on each tree trunk. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the trees and the lettering.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-73 Candy Apple Red, apply 2 coats to the back and rim of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-704 Peppermint, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate and 1 coat to the back. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use a moistened Synthetic Sponge to wipe down the piece to remove any dust and debris from the ware.
To the interior of the Casserole apply 3 coats of SW-501 White using CB-604 Soft Fan. Use a moistened Synthetic Sponge to remove any glaze on the top edge of the Casserole. Let dry.
Find the center of the Casserole using a ruler. Cut out the pattern for ease of transferring. Use Blue Masking Tape to adhere the design while transferring. Use AC-230 Clay Carbon and a Pencil to transfer the design.
On a tile squeeze out some SG-401 Black Designer Liner and thin slightly with water to a brushing consistency. Using CB-110 Liner loaded with color to complete the lines in the pattern. To the sections of the pattern that has a dotted background apply the dots using the Liner brush. Keep the dots small and random to fill in the area.
Apply 2 coats of SC-28 to all the circles/dots, small triangles in bottom of flower and top band of zigzags in middle of flower using CB-110 Liner. Refer to photo for placement.
Apply 2 coats of SC-52 Toad-ily Green to the inner portions of the leaves using CB-110 Liner.
On a tile place some SW-304 Copper Wash and thin to a 0% skim milk consistency. Apply 1 coat to the outer sections in the leaves using CB-110 Liner.
To the remaining portions of the flower excluding the dotted areas, apply 2-3 coats of SW-134 Eggplant using CB-110 Liner.
Use a pencil to draw a line about ¼” from the bottom of the Casserole. This will be your bottom edge for not glazing.
Using CB-604 Soft Fan apply 3-4 coats of SW-134 Eggplant to the top edge and sides of the Casserole while not going past your pencil line. Let dry.
Use a moistened Synthetic Sponge to remove any glaze from the bottom of the ware. Check to make sure the glaze doesn’t extend past your pencil line around the bottom edge.
Place the ware into the kiln making sure the edge of the Casserole doesn’t align with a kiln element and make sure the ware is fully placed on the shelf with no overhanging of the ware. Do not stilt.
Fire to Shelf Cone 6 (Mid-range) with a 5 min hold.
Wipe down the greenware with a damp Silk Decorating Sponge to remove any dust from the ware. Check the inside for any debris as well.
Pour out some UG-51 China White and UG82 Tucson Turquoise into separate Plastic Cups. Apply 1 even coat of UG-51 China White starting at the bottom edge of the can working to the top edge using CB-604 Soft Fan. Tip one corner of the Soft Fan brush with UG-82 Tucson Turquoise and apply the color from the top edge downward using large “X” crisscross strokes to wet blend the color about 1/3 of the way down from the top rim edge. The color should be darkest next to the top edge and fade out to white. Repeat this step two more times. By the third coat the can should appear a light turquoise blue starting at the top rim fading downward to white. The blue area should be a soft mottling of color that fades into white from the top third of the can. Let dry.
Using a pencil and AC-230 Clay Carbon to trace the pattern. This is only a guide. No detail of the grass area needs to be filled in.
Trace the egg shapes onto the Shirt Cardboard using the Fine Tip Sharpie. Cut out the egg shapes allowing about 1/2” border around the edge using the Scissors. Save both pieces of the egg shapes. This will give you a positive and negative egg shape. Negative shape will be used to paint in the egg shape. The positive will be used to block out a previous egg shape.
The basic painting of the pattern is completed using a Silk Decorating Sponge. This type of sponge will give you the finest texture of any sponge. Loading of the sponge is done by first moistening the sponge. Then loading of the sponge with color is done by tipping the edge of the sponge with color and then pouncing up and down to blend the color before painting. Start with the largest egg (Pink) and then completing the eggs to the left and finally the egg to the right of the pink egg. Make sure you let each coat dry before adding another coat or shading. Doing so before the first coat has dried will lead to removing the previous coat of color. When adding shading to an egg, start the pouncing of color on the edge of the stencil and moving inward. This will give you a gradation to the shading. If you color isn’t dark enough, let it dry and re-sponge an area. Use masking tape to secure the stencil to the ware but never over the EZ-Strokes areas painted. When you are painting one egg and need to block a previous painted egg, place the positive egg shape down first and then the negative over to complete the painting of an egg.
Pink Egg: Mix equal parts EZ-030 Rose with EZ-013 White. White will help opacify any color. Sponge on one coat of color. Do not completely fill in the bottom edge of any egg when sponging. Shading is done with a mixture of EZ-030 Rose with a drop or two of EZ-057 Coral Red.
Yellow Egg: Mix equal parts of EZ-101 Neon Yellow with EZ-013 White. Sponge on one coat. Apply a second coat of EZ-101, let dry and shade with EZ-034 Orange.
Blue Egg: Sponge on EZ-027 Blue Turquoise. Shade with EZ-035 Dutch Blue.
Purple Egg: Sponge on EZ-030 Rose. Shade with EZ-050 Plum Purple.
Green Egg: Mix equal parts EZ-028 Leaf Green with EZ-013 White and sponge on one coat. Shade with EZ-028.
To the ground area, sponge on EZ-018 Chartreuse with some shading of EZ-038 Mahogany around the bottom edges of the eggs. Color should be slightly brown up along the bottom edge of the eggs fading down to Chartreuse to the bottom of the can. Shading is done with the various “grass” stencils. You can use either side of the stencil as long as no wet color is on it. Shading is done with EZ-033 Ivy Green, EZ-024 Royal Blue Green and EZ-038 Mahogany. Use the Royal Blue Green and Mahogany in moderation when doing the shading. Use those colors when a sharp contrast is needed to distinguish the grass blades or over a darker color.
Detail the grass with thinned EZ-033 Ivy Green and EZ-024 Royal Blue Green using CB-101 Liner
Use CB-110 Liner to paint in the Lady Bugs with EZ-057 Coral Red. Detail with EZ-037 Black.
Apply 3 coats of UG-19 to the top trim and edge of can, bottom edge trim and bottom as well as the side grommets using CB-106 Script Liner,CB-404 Pointed Round and CB-604 Soft Fan.
Fire to Shelf Cone 04.
Check the inside of the can for any fired debris before glazing. Thin some S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing to a melted ice cream consistency. Pour the thinned glaze into the can. While working quickly, rotate the piece to cover the interior of the can. Pour out excess and drain upside down to dry.
Apply 2-3 coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing to the outside of the can using CB-604 Soft Fan.
Stilt and fire the piece to Shelf Cone 05-06.
Form
CD1404 Gallon Paint Can, Greenware
Colors
EZ013 White
EZ018 Chartreuse
EZ024 Royal Blue Green
EZ027 Blue Turquoise
EZ028 Leaf Green
EZ30 Rose
EZ034 Orange
EZ035 Dutch Blue
EZ037 Black
EZ038 Medium Mahogany
EZ050 Plum Purple
EZ057 Coral Red
EZ101 Neon Yellow
UG-19 Ultra Blue
UG-82 Tucson Turquoise
UG-51 China White
S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing
Decorating Accessories
CB-106 Script Liner
CB-110 Liner
CB-604 Soft Fan
AC-230 Clay Carbon
Miscellaneous Accessories
Pencil
Scissors
Thin Slick Cardboard (Post Card Thickness, Ad Flyer Mailers)
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place pieces on a couple layers of paper towels.
Basecoat each piece with SS-138 Flat Black. Allow to dry!
Mix MM-102 Copper Metallic well. Apply 1 coat of MM-102 Copper Metallic to the wings, face, hands, and legs. Allow to dry! Apply a second of MM-102 Copper Metallic to the wings, face, hands, and legs. While the MM-102 Copper Metallic is still wet, apply the MM-202 Green Patina with an AB-710 ¾ Flat Shader. In about 10-20 minutes you will start to see the Patina action starting.
Mix MM-106 Steel Metallic by stirring and shaking well.
For the dress and shoes, you can either put on 1 coat of the MM-106 Steel Metallic, let it dry then apply a 2nd coat, while the 2nd coat is still wet apply the MM-305 Rapid Rust with an AB-710 ¾” Flat Shader. Or you can put some MM-106 Steel Metallic in a small cup then add some MM-305 Rapid Rust, mix well then apply 2-3 coats to the dress and shoes.
Allow to dry!
Using an AB-710 ¾” Flat Shader, apply 2 coats of AC-502 Matte Brush-on Sealer. Allow to dry!
Using an DB-804 #3 Flat, drybrush the wings, face, hands, and legs with MM-102 Copper Metallic.
Using an DB-804 #3 Flat, drybrush the hair with MM-104 Dark Bronze Metallic then with MM-1005 Gold Metallic. Also, drybrush the bottom edge of the dress, the collar, and the cuffs with the MM-105 Gold Metallic.
Using an AB-705 #5 Round, apply 2-3 coats of MM-105 Gold Metallic to the Angle with the heart.
Using a Stylus Tool, apply dots to create a 5-petal flower at the bottom of the Heart Angle with SS-317 Turquoise, highlight with SS-135 White. Also apply SS-137 Turquoise dots around the Collar and cuffs of the dress.
Using a Stylus Tool, apply dots to create a 5-petal flower at the bottom of the Open Arms Angle with SS-183 Rich Peach, highlight with SS-135 White. Also apply SS-183 Rich Peach dots around the collar and cuffs of the dress.
Using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, paint stems and leaves with SS-376 Limeburst.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place the pattern over a piece of AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper. Cut around the pattern so that it will be small enough to fit on the app plate. You should end up with the pattern and a matching piece of clay carbon paper.
Keep the clay carbon paper under the pattern and place onto the app plate. Trace the pattern with a pencil. Remove the pattern and clay carbon paper. You should be able to see the pattern on the bisque.
Using the Script Liner with SC-37 Ivory Tower, apply 3 coats to the whipped cream on the pie. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-51 Poo Bear, apply 3 coats to the crust. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-50 Orange Ya Happy, apply 3 coats to the top of the pie. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-23 O’Lantern, apply 3 coats to the side of the pie. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the pie and lettering.
Using the Soft Fan with NT-BR Clear One Brushing, apply 2 coats over flat portion on the front of the app plate. The area with the design. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 3 coats to the back and rim of the app plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-703 Autumn, apply 2 coats to the sides and handle on the front of the app plate. If you would like, you can brush some of the specks from the sides down towards your design. (Note: if you would like to go over your design with SG-703 Autumn, skip Step #9. Then apply 2 coats of SG-703 Autumn to the entire front of the app plate.)
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Apple Plate
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place the pattern over a piece of AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper. Cut around the pattern so that it will be small enough to fit on the app plate. You should end up with the pattern and a matching piece of clay carbon paper.
Keep the clay carbon paper under the pattern and place onto the app plate. Trace the pattern with a pencil. Remove the pattern and clay carbon paper. You should be able to see the pattern on the bisque.
Using the Script Liner with SC-55 Yella Bout It, apply 3 coats to the apples in the pie filling. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-42 Butter Me Up, apply 3 coats to the filling around the apples. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-5 Tiger Tail, apply 3 coats to the top of the crust. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-25 Crackerjack Brown, apply 3 coats to the sides of the crust. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the pie and lettering.
Using the Soft Fan with NT-BR Clear One Brushing, apply 2 coats over flat portion on the front of the app plate. The area with the design. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 3 coats to the back and rim of the app plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-703 Autumn, apply 2 coats to the sides and handle on the front of the app plate. If you would like, you can brush some of the specks from the sides down towards your design. (Note: if you would like to go over your design with SG-703 Autumn, skip Step #9. Then apply 2 coats of SG-703 Autumn to the entire front of the app plate.)
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Pecan Plate
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place the pattern over a piece of AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper. Cut around the pattern so that it will be small enough to fit on the app plate. You should end up with the pattern and a matching piece of clay carbon paper.
Keep the clay carbon paper under the pattern and place onto the app plate. Trace the pattern with a pencil. Remove the pattern and clay carbon paper. You should be able to see the pattern on the bisque.
Using the Script Liner with SC-51 Poo Bear, apply 3 coats to the crust. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-5 Tiger Tail, apply 3 coats to the filling. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-25 Crackerjack Brown, apply 3 coats to the top of the pie. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Take the pattern and place it back over the pie. Gently trace over the pecans on the top of the pie. Check to make sure you can see a faint line in the glaze. Do not press hard enough to go down to the bisque. Remove the pattern.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the pie, lettering, and pecans. Add an irregular, double line going down the center of each pecan.
Using the Soft Fan with NT-BR Clear One Brushing, apply 2 coats over flat portion on the front of the app plate. The area with the design. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 3 coats to the back and rim of the app plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-703 Autumn, apply 2 coats to the sides and handle on the front of the app plate. If you would like, you can brush some of the specks from the sides down towards your design. (Note: if you would like to go over your design with SG-703 Autumn, skip Step #9. Then apply 2 coats of SG-703 Autumn to the entire front of the app plate.)
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Turkey Plate
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place the pattern over a piece of AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper. Cut around the pattern so that it will be small enough to fit on the app plate. You should end up with the pattern and a matching piece of clay carbon paper.
Keep the clay carbon paper under the pattern and place onto the app plate. Trace the pattern with a pencil. Remove the pattern and clay carbon paper. You should be able to see the pattern on the bisque.
Using the Script Liner with SC-51 Poo Bear, SC-50 Orange Ya Happy, and SC-87 Ruby Slippers, apply 3 coats to the feathers. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-25 Crackerjack Brown, apply 3 coats to the body. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-48 Camel Back, apply 3 coats to the top of the wing. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-74 Orange-A-Peel, apply 3 coats to the beak. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-74 Hot Tamale, apply 3 coats to the snood hanging from the turkey’s beak. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze around 1oz of SC-16 Cotton Tail into AC-220 Detailer Tips and 1oz Bottles. Use the bottle to make white lines or dots on the feathers.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the turkey and lettering.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 3 coats to the back and rim of the app plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with NT-BR Clear One Brushing, apply 1 coat over the front of the app plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-703 Autumn, apply 1 coat over the front of the app plate. (Note: If you would like more dots of color, skip Step #12. Then apply 2 coats of SG-703 Autumn to the entire front of the app plate.)
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze out 1 tbsp. of SC-53 Purple Haze and 1 tbsp. of SC-16 Cotton Tail onto the palette and thoroughly mix. Thin with around 1 tsp. of water. Use the Soft Fan to apply 1 coat to the outside of the container.
Using a damp sponge, wipe the outside of the container until most of the glaze is gone, leaving it only in the crevices.
Pour out around 1 TBS of FN-209 Floral Pink and 1 TBS FN-212 Blue Diamond onto the palette and thoroughly mix. Add 2 TBS NT-BR Clear One Brushing and thoroughly mix. Use the Soft Fan to apply 3 coats to the outside of the container.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 3 coats to the inside of the container. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Using the Mother of Pearl Brush with OG-803 MOP Brush-On, apply 1 coat to the outside of the container. Apply a thin, even coat using a circular motion.
Fire to cone 020.
Flourish Container:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze out 1 tbsp. of SC-23 Jack O’Lantern and 1 tbsp. of SC-16 Cotton Tail onto the palette and thoroughly mix. Thin with around 1 tsp. of water. Use the Soft Fan to apply 1 coat to the upper and lower sections of the container with the scrolls.
Using a damp sponge, wipe the outside of the container until most of the glaze is gone, leaving it only in the crevices.
Use the scissors to cut a square around the pattern. Place the pattern on the center of the container. Slide the clay carbon paper under the pattern and trace the pattern with the pencil.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 1 coat to the traced pattern. You can also make your own pattern if you would like a different saying on your container. Allow glaze to dry.
Pour out around 1 tbsp. of FN-207 Orange Slice and 2 tbsp. NT-BR Clear One Brushing and thoroughly mix. Use the Soft Fan to apply 3 coats to the outside of the container.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 3 coats to the inside of the container. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Using the Mother of Pearl Brush with OG-803 MOP Brush-On, apply 1 coat to the outside of the container. Apply a thin, even coat using a circular motion.
Fire to cone 020.
Wicker Container:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze out 1 tbsp. of SC-91 Seabreeze. Thin with around 1 tsp. of water. Use the Soft Fan to apply 1 coat to the outside of the container.
Using a damp sponge, wipe the outside of the container until most of the glaze is gone, leaving it only in the crevices.
Pour out around 1 tbsp. of FN-214 Pastel Jade and 1 tbsp. NT-BR Clear One Brushing and thoroughly mix. Use the Soft Fan to apply 3 coats to the outside of the container.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 3 coats to the inside of the container. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Using the Mother of Pearl Brush with OG-803 MOP Brush-On, apply 1 coat to the outside of the container. Apply a thin, even coat using a circular motion.
Roll the clay piece up in your hands to create a pebble. Note: pebbles should range in approximate size from large pea to grape.
Put the pebble in a plastic bowl to keep from rolling everywhere.
Repeat steps 2-4 until your clay chunk is gone.
Place saran wrap in the inside of the paper bowl.
Tuck the pebbles of clay close together starting at the bottom of the inside of the bowl and work your way up the sides.
Give them a little squish occasionally to flatten the pebbles and help them connect. Note: small gaps may still appear. These aren’t a problem, but large gaps should be filled in with a small pebble.
Continue steps 7-8 until the sides of the bowl are covered, tearing off more chunks of clay to make pebbles as needed.
Once the inside of the bowl is covered with pebbles, compress the bottom of the bowl using your hand.
Take your thumb from the top edge of the clay pebbles and with pressure, slide down to the center of the bowl. This will get rid of the individual pebble texture,but will connect and compress the clay. The pebble texture will remain on the outside.
Continue pressing and sliding down until the whole inside of the bowl is relatively smooth. Remember: pressure is important to make sure the clay is compressed and doesn’t crack as it dries!
Let the clay dry a bit inside the paper bowl before removing. The bowl can be removed immediately, but the shape of the pebble bowl may warp and it’s a little tougher to remove.
Let fully dry and bisque fire to cone 04.
Glaze using your favorite Mayco glaze that highlights texture on the piece. Foundations Sheers would be great option for showing texture!
Adaptations: Pebbles can also be rolled one handed on a table surface instead of between both hands, or pinched into a round shape rather than rolled. A tool, like a spoon, could be used to compress and connect the pebbles together instead of using your thumb.
Dampen a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove debris.
Apply 3 coats of SC-79 It’s Sage diagonally on the lower 1/3rd-2/3rd of the piece. Let dry between coats. Wipe away all excess glaze from the foot.
Once dry, apply a thin coat of AC-302 Wax Resist over the SC-79 It’s Sage with a flat shader brush and let dry completely. Wash brush immediately.
Once the wax has dried thoroughly, use a damp sponge to gently wipe back any SC-79 It’s Sage above the edge of where the wax was applied for a clean line.
Use a soft fan brush to apply heavy slaps and drizzles of SW-155 Winter Wood onto the unglazed upper section of the outside of the cup. Tilt and shake the piece to control movement and direction of drips.
In the same section, repeat step 5 using SW-144 Lava Rock.
In the same section, repeat step 5 using SW-252 Blue Opal.
In the same section, repeat step 5 using SW-109 Capri Blue.
Once completely dry, wipe away all excess glaze from the Wax Resist
Apply 2 coats of SW-144 Lava Rock to the inside of the cup with a soft fan brush. Let dry between coats.
Apply 2 coats of SW-146 Aurora Green to the inside of the cup with a soft fan brush. Let dry between coats.
Fire to cone 5/6. Sample was fired to Cone 6.
Tips:
Allow the glazes to be slightly wet between steps 5-8 so they can marble together on the piece.
Give your stoneware glazes plenty of room to drip and flow over your Stroke & Coat during firing.
Joe Mug
Dampen a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove debris.
Apply 3 coats of SC-79 It’s Sage to the angled bottom sectionof the piece. Wipe away all excess glaze from the foot.
Once dry, apply a thin coat of AC-302 Wax Resist over the SC-79 It’s Sage with a flat shader brush and let dry completely. Wash brush immediately.
Once the wax has dried thoroughly, use a damp sponge to gently wipe back any SC-79 It’s Sage above the edge of where the wax was applied for a clean line.
Use a soft fan brush to apply 3 receded coats of SW-155 Winter Wood from the top edge of SC-79 It’s Sage and up 2 ¼”. Let dry.
Use a #6 Script Liner to apply 3 coats of SW-252 Blue Opal in a ¼” bandabove Winter Wood. Let dry.
Use a #2 Soft Fan to apply 3 coats of SW-109 Capri Blue in a 1” stripe, overlapping the SW-252 Blue Opal completely, and overlapping the SW-155 Winter Wood by ¼” (the top edge). Let dry.
Use a #2 Soft Fan to apply 3 coats of SW-144 Lava Rock in a ½” stripe from the lip of the cup, overlapping ¼” (the top edge) of the SW-109 Capri Blue.
Apply 2 coats of SW-144 Lava Rock to the inside of the cup with a #4 Soft Fan brush, and 3 coats on the handle. Let dry between coats.
Layer 2 coats of SW-146 Aurora Green on top of the SW-144 Lava Rock in the inside of the cup.
Fire to cone 5/6. Sample was fired to Cone 6.
Message Mug
Dampen a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove debris.
With 1/4” tape, square off the message board on the front of the piece. With more tape, divide the window into 4 even sections with crossed horizontal and vertical lines.
Apply 3 coats of SW-501 White Gloss into the windowpanes. Let dry completely.
Once the SW-501 is fully dried, use Stroke & Coat and water to paint a landscape in a watercolor style using a script liner brush. This sample shows SC-32 Bluebeard used as the sky, SC-51 Pooh Bear as the sunshine in the clouds, SC-29 Bluegrass as the mountains, SC-12 Moody Blue as the snow, and SC-39 Army Surplus, SC-79 It’s Sage, and SC-14 Java Bean as the trees.
Gently remove the tape and apply 3 coats of SW-144 Lava Rock where the tape was using a flat shader brush for precision. Glaze the bottom section of the piece with 3 coats of SW-144 Lava Rock as well, using a soft fan brush. Let glaze dry between coats.
Apply 3 coats of SC-79 to the handle. Allow to dry between coats.
When fully dry, apply a careful coat of wax resist over the entire window, handle, and foot of the piece with a flat shader brush and dry completely. Wash brush immediately. For crisp edges, wipe away any glaze that is not protected by wax.
Apply 3 receded coats of SW-155 Winter Wood to the lower 2/3rds of the body of the piece in an uneven line, like a hilly landscape. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use a script liner to apply 3 coats of SW-252 Blue Opal in a thin bandabove the SW-155 Winter Wood. Let dry between coats.
With a soft fan brush, apply three coats of Capri Blue in a wavy line about 2” thick reaching nearly the lip of the piece, overlapping the SW-252 Blue Opal and partially overlapping the SW-155 Winter Wood.
Apply 3 coats of SW-144 Lava Rock in a wavy line with a soft fan brush to cover the bare bisque at the top of the piece and partially overlapping the SW-109 Capri Blue. Apply 2 coats to the lip and the inside of the pi Allow to dry between coats.
Apply 2 coats of SW-149 Aurora Green on top of the SW-144 Lava Rock on the lip and in the inside of the cup. * If you do not wish for this glaze combination to drip onto the body of the piece, recede the coats of SW-146 Aurora Green and brush away any large crystals on the *
Fire to cone 5/6. Sample was fired to cone 6.
Tips:
Be careful to avoid overbrushing! The SW-501 White Gloss will soften as it gets wet, and overbrushing will wipe it away or mix it into your Stroke & Coat. Let one color dry before layering another color.
If you would like to practice your watercolor brush strokes, you can use the side of the piece and wipe it off with a damp sponge.
Once fully dry, you may use a toothpick to lightly scratch the surface of your watercolor landscape to reveal crisp lines of glossy white.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-301 Iron Wash, apply 1 coat over the raised message portion on the mug. Wipe off most of the wash using a damp sponge. Try not to wipe off any of the wash going around the border of the message section.
Pour out around 1/2 TBS of SG-401 Black onto the palette. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or designer liner.
Take DSS-0128 The Farm Screen and find the barn. Draw a border around the screen with the permanent marker. Cut it out.
Place the screen shiny side down towards the bottom of the message section. While holding the screen firmly in place, scoop a small amount of premixed silkscreen medium onto the squeegee and pull across the screen. Remove the screen.
Use the pencil to write lettering on the message section of the mug. Use the Detail Liner with SG-401 Black to trace over your lettering.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-118 Sea Salt, apply 2 coats to the outside of the mug. Do not glaze over the message section. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-166 Norse Blue, apply 2 coats to the outside of the mug. Do not glaze over the message section. Recede the 2nd coat around 1/4” from the bottom of the mug to prevent dripping. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with PC-602 White Cascade, apply ½” band going around the top of the mug.
Fill AC-220 Detailer Tips and 1 oz Bottles with SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue. You only need to fill the bottle ¼ full. Make dots going around the rim of the mug, right over the pottery cascades.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-508 Black Gloss, apply 3 coats to the inside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-155 Winter Wood, apply 2 coats to the outside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-165 Lavender Mist, apply 2 coats to the outside of the mug. Recede the 2nd coat around 1/4” from the bottom of the mug to prevent dripping. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with PC-602 White Cascade, apply ½” band going around the top of the mug.
Fill AC-220 Detailer Tips and 1 oz Bottles with SC-2 Melon-Choly. You only need to fill the bottle ¼ full. Make dots going around the rim of the mug, right over the pottery cascades.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-508 Black Gloss, apply 3 coats to the inside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-166 Norse Blue, apply 2 coats to the outside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-180 Desert Dusk, apply 2 coats to the outside of the mug. Recede the 2nd coat around 1/4” from the bottom of the mug to prevent dripping. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with PC-602 White Cascade, apply ½” band going around the top of the mug.
Fill AC-220 Detailer Tips and 1 oz Bottles with SC-75 Orange-A-Peel. You only need to fill the bottle ¼ full. Make dots going around the rim of the mug, right over the pottery cascades.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-508 Black Gloss, apply 3 coats to the inside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
With a CB-618 #8 Soft Fan brush, apply 3 coats of FN-301 Marshmallow White Matte foundations.
Use fake leaves or create your own leaf design by sketching or tracing with a pencil. Optional: wipe some of the extra graphite off of the piece to remove residue.
For the canvas, apply 2 coats of EL-103 Sea Spray to fill in the leaves design with a CB-408 #8 Pointed Round brush.
For the Holiday plate, use a CB-408 #8 Pointed Round brush to apply 2 coats of EL-150 Fern for the leaves and combined FN-221 Milk Glass White.
Use an RB-118 #8 Round Brush with SC-81 Cinnamon Stix for berries.
Sketch lines on for the design (can use a ruler, free hand or tape).
Sample: 1cm lines
Use SC-79 It’s Sage, SC-58 501 Blues, SC-91 Seabreeze, SC-45 My Blue Heaven and SC-16 Cotton Tail for each section. Tinted SC-58 501 Blues and SC-79 It’s Sage with SC-16 Cotton Tail to have a lighter shade of it for color variations.
Use water to dilute the colors so it will not require 3 coats and will be simple to paint.
Use a CB-310 #10 Flat Shader to fill in color in each section.
Sample: used a brush that is the same width as the sections to fill in the color with one or two brushstrokes.
Once all the lines are painted, use SC-16 Cotton Tail to mimic the stitches to hold each section together with a CB-200 #0 Detail brush.
Finish by painting 1 coat of Milk Glass White on the top of the piece, and 3 coats on the back with a CB-618 #8 Soft Fan brush.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze out 1 tbsp. of SC-96 Aqu-ward onto the palette. Thin with around 1 tsp. of water. Use the Soft Fan to apply 1 coat to the textured area of the tree (everything besides the tip and base).
Using a damp sponge, wipe the textured area of the tree until most of the glaze is gone, leaving it only in the crevices.
Pour out around 1 tbsp. of FN-216 Sea Glass and 1 tbsp. NT-BR Clear One Brushing onto the palette and thoroughly mix. Use the Soft Fan to apply 3 coats to the textured areas on the outside of the tree (everything besides the tip and base).
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 3 coats to the tip and base of the tree. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Using the Mother of Pearl Brush with OG-803 MOP Brush-On, apply 1 coat to the outside of the tree. Apply a thin, even coat using a circular motion.
Fire to cone 020.
Medium Tree:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze out 1 tbsp. of SC-60 Silver Lining onto the palette. Thin with around 1 tsp. of water. Use the Soft Fan to apply 1 coat to the textured area of the tree (everything besides the tip and base).
Using a damp sponge, wipe the outside of the tree until most of the glaze is gone, leaving it only in the crevices.
Pour out around 1 tbsp. of FN-211 Sheer Blue and 1 tbsp. NT-BR Clear One Brushing and thoroughly mix. Use the Soft Fan to apply 3 coats to the textured areas on the outside of the tree (everything besides the tip and base).
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 3 coats to the tip and base of the tree. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Using the Mother of Pearl Brush with OG-803 MOP Brush-On, apply 1 coat to the outside of the tree. Apply a thin, even coat using a circular motion.
Fire to cone 020.
Small Tree:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze out 1 tbsp. of SC-1 Pink-A-Boo. Thin with around 1 tsp. of water. Use the Soft Fan to apply 1 coat to the textured areas on the outside of the tree (everything besides the tip and base).
Using a damp sponge, wipe the outside of the tree until most of the glaze is gone, leaving it only in the crevices.
Pour out around 1 tbsp. of FN-209 Floral Pink and 2 tbsp. NT-BR Clear One Brushing and thoroughly mix. Use the Soft Fan to apply 3 coats to the textured areas on the outside of the container (everything besides the tip and base).
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 3 coats to the tip and base of the tree. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Using the Mother of Pearl Brush with OG-803 MOP Brush-On, apply 1 coat to the outside of the container. Apply a thin, even coat using a circular motion.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-125 Sahara Sands, apply 3 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-125 Sahara Sands, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Cut your lace or doilies to the size you would like for the front of the plate. Place them on the front of the plate and sponge them with water to help that stick to the plate. You want to use the least amount of water as possible.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-125 Sahara Sands, apply 1 thin coat over your lace or doilies. Allow glaze to dry to the touch.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-10 Teal Next Time or SC-88 Tu Tu Tango (you can also use a different S&C color of your choice), apply 1 coat over your lace or doilies. Allow glaze to lose it’s shine. Do not wait until it is bone dry. Remove the lace or doilies.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
With the #4 Soft Fan Brush apply 3 coats of FN-304 Black Velvet about half way up the tree.
With the #4 Soft Fan Brush apply 2 coats of EL-120 Black Ice from the top of the tree slightly overlapping the dried FN-304 Black Velvet
With the #4 Soft Fan Brush apply 2 heavy coats of FN-1 White to the base of the tree
Use the #6 Script Liner Brush with EL-120 Black Ice and dab on abstract dot shapes around the base.
Fire to cone 06.
Large Wicker Tree
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 3 coats of AS-510 White Opal (painting in different directions each coat for full coverage. Be sure to shake the bottle first to mix in crystals) to the base of the tree.
Apply 2 heavy coats of FN-301 Marshmallow White with the #4 Soft Fan Brush to the top woven wicker section of the tree.
Once the FN-301 Marshmallow White is dried use the #6 Script Liner Brush to paint dashed lines across the raised wicker sections with SP-215 Speckled Black Tuxedo.
With the #4 Soft Fan Brush apply 2 heavy coats of EL-120 Black Ice to the very top of the tree and under the FN-301 Marshmallow Whitesection.
Once the sections of the tree painted with EL-120 Black Ice are dried, apply 1 heavy coat of SG-701 Speckta-Clear Star Dust.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 2 coats of EL-113 Spanish Moss with RB-144 #4 Soft Fan Brush to the woven wicker.
Apply 2 coats of a 50/50 mixture of EL-110 Mudslide and EL-204 Glowing Embers with RB-106 #6 Script Liner Brush to the braided wicker sections towards the top of the tree and bottom of the tree.
Apply 2 coats of FN-14 Antique White with RB-144 #4 Soft Fan Brush to the base.
With the Script Liner water down SC-81 Cinnamon Six and paint 2 horizontal lines around the base. Layer over with SC-79 It’s Sage with vertical stripes and SC-39 with vertical and horizontal stripes as plaid
Fire to cone 06.
Medium Wicker Tree
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust
Apply 2 coats of EL-113 Spanish Moss with RB-144 #4 Soft Fan Brush to the scalloped wicker.
Apply 2 coats of EL-204 Glowing Embers with RB-106 #6 Script Liner Brush to the braided wicker sections towards the top and bottom of the tree, and the flat vertical pieces around the tree.
Apply 2 coats of FN-14 Antique White with RB-144 #$ Soft Fan Brush to the base.
With the Script Liner water down SC-39 Army Surplus and paint vertical lines around the base. Laver over with horizontal stripes SC-79 It’s Sage as plaid
Fire to cone 06.
Large Wicker Tree
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 2 coats of EL-113 Spanish Moss with RB-144 #4 Soft Fan Brush to the woven and crossed wicker sections.
Apply 2 coats of EL-110 Mudslide with RB-106 #6 Script Liner Brush to the braided wicker sections around the tree
Apply 2 coats of FN-14 Antique White with RB-144 #$ Soft Fan Brush to the base
With the Script Liner water down SC-15 Tuxedo and paint 2 horizontal lines around the base. Later over with SC-81 Cinnamon Stix vertical stripes and a 50/50 mix of SC-15 Tuxedo and SC-81 Cinnamon Stix vertical & horizontal stripes.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 2 heavy coats of EL-110 Mudslide with the #4 Soft Fan Brush to the base of the tree.
Apply 2 coats of FN-32 Canton Jade with the #4 Soft Fan Brush on the tree
Once the FN-32 Canton Jade is dried, apply 2 coats of EL-106 Tidal Pool with the #4 Soft Fan Brush on the tree.
Fire to cone 06.
Medium Wicker Tree
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 2 heavy coats of EL-110 Mudslide with the #4 Soft Fan Brush to the base of the tree.
Apply 2 coats of EL-106 Tidal Pool to the tree.
Once the EL-106 Tidal Pool is dried, apply 2 coats of EL-113 Spanish Moss from the bottom of the tree to the top of the tree underneath the 3 braided wicker lines, so the top section of the tree is just EL-106 Tidal Pool.
Fire to cone 06.
Large Wicker Tree
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
With the #4 Soft Fan Brush apply 1 heavy coat of IN1037 Leaf Green.
With a damp sponge, wipe the IN1037 from the raised textures of the tree. Be sure to not wipe too much from the inset crevices
Mix equal parts FN-216 Sea Glass and IN1037 Leaf Green and apply 2 heavy coats on the tree
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply 2 heavy coats of FN-1 White with the #4 Soft Fan Brush to the tree.
Apply 2 coats of CG-998 Peppermint Twist to the base of the tree with the #4 Soft Fan Brush.
Apply 2 coats of CG-997 Seafoam to the very top section of the tree.
Once the FN-1 White is dried, randomly apply dots of FN-214 Pastel Jade, FN-231 Clearly Jade, IN1032 Miami Pink and IN1005 Ruby Red with cotton swabs or a dotting tool around the tree as decorations.
Fire to cone 06.
Medium Wicker Tree
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Start painting at the bottom of the tree with a #4 Soft Fan Brush with IN1005 Ruby Red, about 1/3 way up, feather the paint so there is a smooth blend between colours.
With a different, or clean #4 Soft Fan Brush, apply IN1032 Miami Pink and slightly overlap the feathered edge of IN1005 Ruby Red. Paint upwards about 2/3 of the tree. Feather the paint so there is a smooth blend between colours.
With another different, or clean #4 Soft Fan Brush, apply CG-968 Peppermint Twist to the top of the tree and slightly overlap the feathered edge of IN1032 Miami Pink.
Once the tree is dried, repeat steps 2-4.
Apply 2 coats of FN-1 White to the base of the with a #4 Soft Fan Brush
Fire to cone 06
Large Wicker Tree
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Start painting at the bottom of the tree with a #4 Soft Fan Brush with FN-231 Clearly Jade, about 1/3 way up, feather the paint so there is a smooth blend between colours.
With a different, or clean #4 Soft Fan Brush, apply FN-214 Pastel Jade and slightly overlap the feathered edge of FN-231 Clearly Jade. Paint upwards about 2/3 of the tree. Feather the paint so there is a smooth blend between colours.
With another different, or clean #4 Soft Fan Brush, apply CG-997 Seafoam to the top of the tree and slightly overlap the feathered edge of FN-2134 Pastel Jade.
Once the tree is dried, repeat steps 2-4.
Apply 2 coats of FN-1 White to the base of the with a #4 Soft Fan Brush.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 Bisque. Moisten a clean Sponge and wipe Bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 Coats of FN-008 Brown to the top of the tile only.
Pencil in the position of the flowers and the stems. Precut the eyelash yarn for the flower size. Brush water over the space for the flower head, then lay in the eyelash yarn shape into a circle. Brush back over the yarn with FN-008 Brown.
Brush some FN-008 Brown over the stem area working one stem at a time. Lay in the jute or heavy linen string then brush over with another coat of FN-008 Brown.
Allow to dry just until the shine leaves the Glaze.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of SC-86 Old Lace over the entire tile. Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2 Coats of SC-28 Blue Isle on the flower area. Apply 2 Coats Coats of SC-5 Tiger Tail on the centers of the flowers.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply SC-5 Tiger Tail mixed with some of the SC-86 Old Lace towards the bottom of the tile adding more of the SC-86 Old Lace toward the top.
Brush in some SC-85 Orkid in a random fashion. Brush in some SC-76 Cara-bein Blue to follow some of the spiral vines near the top.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply a thinned coat of CG-718 Blue Caprice over the SC-28 Blue Isle flowers.
Allow to dry until the shine leaves the Glaze. Pull off all the string and yarn. Allow to dry.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Cut out the paper pattern.
Position the pattern on the tile, trace around the flower and the bird.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC-88 Tu Tu Tango to the flower area, brush over the center and past the pencil lines.
Cut the paper flower from the stem and the bird. After the third coat of glaze, while the glaze is still damp, brush lightly with water, then place the cut out paper flower on the glaze, press down to secure the edges from lifting.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner and a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of FN-009 Black to the remaining area of the tile.
While the glaze is damp, brush lightly with water, then press in the remaining paper pattern. Press with paper towel to remove excess water.
When nearly dry, Using a CB-310 #10 Flat Shader brush to brush thin even, crosshatching stokes of SC-78 Lime Light around the bird’s body, blend in with SC-76 Cara-bein Blue to the remainder of the tile, add in some SC-10 Teal Next Time in the SC-76 Cara-bein blue area. Apply at least 3 thin coats.
Remove the paper.
Using CB-110 #10/0 Liner, apply2 coats of SC-10 Teal Next Time to the stems, and center.
Dot around the center using the tip of the brush handle with FN-009 Black. Allow to dry.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using an CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN-033 Mediterranean Teal to the inside and outside of the Tumbler. Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to cone 06. Use a Coffee Filter to remove the tree from the kiln to prevent getting any fingerprints on them.
Place some OG801 Bright Gold onto a glazed tile. Using an OG-916G #6 Filbert (Gold Handle), apply a coat of OG801 Bright Gold to the outside of the Tumbler. Clean brush with OA901 Essence that is reserved for the OG801 Bright Gold.
Stilt and fire the Tumbler to cone 022. This is a soft firing temperature for the Gold. If left this way, it will rub off. We want it like this for this technique.
Using a Scrubby with a little Cleanser on it, rub the Fired Gold off the top surface of the Tumbler, leaving it in the deep crevices. Do not rub off the top rim. Rinse with clean water and allow to dry.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Remove any of the Ornament Caps from the Ornament Balls.
Using an CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN-004 Red to one of the Ornament Balls.
Apply 3 coats of CC-101 Transparent Crackleto the second Ornament Ball
Apply 3 coats of EL-134 Mirror Blue to the third Ornament Ball. Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to cone 06. Use a Coffee Filter to remove the Ornaments from the kiln to prevent getting any fingerprints on them.
Using a container larger than the Ornament Balls, line it with a plastic bag for ease of clean up.
Fill the container with warm water (do not use cold water) about 2” from the top.
Using a Toothpick, dip the Toothpick into the bottle of Fired Gold. Place a drop to the top surface of the water so that OG801 Bright Gold will float on top of the water.
Bend a coat hanger so that it will fit into the pour hole of the Red and the Blue Ornament Ball. This will help when dipping.
Dip one of the Ornaments in the water with the floating Bright Gold. Hang to dry!
Repeat with the Blue Ornament Ball. You may need to add another drop of Bright Gold.
You can dip each ornament a second time if you wish to get more Gold on them. Dry!
White Ornament Ball: Using an OB-916G #6 Filbert (Gold Handle), apply a band of Bright Gold to the center of the Ornament also to the top and bottom of the Ornament. Clean the brush using OA901 Essence that is reserved for Fired Gold to prevent contamination.
Stilt and fire all the Ornament Balls to cone 018.
Once fired, apply OG803 Mother of Pearl to the crackle ornament. Fire again to cone 020.
Antique the Ornament with CC-101 Transparent Crackle with SS-138 Flat Black.
Put the Ornament Caps on the top of the Ornaments and Enjoy!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using an CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN-009 Black to the inside and the outside of the Tumbler. Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to cone 06. Use a Coffee Filter to remove the Tumbler from the kiln to prevent getting any fingerprints on them.
Place the Tumbler on a Banding Wheel and center it.
Using OB-901 Mother of Pearl ¼” Shader, apply OG803 Mother of Pearl in a horizontal pattern around the Tumbler. Clean brush with OA901 Essence that is reserved for the OG803 Mother of Pearl.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Thin some FN-003 Orange to the consistency of coffee cream. Pour the glaze inside the vase and roll the glaze coating the inside of the vase. Drain the vase as you are rolling the glaze into a small cup. Leave vase upside down to drain. Wipe off any drips with a damp sponge. Allow to dry!
Using an CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN-003 Orange to the neck of the vase.
Using an CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2- 3 coats of CG-987 Tree frog to the bottom half of the vase. Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to cone 06. Use a Coffee Filter to remove the Tumbler from the kiln to prevent getting any fingerprints on them.
Using an OB-916G #6 Filbert (Gold Handle), apply 1 coat of OG805 Premium Gold to the rim of the Vase.
Stilt and fire to cone 018.
Using an OB-901 Mother of Pearl ¼” Shader, apply OG803 Mother of Pearl swirling it over the Tree Frog glaze of the Vase. The more you swirl the more color you will get. Clean brush with OA901 Essence that is reserved for the OG803 Mother of Pearl.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using an CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of C-300 Matte Transparent to the tree. Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to cone 06. Use a Coffee Filter to remove the Tumbler from the kiln to prevent getting any fingerprints on them.
Using an OB-916G #6 Filbert (Gold Handle), apply 1 coat of OG805 Premium Gold to the Base and tip of the tree.
Stilt and fire to cone 018.
Using an OB-901 Mother of Pearl ¼” Shader, apply the Dirty Mother of Pearl swirling it over the entire tree. The more you swirl the more color you will get. Clean brush with OA901 Essence that is reserved for the OG803 Mother of Pearl.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using an CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN-221 Milk Glass White to the tree. Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to cone 06. Use a Coffee Filter to remove the Tumbler from the kiln to prevent getting any fingerprints on them.
Using an OB-916W #6 Filbert (Silver Handle), apply 1 coat of OG802 White Gold to the Base and tip of the tree.
Stilt and fire to cone 018.
Using a jar of OG803 Mother of Pearl add a drop of OG801 Bright Gold to it. Mix gently not to create air bubbles.
Using an OB-901 Mother of Pearl ¼” Shader, apply the Dirty Mother of Pearl swirling it over the wicker part of the tree. The more you swirl the more color you will get. Clean brush with OA901 Essence that is reserved for the OG803 Mother of Pearl.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using an CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN-211 Sheer Blue to Tree. Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to cone 06. Use a Coffee Filter to remove the Tree from the kiln to prevent getting any fingerprints on them.
Using an OB-916W #6 Filbert (Silver Handle) apply OG802 White Gold to the tree streaking it upward from the bottom of the branches.
Stilt and fire to cone 018.
Use a Coffee Filter to remove the Tree from the kiln to prevent getting any fingerprints on them.
Using an OB-901 Mother of Pearl ¼” Shader, apply OG803 Mother of Pearl in a circular pattern around the Tree going over the White Gold. Clean brush with OA901 Essence that is reserved for the OG803 Mother of Pearl.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using an CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN-221 Milk Glass White. Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to cone 06. Use a Coffee Filter to remove the tree from the kiln to prevent getting any fingerprints on them.
Using a container larger than the tree, line it with a plastic bag for ease of clean up.
Fill the container with warm water (do not use cold water) about 2” from the top.
Using a Toothpick, dip the Toothpick into the bottle of Fired Gold. Place a drop or two to the top surface of the water so that the Fired Gold will float on top of the water.
Bend a coat hanger so that it will fit into the pour hole of the tree. This will help when dipping.
Dip the tree in the water with the floating Fired Gold. Hang to dry!
You can dip the tree a second time if you wish to get more Gold on it. Allow to Dry!
Stilt and fire all the tree to cone 018
The result of this technique you will get Gold and some purple areas on the piece. The purple is where the Gold is on the thin side, so you get a two-tone look. With some White peeking through.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove debris.
With a marker, draw four large half-circles on the top left, top right, bottom left, and bottom right side of the platter surface. Draw a small circle in the center of the platter, and a two more circles creating a 2-inch ring in the space between the outer edge of the platter and the outer edge of the center circle.
With a fan brush, apply 2-3 coats of SW-168 Coral Sands in the center circle. Let dry between coats.
With a fan brush, apply 2-3 coats of SW-166 Norse Blue in the four large half-circles, but do not glaze where the 2-inch ring overlaps the half-circles. Let dry between coats.
With a fan brush, apply 2-3 coats of SW-177 Raspberry Mist in the unmarked and unglazed sections of the surface, covering the 2-inch ring as it overlaps only on the right and left side.
With a fan brush, apply 2-3 coats of SW-165 Lavender Mist in the unglazed portions of the 2-inch ring on platter surface. Let dry between coats.
With a fan brush, apply 2-3 coats of SW-167 Sand & Sea to the outside of the platter.
Dampen a clean sponge to wipe away all excess glaze from the foot.
Any kind of marker will work to create your circle pattern, and there is no need for a template! Free-handing your circles gives a more organic look and perfectly even spacing is not necessary for this design.
Skip the wax resist and perfectionism, straying outside the lines and allowing your glazes to overlap creates more depth.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove debris.
With a marker, draw two small half-circles at the top and bottom of the platter surface. Draw two larger half-circles on the right and left sides of the platter surface. Add add a 2-inch border around the larger circles.
With a fan brush, apply 2-3 coats of SW-177 Raspberry Mist in the two small half-circles. Let dry between coats.
With a fan brush, apply 2-3 coats of SW-166 Norse Blue in the two larger circles. Let dry between coats.
With a fan brush, apply 2-3 coats of SW-165 Lavender Mist in the borders around the larger circles. Let dry between coats.
With a fan brush, apply 2-3 coats of SW-168 Coral Sands in the unglazed section of the platter surface. Let dry between coats.
With a fan brush, apply 2-3 coats of SW-167 Sand & Sea to the handles and outside of the platter.
Dampen a clean sponge to wipe away all excess glaze from the foot.
Any kind of marker will work to create your circle pattern, and there is no need for a template! Free-handing your circles gives a more organic look and perfectly even spacing is not necessary for this design.
Skip the wax resist and perfectionism, straying outside the lines and allowing your glazes to overlap creates more depth.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour around ¼ cup of EL-101 Oyster Shell into the disposable cup. Thin with water until it is easily poured (start with 1 TBS). Pour into the vase and rotate until the inside is covered. Pour out the excess.
Take your 3 AC-220 Detailer Tips and 1 oz Bottles and fill each one with the following glazes: EL-101 Oyster Shell, EL-127 Rose Granite and EL-132 Rust Red.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-101 Oyster Shell, apply 1 coat to the outside of the vase.
Holding the vase above the paper plate (or sink), take your 3 bottles of glaze and randomly squirt the outside of the vase until it is covered. Do this quickly so the glaze does not dry in place. Rotate the vase until it is as marbled as you would like. Firmly shake the vase until the excess glaze has dripped off.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Make sure your disposable bowl is large enough to fit the vase lengthwise. Fill your bowl with water that is slightly warmer than room temperature. Take OG-801 Bright Gold and pour out 3-5 drops onto the water. It should disperse on the top of the water. You might have some that sinks to the bottom. Make sure you can see a film on the top of the water.
Take your vase and rotate it across the surface of the water. You should see some of the gold depositing on the vase. Repeat if you would like more gold.
Fire to cone 018.
Form
MB-1467 Faceted Bud Vase
Colors
EL-101 Oyster Shell
EL-127 Rose Granite
EL-132 Rust Red
OG-801 Bright Gold
Decorating Accessories
AC-220 Detailer Tips and 1 oz Bottles (3)
RB-144 #4 Soft Fan
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sponge
Water
Disposable Cup
Paper Plate
Disposable Bowl (big enough for the vase to fit in lengthwise)
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour around ¼ cup of EL-103 Sea Spray into the disposable cup. Thin with water until it is easily poured (start with 1 TBS). Pour into the vase and rotate until the inside is covered. Pour out the excess.
Take your 3 AC-220 Detailer Tips and 1 oz Bottles and fill each one with the following glazes: EL-103 Sea Spray, EL-118 Blue Grotto and EL-130 Sea Green.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-103 Sea Spray, apply 1 coat to the outside of the vase.
Holding the vase above the paper plate (or sink), take your 3 bottles of glaze and randomly squirt the outside of the vase until it is covered. Do this quickly so the glaze does not dry in place. Rotate the vase until it is as marbled as you would like. Firmly shake the vase until the excess glaze has dripped off.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Make sure your disposable bowl is large enough to fit the vase lengthwise. Fill your bowl with water that is slightly warmer than room temperature. Take OG-802 White Gold and pour out 3-5 drops onto the water. It should disperse on the top of the water. You might have some that sinks to the bottom. Make sure you can see a film on the top of the water.
Put on your nitrile gloves. Take your vase and rotate it across the surface of the water. You should see some of the gold depositing on the vase. Repeat if you would like more gold.
Dispose of the bowl or use it only for this technique.
Fire to cone 018.
Form
MB-1467 Faceted Bud Vase
Colors
EL-103 Sea Spray
EL-118 Blue Grotto
EL-130 Sea Green
OG-802 White Gold
Decorating Accessories
AC-220 Detailer Tips and 1 oz Bottles (3)
RB-144 #4 Soft Fan
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sponge
Water
Disposable Cup
Paper Plate
Disposable Bowl (big enough for the vase to fit in lengthwise)
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Center the pattern on the canvas. Take AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper and slide it under the pattern. Trace with the pencil. Remove pattern and clay carbon paper.
Using the Script Liner with SP-212 Speckled Moody Blue, apply 3 coats to the 2 thick arches and heart on the rainbow. Use the Soft Fan to apply 3 coats to the edges of the canvas. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use SG-410 Bright Blue to make decorative lines and dots on the rainbow.
Using the Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of CC-101 Transparent to the top of the canvas. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Sponge SS-138 Flat Black over the top of the canvas. Wipe off with a paper towel. You should be able to see the cracks in the glaze.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 3 coats to the front and sides of the canvas. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil to draw a half circle on the front of the canvas. Try to center it along the bottom edge.
Use MC-002 12mm Low Tack Masking Tape to make lines going from the outer edge of the half circle to the edge of the canvas. Make around 5-9 lines. Use the tape to go around the circle in sections. You are just trying to make a bottom border for your sunrays.
Using the Script Liner with CG-753 Sassy Orange, CG-756 Firecracker and CG-998 Pink Pixie, apply 2 coats to each of the sections. Choose 1 color for each sunray. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Remove the tape before the glaze is bone dry.
Take the pencil and draw another half circle, inside your original half circle. This will be the border of the sun. You don’t want it to directly touch the rays.
Using the Script Liner with CG-753 Sassy Orange, CG-756 Firecracker or CG-998 Pink Pixie apply 2 coats to the sun. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour around ¼ cup of NT-CLR Clear One Dipping into the vase. Rotate to cover the inside of the vase. Pour out any excess glaze. (Note: no need to mix water to thin the dipping glaze. It is already thin enough to pour.)
Using the Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of CG-979 Meadow to the outside of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of CG-962 Blue Azure to the outside of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour around ¼ cup of NT-CLR Clear One Dipping into the vase. Rotate to cover the inside of the vase. Pour out any excess glaze. (Note: no need to mix water to thin the dipping glaze. It is already thin enough to pour.)
Using the Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of CG-981 Fruity Freckles to the outside of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of S-2724 Lotus Blossom to the outside of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Pink Combo Vase
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour around ¼ cup of NT-CLR Clear One Dipping into the vase. Rotate to cover the inside of the vase. Pour out any excess glaze. (Note: no need to mix water to thin the dipping glaze. It is already thin enough to pour.)
Using the Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of CG-993 Lavender Sprigs to the outside of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of S-2702 Northern Lights to the outside of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Form
MB-1556 Textured Bud Vases
Colors
Teal Combo
CG-981 Fruity Freckles
S-2724 Lotus Blossom
NT-CLR Clear One Dipping
Pink Combo
CG-993 Lavender Sprigs
S-2702 Northern Lights
NT-CLR Clear One Dipping
Decorating Accessories
RB-144 #4 Soft Fan
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sponge
Water
MCP Projects (Private)
1129
42155
Green and Blue Elements Combo with Pottery Cascades
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour around ¼ cup of EL-130 Sea Green into the disposable cup. Add around 1 TBS of water and mix. You want the glaze to be thin enough to be easily poured. Pour the glaze in to the vase. Rotate to cover the inside of the vase. Pour out any excess glaze.
Using the Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of EL-130 Sea Green to the outside of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Pour around 2 TBS of PC-601 Clear Cascade, PC-602 White Cascade, EL-208 Moss Creek, and EL-130 Sea Green onto the palette.
Using the same Soft Fan, dip it into the PC-601 Clear Cascade and glob it randomly onto vase several times. You want to cover at least ¼ of the outside.
Using the same Soft Fan, dip it into the EL-208 Moss Creek and glob it randomly onto vase. Make sure to put some globs over the PC-601 Clear Cascade. You want to cover at least ¼ of the outside.
Using the same Soft Fan, dip it into PC-602 White Cascade and add glob it randomly onto the vase. Make fewer, smaller globs.
Using the same Soft Fan, dip it into EL-130 Sea Green and add some more globs to the vase. Make sure to go over some of the PC-602 White Cascade.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Blue Combo Vase
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour around ¼ cup of EL-118 Blue Grotto into the disposable cup. Add around 1 TBS of water and mix. You want the glaze to be thin enough to be easily poured. Pour the glaze in to the vase. Rotate to cover the inside of the vase. Pour out any excess glaze.
Using the Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of EL-118 Blue Grotto to the outside of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Pour around 2 TBS of PC-601 Clear Cascade, PC-602 White Cascade, EL-211 Volcanic Glow and EL-118 Blue Grotto onto the palette.
Using the same Soft Fan, dip it into the PC-601 Clear Cascade and glob it randomly onto vase several times. You want to cover at least ¼ of the outside.
Using the same Soft Fan, dip it into the EL-211 Volcanic Glow and glob it randomly onto vase. Make sure to put some globs over the PC-601 Clear Cascade. You want to cover at least ¼ of the outside.
Using the same Soft Fan, dip it into PC-602 White Cascade and add glob it randomly onto the vase. Make fewer, smaller globs.
Using the same Soft Fan, dip it into EL-118 Blue Grotto and add some more globs to the vase. Make sure to go over some of the PC-602 White Cascade.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour around ¼ cup of EL-149 Lavender Flower into the disposable cup. Add around 1 TBS of water and mix. You want the glaze to be thin enough to be easily poured. Pour the glaze in to the vase. Rotate to cover the inside of the vase. Pour out any excess glaze.
Using the Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of EL-149 Lavender Flower to the outside of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Pour around 2 TBS of PC-601 Clear Cascade, PC-602 White Cascade, EL-209 Night Sky and EL-149 Lavender Flower onto the palette.
Using the same Soft Fan, dip it into the PC-601 Clear Cascade and glob it randomly onto vase several times. You want to cover at least ¼ of the outside.
Using the same Soft Fan, dip it into the EL-209 Night Sky and glob it randomly onto vase. Make sure to put some globs over the PC-601 Clear Cascade. You want to cover at least ¼ of the outside.
Using the same Soft Fan, dip it into PC-602 White Cascade and add glob it randomly onto the vase. Make fewer, smaller globs.
Using the same Soft Fan, dip it into EL-149 Lavender Flower and add some more globs to the vase. Make sure to go over some of the PC-602 White Cascade.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Cut out the football pattern. Place in the center of the plate and trace around the edge. Remove the pattern.
Using MC-001 6mm Low Tack Masking Tape, make horizontal lines going across the front of the plate.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate. Do not glaze inside of the football. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out around 1 TBS of SC-8 Just Froggy onto the palette. Dip the sponge in the glaze and sponge the front of the plate. Do not sponge inside of the football.
Remove the tape before the glaze is bone dry.
Use the tape to make laces in the center of the football.
Using the Script Liner with SC-87 Ruby Slippers, apply 2 coats to the football. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Remove the tape before the glaze is bone dry.
Using the Script Liner with SC-35 Gray Hare, apply 2 coats to the laces. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-703 Speckta-Clear Autumn, apply 1 coat to the entire plate.
Before applying your magic metallics, your leather piece should be cut, burnished, and shaped. Make sure it is fully dry. Note: Sewing can be done before or after the painting process.
Using AB-307 3/4 Angular Shader Acrylic Brush, apply one thin layer of Copper Magic Metallic. you will see streaks, but that’s not a problem at this point.
Let dry for a few minutes.
Apply a second layer and let dry.
Add a third and final layer to ensure full coverage if streaks still appear, but many times only two layers will be sufficient.
Cover with a flexible clear sealer right away to retain the bright copper penny look or wait a week+ before sealing and the copper will begin to take on a darker tone. The clear sealant will slow the change in color dramatically, but like the leather itself, it will begin to take on different characteristics over time.
After your second coat of copper, work in small areas to apply a third coat of copper.
Do not let this third coat dry!
Follow immediately with AB-704 #3 Round Acrylic Brush loaded with the Patina and go over the wet copper paint. Be generous with the patina!
Seal with a flexible clear sealant or leave alone to let nature work its magic over time!
Click ‘Download Printable PDF’ to download the step-by-step instructions and photos for this project.
The Pattern
Use a plate or other larger round object to trace a circle on a large sheet of paper.
With a ruler, divide the circle into even “pie” sections. The pattern seen here uses three lines to create six pie sections. (Fig. 1)
Draw an arc from one end of a line to the other and repeat on the opposite side to draw a shape like a long football. (Fig 2.)
Repeat on each line. All the lines should now resemble a flower shape in the center of your traced circle. (fig.3)
Cut out the flower shape by following the outside of the arcing lines. (Fig. 4)
Accommodations: Make one pattern and copy. Let students cut with scissors or precut the shape for them. For older/advanced students, allow them to decide the size of the circle and the number of “petals” they would like their pattern to have.
The Pumpkin
Using a rolling pin, roll a slab about 1/8th inch thick that is large enough for your petal pattern to fit into.
Compress your clay slab using the plastic card.
Texturize the slab using found objects, lace, or stamps. This pumpkin uses lace pressed into the glaze with the plastic card. (Fig 6)
Place your petal pattern on the slab and cut around the pattern with your needle tool. (Fig 7)
Cut out two small freehand oval shapes to use as the leaves. (Fig 7)
Set aside and cover the remaining clay
Flip the clay cutout upside down so the texture faces the table.
Wad up a small amount of paper towel and place in the center of your clay cutout. (Fig 8)
Fold one of the petals up over the wadded paper towel. The tip of the petal should fold over the top of the paper towel ball. Add or subtract paper towels as needed until you reach the correct size. (Fig. 9)
Score the tip of the petal and add a small drop of water.
Score the tip of the next petal and overlap the tip of the previous petal. (Fig. 10)
Continue steps 10 and 11 until all petals are connected at the top. Note: Do not be afraid to squish the top of the pumpkin a bit as you go to help the petals fit over the top of each other.
To make the stem, uncover the leftover clay and use a bit to roll a coil that is thin on one end and thick on the other. (Fig.11)
Score the underside of the stem and two leaves, plus the location where you would like to attach them on the pumpkin.
Add a little drop of water to the scored areas of the pumpkin and attach the stem and leaves. Give them a little wiggle to lock them in place.
Let dry and Bisque fire to cone 04. Note: do not remove the paper. It will safely burn out in the kiln.
Apply 3 coats of EL-133 Autumn to the body of the pumpkin, letting the glaze dry between coats.
Repeat step 17 with EL-130 Sea Green glaze for the leaves, and EL-125 Sahara Sands glaze for the stem
Stilt and fire to cone 06
Accommodations: Pre-roll the slabs for your students. Make sure they are covered so as not to lose any moisture before the students start working. Pre-cut the petal pattern and leaves, and texture can be added after the pattern is cut out.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
In a small cup, thin some FN-009 Black. Pour the glaze into the vase and roll around coating the inside of the vase. Leave the vase turned upside down to drain. When done draining, wipe off any spills of glaze with a damp sponge.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of AS-512 Black Diamond to the lower portion of the outside of the vase. Allow to dry!
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN-009 to the upper portion of the vase. Allow to dry!
Place some AC-302 Wax Resist onto a foam plate. Apply a coat of Wax Resist about a half inch above the AS-512 Black Diamond on the FN-009 Black glaze. Allow to dry! With a Sea Wool Sponge, sponge 1 coat of the AC-302 Wax Resist over the AS-12 Black Diamond creating a lace effect. Allow to dry!
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing glaze over the wax area. Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Using an OB-901 Mother of Pearl ¼” Shader, apply 1 coat of OG803 Mother of Pearl to the outside of the vase. Clean the brush with OA901 Essence. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe the bisque to remove any dust.
Center the pattern on the plate, bowl or mug. Slide AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern. Trace over the pattern with the pencil.
Take the two AC-220 Detailer Tips and cut off the very end of each tip. Do not cut too much off. You want to cut off small amounts until you see the hole in the end.
Take the two AC-220 bottles and squeeze SC-26 Green Thumb into one (1/2 oz) and SC-74 Hot Tamale into the other bottle (1oz). Screw the tips on the bottles.
Take the bottle with SC-74 Hot Tamale or SC-26 Green Thumb and trace the design.
Take the bottle with the opposite color than used in step 5 (Green Thumb or Hot Tamale) and fill in the trees, leaving a white border around the red line.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-26 Green Thumb or SC-74 Hot Tamale, apply 2 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-704 Speckta-Clear Peppermint, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate and 1 coat to the back. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin a freshly wedged ball of earthenware clay, about the size of a grapefruit.
Separate the clay to create a smaller ball, about the size of a clementine. Set the rest of the clay underneath plastic to retain moisture.
Holding the smaller ball of clay, push thumb into the center of the ball and start pinching. Rotate your piece between pinches to form walls about ¼ of an inch thick all the way around. Smooth any cracks with a damp sponge and lay the pinch pot on its side to begin drying. The mouth of the pot will sag into an oblong shape as it firms up. This will be your frog body! (It’s okay if your pinch pot doesn’t have a perfectly even surface; pinch pots can be lumpy and so can frogs.)
Using clay set aside, roll a 6-inch coil about width of dime and cut into two 3-inch coils with your needle tool.
Carefully bend gentle arches in the middles of your two 3-inch coils to make the shapes of inchworms. Use your finger to smooth and compress both sides of each arch to alleviate any cracks and to prevent cracking during drying and firing. These will be your front frog legs!
Lightly pinch one end of each coil to create flat feet and allow coils to firm up with the arches sitting upright.
Using clay set aside, roll an 8-inch coil about the width of a nickel and cut into two 4-inch coils with your needle tool.
Carefully bend taller arches in the middles of your two 4-inch coils to make the shape of an inchworm. As practiced in Step 5, use your finger to smooth and compress both sides of each arch to alleviate any cracks and to prevent cracking during the drying and firing. These will be your back frog legs!
As practiced in Step 6, lightly pinch one end of each coil to create flat feet and allow coils to firm up with the arches sitting upright.
Using clay set aside, roll an additional 4-inch coil about the width of a nickel. Gradually flatten your coil with wet fingers, as if petting a snake, and curve the flattened coil into a slope. Allow the flattened, sloped coil to firm up while laying on its side to prevent the curve from straightening as it dries. This will be your frog tongue!
Using clay set aside, roll two balls of clay about the size of malted milk balls. These will be your frog eyes! Roll a third, slightly larger ball of clay about the size of a gumball. This will be your fly!
Begin to assemble your frog in the order it was created. Slip and score with your needle tool to attach the legs to the underside of your pinch pot, pressing together gently at first to ensure the placement is correct. Follow by slipping and scoring the tongue into the inside wall. As you firmly join the legs underneath and tongue inside, expect the underside of your pinch pot to flatten a bit.
Slip and score with your needle tool to attach the eyes on top of the body, and the fly on top of the tongue. Press the underside of the tongue as you attach the fly to prevent the slope from flattening. Inspect for any cracks in the joined surfaces that may need to be smoothed.
Use a toothpick to create toes by cutting two notches into each foot. Allow your frog to dry slowly under plastic.
Slap together all remaining clay under the plastic and roll into a slab about 1/4” thick. Use a rib to firmly compress both surfaces of the slab to prevent cracking during drying and firing.
Use your needle tool to cut a circle about 4 ½” in diameter from the slab and cut a wedge from the circle as if cutting a slice of pizza. Run a damp sponge along the cut surfaces to soften sharp edges. This is your lily pad! Allow your lily pad to dry slowly with your frog under plastic.
Underglaze:
Apply 2-3 coats of UG-216 Peach to the tongue of the frog using CB-106 #6 Script Liner.
If using clay that is not white, apply 2-3 coats of UG-51 China White to the front of the eyeballs of the frog using CB-106 #6 Script Liner.
Apply 2-3 coats of UG-22 Spring Green to the body of the frog using CB-602 #2 Soft Fan. Switch to CB-200 #0 Detail when painting a circle around the eyes of the frog.
Use a CB-200 #0 Detail to apply 2-3 coats of UG-209 Jade as irises in the eyes of the frog, then switch to a CB-602 #2 Soft Fan and cover both sides of the lily pad with 2-3 coats of the same color.
5. Apply 2-3 coats of UG-91 True Teal to the inside of the mouth using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, switching to a CB-200 #0 Detail to cover the edge where the tongue rests inside the mouth. Dampen a clean BT-910 Synthetic Sponge and pat the same color around the edges and in the center of the lily pad.
Dampen a clean BT-910 Synthetic Sponge and pat UG-21 Leaf Green on to back of the frog, including the backs of the eyes, as well as on the bends of the legs.
Use the back of a brush to apply polka-dots of UG-68 Apple Green on top of the sponged UG-21 Leaf Green on the frog, and on top of the sponged UG-91 True Teal in the center of the lily pad.
Apply 2-3 coats of UG-50 Jet Black with a CB-106 #6 Script Liner to the body of the fly.
Use the back of a brush to apply two dots of UG-51 China White onto the body of the fly for eyes.
Add pupils into the eyes of the frog and the fly with UG-50 Jet Black using a CB-200 #0 Detail.
Bisque fire both pieces to Cone 04.
Clear:
Dampen a clean BT-910 Synthetic Sponge and wipe bisque to remove debris.
Using a CB-602 #2 Soft Fan, apply two coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing to all surfaces of both the frog and lily pad.
Stilt and fire to Cone 06.
Tips:
Waiting for your pieces to firm up into a leatherhard stage will strengthen them and help to avoid losing shape as they are joined together.
Unless working extremely quickly or in an especially humid environment, keeping earthenware clay under plastic while not in use is critical to keeping it pliable!
Drying finished pieces slowly allows them to dry more evenly. Clay shrinks as it dries, and uneven shrinking causes tension that can cause your piece to crack or even come apart.
All listed measurements can be freely approximated or altered for perfectly successful interpretations of the same design.
Patiently allow your underglaze to dry before applying more coats; do not rapidly dry your underglaze with a fan or hair dryer! This may cause the underglaze to crack and flake.
The use of small brushes is helpful for crisp edges and detail but can cause a streaky appearance when used to cover larger areas. Utilize a larger brush wherever possible for the most even application.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Take an 8.5×11” piece of paper and cut out lengthwise strips. Use the ruler and pencil to make sure they are even. They can be whatever thickness you would like. I used varying thicknesses.
Cut out the plain circle pattern.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 1 coat to the front of the plate.
Take the plain circle pattern and wet the back with a damp sponge. Place the pattern in the center of the plate. Sponge the edges with water to make sure they are down. Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 1 coat over the edges.
Repeat Step #5 with the strips of paper. Place them going across the plate. Use as many as you would like.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-044 Yellow-Orange, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out around 1 TBS of SC-97 Cant-elope and SC-55 Yella Bout It onto the palette. Dip the sponge into SC-97 Cant-elope and lightly sponge the front of the plate. Repeat with SC-55 Yella Bout It.
Carefully remove the pattern before the glaze is bone dry.
Cut out the pattern with the flower inside. Cut around the inner circle. Place the circle in the center of the circle on the plate. Trace around the circle with the pencil.
Using the Script Liner with SC-88 Tu Tu Tango, apply 2 coats to inner circle. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Wait for the inner circle to be dry to the touch. Take the pattern and place it back over the inner circle. Use the pencil to trace over the flower. You should be able to see a faint line in the glaze. Check to make sure you are not pressing too hard or too light.
Using the Script Liner with SC-9 Jaded, apply 2 coats to the 4 large petals of the flower. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-10 Teal Next Time, apply 2 coats to the 4 smaller petals of the flower. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out around 1 TSP of SC-24 Dandelion onto the palette. Dip the pencil eraser in the glaze and press onto the center of the flower to make a dot.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-88 Tu Tu Tango, apply 3 coats to the back and rim of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Dip into NT-CLR Clear One Dipping glaze.
Large App Plate:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Print the 2 patterns. The large one will be used for masking. The small one will be used to trace the design within the pattern.
Use the scissors to cut out each of the 3 sections of the large pattern.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 1 coat to the front of the plate.
Take the center piece from the pattern and wet the back with a damp sponge. Place that piece going down the center of the plate. Sponge the edges with water to make sure they are down. Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 1 coat over the edges.
Repeat Step #5 with the 2 other side pieces of the pattern. Place them evenly between the center pattern and the bottom edge of the plate (where the bottom meets the side).
Using the Soft Fan with FN-043 Bright Jade, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out around 1 TBS of SC-10 Teal Next Time and SC-96 Aqu-ward onto the palette. Dip the sponge into SC-10 Teal Next Time and lightly sponge the front of the plate. Repeat with SC-96 Aqu-ward.
Carefully remove the pattern before the glaze is bone dry.
Take the small pattern and cut out the circle with the flower inside. Place the circle in the center of one of the circles on the plate. Trace around the circle. Repeat until all of the circles on the plate.
Using the Script Liner with SC-24 Dandelion, apply 2 coats to each of the inner circles on the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Wait for the inner circles to be dry to the touch. Take the small pattern and place it back over one of the inner circles. Use the pencil to trace over the flower. You should be able to see a faint line in the glaze. Check to make sure you are not pressing too hard or too light. Repeat for all of the circles.
Using the Script Liner with SC-88 Tu Tu Tango, apply 2 coats to each of the flowers. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out around 1 TSP of SC-10 Teal Next Time onto the palette. Dip the pencil eraser in the glaze and press onto the center of a flower to make a dot. Repeat for all flowers.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-033 Mediterranean Teal, apply 3 coats to the back and rim of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to the wings. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 2 coats to the dress. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the #4 Liner with SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, apply 2 coats to the shoes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the #4 Liner with SC-73 Candy Apple Red, apply 2 coats to the heart. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner and #4 Liner with SC-25 Crackerjack Brown, apply 2 coats to the face, hands, and legs. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner and #4 Liner with SC-34 Down To Earth, apply 2 coats to the hair. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out around 1 TSP of SC-11 Blue Yonder, SC-27 Sour Apple and SC-75 Orange-A-Peel onto the palette. Use the #4 Liner to make lines of these colors going around the bottom of the dress.
Use the pencil to draw dots on the wings, a decorative heart on the heart, eyes, lips and 2 dots for the cheeks.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-73 Candy Apple Red, apply 2 coats to the lips. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out around 1 TSP of SC-2 Melon-Choly onto the palette. Dip the rounded brush handle into the glaze. Press onto the 2 cheek dots.
Squeeze out around 1 TSP of SC-15 Tuxedo onto the palette. Dip the rounded brush handle into the glaze. Press onto the dots on the wings. Make dots on the eyes.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, make a line going through the lips and outline the decorative heart.
Dip into NT-CLR Clear One Dipping glaze.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Open Arms Angel:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the pencil to make a line going around the angel’s waist. This will separate the 2 sections of the dress.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to the bottom half of the dress. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner and #4 Liner with SC-20 Cashew Later, apply 2 coats to the face, hands, and legs. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 2 coats to the wings. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-11 Blue Yonder, apply 2 coats to the top half of the dress. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the #4 Liner with SC-73 Candy Apple Red, apply 2 coats to the shoes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-48 Camel Back, apply 2 coats to the hair. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil to draw swirls on the wings, dots on the shoes and dress, eyes, lips and 2 dots for the cheeks. Draw 2 equally spaced lines going around the bottom half of the dress. Then draw vertical lines between those lines to make a checkered pattern. Make sure you have an even number of squares going around the dress (so you don’t end up with 2 black or white squares right next to each other).
Using the Detail Liner with SC-73 Candy Apple Red, apply 2 coats to the lips. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out around 1 TSP of SC-2 Melon-Choly onto the palette. Dip the rounded brush handle into the glaze. Press onto the 2 cheek dots.
Squeeze out around 1 TSP of SC-15 Tuxedo onto the palette. Dip the rounded brush handle into the glaze. Press onto the dots on the dress and shoes. Make dots on the eyes.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, make a line going through the lips and outline the swirls on the wings.
Using the #4 Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to every other square on the bottom half of the dress. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN-001 White to the top of the canvas. Allow to dry!
Using a pencil, trace on the patter wit AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper under the patter. Glaze needs to be dry for the Clay Carbon Paper will transfer.
Place some of each of the EZ Strokes onto a tile or foam plate for a pallet. If any of the colors are real thick add a drop or two of AS957 Thin N Shade to thin the color to a brushing consistency.
Refer to patter color placement for where each color goes. You can also change the color locations or add additional EZ Strokes.
Using a CB-602 #2 Soft Fan, wet the brush with water, touch a paper towel to remove excess water then lay the brush flat on the pallet and wiggle the brush up to the color to get the color on the brush. Apply the color to the marked area of the flower. You can adjust the color saturation with the amount of color you add to the flower area.
Using a CB-408 #8 Pointed Round, Stroke in the leaves with the colors marked on the color placement page, some have two colors or two coats for color saturation. Also apply the flower centers with EZ 012 Cobalt Jet Black.
Using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, outline, and detail with EZ 012 Cobalt Jet Black.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Using a OB-901G #0 Liner (Gold Handle), detail the design with OG 801 Bright Gold. Clean Brush with OA 901 Essence.
Review all health and safety information for sand. A respirator or other protective equipment may be required. Avoid dust.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 4 coats of FN-304 Black Velvet to the top and sides of the canvas. Allow to dry between each coat.
Using a pencil, trace on the pattern with a sheet of AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SC-16 Cotton Tail to each of the flower petals. For the third coat, mix some Silica Sand into the SC-16 Cotton Tail and stroke in each petal of the flower. (NOTE: Be sure not to use beach sand, it can damage the kiln elements.)
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SC-26 Green Thumb to all stems and to the leaf. For the third coat, mix some Silica Sand into the SC-26 Green Thumb and stroke in each of the stems and the leaf.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SC-42 Butter Me Up to the flower centers. For the third coat, mix some Silica Sand into the SC-42 Butter Me Up and stroke in each of the stems and the leaf.
Allow for all colors to dry!
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, shade the design areas with the following colors: Flower petals and around the flower center with – SC-35 Gray Hare. Flower centers with SC-97 Cant-elope then to the left side with SC-14 Java Bean also add some tine dots over the same area. Stems and leaf – SC-36 Irish Luck. Outline the leaf and stems and vein the leaf with SC-36 Irish Luck with a bit of SC-15 Tuxedo to darken it. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 3 coats to the back of the platter. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Take the pencil and draw a long triangular shape in the center of the platter, coming from the side. See image below.
Using the Soft Fan with CC-108 China Sea, apply 3 coats to the top half (lengthwise) of the triangular shape. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with CC-107 Green Tea, apply 3 coats to the bottom half (lengthwise) of the triangular shape. Make sure to overlap at least ¼” with the glaze from Step #4. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the soft Fan with EL-118 Blue Grotto, apply 2 coats to the portion of the platter above the triangular shape. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Pour around 2 TBS of each of the following glazes onto your palette: EL-103 Sea Spray, EL-118 Blue Grotto, PC-601 Clear Cascade and PC-602 White Cascade. Be sure to label each color because some look similar.
Dip your Soft Fan into PC-602 White Cascade, randomly plop the glaze on the upper portion of the platter glazed in Step #6. Make some plops overlapping the upper side of the triangular shape. Around ¼ of the area should be covered with plops.
Dip the same Soft Fan (without cleaning) into EL-118 Blue Grotto and repeat Step #8. Make sure to overlap your previous plops of glaze.
Dip the same Soft Fan (without cleaning) into EL-103 Sea Spray and repeat Step #8. Make sure to overlap your previous plops of glaze.
Dip the same Soft Fan (without cleaning) into PC-601 Clear Cascade and repeat Step #8. Make sure to overlap your previous plops of glaze.
Pour out around 1 TSP of EL-118 Blue Grotto onto the palette. Dip the Script Liner into water and mix with the glaze. Dip the brush back into the thinned glaze. Take the brush and tap against your finger, above the platter. Make random dots over the top half of the platter. You want some to get into the triangular portion. The top section of the platter is now complete.
Using the soft Fan with EL-208 Moss Creek, apply 2 coats to the portion of the platter below the triangular shape. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Pour around 2 TBS of each of the following glazes onto your palette: EL-103 Sea Spray, EL-208 Moss Creek, PC-601 Clear Cascade and PC-602 White Cascade. Be sure to label each color because some look similar.
Dip your Soft Fan into PC-602 White Cascade, randomly plop the glaze on the lower portion of the platter glazed in Step #13. Make some plops overlapping the lower side of the triangular shape. Around ¼ of the area should be covered with plops.
Dip the same Soft Fan (without cleaning) into EL-208 Moss Creek and repeat Step #15. Make sure to overlap your previous plops of glaze.
Dip the same Soft Fan (without cleaning) into EL-103 Sea Spray and repeat Step #15. Make sure to overlap your previous plops of glaze.
Dip the same Soft Fan (without cleaning) into PC-601 Clear Cascade and repeat Step #15. Make sure to overlap your previous plops of glaze.
Pour out around 1 TSP of EL-208 Moss Creek onto the palette. Dip the Script Liner into water and mix with the glaze. Dip the brush back into the thinned glaze. Take the brush and tap against your finger, above the platter. Make random dots over the bottom half of the platter. You want some to get into the triangular portion. The bottom section of the platter is now complete.
Pour out around 1 TSP FN-009 Black onto the palette. Dip the Script Liner into water and mix with the glaze. Dip the brush back into the thinned glaze. Take the brush and make fast, straight movements over the top of the platter. You might want to practice this with paper. You should be making random lines and dots.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze out around 3 TBS of SC-18 Rosey Posey onto the palette. Add around 1 TSP of water and mix. You are just trying to thin the glaze enough so that it easily soaks into the crevices on the trees.
Using the Soft Fan with thinned SC-18 Rosey Posey, apply 1 coat to the outside of the trees. Allow glaze to dry. Use a damp sponge to remove most of the glaze, leaving it only in the crevices.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-209 Floral Pink, apply 3 coats to the outside of the trees. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Using the Filbert with OG-801 Bright Gold, apply 1 even coat to the tip and base of the trees.
Fire to cone 018.
Using the Shader with OG-803 MOP Brush-On, apply 1 coat to the trees. Swirl the brush in circles as you apply the MOP.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze out around 1 TBS of SC-87 Ruby Slippers onto the palette. Thin with around ½ TSP of water. Just enough so that it flows easily into the texture on the large tree.
Using the Soft Fan with thinned SC-87 Ruby Slippers, apply 1 coat over the textured area of the large tree. Allow glaze to dry. Use a damp sponge to wipe off most of the glaze, leaving it only in the crevices.
Using the Soft Fan with CC-102 White, apply 3 coats to the textured area of the large tree (not the tip or base). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-87 Ruby Slippers, apply 3 coats to the tip and base of the large tree. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Wait 1 day after firing before moving to step #8 for the maximum number of crackles.
Using the shader with SS-138 Flat Black, apply 1 coat over the texture area of the large tree. Before the paint dries, wipe it off with a damp sponge and paper towels. You should be able to see the tiny cracks in the glaze.
Medium Tree:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze out around 1 TBS of SC-29 Blue Grass onto the palette. Thin with around ½ TSP of water. Just enough so that it flows easily into the texture on the medium tree.
Using the Soft Fan with thinned SC-29 Blue Grass, apply 1 coat over the textured area of the medium tree. Allow glaze to dry. Use a damp sponge to wipe off most of the glaze, leaving it only in the crevices.
Using the Soft Fan with CC-108 China Sea, apply 3 coats to the textured area of the medium tree (not the tip or base). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-29 Blue Grass, apply 3 coats to the tip and base of the medium tree. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Wait 1 day after firing before moving to step #8 for the maximum number of crackles.
Using the shader with SS-138 Flat Black, apply 1 coat over the texture area of the medium tree. Before the paint dries, wipe it off with a damp sponge and paper towels. You should be able to see the tiny cracks in the glaze.
Small Tree:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze out around 1 TBS of SC-8 Just Froggy onto the palette. Thin with around ½ TSP of water. Just enough so that it flows easily into the texture on the small tree.
Using the Soft Fan with thinned SC-8 Just Froggy, apply 1 coat over the textured area of the small tree. Allow glaze to dry. Use a damp sponge to wipe off most of the glaze, leaving it only in the crevices.
Using the Soft Fan with CC-107 Green Tea, apply 3 coats to the textured area of the small tree (not the tip or base). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-8 Just Froggy, apply 3 coats to the tip and base of the small tree. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Wait 1 day after firing before moving to step #8 for the maximum number of crackles.
Using the shader with SS-138 Flat Black, apply 1 coat over the texture area of the small tree. Before the paint dries, wipe it off with a damp sponge and paper towels. You should be able to see the tiny cracks in the glaze.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-149 Lavender Flower, apply 3 coats to the large tree. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with PC-601 Clear Cascade, apply random “plops” of glaze to the top half of the large tree. Allow glaze to dry.
Using the Soft Fan with CG-993 Lavender Sprigs, apply 2 coats to the top half of the large tree. The bottom edge of your coats should be irregular, not a straight line going around the tree. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with PC-601 Clear Cascade, apply a few random “plops” of glaze to the top half of the large tree.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Medium Tree:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-130 Sea Green, apply 3 coats to the medium tree. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with PC-601 Clear Cascade, apply random “plops” of glaze to the top half of the medium tree. Allow glaze to dry.
Using the Soft Fan with CG-996 Spring Rain, apply 2 coats to the top half of the medium tree. The bottom edge of your coats should be irregular, not a straight line going around the tree. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with PC-601 Clear Cascade, apply a few random “plops” of glaze to the top half of the medium tree.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Small Tree:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-127 Rose Granite, apply 3 coats to the small tree. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with PC-601 Clear Cascade, apply random “plops” of glaze to the top half of the small tree. Allow glaze to dry.
Using the Soft Fan with CG-995 Foggy Mist, apply 2 coats to the top half of the small tree. The bottom edge of your coats should be irregular, not a straight line going around the tree. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with PC-601 Clear Cascade, apply a few random “plops” of glaze to the top half of the small tree.
On a tile, thin some SC-41 Brown Cow 1:1 with water. Use CB-604 Soft Fan to apply to the middle section. Let dry. Use a damp Synthetic Sponge to wipe back the highlight on the basket weave.
Apply SC-34 Down To Earth to the rope sections on the tree. Use the damp Synthetic Sponge to highlight the ropes.
Thin slightly SC-51 Poo Bear and apply 2 coats using CB-404 Pointed Round in a dry brush technique over the basket weave middle section.
To the rope trims apply 2 thin wash coats of SC-14 Java Bean using CB-404 Pointed Round.
To the base of the tree apply 3 coats of SC-36 Irish Luck. Let dry.
Apply 1-2 coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing over the entire tree using CB-604 Soft Fan. Apply an extra coat to the finial cap on the tree.
Medium Tree
On a tile, thin some SC-36 Irish Luck 1:1 with water and apply it to the six panels on the tree. Use a damp Synthetic Sponge to wipe back the highlights. Apply 2 coats of SC-27 Sour Apple in a dry brush technique using CB-404 Pointed Round to every other panel over the green antiquing. To the other three panels apply SC-52 Toad-ily Green in a dry brush manner.
To the rope trim apply 1 thin coat of SC-34 Down To Earth using CB-404 Pointed Round. Wipe back the highlights with a damp Synthetic Sponge. Apply 2 thin coats of SC-25 Cracker Jack over the rope trim sections.
To the vertical trim between the panels apply 2 thin coats of SC-51 Poo Bear using CB-404 Pointed Round.
To the base of the tree apply 3 coats of SC-34 Down to Earth using CB-404 Pointed Round. Let dry.
Apply 1-2 coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing over the entire tree using CB-604 Soft Fan. Apply an extra coat to the finial cap on the tree.
Large Tree
On a tile, thin some SC-34 Down to Earth 1:1 with water and using CB-604 Soft Fan to the entire tree. Use a damp Synthetic Sponge to wipe back the highlights. Use CB-404 Pointed Round to dry brush 3 coats of SC-51 Poo Bear to the basket weave sections. Paint on 2-3 coats of SC-51 Poo Bear to the vertical and “X” sections of trim.
To the rope sections apply 2 thin coats of SC-14 Java Bean using CB-404 Pointed Round.
To the panels between the “X” sections on the tree paint in 1 thin coat of SC-36 Irish Luck using CB-110 Liner.
To the base apply 3 coats of SC-41 Brown Cow using CB-404 Pointed Round. Let dry.
Apply 1-2 Coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing using CB-604 Soft Fan over the entire tree. Apply an extra coat to the finial cap on the tree.
All 3 trees
Stilt and Fire all pieces to Shelf Cone 05-06.
Clean the tree finial caps with Denatured Alcohol using a lint free cloth. Let dry. Apply 1 coat of OG-805 Premium Gold to the finials using OB-916G Filbert. Clean the brush using OG-901 Essence designated for Gold.
With provided pattern, clay carbon and red pen or pencil, trance the design onto the ware. Arrange the cookies as desired and one cookie may overlap another. Be sure to trace the word cookie and the scroll. The pine needles do not need to be tranced. Use the photograph as a guide for placement.
Cut the stencils out using the cookie patterns, X-acto knife, stencil paper or index card. Center each cookie cutter pattern on stencil paper or index card, place the two on a glazed tile and with the X-acto knife cut through both the pattern and the paper. Carefully remove the cut center and retain both.
Note: The Negative Stencil is the part with the opening cut-out. The negative is used to place colors on the ware. The Positive Stencil is the part you have cut-out of the stencil. The positive protects the area to be painted.
When completing two cookies that overlap (in this case the tree over the bell and the star overlaps the holly leaf). You will be using both a negative and positive portion of the stencil. For the tree with the bell; place bell negative on the ware. Slide the tree positive stencil over the corner of the bell.
Place the EZ-Strokes as needed on the page protector palette, thin with water if color is extremely thick
Firmly hold stencils in place.
a. Using a slightly damp sponge pick up Sienna Brown and pat off excess color on clean area of palette. With a gently pouncing motion, sponge in the Sienna Brown through the opening in the stencil. Create a textured appearance.
b. Proceed to pick up Medium Mahogany on a clean area of the sponge. Very lightly sponge a lacey coat of the Medium Mahogany over the previously applied Sienna Brown.
c. Pick up a small amount of French Brown on the sponge proceed to add this deeper color around the cut edge of the stencil.
d. Carefully remove both positive tree and the negative bell.
e. Align the tree negative stencil, so that the opening butts-up to the bell. Repeat steps a, b and c.
f. When the tree stencil is removed, the tree should appear to be overlapping the bell.
g. The star and holly leaf are completed in the same manner.
h. The remaining cookie stencils are completed just using the negative portion (stencil with opening.
Complete lettering with Cobalt Jet Black, #1 Detail and #2 Detail Liner. Carefully fill in each letter, with two thin coats of color.
On the palette squeeze out Red Designer Liner, thin slightly and fully load #2 Detail Liner with color. Generally following the pattern, pull in the scroll work to the left and right sides of pizza stone.
The cookies are decorated by using the Designer Liners. You can decorate the cookies as desired. For this sample, various colors were used. You may choose only to use white to achieve a white icing appearance.
On the palette squeeze out both Green and Bright Green Designer Liner and thin with water to brushing consistency. Fully load the #10/0 Mini Liner with both thinned greens and pull in pine needles through out the design. Pine needles are pulled out from the edge of the cookies.
Add a smooth outline here and there along the outer edge of cookies with thinned Cobalt Jet Black. Again, using Liner of choice.
Fire the piece to cone 04 to set the color. Thus avoiding any chance of smearing when the Clear Glaze is applied.
Damp sponge ware to condition the piece for glazing.
Pour about one ounce of Clear (cone 5-10) into a paper cup. With a dampened #8 Soft Fan, apply two coats to the top surface of the Pizza Stone (now a cookie baking sheet). The side of the ware and the back side of ware should remain free of any glaze.
If available spread a thin layer of Aluminum Hydrate or Silica Sand on a clean full kiln shelf.
Place the glazed ware onto the self.
Fire the ware to shelf cone 6.
Wipe off any Aluminum Hydrate from the back of the piece.
Remove the shelf with the Aluminum Hydrate and vacuum the kiln.
Check the piece over for blemishes and sand with 100-grit sand paper if any are present.
Damp Sponge ware to remove any fired dust and to condition for decorating.
Into a paper cup pour about one to two ounces of UG-30 Sand. If the UG-30 Sand is extremely thick add water to thin to a smooth creamy brushing consistency.
Fully load Glaze Fan with UG-30 Sand and apply over the front and backside of the ware. Allow color to set between coats and apply as smoothly as possible. Be sure to work out any ridges of color as the underglaze is applied.
Allow to dry thoroughly before proceeding.
Using the provided simple pattern, the clay carbon and red pen, trace the design to the front of the basecoated ware. If the painted ware has dried sufficiently, you will easily see the pattern and the ware will not be scored (indented) by the tracing with the pen. Note: the red pen helps keep track of the parts of the design that have been traced. Also, a red pencil may have too soft of lead for the tracing to be seen, therefore, the need for the red pen.
Instructions for loading the Flat Shader for floating of color. For this project we will half load (side load) the Shader and corner load the Shader.
Dampen the Flat Shader with water.
Tap the wet brush onto a paper towel and allow the water to seep out the brush on to the towel. (This will remove excess water.)
Side load the left side of the Flat Shader with desired color. In this case UG-213 Cinnamon. It is best to load the darker color to the left side of the Shader. By doing this you will always know the shading color is to your left. The brush can be turned over to shade in the opposite direction.
Once side loaded and using the brush on the flat, blend on clean area of palette.
If completed correctly the left side of the stroke will have color and gradually fade away on the right side of the brush.
When doing the stroke, always use the brush on the flat to achieve a good soft float of color.
When the instruction calls for a corner loaded float of color, the procedure remain the same as above, however, only about 1/8th of the left corner is loaded with color. In this case UG-31 Chocolate. Be sure and blend the color and water on the palette.
Side load the #8 Flat shader with UG-213 Cinnamon and blend on palette. Using the detail pattern as a guide, begin to float in color throughout the design. Shading is being added to areas where one petal covers another petal or leaf. Note: The leaves also have a float of UG-213 Cinnamon down one side of the middle vein. Allow to dry.
Be sure to add some floating of color to the center, thus creating some shadowing.
Proceed to corner load the #8 Shader with UG-31 Chocolate and add an additional float of color over the UG-213 Cinnamon.
On the palette thin EZ010 French Brown to light cream consistency with water and mix with palette knife.
Fully load #10/0 Liner with the EZ-010 French Brown and with a smooth flowing outline, detailing the entire pattern. The leaves have side veins; whereas the poinsettia petals only have a middle vein. Also, define detail in the small pistols and stamens to the center of the flower.
Scroll work is pulled out from the edges of leaves as shown on the pattern using the EZ010French Brown.
Sign the piece.
Place on kiln shelf and fire to cone 04.
Damp sponge ware to condition the piece for glazing and to remove any fired dust.
Place one to two ounces of Matte Clear in a 3 oz paper cup and thin slight (if needed with water).
With Glaze Fan apply two to three thinned coats of the Matte Clear to the entire plate.
When dry, stilt ware and fire to shelf cone 06.
Remove stilt marks.
Gold Overglaze Instructions
Wipe the piece down with 91% rubbing alcohol and allow drying. This will remove any hand film from the ware.
Place a small amount of the Premium Gold Overglaze on the glaze tile. Please, note the Premium Gold Overglaze is Red in color.
Fully load the #0 Liner with the overglaze.
Holding the loaded Liner straight up, add a single gold line down the center vein of all the petals and leaves. Slightly accent detail the pistols and stamen with fine gold out-lining.
The leaves are partially accented with fine lines of gold here and there along their edges. The scroll work has accents of gold as well.
To achieve an even band of color around the plate’s rim complete as follows.
Use a cotton swab.
Press any loose fibers back into the swab.
Carefully dip the cotton swab into the gold.
Firmly place the gold loaded cotton swab along the edge of the plate and slowly press and pull the cotton swap along the rim.
Reload as needed and try to keep the pressure the same as the gold is applied to the rim. Take your time when applying the overglaze.
Check the bisque over for any blemishes and remove any by lightly sanding with fine sandpaper.
Using the provided pattern, the clay carbon and a pen/pencil trace the design onto the ware.
Damp sponge the ware to remove any fired dust and to condition the piece for decorating. The damp sponging will not harm the traced design.
Make a copy of the simple pattern. Using this copy cut out the mountain range along the top edge that meets the sky.
Place the Stroke ‘n Coats as needed on the palette and thin if needed if color is extremely thick.
Complete the sky area as follows with Cotton Tail, My Blue Heaven, Peri-Twinkle and Blue Dawn.
Align the top of the cutout mountain range with the traced pattern. Dampen the area under the paper cut out and dampen the piece of paper. The wetness will help secure the paper mountain range to the bisque. Thus, protecting the traced mountain range from color.
Dampen a sponge and remove all excess water.
Pick up Cotton Tail with sponge, pounce two coats to the denoted circle on the pattern. Sponging creates a slightly textured surface. Do not rinse the sponge out.
Pick up My Blue Heaven, proceed to sponge color around the Cotton Tail and along the edge of the cutout pattern. Work this color from papers edge upward about 1/3rd of the way into the sky area. Apply two coats Do not rinse sponge. Proceed to pick up Peri-Twinkle and blend this color down into the My Blue Heaven and upward another 1/3rd. Keep sponging the color onto the ware, blending out all sharp lines of color. Again, two coats will be needed. Do not rinse sponge.
The remaining sky area is completed by sponge Blue Dawn from the top of plate downward into the My Blue Heaven. Again, the color is blended into the previously applied color and two coats are needed.
Allow the sky colors to set.
Carefully resketch in the large tree with pencil.
With a Sgraffito Tool or Cleanup Tool remove the sky colors form the sketched tree, thus exposing the bisque.
The mountain range is applied next using the following colors Cotton Tail, Silver Lining, Gray Hare and Char-ming. Use the #8 Shader and #2 Detail Liner. If having difficulty with the #8 Shader use the #6 Pointed Round.
Following the contour of the individual mountain section, block in a basecoat of Silver Lining. Apply the color so that you can determine the individual segments or the range. Do not paint the mountains over the sketched in tree.
Proceed to fully load Silver Lining and corner load with Cotton Tail on to the #8 Shader Keeping the Cotton Tail to the upper edge of the Mountain, blending over the previously applied Silver Lining. Repeat the highlighting here and there along the mountain’s top and outer edges. Work out all ridges of color.
Again, fully load the #8 Shader with Silver Lining and side load with Gray Hare. Blend the two colors on a clean area of palette. Pull in shading along the bottom edge of the mountain range and upward along one or two sides of the mountain. Refer to the provided detailed pattern for placement of this darker color. Please note: This shading will help define the mountain segments.
Keep working the shading colors over the entire mountain range.
Water dampen the #8 Shader and remove excess water. Corner load with Char-ming and blend on clean area of palette. . Again, referring to the provided detail pattern, float in additional shading to the mountain, thus enhancing the ridges and peaks of the mountain range. Note: make sure all the colors look blended and soft when finished.
Thin the Char-ming down and fully load the Mini Liner with the thinned color. Proceed to detail the mountains with thick and thin fine broken lines.
To complete the snowfield, use Cotton Tail, Peri-Twinkle and Blue Dawn and the #8 Shader.
Work the fields in by sections. The sections are numbered for reference with their application. Start with snowfield to the left of the design, #1. Work across the plate and downward. As each section is applied. Be sure to keep the tree free of color.
Fully load the Shader with the Cotton Tail and smoothly block in the section.
Let the Cotton Tail set for a minute or two.
Fully load the Shader again with Cotton Tail, side load with Peri-Twinkle and corner load the same side of the Shader with Blue Dawn. Pat blend on clean area of palette. Begin to add shading to the lower edge of each section. As the shading is applied reload as needed and proceed to apply a full second coat of Cotton Tail above the shaded area. If color appears too pronounced soften with Cotton Tail.
When all the snow has been applied, thin Blue Dawn, fully load the Mini-Liner and with fine broken lines accent detail the individual section of the snow field.
On the Palette place Tiger Tail, Cracker Jack, Camel Back and Down to Earth. These colors may need thinning. It seems that the families of brown have a tendency to thicken. Therefore, they may need thinning. The large tree, and the branches of the two berry bushes will be completed in brown tones. Complete the tree as follows with #6 Pointed Round, #2 Detailed Liner and Mini Liner.
Block in the tree with a smooth solid coat of Tiger Tail.
Fully load the Round with Tiger Tail and side load with Cracker Jack. Proceed to apply colors to both sides of the tree trunk and to lower side of the larger branches
The same shading can be deepened with Camel Back. As shading colors are added try to achieve a bark like appearance.
With thinned Down to Earth fully loaded on the Mini-Liner proceed to detail the tree on both sides, pull out tinier wispy branches from the bolder larger branches.
Liner of choice, pull in the branches to the two berry bushes with one to two coats of the thinned Down to Earth.
With the thinned Down to Earth and Mini Liner pull in the various clusters of dried grass through out the design. Grass should be of varying lengths and thickness. Note the grass in the foreground should be much longer than the grasses that are represented closer to the mountains.
Sign the piece with Down to Earth
Place Tu Tu Tango and Candy Apple Red on the palette. Using the pointed end of a brush handle, a stylist or/and pencil point, tab in many dots of these two colors over the branches to the bittersweet berry bushes.
Allow project to dry 24-hours before glazing.
Place Crystal Clear Brushing into the paper cup. If need thin slightly with water.
Using Soft Fan apply two to three flowing coats of the clear over the entire plate.
Allow to dry thoroughly.
Stilt ware and fired to shelf cone 06.
With Stilt Stone or Dremel Tool remove stilt marks.
Form
MB-102 Coupe Dinner Plate
MB-103 Coupe Salad Plate
Colors
SC-5 Tiger Tail
SC-16 Cotton Tail
SC-25 Cracker Jack
SC-30 Blue Dawn
SC-34 Down to Earth
SC-35 Gray Hare
SC-45 My Blue Heaven
SC-48 Camel Back
SC-60 Silver Lining
SC-65 Peri-Twinkle
SC-73 Candy Apple Red
SC-88 Tu Tu Tango
SC-99 Char-ming
S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing
Decorating Accessories
CB-110 Mini Liner
CB-202 #2 Detail Liner
CB-308 #8 Shader
CB-406 #6 Pointed Round
CB-618 Soft Fan
AC-230 Clay Carbon Transfer Paper
Miscellaneous Accessories
3 oz. paper cup
Fine Sand paper
Glaze tile for Palette or Heavy Duty Plastic Page Protector
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the pencil to outline the pattern onto the inner “stitched” portion of the mug. Refer to the patterns below. The reindeer will be on one side of the mug and Santa will be on the other side.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, SC-27 Sour Apple, SC-73 Candy Apple Red, SC-48 Camel Back, and SC-15 Tuxedo apply 2 coats to each of the corresponding sections on the reindeer pattern. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Use colors in that order (light to dark) to get the best coverage between sections.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, SC-20 Cashew Later, SC-27 Sour Apple, SC-73 Candy Apple Red, and SC-15 Tuxedo apply 2 coats to each of the corresponding sections on the Santa pattern. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Use colors in that order (light to dark) to get the best coverage between sections.
Using the Script Liner with SC-73 Candy Apple Red, apply 2 coats to the top and bottom sections of the mug, including the bottom. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-8 Just Froggy, apply 2 coats to the border stitches and handle. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-704 Speckta-Clear Peppermint, apply 2 coats to the inside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply 1 coat to the outside of the mug.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the pencil the outline the pattern onto the inner “stitched” portion of the mug. Refer to the patterns below. The Santa suit will be on one side of the mug and Elf suit will be on the other side.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-73 Candy Apple Red and SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to each of the corresponding sections on the Santa suit pattern. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Use colors in that order (light to dark) to get the best coverage between sections.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-27 Sour Apple, SC-73 Candy Apple Red and SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to each of the corresponding sections on the Elf suit pattern. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Use colors in that order (light to dark) to get the best coverage between sections.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to the border stitches and handle. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-8 Just Froggy, apply 2 coats to the upper and lower sections of the mug, including the bottom. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-704 Speckta-Clear Peppermint, apply 2 coats to the inside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply 1 coat to the outside of the mug.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the pencil the outline the pattern onto the inner “stitched” portion of the mug. Refer to the patterns below. Each tree pattern with be on different sides of the mug. The patterns are the same, but the colors of the trees are different.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-27 Sour Apple, SC-26 Green Thumb, SC-73 Candy Apple Red and SC-48 Camel Back, apply 2 coats to each of the corresponding sections on the patterns. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Use colors in that order (light to dark) to get the best coverage between sections.
Using the Script Liner with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 2 coats to the upper and lower sections of the mug, including the bottom. Apply 2 coats to the handle. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-8 Just Froggy, apply 2 coats to the stitching around the border. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-704 Speckta-Clear Peppermint, apply 2 coats to the inside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply 1 coat to the outside of the mug.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan SC-46 Rawhide, apply 3 coats to the pumpkin. Do not glaze the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil to draw the giraffe spots. They are just closely fitting irregular shapes. Try to make them a variety of sizes.
Using the Script Liner with SC-5 Tiger Tail, apply 2 coats to each spot. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 3 coats to the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Round Hammered Pumpkin (leopard)
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan SC-46 Rawhide, apply 3 coats to the pumpkin. Do not glaze the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-25 Crackerjack Brown, apply large dots (around the size of a dime) to the pumpkin. Space them out so they will not overlap.
Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, make an irregular outline around each dot. Try to make them different so they do not look the same.
Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 3 coats to the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Squatty Pumpkin (tiger)
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-5 Tiger Tail, apply 3 coats to the pumpkin. Do not glaze the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil to draw the tiger stripes.
Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the stripes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with 46 Rawhide, apply 3 coats to the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
On the canvas material, roll out a slab of clay using the two ¼” Wooden Slats and the Rolling Pin. Smooth the textured surface from the canvas with the Rubber Rib if necessary.
Cut out a piece slightly larger than the shape of the mold. Drape the clay down into the Negative (Slump) portion of the mold. Use a dry sponge to gently coax the clay down into the cavity of the mold. Once the clay is into the mold, use the dry sponge to compress the shape into the mold. Use a Fettling Knife to trim along the top of the mold the excess clay leaving it flush with the top surface of the mold. Roll out a coil of clay about 3/8” in diameter and long enough to encircle the inside of the clay form. Score (texture) the inner lip and apply slip to the area. Attach the coil around the inner edge of the oval form webbing the clay pieces together. Let set for a few minutes. Remove the form from the mold and invert to sit on a flat surface.
Repeat Step 2 but don’t remove the form from the mold. Score (texture) the edges of both sections and apply a generous lather of slip to the textured areas. Align and apply the first section to the one in the mold and gently but firmly press the two halves together. Once the pieces are completely together, remove from the mold. Use a Modeling Tool to smooth and web the clay seam together to form an oval shape. You can use one of the flat ¼” Slats to gently “paddle” the shape to further form it if necessary. Once the shapes have been put together and the seams have been fused, pierce a hole with the Needle Tool into the top side of the oval form. This will allow you to deform the bottom of the piece without splitting the seam by allowing the air to escape. Once the bottom has been flattened, seal the small needle hole, this will aid in keeping the oval shape.
Cut out two pieces of clay using the pattern for the ears. Fold them creating a center fold. Bend them slightly and allow to set for a few minutes to firm up before attaching them to the oval body. Score (texture) the ear bases and body where you want to attach them. Apply some slip/slurry to each piece and attach. Web the clay into the piece and blending the clay into the body. You may need to add some clay to help reinforce the ear attachments. Blend and smooth these areas using a Modeling Tool and Rubber Rib.
Use the Clean Up Tool to cut out an opening between the ears. You may need to use the Rubber Rib to further smooth the overall surface of the piece. Let the piece dry to leather hard
consistency. Check the inside seams to make sure they are fused well and to smooth up before it dries further.
Clean up the surface and other areas of the rabbit with various Modeling Tools. Drape loosely with a plastic bag to allow the piece to dry slowly.
Before painting, check the piece to make sure it is completely dry. Use the Clean Up Tool to refine any area that needs attention. Use a damp Synthetic Sponge to wipe down the piece.
If your clay isn’t “white” you can apply 2-3 coats of UG-51 China White to the front side (tummy area) of your rabbit. Let dry.
Note*** This step can be omitted if you want and are careful about applying the color around the tummy area. Use a Pencil to mark off the tummy section of the rabbit. Condition CB-604 Soft Fan with Liquid Detergent. Place some AC-302 Wax Resist on a piece of Aluminum Foil. Apply 1 good coat of AC-302 Wax Resist to the tummy area. Wash Brush in warm soapy water after use. Let the piece dry.
Apply 3 smooth even coats of a Fundamental Underglaze of your choice to the bunny excluding the tummy area. Try not to get any of the color onto the wax area. The color should bead up and roll away from the waxed areas. Use a damp Synthetic Sponge to remove any color off the wax.
Draw in the features on the bunny with a Pencil. Use CB-110 Liner to paint in the face using UG-50 Jet Black
Make sure the piece is completely dry before firing. Fire the piece to Shelf Cone 04. Allow extra venting time during the first part of the bisque firing process due to the wax burning off the ware.
Place some AC-302 Wax Resist on a piece of Aluminum Foil. Dampen the Natural Sea Wool Sponge and then dip it into the Wax Resist. Print (Veil) a pattern of wax over the body of the rabbit excluding the face, tummy and inside of the ears. Let dry. Wash Sponge with Liquid Detergent and cool water immediately after use.
Thin some S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing into a Plastic Cup to a melted ice cream consistency. While working quickly, pour the thinned glaze into the vase rotating to completely cover the inside of the vase. Pour out excess glaze and invert to drain and dry. Apply 2-3 coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing to the entire outside of the bunny. You will notice that the glaze will bead up over the waxed areas. This is what it is supposed to happen. Do not wipe off excess glaze from the wax areas. Let dry.
Stilt and Fire to Shelf Cone 05-06. Allow extra venting time during the first part of the firing process due to the wax burning off.
Form
Approx. 4-5 lbs Moist low-fire Clay, slip or slurry made from the same clay used
Cut out the pattern around the edge for ease of transfer. Center and transfer the pattern onto the damp Leather Hard greenware using a Ball Point Pen over the pattern. You want to press hard enough to transfer the pattern on to the wet greenware but not deform the piece.
Place the ware onto a Banding Wheel for ease of working on the piece. When cutting out the fret work, always try to cut towards solid areas when possible. Use either a Scapple or Fret Tool to cut the design out. A Clean Up Tool has too large of a blade to do the intricate detail. Start with the finer cutout areas in the trees and windows of the church, then move onto the middle areas and work out to the outer edges of the pattern. Take your time and try to cut into the ware at a right angle to the ware. Let the piece dry.
Using a Clean Up Tool to remove the seam lines in a diagonal motion. Use the Green Grit Cloth to refine and remove any flaws in the ware. Be care when using the Grit Cloth around the cutout areas as they are delicate and easily broken. Use CB-802 Round Brush dipped in water to clean out any of the finer cutouts in the pattern. Be care not to over wet any of these areas when cleaning the design. Gently remove any sharp edges inside of the design area. Let Dry.
Wipe down the piece with a moistened Synthetic Sponge being careful over the cutout areas. Make sure no debris is in the inside of the piece.
Fire the piece to Shelf Cone 04.
Wipe out the inside of the ware with a moistened Synthetic Sponge to remove any dust and debris. Be careful when doing this to not break off any of the design.
Using CB-604 Soft Fan to apply 3 coats of SP-212 Speckled Moody Blue to the inside of the piece. Be careful applying the color to where it doesn’t come through any of the cutout areas in the pattern. Use water and CB-802 Round to remove any glaze that may have come through onto the front of the pattern or cutout areas. Make sure no blue is left on the outside of the ware. Let Dry.
Use CB-602 Soft Fan and CB-604 Soft Fan to apply 3-4 smooth even coats of S-301 Marshmallow White to the outside of the ware excluding the top rim and flange, bottom trim and bottom and the handle knobs. The smaller fan brush will help you get into the finer cutout areas of the pattern.
Use CB-404 Pointed Round or CB-604 Soft Fan to apply 2-3 Coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing to the unpainted top flange and trim and bottom trim, bottom of can and to the handle knobs. Let dry.
Stilt and Fire the piece to Shelf Cone 05-06.
Use Denatured Alcohol and a lint free cloth to clean the ware before applying Fired White Gold Luster. Let dry. Use OB-916W #6 Filbert to apply 1 even coat of OG-802 White Gold to top trim and flange, bottom trim (not the actual bottom of ware) and to the handle knobs. Let dry. Clean the brush with OG-901 Essence designated for the White Gold (Silver) only.
Stilt and Fire the ware to Shelf Cone 018
Form
CD1404 Gallon Paint Can (Leather Hard (wet) Greenware)
Remove the seams with the Clean Up Tool in a diagonal motion across the seam line. Use the Green Grit Cloth to further smooth the seam line. With a dampened Synthetic Sponge remove any dust and debris from the ware.
Use a Pencil and AC-230 Clay Carbon to transfer the pattern to the wings. Some of the pattern can be freehanded.
Use the Sgraffito Tool to incise the lines of the pattern. Do not try to carve the depth you want in one pass of the tool. Start out slowly and gently carve into the pattern. Continue carving over the lines to get an even width and depth to all the lines. Use the Duster Brush to remove any dust and debris from the ware.
Use the Wire Texture Tool to incise the fine lines to the back of the head and to the two sections on the wings. You might need to moisten the ware first to adequately create the fine texture with the tool. Use the Duster Brush to remove any dust and debris.
Fire the piece to Cone 04.
To the front stomach feathers apply a “V” line across the lower part of each of SC-15 Tuxedo using CB-110 Liner. One side should be heavier than the other.
Apply 2-3 coats of FN-203 Dry Champagne to the entire piece using CB-604 Soft Fan.
On a tile mix a 1:1 ratio of FD-258 Pure White with SC-16 Cottontail using the Pallet Knife. To the noted wing sections and feathers on the head from the pattern, apply 2 coats of the mixture using CB-110 Liner.
Stilt and Fire to Shelf Cone 05-06.
Clean the piece with Denatured Alcohol and a lint free cloth and let it dry thoroughly. Use the pattern as a guide to apply the OG802 White Gold and OG805 Premium Gold using a separate designated brushes for each Metallic Luster. Larger areas on the White gold use the larger OB-916W Filbert brush. It may be easier to apply some of the Metallic Lusters to a portion of the piece, let that dry to ease in the application to where you don’t smear the wet color. The feet and beak are OG805 Premium Gold. Lower sections to the eye are OG802 White Gold. Clean the brushes using OG901 Essence designated for each Luster. Do not use the same bottle of Essence for both brushes as you will contaminate the brushes and Essence.
Use a small piece of a Silk Decorating Sponge dipped into the OG805 Premium Gold to veil a fine lacy pattern around the eyes and the outer edges of the facial feathers.
Stilt and Fire the piece to Shelf Cone 018
Form
CD-1285 Large Owl Jar (Greenware cast slightly heavier than normal)
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove debris.
Apply blended bands of UG-92 Lilac, UG-87 Regal Purple, and UG-93 Wild Violet into the inside of the bowl. Keep UG-92 Lilac in the center and UG-93 Wild Violet in the outer edge, with UG-87 Regal Purple in the middle. *Use of a banding wheel is extremely helpful but not required. Easiest blending occurs while colors are wet. Brush water over the underglaze if it dries as you are still blending*
Copy hydrangea pattern twice onto transfer paper, and transfer the hydrangea pattern twice into the inside of the bowl, overlapping slightly. *Using two different colors of markers to transfer the pattern may be helpful in visualizing the overlap. Trimming away excess transfer paper from edges of pattern will reduce any crinkling*
Pour UG-3 Baby Blue into AC-219 Designer Bottle with Writer Tip and cover one hydrangea, leaving the centers of the flowers. Let dry.
Pour UG-2 Sea Blue into AC-219 Designer Bottle with Writer Tip and cover the second hydrangea. Let dry.
Using SG-407 Yellow, cover the centers of the flower. Let dry.
Cover inside of the bowl with 2 coats of SW-001 Stoneware Clear.
Apply 3 generous coats of SW-170 Blue Hydrangea to the rim and underside of the bowl.
Dampen a clean BT-910 Synthetic Sponge to wipe away all excess glaze from the foot.
Note: UNDERGLAZE IN POWDER FORM IS A RESPIRATORY HAZARD. THIS TECHNIQUE REQUIRES USE OF RESPIRATORY PROTECTION.
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove debris.
Apply a generous even coat of UG-218 Pear Green to outside of pan. Let dry.
Apply a speckling of dots with SG-408 Orange over the UG-218 Pear Green.
Apply a generous even coat of UG-91 True Teal over the outside of pan. Let dry.
Apply a speckling of dots with SG-409 Bright Green. Let dry.
Apply a generous even coat of UG-50 Jet Black over the outside of pan. Let dry. *Be sure it has dried completely, this technique will not work if there is any moisture remaining in underglaze*
While wearing a respirator in a well-ventilated space, carefully use sandpaper to sand the outside of the pan, revealing layers of underglaze and dots underneath, being mindful of leaving outer layer visible. For this design, keep all sandpaper motion horizontal. Fold sandpaper for more precision. Brush away all underglaze debris with a DB-805 #3 Fan Dry Brush.
Apply 2 coats of SW-004 Zinc-Free Clear to outside of pan.
Apply 3 coats of SW-129 Copper Float to inside of pan and handles.
Use a clean sponge to wipe away all excess glaze from the foot.
Wipe down the plate with a slightly moistened Synthetic Sponge to remove any dust and debris.
Use AC-230 Clay Carbon and a Pencil to transfer the pattern onto the ware. Use the pattern twice to complete the full design of 8 feathers.
Use the 1 ¼ “Sponge on a Stick to apply 2-3 coats of SC-11 Blue Yonder to the large portion of the peacock feather eye.
Use the ½ “Sponge on a Stick to apply 2 coats of SC-32 Bluebeard to the top of the peacock eye (pupil) center. You can use a brush to make it a tear drop shape along the bottom edge of the eye (pupil).
To the side portions on the peacock eye apply 3 coats of SC-97 Can’t-elope using CB-110 Liner. Completely load the brush to where the color is almost dripping off.
Use CB-110 Liner loaded to where the color is almost dripping off the brush to apply 3 coats of SC-27 Sour Apple to the feather’s tear drop portions of the design. Also paint in the feather stripes that trail up and embrace along the peacock eye.
Apply heavy dots of SC-32 Bluebeard along the lower tier on the rim of the plate. This may need to be done twice. Then apply heavy dots of SC-11 Blue Yonder above the previous dots. Along the rim of the plate apply heavy dots of SC-97 Can’t-elope.
Fill the AC-219 Designer Bottle with Metal Tip with SW-303 Manganese Wash. Apply a line of Manganese Wash using the pattern as your guide. Detail the pattern with the Manganese Wash. A thicker line down the shaft of the feather up to the eye. Try to keep the center vein on the feather as straight as possible. The lines of color should be heavier along the center vein. The detail lines around the peacock eye and side feathers can be lighter/thinner. Detail the top rim of the plate with a fine line also. Empty and wash the bottle and tip after use.
Fill the AC-219 Designer Bottle and the metal tip with SW-401 Light Flux. Make scallop half loops over and around the dots of Bluebeard and Blue Yonder along the rim of the plate. Let dry.
Apply 2 coats of SW-173 Amber Quartz over the front and back of plate excluding the foot and inner portion of the foot. Apply and extra coat of glaze to the back of the plate keeping it about ½” from the foot.
Wipe off any glaze from the foot of the plate before firing using a moistened Synthetic Sponge. This piece sits flat on the kiln shelf requiring no glaze be on the foot of the plate.
Place the plate fully on a kiln shelf and Fire to Shelf Cone 6 (mid-range) with a 10 min hold.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2-3 coats of C-300 Matte Transparent to the tree and the base. Allow to dry between each coat.
Using a CB-106 #6 and a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, apply 2 coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing to all the scalloped detail on the tree. Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Using an OV-910G #0 Liner and a OB-916G #6 Filbert, apply 1 coat of OG801 Bright Gold to all the scalloped detail on the tree (over the S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing glaze). Clean the brush’s with OA901 Essence. Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to cone 018.
Wire the base of the tree with a large tree wire kit and put medium clear globe lights in the holes of the tree.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, apply 1 coat to each pumpkin. Do not glaze the stems. Use a damp sponge to wipe off most of the glaze, leaving it only in the crevices.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-207 Orange Slice, apply 3 coats to each pumpkin. Do not glaze the stems. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 2 coats to the stems. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Using the Filbert with OG-801 Bright Gold, apply 1 even coat to the stems. Make sure to apply in a well ventilated area. Clean brush with Gold Essence.
Fire to Cone 018.
Using the Shader with OG-803 MOP Brush-On, apply 1 coat to the pumpkins. Brush in a circular motion. Do not glaze the stems.
Outline the entire pattern with the Green Designer Liner.
Using the Mini Liner, apply 2 coats of Hot Tamale to the lettering.
Using the Pointed Round, apply 2 coats of Green Thumb to the top area of the light bulbs.
Using the round, apply 2 coats of Dandelion to the yellow light bulbs.
Using the Round, apply 2 coats of Sour Apple to the green light bulbs.
Using the Round, apply 2 coats of Jack O Lantern to the orange light bulbs.
Using the Round, apply 2 coats of The Blues to the blue light bulbs.
Using both the Script Liner and Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of Red Gloss to the inside side walls.
Using both the Script Liner and the Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of Dark Green Gloss to the rim and outside wall, stopping about ¼” from the bottom edge, as Stoneware gets fired dry footed.
Using the Script Liner and Soft Gan, apply 1 coat of Clear to the background areas around the lights.
Using the Script Liner and Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of Peppermint to the background over the Clear.
Remove any color from the bottom of the piece.
Place on a well kiln washed shelf and fore to shelf cone 6
Outline and detail the pattern with the Black Designer Liner using the metal tip.
Using the Script Liner, apply 2 coats of The Blues to the lower section for the ice area.
Using the Pointed Round, apply 2 coats of Dandelion to the beak.
Using the Pointed Round, apply 2 coats of the Speckled Cotton Tail to the white areas on the penguin.
Using the Pointed Round, apply 2 coats of Speckled Tuxedo to the black areas on the penguin.
Using the Pointed Round and Script Liner, apply Fruit of the Vine to areas of the hat, scarf and handle.
Using the Pointed Round and Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of Blue Isle to areas on the scarf, hat, skates and inside the mug.
Using the Soft Fan and Script Liner, apply 2 coats of Clear to the areas around the design, not the pattern areas, handle, inside or bottom of the piece, as Stoneware needs to be fired dry footed.
Remove any color from the foot area of the mug and place on a well kiln washed shelf and fire to shelf cone 6.
Using the OB-901 MOP Brush, apply 1 coat to the background areas.
Using the Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of FN White to the entire bowl and allow to dry.
Trace on the pattern and create a border to the inside rim of the bowl.
Using the # 4 Round, apply 3 coats of Sour Apple, Blue Yonder, and Hot Tamale to the areas as shown on the photo, and create a fun border with various sized stripes, allowing some spaces to remain white.
Using the # 4 Round, apply 3 coats of Dandelion to the bells.
Using the Mini Liner, outline and detail the piece with Tuxedo.
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.
Vintage Tree Plate
Create a ½” boarder to the outside edge using a pencil or water color marker.
Using the AC-230 Clay Carbon paper, trace on the Pattern.
Using the CB-404 # 4 Pointed Round, apply 3 coats of Sour Apple, Blue Yonder, Hot Tamale and Dandelion to the areas as shown on the photo. The Dandelion is used where the fired gold will be used.
Outline the design and divide the segments with the CB-110 # 10/0 Mini Liner and Tuxedo.
Apply 2 coats of Crystal Clear Brushing to the entire plate.
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.
Using both the OB-901 and 916 brushes, apply 1 even coat of the OG805 Premium Gold to the Dandelion areas.
Clean the OB brushes with OS-901 Essence.
Stilt and fire in a well ventilated kiln to shelf cone 018.
Pour CD048+ Retro Tree mold ¼” thick. Refer to casting instructions.
Once it is firm enough to handle, use the sponge to smooth down casting lines.
Use the ¼” punch to make holes for the lights.
Use a damp sponge to smooth down any rough edges.
Fire to cone 04.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-18 Rosey Posey, apply 1 coat to the outside of the tree and base. Use a damp sponge to remove most of the glaze, leaving it only in the crevices.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-209 Floral Pink, apply 3 coats to the outside of the tree and base. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
After the piece is dry, make sure to clean out any glaze in the holes.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Using the Liner and Filbert with OG802 White Gold, apply 1 even coat to each of the smooth “drips” on the tree. Make a line going around base.
Fire to cone 018.
Using the Shader with OG803 MOP Brush-On, apply 1 coat to the tree and base. Try to avoid the white gold.
Fire to cone 020.
Glue the swirl lights into the holes using epoxy.
Assemble the light kit and attach the light to the base.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 3 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Cut around the border of the 2 patterns and tape together to form a circular pattern. Place the pattern over the front of the plate after the glaze is dry to the touch, but not bone dry. Trace over the pattern with the pencil. Check to make sure you are not pressing too hard or too soft. You want to be able to see the lines, but not scrape down to the bisque. Remove the pattern.
Take your 5 AC-220 Detailer Tips and 1 oz Bottles and fill each one around half-way full with the following glazes: EL-103 Sea Spray, EL-128 Wheat, EL-142 Grass, EL-143 Cactus Flower, and EL-148 Smoked Lilac. Make sure to label each bottle because some of the glazes will look similar.
Use the bottles from Step #5 to make large dots on the lines of the pattern. You want the dots to be close to each other, but not touching. You can choose which color to use for each part of the pattern. Refer to the “Color” section for how each Element will look after it is fired. Doing the dots over FN-009 Black will change the glaze color from its usual appearance.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour around 1/4 cup of EL-118 Blue Grotto, EL-130 Sea Green and EL-149 Lavender Flower into each of the disposable cups. Thin with water until it is easily poured. Pour into each vase (1 at a time) and rotate until the inside is covered. Pour out the excess.
Take the pencil and sketch the texture you would like on each vase. You can do dots, lines, scallops, or other patterns.
Take FD-258 Pure White and apply over the “texture” you drew with the pencil. Allow it dry before moving onto the next step.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-118 Blue Grotto, EL-130 Sea Green and EL-149 Lavender Flower, apply 3 coats to the outside of each vase. Make sure to use the same glaze on the outside as you applied to the inside.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the Round Brush to apply ¼” of AC-302 Wax Resist around the outside bottom of the dish. Follow the instructions on the bottle for conditioning the brush prior to use. Wash brush immediately after use.
On the inside, use another Round Brush to apply SW-401 Light Flux in a pattern of 1” thick crisscrosses. Apply 2 coats.
Using the Round Brush to apply 2 coats of SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue, SC-31 The Blues, and SC-26 Green Thumb in the blank space between the Light Flux. Alternate the colors and overlap the Light Flux slightly. It is helpful to label the spaces prior to painting to ensure variety.
Use the Soft Fan to apply 2 coats of SW-118 Sea Salt on the entire bowl, except the bottom.
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-501 White Gloss, apply 4 coats to the inside of the casserole dish and loaf pans. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-152 Blue Splatterware, apply 3 coats to the outside of the casserole dish and loaf pans (do not glaze the rim or handles). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SW-510 Blue Gloss, apply 4 coats to the rim and handles of the casserole dish and loaf pans. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the AC-222 Medium Writer Tip Kit, apply SW-401 Light Flux in an “X” pattern around the inside edge of the rim. Let glaze dry and apply a second coat.
Exchange the cap on your SC-76 bottle for an AC-224 Plastic Detailer Cap and apply SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue as dots inside of the “X” patterns. Let glaze dry and apply a second coat.
Use the Soft Fan to apply 3 coats of SW-166 Norse Blue to the entire bowl.
Use the Soft Fan to apply 2 coats of SW-141 White Matte to the only rim of the bowl.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off the foot.
Pour around ¼ cup of SW-508 Black Gloss into the disposable cup. Add around 1 TBS of water and mix. It should be slightly thicker than water. Pour into the jug and rotate. Pour out any excess glaze.
Pour out around 2 TBS of SW-505 Purple Gloss. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or glaze.
Take DSS-0164 Continuous Swirls Screen and place it going around the bottom half of the jug, shiny side down. It is helpful to tape it in place to prevent it from slipping.
While holding the screen firmly in place, scoop a small amount of premixed silkscreen medium onto the squeegee and pull across the screen. Repeat until the entire bottom half of the jug has been screened.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-004 Zinc-Free Clear, apply 3 coats over the screened area on the bottom half of the jug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SW-401 Light Flux, apply 3 coats to the lip above the screened area. Allow flux to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with CG-998 Pink Pixie, apply 1 coat to the upper half of the jug (above the screened area). Apply right over the flux.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-165 Lavender Mist, apply 3 coats to the upper half of the jug (above the screened area). Apply right over the flux. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 6.
Copper Jug
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque.
Pour around ¼ cup of SW-508 Black Gloss into the disposable cup. Add around 1 TBS of water and mix. It should be slightly thicker than water. Pour into the jug and rotate. Pour out any excess glaze.
Using the Script Liner with SW-401 Light Flux, apply 3 coats to the upper rim on the jug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-129 Copper Float, apply 3 coats to the bottom half of the jug (flat area below the upper lip). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-180 Desert Dusk, apply 3 coats to the upper half of the jug. Apply over the flux. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 6.
Continuous Fronds Jug
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque.
Pour around ¼ cup of SW-508 Black Gloss into the disposable cup. Add around 1 TBS of water and mix. It should be slightly thicker than water. Pour into the jug and rotate. Pour out any excess glaze.
Pour out around 2 TBS of SW-509 Dark Green Gloss. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or glaze.
Take DSS-0163 Continuous Fronds Screen and place it going around the bottom half of the jug, shiny side down. It is helpful to tape it in place to prevent it from slipping.
While holding the screen firmly in place, scoop a small amount of premixed silkscreen medium onto the squeegee and pull across the screen. Repeat until the entire bottom half of the jug has been screened.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-004 Zinc-Free Clear, apply 3 coats over the screened area on the bottom half of the jug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SW-401 Light Flux, apply 3 coats to the lip above the screened area. Allow flux to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with S-2714 Herb Garden, apply 1 coat to the upper half of the jug (above the screened area). Apply right over the flux.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-253 Green Opal, apply 3 coats to the upper half of the jug (above the screened area). Apply right over the flux. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 6.
Psychedelic Jug
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque.
Pour around ¼ cup of SW-508 Black Gloss into the disposable cup. Add around 1 TBS of water and mix. It should be slightly thicker than water. Pour into the jug and rotate. Pour out any excess glaze.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-508 Black Gloss, apply 3 coats to the outside of the jug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Cut along the edge of the pattern, so that it fits on the bottom half of the jug. Place the pattern around the jug and tape the seam together so that it stays in place. Trace over the pattern with the pencil. Check to make sure you are using the correct amount of pressure. You should be able to see your lines, without going down to the bisque. Remove the pattern.
Using the Detail Liner with AC-302 Wax Resist, apply 1 coat to the pattern you just traced.
Using the Script Liner with SW-501 White Gloss, SW-502 Yellow Gloss, SW-503 Orange Gloss and SW-504 Red Gloss, apply 1 thick coat to each of the areas created by the lines. Try not to have the same color in adjacent areas.
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-501 white Gloss, apply 4 coats to the outside of the bowl. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Make sure your final coat is just dry to the touch when moving onto the next step. You will not be able to trace your pattern if the glaze is bone dry.
Cut along the edges of the pattern, so that it fits around the outside of the bowl. You will need to tape the two pieces together to form one long pattern. Tape the two ends with a black vertical line. Place the pattern around the bowl and tape the seam together so that it stays in place. Trace over the pattern with the pencil. Check to make sure you are using the correct amount of pressure. You should be able to see your lines, without going down to the bisque. Remove the pattern. (Note: you can substitute a different name in the pattern, do this before you put the pattern on the bowl)
Using the Script Liner with SW-506 Bright Blue Gloss, SW-507 Bright Green Gloss and SW-510 Blue Gloss, apply 2 coats to the paw prints. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SW-508 Black Gloss, apply 1 coat to the name.
Pour out around 1 TSP of SW-508 Black Gloss onto the palette. Dip the eraser on the pencil into the glaze and press onto the bowl to make the decorative dots.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-506 Bright Blue Gloss, apply 4 coats to the inside of the bowl. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the Round Brush to apply ¼” of AC-302 Wax Resist around the outside bottom of the dish. Follow the instructions on the bottle for conditioning the brush prior to use. Wash brush immediately after use.
On the inside, use another Round Brush with SW-401 Light Flux to create two 1” wide wavy flowers. Apply 2 coats.
On the outside of the bowl, use the same brush to create one 1” wide wavy ribbon with Light Flux. Apply 2 coats.
On the inside, on top of each wave, apply 1” of SC-9 Jaded slightly overlapping the Light Flux. Apply 2 coats. Repeat on the outside wave.
On the inside of the bowl: apply 1” of SC-13 Grapel to the bottom of the top wave, overlapping the Light Flux. Apply 2 coats. Repeat on the outside wave.
On the inside: apply a 1” ribbon of SC-28 Blue Isle to the middle of the bottom wave, overlapping the Light Flux. Apply 2 coats. Repeat on the outside below SC-13 Grapel.
Use the Soft Fan to apply 2 coats of SW-146 Aurora Green to the entire bowl, except the bottom.
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the Soft Fan to apply 3 coats of SW-146 Aurora Green to 2/3 of the bowl (front and back).
Use the Soft Fan to apply 3 coats of SW-106 Alabaster to 2/3 of the bowl, overlapping the Alabaster (front and back). You can increase the overlap of the colors to create more dramatic effects.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off the foot.
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour out around 2 TBS of SW-509 Dark Green Gloss onto the palette. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or glaze.
Take DSS-0163 Continuous Fronds Screen and place it on top of the plate, shiny side down. Make sure it covers the rim of the bowl.
While holding the screen firmly in place, scoop a small amount of premixed silkscreen medium onto the squeegee and pull across the rim of the bowl. Repeat until the entire rim of the bowl is screened.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-253 Green Opal, apply 1 coat to the front of the bowl and 3 coats to the back. Allow glaze to dry between coats. After the back is dry, flip the bowl back over to the front.
Pour around ½ oz of SW-401 Light Flux, SC-9 Jaded and SC-96 Aqu-ward into each of the AC-220 Detailer Tips and 1 oz Bottles.
Take the bottle with SW-401 Light Flux and make a scalloped line going around the upper, inside of the bowl.
Take the bottle with SC-96 Aqu-ward and make dots above the scalloped line. One dot where each scallop goes down.
Take the bottle with SC-9 Jaded and make dots below the scalloped line. One dot where each scallop goes up.
Allow glaze to dry.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-253 Green Opal, apply 2 coats to the front of the bowl. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the Round Brush to apply ¼” of AC-302 Wax Resist around the outside bottom of the dish. Follow the instructions on the bottle for conditioning the brush prior to use. Wash brush immediately after use.
Use the Soft Fanto apply two coats of SW-106 Alabaster to the entire dish, except the bottom.
Use the Writer Bottles + Tips to apply one coat each of the following colors in a striped wavy pattern: SC-7 Leapin’ Lizard, SC-23 Jack O’Lantern, SC-42 Butter Me Up, SC-72 Grape Jelly, SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue, and SC-87 Ruby Slippers. Apply the colors to the inside, top edge, handle and on the outside as pictured.
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-101 Stoned Denim, apply 3 coats to the back of the bowl. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Flip the bowl back over to the front.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-101 Stoned Denim, apply 3 coats to the front of the bowl. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-179 Muddy Waters, apply 1 thick, irregular coat going down the center of the bowl.
Pour around ½ oz of SW-401 Light Flux into the AC-220 Detailer Tip and 1 oz Bottle. Quickly squeeze out the flux as you go back and forth across the center of the plate. Follow the same direction as the glaze from Step #4. Make 3-5 lines.
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-165 Lavender Mist, apply 3 coats to the back of the bowl. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Flip the bowl back over to the front.
Use the pencil to draw 2 lines going down the front of the bowl. You want to create 2 large sections on either side and 1 thin section going down the middle.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-165 Lavender Mist, apply 3 coats to the 2 outer sections. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-143 Abalone, apply 3 coats to the center section, overlapping around 1” over the outer sections. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Pour around ½ oz of SW-401 Light Flux into the AC-220 Detailer Tip and 1 oz Bottle. Quickly squeeze out the flux as you go back and forth across the center of the plate. Follow the direction of your lines. Make 3-5 lines.
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply letter and shape stickers to the desired areas.
Use the Soft Fan to apply 3 coats of SW-130 Copper Jade to the entire bowl.
Remove the stickers.
Use the Soft Fan to apply 1 coat SW-001 Clear to the bottom inside of the bowl and the outside of the bowl (below the rim).
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off the foot.
Fire to cone 5/6. (Sample was fired to cone 6)
Splatter Paw Print Bowl
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the water-based marker or pencil draw pawprints around the outside of the bowl.
Use the Script Liner to fill in the pawprints with 3 coats of the following colors: SW-502 Yellow Gloss, SW-503 Orange Gloss, SW-504 Red Gloss, and SW-510 Blue Gloss. Alternate the colors as you go around the bowl.
Use the Soft Fan to apply 3 coats of SW-508 Black Gloss to the inside of the bowl.
Use the Soft Fan to splatter SW-508 Black Gloss on the outside of the bowl.
Use the Soft Fan to apply 1 coat of Clear on the outside of the bowl.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off the foot.
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour out around 2 TBS of SW-509 Dark Green Gloss onto the palette. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or glaze.
Take DSS-0163 Continuous Fronds Screen and place it on top of the plate, shiny side down. Make sure it covers the rim of the bowl.
While holding the screen firmly in place, scoop a small amount of premixed silkscreen medium onto the squeegee and pull across the rim of the bowl. Repeat until the entire rim of the bowl is screened.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-004 Zinc-Free Clear, apply 3 coats over the screened area on the bowl. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-509 Dark Green Gloss, apply 4 coats to the rest of the bowl. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the Round Brush to apply ¼” of AC-302 Wax Resist around the outside bottom of the dish. Follow the instructions on the bottle for conditioning the brush prior to use. Wash brush immediately after use.
Use another Round Brush to apply two ribbons of SW-401 Light Flux inside the bowl and one ribbon of Light Flux outside the bowl.
Use the Round Brush to paint the following colors in ribbons around the Light Flux: alternate SC-28 Blue Isle, SC-29 Blue Grass, and SC-7 Leapin’ Lizard. Repeat on the outside of bowl. Apply 2 coats on the inside and outside ribbons.
On the inside of the bowl, use the Soft Fan to create a circle of SW-176 Sandstone in the center. Working up in layers, slightly overlap each color as you move to the top: SW-212 Peacock, SW-109 Capri Blue, and SW-211 Glacier Blue. Apply 2 coats.
Once dry, apply 1 heavy coat of SW-150 Celeadon Bloom (SW150) on top of the Glacier Blue.
On the outside, starting at the bottom, apply 2” of Sandstone (SW176). Moving up on the bowl, apply Peacock, slightly overlapping with Peacock (SW212). Moving up, apply Glacier Blue (SW211) slightly overlapping Peacock. Apply 2 coats on all of these colors. Apply 1 heavy coat of Celedon Bloom (SW150) on top of the Glacier Blue.
Cast the mold in usual manner. Allow to dry! Clean the greenware with a Clean-Up Tool and sponge. Do not fire!
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of AS-512 Black Diamond. Do not apply to the bottom of the vase, (can scratch surface it is put on when finished).
Bisque Fire to cone 04.
Thin some FN-009 Black to the consistency of coffee cream. Pour inside the vase and roll around to coat the inside. Drain any excess glaze and leave the vase upside down to finish draining. Wipe any drips with a damp sponge.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 – 3 coats of FN009 Black to the bottom of the vase. Allow to dry!
The leaving some space glazes being applied next will be applied in a plopping motion using the side of the fan brush leaving some spaces in between the colors (do not apply solid). Do not was your brush out just wipe between a paper towel then go onto the next color.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan Brush, plop 1 coat of FN-150 Fern to the top portion of the vase. Next you plop on EL-130 Sea Green. Followed by PC-602 White Cascade then some PC-601 Clear Cascade. Allow to dry!
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 good coat of EL-208 Night Sky. Allow to dry!
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the Round Brush to apply ¼” of AC-302 Wax Resist around the outside bottom of the dish. Follow the instructions on the bottle for conditioning the brush prior to use. Wash brush immediately after use.
Using another Round Brush, apply 1” wide ribbon in a crisscross pattern inside the bowl using SW-401 Light Flux. Apply 2 coats.
Inside the bottom of the bowl, use a Round Brush and AC-302 Light Flux to create a 1” wide lattice pattern. Apply 2 coats.
On the outside of the bowl, use the Round Brush and AC-302 Light Flux to create a wavy line around the top 1/3. Apply 2 coats.
On the inside pattern, fill in the empty spaces alternating between SC-29 Blue Grass and SC-32 Bluebeard. Apply two coats, overlapping the flux slightly.
On the outside of the bowl, fill the space above the Flux line, slightly overlapping with one color. Fill below the Flux line, slightly overlapping, with the other color.
Use the Soft Fan to apply 2 coats of SW-176 Sandstone over the entire bowl, excluding the bottom.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of UG-85 Orange Sorbet to the pumpkin. Allow to dry between each coat thoroughly! Do Not force dry!
Using a CB-408 #8 Pointed Round, apply 3 coats of UG-31 Chocolate to the Stem. Allow to dry between each coat. When last coat has dried, drybrush the high areas of the stem with UG-220 Sage.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, highlight the pumpkin with UG-203 Squash Yellow.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of UG -31 Chocolate and UG-220 sage from the stem down about 2 inches. The apply 1 coat of UG-57 Spice Brown from the bottom up.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, load the brush with water, pat excess off on a paper towel. Load one side of the brush with UG-31 Chocolate and shade the deep crevices of the pumpkin. Allow to dry!
At this point you can either fire the Fundamental colors at this time to a cone 04to set the colors. Or go to the next step.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of CC-101 Transparent Crackle glaze to the pumpkin. Allow to dry between each coat.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
To make the crackle pattern to show up. Wait a couple of days for the crackle pattern to develop. Then use some form of stain like SS-138 Flat Black or India Ink. Apply the color in a small area then wipe back with a paper towel or soft cloth.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the Soft Fan to apply three coats of SC-30 Blue Dawn inside the mug.
Use the Script Liner to paint the bottom rim with three coats of SC-26 Green Thumb.
Apply three coats of SC-78 Lime Light on the handle.
Using the Detail Liner, paint all stems and leaves with SC-78 Lime Light.
On the thicker stems and larger leaves, go over the SC-78 Lime Light with a wispy coat of SC-26 Green Thumb.
Choose random flowers on each side for each of the other colors (or any of your favorite colors). For lighter colors, add a second coat. For darker colors, a single coat provided sufficient coverage for me.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the Soft Fan to apply two coats of SC-30 Blue Dawn to the bottom third of the tumbler.
Apply two coats of SC-12 Moody Blue to the middle third of the tumbler, slightly overlapping SC-30 Blue Dawn.
Apply two coats of SC-32 Bluebeard to the top third of the tumbler, slightly overlapping SC-12 Moody Blue.
Apply three coats of SC-32 Bluebeard to the inside of the tumbler.
With a damp sponge brush, dab a thin layer of Blue Dawn over the line where it meets Moody Blue. Then dab a thin layer of Moody Blue over the line where it meets Bluebeard.
Once the piece is completely dry, go back over the blended line with the last step again if you want a more subtle transition.
Artist’s Note: The Retro Mug has 20 diamond shapes. I chose a rainbow palette of 10 colors that repeat once.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the Script Liner to paint each section with three solid coats of the assigned color, leaving no space between the sections. Colors: SC-12 Moody Blue, SC-24 Dandelion, SC-26 Green Thumb, SC-28 Blue Isle, SC-30 Blue Dawn, SC-40 Blueberry Hill, SC-53 Purple Haze, SC-74 Hot Tamale, SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, and SC-78 Lime Light.
Use the Soft Fan to paint three coats of SC-28 Blue Isle inside the mug.
Once all colors are completely dry, paint the handle, the top rim and the bottom rim with two coats of SC-15 Tuxedo.
Use the Detail Liner to outline each section with SC-15 Tuxedo being careful to cover any unpainted bisque.
Dip into NT-CLR Clear Dipping Glaze. NOTE: You do not have to dip a piece that has three coats of Stroke & Coat; however, many people dip all their Stroke & Coat projects.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the Soft Fan and Script Liner to apply 3 coats of SC-9 Jaded on the inside of the cup and on the bottom. Let dry.
Using a sponge, dab the following colors in large swatches around the cup: SC-74 Hot Tamale, SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-27 Sour Apple, SC-11 Blue Yonder, and SC-13 Grapel. You can blend them where they run into each other, but it doesn’t have to be perfect! Let Dry.
With a clean, damp sponge, wipe away the color on the raised areas of the cup. Take care to leave color in the indentions. Use a clean part of the sponge with each wipe so you take the paint away rather than pushing it around. Let dry.
Use the Writer Bottle + Tip with SC-15 Tuxedo to draw a circle around one of the indents. Then, create 5 petals coming from the center to finish the flower. Add a stem from the flower to the base of the cup (wavy or straight lines) Then, add leaves to the stem. Continue around the cup, painting flowers at 1” – 2” inch intervals. Let dry.
Using the same writer bottle, draw grass in a flicking motion from the base. Fill in all the spaces between flowers with grass. Let dry.
Use the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo to line the rim – approx. ¼” thick. Let dry.
OPTION: Use a toothbrush or stiff brush with SC-15 Tuxedo to add splatters by flicking the brush with your finger towards the piece. Let dry.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Paint the bottom row of shapes with 3 coats of the following colors in this order: SC-74 Hot Tamale, SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, SC-23 Jack O’Lantern, SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-27 Sour Apple, SC-9 Jaded, SC-11 Blue Yonder, SC-53 Purple Haze, SC-13 Grapel, and SC-3 Wine About It. Let dry.
For the top row of shapes, you will combine colors. Each shape on top is equal parts the colors directly before and after it (in a zig zag pattern from bottom to top,) with an added half amount of SC-16 Cotton Tail. Paint the top row with three coats of the combination colors. Let dry.
For example: The shape on top between Sunkissed and Sour Apple on the bottom is a mixture of the two + Cotton Tail. It would be: 1/3 Sunkissed, 1/3 Sour Apple, 1/3 Cotton Tail.
Use the Script Liner and Soft Fan to apply 3 coats of SC-14 Java Bean to inside and background of the mug. Let dry.
Use the Script Liner to paint the base and bottom rim/foot with 3 coats of SC-5 Tiger Tail. Let dry.
Use the Writer Bottle + Tip with SC-16 Cotton Tail to outline the top and bottom row of shapes. Let dry.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Paint the faceted area with 2-3 coats SC-16 Cotton Tail, leaving the flat rim area on the outside unpainted. This allows for full coverage on the entire piece. Let dry.
With a sponge (dry or damp but rung out thoroughly) sponge SC-9 Jaded over the faceted area, taking care to mostly cover the raised areas and leaving the indents white. Let dry.
With the same sponge, add SC-10 Teal Next Time lightly to the raised areas. Leave some of the SC-9 Jaded and SC-16 Cotton Tail visible. This is an accent. Let dry.
Use the Soft Fan and Script Liner to apply 3 coats of SC-15 Tuxedo to the inside of the cup, the top rim (coming down to where the faceted area meets the rim), the bottom rim, and the bottom of the cup. Let dry.
Use the Writer Bottle + Tip with SC-15 Tuxedo to outline the raised facets. Follow the indent to create triangles. Let dry.
Cast the mold in usual manner. Allow to dry! Clean the greenware with a Clean-Up Tool and sponge. Do not fire!
Golden Sand Astro Gem Flowerpot
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of AS-513 Golden Sand to the outside of the flowerpot. Allow to dry! Bisque fire to shelf cone 04.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of EL-134 Mirror Blue to the inside of the flowerpot. And about 1.5” on the outer to rim of the flowerpot. Allow to dry!
Using a CB-604#4 Soft Fan, plop some PC-602 White Cascade on the tope edge of the flowerpot over the EL-134 Mirror Blue followed by plopping PC-601 Clear Cascade in between the White Cascade. Allow to dry!
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of EL-207 Gold Mine over the glazes on the outer rim of the flowerpot. Allow to Dry!
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Black Diamond Astro Gem Flowerpot
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of AS-512 Black Diamond to the outside of the flowerpot. Allow to dry! Bisque fire to cone 04.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN-009 Black to the inside of the flowerpot. Allow to dry!
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of CG-970 Masquerade to the outer edge of the flowerpot in an irregular shape. Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.
White Opal Astro Gem Flowerpot
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of AS-510 White Opal to the outside of the flowerpot. Allow to dry! Bisque fire to cone 04.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN-007 Green to the inside of the flowerpot. Allow to dry!
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of CG-2715 Spotted Kiwi to about 1.5” of the top of the outside of the flowerpot.
Using a CB-604#4 Soft Fan, plop some PC-602 White Cascade on the tope edge of the flowerpot over the CG-2715 Spotted Kiwi followed by plopping PC-601 Clear Cascade in between the White Cascade. Allow to dry!
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of EL-208 Moss Creek over top the other glazes. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
If you would like the inside of your Pumpkin Stack to be yellow. Tape the cutout areas with masking tape. Thin some FN002 Yellow to the consistency of Coffee cream, pour the glaze inside of the pumpkin and roll covering the inside. Drain any excess glaze out. Allow to dry!
Remove the masking tape and wipe off any spills with a damp sponge.
Read the instructions first before starting your painting.
Working one pumpkin at a time. Start with the top pumpkin finish that one, then go to the middle pumpkin, finish it then go to the bottom pumpkin.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN-008 Brown to the pumpkin. When the first coat loses its shine apply the second coat. When that coat loses its shine, apply the third coat.
When the third coat of FN-008 Brown loses its shine, using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of SG-202 White Cobblestone. When the first coat loses its shine apply the second coat. When that coat loses its shine, apply the third coat.
When the third coat of FN-008 Brown loses its shine, apply 1 coat of SC-86 Old Lace over the SG-202 White Cobblestone. Highlight the pumpkin with SC-16 Cotton Tail.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, shade the deep crevices SC-41 Brown Cow.
Using an old brush, apply a good coat of AC-302 Wax Resist over the top pumpkin. Allow to dry!
Middle pumpkin, repeat step # 4 and 5.
When the third coat of FN-008 Brown loses its shine, apply 1 coat of SC-79 It’s Sage over the SG-202 White Cobblestone. Highlight the pumpkin with SC-77 Glow Worm.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, shade the deep crevices SC-39 Army Surplus.
Using an old brush, apply a good coat of AC-302 Wax Resist over the middle pumpkin. Allow to dry!
Repeat steps #4 and 5.
When the third coat of FN-008 Brown loses its shine, apply 1 coat of SC-97 Cant-elope over the SG-202 White Cobblestone. Highlight the pumpkin with SC-24 Dandelion.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, shade the deep crevices SC-80 Basketball.
Using an old brush, apply a good coat of AC-302 Wax Resist over the top pumpkin. Allow to dry!
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Note: The AC-302 Wax Resist will help keep the Cobblestone from popping off the piece.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use a soft fan to plop the cascades around the rim of the bowl. Apply about a 1” plop and alternate between the white and clear cascade. Apply a total of 3 coats to each.
Use a fan brush to apply 2 coats of Wine About It to the outside of the bowl, avoiding the foot. Let dry between coats.
Apply a dot of Wine About It on top of each plop of cascades.
Use a fan brush to apply 3 coats of Oyster to the inside of the bowl.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Fire to cone 5/6. (Sample was fired to cone 6)
Alternative color options below
3 coats PC-601 and PC-602 (plops), 3 coats SW-116 Robin’s Egg, 2 coats SC-45 My Blue Heaven (outside of bowl)
3 coats PC-601 and PC-602 (plops), 3 coats SW-146 Aurora Green, 2 coats SC-39 Army Surplus (outside bowl)
3 coats PC-601 and PC-602 (plops), 3 coats SW-169 Frosted Lemon, 2 coats SC-55 Yella Bout It (outside bowl)
3 coats PC-601 and PC-602 (plops), 3 coats SW-170 Blue Hydrangea, 2 coats SC-65 Peri-Twinkle (outside bowl)
Cast the mold in usual manner. Allow the greenware to dry! Clean the greenware with a Clean-Up Tool and sponge. Bisque fire to cone 04.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using an AB-710 #3/4 Flat Shader and an AB-705 #5 Round, basecoat the gnome’s hat, shoes, and gloves with SS-24 Chocolate Fudge.
Using a BT-910 Synthetic Sponge, sponge the hat with 2 coats of SS-24 Chocolate Fudge letting it dry between each coat. This will create a slight texture for the hat.
Using a DB-803 #8 Round, drybrush the hat, shoes, and gloves with Medium Mocha. Highlight with SS- 192 Light Taupe.
Using a Basecoat Brush and an AB-705 #5 Round, basecoat the gnome’s shirt with SS-211 Orange Rust. Allow to dry!
Using an DB-803 #8 Round, drybrush the shirt with SS-210 Orange. Highlight with SS-247 Bright Yellow.
If the deep crevices get filled in just float some SS-24 Chocolate Fudge in them.
Using an AB-705 #5 Round, basecoat the beard with OS567 Ash.
Using a DB-802 #5 Round Dry Brush, drybrush the beard with SS-130 Medium Gray then highlight with SS-135 White.
Shade the center of the beard with some Medium Mocha.
Using an AB-705 #5 Round, basecoat the nose with SS-192 Light Taupe.
Using an AB-708 #10 Shader, shade the noses with SS-183 Rich Peach.
Add some patches on the shirt with different colors of your choice. Allow to dry!
Apply 2 light coats of SS342C Matte Spray Sealer to the piece. Allow to dry!
Attach some Raffia to the Gnome arm, in between the feet around the hat with some hot glue.
Attach a band of burlap around the hat rim and make some patches for the hat.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe the bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan brush, apply 2-3 coats of SC-42 Butter Me Up to the center of the plate as the cheese. Leave space unglazed on the edges and lip. Allow to dry.
Using a sponge, lightly dab the flat side of the sponge into SC-6 Sunkissed. Use a paper towel to dab the majority of the paint off. Quickly pounce the sponge in the center of the plate, over SC-42 Butter Me Up (the cheese).
Using the Pointed Round brush, apply 2-3 coats of Poo Bear to the unglazed area on the edge and lip of the plate. This will be the crust
Using the Pointed Round brush, outline sections over Poo Bear (the crust) and around SC-42 Butter Me Up (the cheese) with irregular waves of SC-74 Hot Tamale. This will be the sauce.
Using the Pointed Round brush, apply 2 coats of Rawhide in irregular waves randomly over Poo Bear, avoiding the very edge of the plate to add highlights to the crust.
Using the Liner brush, write text of your choice using SC-99 Char-ming to the center of the plate.
Using the Pointed Round brush, apply 2-3 coats of circles around the text with SC-74 Hot Tamale. This will be the pepperoni.
Using the back of a brush handle, add dots of SC-81 Cinnamon Stix to the center of SC-74 Hot Tamale (the pepperonis) and in random areas on over SC-42 Butter Me U(the cheese) to reflect red pepper flakes.
Using SC-46 Rawhide add small waves using the Pointed Round brush and dots using the back of the bush as cheese highlights.
Apply 2-3 coats of SC-51 Poo Bear to the back of the plate with the Soft Fan brush.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the pencil and ruler to create 4 equal sections on the plate.
On the DSS-0121 Fruits screen, locate the lemon. Cut it out and lay it shiny side up. Take the dry erase marker and color over the lemon. Take the paper towel and wipe off the screen, leaving the marker only in the lines of the lemon.
Pour around 1 TBS NT-BR Clear One Brushing onto the palette. Add a few drops of food coloring. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or glaze.
Place the screen in the center of one of the sections (shiny side down). While holding the screen firmly in place, take a small amount of premixed silkscreen medium, and gently rub in circles starting in the center and working outward. Clean screen. Repeat for all 4 sections of the plate.
Using the Script Liner and Soft Fan with SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-11 Blue Yonder, SC-27 Sour Apple and SC-75 Orange-A-Peel apply 2 coats to the area around the lemon in each of the 4 sections. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-11 Blue Yonder, SC-27 Sour Apple and SC-75 Orange-A-Peel apply 2 coats to each of the lemons. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze around 2 TBS of SC-15 Tuxedo onto the palette. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or glaze.
Repeat Step #5. You will be rescreening the same images in black. Make sure to position the screen so that it matches the previously screened lemons.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the back and edges of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with NT-BR Clear One Brushing, apply 1 coat to the front and back of the plate.
Cast the mold in usual manner. Allow the greenware to dry! Clean the greenware with a Clean-Up Tool and sponge. Bisque fire to cone 04.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a Basecoat Brush and an AB-705 #5 Round, basecoat the gnome’s shirt with SS-57 Accent Green. Allow to dry!
Using an DB-803 #8 Round, drybrush the shirt with SS-19 Country Sage then with SS-376 Lime Burst. Highlight with SS-247 Bright Yellow.
Using an AB-710 #3/4 Flat Shader and an AB-705 #5 Round, basecoat the gnome’s Hat and gloves with OS569 Concord.
Using a DB-803 #8 Round, drybrush the hat and gloves with SS-368 Dusty Violet. Highlight with SS-28 Hushed Violet
If the deep crevices get filled in just drybrush them with the base coat color to deepen them again.
Using an AB-705 #5 Round, basecoat the beard with OS567 Ash.
Using a DB-802 #5 Round Dry Brush, drybrush the beard with SS-130 Medium Gray then highlight with SS-135 White.
Using an AB-705 #5 Round, basecoat the nose with SS-192 Light Taupe.
Using an AB-708 #10 Shader, shade the noses with SS-183 Rich Peach.
Using scissors, cut out the bats for the hat and the belt for the hat. Trace around these with a pencil. Using an AB-704 #3 Round, apply 2 coats of UM951 Solid Gold to the buckle and OS476 Black to the belt. Using an AB-702 #10/0 Liner, apply OS476 Black to the bats.
Using an AB-708 #10 Shader, Shade around the beard with OS476 Black.
Basecoat the shoes with OS476 Black and drybrush with OS567 Ash.
Add dots of SS-210 Orange to the bat’s eyes around the cuffs of the shirt and bottom of the shirt. Allow to dry!
Apply 2 light coats of SS342C Matte Spray Sealer to the piece. Allow to dry!
Using an AB-704 #3 Round, apply 2-3 coats of SG882 Glittering Gold Sparklers to the buckle on the hat.
Using Mod Podge, apply to the hat band then sprinkle with Black Glitter. Allow to dry!
Cast the mold in usual manner. Allow the greenware to dry! Clean the greenware with a Clean-Up Tool and sponge. If adding anything in the gnomes’ hands, drill a small hole in each hand. Bisque fire to cone 04.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a Basecoat Brush and an AB-705 #5 Round, basecoat the gnome’s shirt with OS480 Garnet Red. Allow to dry!
Using an DB-803 #8 Round, drybrush the shirt with SS-176 Christmas Red.
Create ½” stripes on the gnome’s shirt using ½” masking tape. Make sure the tape is down on the edges to prevent color leaking under the tape.
Using a DB-803 #8 Round, stipple SS-130 Medium Gray on the white stripe first. Next, stipple 2 coats of SS-135 White.
Using an AB-710 #3/4 Flat Shader and an AB-705 #5 Round, basecoat the gnome’s hat with OS460 Navy.
Drybrush the hat with SS-SS-183 Rich Blue. Followed by highlighting with SS-131 Medium Blue.
If the deep crevices get filled in just drybrush them with the base coat color to deepen them again.
Using an AB-705 #5 Round, basecoat the beard with SS-130 Medium Gray
Using a DB-802 #5 Round Dry Brush, drybrush the beard with SS-135 White.
Using an AB-705 #5 Round, basecoat the nose with SS-127 Medium Portrait
Using an AB-708 #10 Shader, shade the noses with SS-183 Rich Peach.
Using a star paper punch, trace the stars on to the hat.
Using an AB-704 #3 Round, first basecoat the stars with SS-130 Medium Gray. This will help block out the blue to come through the white. Allow to dry. Then apply 1-2 coats of SS-135 White to the stars. Allow to dry!
Apply 2 light coats of SS342 C Matte Spray Sealer to the piece. Allow to dry!
Using an AB-704 #3 Round, apply 2-3 coats of SG880 Crystal Sparklers to the stars
You can add some decorative star and flag to the gnome. Glue into the small hole you drilled in each hand. Or you can drill in bisque with a Dremel Drill.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-118 Blue Grotto, apply 2 coats to the outside of the mug. Apply 3 coats to the inside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-130 Sea Green, apply 2 coats to the outside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Pour around 1 TBS of PC-601 Clear Cascade onto the palette. Use the Soft Fan to pat “globs” going around the top inch of the mug.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Mug with White Cascade:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-118 Blue Grotto, apply 2 coats to the outside of the mug. Apply 3 coats to the inside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Pour around 1 TBS of PC-602 White Cascade onto the palette. Use the Soft Fan to pat “globs” around the top inch of the mug. Allow glaze to dry.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-130 Sea Green, apply 2 coats to the outside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-118 Blue Grotto, apply 2 coats to the outside of the 2 mugs. Apply 3 coats to the inside of the mugs. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with CG-962 Blue Azure, apply 2 coats to the outside of first mug. Using the Soft Fan with CG-1001 Gogh Iris, apply 2 coats to the outside of the second mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and Fire to cone 06.
Mugs with EL-130 Sea Green as the base:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-130 Sea Green, apply 2 coats to the outside of the 2 mugs. Apply 3 coats to the inside of the mugs. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with CG-962 Blue Azure, apply 2 coats to the outside of first mug. Using the Soft Fan with CG-1001 Gogh Iris, apply 2 coats to the outside of the second mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired stoneware bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using RB-144 #4 fan brush, apply 3 coats of PC-601 Clear Cascade by plopping to the inside and outside of the mug. Leave space in between each plop. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using RB-144 #4 fan brush, apply 3 coats of PC-602 White Cascade by plopping in between each plop of PC-601 Clear Cascade to the inside and outside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Apply 3 coats of SW-168 Coral Sands to the inside and outside of the mug using RB-144 #4 fan brush. Do not apply to the handle. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Apply 3 coats of SC-50 Orange Ya Happy to the handle. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use a clean sponge to remove excess glaze off of the foot.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour around ¼ cup FN-007 Green into the disposable cup. Thin with around 1 TBS of water. Pour the thinned glaze into the vase and rotate the vase to cover the inside. Pour out excess glaze. Place the vase upside down on a few paper towels for around 1 minute. Turn the vase right side up and wipe off any glaze drips.
Using the Soft Fan with CG-1001 Gogh Iris, apply 2 coats to the top 2/3 of the vase (outside only). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with CG-962 Blue Azure, apply 2 coats to the bottom 2/3 of the vase (outside only). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
The middle 2/3 will be a combination of the 2 crystal glazes.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 3 coats to the black of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply 1 coat to the front.
After the glaze on the front of the plate is dry to the touch, place the pattern on top. Trace the pattern with the pencil. Check to make sure you are using the right amount of pressure. You should be able to see a faint line in the glaze.
Squeeze around 1 TBS of SC-24 Dandelion, SC-28 Blue Isle and SC-88 Tu Tu Tango onto the palette. Create Color Mix #1 by mixing ½ TBS of SC-28 Blue Isle + 1 TBS of SC-24 Dandelion. Create Color Mix #2 by mixing ½ TBS SC-88 Tu Tu Tango + 1 TBS SC-24 Dandelion.
Using the Script Liner with colors from the previous step, apply 2 coats to the corresponding section of the pattern. Refer to the pattern for color placement. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Sgraffito Tool or Sharp Skewer, remove a line of glaze between the different colors on the plate. It will be like tracing the pattern again. You should end up with white lines separating the different colors. Allow the glaze to dry, then brush away any “crumbs” of glaze made by the lines.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-702 Celebration, apply 1 coat over the front of the plate.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Form
MB-102 Coupe Dinner Plate
Colors
FN-001 White
SC-24 Dandelion
SC-28 Blue Isle
SC-88 Tu Tu Tango
SG-702 Celebration
Color Mix #1 (SC-28 Blue Isle + SC-24 Dandelion 1:2)
Color Mix #2 (SC-88 Tu Tu Tango + SC-24 Dandelion 1:2)
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-043 Bright Jade, apply 3 coats to the front and back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
When the front of the plate is dry to the touch, place the pattern on top. Trace with the pencil. Check to make sure you are using the right amount of pressure. There should be a faint line in the glaze.
Using the Detail Liner with AC-302 Wax Resist, apply 1 coat to the pattern lines on the plate.
Using the Script Liner with SG-202 White Cobblestone, apply 1 coat to the wings (each coat should be thick and even). As soon as the shine is gone, apply a second coat. As soon as the shine is gone, apply a third coat.
Using the Script Liner with SG-202 White Cobblestone, apply 1 coat to the head and middle body stripe (each coat should be thick and even). As soon as the shine is gone, apply a second coat. As soon as the shine is gone, apply 1 coat of SC-24 Dandelion.
Using the Script Liner with SG-201 Black Cobblestone, apply 1 coat to the antennae.
Using the Script Liner with SG-201 Black Cobblestone, apply 1 coat to two the remaining body stripes (each coat should be thick and even). As soon as the shine is gone, apply a second coat.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use AC-310 Silkscreen Medium to thicken some SW-302 Rutile Wash.
Apply the silkscreens around the bottom of the vase.
Use a fan brush to apply EL-110 Mudslide. You will apply 3 coats in total, bringing each coat up a couple of inches from the bottom. If the Mudslide is applied to thick over the silkscreens, they will not show very well. We are looking for the darker variation of Mudslide to create contrast, which is why we are only applying 1 coat around the very bottom.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use a mini liner to apply the line work details of your design. (You may want to apply the design with a washable marker first). No need to be very tight and precise with these lines, we will clean them up later.You will want to apply 2-3 coats.
Once dry, use a mini liner brush to apply the wax resist to the lines (this is where you will want precision with your line work).
Once the wax has dried thoroughly, use a damp sponge to gently wipe back along the lines to clean them up.
Use a script liner the fill in the design details, 3 coats. Use a damp brush to clean glaze off of the wax if it accumulates there.
Use a soft fan to apply the stoneware glaze to the outside and rim of the bowl.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 3 coats to the front and sides of the canvas. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
When glaze is dry to the touch, place the pattern on the canvas. Trace over the pattern with the pencil. Check to make sure you are using the correct amount of pressure. If you press too light, you will not see your lines. If you press too heavy, you will expose the underlying bisque.
Using the Detail Liner with AC-302 Wax Resist, outline the pattern on the canvas. Outline the border between the front and sides of the canvas.
Using the Script Liner with SG-202 White Cobblestone, apply 3 coats to each section of the pattern (not the background). Allow glaze to lose its shine before applying the 2nd and 3rd coats. Wait for the 3rd coat to lose its shine before moving on to Step #6.
Using the Script Liner with EL-121 Copper Adventurine, EL-128 Wheat, EL-143 Cactus Flower and EL-150 Fern, apply 1 coat to each section of the pattern (not the background). Refer to the pattern for color placement.
Using the Script Liner with EL-150 Fern, apply 2 coats to the background. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply a 3rd coat to the center of the background (around ¼” inward from the border of the background). Try not to apply even coats. Uneven coats will create more color variation.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 3 coats to the front and sides of the canvas. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
When glaze is dry to the touch, place the pattern on the canvas. Trace over the pattern with the pencil. Check to make sure you are using the correct amount of pressure. If you press too light, you will not see your lines. If you press too heavy, you will expose the underlying bisque.
Using the Detail Liner with AC-302 Wax Resist, outline the pattern on the canvas. Outline the border between the front and sides of the canvas.
Using the Script Liner with SG-202 White Cobblestone, apply 3 coats to each section of the pattern (not the background). Allow glaze to lose its shine before applying the 2nd and 3rd coats. Wait for the 3rd coat to lose its shine before moving on to Step #6.
Using the Script Liner with EL-128 Wheat, EL-143 Cactus Flower and EL-150 Fern, apply 1 coat to each section of the pattern (not the background). Refer to the pattern for color placement.
Using the Script Liner with EL-110 Mudslide, apply 2 coats to the background. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply a 3rd coat to the center of the background (around ¼” inward from the border of the background). Try not to apply even coats. Uneven coats will create more color variation.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using an AB-710 ¾” Flat Shader, basecoat the owl with OS476 Black. Allow to dry!
Using a DB-803 #8 Flat Round, drybrush the entire owl except the rock base with SS-24 Chocolate Fudge.
Using a DB-803 #8 Flat Round, drybrush all feather areas with SS-234 Medium Mocha, try not to drybrush the facets, leaving the previous color showing.
Using a DB-803 #8 Flat Round, drybrush the bottom sections of the chest, top of the head with SS-45 Buttermilk followed by SS-135 White then tip the bottom sections of the chest feathers with OS476 Black. The face is SS-45 Buttermilk then SS-135 White on the outer area and the inner area around the eyes is OS476 Black.
The wings and the back of the head is the SS-45 Buttermilk on the top section of each wing feather and head feather followed by SS-135 White.
The large section of the eye area is drybrushed with SS-45 Buttermilk then a couple of coats of SS-135 White.
Using a DB-802 #5 Round, drybrush the beak and feet with couple coats of SS-3 Honey Toast then highlight with SS-45 Buttermilk.
Using a DB-803 #8 Flat Round, drybrush the rock area with OS567 Ash then add some highlights of SS-130 Medium Gray followed by some OS487 Olive Moss and SS-24 Chocolate Fudge creating the look of a rock. Highlight the facets with OS476 Black.
Using an AB-705 #5 Round, apply 2 coats of SS-3 Honey Toast lightened with some SS-45 Buttermilk.
Using an AB-708 #10 Shader, shade around the outer edge of the eye with SS-3 Honey Toast.
Using an AB-705 #5 Round, apply a coat of OS476 Black to create the pupil of the eye. Add a highlight of SS-135 White.
Using an AB-702 #10/0 Liner, outline the facets on the beak and in the white are of the eye with SS-234 Medium Mocha also add lines to the feet.
Using an AB-705 #5 Round, apply 2 coats of AC-502 Matte Brush-On Sealer to entire piece. Allow to dry!
Using an AB-705 #5 Round, apply 2 coats of AC-501 Gloss Brush-On Sealer to the eyes and beak. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 3 coats to the entire pumpkin. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-202 White Cobblestone, apply 3 coats to the body of the pumpkin (not the stem). Allow glaze to lose its shine before applying the second and third coats, but do not wait until it is dry enough to crack.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-042 Teal Blue, apply 1 coat to the body of the pumpkin (not the stem). Do this after the final coat from step #3 loses its shine, but do not wait until it is dry enough to crack.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Hammered Pumpkin #2:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 3 coats to the body of the pumpkin (not the stem). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-042 Teal Blue, apply 3 coats to the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-202 White Cobblestone, apply 3 coats to the body of the pumpkin (not the stem). Allow glaze to lose its shine before applying the second and third coats, but do not wait until it is dry enough to crack.
Pour out around 1 TBS of FN-001 White and FN-042 Teal Blue onto the palette. Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 1 coat to the top half of the pumpkin (not the stem). Dip the same brush into FN-042 Teal Blue and blend down to the bottom of the pumpkin. Do this after the final coat from step #4 loses its shine, but do not wait until it is dry enough to crack.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Squatty Pumpkin #1
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 3 coats to the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-042 Teal Blue, apply 3 coats to the body (not the stem). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-202 White Cobblestone, apply 3 coats to the body of the pumpkin (not the stem). Allow glaze to lose its shine before applying the second and third coats, but do not wait until it is dry enough to crack.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Squatty Pumpkin #2
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour out around 2 TBS of FN-001 White and FN-042 Teal Blue onto the palette. Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 1 coat to the top half of the pumpkin (not the stem). Dip the same brush into FN-042 Teal Blue and blend down to the bottom of the pumpkin. Repeat for a total of 3 coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-042 Teal Blue, apply 3 coats to Stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-202 White Cobblestone, apply 3 coats to the body of the pumpkin (not the stem). Allow glaze to lose its shine before applying the second and third coats, but do not wait until it is dry enough to crack.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the pencil to draw 4 wavy lines going around the tumbler. This will create 5 different sections. The directions will refer to each section as 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th going from top to bottom.
Using the Script Liner with SC-28 Blue Isle, apply 2 coats to the 5th section and bottom of the tumbler. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-80 Basketball, apply 2 coats to the 2nd and 4th sections. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-51 Poo Bear, apply 2 coats to the 1st and 3rd sections. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out around 1 TSP of SC-99 Charming onto the palette. Take the back of the brush handle and dip it into the glaze. Press in the middle of the 3rd section, going around the tumble. Repeat until you have a line of dots going around the tumbler.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-96 Aqu-ward, apply 2 coats to the inside of the tumbler.
Dip into NT-CLR Clear One Dipping Glaze.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Arched Tumbler:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with SC-51 Poo Bear, apply 2 coats to the outside of the mug, around the arches. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-58 501 Blues, apply 2 coats to the outer arches. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-79 It’s Sage, apply 2 coats to the inner arches. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-99 Charming, apply 2 coats to the bottom lip and bottom of the tumbler. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-99 Charming, make a line going around each arch. Use the groove as a guide.
Squeeze out around 1 TSP of SC-80 Basketball onto the palette. Take the back of the brush handle and dip it into the glaze. Press in a line going around the arches. Repeat until you have a line of dots going around the arches.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-80 Basketball, apply 2 coats to the inside of the tumbler. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Dip into NT-CLR Clear One Dipping glaze.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Retro Mug:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-42 Butter Me Up, apply 2 coats to the outside of the mug (not foot or bottom). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
After glaze from Step #2 is bone dry, use MC-001 6mm Low Tack Masking Tape to tape around the borders of the “scooped” sections of the mug.
Using the Script Liner with SC-28 Blue Isle, SC-50 Orange Ya Happy and SC-79 It’s Sage, apply 2 coats to each “scoop” going around the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Remove tape before glaze is bone dry.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-99 Charming, apply 2 coats to the foot and bottom of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-28 Blue Isle, apply 2 coats to the inside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2-3 coats of FN-014 Antique White to the top side of the plate. Allow to dry.
Using AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern, trace the pattern onto the plate.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats each of the following colors to the areas listed: SC-20 Cashew Later to the nose and hands of the gnome. SC-16 Cotton Tail to the beard. SC-55 Yella Bout It to the wings and flower petals. SC-42 Butter Me Up to the hat, every other stripe on the body, and the flower center. SC-15 Tuxedo to the antennae, shoes, and every other stripe in the body.
Using a CB-310 #10 Flat Shader, shade the nose and hands with SC-2 Melon Choly. Shade the wings and flower petals with SC-51 Poo Bear. Shade the SC-42 Butter Me Up areas with SC-5 Tiger Tail. Shade the shoes with SC-35 Grey Hare and stipple some on the antennae.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, blend some streaks of SC-35 Grey Hare in the beard.
Using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, Apply 2 coats of SC51 Poo Bear to the honeycomb. Allow to dry.
Outline the entire design using French Dimensions FD254 Black Licorice. Allow to dry.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN-009 Black to the back of the plate. Allow to dry.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of SC-7 Leapin’ Lizard to the top side of the plate. Allow to Dry!
Using a BT-910 Synthetic Sponge, dampen the sponge in water then squeeze out all the water then roll in between paper towel to remove any remaining water. You want the sponge damp not wet. All the colors are applied one after another blending on the plate, do not was the sponge between colors. Starting with SC-7 Lepeain’ Lizard sponge the plate first. Next sponge some SC-43 Lettuce Alone then some SC-77 Glo Worm then add in some SC-96 Aqu-ward finally you will add some SC-36 Irish Luck to one corner of the plate. Allow to dry!
Using AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper under the patter, trace the pattern onto the plate.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2-3 coats of SC-1 Pink-A-Boo to the flower petals. Allow to dry!
Using a CB-106#6 Script Liner, load the brush with SC-17 Cheeky Pinky then pull the color down the petal, while the color is still wet pull in Some SC-95 Pinkie Swear then pull in some SC-3 Wine about it. (do not was brush between each color)
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2-3 coats of SC-34 Down to Earth to the center of the flower.
Using a CB-202 #2 Detail Liner, apply the seeds in the center of the flower with SC-41 Brown Cow doing a pressure stroke, 1 coat. Load the brush with SC-41 Brown Cow and side load with SC-25 Crackerjack Brown applying a second coat. Apply a highlight of SC-97 Cant-elope to the right side of the seed. When dry, use the end of the brush handle to apply dots of SC-55 Yella Bout It to the tops of the seeds.
Using a C110 #10/0 and a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, add veins to the flower petals and fill in between the petals with SC-15 Tuxedo.
Using a CB-202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 3 coats of SC-16 Cotton Tail to the wings, the butt end of the bee and the yellow stripes on the bee.
Using a CB-202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 3 coats of SC-42 Butter Me Up to the yellow stripes on the bee.
Using a CB-202 #2 Detail Liner, shade the wings and the white area on the bee with SC-35 Grey Hare. Shade the yellow stripe with SC-97 Cant-elope and add some to the wings.
Using a CB-202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 2 coats of SC-15 Tuxedo to the remaining are of the bee.
Using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, add some shading of SC-41 Brown Cow to the legs and face area of the bee.
Using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, detail the wings of the bee and add fine lines of SC-15 Tuxedo creating the look of fur. Allow to dry!
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN-009 Black to the back of the plate. Allow to dry!
Use the Clean Up Tool to remove the seam lines from the ware. Use the Green Grit Cloth to further smooth the seam line and any imperfections on the piece. Use a moistened Synthetic Sponge to wipe down the piece to remove any dust.
Fire to Shelf Cone 04-05.
To the top third of the pumpkin apply 2 coats of SC-23 Jack O’Lantern using CB-604 Soft Fan. Let dry.
Apply 2 heavy coats SC-97 Cant-elope to the high points on the pumpkin sections over the Jack O’Lantern using CB-406 Pointed Round. Tapper the glaze as you move down the sides of the pumpkin.
Apply 1 coat of SW-164 Satin Patina to the stem using CB-406 Pointed Round.
Stir and shake SW-155 Winter Wood. Use CB-604 Soft Fan to apply 1 coat of SW-155 Winter Wood to the pumpkin excluding the bottom and stem. For the second coat of glaze, tapper the amount of glaze and crystal towards the bottom of the piece. Do not glaze the bottom of the piece as it is not stilted in Firing. Apply only 1 coat of Winter Wood over the stem.
Wipe off the bottom of the piece using a moistened Synthetic Sponge to ensure there is no glaze on the bottom before Firing
Fire the piece to Shelf Cone 5-6 (Mid-range).
Form
CD524 9” Small Slim Pumpkin (poured in Cone 5-6 Stoneware slip)
Use a moistened Synthetic Sponge to wipe down the Stoneware Bisque Bowl to remove any dust and debris.
Use a Ruler and Pencil to divide up the bowl into quarters.
Use the 1” Sponge-on-a-Stick to apply two coats of SC-74 Hot Tamale below the rim markings to the equally divided marks. Let each coat of color dry between coats. Paint in two lines around inside border of bowl along the rim.
Use the ¼” Sponge-on-a-Stick to apply two coats of three alternating rows of SC-72 Candy Appy Red. Let each coat of color dry between coats.
Fill AC-220 Detailer Bottle with SC-73 Candy Apple Red and trail two alternating heavy lines of color along rimmed lines on bowl border. Empty bottle after use for next color.
Fill AC-220 with SW-402 Dark Flux and make scalloped lines above each row of SC-73. Trail a heavy line of flux above and between each line of color along rim border. Let Dry
Apply 2-3 coats of SW-112 Tiger Eye using CB-604 Soft Fan over entire surface excluding foot and bottom of bowl. Back off third coat of glaze near the bottom of the bowl.
Use a moistened Synthetic Sponge to wipe off any glaze from foot and bottom of bowl before firing.
Do not Stilt ware for Firing. Fire to Shelf Cone 5-6 (Mid-range) with a 10 min hold. Do not span the foot of the bowl over edge of kiln shelf during firing.
Wipe down the bisque platter with a moistened Synthetic Sponge to remove any dust and debris.
Place on the Tile the four Speckled Stroke and Coats. Load the CB-604 Soft Fan with some SP-216 Speckled Cotton Tail. Start applying the color in a crisscross motion, pick up some of one of the colors and wet blend the color onto the back ground. Repeat this process with the other colors until the entire surface is covered. There should be no harsh delineations in the colors. A random mottled effect is what the background should look like. Let dry.
Using a Pencil and AC-230 Clay Carbon to transfer the pattern. Use the Scissors to cut up the pattern to ease in the application of the pattern.
On a tile place all of the other Stroke and Coats. Note the colors on the tile. The painting process is a water color effect. Load the brush with water and then tip the brush into the desired color to paint. Rinse the brush often during painting.
SC-23 Jack-O-Lantern to the pumpkin and some areas of the oak leaves.
SC-97 Cant-elope to the highlight on the pumpkin, to the flower shading and some edges of oak leaves.
SC-24 Dandelion to the flower petals.
SC-32 Bluebeard to the ends of the berries.
SC-40 Blueberry Hill to other half of berries.
SC-82 Tuscan Red to the ends of the berry leaves.
SC-8 Just Froggy to the berry leaves near the stems, parts of oak leaves.
SC-52 Toad-ily Green to some of the oak leaves, pumpkin leaves.
SC-25 Crackerjack to the bottom portions on acorns.
SC-10 Teal Next Time to the shadows on pumpkin leaves. Keep this color light.
SC-14 Java Bean to branches.
Use CB-110 Liner to detail the pattern loaded with SC-39 Army Surplus on the leaves. Pumpkin, acorn and flower are detailed with SC-14 Java Bean, SC-34 Down To Earth to branches, acorns and stamens.
Use CB-404 # 4 Round to paint in the lettering loaded with SC-34 Down To Earth. Two coats are necessary for solid coverage. Take your time in painting the lettering. Break down the strokes of the lettering when painting as you would with a calligraphy ink pen.
Apply 3 coats of FN-008 Brown to the back of the platter using CB-604 Soft Fan.
Use CB-604 Soft Fan to apply 1- 2 coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing to the front of the platter.
To the damp greenware remove the seams using a Clean Up Tool.
Use the Pen to trace the pattern onto the ware.
Take a piece of Moist Clay about ¼” thick and form a “fan” shape about the size of the leaf. Thin out the bottom of the fan shape by squeezing the edge between your thumb and index finger. This will give the illusion of a thinner leaf. The bottom edge should have a ruffle look to it. Use the Clean Up Tool to score (scratch) some lines where the leaves will be placed. Using CB-404 Pointed Round to apply Slip to the leaf and vase. Adhere the leaf to the vase. Repeat this for the second leaf. Do not completely attach the bottom edges of the leaf to the ware. Lift the edges and give them shape.
Using the ¼” half round circle die in the Handheld Extruder loaded with Moist Clay to squeeze out about 7” long piece. Score the area where the stem will be place and attach with Slip. The one stem overlapping the other may will need some extra clay to build up the stem.
Use a Modeling Tool to shape the turn-backs along the sides of the leaves. Use the curved end of the Clean Up Tool to scratch in the texture to the leaves excluding the turn-backs. Once the basic structure of the leave are completed, drape a Plastic Shopping Bag over the piece to retard the drying process.
Once the piece has firmed up but isn’t completely dry is the time to finish cleaning up the vase and leaves that you have sculpted. Refine the edges of the leaves.
Loosely drape the piece again with the Plastic Shopping Bag and let it completely dry. Check the piece for any imperfections before firing. Make any final modifications to the leaves. Make sure the piece is fully dry before firing.
Fire the piece to Shelf Cone 04.
Thin some FN-009 Black in a Plastic Cup to a melted ice cream consistency. Pour the thinned glaze into the vase. While working quickly, rotate the piece to coat the inside of the vase. Pour out excess glaze and invert it to drain. Wipe off any excess glaze from the ware using a moistened Synthetic Sponge.
Apply 1 coat of FN-001White to the leaves and stem using a brush sized for the area.
To the top leaf and stem apply 2 coats of EL-128 Wheat with CB-404 Pointed Round. Steak in some EL-142 Grass using CB-110 Liner in the leaf and along the edge of the stem next to the background. Apply some EL-143 Cactus Flower randomly toward the bottom edge of the leaf using CB-404 Pointed Round.
To the bottom leaf apply 2 random coats of EL-143 Cactus Flower to where the leaf still has no glaze on it.. Apply two coats of Cactus Flower to stem. Use CB-110 Liner to streak in some EL-142 Grass green in the leaf and along the edge of the stem next to background. Apply some EL-128 Wheat to the leaf where you have no Cactus Flower and to the turn-backs using CB-404 Pointed Round.
Share and Stir CG-798 Iris Black. Use CB-604 Soft Fan and CB-404 Pointed Round to apply 2-3 coats to the outside of the vase excluding the leaves and stems. Let dry.
Stilt and Fire the piece to Shelf Cone 05-06.
Form
CD815 Short Envelope Vase (Keep the piece damp after pouring)
Check the bisque ware over for any blemishes and remove by lightly sanding with fine sandpaper.
Center the provided pattern with pencil and the Clay Carbon trace the design onto the ware.
Damp sponge ware to remove any dust and to condition the piece for decorating. The damp sponging will not harm the traced design.
Place the Stroke ‘n Coat as needed on the palette and condition with a few drops of water if product is extremely thick.
Place Java Bean, Cracker Jack and Down to Earth on palette. These should be thinned to a milk like consistency. Add water and mix with Palette Knife. (Note: Brown tones have a tendency to be thicker in the jar than other Stroke ‘n Coat colors.
Using a water dampened #8 Pointed Round fully loaded with thinned Cracker Jack and heavily tip in the thinned Java Bean. Working horizontally, with the point of the brush directed upward to the horizon line begin the streak in the foreground. Hold the brush almost on the flat work back and forth several times to achieve complete streaked coverage to the ground. Water can be used to soften the color. Reload often and make sure the application of color remains straight across the bottom section of the plate. Allow to set.
With water dampened #8 Pointed Round pick up Down to Earth on its tip and blend on the palette. Again, with the point of the Round directed upward to the horizon add soft shading, along the horizon line under the pumpkin and leaves. Also, streak in some shading here and there to the foreground.
Note Steps 6 and 7 may need to be repeated a second time if application appear extremely thin.
Place Sour Apple, Toad-ily Green, Irish Luck, Sunkissed and Cant-elope. These colors will be used on the leaves.
Block in the leaves with a smooth coat of Sour Apple, using #6 Pointed Round.
Reload with Sour Apple and side load Toad-ily Green, with the Toad-ily to the left side of each leaf apply color from the base to tip working the loaded brush across the leaf.
Side load the #6 Pointed Round with Sunkissed and float color down the right side of the leaf.
Side load the #6 Pointed Round with Cant-elope and float in color over the Sunkissed.
Allow to dry.
Corner load #8 Flat Shader with Irish Luck and float in shading to the leaves, under pumpkin, down the left side of each leaf and the center of the leaf. Be sure to use Shader on the flat.
Detailing will be done later.
Complete the Ghost as follows:
Fully load #6 Pointed Round with Cotton Tail and block in one coat to entire Ghost
Reload the Round with the Cotton Tail and side load with Silver Lining. Keeping the Silver Lining to the outside edge of Ghost apply a second coat. The Silver Lining will create a shadow around the entire Ghost.
Paint in the mouth with a coat of Silver Lining.
Paint in the eyes with Sour Apple.
Detailing will be done later.
To the palette add Jack o’ Lantern, Orange Ya Happy, and more Cant-elope.
Complete the Pumpkin as follows working one segment at a time. For best result work for the outer segments inward. Do not cover the cut-out design of the face while painting in the segments.
Block in segment with Cant-elope using the #4 or #6 Pointed Round. One smooth coat is sufficient.
Reload the Round with Cant-elope and side load with both Jack O’ Lantern and Orange Ya Happy. Blend the colors together on palette. With the darker shades direct to the inner edge of each segment apply a second coat. Be sure to app pressure to the brush thus softening the bending of the darker colors.
Repeat the process for all segment except for the middle piece.
When the color has set side load the Round with Orange Ya Happy and float another coat along the darker edge of the painted segments.
The middle segment should be kept lighter in tone, therefore apply two coats of Cant-elope to the remaining segment
With #0 Detail block in two coats of Sunkissed to the small cuts to the mouth and the eyes.
Fill in the eyes and mouth with two to three coats of Tuxedo using the #4 Pointed Round. The pumpkin will be detailed later.
The stem is completed in two segments. To the lower segment apply two coats of Java Bean, with #4 Pointed Round. When dry shade the upper edge, down one side of the stem and from the bottom of stem upward with Down to Earth. Follow the contour of the stem.
The upper segment is block in with two coats of Java Bean and the upper edge is shaded with Down to Earth.
Detail the stem with thinned Down to Earth and Tuxedo using 10/0 Liner
Place Orkid, Grapel, Blue Yonder and Blue Dawn thin the colors to a wash consistency. These colors will be used for the soft “water-color” background. To the right of the pumpkin more of the purple tones were used and to the left more of the blue tone. The color merge and overlap each other at the top of the plate. Use the # 8 Pointed Round that is fully load with water and then tip with a color. The brush is used on the flat.
Start with Grapel and work color away from the ground, leaves and ghost. Swish and swirl the color in place and try to stay off the of the previously applied color. Reload as needed.
As the color is pulled out about an 1½“ away from the design pick up the lighter Orkid color and bring color out to the edge of plate. Apply color over the unpainted spider web.
To the left side of the Pumpkin use the Blue Yonder and Blue Dawn. The Blue Yonder is used closest to the leaves, ground and Pumpkin pulled out in the same manner as the purple tones.
Proceed to pick up the Blue Dawn and swish and swirl the color to the outer edge of the plate.
As the two colors meet work one over the other blending the two colors together.
With #4 Pointed Round and #10/0 Mini Liner pull is the tree to the left of the design using all three of the Browns (Cracker Jack, Java Bean and Down to Earth. Work from the base of tree upward. Try to create a bark like finish with coloration.
Thin down the Tuxedo to a milk like consistent and with the #10/0 Mini Liner pull in the spider web. By moving slowly one coat should be enough for good coverage, however if color appears light carefully apply a second coat.
The thinned Tuxedo should be used to:
Detail the Ghost adding an outline, outlining the eyes, painting the pupils and accent the mouth
Accent outline the stem with fine lines.
Accent the tree with fine Lines
With the #0 Detail add tiny leaves to the tree using Sour Apple tip with Toad-ily Green. Additional leaves are added with Sunkissed and tipped with Jack 0’ Lantern. These leaves are small and should be randomly applied with tiny pressure strokes.
With thinned Irish Luck and #10/0 Liner
Outline and detail the leaves around the pumpkin
Pull in the scroll like tendrils,
Pull in the tuffs of grass as shown on pattern working from the group upward.
With thinned Down to Earth with broken line outline the segments of the pumpkins. Add a few detail lines here and there on the Pumpkin. Sign your name as well.Also accent the ground with a few fine lines. All using the #10/0 Liner.
Place the plate on a turntable and center.
Thin the Tuxedo slightly and dampen the 1” Foam Brush. Fully load one side of the foam brush and proceed to band the rim of the plate. Two to three passes may be needed.
Allow to dry 24-hours.
With slightly thinned Crystal Clear Brushing apply two coat over the entire plate. Allowing some drying time between coats.
Stilt ware and fire to shelf cone 06.
Remove stilt marks with Dremel Tool or Stilt Stone.
Check the bisque ware over for any blemishes and remove by lightly sanding with fine sandpaper.
Damp sponge ware to remove any dust and to condition the piece for decorating.
Into a paper cup place Tuscan Turquoise, using the entire 2 oz bottle.
Also into the paper cup add approximating ½ ounce of Matte Transparent. Mix thoroughly with palette knife.
Pour the mix on to the palette.
Pick up the mixed Tuscan Turquoise on to the sponge and proceed to pounce sponge the three solid textured coats over the canvas ware, including the side and small rim on the back of canvas. Allow each coat some drying time. When finished set piece aside to thoroughly dry.
Using the Clay Carbon, provided pattern and pencil/pen carefully trace the design onto the ware. Try not to score the ware while tracing. Note: the Clay Carbon will not work if the ware is damp from the color application.
Place Snowfall onto the palette and condition with palette knife. Do not thin the color, work the palette knife through the Specialty Glaze, thus making the painting easier to brush with.
Fully load the #6 Pointed Round with the conditioned Snowfall. Begin to apply two heavy coats of the Snowfall to the flower petals. As the color is applied create raised area here and there along the outer edges of the petals. Try to achieve some dimension to each of the petals.
The center of the two flowers should be filled with a generous build up of Snowfall which should appear more raised than the actual applied petals.
Allow the Snowfall some drying time.
Place Marine Blue on the palette and thin slightly with a few drops of water. Mix with palette knife. Consistency should be of light cream.
Dampen the #8 Flat Shader with water. Remove excess water onto a paper towel. Proceed to corner load the Shader with the slightly thinned Marine Blue.
The leaves are floated in with color using the corner loaded #8 Flat Shader, keeping the color to the outer edges of each leaf. For best results work from base of the to the tip, use the shader on the not just the corner loaded edge. Reload as needed. If leaves are completed correctly the center of each leaf will be free of the Marine Blue.
Fully load the 10/0 Mini Liner with Marine Blue and outline the leaves with a smooth outline, add a center and side veins to each leaf and finally pull in a gnarled looking branch and twig attached. One coat should be sufficient
Corner loading the Shader with Marine Blue float in shading to the petals were the applied center overlap the petals. Complete the shading one petal at a time.
Float in shading to the petals along the inner edge of the raised edge. Also shade the petals where an overlapping petal would create a shadow on its neighboring petals. Be sure to keep the shading soft and blended in appearance. Again reload as needed.
With #6 Pointed Round loaded with Marine Blue press, pull and lift three small pressure strokes to the base of the bud to form a calyx.
To opened flowers (not the bud) pull in five to seven fine vein lines from the center outward on to each petal. These lines should be of varying lengths. Complete these lines with the #10/0 Mini Liner.
Add tinny Marine Blue dots to the center of the fully opened flowers, using the tip #10/0 Mini Liner.
Sign the piece.
Since Matte Transparent Clear has been added to the Fundamentals proceed to stilt the piece and fire to shelf cone 04 or 06.
Special note: If this piece were to be glaze with either a matte or gloss glaze the intensity of the Marine Blue will be diminished due to the fact there is only a thin application of color. By adding the Matte Transparent to the original base coat help intensifies the over all look of the non-glazed Fundamentals.
Special Note: When work with the EZ-Strokes color over an unfired glaze type surface, try not to apply the colors too heavily. Heavy color application will sometime cause the color the blister on the glaze surface during firing, There for blend out all heavy ridges of color.
Check the ware over for any blemishes, if present sand them off with 100-grit sandpaper.
Damp sponge the ware to condition for decorating and to remove any fired dust or dirt from the ware’s surface.
Place approximately 2 ounces of Really White into a paper and thin slightly with a few drop of water.
Using the #8 Soft Fan apply three very smooth coats of the Really White to inside and side of the ware. Do not apply any glaze to the bottom of the ware. Also leave ¼” from the bottom upward without any Concept color.
Allow ware to dry 24-hours.
Using the Clay Carbon, provided pattern and pen/pencil trace the pattern onto the center of the ware. Try not to score the ware when tracing.
Place the EZ-Stroke Colors on the palette as need and if color is extremely thick add a few drops of water.
The leaves are blending of the EZ-Strokes that have been loaded on to the #4 or #6 Pointed, side loaded with another color and tip in a third. Work from the rounded tip of each segment back towards the base of the leaf. Strokes should overlap one another and the overlapping should be blended out. One coat should be sufficient for coverage. However, a second thin application of colors may be applied if the need arises.
Here are a few examples of color loading for the leaves. Be sure to change the colors and two toned leaves can be created Use the color photograph as a guide.
Load with Chartreuse, side load with Leaf Green and tip with Ivy Green
Load with Yellow Orange, side load with Poppy Orange and tip with Passion Red
Load with Poppy Orange, side load with Passion Red tip with Yellow Orange
Load with Yellow Orange, tip in Leaf Green and tip again in Ivy Green
If desired Sienna Brown may be added to some the red/orange leaves.
Any combinations of colors will work, however be careful with the reds with the greens, this combination can muddy out and turn brownish.
The bottom section of the four acorns are blocked in with a thin coat of Yellow Orange, using the #8 Flat Shader. When applying the color follow the contour of the acorn. Allow to set before proceeding.
Using the #4 Pointed Round block in the tops of acorn’s with two thin coats of Sienna Brown. The single acorn cap should be painted in as well.
Reload #8 Flat Shader with the Yellow Orange and corner load on the same corner of the brush with Poppy Orange and Passion Red. Working with the flat of the brush shade the two darker colors under the Sienna Brown cap and down the left side of each acorn bottom section. Rinse the brush.
Corner load with #8 Flat Shader with Chartreuse and float the color down the right side of acorn’s bottom section.
Corner load the #8 Flat Shader with French Brown and float in shading to the top edge of the all the caps and to the middle section of the cap only to the right of the design.
Thin down the French Brown slightly, with the #10/0 Liner fully loaded begin to detail the entire design.
Outline and vein the leaves
Outline the acorns and add the cross-hatching to the top of the caps.
Pull in the stems
Sign the piece.
Place the pie plate on the turntable and center it.
Thin down Poppy Orange slightly and dampen the 1” foam brush with water.
Fully load one side of the foam brush with the thinned Poppy Orange. Proceed to band the edge of the pie plate with the loaded foam brush. Several passes will be needed, since the foam brush has a tendency to remove damp color.
Using an old tooth brush with French Brown spatter the entire inside of pie plate.
Place ware on a kiln washed kiln shelf and fire to cone 6.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using an AB-708 #10 Shader, apply AC-523 Non-Fired Snow around the edge of both gnomes’ hats creating a textured edge to the hats. Allow to dry!
Using a Basecoat Brush, basecoat the hats including the fur trim, dress and shirt of the gnomes with OS435 Dark Yellow. Allow to dry!
Measure ½” stripes on the boy gnome’s shirt and the girl gnome’s hat. You can use either a ruler to measure or ½” masking tape.
Referring to the photo. Using an AB-708 #10 Shader, shade every other stripe with SS-254 Golden Ochre on the boy gnome’s shirt and the girl gnome’s hat. Also, you want to shade in all the deep crevices of the dress and shirt and above the fur trim on the boy’s hat.
Using an AB-705 #5 Round, apply SS-254 Golden Ochre under both hats and under the sleaves edge.
Using a DB-802 #5 Round Dry Brush, drybrush the fur trim with OS435 Dark Yellow then highlight it with OS433 Pale Yellow.
Using an AB-702 #10/0 Liner and an AB-705 #5 Round, apply SS-138 Flat Black to all the black stripes on the boy’s shirt and the girl’s dress.
Using an AB-705 #5 Round, basecoat the boy’s beard with OS475 Charcoal and the Girl’s hair with OS567 Ash.
Using a DB-802 #5 Round Dry Brush, drybrush the boy’s beard with OS567 Ash then with SS-130 Light Gray, highlight with SS-135 White.
Using a DB-802 #5 Round Dry Brush, drybrush the girl’s hair with SS-130 Light Gray then highlight with SS-135 White
Using an AB-705 #5 Round, basecoat both noses with SS-192 Light Taupe.
Using an AB-708 #10 Shader, shade the noses with SS-183 Rich Peach.
Add dots to the boy’s hat using the end of a brush handle with SS-138 Flat Black.
Using an AB-705 #5 Round, apply a pressure stroke to create each petal of the flower with SS-130 Medium Gray. This is done to block out the yellow color.
Using an AB-705 #5 Round, apply a pressure stroke to create each petal of the flower with SS-135 White.
Using the end of a brush handle, add a dot of OS435 Dark Yellow to create the flower center. Shade one side of the center with SS-210 Orange.
Using an AB-705 #5 Round, apply a pressure stroke to create the leaves with SS-19 Country Sage then reload the brush with the SS-19 Country Sage then tip into SS-57 Accent Green to shade each leaf.
Using an AB-702 #10/0 Liner, add some vein lines to each petal with SS-130 Medium Gray.
The hair bands on the girl are OS435 Dark Yellow shaded with SS-254 Golden Ochre.
Allow to dry!
Apply 2 coats of SS342 C Matte Spray Sealer to each piece. Allow to dry!
You can add some decorative little bees to each gnome.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Take the ruler and place it vertically on the outside of the mug. Use the pencil to mark the center point between the top and bottom of the mug. Mark the center point going around the mug. This will help you place the tape in the next step.
Take MC-002 12mm Low Tack Masking Tape and place a continuous piece going around center of the mug. The top edge of the tape should be below your dots, so that you can glaze the upper half of the mug first.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 3 coats to the top half of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Remove the tape. Allow glaze to dry.
Take MC-002 12mm Low Tack Masking Tape and place a continuous piece going around center of the mug. The bottom edge of the tape should be lined up with the bottom edge of the area you glazed in Step #4.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-002 Yellow, apply 3 coats of glaze to the bottom half of the mug, handle, bottom and inside. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Remove the tape.
Squeeze around 1 TBS of SG-408 Orange onto the palette. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or Designer Liner.
Take DSS-0164 Continuous Swirls Screen and place it going around the bottom of the mug, shiny side down. It is helpful to tape it in place to prevent it from slipping.
While holding the screen firmly in place, scoop a small amount of premixed silkscreen medium onto the squeegee and pull across the screen. Repeat until the entire bottom half of the mug has been screened.
Place the pattern over the top half of the mug. Slide AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern. Trace with the pencil.
Outline the pattern on the top half of the mug with FD-254 Black Licorice. Allow glaze to dry.
Using the Script Liner with CG-788 Dutch Enamelware, apply 1 puddle coat to each of the wings.
Using the Script Liner with CG-798 Black Iris, apply 1 puddle coat to the black sections of the bees.
Using the Script Liner with S-2729 Citrus Splash, apply 1 puddle coat to the yellow sections of the bees.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 3 coats to the outside of the mug (everything but the handle and inside). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-002 Yellow, apply 3 coats to the handle and inside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Place the pattern over the outside of the mug. Slide AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern. Trace with the pencil. It is helpful to tape the pattern in place.
Use the pencil to make wavy lines going around the bees. These will be the different areas of dots.
Outline the bees with FD-254 Black Licorice. Allow glaze to dry.
Using the Script Liner with CG-788 Dutch Enamelware, apply 1 puddle coat to each of the wings.
Using the Script Liner with CG-798 Black Iris, apply 1 puddle coat to the black sections of the bees.
Using the Script Liner with S-2729 Citrus Splash, apply 1 puddle coat to the yellow sections of the bees.
Using SG-408 Orange, SG-409 Bright Green and SG-410 Bright Blue, make dots in each of the different sections created by your lines from Step #5.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the scissors to cut out the lettering from the pattern.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 1 coat to the front of the plate.
Use the sponge to wet the back of the lettering, then place in the center of the plate. Press down on the edges with the damp sponge. Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 1 coat over the edges of the lettering.
Use the scissors to cut out 10-20 thin strips of paper (1/4” – 1” thick). Cut the paper horizontally, so that the strips are long enough to go across the plate.
Squeeze out around 1 TBS of SC-24 Dandelion, SC-28 Blue Isle and SC-88 Tu Tu Tango onto the palette.
Take 1 strip of paper and glaze the back with one of the glazes from Step #6. Then press the paper (glaze side down) onto the top of the plate. Remove and discard. The paper should be going horizontally across the plate. Repeat, going down the plate.
Remove the “dad” pattern.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline “Dad”.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-702 Speckta-Clear Celebration, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper over the front of the plate. Place the pattern on top and trace with the pencil. You can also draw your own Georgia O’Keeffe inspired flower. You just need to choose a flower and draw it “zoomed in” on the center.
Squeeze out around 1 TBS of SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, SC-16 Cotton Tail, SC-24 Dandelion, SC-88 Tu Tu Tango and SC-97 Cant-elope onto the palette.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton tail, apply 1 coat to the inner half of 1 petal (choose from the 5 in the foreground). While the glaze is still wet, use the same brush with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo to blend out to the edge of the petal. While the glaze is still wet, use the same brush with SC-88 Tu Tu Tango to blend color into the outer edge of the petal. Repeat for a second coat. Then repeat for all 5 petals.
Using the Script Liner with SC-97 Cant-elope, make small accents of color on the petals. Try to concentrate them on the outer edge and borders of the petals.
Using the Script Liner with SC-88 Tu Tu Tango, apply 1 coat to the inner half of 1 petal (choose from the 5 in the background). While the glaze is still wet, use the same brush with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo to blend out to the edge of the petal. Repeat for a second coat. Then repeat for all 5 petals.
Using the Script Liner with SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 1 coat around the outer edge of the center of the flower. While the glaze is still wet, use the same brush with SC-24 Dandelion to blend to the center. Repeat for a second coat.
Dip the end of your brush handle into SC-16 Cotton Tail. Press onto the center of the flower. Repeat until it’s full of white dots.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the center and petals of the flower.
Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apple 2 coats to the background on the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
After the glaze is dry, place AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper over the front of the plate. Place the pattern on top and trace with the pencil.
Using the Detail Liner with AC-302 Wax Resist, trace over the pattern on the front of the plate. Make a line going around the rim of the plate.
Using the Script Liner with EL-142 Grass, apply 2 coats to the center of the flower. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply a 3rd coat just to the center portion (the inner area ¼” from the edge of the area you just glazed).
Using the Script Liner with EL-127 Rose Granite, apply 2 coats to the row of small petals. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply a 3rd coat just to the center portion (the inner area ¼” from the edge of the area you just glazed).
Using the Script Liner with EL-128 Wheat apply 2 coats to the large petals. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply a 3rd coat just to the center portion (the inner area ¼” from the edge of the area you just glazed).
Using the Script Liner with EL-130 Sea Green, apply 2 coats to the background. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply a 3rd coat just to the center portion (the inner area ¼” from the edge of the area you just glazed).
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 3 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
After the glaze is dry, place AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper over the front of the plate. Place the pattern on top and trace with the pencil. You can also draw your own Frida portrait with the pencil.
Using the Detail Liner with AC-302 Wax Resist, trace over the pattern on the front of the plate. Make a line going around the rim of the plate.
Using the Script Liner with EL-110 Mudslide, apply 2 coats to the skin. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply a 3rd coat just to the center portion (the inner area ¼” from the edge of the area you just glazed).
Using the Script Liner with EL-101 Oyster Shell, apply 2 coats to the jewelry, eyes and flower petals (center and right flower). Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply a 3rd coat just to the center portion (the inner area ¼” from the edge of the area you just glazed). Apply a dot to the center of the 2 flowers on the left and the 3 small ones on the right.
Using the Script Liner with EL-128 Wheat apply 2 coats to outer portion of the 2 flowers on the left. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply a 3rd coat just to the center portion (the inner area ¼” from the edge of the area you just glazed). Apply a dot to the center of the flower in the center on the right.
Using the Script Liner with EL-127 Rose Granite, apply 2 coats to the lips and the inner portion of the 2 flowers on the left. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply a 3rd coat just to the center portion (the inner area ¼” from the edge of the area you just glazed).
Using the Script Liner with EL-148 Smoked Lilac, apply 2 coats to the 3 small flowers on the right. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply a 3rd coat just to the center portion (the inner area ¼” from the edge of the area you just glazed).
Using the Script Liner with EL-130 Sea Green, apply 2 coats to the background. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply a 3rd coat just to the center portion (the inner area ¼” from the edge of the area you just glazed).
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 3 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Apply 3 coats of CC-108 China Sea to the top 2/3 of vase.
Apply 3 coats of CC-102 White to the bottom 1/3 of vase.
Heat kiln to 1850F.
At 1850F carefully remove piece from kiln with metal tongs, and place into trash can with combustibles. Quickly place lid over can, causing reduction to occur.
Allow the combustion chamber to cool. Remove the pot and wipe carbon residue off with clean cloth.
Vase #2
Begin with properly fired bisque.
Apply 2 coats of RK-106 Peacock Matte.
Apply a third coat to the neck of the vase. This will result in a rougher textured finish.
Heat kiln to 1850F.
At 1850F carefully remove piece from kiln with metal tongs, and place into trash can with combustibles. Quickly place lid over can, causing reduction to occur.
Allow the combustion chamber to cool. Remove the pot and wipe carbon residue off with clean cloth.
Vase #3
Begin with properly fired bisque.
Apply 3 coats of RK-100 Black.
Heat kiln to 1850F.
At 1850F carefully remove piece from kiln with metal tongs, and place into trash can with combustibles. Quickly place lid over can, causing reduction to occur.
Allow the combustion chamber to cool. Remove the pot and wipe carbon residue off with clean cloth.
Vase #4
Begin with properly fired bique.
Apply 3 coats of RK-105 Copper Penny
Heat kiln to 1850F.
At 1850F carefully remove piece from kiln with metal tongs, and place into trash can with combustibles. Quickly place lid over can, causing reduction to occur.
Allow the combustion chamber to cool. Remove the pot and wipe carbon residue off with clean cloth.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 1 coat to the front of the plate.
Use the scissors to cut out the rooster pattern. Place the pattern on the front of the plate and trace around the pattern with the pencil. Then trace over the inner portions of the pattern (you should be able to see an indent in the glaze). Keep the pattern on the plate for the next step.
Squeeze around 1 TBS of SC-92 Café Ole onto the palette. Place ST-133 Wood Grain Stamp textured-side up on a flat surface. Use the sponge on a stick to sponge the glaze onto the stamp (stamp the palette to remove any excess glaze). Gently press the stamp (vertically) onto the plate. Repeat, going across the plate. Use one hand to hold the rooster pattern down. This will keep the stamping off of the area where the rooster will be.
Remove the caps from the bottles of SC-9 Jaded, SC-10 Teal Next Time, SC-24 Dandelion, SC-74 Hot Tamale and SC-75 Orange-A-Peel. Screw on an AC-224 Plastic Detailer Cap to each bottle.
Take the bottles of SC-24 Dandelion, SC-75 Orange-A-Peel and SC-74 Hot Tamale and make dots on the rooster’s body (in that order from top to bottom). Dots should be around ¼” to ½” apart. Quickly, take your finger and smear each dot in a small, downward stroke. Start at the top and work down.
Take the bottles of SC-10 Teal Next Time, SC-9 Jaded and SC-24 Dandelion and make dots on the rooster’s tail (in that order from bottom to top). Dots should be around ¼” to ½” apart. Quickly, take your finger and smear each dot in a long, upward stroke (to look like long tail feathers).
Take the bottle of SC-10 Teal Next Time and make a few dots at the top of the rooster’s legs, going toward the tail. Dots should be around ¼” to ½” apart. Quickly, take your finger and smear each dot in a small, downward stroke.
Replace the Detailer Caps with the original caps.
Using the Script Liner with SC-24 Dandelion, apply 2 coats to the beak and legs. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-74 Hot Tamale, apply 2 coats to the comb and wattle. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the rooster and add dots around the eye.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the back and rim of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with SP-215 Speckled Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the outside of the tumbler. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze around 1 TBS of SC-16 Cotton Tail onto the palette. Place ST-366 Fruit Blossoms Stamp textured-side up on a flat surface. Use the sponge on a stick to sponge the glaze onto the stamp (stamp the palette to remove any excess glaze). Gently press the stamp (vertically) onto the tumbler. Repeat, going around the tumbler.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-103 Sea Spray, apply 2 coats to upper half of the tumbler. It looks better if the bottom edge of the section is wavy instead of straight across the tumbler. Apply 3 coats to the inside of the tumbler. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-103 Sea Spray, apply a third coat to the upper half of the tumbler, but do not go all of the way down to where the 1st and 2nd coats ended. Leave at least ½”. This should be a very thick, drippy coat.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
On the DSS-0166 Tropical Leaves screen, locate the 3 monstera leaves. Draw an outline around them in permanent marker. Cut them out with excess screen around the edges.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 2 coats to the outside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze around 2 TBS of SC-28 Blue Isle, SC-36 Irish Luck and SC-97 Cant-elope onto the palette. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium to each glaze. Mix with a palette knife until they become the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or glaze.
Place the large monstera screen shiny-side down on the outside of the mug. While holding the screen firmly in place, take a small amount of premixed silkscreen medium (SC-97), and gently rub in circles starting in the center and working outward. Repeat in different locations on the outside of the mug.
Place the medium monstera screen shiny-side down on the outside of the mug. While holding the screen firmly in place, take a small amount of premixed silkscreen medium (SC-28), and gently rub in circles starting in the center and working outward. Repeat in different locations on the outside of the mug. Be sure to overlap some of the leaves from Step #5.
Place the small monstera screen shiny-side down on the outside of the mug. While holding the screen firmly in place, take a small amount of premixed silkscreen medium (SC-36), and gently rub in circles starting in the center and working outward. Repeat in different locations on the outside of the mug. Be sure to overlap some of the leaves from Steps #5 & #6.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-24 Dandelion, apply 2 coats to the inside and rim of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with S-2714 Herb Garden, apply 2 coats to the bottom half of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Divide the tile in to 3 uneven sections using a pencil.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2-3 heavy coats of CC-108 China Sea to the smallest section of the divided tile.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of EL-110 Mudslide to one section of the tile overlapping onto the CC-108 China Sea.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of EL-209 Night Sky to the remaining section of the tile overlapping the other two colors.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, plop 1 generous coat of PC-601 Clear Cascade over areas where each of the colors meet, leaving some space open between the plops. Without washing the brush plop some PC-602 White Cascade in between the spots left open and some here and there on the EL-209 Night Sky and the EL-110 Mudslide. Note: If you put to much of the Cascades onto the piece you can add more of the EL-209 Night Sky over that area and EL-110 Mudslide over that area.
Using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, apply veins of SC-15 Tuxedo. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
With a pencil, sketch on the Frog pattern, a foam plate was used to create the 3 different shapes of the frogs and a penny to create the eyes.
Place some SC-6 Sunkissed onto a plate. Using your finer tip apply 2 coats to the eyes to create the iris of the eye. Allow to dry!
Place a small amount of SC-8 Just Froggy onto a palette.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner or a Round Brush, apply 2-3 coats of SC-8 Just Froggy to the middle Frog.
Add some more of the SC-8 Just Froggy to the palette. Add about 12 drops of SC-16 Cotton Tail to the SC-8 Just Froggy and mix well to create a lighter green color.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner or a Round Brush, apply 2-3 coats of the lighter green mix to the frog in the front of the middle frog. Avoid getting any green on the eyes.
Add some more of the SC-8 Just Froggy to the palette in a different spot. Add about 6-8 drops of SC-15 Tuxedo, mix well to create a darker green color.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner or a Round Brush, apply 2-3 coats of the darker green color to the frog in the back of the design.
Place a small amount of SC-15 Tuxedo to the palette.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner or a Round Brush, apply 2-3 coats of the SC- 15 Tuxedo the remaining area of the tile. Add a line of SC-15 Tuxedo to each frog creating a mouth line with a CB-106 #6 Script Liner
Using your small finger, pick up some SC-15 Tuxedo and add a dot to the eyes creating the iris on each frog. With the end of the brush handle, add a small dot of SC-16 Cotton Tail to the eyes for a highlight.
Using a pencil eraser, dip into the SC-8 Just Froggy then add dots to the lightest frog. Add dots of the SC-8 Just Froggy SC-16 Cotton Tail mix to the frog in the back and dots of the SC-8 Just Froggy SC-15 Tuxedo mix to the middle frog. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-130 Sea Green or EL-127 Rose Granite, apply 2 coats to the outside of the tumbler. Apply 3 coats to the inside. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-101 Oyster Shell, apply 2 coats to the outside. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Line with PC-601 Clear Cascade, apply a ½” band going around the outer, top.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Knit Mug
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-3 Wine About It, apply 1 coat over the knitted areas on the mug. Allow glaze to dry. Wipe most of the glaze off with a damp sponge, leaving it only in the crevices.
Using the Script Liner with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, SC-3 Wine About It, SC-13 Grapel and SC-89 Cutie Pie Coral, apply 2 coats to each of the corresponding “stiches” in the patten. Refer to the pattern below. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, apply 2 coats to the border “stitches”. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-3 Wine About It, apply 3 coats to handle and areas above and below the stitching. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, apply 2 coats to the inside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Dip into NT-CLR Clear One Dipping glaze.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Meadow Mug
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-10 Teal Next Time, apply 1 coat over the flowers. Allow glaze to dry. Wipe most of the glaze off with a damp sponge, leaving it only in the crevices.
On the DSS-0113 Bugs screen, locate the small butterflies. Draw an outline around them in permanent marker. Cut them out with excess screen around the edges.
Squeeze around 1 TBS of SC-10 Teal Next Time onto the palette. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or glaze.
Place one butterfly on the outside of the mug (shiny-side down). While holding the screen firmly in place, take a small amount of premixed silkscreen medium, and gently rub in circles starting in the center and working outward. Repeat going around mug with the different butterflies.
Using the Script Line with SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-9 Jaded, SC-13 Grapel, SC-89 Cutie Pie Coral and SC-97 Cant-elope apply 2 coats to the flowers and butterflies. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, apply 2 coats to the inside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-203 Dry Champagne, apply 3 coats to the outside of the mug and 1 coat to the inside. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with PC-601 Clear Cascade, apply 1 coat over the flowers on the Meadow Mug. Once the glaze is dry, use a damp sponge to remove most of the glaze, leaving it only in the crevices.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-130 Sea Green, apply 2 coats to the outside of each piece. Apply 3 coats to the inside. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-101 Oyster Shell, apply 2 coats to the outside of each piece. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Line with PC-601 Clear Cascade, apply a ½” band going around the outer, top of each piece.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-118 Blue Grotto, apply 2 coats to the outside and bottom of each piece. Apply 3 coats to the inside. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-101 Oyster Shell, apply 2 coats to the outside of each piece (do not coat the bottom with EL-101 Oyster Shell). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with PC-601 Clear Cascade, apply a ½” band going around the outer, top of each piece.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze out around 1 TBS of SC-9 Jaded and SC-43 Lettuce Alone onto the palette.
Dip the Soft Fan into SC-9 Jaded and apply 1 coat to the bottom half of the tumbler. While the glaze is still wet, dip the same brush into SC-43 Lettuce Alone and blend up to the top of the tumbler. Allow glaze to dry.
Use a damp sponge to wipe away most of the glaze, leaving it only in the crevices.
Pour out around 2 TBS of FN-216 Sea Glass and FN-221 Milk Glass White onto the palette.
Dip the Soft Fan into FN-216 Sea Glass and apply 1 coat to the bottom half of the tumbler. While the glaze is still wet, dip the same brush into FN-221 Milk Glass White and blend up to the top of the tumbler. Repeat for a total of 3 coats. Allow glaze to dry between each coat.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-221 Milk Glass White, apply 3 coats to the inside of the tumbler. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-12 Moody Blue, apply 1 coat over the flowers. Allow glaze to dry.
Use a damp sponge to wipe away most of the glaze, leaving it only in the divots.
Pour out around 2 TBS of FN-211 Sheer Blue, FN-212 Blue Diamond, and FN-221 Milk Glass White onto the palette.
Dip the Soft Fan into FN-211 Sheer Blue and apply 1 coat to the bottom third of the mug. While the glaze is still wet, dip the same brush into FN-212 Blue Diamond and blend up to the middle third of the mug. While the glaze is still wet, dip the same brush into FN-221 Milk Glass White and blend up to the top of the mug. Repeat for a total of 3 coats. Allow glaze to dry between each coat.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-221 Milk Glass White, apply 3 coats to the inside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with SC-11 Blue Yonder, SC-12 Moody Blue and SC-45 My Blue Heaven, apply 2 coats to each of the “stitches” in the pattern. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Refer to the pattern below for color placement.
Using the Script Liner with SC-12 Moody Blue, apply 2 coats to the “border” stitches around the top, bottom and 2 sides. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-212 Blue Diamond, apply 1 coat to the outside of the mug.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-211 Sheer Blue, apply 2 coats to the outside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-221 Milk Glass White, apply 3 coats to the inside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with SP-211 Speckled Blue Yonder, SP-212 Speckled Moody Blue and SP-231 Speckled The Blues, apply 2 coats to each of “scoops” on the mug. Alternate between colors so that the same color is not next to itself. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Take MC-002 12mm Low Tack Masking Tape and wrap it around the foot of the mug to separate the foot from the body.
Using the Script Liner with FN-212 Blue Diamond, apply 3 coats to the outside of the mug. Do not glaze to foot or bottom. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Remove the tape before the glaze is bone dry.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-221 Milk Glass White, apply 3 coats to the foot, bottom and inside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with SC-7 Leapin’ Lizard, apply 2 coats to the outer portion each arch. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-77 Glo-Worm, apply 2 coats to the inner portion of each arch. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Take MC-002 12mm Low Tack Masking Tape and wrap it around the foot of the tumbler to separate the foot from the body.
Using the Script Liner with FN-216 Sea Glass, apply 3 coats to the outside of the tumbler. Do not glaze foot or bottom. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Remove the tape before the glaze is bone dry.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-221 Milk Glass White, apply 3 coats to the foot, bottom and inside of the tumbler. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with SC-28 Blue Isle, apply 2 coats to the bottom side of the facets. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-9 Jaded, apply 2 coats to the side facing facets. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Leave the tops of the facets unglazed.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-214 Pastel Jade, apply 3 coats to the outside of the tumbler. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-221 Milk Glass White, apply 3 coats to the inside of the tumbler. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired bisque Cone 04 Jolly Tree.
Basecoat with SS-45 Buttermilk 2 coats over the entire tree.
Trace on bee hive (I used tissue paper trace design of hive with pencil then place tissue paper on tree and retrace with sharpie extra fine marker)
Using a sponge lightly pounce around the hive with SS-234 Medium Mocha (see picture for placement). Then apply 3 coats of SS-3 Honey Toast to hive let dry.
Using a shader brush corner load with SS-234 Medium Mocha shade around each section of the hive. Then highlight with SS-135 White on upper section of each row.
Then using a sponge pounce on SS-276 Forest Green around bottom of hive then sponge on SS-57 Accent Green on top leaving some of the Forest Green show through.
Using a stylus, dot on flowers 4 – 5 petals per flower using colors of choice. (Colors used on my tree SS-32Razzberri, SS-28 Hushed Violet, OS483 Real Red, SS-135 White, SS-111 Brightest Yellow) outline in SS-138 Flat Black.
Trace on bees and door on hive using the method from step 3.
Fill in bee bodies with SS-111 Brightest Yellow (will take at least 2 coats)
Fill in wings with SS135 White (will take at least 2 coats)
Shade around the wings with mixture of SS-317 Turquoise and SS-135 White (half and half)
Fill in the door with SS-138 Flat Black.
Put stripes on bees with SS-138 Flat Black.
Using shader brush corner load with SS-111 Brightest Yellow and shade around each wave on tree.
When dry, using the Liner Brush and SS-138 Flat Black make flight dashes on the waves and behind the bees.
Taking the Medium Twist ceramic Christmas tree lights (gold) and Medium Flower ceramic Christmas tree lights (gold) paint the tops of each with 2 coats of SS-111 Bright Yellow. When dry, paint black stripes on the medium twist lights and using SS-234 Medium Mocha paint the center of the flower. Let dry.
Bee
Basecoat body of bee with SS-111 Brightest Yellow, wings are base coated with turquoise and white mixture. When dry apply stripes to bee body and drybrush wings with SS-135 White.
Clean the greenware in the usual manner. Bisque fire to cone 04.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Thin some IN1003 Sunflower in a small cup. Pour the glaze into the back opening of the sunflower. Roll the glaze around and drain out any excess glaze.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of IN-1673 Espresso to the flower center and to the rib around the center.
Using a damp sponge, wipe back the glaze leaving it in the deep crevices. Allow to dry!
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of IN-1673 Espresso to the flower center and a second coat to the very center. Do not apply any of this glaze to the outer rib area of the center. Allow to dry!
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of IN-1781 Pumpkin Orange to all flower petals on the top side of the sunflower. Allow to dry!
Using a damp sponge, wipe back the glaze leaving it in the deep crevices. Allow to dry!
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of IN-1003 Sun yellow to the top of the flower petal going over the orange glaze. Allow to dry!
Using a CB106 #6 Script Liner, apply 1-2 coats of IN-1781 Pumpkin Orange to the center outer rib of the flower center.
Using a CB-602 #2 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of IN1781 Pumpkin Orange feathering in the glaze from the outer rib area into the flower. (refer to the color photo)
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of FN-205 to the flower center.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of FN-201 to the top side of each flower petal. Allow to dry!
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN-201 Golden Clear to the back of the Sunflower Bowl. Allow to dry!
Cast the mold in usual manner. If cutting out like shown in photo, you can trace on the pattern, cut out the carrot, then use a small hole tool to cut out the carrot tops.
Allow Greenware to dry. Clean the greenware with a Clean-Up Tool. Bisque fire to cone 04.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a Basecoat Brush, basecoat the Bunny’s Body with 1-2 coats of SS-24 Chocolate Fudge.
Using various size Drybrush’s, drybrush the bunny’s body as follows:
SS-234 Medium Mocha followed by OS467 Light Brown.
Highlight with SS-45 Buttermilk then SS-135 White to the tips of the feet, hands, face area, tail and heavier on the muzzle.
Drybrush the inside of the ears and nose with SS-183 Rich Peach with some SS-45 Buttermilk on the brush blending the color to tone down the SS-183 Rich Peach. Highlight the nose with SS-45 Buttermilk.
Using a Basecoat Brush, basecoat the overalls with OS541 Northern Blue.
Drybrush with SS-335 Rich Blue followed by SS-331 Medium Blue. Highlight with OS456 Baby Blue then some SS-135 White.
Using a Basecoat Brush, basecoat the hat with OS571 Curry.
Drybrush with OS435 Gold then with SS-111 Brightest Yellow.
Basecoat the carrot with SS-24 Chocolate Fudge and the carrot tops with SS-57 Accent Green.
Drybrush the carrot with SS-399 Terra Cotta then SS-210 Orange. Highlight with SS-111 Brightest Yellow.
Drybrush the carrot tops with SS-19 Country Sage then Highlight with SS-111 Brightest Yellow.
Using an Angle Shader, float SS-24 Chocolate Fudge in all the deep crevices of the Bunny’s Body.
Using a CB-202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 2 coats of UM953 Bronze to the overall buttons. Apply SS-210 Orange to the button stitching. Allow to dry!
Apply 2 coats of SS-342C Matte Spray Sealer to piece. Allow to dry!!
Using a CB-202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 2 coats of AC-501 Gloss Brush on Sealer to the buttons. Allow to dry!
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use a soft fan to plop the cascades around the rim of the bowl. Apply about a 1” plop and alternate between the white and clear cascade. Apply a total of 3 coats to each.
Use a fan brush to apply 2 coats of Blue Isle to the outside of the bowl, avoiding the foot. Let dry between coats.
Apply a dot of Blue Isle on top of each plop of cascades.
Use a fan brush to apply 3 coats of Green Tea to the inside of the bowl.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Fire to cone 5/6. (Sample was fired to cone 6)
Alternative color options below
3 coats PC-601 and PC-602 (plops), 3 coats SW-116 Robin’s Egg, 2 coats SC-45 My Blue Heaven (outside of bowl)
3 coats PC-601 and PC-602 (plops), 3 coats SW-146 Aurora Green, 2 coats SC-39 Army Surplus (outside bowl)
3 coats PC-601 and PC-602 (plops), 3 coats SW-169 Frosted Lemon, 2 coats SC-55 Yella Bout It (outside bowl)
3 coats PC-601 and PC-602 (plops), 3 coats SW-170 Blue Hydrangea, 2 coats SC-65 Peri-Twinkle (outside bowl)
Place around 1 TBS of clay into a small bowl or cup. Add around 1 TBS of water and let it sit. Mash up the clay to make slip. You might need to add more water or clay to make it the right consistency. It should have a similar consistency to gravy.
Cut off 3 pieces of clay: 1 large, 1 medium and 1 small. They should correspond to the size ball you would like for your chicks. Take each piece of clay and roll it into a ball. Then take each ball and firmly hit it against the table to make the bottom flat.
Cut off another piece of clay and roll it out with a rolling pin until it is around 1/8” thick. Use the pencil to draw the combs and wings you would like for your chicks (1 comb & 2 wings for each). Cut them out with the X-ACTO knife.
Take the needle tool and score the bottom edge of the combs, as well as the tops of the chicks, where the combs will be located. Add slip to each scored surface. Press the combs onto the tops. Take a small amount of clay and roll it into the smallest coil that you can. Place the coil around the base of each comb and spread it into the joint using the wood modeling tool.
Take the 2 wings and score the backs, as well as the sides of the chicks, where the wings will be located. Add slip to each scored surface. Press the wings onto the chicks. Take a small amount of clay and roll it into the smallest coil that you can. Place the coil around the wing joints. Use the wood modeling tool to smooth it out. You can position the wings however you would like.
Take a small amount of clay and roll it into a small coil, around ¼” diameter. Take the X-ACTO knife and cut off 3 pieces that will become the beaks. After you cut off each beak, roll one end to make a pointed tip. Use the X-ACTO knife to score the flat end. Then score the face, where the beak will be located. Add slip to each scored surface. Press the beaks on the faces. Take a small amount of clay and roll it into the smallest coil that you can. Place the coil around the base of the beak and spread it into the joint using the wood modeling tool. Take the X-ACTO knife and cut down the center of the beak.
Take the needle tool and make 2 dots above each beak for the eyes.
Place small pieces of damp paper towel over the combs, beaks and wings. This will prevent them from drying faster than the bodies and breaking off.
Once the chicks are firm enough to handle, take the loop tool and hollow out the inside of each chick.
Allow chicks to dry.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 2 coats to the body of each chick (do not glaze the bottom). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-74 Hot Tamale, apply 2 coats to the combs of each chick. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, apply 2 coats to the beaks of each chick. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, make a dot in each eye.
Fire to cone 04.
Variations/Adaptations/Tips&Tricks
After step 10, bisque fire to cone 04 and then glaze and fire to cone 6
Using the Round brush, apply 2 slightly thinned coats of EZ-26 Yellow Orange to alternating openings on the pumpkin, then side load and shade with Poppy Orange.
Using the Round brush, apply 2 slightly thinned coats of EZ-58 Poppy Orange to the remaining openings, and side load and shade with EZ-75 Passion Red.
Using the Round brush, apply 2 slightly thinned coats of EZ-18 Chartreuse to the leaf.
Side load the Round brush in EZ-28 Leaf Green and shade the leaf.
Using the Round brush, apply 2 slightly thinned coats of EZ-11 Sienna Brown to the stem, then side load in EZ-10 French Brown and shade the edges and add ridge lines on the stem.
Using the Round brush, apply 2 slightly thinned coats of EZ-32 Peacock Green to the background.
Using the Liner brush, outline and detail with slightly thinned EZ-37 Black.
Using the Soft Fan brush, apply 2 to 3 coats of FN-9 Black to the back of the plate.
Using the Soft Fan brush, apply 2 coats of S-2102 Crystal Clear Brushing to the front.
Using the Soft Fan, apply 2 to 3 coats of White Gloss to the inside of the mug.
Using the Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of Orange Gloss to the top section of the mug.
Using the Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of Yellow Gloss to the lower section of the mug, excluding the foot area and very bottom.
Using the Script Liner, apply 3 coats of Black Gloss to the handle of the mug.
Using the Clay Carbon Paper, trace on the pattern where desired.
Using the Mini Liner loaded in slightly thinned Black Designer Liner, apply 1 coat to the pattern lines.
Using a damp sponge, remove any color that may have gotten onto the foot area of the mug, as Stoneware gets placed directly on a kiln shelf and is not stilted.
Place on a well kiln washed shelf and fire to shelf cone 6.
Apply 2-3 coats of SW-507 Bright Green Gloss over entire plate. Allow to dry between coats.
Using various sizes of sponges on sticks, apply SW-503 Orange Gloss, SW-505 Purple Gloss, SW-506 Bright Blue Gloss and SW-508 Black Gloss over the plate.
Apply 2 coats of SW-508 Black Gloss over entire plate. Allow to dry between coats.
Liberally spray plate with water bottle.
With overloaded fan brushes, randomly drizzle SW-503 Orange Gloss, SW-505 Purple Gloss, SW-506 Bright Blue Gloss and SW-507 Bright Green Gloss over the plate.
Tilt the plate in all directions, causing colors to run.
Before the glaze dries, with the tip of the brush handle, scratch away the colored glazes revealing the black glaze.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the pencil to draw an oval around the inner edge of the platter. It should separate the platter into two sections (red watermelon and green rind).
Squeeze out 1 TBS of SC-73 Candy Apple Red and 1 TBS of SC-27 Sour Apple onto the palette. Add around ½ TBS of water to each glaze and mix. Use the Soft Fan to apply 1 coat of thinned SC-73 Candy Apple Red to the center section of the platter. Use the Soft Fan to apply 1 coat of thinned SC-27 Sour Apple to the outer section of the platter.
Squeeze out ½ TBS of SC-87 Ruby Slippers and ½ TBS of SC-26 Green Thumb onto the palette. Add ½ TBS of SC-16 Cotton Tail to each of the glazes. Mix. Use the Script Liner to apply large dots to each of the corresponding sections (SC-87 Ruby Slippers + SC-16 Cotton Tail = inner, red section, SC-26 Green Thumb + SC-16 Cotton Tail = outer, green section).
Using the Script Liner with SC-87 Ruby Slippers, irregularly outline each of the dots in the inner, red section. They should resemble leopard print. See guide below.
Using the Script Liner with SC-26 Green Thumb, irregularly outline each of the dots in the outer, green section. They should resemble leopard print. See guide below.
Allow glaze to dry. Take the pattern and place it in the center of the platter. Slide AC-220 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern. While holding the pattern in place, trace with the pencil.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 1 coat to the lettering.
Slightly thin SC-15 Tuxedo and use the Script Liner to splatter the color onto the plate.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-36 Irish Luck, apply 3 coats to the rim and back of the platter. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Dip into NT-CLR Clear One Dipping Glaze
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Watermelon Bowl
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the pencil to draw a wavy circle going around the inside, bottom of the bowl. It should separate the bowl into two sections (red watermelon and green rind).
Squeeze out 1 TBS of SC-73 Candy Apple Red and 1 TBS of SC-16 Cotton Tail onto the palette. Mix the glazes together. Use the Soft Fan to apply 1 coat to the bottom section of the bowl. Allow glaze to dry to the touch.
Use the pencil to draw another wavy circle going around the bottom of the bowl, inside the section you just glazed.
Squeeze out 1 TBS of SC-73 Candy Apple Red and ½ TBS of SC-87 Ruby Slippers onto the palette. Mix the glazes together. Use the Script Liner to apply 2 coats to the inside of the new outline. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil to draw another wavy circle going around the bottom of the bowl, inside the section you just glazed. Using the Script Liner with SC-87 Ruby Slippers, apply 3 coats to that section. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out 1 TBS of SC-27 Sour Apple and 1 TBS of SC-16 Cotton Tail onto the palette. Mix the glazes together. Use the Soft Fan to apply 1 coat to the top section of the bowl. Allow glaze to dry to the touch.
Use the pencil to draw another wavy circle going around the top half of the bowl, closer to the red section.
Squeeze out 1 TBS SC-27 Sour Apple and ½ TBS of SC-26 Green Thumb onto the palette. Mix the glazes together. Use the Script Liner to apply 2 coats above the new outline. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil to draw another wavy circle going around the top of the bowl. It should divide the remaining portion of the upper bowl. Using the Script Liner with SC-26 Green Thumb, apply 3 coats to that upper section. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Slightly thin SC-15 Tuxedo and use the Script Liner to splatter the color onto the plate.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-36 Irish Luck, apply 3 coats to the rim and back of the bowl. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a pencil, make 4 round marks equally distant from each other right underneath the ledge of the pie plate, and three in the bottom of the plate in the shape of a triangle.
Using the drill with the carbide bit, drill out the holes.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 3 coats of SW-119 Cinnabar to the outside of the pie plate and the entire inside, leaving the bottom of the plate unglazed. Use a damp sponge to wipe off any glaze that may have gotten onto the bottom. Let dry completely.
Using the pencil, divide the rim of the plate into 24 equal sections. Start by dividing it into 4 quarters, divide those in 2, and divide each resulting section into two again.
Run a piece of MC-001 ¼” masking tape on each mark that extends down the inside of the plate to where the side meets the bottom, and on the outside of the plate to where the notches begin.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 3 coats of SW-169 Frosted Lemon to every fourth section that is taped off. Repeat with the SW-168 Coral Sands, SW-166 Norse Blue, and SW-167 Sand and Sea. Each color should be on 6 total sections.
Wait a few minutes until the glaze isn’t shiny and wet, then remove the tape.
Do not stilt or hang over the edge of the kiln shelf.
Fire to cone 5/6.
1Cut two pieces of hanging wire approximately 28” long. Thread one end into one of the 4 holes underneath the plate rim and twist it around the rest of the wire to secure it. Thread the other end into the opposite hole and do the same. Repeat for the other piece of wire.
Wrap small pieces of duct tape around the wrapped ends to prevent fraying.
Fill the feeder with bird seed and hang using both wires. The holes in the bottom will prevent rain from accumulating.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 3 coats of SW-510 Blue Gloss to the back sides of the platter and on the front rim, leaving the foot and the bottom unglazed. Use a damp sponge to wipe any glaze off the foot that may have gotten on it.
Using a pencil and the clay carbon paper, trace the pattern onto the platter.
Add some SW-508 Black Gloss to one of the AC-222 Medium Writer Tip Kits. Use it to go over the lines from the pattern.
Using the CB-404 #4 Pointed Round brush, apply 2 coats of each glaze to the dogs, surfboard, and sun, using the pattern as a reference. Use a CB-210 #10/0 Detail Liner to get into any tight spaces. Let dry.
Precondition the CB-404 #4 Pointed Round brush with dish soap. Apply wax resist to the dogs, surfboard and sun. Be careful not to get wax outside the lines onto the unglazed portion of the platter. Rinse the wax off of the brush and clean well with more dish soap.
Precondition the CB-210 #10/0 Detail Liner with dish soap. Apply wax resist to the ‘DAYS OF SUMMER’. Be careful not to go outside the lines. If preferred, you can use an AC-222 writer tip kit filled with wax resist to do this part. Let dry.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 3 coats of SW-172 Macadamia to the top 2/3 of the platter.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 3 coats of SW-166 Norse Blue to the bottom 2/3 of the platter. The middle third should be 3 coats of Macadamia under 3 coats of Norse Blue.
Do not stilt or hang over the edge of the kiln shelf.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the drill with the carbide bit, drill a hole in the bottom of the bowl for drainage.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 3 coats of SW-189 Cenote to the inside of the bowl.
Using a pencil and the clay carbon paper, trace the pattern onto the bowl. You can skip the cheeks for now.
Add some SW-508 Black Gloss to one of the AC-222 Medium Writer Tip Kits. Use it to trace the facial features and to fill in the eyebrows and pupils.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 3 coats of SW-172 Macadamia to the rest of the outside of the bowl. Use a smaller brush to get into any tight spaces.
Using the CB-404 #4 Pointed Round Brush, apply 2 coats of SW-506 Bright Blue Gloss to the irises of the eyes.
Using the CB-404 #4 Pointed Round Brush, apply 2 coats of SW-504 Red Gloss to the lips.
Use the pencil to draw the circles for the cheeks. Using the CB-404 #4 Pointed Round Brush, apply 2 coats of SW-251 Pink Opal to the circles.
Add some SW-501 White Gloss to the other AC-222 Writer Tip Kit. Use it to fill in the whites of the eyes and add highlights to the pupils, irises and lips.
Dip the back end of a brush into SW-122 Maycoshino and dab it onto the cheeks, nose and forehead to make freckles.
Do not stilt or hang over the edge of the kiln shelf.
After removing the Mushroom from the mold. In the leather stage of the Mushroom, trace on the patterns being careful not to smash the Mushroom. Using the X Eacto Knife, cut out the opening for the door and windows. Using the Sgrafito Tool, carve the outline of the door and windows then scratch in a wood texture to each.
Pour some slip on the flat side of a mold to create a small slab of clay. Using the Kemper Tools – PCSA – Pattern Cutter Set, Flower shape cutter. Cut out 9 flowers and attach to the Mushroom top. Roll some balls of clay to create the flower centers and attach to the flower center with some slip. Cleanup any excess slip with a damp brush. Or you can use Cone 04 Low Fire Clay to press the flowers and centers out of the clay.
Using the pattern, cut out an oval shape for the sign above the door and attach with slip.
Using the round Cutter press into the Mushroom Top creating plain circles.
Allow Greenware to dry! Clean the greenware with a Clean-Up Tool. Bisque fire to cone 04.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC-16 Cotton Tail to the flower petals and the pressed circles. Apply 3 coats of SC-24 Dandelion up to the daisy centers. Shade the flower centers with SC-97 Cant-elope. Allow to dry!
Using the Portable Reinforcements – Staples item #636156 (hole protectors) apply one to each of the circles. Make sure all edges a press down firmly.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner and a CB-602 #2 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SC-74 Hot Tamale to the mushroom top going around the flower petals and over the circles.
Using a CB-602 #2 Soft Fan, drybrush some SC-48 Camel Back the edge of the Mushroom over the SC-74 Hot Tamale. Remove the Portable Reinforcements – Staples item #636156 (hole protectors) before the glaze dries.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 1 coat of SC-34 Down To Earth to the door and windows trim. Allow to dry! With a damp sponge wipe back the SC-34 Down to Earth from the door and windows leaving the color in the crevices. Allow to dry!
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SC-25 Crackerjack Brown to the door and window trim. Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SC-11 Blue Yonder to the door.
Using a CB-602 #2 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SC-54 Vanilla Dip to the under portion of the Mushroom Top and the sign. Shade the under portion of the Mushroom top and the sign with SC-48 Camel Back.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner and a CB-602 #2 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SP254 Speckled Vanilla Dip to the Mushroom stem and inside the Toad House.
Using AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper, trace on the words to the sign.
Using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, apply DSS-401 Black to the words.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, drybrush some SC-27 Sour Apple around the bottom of the Mushroom to create grass. Without cleaning the Brush, pick up some SC-8 Just Froggy and go over the SC-27 Sour Apple to give a two tone grass look.
Using a CB-604-4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing Glaze to the outside of the Mushroom. Allow to dry!
Cast the molds in usual manner. After removing the Mushroom from the mold, pour some slip on a mold with a flat surface. While still wet set the Mushroom onto the wet slip and allow to set up. When Mushroom can be removed from the mold trim the excess slip around the edge of the Mushroom. This will create a solid bottom to the piece. Using a small piece o the trimming, roll a small ball to create a door knob.
In the leather stage of the Mushroom, trace on the patterns being careful not to smash the Mushroom. Using the X Eacto Knife, cut out the opening for the Bird House (Do Not Cut out the windows). Using the Sgraffito Tool, carve the outline of the door and windows then scratch in a wood texture to each.
Using the CD778 Flowers and Leaf Press Tool mold, using Cone 04 Low Fire Slip, cast 3 large leaves, 2 small leaves, 3 large daisy and 3 half daisy flowers. Or you can use Cone 04 Low Fire Clay to press the flowers and leaves out of the mold.
Attach the Flowers & Leaves by scoring each piece and the area on the Mushroom they will go. One at a time, apply some slip to the back of the flower & leaves then attach to the Mushroom top. Clean up any slip that has oozed from under with a damp brush. Attach the door knob.
Allow Greenware to dry! Clean the greenware with a Clean-Up Tool. Bisque fire to cone 04.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Thin some S-2101 Crystal Clear Bushing Glaze in a small cup to the consistency of coffee cream. Pour the clear glaze inside the Mushroom and gently roll the glaze around to coat the inside surface, Drain all excess glaze. Allow to dry!
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC-16 Cotton Tail to the daisy petals and 3 coats of SC-42 Butter Me up to the daisy centers. Shade the flower centers with SC-97 Cant-elope.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC-27 Sour Apple to all the leaves. Shade the leaves with SC-8 Just Froggy on the outer edges of the leaves. Using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, add the vein lines to the leaves with SC-8 Just Froggy.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 1 coat of SC-34 Down To Earth to the door and windows trim. Allow to dry! With a damp sponge wipe back the SC-34 Down to Earth from the door and windows leaving the color in the crevices. Allow to dry!
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SC-25 Crackerjack Brown to the door and window trim. Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SC-88 Tu Tu Tango to the door.
Using a CB-202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 2-3 coats of SC-15 Tuxedo to the window centers and to the door knob.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC-24 Dandelion to the Mushroom stem and under the Mushroom top. Shade the crevices under the Mushroom top with SC-88 Tu Tu Tango.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner and a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SP-288 Speckled TuTu Tango to the mushroom top being carful going around the flowers and leaves.
Using a Sponge, sponge the very top and the edge of the Mushroom top with 2 coats of SC-24 Dandelion to give a slight highlight.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, drybrush some SC-27 Sour Apple around the bottom of the Mushroom to create grass. Without cleaning the Brush, pick up some SC-8 Just Froggy and go over the SC-27 Sour Apple to give a two tone grass look.
Using a CB-604-4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coat of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing Glaze to the outside of the Mushroom. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
If you do not want to draw your own face, place the pattern over the front of the plate. Slide AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper between the pattern and plate. Trace the pattern with the pencil. Skip to step #7
If you want to draw your own face, take the pencil and draw a profile of a face going down the center of the plate.
On the left side, use the pencil to draw an eyebrow, eye, nostril and mouth as if the person is awake.
On the right side, use the pencil to draw an eyebrow, eye and mouth as if the person is asleep.
Use the pencil to add decorative shapes to both sides of the face.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 2 coats to the left side of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-11 Blue Yonder, apply 2 coats to the right side of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-27 Sour Apple, SC-74 Hot Tamale and SC-75 Orange-A-Peel apply 2 coats to the features on the left side of the face (awake side = energizing colors). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-12 Moody Blue, SC-45 My Blue Heaven and SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue, apply 2 coats to the features on the right side of the face (asleep side = calming colors). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the details on the face and add any decorative lines and/or dots.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
If you do not want to draw your own face, place the pattern over the front of the plate. Slide AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper between the pattern and plate. Trace the pattern with the pencil. Skip to step #7
If you want to draw your own face, take the pencil and draw a profile of a face going down the center of the plate.
On the left side, use the pencil to draw an eyebrow, eye, nostril and mouth as if the person is awake.
On the right side, use the pencil to draw an eyebrow, eye and mouth as if the person is asleep.
Use the pencil to add decorative shapes to both sides of the face.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 2 coats to the left side of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-11 Blue Yonder, apply 2 coats to the right side of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-27 Sour Apple, SC-74 Hot Tamale and SC-75 Orange-A-Peel apply 2 coats to the features on the left side of the face (awake side = energizing colors). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-12 Moody Blue, SC-45 My Blue Heaven and SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue, apply 2 coats to the features on the right side of the face (asleep side = calming colors). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the details on the face and add any decorative lines and/or dots.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
If you do not want to draw your own shapes, place the pattern over the front of the plate. Slide AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper between the pattern and plate. Trace the pattern with the pencil. Skip to step #4.
If you want to draw your own shapes, use your pencil to draw one large circle (around 4.5” diameter) on the upper center of the plate. Draw 3 smaller circles (around 1.5” diameter) around the larger circle. Draw a wave-like scroll at the bottom of the plate.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 2 coats to the large circle. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 1 coat to the small circles and scroll.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue, apply 2 coats to the background. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
The following steps will use a Q-Tip to make the design. You will dip the Q-Tip into the glaze and make a short, quick motion to add a heavy, short line of color. This will mimic Van Gogh’s brush strokes.
Squeeze around 1 TSP of SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-77 Glo-Worm and SC-97 Cant-elope on to the palette. Place 1 Q-Tip in each of the glazes. Use the Q-Tips with SC-6 Sunkissed and SC-97 Cant-elope to make a crescent moon in the large circle. Use the Q-Tip with SC-77 Glo-Worm to add color on the large circle and in the crescent moon.
Squeeze around 1 TBS of SC-12 Moody Blue, SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue and SC-11 Blue Yonder. Place 1 Q-Tip in each of the glazes. Go back and forth between colors to make the background. Try to go in a circular direction around the circles, then extend into the shared space.
Squeeze around 1 TSP of SC-16 Cotton Tail onto the palette. You will also be using the colors from Step #9. Go back and forth between these colors to make the wave-like scroll. Use SC-16 Cotton Tail to really highlight the scroll. Try to follow the scroll shape when making your lines of color.
Use the SC-97 Cant-elope Q-Tip to make a large dot in the center of each of the small circles. Then use the Q-Tips with SC-11 Blue Yonder, SC-16 Cotton Tail, SC-77 Glo-Worm and SC-97 Cant-elope to make lines on the small circles. Try to follow the circular shape and extend out into the background. Use those colors to extend the edge of the large circle into the background.
Draw the “mountains” on the bottom of the plate with the pencil, or cut out the pattern and trace.
Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo apply 2 coats to the “mountains”. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Mix the SG-401 Black Designer Liner with a small amount of Silkscreen Medium until it is the constancy of thin peanut butter.
Using a variety of the leaves, hold the silkscreen shinny side down and rub the designer liner mixture over the silkscreen with your finger, then remove the screen. Continue until the background is complete.
Remove the tape, and add a larger leaf to the center square.
Using the Round, apply 1 slightly thinned coat of the EZ stroke colors as desired, using the Poppy Orange and Passion Red for accenting the tips of the leaf. Most of the leaves use all 3 greens, from lighter in the center to darker to the outside edges.
Using the Designer Liner and metal tip, add the border to the square.
Using the Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of Transparent Matte to the entire plate. Be careful when applying over the silkscreen areas, as excessive brushing can cause the designer liner to soften and smear.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry to the touch, but not bone dry.
Place pattern #1 over the plate and trace the 3 “dashed line” monstera leaves with the pencil. Check to make sure you are pressing hard enough to see a line. Remove the pattern.
Cut out the 3 monstera leaves from pattern #2. Place each leaf over the 3 leaves traced on the plate. They should each match up with one of the traced leaves (small, medium and large).
Dip the Soft Fan in water. Lift up each leaf, one at a time, and brush water under the leaf. Place the leaf back down and press with a damp sponge. Make sure to press the edges down.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 1 coat around the edges of the 3 leaves to keep them securely in place. Allow glaze to dry to the touch.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-002 Yellow, apply 2 coats over the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Remove the paper monstera leaves before the glaze is bone dry.
Place pattern #1 back over the plate. Try to line up the pattern with the 3 monstera leaves on the plate. Trace with the pencil. Check to make sure you are pressing hard enough to see a line.
Using the Script Liner with FN-043 Bright Jade, apply 2 coats to the two rounded-looking fern leaves. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with FN-0007 Green, apply 2 coats to the 3 pointed-looking fern leaves. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with FN-052 Tangerine, apply 2 coats to the 2 monstera leaves. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Pour around 1 TSP of FN-001 White onto the palette. Dip the pencil eraser into the glaze and press onto the background. Repeat until you have the desired amount of dots.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-002 Yellow, apply 2 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry to the touch, but not bone dry.
Place pattern #1 over the plate and trace the 3 “dashed line” monstera leaves with the pencil. Check to make sure you are pressing hard enough to see a line. Remove the pattern.
Cut out the 3 monstera leaves from pattern #2. Place each leaf over the 3 leaves traced on the plate. They should each match up with one of the traced leaves (small, medium and large).
Dip the Soft Fan in water. Lift up each leaf, one at a time, and brush water under the leaf. Place the leaf back down and press with a damp sponge. Make sure to press the edges down.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 1 coat around the edges of the 3 leaves to keep them securely in place. Allow glaze to dry to the touch.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-032 Canton Jade, apply 2 coats over the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Remove the paper monstera leaves before the glaze is bone dry.
Place pattern #1 back over the plate. Try to line up the pattern with the 3 monstera leaves on the plate. Trace with the pencil. Check to make sure you are pressing hard enough to see a line.
Using the Script Liner with FN-041 Medium Blue, apply 2 coats to the two rounded-looking fern leaves. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with FN-0007 Green, apply 2 coats to the 3 pointed-looking fern leaves. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with FN-042 Teal Blue, apply 2 coats to the 2 monstera leaves. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Pour around 1 TSP of FN-001 White onto the palette. Dip the pencil eraser into the glaze and press onto the background. Repeat until you have the desired amount of dots.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-032 Canton Jade, apply 2 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Tear off a piece of plastic wrap. It should be around 12” long. Make sure it is enough to completely cover the bunny.
Place the plastic wrap flat on the table. Take SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, SC-45 My Blue Heaven, SC-55 Yella Bout It and SC-85 Orkid and squirt random lines on the plastic wrap. Cover about half of the entire area.
Fold the plastic wrap in half. Use your fingers to spread out the glaze so that there are no bare spots.
Carefully unfold the plastic wrap and place it (glaze side down) over the top of the bunny. Press all areas of the bunny. Remove the plastic wrap. If there are any bare areas on the bunny, use any leftover glaze that is still on the plastic wrap, then discard.
If you have areas of dripping glaze, tear off a small piece of plastic wrap and press onto the area. This will spread out the glaze.
Dip into NT-CLR Clear Dipping Glaze.
Fire to cone 06.
Polka Dot Bunny
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-55 Yella Bout It, apply 2 coats to the entire bunny. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze out around 1 TSP of SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, SC-45 My Blue Heaven and SC-85 Orkid onto the palette. Take the pencil eraser and dip it into one of the glazes, then press onto the bunny. Repeat until you have the desired number of dots for all glazes.
Dip into NT-CLR Clear Dipping Glaze.
Fire to cone 06.
Ombre Crystal Bunny:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze out around 1 TBS of SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, SC-55 Yella Bout It and SC-45 My Blue Heaven onto the palette.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, apply 1 coat going around the bottom 1/3 of the bunny.
While the glaze is still wet, dip the same brush into SC-55 Yella Bout It and blend up to the center of the bunny.
While the glaze is still wet, dip the same brush into SC-45 My Blue Heaven and blend up to the top of the bunny.
Mix and shake CG-998 Pink Pixie. Pour out around 1 TBS onto the palette. You will be using this instead of SC-1 Pink-A-Boo for the next steps.
Using the Soft Fan with CG-998 Pink Pixie, apply 1 coat going around the bottom 1/3 of the bunny. Repeat Step #4 & Step #5.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-127 Rose Granite, EL-128 Wheat, EL-130 Sea Green, and EL-151 Deep Water, apply 2 coats to each bunny. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with CG-998 Pink Pixie, apply 2 coats to each bunny. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper over the front of the canvas. Place pattern on top and trace with a pencil.
Determine the images that you will be using on DSS-0166 Tropical Leaves screen. On the shiny side, rub over each selected image with a dry erase marker, then wipe off the excess color. Cut out each leaf with the scissors, leaving as much screen around each leaf as possible.
Squeeze about 1 TBS of SC-35 Gray Hare onto the palette. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or glaze.
Place a leaf on the canvas, shiny side down. While holding the screen firmly in place, take a small amount of premixed silkscreen medium, and gently rub in circles starting in the center and working outward. Repeat until your canvas is covered in leaves.
Using the Script Liner with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, SC-9 Jaded, SC-35 Gray Hare, SC-51 Boo Bear and SC-65 Peri-Twinkle, apply 2 coats to the corresponding sections of the canvas. If shapes overlap, complete the bottom shape before starting the top shape. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Refer to the pattern for color placement.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, add decorative lines and dots.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the edges of the canvas. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use a moistened BT-910 Synthetic Sponge to wipe down the ware to remove any dust.
Use CB-604 Soft Fan to apply 2-3 Coats of FN-001 to the entire surface. Let dry.
Transfer the design onto the ware using AC-230 Clay Carbon and a Pencil.
Optional step: If you have the small foam stickers you can apply them to the stars in the pattern to act as a stencil. Make sure the edges are firmly adhered to the surface.
Apply 3 coats of SC-74 Hot Tamale using CB-404 or CB-406 Pointed Round to the second, fourth and sixth stripes.
Using CB-404 and CB-406 Pointed Rounds to apply 3 coats of SC-12 Moody Blue to the background field around the stars. If you didn’t use the sticker, be careful applying the color around the stars.
Optional step: After you have applied the last coat of Moody Blue to the background field and the color hasn’t completely dried but is still damp, carefully remove the star stickers. Let dry.
Using CB-604 to apply 1 thin coat of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing to the entire plate.
Using a moistened BT-910 Synthetic Sponge to wipe down the Cone 04 Bisque Vase. Check the inside for any debris.
In a Plastic Cup mix FN-009 Black with some water to a melted ice cream consistency. Pour the thinned glaze into the vase. While working quickly, rotate the vase to coat the inside with glaze. Pour out excess glaze and invert to dry. Let dry.
Using a Pencil and AC-230 to transfer the design onto the vase using the Blue Masking Tape to secure the pattern to the vase. Use Scissors to cut the pattern to accommodate the shape of the vase if necessary.
Shake FD-254 Black Licorice. Outline the pattern with FD-254 Black Licorice. It is best to not drag the tip on the bisque surface. Try to keep the tip of the bottle just above the surface while applying the color. If you drag the tip along the bisque, you run the risk of sanding down the tip of the bottle, clogging the tip and creating a split bead to the outlining.
Apply 2-3 coats of the following colors to the noted areas using a brush sized for the area.
SC-10 Teal Next Time; Large branches/stems.
SC-23 Jack O’Lantern; Three top berries.
SC-24 Dandelion; Bird Beak, marking in wing, centers on small sized flowers.
SC-33 Fruit of the Vine; Medium sized flower petals.
SC-50 Orange Ya Happy; Daisy centers, two back (shadowed) berries.
SC-53 Purple Haze; Small flower petals.
SC-97 Cant-elope; Medium flower centers.
S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing; Daisy petals, top portion of small leaves around small flowers.
S-2711 Tahiti Grape; One coat with crystals to bird excluding wing marking.
CG-717 Pistachio; One coat over top clear glazed portion on small leaves, two coats to bottom portions of small leaves.
CG-716 Pagoda Green; Top half of large leaves around branches fading out over lower half of leaf.
CG-780 Mystic Jade; Bottom portion of large leaves around branches overlapping slightly the CG-716 in leaves.
S-212 Blue Diamond; Over S-2711 portion of the bird.
EL-125 Sahara Sands; Apply 2 medium coats to background around pattern and back of vase.
Stilt and Fire to Shelf Cone 06 with a 5 to10 minute hold.
To the well cleaned greenware, use BT-910 Synthetic Sponge to wipe down the ware to remove any dust.
Apply 3 coats of UG-57 Spice Brown using CB-604 Soft Fan to the top and bottom portions of the pedestal trim. Let dry.
Using a Pencil to divide the top and bottom portions into four parts. Sketch in some lines to mimic the wood grain texture and four ¼” circles to each section near the dividing lines. When creating the wood grain texture, vary the line and width of the lines to better simulate the wood grain. You can create some “knots” in the wood grain too.
Shade on each side of the dividing lines using CB-406 Pointed Round tipped in UG-213 Cinnamon two times. Shade the outside edges of the ¼” circles.
Paint in the lines of the wood grain using AB-704 Round and CB-110 Liner loaded with two coats of UG-31 Chocolate. The lines do not need to be even. They are best when painted with irregular and varying widths of lines. When painting the second coat of Chocolate, its better if you aren’t exact as the overlaps will be darker after firing giving the appearance of subtle shading to the lines. Outline the ¼” circles with 2 coats of Chocolate.
On a tile, place some SG-404 Blue Designer Liner. Sprinkle on some AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Use a Pallet Knife to mix the color and Medium. Keep adding and mixing Silkscreen Medium until you get the texture of peanut butter. Make sure the color is well mixed.
Use the different shell shapes from the two Silkscreens to create and evenly spaced pattern. It is best if you cut out the individual screens for ease of use. (Note: You can use an Erasable Marker on the shiny side of the Silkscreens to amplify the image for ease of use and wiping off excess color with a paper towel.) Place and hold down the Silkscreen with the shiny side next to the ware. Using your index finger to apply the thickened SG-404 Blue to the Silkscreen in a circular motion starting from the center and working towards the outside edge. Lift the Silkscreen immediately after applying the color. Wash the Silkscreen with cool water after use.
Fire the ware to Shelf Cone 04.
Using CB-604 Soft Fan to spatter the middle section of the pedestal with thinned SG-404 Blue Designer Liner and UG-31 Chocolate. Wipe off any errant spots of color from the top and bottom sections of the pedestal.
To the shells, apply two coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing using CB-406 Pointed Round. Try not to get any glaze on the background areas.
Apply 2 coats of EL-103 Sea Spray to the background areas around the seashells in the middle section using a brush sized for the area. Apply a third coat of Sea Spray to the entire middle section including over the seashells.
Apply 3 even coats of C-300 Transparent Matte to the top and bottom sections of the pedestal using CB-604 Soft Fan.
Stilt and Fire the ware to Shelf Cone 05-06 with a 5 to 10minute hold.
Begin with a properly fired terra cotta flower pot. Moisten a sponge and wipe pot to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 3 coats to the outside of the pot. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Choose 1-3 monstera leaves from the pattern, selecting the sizes that will work best with your pot. Cut out each leaf then trace around the patterns onto the pot with the pencil. You can either cut out the holes in the leaves to trace or draw the leaf holes directly onto the pot. NOTE: If your glaze is slightly damp, tracing the pattern can create an indent to follow instead of an outline. If you prefer to trace the pattern on dry glaze, use AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper to trace each leaf.
Use the pencil to draw 5-10 random, circular shapes around the pot. Be sure to have some shapes overlapping.
Using the Script Liner with SC-2 Melon-Choly, SC-20 Cashew Later, and SC-65 Peri-Twinkle, apply 2 coats to desired shapes. Allow glaze to dry between coats and colors (if overlapping).
Using the Script Liner with SC-35 Gray Hare, apply 2 coats to the leaves. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with CG-998 Pink Pixie, apply 2 coats to the desired shapes.
Use FN-254 Black Licorice, make decorative lines, flowers, leaves, or dots on the pot.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use scissors to cut out the partial circle with “shine” on it from the pattern. Place it on the bottom of the plate and trace around the circle with the pencil. Remove the pattern.
Take MC-002 12mm Low Track Masking Tape and place one strip going from the top of the circle to the upper edge of the plate to create sections for each ray. Continue to do this down the left and right sides from the center. You can space the tape evenly or randomly, depending on if you want the rays to be the same or different sizes.
Take MC-002 12mm Low Track Masking Tape and place small pieces going around the edge of the circle. This will make a bottom border for each ray. Or draw a line around the pattern 1/2” higher for the border.
Using the Script Liner with SC-97 Cant-elope, SC-42 Butter Me Up, SC-5 Tiger Tail, and SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, apply 2 coats to each of the rays. Try not to have the same color on consecutive rays. Allow glaze to try between coats. Remove the tape before the glaze is completely dry.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 2 coats to the circle of the sun. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze around 1 TBS of SC-50 Orange Ya Happy, SC-24 Dandelion, SC-25 Crackerjack Brown, and SC-95 Pinkie Swear onto the palette. Use the sharp end of the pencil or end of a paint brush to make small dots on the bottom half of each of the rays. Use the eraser to make larger dots towards the top half of the rays. You can also make a line of dots around the edge of the sun. Below is a chart of the colors as shown.
Base Color
Dot Color
SC-97 Cant-elope
SC-50 Orange Ya Happy
SC-42 Butter Me Up
SC-24 Dandelion
SC-5 Tiger Tail
SC-25 Crackerjack Brown
SC-1 Pink-A-Boo
SC-95 Pinkie Swear
Place the pattern back over the sun. Trace “Shine” with a pencil. Press hard enough so that you can see an indent. If your glaze is bone dry, you can also use AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper to trace the patter. There are also patterns for “Bright” and “Happy”, if you would rather use those words.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the lettering. Add lines, dots or dashes between the rays. Allow glaze to dry to the touch.
Pour out around 2 TBS of FN-203 Dry Champagne and FN-207 Orange Slice onto the palette. Using the Soft Fan with FN-207 Orange Slice, apply 1 coat over the sun, extending outward around 2 inches. Dip the same brush into FN-203 Dry Champagne and blend with the edge. Continue to the top of the plate. Repeat for a second coat.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo or FN-, apply 2 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-101 Oyster Shell, apply 2 coats to the inside of the bowl. Brush the glaze horizontally following the shape of the bowl. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-150 Fern, apply 1 coat to the inside of the bowl over the Oyster Shell. Brush the glaze horizontally, following the shape of the bowl.
Take the three AC-220 Detailer Tips and 1 oz Bottles and cut the ends off of the tips. Fill the first bottle with PC-602 White Cascade. Fill the second bottle with PC-601 Clear Cascade. Fill the third bottle with SC-77 Glo-Worm. Screw the tips back on the bottles.
Use the bottle with PC-602 White Cascade to make a scalloped line going around the inner edge of the bowl. It should be around 1/4 inch down from the edge. The points should be facing up, like below:
Use the bottle with PC-601 Clear Cascade to make a large dot between each of the points on the upper side of the scalloped line. As you make each dot, spread it out into a solid, circle shape. They should be at least 1/4 inch in diameter.
Use the bottle with SC-77 Glo-Worm to make a large dot in the center of each circle from the previous step.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-150 Fern, apply 1 coat to the inside of the bowl. Brush the glaze horizontally around the bowl. After you finish your coat, dip the brush into the glaze and apply thick, horizontal lines of glaze with the side of the brush. Only do that towards the top of the bowl. This will create more color variation.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-101 Oyster Shell, apply 2 coats to the outside of the bowl. Brush the glaze horizontally following the shape of the bowl. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-150 Fern, apply 1 coat to the outside of the bowl, but not the bottom. Brush the glaze horizontally around the bowl. After you finish your coat, dip the brush in the glaze and apply thick, horizontal lines of glaze with the side of the brush. Only do that towards the top of the bowl. This will create more color variation.
Allow glaze to dry.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Form
MB-105 Rice Bowl
Colors
EL-101 Oyster Shell
EL-150 Fern
PC-601 Clear Cascade
PC-602 White Cascade
SC-77 Glo-Worm
Alternative options: EL-151 Deep Water with SC-70 Pink-A-Dot
Alternative options: EL-129 Slate with SC-96 Aqu-ward
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the scissors to cut out the hexagon pattern. Place the pattern onto the center of the plate and trace. Save the pattern.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 3 coats to the hexagon area, extending slightly beyond the edge of the outline.
Once the third coat is dry, wet the paper pattern and place on top of the glazed area. Press the pattern down so that the edges are sealed. Use the sponge to remove glaze that extends outside of the pattern. Gently dab the sponge over the edges of the pattern to make sure they are down.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-048 Bright Pink, apply 3 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Be sure to brush away from the paper so the glaze does not seep underneath.
Remove the hexagon pattern before the last coat of Bright Pink dries.
Squeeze about 2 TBS of SC-16 Cotton Tail onto the palette. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or glaze.
After the plate is dry to the touch, place the screen over the plate, shiny side down.
While holding the screen firmly in place, take a small amount of premixed silkscreen medium, and gently rub in circles starting in the center and working outward. You can also use a squeegee. Remove the screen.
Place the bee pattern in the center of the plate. Trace with a pencil. You should be able to see the outlines in the glaze. If your glaze is bone dry, you can use AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper to trace the pattern.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 1 coat to all of the flowers and leaves.
Using the Script Liner with SC-24 Dandelion, apply 2 coats to the bee. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-45 My Blue Heaven, apply 2 coats to the wings. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-89 Cutie Pie Coral, apply 2 coats to the 2 flowers on the left. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to the flower on the bottom. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-24 Dandelion, apply 2 coats to the flower on the right. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-24 Dandelion and SC-89 Cutie Pie Coral, apply a dot of the center of the flowers.
Using the Script Liner with SC-9 Jaded, apply 2 coats to the leaves. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze around 1 TSP SC-89 Cutie Pie Coral onto the palette. Dip the sponge in the glaze and sponge the palette a few times to remove the excess glaze. Sponge the cheeks on the bee.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the design, add stripes to the bee, and add lines going around the border.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-048 Bright Pink, apply 3 coats to the back of the plate.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
After the glaze is dry, place AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper over the front of the plate. Place the pattern on top and trace with the pencil.
Using the Detail Liner with AC-302 Wax Resist, trace over the pattern on the front of the plate. Make a line going around the rim of the plate.
Using the Script Liner with EL-128 Wheat, apply 2 coats to the top portion of each “drop”. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply a 3rd coat just to the center portion (area ¼” from the edge line).
Using the Script Liner with EL-129 Slate, apply 2 coats to the middle portion of each “drop”. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply a 3rd coat just to the center portion (area ¼” from the edge line).
Using the Script Liner with SC-11 Blue Yonder, apply a drop coat to the bottom portion of each “drop”
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 2-3 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a Basecoat Brush, apply 1 coat of SS-138 Flat Black to the bee. Allow to dry completely.
Shake and stir MM-105 Gold Metallic.
Using a Basecoat Brush, apply 1 coat of MM-105 Gold Metallic to the bee. Allow to dry completely.
Take MM-202 Green Patina and remove cap. Add MM-600 Spritzer Cap to the bottle.
Using a Basecoat Brush, apply a 2nd coat of MM-105 Gold Metallic to the bee.
While paint is still wet, spray with MM-202 Green Patina. Wait an hour or longer.
Once you have the desired amount of patina, use the Basecoat Brush and apply 1 coat of AC-502 Matte Brush-On Sealer to the bee. This will stop the patina process and seal the piece. Allow to dry completely.
Use the pencil to draw a few flowers and leaves on the bee’s belly.
Using a small Acrylic Brush with SS-111 Brightest Yellow, apply 2 coats to the flowers. Allow paint to dry between coats.
11. Using a small Acrylic Brush with SS-376 Limeburst, apply 2 coats to the leaves. Allow paint to dry between coats.
Using a small Acrylic Brush with SS-317 Turquoise, apply a dot to the center of each flower.
Using an Acrylic Detail Brush with SS-138 Flat Black, outline the flowers and leaves.
Using a small Acrylic Brush with AC-501 Gloss Brush-On Sealer, apply 1 coat over the flowers and leaves.
Fox
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a Basecoat Brush, apply 1 coat of SS-138 Flat Black to the fox. Allow to dry completely.
Shake and stir MM-102 Copper Metallic.
Using a Basecoat Brush, apply 1 coat of MM-102 Copper Metallic to the fox. Allow to dry completely. Apply a 2nd coat to the inner ears, muzzle, chest and tip of the tail. Allow to dry completely.
Take MM-202 Green Patina and remove cap. Add MM-600 Spritzer Cap to the bottle.
Using an Acrylic Brush with AC-501 Gloss Brush-On Sealer, apply 1 coat to the inner ears, muzzle, chest and tip of the tail. Allow to dry.
Using an Acrylic Brush with MM-102 Copper Metallic, apply 1 coat to all other areas of the fox.
While paint is still wet, spray with MM-202 Green Patina. Wait an hour or longer.
Use a damp paper towel to wipe off any patina on the inner ears, muzzle, chest and tip of the tail.
Once you have the desired amount of patina, use the Basecoat Brush and apply 1 coat of AC-502 Matte Brush-On Sealer to those areas. This will stop the patina process and seal the piece.
Using a small Acrylic Brush with SS-211 Orange Rust, apply 1 coat to the inside of the ears and make decorative lines on the muzzle, chest and tip of the tail. Allow to dry.
Using a Basecoat Brush with AC-501 Gloss Brush-On Sealer, apply 1 coat to the inside of the ears, muzzle, chest and tip of the tail.
Fish
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a Basecoat Brush, apply 1 coat of SS-138 Flat Black to the fish. Allow to dry completely.
Shake and stir MM-103 Dark Bronze Metallic.
Using a Basecoat Brush, apply 1 coat of MM-103 Dark Bronze Metallic to the fish. Allow to dry completely.
Take MM-202 Green Patina and remove cap. Add MM-600 Spritzer Cap to the bottle.
Squeeze around 1 TBS of MM-103 Dark Bronze Metallic onto the palette. Dip the sponge in the paint and sponge the bottom half of the fish.
While paint is still wet, spray generously with MM-202 Green Patina. Wait an hour or longer.
Once you have the desired amount of patina, use the Basecoat Brush and apply 1 coat of AC-502 Matte Brush-On Sealer. This will stop the patina process and seal the piece.
Using a small Acrylic Brush with SS-317 Turquoise, outline the facets on the fish.
Owl
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a Basecoat Brush, apply 1 coat of SS-138 Flat Black to the owl. Allow to dry completely.
Using an Acrylic Brush, apply 2 coats of SS-183 Rich Peach, SS-179 Antique Red, SS-194 Medium Taupe, SS-198 Chocolate and SS-211 Orange Rust to each facet. Leave a black line between each facet. Try not to have the same color on adjacent facets. Allow to dry completely.
Shake and stir MM-106 Steel Metallic. Squeeze around 1 TBS onto the palette. Use an Acrylic Brush to randomly apply to the owl. Try to concentrate the paint in the crevices and spread out thin over the large areas. Allow to dry completely.
Take MM-305 Rapid Rust and remove cap. Add MM-600 Spritzer Cap to bottle.
Repeat Step #4. While paint is still wet, spray generously with MM-305 Rapid Rust. Wait an hour or longer.
Once you have the desired amount of rust, use the Basecoat Brush and apply 1 coat of AC-502 Matte Brush-On Sealer. This will stop the rusting process and seal the piece.
Pour CD-1495 Garden Pedestal, CD-044 Large Sunflower Bowl and CD-045 Small Sunflower Bowl molds ¼” thick. Refer to casting instructions.
Once they are firm enough to handle, use the sponge to smooth down any casting lines.
Fire to cone 04.
Using the Soft Fan with UG-50 Black, apply 1 coat to the front of the sunflowers and top and bottom sections of the pedestal. Allow glaze to dry. Using a damp sponge, wipe off most of the underglaze, leaving it only in the crevices.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-128 Wheat, apply 2 coats to the leaves on the sunflowers. Brush vertically from bottom to top of each leaf. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with EL-133 Autumn, apply 2 coats to the inner circle of leaves going around the seeds. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply 3-5 random strokes going up on each the large leaves.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-121 Copper Adventurine, apply 3 coats to the center of the sunflowers. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with PC-601 Clear Cascade, apply 1 coat to the tips of the large leaves. Apple a circle in the center of the seeds.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-128 Wheat, apply 2 coats to the back of the sunflowers. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-142 Grass, apply 3 irregular coats to the pedestal. Brush horizontally around the pedestal. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
On the DSS-0111 Botanical – Leaves screen, locate the round leaf. Draw an outline around it in permanent marker. Cut it out with excess screen around the edges.
Squeeze about 2 TBS of SC-15 Tuxedo onto the palette. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or glaze.
Place the leaf on the pedestal, shiny side down. While holding it firmly in place, take a small amount of premixed silkscreen medium and gently rub in circles staring in the center and working outward. Repeat around the pedestal.
Pour CD046 Fairy Plaque mold ¼” thick. Refer to casting instructions.
Once it is firm enough to handle, use the sponge to smooth down casting lines.
Fire to cone 04.
Using the Script Liner with SC-3 Wine About It, apply 1 coat to the dress. Allow glaze to dry. Use a damp sponge to wipe off most of the glaze, leaving it only in the crevices.
Using the Script Liner with SC-25 Crackerjack Brown, apply 1 coat to the hair. Allow glaze to dry. Use a damp sponge to wipe off most of the glaze, leaving it only in the crevices.
Using the Script Liner with SC-29 Blue Grass, apply 1 coat to the wings. Allow glaze to dry. Use a damp sponge to wipe off most of the glaze, leaving it only in the crevices.
Using the Script Liner with SC-46 Rawhide, apply 1 coat to skin (do not glaze eyes). While glaze is still wet, blend SC-51 Poo Bear down to the edges of each section. This will give the skin areas more dimension. Repeat for a 2nd coat.
Squeeze out around 1 TSP of SC-2 Melon-Choly onto the palette. Dip the sponge in the glaze and sponge the palette a couple times to remove any excess glaze. Sponge the cheeks.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-28 Blue Isle, apply 2 coats to the iris of each eye. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Using the same brush with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply a dot to each eye for the pupil. Outline the eyes and add eyelashes.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 1 dot to each eye.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-25 Crackerjack Brown, apply 1 line to each eyebrow. Use the same brush with SC-15 to add individual hairs to the eyebrows.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-3 Wine About It, apply 1 coat to the lips.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, add a line between the lips and dots in the nostrils.
Using the Script Liner with SC-42 Butter Me Up, apple 2 coats to the hair. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Using the same brush with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply a few strokes to the high points of the hair for highlights.
Using the Script Liner with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, apply 2 coats to the dress. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-3 Wine About It, apply 2 coats to the ribbons on the dress. Use the Script Liner to apply 2 coats to the inside of the dress at the bottom. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-65 Peri-Twinkle, apply 2 coats to boots. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-28 Blue Isle, apply 1 coat to the section of the wing closest to the body. Blend with SC-45 My Blue Heaven, until you reach the scallop going down the wing. Do one wing at a time so that the glaze does not dry why you are trying to blend. Repeat for a 2nd coat. Repeat for all wings.
Using the Script Liner with SC-96 Aqu-ward, apply 1 coat to the outer, ribbed section of the wing. As you get close to the edge, dip the brush into SC-9 Jaded and blend out to the edge. Repeat for a 2nd coat. Repeat for all wings.
Using the script Liner with SC-29 Blue Grass, apply 2 coats to the scallops on the wings. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with NT-BR Clear One Brushing, apply 1 coat to the fairy.
Fire to cone 06.
Using CB-425 1/2” Oval Glaze Mop with OG-803 Mother of Pearl, apply 1 coat to the wings.
Cast the mold in the usual manor. Allow the greenware to dry, then clean and wipe down with a damp sponge. Bisque fire to a shelf cone 04.
Using the Rounds, base coat the hair with SS-237 Dark Brown, flesh area with SS-194 Medium Taupe, wings with SS-211 Orange Rust and the dress and shoes with SS-368 Dusty Violet.
Using the Dry Brushes, apply several coats of SS-198 Chocolate to the hair, followed with SS-212 Light Umber.
Using the Dry Brushes, apply several coats of SS-247 Bright Yellow to the section of the wings closest to the body, them the center area with SS-254 Golden Orche followed with SS-210 Orange to the outer wings with a SS-571 Curry highlight.
Using the Dry Brushes, apply several coats of SS-28 Hushed Violet to the dress and shoes, followed with SS-92 Royal Fuchsia for the trim and inner dress area.
Using the Dry Brushes, apply several coats of SS-192 Light Taupe to the flesh areas, followed with SS-127 Light Parchment.
Using the Dry Brushes, apply a very light application of SS-32 Razzberri mixed with SS-127 Medium Portrait to the lips and cheeks.
Using the Liner, apply 1 to 2 coats of SS-135 White to the eyes.
Using the Liner, apply 2 coats of SS-198 Chocolate to the iris of the eyes.
Using the Liner, apply 1 coat of SS-138 Flat Black to the pupils, and outline and add eyelashes to the eyes.
Using the Round, apply 2 coats of AC-502 Matte Sealer to the dress, flesh and hair.
12) Using the Liner, apply 1 coat of AC-501 Gloss sealer to the eyes and lips.
13) Using the Round, apply 1 coat of SG-880 Crystal Brush on Sparklers to the wings.
Cast the mold in the usual manor. Allow the greenware to dry, then clean and wipe down with a damp sponge. Bisque fire to a shelf cone 04.
Using the Rounds, base coat the fur area with SS-138 Flat Black, the carrot with SS-237 Dark Brown, the overalls with SS-335 Rich Blue and the hat with SS-57 Accent Green.
Using the Dry Bushes, apply several light coats of SS-130 Medium Gray to the fur areas.
Using the Dry Brushes, apply several light coats of SS-376 Lime Burst to the hat.
Using the Dry Brushes, apply several light coats of SS-317 Turquoise to the overalls, followed with SS-29 Dew Drop Blue, keeping off the button.
Using the Dry Brushes, apply several coats of SS-211 Orange Rust to the carrot, followed with SS-210 Orange.
Using the Dry Brushes, apply several coats of SS-288 Bright Green to the carrot tops, followed with SS-376 Lime Burst.
Using the Dry Brushes, apply several coats of SS-141 Light Pink to the inside of the ears, followed with SS-31 Razzberri.
Using the Dry Brushes, apply several coats of SS-130 Buttermilk to the muzzle, followed with SS-45 Buttermilk.
Using the Soft Rounds, apply 1 to 2 coats of SS-502 Matte Sealer to the piece, excluding the nose.
Using the Round, apply 1 to 2 coats of SS-501 Gloss Sealer to the nose.
Pour CD-047 Bjorn Bunny Gnome mold ¼” thick. Refer to casting instructions.
Once it is firm enough to handle, use the sponge to smooth down casting lines.
Fire to cone 04.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 1 coat to the top half of the inner ear. Use the same brush with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo to blend down to the bottom of the inner ear. Repeat for a 2nd coat.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 1 coat to the outer edges of the “cheeks” below the nose. Use the same brush with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo to blend towards the center. Repeat for a 2nd coat.
Using the Script Liner with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, apply 2 coats to the nose. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply a highlight to the nose.
Using the Script Liner and Soft Fan with FN-221 Milk Glass White, apply 3 coats to the fur on the bunny. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner and Soft Fan with FN-209 Floral Pink, apply 3 coats to the overalls and 2 coats to the inner ears. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with FN-207 Orange Slice, apply 3 coats to the carrot. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-85 Orkid, apply 2 coats to the buttons. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner and Soft Fan with FN-216 Sea Glass, apply 3 coats to the end of the carrot and hat. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the mouth and add dots to the holes on the cheeks.
Fire to cone 06.
Using CB-425 1/2” Oval Glaze Mop with OG-803 Mother of Pearl, apply 1 coat to the wings.
Paint the entire fish in SC-16 Cotton Tail, three coats. Let dry between coats.
Paint three coats on the fins in contrasting colors, they can match or you can mix up the colors.
Use the liner brush and SC-7 Leapin’ Lizard to paint on the green leaves and vines. Let dry and add a second coat.
Fill in the eyes with three coats of SC-16 Cotton Tail, SC-28 Blue Isle and SC-15 Tuxedo.
Once all the background colors are dry, add accent designs, such as flowers and polka dots.
Let dry and dip and fire to cone 06
Bee:
Paint three coats of SC-20 Cashew Later on the face and arms.
Use the thin liner brush to add details to face – the eyes, and mouth.
Paint each section of the body a different color, three coats. Let dry between coats.
Use the back end of the paintbrush as the thin liner brush to add accents to each section. Make sure to use a contrasting color. For example: (Body)SC-76 Cara-bein Blue, topped with SC-88 TuTu Tango (feet) and SC-6 Sunkissed (top). SC-28 Blue Isle topped with SC-87 Ruby Slippers. SC-11 Blue Yonder topped with SC-6 Sunkissed
Paint the wing with SC-6 Sunkissed, three coats and the embossed lines with SC-88 TuTu Tango.
Paint his head SC-53 Purple Haze and accented with SC-95 Pinkie Swear
Fire to cone 06
Penguin:
Each alebrije comes to life through the energy and creativity of the artist. Use your intuition to create your own custom alebrije!
Here are some guidelines to help:
Think of your color in opposites. Paint each section of the penguin in a different color, three coats.
Use a bold and contrasting color to go on top of each section and use dashes, dots, hash marks, even hearts to add interesting character to your alebrije.
Give it a name and a superpower!
Glaze and fire to cone 06
Form
MB-1572 Penguin Facet-ini
MB-1573 Fish Facet-ini
MB-1574 Bee Facet-ini
Colors
Fish
SC-16 Cotton Tail
SC-87 Ruby Slippers
SC-6 Sunkissed
SC-7 Leapin Lizard
SC-53 Purple Haze
SC-76 Cara-bein Blue
SC-28 Blue Isle
SC-24 Dandelion
SC-15 Tuxedo
Bee
SC-16 Cotton Tail
SC-20 Cashew Later
SC-87 Ruby Slippers
SC-6 Sunkissed
SC-7 Leapin Lizard
SC-53 Purple Haze
SC-76 Cara-bein Blue
SC-28 Blue Isle
SC-24 Dandelion
SC-15 Tuxedo
SC-95 Pinkie Swear
SC-88 Tu Tu Tango
SC-11 Blue Yonder
Penguin
SC-16 Cotton Tail
SC-87 Ruby Slippers
SC-6 Sunkissed
SC-7 Leapin Lizard
SC-53 Purple Haze
SC-76 Cara-bein Blue
SC-28 Blue Isle
SC-24 Dandelion
SC-15 Tuxedo
Decorating Accessories
RB-104 #4 Liner Brush
RB-118 #8 Round Brush
RB-110 10/0 Detail Liner Brush
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sponge
Water
Low-Fire|Earthenware Bisque|Garden|Home Décor
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35807
Crystal and Stroke & Coat Facet-inis (Bee, Fish & Penguin)
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 1 coat to the face and belly of the penguin. Apply a 2nd coat to the face.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 1 coat to the upper part of the belly. Shade with SC-16 Cotton Tail down to the feet.
Using the Script Liner with SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, apply 2 coats to the beak and feet. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil to draw the eyes.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-11 Blue Yonder, apply 2 coats to the eyes.
Using SG-401 Black, outline the facets on the front of the penguin. Add pupils to the eyes.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, make a dot in each pupil.
Using the Script Liner with NT-BR Clear One Brushing, apply 1 coat to the front of the penguin (over areas you just glazed).
Using the Script Liner and Soft Fan with CG-970 Masquerade, apply 2 coats to the rest of the penguin. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 06.
Fish
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the pencil to draw a circle around the face of the fish. This will separate the smooth face from the body with “scales”.
Using the Script Liner with SC-11 Blue Yonder, apply 1 coat to the outer edge of the face. Shade towards the mouth with SC-45 My Blue Heaven. Repeat when dry.
Using the Script Liner with SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, apply 1 coat to the inner part of a fin. Dip the same brush into SC-6 Sunkissed and shade towards the outer part. Repeat for each fin. Then repeat for a second coat.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply a dot to the pupils of the eyes.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, make a dot in each pupil.
Using SG-404 Blue, outline the facets on the face and fins.
Using the Script Liner with NT-BR Clear One Brushing, apply 1 coat to the face and fins (over areas you just glazed).
Using the Script Liner and Soft Fan with CG-983 Koi Pond, apply 2 coats to the rest of the fish. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 06.
Bee
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 1 coat to the outer edge of the face. Dip the same brush into SC-16 Cotton Tail and shade to the center of the face. Repeat.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 2 coats to the tops of the antennae. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-11 Blue Yonder, apply 1 coat to the center of a wing. Dip the same brush into SC-45 My Blue Heaven. Shade towards the edge of the wing. Repeat for all wings. Repeat for a second coat.
Use the pencil to draw the eyes.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-11 Blue Yonder, apply 2 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using SG-401 Black, outline the facets on the antennae and the details on the face.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, make a dot in each pupil.
Using SG-404 Blue, outline the facets on the wings.
Using the Script Liner with NT-BR Clear One Brushing, apply 1 coat to the face, antennae and wings (over areas you just glazed).
Using the Script Liner with CG-1000 Mardi Gras, apply 2 coats to the 2nd and 4th sections of the body (from the top). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Pour around 1 TBS of CG-1000 Mardi Gras onto the palette. Pick out some of the crystals with the Detail Liner. Place the crystals around the edge of the face.
Using the Script Line and Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats the rest of the bee. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
On the DSS-0162 Holiday Icons screen, locate snowflakes. Draw an outline around them in permanent marker. Cut them out with excess screen around the edges.
Squeeze around 1 TBS of SG-401 Black onto the palette. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or designer liner.
Place a snowflake on the belly or face of the penguin. While holding the screen firmly in place, take a small amount of premixed silkscreen medium, and gently rub in circles starting in the center and working outward.
Wash the screen and repeat as pictured.
Using SG-401 Black, make dots on the belly and face. Outline the eyes, beak, feet and border of the belly/face. Make a pupil in the eyes.
Using the Script Liner with EL-101 Oyster Shell, apply 2 coats to the face and belly. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with NT-BR Clear One Brushing, apply 2 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with EL-143 Cactus Flower, apply 2 coats to the beak and feet. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner and Soft Fan with EL-134 Mirror Blue, apply 3 coats to the body. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 06.
Fish
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the pencil to draw a line separating the face from the body.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Line with SC-88 Tu Tu Tango, apply 2 coats to the top fin and mouth. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 2 coats to the back fin. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-9 Jaded, apply 2 coats to the side fins. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue, apply 3 coats to the face. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner and Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 3 coats to the body only. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the eyes, mouth and fins. Apply 2 coats to the pupils. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with AC-302 Wax Resist, outline the facets on the body.
Using the Script Liner with SG-202 White Cobblestone, apply 2 coats to each facet on the body. Allow glaze to lose its shine before applying the second coat, but do not wait until it is dry enough to crack.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-11 Blue Yonder, SC-27 Sour Apple, SC-33 Fruit of the Vine and SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 1 coat to each of the facets with cobblestone.
Using FD-258 Pure White, add decorative dots and lines to the fins and face.
Fire to cone 06.
Bee
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the pencil to draw the “tear drops” coming down the facets on the body and around the face.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 2 coats to the “tear drops” on the 2nd and 4th row of facets on the body and the tops of the antenna. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the “tear drops” on the 1st and 3rd row of facets on the body, arms and feet. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Use the Detail Liner to outline the eyes, nose, mouth and yellow “tear drops”.
Using the Script Liner with FN-203 Dry Champagne, apply 2 coats to the 2nd and 4th row of facets on the body and face. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with FN-220 Sooty Gray, apply 2 coats to the 1st and 3rd row of facets on the body and the head (not face). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with CC-108 China Sea, apply 3 coats to the wings. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 06.
Using the Script Liner with SS-138 Flat Black, apply 1 coat to the wings. Wipe off with a damp sponge.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
On the DSS-0165 Mushrooms screen, draw an outline around each mushroom in permanent marker. Cut them out with excess screen around the edges.
Squeeze out around 1 TBS of SC-15 Tuxedo onto the palette. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or glaze.
Choose which mushrooms you would like to use. Place one screen on the platter, shiny-side down. While holding the screen firmly in place, take a small amount of premixed silkscreen medium, and gently rub in circles starting in the center and working outward. Repeat for the rest of the mushrooms.
Use the pencil to draw a wavy line at the end of the platter. This will be the line between the screened section and the colored section.
Using the Soft Fan with NT-BR Clear One Brushing, apply 2 coats to the front of the platter. Only to the larger half made by the line. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 2 coats to the front of the platter. Only to the smaller half made by the line. Also apply 2 coats to the edges and back of the platter. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with EL-125 Sahara Sands, apply 2 coats over the smaller half of the platter glazed in Step #7. Apply a 3rd coat just to the center of the section.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
On the DSS-0166 Tropical Leaves screen, draw an outline around each leaf in permanent marker. Cut them out with excess screen around the edges.
Squeeze out around 1 TBS of SC-15 Tuxedo onto the palette. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or glaze.
Choose which leaves you would like to use. Place one screen on the platter, shiny-side down. While holding the screen firmly in place, take a small amount of premixed silkscreen medium, and gently rub in circles starting in the center and working outward. Repeat for the rest of the leaves.
Use the pencil to draw a wavy line towards the end of the platter. This will be the line between the screened section and the colored section.
Using the Soft Fan with NT-BR Clear One Brushing, apply 2 coats to the front of the platter. Only to the larger half made by the line. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 2 coats to the front of the platter. Only to the smaller half made by the line. Also apply 2 coats to the edges and back of the platter. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with EL-142 Grass, apply 2 coats over the smaller half of the platter glazed in Step #7. Apply a 3rd coat just to the center of the section.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the pencil to draw a wavy line towards the end of the platter. This will be the line between the screened section and the colored section.
Squeeze out around 2 TBS of SC-15 Tuxedo onto the palette. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or glaze.
Place the DSS-0164 Continuous Swirls screen over the platter, shiny side down. While holding the screen firmly in the center, take the squeegee and scoop out around 1 TSP of premixed silkscreen medium. Silkscreen up to the pencil line. Firmly run the squeegee across the center of the plate spreading the medium. Repeat with more medium until the center is covered. Then repeat going up from the center to the outside of the platter.
Using the Soft Fan with NT-BR Clear One Brushing, apply 2 coats to the silkscreen area. Do not apply clear glaze where the Elements glaze is applied. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 2 coats to the small area that is not silkscreened on the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with EL-127 Rose Granite, apply 2 coats over the smaller half of the platter glazed in Step #6. Apply a 3rd coat just to the center of the section.
Apply three coats of FN-009 Black to the back of the plate.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the pencil to draw a wavy line towards the end of the platter. This will be the line between the screened section and the colored section.
Squeeze out around 2 TBS of SC-15 Tuxedo onto the palette. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or glaze.
Place the DSS-0163 Continuous Fronds screen over the platter, shiny side down. While holding the screen firmly in the center, take the squeegee and scoop out around 1 TSP of premixed silkscreen medium. Firmly run the squeegee across the center of the plate spreading the medium. Silkscreen up to the pencil line. Repeat with more medium until the center is covered. Then repeat going up from the center to the outside of the platter.
Using the Soft Fan with NT-BR Clear One Brushing, apply 2 coats to the silkscreened area only. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 2 coats to the small area that is not silkscreened. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with EL-148 Smoked Lilac, apply 2 coats over the smaller half of the platter glazed in Step #6. Apply a 3rd coat just to the center of the section.
Using the Soft Fan brush apply three coats of FN-009 Black to the back of the plate and rim.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
On the DSS-0165 Mushrooms screen, draw an outline around each mushroom in permanent marker. Cut them out with excess screen around the edges.
Position the pattern over the platter. Slide AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern. Trace with the pencil.
Using the Script Liner with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, SC-24 Dandelion, SC-25 Crackerjack Brown and SC-46 Rawhide, apply 2 coats to each of the corresponding sections. Refer to the pattern.
Squeeze out around 1 TBS of SC-15 Tuxedo onto the palette. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or glaze.
Choose which mushrooms you would like on each section of the platter. Place one screen on the platter, shiny side down. While holding the screen firmly in place, take a small amount of premixed silkscreen medium, and gently rub in circles starting in the center and working outward. Repeat for the rest of the mushrooms.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, make decorative lines and dots on the platter.
Using the Soft Fan with SP-703 Autumn, apply 2 coats to the front of the platter. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the back and edges of the platter. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
On the DSS-0166 Tropical Leaves screen, draw an outline around each leaf in permanent marker. Cut them out with excess screen around the edges.
Position the pattern over the platter. Slide AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern. Trace with the pencil.
Using the Script Liner with SC-2 Melon-Choly, SC-9 Jaded, SC-45 My Blue Heaven and SC-77 Glo-Worm, apply 2 coats to each of the corresponding sections. Refer to the pattern.
Squeeze out around 1 TBS of SC-15 Tuxedo onto the palette. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or glaze.
Choose which leaves you would like on each section of the platter. Place one screen on the platter, shiny side down. While holding the screen firmly in place, take a small amount of premixed silkscreen medium, and gently rub in circles starting in the center and working outward. Repeat for the rest of the leaves.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, make decorative lines and dots on the platter.
Using the Soft Fan with SP-702 Celebration, apply 2 coats to the front of the platter. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the back and edges of the platter. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze out around 2 TBS of SC-10 Teal Next Time onto the palette. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or glaze.
Place the DSS-0163 Continuous Fronds screen over the platter, shiny side down. While holding the screen firmly in the center, take the squeegee and scoop out around 1 TSP of premixed silkscreen medium. Firmly run the squeegee across the center of the plate, spreading the medium. Repeat with more medium until the center is covered. Then repeat going up from the center to the outside of the platter.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-216 Sea Glass, apply 2 coats to the front of the platter. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Once the glaze is dry to the touch, place 1 piece of MC-002 12mm Low Track Masking Tape going across the center.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-231 Clearly Jade, apply 1 coat below the tape. Remove the tape before the glaze is bone dry.
Once the glaze is dry to the touch, place another piece of MC-002 12mm Low Track Masking Tape going across the center of the previously glazed section.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-231 Clearly Jade, apply 1 coat below the tape. Remove the tape before the glaze is bone dry.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-10 Teal Next Time, apply 3 coats to the back and edge of the platter. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze out around 2 TBS of SC-12 Moody Blue onto the palette. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or glaze.
Place the DSS-0164 Continuous Swirls screen over the platter, shiny side down. While holding the screen firmly in the center, take the squeegee and scoop out around 1 TSP of premixed silkscreen medium. Firmly run the squeegee across the center of the plate, spreading the medium. Repeat with more medium until the center is covered. Then repeat going up from the center to the outside of the platter.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-212 Blue Diamond, apply 2 coats to the front of the platter. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Once the glaze is dry to the touch, place 1 piece of MC-002 12mm Low Track Masking Tape going across the center.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-213 Saffire Blue, apply 1 coat below the tape. Remove the tape before the glaze is bone dry.
Once the glaze is dry to the touch, place another piece of MC-002 12mm Low Track Masking Tape going across the center of the previously glazed section.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-213 Saffire Blue, apply 1 coat below the tape. Remove the tape before the glaze is bone dry.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-12 Moody Blue, apply 3 coats to the back and edge of the platter. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use a palette knife to mix the AC-310 Silkscreen Medium with UG-50 Jet Black until it is the thickness of loose peanut butter. Use your finger to apply the thickened mixture through the screen.
Use a script liner and fan brush to apply 2 coats of SW-111 Wrought Iron to the rim and back of the plate; avoiding the foot.
Use a fan brush to apply 3 coats of SW-201 Turquoise to the entire plate; avoiding the foot.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use a palette knife to mix the AC-310 Silkscreen Medium with UG-50 Jet Black until it is the thickness of loose peanut butter. Use your finger to apply the thickened mixture through the screen. You can use the screen repeatedly, but be sure to rinse and thoroughly dry once the screen gets gummy/is not transferring as well. Lightly applying a grid on the plate with a pencil can help with making an even pattern.
Use a script liner and fan brush to apply 2 coats of UG-50 Jet Black to the rim and back of the plate; avoiding the foot.
Use a fan brush to apply 3 coats of SW-139 Lemon Meringue to the entire plate; avoiding the foot.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use a soft fan for each glaze to apply SW-502 Yellow Gloss and SW-507 Bright Green Gloss. Begin with Yellow Gloss in the center and then add the Bright Green by the edge, blend together where they meet. Apply 3 coats using this technique. A banding wheel is super helpful!
Once completely dry, use a palette knife to mix the AC-310 Silkscreen Medium with UG-50 Jet Black until it is the thickness of loose peanut butter. Use your finger to apply the thickened mixture through the leaf screen. You can use the screen repeatedly, but be sure to rinse and thoroughly dry once the screen gets gummy/is not transferring as well.
Use a fan and liner brush to apply 3 coats of SW-111 Wrought Iron to the inside/back and rim; avoiding the foot.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Create stripes on plat using masking tape.
Use a fan brush to apply 2 coats of UG-90 Green Mist to the plate – be sure to brush the glaze out so it is smooth and does not pool around the tape edges.
Allow underglaze to dry to the touch (not bone dry) and remove the tape.
Use a palette knife to mix the AC-310 Silkscreen Medium with SW-301 Iron Wash until it is the thickness of a loose peanut butter. Use your finger to apply the thickened mixture through the leaf screen. You can use the screen repeatedly, but be sure to rinse and thoroughly dry once the screen gets gummy/is not transferring as well. Lightly applying a grid on the plate with a pencil can help with making an even pattern.
Allow the screened images to dry completely before using a fan brush to apply SW-201 Turquoise. Apply the first coat very carefully! SW-301 Iron Wash will smear easily with a brush. Apply a total of 3 coats and be sure to brush out the second 2 because the first one will be gloppy (since you can’t brush it out as much).
Use a script liner and fan brush to apply SW-128 Cordovan to the rim and back of the plate – avoiding the foot.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use a fan brush to apply 1 coat of SW-203 Squash Yellow to the face of the plate. Be somewhat mindful of the brush strokes as they may be visible. Adding a bit of water to your brush and mixing into the UG can help the application be smoother. Use big broad brush strokes.
Use a fan brush to apply 1 coat of UG-217 Red Coal as dots over the face of the plate. Load the brush and swirl onto the plate to create a loose and imperfect dot.
Use a palette knife to mix the AC-310 Silkscreen Medium with UG-01 True Teal and UG-94 Pansy Purple until they are the thickness of a loose peanut butter. Use your finger to apply the thickened mixture through the screen. You can use the screen repeatedly, but be sure to rinse and thoroughly dry once the screen gets gummy/is not transferring as well. Lightly applying a grid on the plate with a pencil can help with making an even pattern. Begin with one color and then follow up with the second by off-setting the images.
Use a script liner and fan brush to apply 3 coats of SW-134 Eggplant to the rim and back of the plate – avoiding the foot. (or the inside and handle of the mug)
Use a fan brush to apply 2 coats of SW-001 Stoneware Clear to the face of the plate.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Each alebrije comes to life through the energy and creativity of the artist. Use your intuition to create your own custom alebrije! Here are some guidelines to help!
Think of your color in opposites. Paint each section of the penguin in a different color, three coats.
Use a bold and contrasting color to go on top of each section and use dashes, dots, hash marks, even hearts to add interesting character to your alebrije.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
If desired, drill a hole with the carbide bit through the center of the bottom of the bowl.
Bee Instructions:
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 coats of SW-501 White Gloss to the outside of the bowl. Make sure you don’t get any glaze on the rim. Let dry completely.
Using the pencil and AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper, trace the pattern onto the upside down bowl. You will have to adjust the pattern as you go along so that it is laying flat on the section you are working on. Use a pencil to extend the lines down for the stripes.
Using the CB-106 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SW-502 Yellow Gloss to the face of the bee and every other stripe, leaving the eyes and wings white. Use the photo as a guide.
Using the CB-106 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SW-508 Black Gloss to the rest of the stripes.
Fill the AC-219 Designer Bottle with Writer tip with SW-508 Black Gloss. Use it to outline the facial features and the lines on the wings.
Fill the AC-219 Designer Bottle with Writer tip with SC-97 Cant-Elope. Use it to draw squiggles onto the yellow sections of the bee and on his eyelids.
Use the SB-110 Mini Liner to apply 2 coats of SW-506 Bright Blue Gloss to the eyes.
Use a damp sponge to remove any glaze that got onto the rim.
Fire the bowl upside down. Do not stilt or hang over the edge of the kiln shelf.
Fire to cone 5/6.
Insert the threaded rod into the drilled hole and secure with the nuts and the washers to make a garden stake. You may have to use the drill to make the hole a little bigger if it shrank during firing.
Ladybug Instructions:
Using the pencil and AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper, trace the pattern onto the upside down bowl. You will have to adjust the pattern as you go along so that it is laying flat on the section you are working on. Trace the legs on both sides of the bowl.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 3 coats of SW-504 Red Gloss to the body of the ladybug, leaving the face, back side triangle and feet unglazed. Use the photo as a guide.
Using the CB-106 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SW-508 Black Gloss to the face, the feet, and the back side triangle. Don’t glaze the eyes.
Using the CB-106 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SW-501 White Gloss to the eyes. Let dry completely.
Fill the AC-219 Designer Bottle with Writer tip with SW-508 Black Gloss. Use it to outline the eyes, the line down the back, and his antennae. Also use it to make polka dots on the back.
Fill the AC-219 Designer Bottle with Writer tip with SW-501 White Gloss. Use it to add highlights to the face, feet and dots. Draw in the smile and the nose.
Use the SB-110 Mini Liner to apply 2 coats of SW-506 Bright Blue Gloss to the eyes.
Use the SB-110 Mini Liner to apply 2 coats of SW-504 Red Gloss to the eyelids.
Use a damp sponge to remove any glaze that got onto the rim.
Fire the bowl upside down. Do not stilt or hang over the edge of the kiln shelf.
Fire to cone 5/6.
Insert the threaded rod into the drilled hole and secure with the nuts and the washers to make a garden stake. You may have to use the drill to make the hole a little bigger if it shrank during firing.
Use a moistened Synthetic Sponge to wipe down the piece. Check the inside of the bisque vase for any loose debris as well. Do not use your Silk Decorating Sponge for this step.
Apply the Blue Masking Tape around the outer lip of the vase. Use the tape to cover a portion of the neck area as well.
In a Plastic Cup mix FN-304 Black Velvet with water to a melted ice cream consistency. Pour the thinned glaze into the vase. While working quickly, rotate the vase to cover the inside of the vase. Pour out any excess glaze trying not to get any color onto the outer portion of the vase.
Invert the vase to drain and dry. Immediately wipe off any drips of glaze from the taped area and vase with a damp Synthetic Sponge. This step may need to be repeated for adequate coverage. When dry, remove the tape from the vase. Check to make sure no black glaze remains on the outside of the vase.
Apply 3-4 even and smooth coats of FN-301 Marshmallow White Matte to the outside of the vase using CB-604 Soft Fan. Let dry.
Transfer the basic design onto the vase using AC-230 Clay Carbon and a pencil. Cut out the individual flower patterns creating stencils.
On a tile place the EZ-Strokes and thin slightly with water.
Load the edge/tips of a slightly damp Silk Decorating Sponge with Some EZ-018 Chartreuse. While holding the full flower stencil onto the ware of the pattern, sponge/pounce around the stencil edge placing the color slightly over onto the stencil. The color should be the most concentrated around the edge of the stencil then fading out to nothing onto the background. This should extend only about ½”-1” around the pattern. Where the top flower shadows the lower flower, keep the color light and not extended as far.
Without rinsing the sponge, tip it next into the EZ-028 Leaf Green and repeat this process.
Pick up some of the EZ-011 Sienna Brown and EZ-032 Peacock Green and add some variation to the background edges. These colors should blend yet remain as individual colors extending in an uneven manner.
Remove the full flower stencil. Place the second lower flower stencil and repeat this shading with the Silk Decorating Sponge. Lightly apply some of the colors along the stem of the hanging leaves for shadow.
The leaves are done by pouncing in one coat of EZ-018 Chartreuse. Without rinsing the sponge, shade them with EZ-028 Leaf Green and then with EZ-033 Ivy Green. Keep the darker colors to the top portion of the leaves as well as the base of the leaves next to the flowers.
Use a clean Silk Decorating Sponge tipped with EZ-002 Cinderella Pink used to shade the flower petals. The color is darkest next to the flower center. To add further depth and shading, tip the sponge with EZ-030 Rose and darken the shading next to the flower center. The color should be darkest next to the center and fading out to nothing onto the petals. The petals are not fully covered with color.
Use the Silk Decorating Sponge loaded with EZ-026 Yellow Orange to pounce in the flower centers. Keep the shape of the centers a flattened oval shape. Tip the sponge in EZ-018 Chartreuse to shade the right upper portion of the center. Then shade the lower left portion of the center with EZ-011 Sienna Brown.
Load CB-106 Script Liner and CB-110 Liner loaded with EZ-012 Cobalt Black to detail the pattern. Follow the pattern on how to shape the lines on the pattern. Notice that the detail lines for the most part start out at a point, widen as they shape the leaf and then come to a fine point at the tip of the leaves. You want a bold and spontaneous look to the detail lines.
Condition the CB-106 Script Liner with Liquid Detergent. Do not rinse brush. Place a small amount of AC-302 Wax Resist in a Plastic Cup. Apply 1 coat of the wax over the leaves along the top of the flowers where the banded line will run. Wash brush immediately after use with warm water and Liquid Detergent. Let wax dry.
Center the vase onto the Banding Wheel. Use CB-106 Script Liner loaded with slightly thinned EZ-012 Cobalt Black. Brace your arm against something to aid in your stability while painting the banded line. Paint in a ½” band along the hip of the vase where it will intersect the leaves. Let dry. Use a moistened brush to remove any beads of color on the waxed area.
Stilt and Fire the vase to Self Cone 05-06.
Form
CD-1128 Medium Vase, Bisque
Colors
EZ-02 Cinderella Pink
EZ-011 Sienna Brown
EZ-012 Cobalt Black
EZ-018 Chartreuse
EZ-026 Yellow Orange
EZ-028 Leaf Green
EZ-032 Peacock Green
EZ-030 Rose
EZ-033 Ivy Green
FN-301 Marshmallow White (Matte)
FN-304 Black Velvet (Matte).
Decorating Accessories
CB-110 Liner
CB-106 Script Liner
CB-604 Soft Fan.
AC-230 Clay Carbon
AC-302 Wax Resist
Miscellaneous Accessories
Water
Silk Decorating Sponge (There is a difference in the usage of a Silk Decorating Sponge over other types, for that reason, the Silk Decorating Sponge should be used for this decorating process. A Synthetic Sponge does not produce the same effect as a Silk Decorating Sponge and will alter the overall look of the piece.)
Trace on the pattern to the greenware using a pencil and AC-230 Clay Carbon.
Place some of the EZ-Strokes onto a tile and thin slightly. Using a Silk Decorating sponge to pounce in 1-2 coats of EZ-026 Yellow Orange to the lemons. Let dry. If you don’t feel you can control the sponge to apply the shading around the edges of the lemons, you can cut the pattern to make a stencil to use to aid you in the shading.
Reload the edge of the sponge with EZ-011 Sienna Brown and shade the edges of the lemons. The color should be darkest along the edge of the lemon fading to nothing towards the center of the lemon.
Rinse the sponge and load with EZ-018 Chartreuse and sponge in a highlight on the main lemon.
Lightly outline the lemons with EZ-011 Sienna Brown using CB-110 Liner.
The leaves are blocked in with 1 coat of EZ-032 Peacock Green using CB-406 Pointed Round.
Shade the leaves with EZ-028 Leaf Green, EZ-033 Ivy Green and EZ-023 Midnight Blue. Keep the darkest color to the edges and base of the leaves.
Block in the stems to the leaves and lemons with EZ-011 Sienna Brown using CB-406 Pointed Round.
Detail the stem with EZ-010 French Brown using CB-110 Liner.
Use a Sgraffito Tool to scratch in the veins on the leaves.
Condition CB-406 Pointed Round with Liquid Detergent. Do not rinse brush.
Place some AC-302 Wax Resist into a Small Plastic Cup. Apply on coat of wax over the lemons and leaves. Apply the Wax Resist to the background area on the platter using the conditioned CB-406 Pointed Round. You want to apply one generous coat to the background portion around the filigree design. Keep the edges even and straight when painting the Wax Resist.
Paint in the dots in the filigree pattern with one coat of Wax Resist. Do not get any wax on the rest of the filigree areas. Wash the brush immediately after use with warm water and Liquid Detergent. Let dry.
Mix some EZ-013 White and EZ-032 Peacock Green about equal parts. Thin slightly with water.
Using the Silk Decorating Sponge to pounce in one coat to the filigree areas on the plate. Try not to go beyond the filigree pattern and onto the waxed areas if possible. A moistened brush with water should pick up any color left onto the waxed areas.
Darken the mixture with some EZ-023 Midnight Blue to a medium-dark blue. Sponge the color to the right and lower sections of the filigree pattern. Try not to get any color onto the waxed areas of the background. Again, use a moistened brush to lift any remaining droplets of color on the waxed areas.
Fire to Shelf Cone 04-03.
Use a moistened Synthetic Sponge to wipe down the piece to remove any debris or unattached droplets of color left after the bisque firing. Check the piece carefully.
Use CB-604 Soft Fan to apply 2-3 coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing to the front of the platter.
Apply 3-4 coats of FN-044 Yellow Orange to the back of the platter using CB-604 Soft Fan.
Stilt and fire the platter to Shelf Cone 05-06.
Form
CD-1307 Handled Platter, Greenware
Colors
EZ-010 French Brown
EZ-011 Sienna Brown
EZ-013 White
EZ-018 Chartreuse
EZ-023 Midnight Blue
EZ-026 Yellow Orange
EZ-028 Leaf Green
EZ-032 Peacock Green
EZ-033 Ivy Green
FN-044 Yellow Orange
S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing
Decorating Accessories
CB-106 Script Liner
CB-406 Pointed Round
CB-604 Soft Fan
AC-230 Clay Carbon
AC-302 Wax Resist
Miscellaneous Accessories
Water
Silk Decorating Sponge (There is a difference in the usage of a Silk Decorating Sponge over other types, for that reason, the Silk Decorating Sponge should be used for this decorating process. A Synthetic Sponge does not produce the same effect as a Silk Decorating Sponge and will alter the overall look of the piece.)
Use the X-Acto Knife to cut off the neck to the to the leather hard greenware vase. The opening should be about 2 ½” in diameter to accommodate the lid. Check to make sure the lid fits loosely. Let dry.
Clean the vase using a Clean Up Tool to remove the seams and neck of the vase. Use the Green Grit Cloth to sand the seam lines further. Use a dampened Synthetic Sponge to remove any dust from the ware. Check the inside of the vase for debris.
Fire the vase and lid to Shelf Cone 03-04.
Use a dampened Synthetic Sponge to wipe down the ware and check the inside for any debris.
In a Plastic Cup thin some FN-053 Mint with water to a melted ice cream consistency. Pour the thinned glaze into the vase. While working quickly, rotate the vase to completely cover the inside of the vase. Pour out excess glaze and invert to dry. Repeat this for the lid as well.
Apply 3 coats of FN-053 Mint to the outside of the vase and lid using CB-604 Soft Fan. Let dry.
Trace the design onto the ware using AC-230 Clay Carbon. The pattern may need to have darts cut along the edge to accommodate the shape of the ware. Use the Blue Masking Tape to keep the pattern in place while tracing.
Fill in the top left shamrock with 2-3 coats of SC-78 Lime Light using CB-404 Pointed Round. To the right of that shamrock (middle top), fill it in with SC- 27 Sour Apple as before. Next shamrock to the far right is SC-52 Toad-ily Green. Center large shamrock is SC-26 Green Thumb.
Detail the pattern with 1-2 coats of slightly thinned SC-8 Just Froggy using CB-110 Liner. Keep the lines as fine as possible. The lines should have a nice even flow to them.
The veins in the shamrocks are done with thinned SC-8 Just Froggy as well. The large center shamrock is detailed with thicker SC-8 Just Froggy.
To the lid, apply 2 coats of SC-8 Just Froggy to the top finial portion and lower section of the lid. Do not paint in the middle bead of the lid. This will allow you to more easily apply the Gold Luster later.
Stilt and Fire the pieces to Shelf Cone 05-06.
Place some OG801 Bright Gold Luster onto a tile to air thicken slightly before applying. Apply 1 even coat of OG801 Detail Gold Luster to the middle bead on the lid using OB-916G #6 Filbert Brush reserved for Gold Luster only. Clean brush in OA901 Essence reserved for Gold Luster.
Stilt and Fire the lid to Shelf Cone 018.
Form
CD-910 Vase, large, Wet greenware
CD-1445A Small Finial Jar, Lid only, greenware
Colors
FN-053 Mint
SC-8 Just Froggy
SC-26 Green Thumb
SC-27 Sour Apple
SC-52 Toad-ily Green
SC-78 Lime Light
OG801 Bright Gold Luster
OA901 Essence
Decorating Accessories
CB-110 Liner
CB-404 Pointed Round
CB-604 Soft Fan
OB-916G #6 Filbert Brush (reserved for gold luster only)
Using the SG-401 Designer Liner Black, outline the pattern lines.
Using the # 6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of EL-103 Sea Spray to the sky area.
Using the # 6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of EL-150 Deep Waters to the water area.
Using the # 6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of EL-122 malachite to the top center mountain.
Using the # 6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of EL-218 Green Sapphire to the left mountain.
Using the # 6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of EL-219 Lustre Green to the right mountain.
Using the # 6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of EL-150 Fern to the meadow area, then at random add some CG-987 Tree Frog to add flowers to the field.
Using both the # 6 Script Liner and # 6 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SW-188 landslide to the rim and back of the plate, excluding the foot and inside the foot area.
Place on a well kiln washed shelf and fire to shelf cone 6.
Lightly sand ware to remove any blemishes. With Paper Towel brush off any dust.
Using provided pattern and clay carbon (ncr paper), with Red Pencil trace the design onto the ware.
Damp sponge ware to remove any dust and to condition the piece for decorating. The damp sponging will not harm the tracing of design. Also, be aware that the clay carbon does not work on damp or wet ware.
As needed, place the Fundamental colors on the palette. If extremely thick, mix in a few drops of water using a palette knife.
To complete project the following brushes will be used, #6 Pointed Round, #4 Pointed Round and the #10/0 Liner.
Using the #6 Round, block in the leaves with a smooth coat of Apple Green. Reload the brush as needed. It is easier to work from base of leaf to its tip.
Fully load #6 Round with Apple Green and side load with Leaf Green. Again, working from base of leaf to its tip, apply a second coat of color to the leaves. Keep the darker shade (Leaf Green) to one side of the leaf and the lighter shade to the opposite side. Be sure to blend the colors. Allow to set.
Side load the water dampened #6 Round with Bright Yellow. Float this color down the lighter side of the leaf. The Bright Yellow will give a highlight effect.
Mix a few drops of Forest Green into the Leaf Green, making a slighter darker shade of green. Again, side loading the water damped Round with the new shade, float down the darker side of leaf and add a float of shading under the lemons where the lemons overlap the leaves.
Allow the leaves some drying time.
For best results, complete the lemons following these steps.
Basecoat lemons marked 1 and 2 with a smooth coat of Bright Yellow.
When the basecoat has set, load the #6 Round with Bright Yellow and stipple in a second coat of yellow over both basecoated Lemons. Try to achieve a texture raised appearance. Be sure to cover the lemons thoroughly.
Change the brush to #4 Round and pick up Squash Yellow, proceed to stipple the color along the edge of the lemon where its neighbor overlaps the lemon being shaded. Refer to the provided detail pattern. Work in a pouncing up and down motion, blending this darker shade into the Bright Yellow. Allow to set.
To the opposite side of the Squash Yellow and using the same brush that is loaded with a small amount of Apple Green, stipple a hint of the green along the lemon’s edge. Again, keep the color soft and blended.
A soft blended highlight can be stippled in with China White just off center. The highlight helps generate the round look of a lemon.
Add additional stippled shading over the Squash Yellow with Orange Sorbet.
Following the above steps complete Lemon #3 in the same manner. Note that the Squash Yellow/Orange Sorbet should be applied where the two leaves at the top of the design overlap the Lemon. The green accent maybe added to either side of the Lemon. Note: detailing will be completed last.
To create the soft washed out background place the following on the palette: Baby Blue, Sea Blue, Wild Violet and Regal Purple. Thin colors to a light cream consistency.
Fully load #6 Round with water and pat off excess into a paper towel. Some water should remain in the brush, tip load with both of the purple tones and blend on palette. Holding the Round on the flat and directing the tip to the design begin to float a wash of color around a leaf. Keep reloading the Round in the same manner using all four of the colors creating a blue/purple wash background. Color needs to be strongest next to the design. Note this is to be a thin application of these four Fundamentals. Vary the color as you proceed around the leaves and lemons.
With #4 Round loaded with Spiced Brown and side loaded with Chocolate, pull in the stems with two blended coats. For the finer twigs pull in the same two colors keeping the application narrow and twig like. The branch is applied over the background wash of colors.
Thin down Forest Green with water. Fully load the #10/0 Liner with the green, proceed to outline the leaves with a broken, thick and thin line. Also, add a center vein down the middle of each leaf and pull out fine side veins.
The Lemons are detailed with thinned Chocolate and the #10/0 Liner. Use a broken, hit and miss soft outline. Add tiny accent dots to the lemons, just a few.
Accent the stems with fine hints of Black here and there along the stems. Be sure to sign the piece, again using #10/0 Liner.
If desired, center piece on a banding wheel, thin down Regal Purple with water. Dampen the 1” foam brush with water. Soak up the thinned Regal Purple to one side of the foam brush. Proceed to add a thin band of color around the edge of plate.
Fire the ware to cone 04.
Damp sponge ware to remove any fired dust and to condition the piece for glazing.
Apply with Fan Brush, two to three coats of Crystal Clear to entire plate, front and back. Piece may also be dipped with Clear Glaze.
Stilt ware and fire to shelf cone 06.
Remove stilt marks with Dremel Tool or Stilt Stone.
Place around 1 TBS of clay into a small bowl or cup. Add around 1 TBS of water and let sit. Mash up the clay to make slip. You might need to add more water or clay to make it the right consistency. It should have a similar consistency as gravy.
Roll out clay with a rolling pin until it is around 1/8” thick.
Using the ruler, square and knife, cut out a rectangle that is 4” wide by 12” long.
Find something circular that has at least a 4” diameter. Place it on the clay and cut out the circle.
Lift up the circle and rectangle to make sure they are not stuck to your work surface.
Take your jewelry and press them into a scrap piece of clay. Remove them to see what impression they make. Once you find the ones you like, press them into the rectangular slab to make a textured design.
Use the pencil to score the front, right side of the rectangle. It should just be the least ½” from the side. Use the pencil to score the back, left side of the rectangle. It should just be the least ½” from the side. Cover the scored areas with slip and join them together to form a cylinder.
Take the circle of clay and score ½” around the edge. Score the bottom edge of the cylinder. Add slip to both scored areas. Place the cylinder onto the circle. Take the knife and trim off any excess from the circle. Use the rib to smooth down the joint at the bottom.
Allow piece to air dry until it is firm enough to handle.
Using the Soft Fan with UG-72 Wedgewood Blue or UG-209 Jade, apply 1 coat to the bottom half of the candle holder (do not glaze the actual bottom). Dip the same brush into UG-51 China White and shade up to the top of the candle holder. Repeat for a total of 3 coats.
Using the Soft Fan with UG-51 China White, apply 3 coats to the inside of the candle holder.
Using the Soft Fan with NT-BR Clear One Brushing, apply 2 coats to the outside (not bottom) and inside of the candle holder.
Place spots of Jaded, Teal Next Time and Cara-bein Blue on a palette. Completely load the ¾” wash brush with Jaded and tip one edge with Teal Next Time and the other edge with Cara-bein Blue. Go to a clean area of palette and work the brush back and forth in the same spot to blend the colors in the brush.
Leaving about a three-inch center area blank in the inside bottom of the bowl, create a stroke with the wash brush going out toward the edge of the bowl. The stroke does not have to go all the way to the edge.
Repeat the strokes around the bowl by flipping the brush so where the strokes overlap, the colors match. So, the Cara-bein Blue always overlaps and the Teal Next Time overlaps. Repeat this around the entire inside of bowl, leaving the center three inches blank. Remember, strokes don’t all have to go all the way to the edge of the bowl. You’ll probably reload the brush with colors every couple of strokes.
Apply a generous coat of Cotton Tail to about a quarter of the center area in the bottom of the bowl. Use the liner brush to pick up some Cara-bein Blue and create S strokes in the white. Immediately dip the same liner brush (without washing) into the Teal Next time and create more S strokes, blending them wet into wet with Cotton Tail and Cara-bein Blue. Repeat this process with Jaded, creating a marble look with the four colors. Repeat this process with the other four quarters of the center bottom of the bowl.
Add spots of Sunkissed, Leapin’ Lizard, and Just Froggy to your palette. Fully load the ¾” wash brush with Sunkissed. Corner load one edge with Leapin’ Lizard and the other edge with Just Froggy and work back in forth on a bare spot on the palette to get a nice blend of the three colors on the brush.
On the outside of the bowl, create leaf strokes with the Just Froggy to the outside edge. Flip the brush over and create another stroke so the Leapin’ Lizard is overlapping in the center of the leaf. Pivot the brush so it comes to a point at the tip of each stroke.
Dilute a little bit of the Cara-bein Blue and create a wash of color between the leaves.
Dilute some Tuxedo and use the liner brush of choice to loosely outline flower petals inside the bowl. Add veining in the petals by pulling strokes at different lengths out from the outer edge of the center circle.
Dab dots of Tuxedo around the outer edge of the center circle inside of bowl. Create a fade of Tuxedo dots going in slightly to the center.
Outline and vein the leaves on the outside of the bowl with thinned Tuxedo.
Thin some Tuxedo and pick up just a little bit with the bristle fan brush. Flick the bristles back at the inside and outside of the bowl to speckle. Be careful not to get the specks on other items.
Use the sponge to pick up a little Tuxedo and dab along the top edge of the bowl and bottom foot areas.
Use a brush handle to add Cotton Tail dots to the tips of some of the flower veins. Add some dots in the center area. Add dots along rim of bowl.
Allow to dry, dip in choice of clear, and fire to cone 06.
Using the liner brush, add short dashes of Hot Tamale following the shape of the top arch to resemble a straight stitch. Reload your brush every few dashes to keep the coats thick and even.
Use the #6 Script Liner to paint the second arch with 2 coats of SC23 Jack-O-Lantern and the third arch with 2 coats of SC42 Butter Me Up.
Use a dotting tool to add SC52 Toadily Green dots along the fourth arch, taking care to evenly space them apart to resemble french knots.
Use the liner brush with SC28 Blue Isle to add a herringbone stitch to the fifth arch by painting a line in the middle of the arch and adding V shapes along the line. Add a second coat on the herringbone stitch.
Use the #6 Script Liner to paint the sixth arch with 2 coats of SC103 Lavendear.
Use the liner brush to add a buttonhole stitch to the seventh arch by painting a line following the arch, then adding dashes coming down from the line, following the shape of the arch.
Use the fan brush to paint the inside of the planter with 3 coats of SC33 Fruit of the Vine.
Use the fan brush to paint the top and back of the planter with 3 coats of SC74 Hot Tamale.
When the planter has dried, paint 2 even coats of SG703 Autumn Speckta-clear to the front, top and back of the planter.
Do not clear glaze. Fire to cone 06.
Tie the twine and knot by the holes in the hanger once fired. Optional: add a dot of super glue to the knot for extra security.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour White Roll-A-Coat into the 2oz disposable cup. Pour into the vase and rotate until the inside is covered. Pour out the excess into the disposable cup. Discard. If you would like to tint the White Roll-A-Coat, see tinting directions below.
Using the sponge with EL-101 Oyster Shell, apply 2 coats to the outside of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats. This will be the only glaze on the bottom.
Pour around 1 TBS of CG-1008 Blue Guppy, EL-101 Oyster Shell, PC-601 Clear Cascade, PC-602 White Cascade, SC-10 Teal Next Time, and SC-96 Aqu-ward onto the palette.
Dip the sponge into PC-602 White Cascade. Randomly sponge the vase until around ¼ of the vase is covered. The glaze should be thick, but not dripping.
Dip the same sponge into CG-1008 Blue Guppy. Randomly sponge the vase until around ½ of the vase is covered. The glaze should be thick, but not dripping. Make sure to sponge over some of the glaze from Step #5.
Dip the same sponge into EL-101 Oyster Shell. Randomly sponge the vase until around ½ of the vase is covered. The glaze should be thick, but not dripping. Make sure to sponge over some of the glaze from Step #5 and #6.
Dip the same sponge into PC-601 Clear Cascade. Randomly sponge the vase until around ¼ of the vase is covered. The glaze should be thick, but not dripping. Make sure to sponge over some of the glaze from Step #5, #6, and #7.
At this point, the entire vase should have a third coat.
Dip the same sponge into SC-96 Aqu-ward. Randomly sponge the vase until around ¼ of the vase is covered.
Dip the same sponge into SC-10 Teal Next Time. Randomly sponge the vase until around ¼ of the vase is covered.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Orange Vase:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour White Roll-A-Coat into the 2oz disposable cup. Pour into the vase and rotate until the inside is covered. Pour out the excess into the disposable cup. Discard. If you would like to tint the White Roll-A-Coat, see tinting directions below.
Using the sponge with EL101 Oyster Shell, apply 2 coats to the outside of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats. This will be the only glaze on the bottom.
Pour around 1 TBS of CG1002 Day Lily, EL101 Oyster Shell, PC601 Clear Cascade, PC602 White Cascade, SC024 Dandelion, and SC088 Tu Tu Tango onto the palette.
Dip the sponge into PC602 White Cascade. Randomly sponge the vase until around ¼ of the vase is covered. The glaze should be thick, but not dripping.
Dip the same sponge into CG1002 Day Lily. Randomly sponge the vase until around ½ of the vase is covered. The glaze should be thick, but not dripping. Make sure to sponge over some of the glaze from Step #5.
Dip the same sponge into EL101 Oyster Shell. Randomly sponge the vase until around ½ of the vase is covered. The glaze should be thick, but not dripping. Make sure to sponge over some of the glaze from Step #5 and #6.
Dip the same sponge into PC601 Clear Cascade. Randomly sponge the vase until around ¼ of the vase is covered. The glaze should be thick, but not dripping. Make sure to sponge over some of the glaze from Step #5, #6, and #7.
At this point, the entire vase should have a third coat.
Dip the same sponge into SC024 Dandelion. Randomly sponge the vase until around ¼ of the vase is covered.
Dip the same sponge into SC088 Tu Tu Tango. Randomly sponge the vase until around ¼ of the vase is covered.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Mark the bowl to divide the bowl into even sections.
Apply 2 coats of SW196 Sand Dollar in “V”s. Using the mapped sections to evenly place them.
Use a squeeze bottle to apply 2 coats of SW100 Blue Surf as a line on top of the brushed design (we placed ours centered in the middle of the brush stroke).
Apply 3 coats of SW130 Copper Jade to the inside and outside of the bowl, avoiding the foot.
Use a clean sponge to wipe any excess glaze off the foot.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 6×6” bisque tile. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan brush with FN009 Black, apply 2 coats to the front and edges of the tile. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
When glaze is dry to the touch, place the pattern on the tile.
Using very light pressure, trace over the pattern with the pencil.
Using the Detail Liner, coat bristles with liquid soap, then use AC302 Wax Resist to outline the pattern on the tile.
Using the Script Liner with SG202 White Cobblestone, apply 3 coats to each section of the pattern (not the background). Allow glaze to lose its shine before applying the 2nd and 3rd coats. Wait for the 3rd coat to lose its shine before moving on to Step #7.
Using the Script Liner with SC100 Making Me Blush (background), SC101 Spruce it up (stem and dots), SC102 Just Peachy (ground), SC103 Lavendear (cap), SC104 Grape Expectations (gills) apply 1 coat to each section of the pattern as indicated between the parentheses.
Using a round brush, apply 2 coats of Amber Ash to the center of the flower.
Use a fan brush to apply 2 flowing coats of Rose Granite to the remainder of the plate, including the edges.
When the center of the flower is dry, use a round brush to apply one generous coat of Peppermint Twist to the center of the flower.
Starting about 1/4” in from the edge of the plate,
Use a fan brush to apply 2 flowing coats of Oyster Shell to the petals. By leaving the tips of the petal without Oyster Shell, it will give us some variation in the petal color.
When the front of the plate is dry, flip it over and apply 3 flowing coats of Rose Granite to the back of the plate.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
If desired, drill a hole with the carbide bit through the center of the bottom of the bowl.
Bee Instructions:
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 coats of SW-501 White Gloss to the outside of the bowl. Make sure you don’t get any glaze on the rim. Let dry completely.
Using the pencil and AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper, trace the pattern onto the upside down bowl. You will have to adjust the pattern as you go along so that it is laying flat on the section you are working on. Use a pencil to extend the lines down for the stripes.
Using the CB-106 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SW-502 Yellow Gloss to the face of the bee and every other stripe, leaving the eyes and wings white. Use the photo as a guide.
Using the CB-106 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SW-508 Black Gloss to the rest of the stripes.
Fill the AC-219 Designer Bottle with Writer tip with SW-508 Black Gloss. Use it to outline the facial features and the lines on the wings.
Fill the AC-219 Designer Bottle with Writer tip with SC-97 Cant-Elope. Use it to draw squiggles onto the yellow sections of the bee and on his eyelids.
Use the SB-110 Mini Liner to apply 2 coats of SW-506 Bright Blue Gloss to the eyes.
Use a damp sponge to remove any glaze that got onto the rim.
Fire the bowl upside down. Do not stilt or hang over the edge of the kiln shelf.
Fire to cone 5/6.
Insert the threaded rod into the drilled hole and secure with the nuts and the washers to make a garden stake. You may have to use the drill to make the hole a little bigger if it shrank during firing.
Ladybug Instructions:
Using the pencil and AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper, trace the pattern onto the upside down bowl. You will have to adjust the pattern as you go along so that it is laying flat on the section you are working on. Trace the legs on both sides of the bowl.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 3 coats of SW-504 Red Gloss to the body of the ladybug, leaving the face, back side triangle and feet unglazed. Use the photo as a guide.
Using the CB-106 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SW-508 Black Gloss to the face, the feet, and the back side triangle. Don’t glaze the eyes.
Using the CB-106 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SW-501 White Gloss to the eyes. Let dry completely.
Fill the AC-219 Designer Bottle with Writer tip with SW-508 Black Gloss. Use it to outline the eyes, the line down the back, and his antennae. Also use it to make polka dots on the back.
Fill the AC-219 Designer Bottle with Writer tip with SW-501 White Gloss. Use it to add highlights to the face, feet and dots. Draw in the smile and the nose.
Use the SB-110 Mini Liner to apply 2 coats of SW-506 Bright Blue Gloss to the eyes.
Use the SB-110 Mini Liner to apply 2 coats of SW-504 Red Gloss to the eyelids.
Use a damp sponge to remove any glaze that got onto the rim.
Fire the bowl upside down. Do not stilt or hang over the edge of the kiln shelf.
Fire to cone 5/6.
Insert the threaded rod into the drilled hole and secure with the nuts and the washers to make a garden stake. You may have to use the drill to make the hole a little bigger if it shrank during firing.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the pencil and AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper, trace the bee from the pattern onto the inside side of the plate 7 times, leaving equal amounts of space between each.
Using the SG-401 Black Designer Liner, go over the traced lines of each bee and fill in every other stripe of the body.
Using the SG-401 Black Designer Liner, make rows of dots between the bees. Use the photo as a reference.
Using the SG-407 Yellow Designer Liner, fill in the stripes of the bees’ bodies that aren’t black.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 3 coats of SW-510 Blue Gloss to the outside of the pie plate and to the top rim, leaving the bottom of the plate unglazed. Use a damp sponge to wipe off any glaze that may have gotten onto the bottom.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 3 coats of SW-136 Weathered Blue to the inside of the plate including over the bees.
Do not stilt or hang over the edge of the kiln shelf.
Fire to cone 5/6.
To use as a bee bath, put a layer of glass pebbles (available at Dollar Tree or craft stores) into the plate and fill it with water just so that the pebbles are covered.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the pencil and AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper, trace only the outline of the dog onto the front of the stein.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 3 coats of SW-133 Rusted Iron to the inside of the stein, the outside rims and the handle. Use a smaller brush to get hard to reach areas if desired.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 3 coats of SW-109 Capri Blue to the outside of the stein around the dog.
Using the CB-106 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SW-501 Gloss White to the dog and let dry completely.
Using the pencil and AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper, trace the words and shapes onto the inside of the dog. Cut out the pattern if desired to make it easier to line up properly.
Fill the AC-219 Designer Bottle with Writer tip with SW-508 Black Gloss. Use it to outline the dog and for the words and shapes inside the dog.
Using the CB-110 Mini Liner brush, apply 2 coats of SW-504 Red Gloss to the heart on the dog.
Fire to cone 5/6. Do not stilt or hang over the edge of the kiln shelf.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour around 1/4 cup of EL-101 Oyster Shell into the disposable cup. Thin with water until it is easily poured. Pour into the vase and rotate until the inside is covered. Pour out the excess.
Pour around ½ oz of PC-601 Clear Cascade into one of the 1oz bottles. Pour around ½ of PC-602 White Cascade into the other bottle. Screw on the detailer tips and cut the ends off until you can see a small hole.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-101 Oster Shell, apply 2 coats to the outside of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the 1oz bottle with PC-602 White Cascade, apply a continuous line going from the top of the vase to the bottom. The less perfect, the better.
Pour around 1oz of EL-101 Oyster Shell, EL-129 Slate and S-2718 Cosmic Black onto the palette.
Dip the Soft Fan into EL-101 Oyster Shell and gently “pat” the glaze randomly onto the vase. You should cover around 1/3 of the surface.
Repeat with the same brush and EL-129 Slate. Be sure to go over some of the glaze from Step #7.
Repeat with the same brush and S-2718 Cosmic Black. Be sure to go over some of the glaze from Steps #7 and #8.
Repeat with the same brush and EL-101 Oyster Shell, just in a few spots.
Using the 1oz bottle with PC-601 Clear Cascade, apply a continuous line going from the top of the vase to the bottom. The less perfect, the better.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper over the front of the tray. Trace the pattern using the pencil.
Using the Round Brush with EZ 018 Chartreuse, EZ 023 Midnight Blue, EZ 026 Yellow Orange, EZ 030 Rose, EZ 058 Poppy Orange and EZ 075 Passion Red apply 1 coat to the flowers as pictured.
Using the Round Brush with EZ 027 Navajo Turquoise, EZ 028 Leaf Green and EZ 032 Peacock Green, apply 1 coat to the leaves as pictured.
Using the Detail Liner with EZ 037 Black, loosely outline the flowers and leaves. Add decorative lines and dots.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 2 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the script liner to load a brush with EZ-018 Chartreuse. Dip the tip in the EZ-027 Blue Turquoise. Apply by pressing the brush down onto the bisque and as you pull back, raise and twist the brush away from the bisque to create a tear drop shaped brush stroke.
Repeat as desired until design is filled in. It can be helpful to keep the design close to the top lip of the mug (see step #8).
Use the mini liner loaded with EZ-012 Cobalt Jet Black to outline the design. Once it is outlined, add the detail lines and thicken the outline.
Add dots of EZ-013 White as you please.
Once dry, use a script liner to apply SW-001 Stoneware Clear over the design.
Use a script liner to glaze around the design with 3 coats of SW-255 Gray Opal. Apply using a variety of brush strokes to prevent streaks. If the Gray Opal is applied heavily above the design, it may sag down. Applying you design closer to the top lip of the piece can help prevent this.
Use a soft fan to apply 3 coats of SW-508 Black Gloss to the inside and handle.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Fire to cone 5/6. (Sample was fired to cone 6)
Form
SB-135Carmen Mug
Colors
EZ-018Chartreuse
EZ-027 Blue Turquoise
EZ-012 Cobalt Jet Black
EZ-013 White
SW-255 Gray Opal
SW-508 Black Gloss
Decorating Accessories
RB-144 #4 Soft Fan
CB-106 #6 Script Liner
CB-110 #10/0 Mini Liner
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sponge
Water
Duncan|Mid-Range|Stoneware Bisque
874|407|411
36109
“Spin, Drop, and Coat” Wash and Flux Trailing Bowl
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Fill an AC-223 Large Writer Tip kit with SW-401 Light Flux. Apply 2 bands of Flux around the edges of the rim.
Once the Flux is Dry, apply 2 coats of SW-305 Cobalt Wash dots on the bands of Flux using an eye dropper.
Once all of the trailing has dried, use a fan brush to apply 2 coats of SW-129 Copper Float to the inside and rim of the bowl. Apply 3 coats to the outside avoiding the foot.
Use a soft fan to apply 2 coats of SW-179 Muddy Waters to the inside and rim of the bowl.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Trace on the pattern using the AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper.
Thin all the EZ Stroke colors to a light cream consistency using water or AC-957 Thin N Shade.
Using the CB-404 # 4 Pointed Round, apply 1 coat of EZ026 Yellow Orange to the center tulip.
Using the CB-404 # 4 Pointed Round, side load in EZ058 Poppy Orange and shade the petals.
Using the CB-404 # 4 Pointed Round, apply 1 coat of EZ030 Rose to the tulip on the left.
Using the CB-404 # 4 Pointed Round, side load in EZ075 Passion Red and shade the petals.
Using the CB-404 # 4 Pointed Round, apply 1 coat of EZ013 White to the tulip on the right.
Using the CB-404 # 4 Pointed Round, side load in EZ050 Plum Purple and shade the petals.
Using the CB-404 # 4 Pointed Round, apply 1 coat of EZ028 Leaf Green to the leaves.
Using the CB-404 # 4 Pointed Round, side load in EZ033 Ivy Green and shade the leaves and apply 1 coat to the stems.
Using the CB-110 #10/0 Mini Liner, outline and detail the design with SG-401 Designer Liner Black.
Using both the CB-106 # 6 Script Liner and CB-604 # 4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of SW-110 Oyster to the rim and back, excluding the foot area and recessed area on the bottom as Stoneware needs to be fired dry-footed, never stilted.
Using the CB-106 # 6 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SW-001 Clear to the center area of the plate.
Place on a well kiln washed shelf and fire to shelf cone 6.
Trace on the pattern using the AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper.
Thin all the EZ Stroke colors to a light cream consistency using water or AC957 Thin N Shade.
Using the CB-404 # 4 Pointed Round, apply 1 coat of EZ075 Passion Red to the strawberries.
Using the CB-404 # 4 Pointed Round, side load in EZ018 Chartreuse and shade the edges of the strawberries.
Using the CB-404 # 4 Pointed Round, apply 1 coat of EZ028 Leaf Green to the leaves.
Using the CB-404 # 4 Pointed Round, side load in EZ033 Ivy Green and shade the leaves.
Using the CB-106 # 6 Script Liner, load in EZ033 Ivy Green and add the caps and stems.
Using the CB-404 # 4 Pointed Round, apply 1 coat of EZ002 Cinderella Pink to the petals.
Using the Round, apply 1 coat of EZ026 Yellow Orange to the flower centers.
Using the CB-106 # 6 Script Liner, apply 1 coat of EZ023 Midnight Blue to the grid and filler designs.
Using the CB-106 # 6 Script Liner, outline and detail the design with SG-401 Designer Liner Black.
Using both the CB-106 # 6 Script Liner and CB-604 # 4 Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of SW-504 Red to the rim and back, excluding the foot area and recessed and on the bottom.
Using the Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of SW-001 Clear to the center area of the plate.
Place on a well kiln washed shelf and fire to shelf cone 6.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the pencil to draw a line around the bottom of the hat and the ends of the sleeves. This will be where the white “trim” meets the red “fabric”.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to the “trim”, gloves and beard. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-74 Hot Tamale, apply 3 coats to the hat, coat and pants. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-20 Cashew Later, apply 2 coats to the nose. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the boots. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using SG-401 Black, outline the facets on the gloves and nose. Outline between areas of different color.
Dip into NT-CLR Clear Dipping Glaze.
Fire to cone 06.
Use the hot glue gun to glue the white pom-pop to the tip of the hat.
Reindeer:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the pencil to draw a line ¼” above the hooves. This will be the white area between the hooves and fur. Also sketch the pupils of the eyes.
Using the Script Liner with SC-86 Old Lace, apply 2 coats to inside of the ears, outside of the tail, muzzle, chest and area above the hooves. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-25 Crackerjack Brown, apply 3 coats to the fur Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-74 Hot Tamale, apply 2 coats to the nose. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the hooves and pupils. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using SG-401 Black, outline the facets on the white areas and nose.
Dip into NT-CLR Clear Dipping Glaze.
Fire to cone 06.
Use the scissors to cut two 1-inch pieces from the pipe cleaner. Fold each piece in half. Hot glue (cut side facing down) to the top of the head. You can also make large antlers if desired
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use a soft fan to apply 3 coats of SW-140 Black Matte to the bottom section and handle of the mug. Avoiding the foot.
Use a soft fan to apply 2 coats of SW-253 Green Opal to the top section and inside of the mug.
Use a soft fan to apply 2 coats of SW-146 Aurora Green to the top section and inside of the mug. Be sure to load it really well with crystals! These are what create the beautiful movement and variation in the combination.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the SG-401 Designer Liner to create the design around the lip of the mug. Using a pencil to create even sections is very helpful for creating an even pattern!
Once the Designer Liner is completely dry, apply 3 coats of SW-250 White Opal to the outside of the mug, avoiding the foot and handle.
Use a soft fan to apply 2 coats of SW-2165 Lavender Mist to the outside of the mug.
Use a soft fan and script liner to apply 3 coats of SW-140 Black Matte to the inside and handle of the mug.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Fire to cone 5/6. (Sample was fired to cone 6)
Form
SB-135Carmen Mug
Colors
SW-140 Black Matte
SW-165 Lavender Mist
SW-250 White Opal
SG-401 Black Designer Liner
Decorating Accessories
RB-144 #4 Soft Fan
CB-106 #6 Script Liner
Miscellaneous Accessories
Sponge
Water
Mid-Range|Stoneware Bisque
407|411
36114
“Spin, Drop and Coat” Stroke & Coat and Flux Trailing Bowl
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Replace the SC-10 Teal Next Time cap with an AC-224 Plastic Detailer Cap and trail along the top edge of the bowl, creating a series of “w”s. We applied 2 rows.
Fill an AC-223 Large Writer Tip kit with SW-401 Light Flux. Apply dots of Flux inside of the “w”s from the SC.
Allow the glaze to dry from steps 3 and 4 and repeat!
Once all of the trailing has dried, use a fan brush to apply 2 coats of SW-253 Green Opal to the inside of the bowl.
Use a soft fan to apply 2 coats of SW-110 Oyster to the inside of the bowl and 3 coats to the outside, avoiding the foot.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour around 1/2 cup of EL-107 Amber Ash into the disposable cup. Thin with water until it is easily poured. Pour into the vase and rotate until the inside is covered. Pour out the excess.
Pour around 1 TBS of SW-303 Manganese Wash onto the palette. Dip the sponge on a stick into the wash and sponge the stamp. Press the stamp onto the top half of the vase, 1 face at a time. Repeat until all 8 faces are stamped.
Using the Soft Fan with SW-303 Manganese Wash, apply 2 coats to the bottom half of the vase. Allow wash to dry between coats. Dip the regular sponge in the wash and sponge over where the brushed area meets the stamped area. You don’t have to do that if you would rather have a straight line between the 2 areas.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-107 Amber Ash, apply 2 coats to the upper 2/3 of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Dip the regular sponge into the glaze and sponge over the bottom of the glazed area. You don’t have to do that if you would rather have a straight line.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-121 Copper Adventurine, apply 3 coats to the outside of the bowl. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-121 Copper Adventurine, apply 3 coats to the inside of the bowl.
Take the two AC-220 Detailer Tips and 1 oz Bottles and cut the ends off of the tips. Fill one bottle with PC-601 Clear Cascade. Fill the other bottle with SC-96 Aqu-ward. Screw the tips back on the bottles.
Use the bottle with PC-601 Clear Cascade to make a scalloped line going around the inner edge of the bowl. It should be around 1 inch down from the edge. The points should be facing up, like below:
Use the same bottle to make a large dot between each of the points on the upper side of the scalloped line.
Use the bottle with SC-96 Aqu-ward to make a large dot directly on top of the dot from the previous step.
Allow glaze to dry.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-121 Copper Adventurine, apply 1 coat to the inside of the bowl.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-140 Toasted Almond, apply 1 coat to the upper half of the inside of the bowl.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the pencil to sketch a sweater on the yeti.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-96 Aqu-ward, apply 2 coats to the fur on the yeti. Do not glaze where the sweater will be located. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-9 Jaded, apply 3 coats to the face, hands and feet. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil to draw the eyes.
Using the Script Liner with SC-10 Teal Next Time, apply 2 coats to the irises of the eyes and the toenails. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-73 Candy Apple Red, apply 2 coats to the nose. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-42 Butter Me Up, apply 2 coats to the teeth and horns. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner and Soft Fan with SC-73 Candy Apple Red, apply 2 coats to the sweater. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil to draw a line going around the yeti for the lights.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-10 Teal Next Time, apply a thick line over the pencil line.
Squeeze around 1 TSP of SC-27 Sour Apple, SC-42 Butter Me Up and SC-73 Candy Apple Red on to the palette. Dip the Script Liner into each color and dab onto the line for the lights. Repeat until the line has lights going all of the way from start to finish.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-704 Speckta-Clear Peppermint, apply 1 coat to the entire yeti, avoiding the face and feet and hands. You can apply all over if you prefer.
Fire to cone 06.
Mug:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place the pattern on the mug. Slide AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern. Trace with the pencil.
Use the pencil to sketch a hat and scarf on the yeti.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to the “fur” on the hat, eyes and scarf. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-42 Butter Me Up, apply 2 coats to the teeth and horns. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-96 Aqu-ward, apply 3 coats to the fur on the yeti. Do not glaze where the scarf will be located. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-9 Jaded, apply 3 coats to the face, hands and feet. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil to draw the eyes.
Using the Script Liner with SC-10 Teal Next Time, apply 2 coats to the irises of the eyes and the toenails. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-73 Candy Apple Red, apply 2 coats to the nose and hat. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Use the Detail Liner to make stripes on the scarf.
Using the Script Liner with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 2 coats to the trees on either side of the yeti. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-10 Teal Next Time, apply 2 coats to the last tree. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the yeti, trees and lettering.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-73 Candy Apple Red, apply 1 coat to the lines around “for”.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-27 Sour Apply, apply 2 coats to the inside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-704 Speckta-Clear Peppermint, apply 1 coat to the entire mug, avoiding the yeti. You can apply all over if you prefer.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use a soft fan to apply 3 coats of SW-140 Black Matte to the entire plate, avoiding the foot.
Once the glaze is completely dry, transfer the pattern onto the platter using a pen and AC-230 Clay Carbon Transfer Paper.
Using the Detail Liner with AC-302 Wax Resist, apply 1 coat over the lines of the pattern.
Mix the Stoneware Gloss glazes to create some browns. We used a scale to ensure accurate measurements and consistent colors. For a darker brown (SC-34), mix 3 parts SW-504 Red Gloss with 1 part SW-509 Dark Green Gloss. For the lighter brown (SC-25), mix 1 part of SW-504 Red Gloss, with 3 parts of SW-507 Bright Green Gloss. And for a medium brown (SC-48), mix these two together. (The SC #s are on the pattern because this is a low-fire project that has been converted for Stoneware! Do not use the SC colors here, use the Gloss mixtures)
Use a CB-106 Script Liner to glob a thick, puddle like, coat of glaze onto the corresponding sections of the tray. Work in sections. Glaze approximately 1/3 of the tray and move to the next step. Refer to the patterns for color placement. NOTE: If the glaze is too heavy, it will crawl. If it is too light, you will not achieve the batik look.
Use a hair dryer on low to force dry the top layer (skin) of the glaze. Make sure not to put the hair dryer too close while it is wet or it will move the glaze. Dry until you see cracking in the skin.
Repeat steps 7 & 8 until the entire pattern is glazed. Work in sections to prevent the glaze from drying prematurely, which will cause less cracks.
Using the Script Liner with SW-117 Honeycomb, apply 2 coats to the background. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply a 3rd coat, but only in the center of each background section.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Turn the bowl upside down and drill a hole with the ¼” carbide bit through the center of the bottom. Wipe away any dust with the damp sponge.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 3 coats of SW-504 Red Gloss to the inside of the bowl and to the top of the rim.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 coats of SW-501 White Gloss to the outside of the bowl. Don’t glaze the bottom or the foot. Let dry completely.
Turn the bowl upside down. Using the carbon paper and a pencil, trace the pattern onto the bowl.
Using the CB-604 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SW-504 Red Gloss to the ribbon, the lips, and around the outside of the foot.
Using the CB-604 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SW-509 Dark Green Gloss to the leaves of the mistletoe.
Fill an AC-219 Designer Bottle with Writer Tip with SW-508 Black Gloss. Outline the design and use it to write ‘PUCKER UP’ on the lips. Retrace the letters onto the lips if desired.
Fill an AC-219 Designer Bottle with Writer Tip with SW-501 White Gloss. Add highlights to the leaves, ribbon, letters and lips, using the photo as a guide.
Do not stilt or hang over the edge of the kiln shelf.
Fire to cone 5/6.
Cut a 12” piece of string or cord. Fold it in half and make a knot about half way down, forming a loop. Thread the loop through the hole through the inside of the bowl. If your knot is too small and slips up through the hole, double knot it or tie it around a bead, washer or something similar. Tie another knot to keep it from slipping back out of the hole. Use the strings that are hanging down inside the bowl to attach your piece of mistletoe.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 3 coats of SW-108 Green Tea to the inside and to the bottom half of the outside of the bowl. The edge where the glaze ends doesn’t need to be straight. The more jagged it is, the more random and flowy the glaze will look when it’s fired. Do not glaze the bottom or foot of the bowl.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 coats of SW-144 Lava Rock on top of the Green Tea inside and to the bottom half of the outside of the bowl.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 coats of SW-180 Desert Dusk on the top half of the outside of the bowl.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 coats of SW-112 Tiger Eye on top of the Desert Dusk on the top half of the outside of the bowl.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 1 or 2 coats of SW-401 Light Flux to the top 1” of the inside of the bowl up to and including the rim, and in a one-inch strip over where the two colors meet on the outside of the bowl. The flux can be thicker inside the bowl, but shouldn’t be too thick on the outside so it doesn’t run off the bowl. Two thin coats or one thicker coat is enough.
Using the CB-604 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC-10 Teal Next Time onto the top 1/3 of flux on the inside and outside of the bowl. See pattern for details.
Using the CB-604 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC-75 Orange-Peel to the center third of the flux and SC-11 Blue Yonder to the bottom 1/3 of the flux on the inside and outside of the bowl.
Do not stilt or hang over the edge of the kiln shelf.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 coats of FN-010 Tree Green to the outside of the Jolly Tree.
Using the CB-404 #4 Pointed Round brush, apply one thick coat of FN-054 Pistachio to the flat parts of the front of the tree, using individual strokes to give the appearance of branches. Load the brush and push down with it onto the tree so that the glaze is thicker on the sides and thinner in the middle of the stroke. They should look streaky. Don’t apply these to the curly parts of the tree. See pattern for more details. Let dry completely.
Using a pencil and the clay carbon paper, trace the pattern onto the front of the tree.
Using the CB-404 #4 Pointed Round brush, apply two coats of SC-23 Jack O’ Lantern to the cat except for his belly and his eyes.
Using the CB-404 #4 Pointed Round brush, apply two coats of SC-16 Cotton Tail to the cat’s belly and his eyes.
Using the CB-404 #4 Pointed Round brush, apply two coats of SC-74 Hot Tamale to make random small circles on the front of the tree for ornaments. Repeat with SC-97 Cantelope, SC-11 Blue Yonder, and SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue.
Fill the AC-219 Designer Bottle with Writer Tip with SC-15 Tuxedo. Outline the cat and the ornaments, and draw in his facial features.
Fill the AC-219 Designer Bottle with Writer Tip with SC-16 Cotton Tail. Add highlights to the ornaments and add small dots all over the front of the tree.
Fill the AC-219 Designer Bottle with Writer Tip with SC-75 Orange-A-Peel and draw in the stripes on the cat according to the photo.
Using the CB-110 Mini Liner Brush, fill in the cat’s nose and ear with SC-95 Pinkie Swear.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 coats of CR-931 Appletini to the rest of the tree around the flat area of the front where the design is painted.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
After the glaze is dry to the touch, place the pattern on the front of the plate and trace with the pencil.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-9 Jaded, SC-8 Just Froggy, SC-27 Sour Apple, SC-77 Glo-Worm, SC-92 Café Ole and SC-96 Aqu-ward, apply 2 coats to the corresponding section of the pattern. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the tree, add lines to the star and trunk and outline the lights.
Replace the cap on SC-74 Hot Tamale with AC-224 Plastic Detailer Cap. Squeeze dots along the line for lights.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-74 Hot Tamale, apply 3 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use a soft fan to apply 3 coats of SW-141 White Matte to the inside of the bowl/outside of the mug (avoiding the rim).
Use a palette knife to mix the AC-310 Silkscreen Medium with each underglaze color until it is the thickness of peanut butter. Use your finger to apply the thickened mixture through the leaf screen. You can use the screen repeatedly for the same color, but be sure to rinse and thoroughly dry between colors.
Use a fan and liner brush to apply 3 coats of SW-203 Root Beer to the inside/back and rim; avoiding the foot.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
On the DSS-0160 Vintage Holiday screen, locate the three ornaments. Draw an outline around them in permanent marker. Cut them out with excess screen around the edges.
Squeeze around 1 TBS of SC-36 Irish Luck and SC-87 Ruby Slippers onto the palette (in separate areas). Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium to each. Mix with a palette knife until they become the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or glaze.
Place the screens on the tray one at a time. While holding the screen firmly in place, take a small amount of premixed silkscreen medium (either the red or the green), and gently rub in circles starting in the center and working outward.
Repeat step #4 until the tray is covered in ornaments.
Use SG-403 Red, SG-405 Green and SG-409 Bright Green to add lines and dots to the ornaments. You can also add bows to the tops of the ornaments.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-87 Ruby Slippers, apply 3 coats to the back of the tray. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-704 Speckta-Clear Peppermint, apply 2 coats to the front of the tray. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
On the DSS-0160 Vintage Holiday screen, locate the three ornaments. Draw an outline around them in permanent marker. Cut them out with excess screen around the edges.
Squeeze around 1 TBS of SC-15 Tuxedo onto the palette. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more silkscreen medium or glaze.
Place the screens on the tray one at a time. While holding the screen firmly in place, take a small amount of premixed silkscreen medium, and gently rub in circles starting in the center and working outward.
Repeat step #4 until you have a line of ornaments across the flat portion of the tray.
Using the Script Liner and Detail Liner with SC-28 Blue Isle, SC-88 Tu Tu Tango and SC-92 Café Ole, apply 2 coats to different areas of the ornaments. If you would like any areas white, do not glaze. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner and Soft Fan with SC-37 Ivory Tower, apply 2 coats to the background. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze around 1 TBS of SC-92 Café Ole onto the palette. Dip the sponge on a stick in to the glaze and sponge ST-129 Mini Fern stamp. Press onto the background. Repeat until the background is covered.
Using FD 254 Black Licorice, outline the ornaments and make bows on top. Make a scalloped edge and dots going around the border.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the back of the tray. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 1 coats of FN-001 White to the canvas. Allow to dry!
Print 2 copies of the pattern. Line up the 2 copies of the pattern and cut around the pattern. Set 1 pattern aside.
Line up the pattern on the piece. Lift up one of the corners of the pattern. With a Soft Fan Brush wet the canvas with water and immediately lay the pattern back down. Continue to the other side. Make sure there was water under the pattern. Now take a paper towel flat on the piece and press to absorb any excess water.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, Apply 3 coats of FN-031 Big Blue Sky to the piece brushing from the pattern out. This helps prevent the glaze from going under the patter.
Using an old Tooth Brush, splatter the piece with SC-16 Cotton Tail.
Remove the pattern.
Place the second copy of the pattern in place with a sheet of AC-203 Clay Carbon Paper under it and trace the pattern onto the piece.
Using a CB-404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 3 coats of SC-20 Cashew Later to Santa’s face.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC-46 Raw Hide to the Reindeer antlers.
Using a CB-404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 3 coats of SC-41 Brown Cow the reindeers body and 3 coats of SC-14 Java Bean to the inside of the ears and the bottom of the hove.
Using a CB-404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 3 coats of SC-87 Ruby Slippers to the left side of the Santa hat, 3 coats of SC-74 Hot Tamale to the center section and 3 coats of SC-73 Candy apple Red to the right section.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC-74 to Santa’s nose, mittens and the nose on Rudolf.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, shade the antlers with SC-42 Brown Cow. Shade all Red areas with SC-81 Cinnamon Stix.
Using a CB-202 #2 apply 2 -3 coats of SC-16 Cotton Tail to the eye areas. Apply 2 coats of SC-15 Tuxedo to the eyes then add a Highlight with SC-16 Cotton Tail. Also add white highlights to the noses and Santa mittens.
Using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, outline with SG-406 Designer Liner Brown.
Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 1 coat of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing Glaze to the ball and trim of Santa’s hat. Allow to dry!
Apply 2 – 3 coats of SG-302 Snowfall to the ball and trim of Santa’s hat and 2 coats to the tips of the antlers.
Punch out some snowflakes creating a stencil. Attach to the piece with water under the paper, blot with a paper towel. Apply 2 -3 coats of SC-16 Cotton Tail. Remove the stencil before the color dries.
Optional: You can apply add the Merry Christmas by tracing the pattern on with AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper and then apply 2 coats of SC-8 Just Froggy with a CB-110 #10 Liner. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze around 1 TBS of SP-211 Speckled Blue Yonder, SP-216 Speckled Cotton Tail and SP-245 Speckled My Blue Heaven onto the palette. Dip the Soft Fan into SP-211 Speckled Blue Yonder and apply 1 coat to the bottom 1/3 of the hat. While that glaze is still wet, dip the same brush into SP-245 Speckled My Blue Heaven, blend with the edge and glaze up to the top 1/3 of the hat. While that glaze is still wet, dip the same brush into SP-216 Speckled Cotton Tail, blend with the edge and glaze up to the top. Repeat.
Pour about 2 TBS of NT-BR Clear One Brushing onto the palette. Add a pinch of AC-310 Silkscreen Medium. Mix with a palette knife until it becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You may need to add more Silkscreen Medium or glaze. Add a drop of food color and mix.
On the DSS-0158 Buggin’ Out screen, locate the butterfly. On the DSS-0159 Gnomeland screen, locate the leaves. On the DSS-0161 Woodland Critters screen locate the 2 birds. Draw an outline around them in permanent marker. Cut them out with excess screen around the edges.
Place the butterfly towards the top of Lindy’s hat (shiny side down). While holding it firmly in place, take a small amount of premixed Silkscreen Medium, and gently rub in circles starting in the center and working outward. Slowly pull up the screen to avoid smearing. Repeat with the leaves.
Place one bird at the top of Lars’ hat. While holding it firmly in place, take a small amount of premixed Silkscreen Medium, and gently rub in circles starting in the center and working outward. Slowly pull up the screen to avoid smearing. Repeat with the other bird and leaves.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-11 Blue Yonder, SC-27 Sour Apple, SC-45 My Blue Heaven and SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 2 coats to the corresponding sections of the screens. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze around 1 TBS of SC-15 Tuxedo and SC-34 Down to Earth onto the palette. Thin them both with around 1 TSP of water. Apply 1 coat of thinned SC-15 Tuxedo to Lars’ beard. Apply 1 coat of thinned SC-34 Down to Earth to Lindy’s hair. Use a damp sponge to wipe off most of the glaze, leaving it only in the crevices.
Using the Scrip Liner with SC-46 Rawhide, apply 2 coats to their noses. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to Lars’ beard. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 2 coats to Lindy’s hair. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner and Soft Fan with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 1 coat to Lars’ body. Apply a second coat and shade with SC-97 Cant-elope. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner and Soft Fan with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 1 coat to Lindy’s body. Apply a second coat and shade with SC-26 Green Thumb. Apply 2 coats to Lars’ gloves. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 2 coats to Lindy’s gloves. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use a pencil to sketch a few mushrooms going around the bottom of Lars’ body. Using the Script Liner with SC-73 Candy Apple Red, apply 2 coats to the tops of the mushrooms. Using the Script Liner with SC-46 Rawhide, apply 2 coats to the base of the mushrooms. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze around 1 TSP SC-16 Cotton Tail onto the palette. Dip the end of the bush in the glaze press on the tops of the mushrooms to make dots.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the designs on the hats. Outline the details on their bodies and add dot/lines going around Lindy’s dress and cuffs.
Using the Soft Fan with NT-BR Clear One Brushing, apply 1 coat over each gnome.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze around 1 TBS of SG-401 Black onto the palette. Thin with around 1 TSP of water. Apply 1 coat of thinned SG-401 Black to Lars and Lindy (not on hats). Use a damp sponge to wipe off most of the glaze, leaving it only in the crevices.
Using the Soft Fan with CG-999 Jazz Notes, apply 1 coat to Lindy’s hat.
Using the Soft Fan with CG-998 Pink Pixie, apply 1 coat to Lars’ hat.
Use the scissors to cut the tip off of AC-220 Detailer Tip. Pour around 1oz of PC-602 White Cascade into the 1oz Bottle. Screw the tip onto the bottle. Squeeze PC-602 White Cascades onto their hats, going in a circle motion. There should be a spiral of glaze going down their hats. Let glaze dry.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-150 Fern, apply 2 coats to Lars’ hat. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-151 Deep Water, apply 2 coats to Lindy’s hat. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with EL-125 Sahara Sands, apply 2 coats to their noses and hands. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with EL-101 Oyster Shell, apply 2 coats to Lars’ beard. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with EL-128 Wheat, apply 2 coats to Lindy’s hair. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with EL-129 Slate, apply 2 coats to Lars’ body. Apply a 3rd coat to the inner sections of his body only. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with EL-127 Rose Granite, apply 2 coats to Lindy’s body. Apply a 3rd coat to the inner sections of her body only. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust
Squeeze around 1 TBS of SC-15 Tuxedo onto the palette. Thin with around 1 TSP of water. Apply 1 coat of thinned SC-15 Tuxedo to Lars and Lindy (not on hats). Use a damp sponge to wipe off most of the glaze, leaving it only in the crevices.
Using the Script Liner with SC-60 Silver Lining, apply 2 coats to Lars’ beard. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 2 coats to their noses and hands. Apply 2 coats to the pumpkin stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, apply 2 coats to Lindy’s braids and Lars’ body. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using Script Liner and Soft Fan with SC-13 Grapel, apply 2 coats to Lindy’s body. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use the pencil to draw or trace Halloween silhouettes on their bodies – spiders, bats, cats, skulls, etc.
Use the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo to outline and fill in the Halloween designs. Outline the details on their bodies. Make a dot on Lindy’s nose for a wart.
Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the underside of their hats. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 3 coats to Lindy’s hat and the body of the pumpkin. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze around 1 TBS of SC-13 Grapel, SC-27 Sour Apple and SC-75 Orange-A-Peel onto the palette. Dip the Soft Fan in SC-13 Grapel and apply 1 coat around the bottom 1/3rd of the Lar’s hat. Dip the same brush into SC-27 Sour Apple and shade with the edge of the previous color. Then apply 1 coat to the middle 1/3rd of the hat. Dip the same brush into SC-75 Orange-A-Peel and shade with the edge of the previous color. Then apply 1 coat to the top 1/3rd of the hat. Repeat for a total of 3 coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-201 Black Cobblestone, apply 1 coat to Lar’s hat. As soon as that coat loses its shine, apply a second coat to the bottom 2/3rd of the hat. As soon as that coat loses its shine, apply a third coat to the bottom 1/3rd of the hat.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-202 White Cobblestone, apply 1 coat to Lindy’s hat. As soon as that coat loses its shine, apply a second coat to the bottom 2/3rd of the hat. As soon as that coat loses its shine, apply a third coat to the bottom 1/3rd of the hat.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-202 White Cobblestone, apply 1 coat to the body of the pumpkin. As soon as that coat loses its shine, apply a second coat.
Squeeze around 1 TBS of SC-13 Grapel, SC-27 Sour Apple and SC-75 Orange-A-Peel onto the palette. Dip the Soft Fan in SC-75 Orange-A-Peel and apply 1 coat around the bottom 1/3rd of Lindy’s hat and the body of the pumpkin. Dip the same brush into SC-13 Grapel and shade with the edge of the previous color. Then apply 1 coat to the middle 1/3rd of the hat. Dip the same brush into SC-27 Sour Apple and shade with the edge of the previous color. Then apply 1 coat to the top 1/3rd of the hat.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Position the pattern on top of the platter. Slide AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern. Trace the pattern with a pencil.
Using the Script Liner with SC-7 Leapin’ Lizard, SC-8 Just Froggy, SC-23 Jack O’ Lantern, SC-96 Aqu-ward, SP-209 Speckled Jaded, SP-227 Speckled Sour Apple, apply 2 coats to the corresponding section of the design. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Refer to the pattern.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the noses, faces and smiles. Add dots for the eyes.
Using FD-258 Pure White, outline the hat and scarves. Add decorative lines, dots and snowflakes.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-118 Blue Grotto, apply 2 coats to the tree. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Mix CG-996 Spring Rain, CG-1001 Gogh Iris and CG-974 Bloomin’ Blue with the palette knife. Pour around 2 oz of each glaze onto the palette. Keep them separate.
Using the Soft Fan with CG-996 Spring Rain, apply 1 coat to the top 1/3rd of the tree.
Dip the same brush into CG-1001 Gogh Iris and blend with the bottom of the previous coat. Then glaze the middle 1/3rd of the tree.
Dip the same brush into CG-974 Bloomin’ Blue and blend with the bottom of the previous coat. Then glaze the bottom 1/3rd of the tree.
Cast the molds in usual manner. Allow greenware to dry! Clean the greenware with a Clean-Up Tool.
Bisque fire to cone 04.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
CD041 Waving Gnome
Using a Basecoat Brush, basecoat the coat with 1 – 2 coats of SS-57 Accent Green. Basecoat the hat, gloves, shoes and beard with SS-24 Chocolate Fudge. Allow to dry!
Using various size drybrushes, drybrush as follows – Coat: SS-276 Forest Green then OS-487 Olive Green followed by OS-466 Avocado. Highlight with SS-19 Country Sage.
Drybrush the hat, gloves and shoes with SS-234 Medium Mocha then OS-571 Curry. Highlight lightly with SS-3 Honey Toast.
Drybrush the beard with SS2345 Medium Mocha then OS-567 Ash followed by OS-474 Grey. Highlight with SS-130 Medium Gray then SS-135 White.
Basecoat the nose with SS-234 Medium Mocha then shade with SS-24 Chocolate Fudge.
Shade/float around the coat with SS-57 Accent Green to deepen the crevices.
Add scallops around the edge of the hat using a Shader Brush and SS-24 Chocolate Fudge.
CD042 Hands Up Gnome
Basecoat the hat, coat and gloves with OS-586 Ultramarine.
Drybrush the hat, coat and gloves with OS-468 Deep Turquoise then SS-317 Turquoise then OS-469 Light Turquoise. Highlight only the hat and gloves with SS-135 White.
Basecoat the beard with SS-130 Medium Gray. Drybrush with OS-500 Snowcloud Grey then highlight with SS-135 White.
Basecoat the nose with SS-192 Light Taupe, shade with SS-183 Rich Peach.
Basecoat the Shoes with SS-138 Flat Black then highlight with a little SS-135 White in the brush.
CD043 Hands on Hip Gnome
Basecoat the hat and gloves with 1 – 2 coats of OS-480 Garnet.
Drybrush the hat, and gloves with SS-179 Antique Red then SS-176 Christmas Red. Highlight with OS-449 Bright Red.
Basecoat the coat and shoes with SS-138 Flat Black.
Drybrush with OS-475 Charcoal then OS-567 Ash. Highlight with SS-130 Medium Gray.
Basecoat the beard with OS-475 Charcoal. Drybrush with SS-130 Medium Gray followed by OS-500 Snowcloud Grey. Highlight the beard with SS-135 White. Highlight the Shoes with SS-130 Medium Gray.
Basecoat the nose with SS-1278 Medium Portrait. Shade with SS-234 Medium Mocha.
Add various size dots on the Hat with SS-138 Flat Black. Allow to dry!
Using Graphite Transfer Paper, trace the daisy pattern on the hat. Basecoat the flower petals with SS-130 Medium Gray to block out the red and black. Then basecoat with SS-135 White. Shade the petals with OS-469 Light Turquoise. Add dots of Shade lightly with SS-234 Medium Mocha. Basecoat the leaves with SS-19 Country Sage then shade with SS-57 Accent Green.
Finishing All Gnomes
Using a Soft Brush, apply 2 coats of AC-502 Matte Brush-On Sealer to each gnome. Allow to dry between each coat. Then apply 2 coats of AC-501 Gloss Brush-On Sealer the all shoes and noses.
Squeeze around 1 TBS of SC-15 Tuxedo onto the palette. Thin with around 1/2 TSP of water. Using the Soft Fan, brush 1 coat over the entire piece.
Using a damp sponge, wipe most of the glaze off, leaving it only in the crevices.
Using the Script Liner with SC-54 Vanilla Dip, apply 2 coats to the antlers. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-60 Silver Lining, apply 2 coats to the sweater. Shade the edges and creases with SC-3 Gray Hare. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 2 coats to the scarf. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, make vertical stripes on the scarf.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-26 Green Thumb, make vertical lines between the white lines. Use the Script Liner to apply 2 coats to the fringe. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-74 Hot Tamale, make vertical lines going through the white stripes. Then make a horizonal line going down the scarf.
Using the Script Liner with SC-54 Vanilla Dip, apply 1 coat to the inside of the ear and shade the edges with SC-48 Camel Back. Repeat for a second coat.
Using the Script Liner with SC-54 Vanilla Dip, apply 1 coat to the muzzle and shade the edges with SC-48 Camel back. Continue with SC-48 Camel Back on the rest of the head, ears and legs. Repeat for the 2nd
Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the hooves. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze around 1 TSP SC-2 Melon-Choly onto the palette. Dip the sponge in the glaze and sponge inside the ears and on the muzzle. Use the Script Liner to apply 2 coats to the nose. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner and Soft Fan with SP-274 Speckled Hot Tamale, apply 2 coats to the hat. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Check out the video at the bottom of this page to learn how to create this project!
Begin with a properly fired bisque. Use a damp sponge to remove any dust.
Using the tape, build a wall around the canvas to trap the paints from pouring off the side.
Fill pouring cup with SC-15 Tuxedo, SC-16 Cotton Tail, SC-11 Blue Yoder, SC-26 Green Thumb, and SC-6 Sunkissed.
Begin pouring the glazes over the canvas and move the pouring cup around to fill the canvas.
Using the mister bottle, mist the areas that are empty of glazes then tilt to fill all the way to the edge of the canvas.
Remove one side of tape and mist the edge to help the glaze fall as you tilt to cover the edge with glaze. You can use a Xiem brush to help full in the edges. Continue with the same technique on the other edges pulling the tape off one edge at a time.
Fire to cone 05.
Tips:
You can use Stroke & Coat or Foundations
You have to thin Stroke & Coat by 15% (15 mL – 100 mL)
Foundations is already thin enough to produce nearly identically results
Can use small plastic cups and layer glaze inside the cup instead of using pre-made pouring cups
If you are using hand built pieces, you will need to leave space for gases to escape
You can glaze the piece before you pour so there is glaze already there incase you miss a spot
Higher firing temperatures tend to burn out the colors
Spraying the sides while the tape is still intact helps with flowing glaze over the side
The longer you stay in one area pouring glaze the finer the lines you’ll get
If you have small empty gaps you can mist them or use a brush and dab the glaze to fill the spot
This technique can be done on greenware to shorten the firing process
Choosing monochromatic, analogous or other compatible color combinations will keep from creating muddy neutrals in your pour
It takes just under 4 ounces of glaze to cover an 8″x10” clay canvas (use this when deciding how much glaze you will need)
Do not force dry. It will cause cracks
You can twice fire pieces to correct issues if necessary
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply MC-002 12mm Low Track Masking Tape over the holes in the branches of the cactus. Leave the large center hole open.
Pour around ¼ cup of EL-103 Sea Spray into the disposable cup. Thin with water until it is easily poured. Pour into the top of the cactus and rotate until the inside is covered. Pour out the excess. Remove the tape.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-103 Sea Spray, apply 2 coats to the outside of the cactus. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Pour around 1 TBS of PC-602 White Cascade onto the palette. Dip the Soft Fan into the glaze and randomly “glob” the glaze onto the cactus. Repeat until around ¼ of the cactus is covered. Allow glaze to dry.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-208 Moss Creek, apply 2 coats to the outside of the cactus. Recede the final coat to prevent dripping. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Pour around 1 TBS of PC-601 Clear Cascade onto the palette. Dip the Soft Fan into the glaze and randomly “glob” the glaze onto the 3 upper sections (Where the holes in the top are located. Go to about 1-2 inches down from the holes).
Fire to cone 06.
Cactus Bowl:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-103 Sea Spray, apply 3 coats to the inside of the bowl. Apply 2 coats to the outside. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Pour around 1 TBS of PC-602 White Cascade onto the palette. Dip the Soft Fan into the glaze and randomly “glob” the glaze going around the middle of the bowl (on outside only). Allow glaze to dry.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-208 Moss Creek, apply 2 coats to the outside of the bowl. Recede the final coat to prevent dripping. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Pour around 1 TBS of PC-601 Clear Cascade onto the palette. Dip the Soft Fan into the glaze and randomly “glob” the glaze going around the rim of the bowl (on the outside only).
Fire to cone 06.
Cactus Plate:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the scissors to cut the cactus out of the paper pattern. You are going to use the negative cactus image as the pattern, so do not cut through the paper to get to the cactus.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-103 Sea Spray, apply 2 coats to the top of the plate. Apply 3 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-208 Moss Creek, apply 2 coats to the top of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Place the pattern over the top of the plate.
Pour around 1 TBS of PC-602 White Cascade onto the palette. Use the Soft Fan to apply 2 coats to the pattern. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Remove pattern.
Pour around 1 TBS of PC-601 Clear Cascade onto the palette. Dip the Soft Fan into the glaze and randomly “glob” the glaze going around the rim of the plate (on the top only).
Begin with properly fired cone 04 stoneware bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use a fan brush to apply 2 coats of SW-173 Amber Quartz to the entire vase, inside and out, avoiding the bottom.
Use a fan brush to apply 2 coats of SW-180 Desert Dusk to the outside of the vase, below the neck, avoiding the bottom.
To achieve the blues and purples in the photo, use heavy coats and a good amount of crystals.
Use a clean sponge to wipe any excess glaze off of the foot.
Fire to cone 5/6. (Sample was fired to cone 6)
Note: Amber Quartz is the base glaze of Desert Dusk. If you do not have Amber Quartz, you can still achieve this with just Desert Dusk by not applying any crystals to the neck of the vase.
Push thumb into the center of the ball and start pinching, rotating your piece slightly each time you pinch to form walls all the way around.
Continue rotating and pitching until the walls are slightly thicker than a pencil and your piece is twice the size of the original ball.
Mold pot to sit open side down.
Smooth out any cracks with your fingers, adding a small amount of water if needed.
Create ridges of the cactus by pressing the side of your pencil firmly into your pot and rocking up and down until an impression is made.
Draw out a flower pattern on a piece of paper and cut it out to use as a stencil.
Flatten the remaining ¼ of your clay with your hand to be slightly thinner than your pencil, smooth out any cracks if needed.
Trace flower onto clay with pencil tip and cut out with a knife. Set scraps aside.
Roll a small ball out of your scrap clay for the flower center.
Score on the back and center of the flower by making small hatch marks with a pencil tip.
Add a small amount of water to the scored area with your finger and attach pieces by pressing down firmly.
Mold flower petals with your hands.
Attach the bottom of your flower to the top of your cactus with the same slip and scoring technique.
Add texture to the center of your flower and around your cactus by making small holes with the tip of your pencil.
Clean up your ridges and any imperfections by smoothing the clay with your finger or pencil eraser.
Repeat the above steps to make varying height sizes.
Allow to dry and fire to cone 04
Glazing:
Apply three coats of EL-142 Grass to the entire cactus body.
Using EL-148 Smoked Lilac and EL-149 Lavender Flower, paint the flower petals. Lavender Flower was used for the largest and smallest flower. Smoke Lilac was used for the middle flower.
Apply EL-213 Painted Desert to the center of the flower
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-110 Mudslide, apply 2 coats to the outside of the mug. Apply 3 coats to the inside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-118 Blue Grotto, apply 2 coats to the outside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Pour around 1 TBS of PC-601 Clear Cascade onto the palette. Use the Soft Fan to pat “globs” going around the top inch of the mug.
Fire to cone 06.
Mug with White Cascade:
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-110 Mudslide, apply 2 coats to the outside of the mug. Apply 3 coats to the inside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Pour around 1 TBS of PC-602 White Cascade onto the palette. Use the Soft Fan to pat “globs” around the top inch of the mug. Allow glaze to dry.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-118 Blue Grotto, apply 2 coats to the outside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 stoneware bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the AC-222 Medium Writer Tip Kit, apply SW-303 Manganese Wash in a pattern around the rim. We applied 2 rows of “w”s so there is a space to add the Stroke and Coat.
Exchange the cap on you SC for an AC-224 Plastic Detailer Cap and apply SC-29 Bluegrass as dots inside of the loops made with the wash.
Allow to dry and repeat steps 2 and 3.
Allow the glaze to dry.
Using a fan brush, apply 3 coats of SW173 Amber Quartz to both the inside and the outside of the bowl. Allow the glaze to dry in between coats and avoid glazing the foot.
Use a damp sponge to wipe away any glaze that may have gotten on the foot.
Pour CD041 Waving Gnome, CD042 Hands Up Gnome and CD043 Hands on Hips Gnome molds ¼” thick. Refer to casting instructions.
Once they are firm enough to handle, use the sponge to smooth down any casting lines.
Use the pencil to sketch stars on the hats. You can also trace around star printouts or stickers if you do not want to draw them.
Cut out the stars using the X-ACTO knife. Smooth down the edges using a damp sponge.
Fire to cone 04.
Cover the stars with MC-002 12mm Low Track Masking Tape.
Squeeze around ¼ cup of SC-55 Yella Bout It into the disposable cup. Thin with water until the glaze is easily poured. Pour into each of the gnomes and rotate to cover the inside. Drain excess glaze.
Remove the tape.
Waving Gnome
Using the Soft Fan with SC-29 Blue Grass, apply 1 coat to the gnome.
Use a damp sponge to wipe off most of the glaze, leaving it only in the crevices.
Using the Soft Fan with CC-108 China Sea, apply 3 coats to the gnome. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 06.
Using the Flat Shader with SS-138 Flat Black, apply 1 coat over the gnome. Wipe off using a damp sponge. You should be able to see the cracks.
Hands Up Gnome
Using the Soft Fan with SC-8 Just Froggy, apply 1 coat to the gnome.
Use a damp sponge to wipe off most of the glaze, leaving it only in the crevices.
Using the Soft Fan with CC-107 Green Tea, apply 3 coats to the gnome. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 06.
Using the Flat Shader with SS-138 Flat Black, apply 1 coat over the gnome. Wipe off using a damp sponge. You should be able to see the cracks.
Fire to cone 06.
Hands on Hips Gnome
Using the Soft Fan with SC-99 Charcoal, apply 1 coat to the gnome.
Use a damp sponge to wipe off most of the glaze, leaving it only in the crevices.
Using the Soft Fan with CC-102 White, apply 3 coats to the gnome. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 06.
Using the Flat Shader with SS-138 Flat Black, apply 1 coat over the gnome. Wipe off using a damp sponge. You should be able to see the cracks.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Position pattern on top of the platter. Slide AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern. Trace the pattern with a pencil.
Using the RB-106 #6 Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-24 Dandelion, SC-88 Tu Tu Tango and SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 2 coats to the corresponding section of the design. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Refer to the pattern.
Prepare AC-220 Detailer Tip and 1oz Bottle. Trim the end of the tip off with scissors (just enough so you can see a hole). Squeeze SC-15 Tuxedo into the bottle until it is about half full. Screw the tip on the bottle. Outline the leaves and stems. Add decorative lines on the leaves.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-703 Speckta-Clear Autumn, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 stoneware bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the AC-222 Medium Writer Tip Kit, apply SW-303 Manganese Wash in a pattern around the rim. We applied 2 rows of “w”s so there is a space to add the Stroke & Coat.
Exchange the cap on you SC for an AC-224 Plastic Detailer Cap and apply SC-29 Bluegrass as dots inside of the loops made with the wash.
Allow to dry and repeat steps 2 and 3.
Allow the glaze to dry.
Apply 3 coats of SW173 Amber Quartz to both the inside and the outside of the bowl. Allow the glaze to dry in between coats and avoid glazing the foot.
Use a damp sponge to wipe away any glaze that may have gotten on the foot.
Fire to cone 5/6. *Sample piece was fired to cone 6*
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use a pencil to divide the top of the vase into even sections. This is to help layout a symmetrical design.
Use the SG-401 Black Designer Liner to add lines to divide the sections and then fill the sections in with circles.
Think SW-111 Wrought Iron slightly (about the consistency of heavy cream) and roll the inside of the vase. Use a Script Liner to apply the not thinned Wrought Iron as a band about 2/3 of the way down.
Use a fan brush to apply 3 coats of CC-108 China Sea to the top section of the vase.
Use a fan brush to apply 2 coats of SG-201 Black Cobblestone to the bottom section of the vase.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use a fan brush to apply 2-3 coats of SW-404 Black Mudcrack to the bottle.
Use a fan brush to apply 2-3 coats of SW-403 White Mudcrack to the bottle. If you want to see the blue hues, you will want to overlap the Mudcrack colors slightly.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper over the front of the canvas. Trace the pattern using the pencil.
Mix SG-302 Snowfall with the palette knife. Using the Pointed Round, apply 1 thick coat to each section of the cactus.
Mix SG-501 Sculpting Medium with the palette knife. Pour around ½ oz into AC-220 Detailer Bottle. Cut the top off of the Detailer Tip and screw onto the bottle. Squirt a line on the flower outlines. Squirt a line going around the oval on the top of the vase. Then Squirt the vertical lines on the vase.
Using the Script Liner, dip into SG-501 Sculpting Medium and apply 1 thick coat to the oval at the top of the vase. The coat should be as thick as the line going around the section.
Allow SG-302 Snowfall and SG-501 Sculpting Medium to dry.
Squeeze around 1 TSP SC-89 Cutie Pie Coral onto the palette. Dip the sponge in the glaze and sponge around the edges of the canvas. Sponge down the sides.
Using the Script Liner with SC-89 Cutie Pie Coral, apply 1 thick drop coat into the outlines of the flowers.
Squeeze around 1 TBS of SC-10 Teal Next Time and SC-27 Sour Apple onto the palette. Thin each glaze with around 1 TSP of water.
Using the Script Liner with thinned SC-10 Teal Next Time, apply 1 coat around the edges of 1 section of the cactus. Dip the same brush into thinned SC-27 Sour Apple and apply to the center of that section. Repeat for all sections of the cactus.
Using the Script Liner with SC-24 Dandelion, apply 2 coats over the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coat.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the design. Add spines to the cactus.
Using the Script Liner and Soft Fan with CC-101 Transparent, apply 3 coats to the background. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 06.
Using the Script Liner with SS-138 Flat Black, apply 1 coat to the background. Before it dries, wipe off with a damp sponge. You should be able to see the cracks in the glaze.
Begin with properly fired bisque. Use a damp sponge to wipe off any access dust.
Using RB-140 #8 Soft Fan brush, apply 1 heavy coat of SC-28 Blue Isle to the top 3/4 of the pumpkin. Leave the bottom 1/4 clear.
Let dry then use a sponge to wipe off SC-28 Blue Isle leaving the color in the grooves.
Using RB-140 #8 Soft Fan brush, apply 3 coats of FN-214 Pastel Jade to the top 3/4 (same area as the Blue Isle). Leave bottom 1/4 clear. Let glaze dry between coats.
Use RB-140 Soft Fan brush to apply 3 coats of SC-92 Cafe Ole to the bottom 1/4 and the stem. Let glaze dry between coats.
With RB-140 #8 Soft Fan brush, apply 1 coat of SG-703 Speckta-Clear Autumn over SC-92 Cafe Ole.
Use RB-106 #6 Script Liner brush, dab SG-302 Snowfall where SC-28 Blue Isle and SC-92 Cafe Ole meet.
Fire to cone 06.
Optional: Use a hot glue gun to apply sea shells to the top around the stem.
MB-1658 Round Hammered Pumpkin
Begin with properly fired bisque. Use a damp sponge to remove any access dust.
Using RB-140 #8 Soft Fan brush, apply 1 heavy coat of SC-15 Tuxedo over entire pumpkin (except stem). Let dry then wipe off with a sponge leaving color in grooves.
Using RB-140 #8 Soft Fan brush, apply 3 coats of EL-133 Autumn over the same area.
Use RB-140 #8 Soft Fan brush to apply 3 coats of CG-967 Green Agate or CG-716 Pagoda Green to the stem.
Fire to cone 06.
MB-1043 Squatty Pumpkin
Begin with properly fired bisque. Use a damp sponge to remove any access dust.
With RB-140 #8 Soft Fan brush, apply 1 heavy coat of SC-51 Poo Bear to the entire pumpkin. Let dry then use a sponge to wipe off from the pumpkin (except the stem) leaving the color in the grooves.
Using RB-118 #8 Round brush, add different leaf designs with SC-81 Cinnamon Stix, SC-23 Jack-O-Lantern, and SC-24 Dandelion.
Use RB-140 #8 Soft Fan brush to apply 3 coats of FN-3 Orange to entire pumpkin (including the stem).
Roll clay into a slab that is at least 16”x20” and about 1/8” thick
Compress slab with rib
Using your fettling knife and a straight edge cut a 8”x10” rectangle to use as your canvas
Smooth out cut edges with a damp sponge and set aside
Lay pattern on top of remaining slab and draw over lines with pencil- this will leave an indentation in your clay
Pull pattern away to reveal lines in clay
Using a fettling knife or xacto knife, cut sections of the image out at a time, cleaning cut edges with a damp sponge of finger once removed
Assemble image on canvas and attach pieces by slipping and scoring them on (You may need to adjust pieces slightly)
Smooth attachments with a wet brush or dull pencil
Allow tile to dry slightly, loosely covered with plastic
Add Color layers:
Once clay is about leather hard start adding in color, focusing on big blocks of color at first
See mixed colors section to reference color mixing formulas
Using a soft bristled brush, apply 2 coats of the background color to the background, allowing each coat to dry before adding the next
If you accidentally paint an area that you did not mean to you can just scratch the color away from the clay using the back of your brush or your fingernail
Apply 2 coats of the mixed table color in the same way, while the 2nd coat is still wet brush in some brown as the shadow on the table
Continue to black in color in the vase and flowers, applying 2 coats of color using all of your yellows, oranges, reds, browns, and green
Allow tile to continue to dry slowly
Once completely dry bisque fire tile to Cone 04
Wipe bisqued piece down with a damp sponge to remove any dust
Apply additional layers of color as needed to define shapes in more detail
Allow underglaze to dry fully (leave overnight)
You can continue to fire piece and add more layers of color if desired
Variations/Adaptations/Tips&Tricks
Instead of leaving the piece matte, apply 2 coats of Clear brushing glaze (S2101) to vase and flowers.Fire glazed piece to Cone 06
Form
EM100 3lbs of Low-fire white clay
Colors
All found in UGKIT1:
UG-206 Fire Engine Red
UG-50 Jet Black
UG-31 Chocolate
UG-51 China White
UG-68 Apple Green
UG-204 Orange
UG-97 Bright Blue
UG-208 Dragon Red
S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing
Mixed Colors:
Background Color= 3 parts Apple green + 2 parts China White + 1 part Bright Blue
Bright Orange= 2 parts Fire Engine Red + 1 part Bright Yellow
Light Yellow= 1 part Bright Yellow + 1 part China White
Yellow Ocher= 5 parts Bright Yellow + 1 part Chocolate + 1 part Fire Engine Red
Dark Green= 2 parts Leaf Green + 1 part Chocolate + 1 part Jet Black
Dark Orange= 3 parts orange + 1 part Chocolate + 1 part Jet Black
Table Color= 2parts Bright Yellow + I part Chocolate + 1 part Orange
Light Orange= 2 parts Bright Yellow + 1 part Orange
Use a clean up tool to remove the collar of the leather-hard greenware vase creating an approximate 2 ½” opening. If you use the rim of the vase as a guide to cut straight downward, it should give you the proper 2 ½” opening. Make sure the lid fits the new opening. Let dry.
Remove the seam lines from the greenware using a clean up tool. Sand the seams and any imperfections in the ware using the green grit cloth. Wipe down the ware with a damp synthetic sponge to remove any dust. Check the inside for any debris as well.
In a lidded jar mix 6 teaspoons of UG-1 Kings Blue with 1 teaspoon of UG-50 Jet Black and 2 teaspoons of C-300 Matte Transparent Brushing. Stir and shake the color well, making sure the color is blended thoroughly.
Use CB-604 Soft Fan to apply 3 even smooth coats of the Underglaze mixture to the outside of the vase and to the lid excluding the middle bead trim. Allow to dry between coats.
Trace the pattern onto the ware using a AC-230 Clay Carbon and a pencil.
Place some FD-258 Pure White onto a tile. Add a drop or two of water to slightly thin the color to a brushing consistency. Load CB-404 Pointed Round with color and using a “pressure point” stroke to make the petal. The petal is made with three separate strokes. The center stroke of the petal is completed first. One separate side stroke is made next to the first stroke to complete the petal. There should be ridges of the French Dimensions when you complete each stroke forming a texture to the petal.
Using CB-110 Liner loaded with FN-258 Pure White to add a fine line of color to the outside ridge of each petal. Using the FD-258 French Dimension bottle to apply a fine line of white to the one side of the leaf as noted in the pattern. Dot in the flower centers.
Precondition CB-110 Liner with liquid detergent. Using CB-110 Liner loaded with AC-302 Wax Resist to apply the center vein and side veins. Be careful not to get wax on other areas of the design.
Use CB-110 Liner loaded with S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing to apply 1 good coat to the leaves. The wax resist areas should allow the color to bead up and form the center vein and side veins to the leaves. Apply 1 coat of SG-701 Star Dust over the clear glazed areas of the leaves.
Use the pointed end of the Clean Up Tool to sgraffatio in three small lines through the white portions of the petals from the center outward. Do not carve too deeply as to go through the blue color.
Stilt and fire the pieces separately to shelf cone 03-04.
Check the inside of the vase and remove any debris and dust left during the firing
In a plastic cup mix FN-009 Black with water to a melted ice cream consistency. Pour the thinned glaze into the vase. While working quickly, rotate the piece to coat the inside. Pour out the excess glaze and invert to dry. Repeat this step to the lid.
To the outside of the lid apply 1-2 coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing using CB-604 Soft Fan. Let dry. Shake SG-701 Star Dust before using, then apply 1 coat of SG-701 Star Dust over the top finial of the lid and bottom section of the lid. Exclude the middle bead on the lid.
Stilt and fire both pieces to shelf cone 05-06.
Using a RG-104 Liner designated for OG-803 White Gold Luster apply 1 coat of OG-803 White Gold on the middle bead of the lid. Clean the brush with OS-901 Essence.
Stilt and Fire the lid to shelf cone 018.
Optional Step: This will give you added protection for dirt and fingerprints on the unglazed areas of the vase. Apply 2 coats of a Clear Tile and Grout Sealer to the vase using CB-604 Soft Fan allowing drying time between coats. Wash the brush in liquid detergent and warm water.
Form
MB-910 Vase (large) and MB-1444 Finial Small Jar (Lid only). Both wet greenware.
Colors
UG-1 Kings Blue
UG-50 Jet Black
FD-258 Prue White
FN-009 Black
SG-701 Star Dust
S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing
C-300 Matte Transparent Brushing
Decorating Accessories
CB-110 Liner
CB-404 Pointed Round
CB-604 Soft Fan
RB-104 Liner (designated for White Gold Luster only)
Wipe off the bisque with a damp sponge and add 1 coat of wax resist to the outside bottom .”.
Cut out a template of the grid and fit to the inside bottom of the bowl. Transfer the design to the bottom of the piece using transfer paper or trace the design onto tissue paper with a pen or pencil, cut out and then trace over to the inside with a Sharpie Marker.
Using a pencil, connect the lines to create triangles up to the top around the inside wall in equal distances. Some of you may need to cheat a little.
Space the colors out evenly by marking each square or triangle with a 1, 2 or 3. Start with the center square and mark with #1 (SC-28 Blue Isle). This color will be every other square like a checkerboard. Then starting with the top row of squares, mark one row with #2 (SW-155 Winter Wood) in the blank square. In the second row, mark each blank square with a #3 (SW-166 Norse Blue). For the triangles along the side wall, every triangle with the point at the top will be SC-28. Every other going down will be SW-155 Winter Wood and SW-166 Norse Blue, alternating each one.
Using SW-401 Light Flux, create a thin line over all of the lines that were traced, 2 coats each about .” wide. Go all the way to the top and stop at the bottom of the outside rim.
Starting with SC-28 Blue Isle, fill in #1 squares with 2 coats, overlapping the flux 1/8” or so. Then fill in all the #3 squares with 2 coats of SW-166. Let it dry.
Cover the inside of each PAINTED square up to this point with 1 coat of wax resist leaving a .” along the outside color untouched by the wax resist. You want some of the color to be exposed so it can be covered with the SW-155 Winter Wood. Let Dry.
Fill in all the remaining squares along with the exposed flux lines and any color still exposed with 2 coats of SW-155 Winter Wood.
Apply 2 coats of SW-166 Norse Blue to the outside wall of the bowl, ignoring the top rim. Then add 2 wavy coats of SW-155 Winter Wood to the top 1/3 of the bowl.
Sign the bottom of the bowl with a black Designer liner.
Using the Soft Fan brush, paint the entire top of the plate with 2 coats of SC-16 Cotton Tail.
2. Allow the Cotton Tail to dry well.
3. Use a pen to apply your Pineapple pattern (make sure you have the paper going the right side up, you can always test a
small line before tracing the whole thing).
4. We are going to paint the background of the plate with 2 coats of SC-45 My Blue Heaven working our way around the
pineapple.
5. Next, to add some depth, we are going to add SC-11 Blue Yonder to the background close to the pineapple. It’s best to do
this step while both colors are wet to allow them to blend. We will do 2 coats on this shading.
6. Use RB-116 #6 Round brush to paint in the sections of the pineapple on the right side with 2 heavy coats of SC-97 Cantelope.
7. Next, paint the remaining sections of the pineapple on the left side with 2 heavy coats of SC-89 Cute Pie Coral.
8. Paint the sections of the leaves with 2 heavy coats of SC-27 Sour Apple.
9. To fill in the lines on the pineapple, we are going to use SC-27 Sour Apple and RB-106 #6 Liner brush to apply 2 coats.
10. Then randomly highlight the lines on the right side with SC-9 Jaded, and the lines on the left side with SC-26 Green Thumb.
We did 2 coats on those lines.
Next we are going to fill in the space between the leaves with 2 coats of SC-26 Green Thumb.
Flip your plate over and paint 3 coats of SC-16 Cotton Tail to the back and edges. We are not clear glazing this plate so we want to make sure all the bisque is covered.
We are going to add some texture to our pineapple and background using Jungle Gems. We aren’t going for full coverage, just doing one coat to get the crystals to adhere. Stir your CG-718 Blue Caprice Jungle Gems and apply one coat concentrating the crystals close to the pineapple and leaves.
Next, stir up your CG-756 Firecracker and add lines to your Cutie Pie Coral sections, we just did a line on two of the four sides.
Repeat step 15, this time using CG-753 Sassy Orange on the Cant-elope sections.
Add one coat of CG-987 Tree Frog to the lighter green part of your leaves.
Finally, add a dot of SC-16 Cotton Tail to the center of each section to highlight.
Mix 1-1.5 ounces of FN-1 White with distilled water and pour inside the opening of the vase. Roll the vase around, letting the thinned glaze cover the inside of the vase. Repeat as needed to cover the inside of the vase.
Sketch or transfer the design onto the vase.
Using a fan brush, paint around the cheetah, moon, leaves, and ground with 3 coats of Raw-Hide.
Using RB-106 #6 Script Liner brush, paint the moon and ground with 3 coats of SC-45 My Blue Heaven.
Using the RB-104 #4 Liner brush, paint the leaves with 3 coats of SC-85 Orkid.
Using the RB-106 #6 Script Liner brush, paint the cheetah with 3 coats of SC-97 Cant-elope. When dry, use RB-104 #4 Liner brush to add sections of SC-16 Cotton Tail to the face, eyes, ears, and side of the cheetah.
When the vase has dried, use a RB-10/0 Detail Liner brush to outline the cheetah with 1-2 thick and even coats of SC-15 Tuxedo. Add detail to the face and tail. Optional: Outline the leaves.
Use a liner brush to add cheetah spots with SG-201 Black Cobblestone all over the cheetah.
Use a RB-116 #6 Round to add rocks on the ground, spots in the moon, and detail work on the leaves with SG-201 Black Cobblestone. The thicker you apply the product, the more cobbled effect you’ll see when fired. Play around with different layers of glaze for a more interesting look.
Paint the base of the vase with 3 coats of SC-45 My Blue Heaven using a RB-144 Soft Fan Brush.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Cut around the pattern to get rid of the excess paper. It will be easier to lay on the platter. Place the pattern on the platter. While holding the pattern in place, slide AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper underneath. Trace with a pencil.
Using the Script Liner with SC-45 My Blue Heaven (large bird), SC-6 Sunkissed (medium bird), and SC-97 Cant-elope (small bird), apply 2 coats to each bird. Do not glaze the wings. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Take the pattern and cut out the large and medium birds. Remove the wings and beaks. Each bird should be separated. Take the large bird body and place it over the piece of lace fabric. Cut out the lace to match the pattern. Take the medium bird body and place it over the piece of paper doily. Cut out the doily to match the pattern. Take your piece of ribbon and cut it into 5 pieces (they will be used on the small bird).
Place the lace fabric onto the large bird. Dip the Soft Fan in water and brush over the lace to help it stick to the glaze. Using the Script Liner with SC-45 My Blue Heaven, apply 1 coat over the lace.
Place the paper doily onto the medium bird. Dip the Soft Fan into water and brush over the paper to help it stick to the glaze. Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 1 coat over the paper doily.
Dip one of the pieces of ribbon into water. Place it going vertically on the center of the small bird. Repeat for the other 4 pieces of ribbon going towards the front and back of the bird. Using the Script Liner with SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 1 coat over the ribbon.
Wait for the glaze from Steps #5-7 to be dry to the touch.
Using the Script Liner with SC-28 Blue Isle, apply 1 coat over the body of the large bird.
Using the Script Line with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 1 coat over the body of the medium bird.
Using the Script Line with SC-89 Cutie Pie Coral, apply 1 coat over the body of the small bird.
Remove the lace, doily, and ribbon before the glaze is bone dry.
Using the Script Liner with SC-89 Cutie Pie Coral (large bird), SC-28 Blue Isle (medium bird), and SC-27 Sour Apple (small bird), apply 2 coats to the wings. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 2 coat to the beaks on the large and medium birds. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 2 coats to the beak on the small bird.
Using SG-401 Black, make eyes and decorative wing accents on each of the birds. Add a line on each beak. Add legs and feet to the large bird.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-052 Tangerine, apply 3 coats to the rim and back of the app plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-702 Celebration, apply 2 coats to the front of the app plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Small Stacked Bird Plate
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Cut out the small and medium birds from the pattern. Position them so that they will fit on the small app plate. I put them going in the same direction. While holding the patterns in place, slide AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper underneath. Trace with a pencil.
Using the Script Liner with SC-45 My Blue Heaven (medium bird) and SC-97 Cant-elope (small bird), apply 2 coats to each bird. Do not glaze the wings. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Remove the wings and beaks from the small and medium bird patterns. Each bird should be separated. Take the medium bird body and place it over the piece of lace fabric. Cut out the lace to match the pattern. Take your piece of ribbon and cut it into 5 pieces (they will be used on the small bird).
Place the lace fabric onto the medium bird. Dip the Soft Fan in water and brush over the lace to help it stick to the glaze. Using the Script Liner with SC-45 My Blue Heaven, apply 1 coat over the lace.
Dip one of the pieces of ribbon into water. Place it going vertically on the center of the small bird. Repeat for the other 4 pieces of ribbon going towards the front and back of the bird. Using the Script Liner with SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 1 coat over the ribbon.
Wait for the glaze from Steps #5-6 to be dry to the touch.
Using the Script Liner with SC-28 Blue Isle, apply 1 coat over the body of the medium bird.
Using the Script Line with SC-89 Cutie Pie Coral, apply 1 coat over the body of the small bird.
Remove the lace and ribbon before the glaze is bone dry.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed (medium bird) and SC-28 Blue Isle (small bird), apply 2 coats to the wings. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 2 coat to the beak on the medium bird. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 2 coats to the beak on the small bird. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using SG-401 Black, make eyes and decorative wing accents on each of the birds. Add a line on each beak.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-052 Tangerine, apply 3 coats to the rim and back of the app plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-702 Celebration, apply 2 coats to the front of the app plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Stacked Bird Wine Tumbler
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Cut out the small bird from the pattern. Position the small bird on the outside of the tumbler. The beak should be pointed upwards. Trace around the pattern with a pencil. Lift the pattern and place next to the one you just traced. The top, tip of the wing should overlap the body of the bird you just traced. Trace with a pencil. Repeat until you have a line of 4 birds going around the tumbler.
Use a pencil to draw in the wings and beaks. You can also cut them from the pattern and trace them if you don’t want to free-hand them.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 2 coats to every other bird. Apply SC-97 Cant-elope to the other two birds. Do not glaze the wings. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Take your 4 pieces of ribbon and cut them each into 5 pieces.
Dip one of the pieces of ribbon into water. Place it going vertically on the center of the first small bird. Repeat for the other 4 pieces of ribbon going towards the front and back of the bird. Using the Script Liner with SC-97 Cant-elope or SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 1 coat over the ribbon (same color as the base color). Repeat for the other 3 birds.
Wait for the glaze from Steps #6 to be dry to the touch.
Using the Script Liner with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 1 coat over the body of the small birds with a base of SC-6 Sunkissed.
Using the Script Line with SC-89 Cutie Pie Coral, apply 1 coat over the body of the small birds with a base of SC-97 Cant-elope.
Remove the lace and ribbon before the glaze is bone dry.
Using the Script Liner with SC-28 Blue Isle, apply 2 coats to the wings. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-97 Cant-elope or SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 2 coat to the beaks. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using SG-401 Black, make eyes and decorative wing accents on each of the birds. Add a line on each beak. Add legs and feet.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-052 Tangerine, apply 3 coats to the inside of the tumbler. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-702 Celebration, apply 2 coats to the outside of the tumbler. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 3 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Place the pattern over the front of the plate after the glaze is dry to the touch, but not bone dry. Trace over the pattern with the pencil. Check to make sure you are not pressing too hard or too soft. You want to be able to see the lines, but not scrape down to the bisque. Remove the pattern.
Using the Detail Liner with AC-302 Wax Resist, outline the pattern. Make a line going around the rim of the plate.
Take your 3 AC-220 Detailer Tips and cut the very top of the tip off with scissors. You should be able to see a tiny hole in the tip.
Take your 3 AC-220 1 oz Bottles and fill each one around half-way full of the following glazes: EL-103 Sea Spray, EL-128 Wheat, and EL-149 Lavender Flower. Make sure to label each bottle because some of the glazes will look similar. Screw on the tips.
Using the bottles of EL-103 Sea Spray and EL-149 Lavender Flower, fill each cactus with dots. The dots should be around the size of a pencil eraser. They should be close, but not touching. You can make your dots in lines or randomly within the cactuses. EL-103 Sea Spray produces the light blue dot. EL-149 Lavender Flower produces the purple dot.
Using the bottle with EL-128 Wheat, make dots going along the inside of the horizontal line at the bottom of the plate. Continue the dots down to the bottom of the plate. Make a single dot in the center of each flower.
Using the Script Liner with EL-127 Rose Granite, apply 2 coats to each of the flower petals. Apply a 3rd coat just to the very center of each flower petal (area ¼” from the edge line). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with EL-142 Grass, apply 2 coats to the background of the plate. Apply a 3rd coat just to the very center of each section of the background (area ¼” from the edge line). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Flower Plate
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 3 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Place the pattern over the front of the plate after the glaze is dry to the touch, but not bone dry. Trace over the pattern with the pencil. Check to make sure you are not pressing too hard or too soft. You want to be able to see the lines, but not scrape down to the bisque. Remove the pattern.
Using the Detail Liner with AC-302 Wax Resist, outline the pattern. Make a line going around the rim of the plate.
Take your 3 AC-220 Detailer Tips and cut the very top of the tip off with scissors. You should be able to see a tiny hole in the tip.
Take your 3 AC-220 1 oz Bottles and fill each one around half-way full of the following glazes: EL-103 Sea Spray, EL-128 Wheat and EL-142 Grass. Make sure to label each bottle because some of the glazes will look similar. Screw on the tips.
Using the bottle of EL-142 Grass, make dots in the outer petals. They can be staggered in lines or random. The dots should be around the size of a pencil eraser. They should be close, but not touching.
Repeat Step #8 with EL-128 Wheat for the inner petals.
Repeat Step #8 with EL-103 Sea Spray for the line going around the center of the flower.
Using the Script Liner with EL-127 Rose Granite, apply 2 coats to the center of the flower. Apply 1 3rd coat just to the very center of the flower center (area ¼” from the edge line). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with EL-103 Sea Spray, apply 2 coats to the background of the plate. Apply a 3rd coat just to the very center of the background (area ¼” from the edge line). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Circle Plate
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 3 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Place the pattern over the front of the plate after the glaze is dry to the touch, but not bone dry. Trace over the pattern (only trace the circle) with the pencil. Check to make sure you are not pressing too hard or too soft. You want to be able to see the line, but not scrape down to the bisque. Remove the pattern.
Using the Detail Liner with AC-302 Wax Resist, outline the circle. Make a line going around the rim of the plate.
Take your 4 AC-220 Detailer Tips and cut the very top of the tip off with scissors. You should be able to see a tiny hole in the tip.
Take your 4 AC-220 1 oz Bottles and fill each one around half-way full of the following glazes: EL-103 Sea Spray, EL-127 Rose Granite, EL-128 Wheat, and EL-149 Lavender Flower. Make sure to label each bottle because some of the glazes will look similar. Screw on the tips.
Using the bottle of EL-127 Rose Granite, make dots going around the inside of the center circle. The dots should be around the size of a pencil eraser. They should be close, but not touching. Repeat, going towards the center of the plate.
Repeat Step #8, using EL-128 Wheat.
Repeat Step #8, using EL-149 Lavender Flower.
Repeat Step #8, using EL-103 Sea Spray.
Repeat Step #8, using EL-149 Lavender Flower.
Using the bottle of EL-127 Rose Granite, make dots to fill in the center of the circle.
Using the Script Liner with EL-128 Wheat, apply 2 coats to the outer border of the plate. Apply a 3rd coat just to the very center of the border (area ¼” from the edge line). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Small Cactus Plate
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 3 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Place the pattern over the front of the plate after the glaze is dry to the touch, but not bone dry. Trace over the pattern with the pencil. Check to make sure you are not pressing too hard or too soft. You want to be able to see the lines, but not scrape down to the bisque. Remove the pattern.
Using the Detail Liner with AC-302 Wax Resist, outline the pattern. Make a line going around the rim of the plate.
Take your 2 AC-220 Detailer Tips and cut the very top of the tip off with scissors. You should be able to see a tiny hole in the tip.
Take your 2 AC-220 1 oz Bottles and fill each one around half-way full of the following glazes: EL-128 Wheat and EL-142 Grass. Make sure to label each bottle because the glazes will look similar. Screw on the tips.
Using the bottle of EL-142 Grass, make dots in the body of the large cactus. They can be staggered in lines or random. The dots should be around the size of a pencil eraser. They should be close, but not touching.
Repeat Step #8 with EL-128 Wheat for the other two cactuses.
Using the Script Liner with EL-103 Sea Spray, apply 1 puddle coat to the flowers on top of the cactuses.
Using the Script Liner with EL-149 Lavender Flower, apply 2 coats to the background of the plate. Apply a 3rd coat just to the very center of the background (area ¼” from the edge line). Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired bisque. Use a damp sponge to wipe off any debris.
Use a pencil to mark off the area above the fawn’s front leg, extending downward to the front foot.
Using RB-144 #4 Soft Fan brush, paint the area above the leg with 3 coats of SC-20 Cashew Later. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using RB-144 #4 Soft Fan brush, paint the leg area with 3 coats of SC-43 Lettuce Alone, loosely mixing in a little bit of SC-24 Dandelion. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use a pencil to help plan where your darker fur color will go.
Using RB-144 #4 Soft Fan brush, paint the planned darker colors with 2 thick coats of SC-80 Basketball. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Optional: use RB-106 #6 Script Liner brush and a bit of watered down SC-16 Cotton Tail and SC-15 Tuxedo to add highlights and/or lowlights around the fawn’s ears and face.
Use a pencil to sketch out flowers and leaves on the green area. Mix it up and use different shapes.
Use a RB-104 #4 Liner brush to paint 1 thick coat of the flowers and the leaves. Utilize different colors and experiment with mixing colors/shading.
Paint the eyes and nose with 2 coats of SC-15 Tuxedo using RB-104 #4 Liner brush.
Use the back of a brush to add a dot of SC-16 Cotton Tail to the corner of the eye.
Use RB-104 #4 Liner brush to carefully outline flowers and leaves with SC-15 Tuxedo. Add black/white dots to unpainted background areas using the back of a brush.
Use RB-106 #6 Script Liner brush and 1 or 2 thick coats of SC-16 Cotton Tail to add brush strokes to the top of the fawn’s head and back.
Use a pencil to mark areas around wings, eyes (inner and outer), beak, and feet.
Paint the owl belly with 3 coats of CG-783 Strawberry Sundae with RB-144 #4 Soft Fan brush. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Paint the outer eye with 2 coats of SC-1 Pink-A-Boo with RB-118 #8 Round brush. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use RB-100 #0 Detail Liner brush to add thin brush strokes of CG-783 Strawberry Sundae over the pink-a-boo.
Using RB-118 #8 Round brush, paint the inside of the eye with 3 coats of SC-16 Cotton Tail. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using RB-118 #8 Round brush, paint the beak and the feet with 3 coats of SC-24 Dandelion. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using RB-144 #4 Soft Fan brush, paint the rest of the body (head, wings, back) with 4 coats of FN-304 Black Velvet. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use RB-104 #4 Liner brush to make loose brush stroke (“feather”) marks on the owl head, wings, and back using 1 coat of SG-701 Speckta-Clear Star Dust.
Use RB-100 #0 Detail Liner brush to add a black pupil to center of eye with 3 coats of SC-15 Tuxedo. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Once dry, use the back of a paint brush to add a dot with SC-16 Cotton Tail in the corner of the pupil.
Start with properly fired MB-1564 Koala Facet-ini.
Use a damp sponge to wipe off any dust.
With a RB-144 #4 Soft Fan brush, apply 2 coats of SC-60 Silver Lining to the entire bisque. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using a clean RB-144 #4 Soft Fan Brush, applyonecoatin a randommannerto the koala, not covering the entire surface.
Using the RB-104 #4 Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, applytwo coats tofill in the eyes and nose. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the RB-104 #4 Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply one coat of dashes along the facets. Randomly add squiggles, x’s, waves and other fun designs to different areas of the koala.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the RB-144 #4 Soft Fan, apply three coats of SC-16 Cotton Tail to the entire bunny. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the RB-110 10/0 Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply two coats to outline, fill in the eye and add eyelashes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the RB-106 #6 Script Liner with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, apply two coats to the inside of the ears and an upside-down triangle for the nose. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the RB-110 10/0 Detail Liner with SC-54 Vanilla Dip (mixed with a little SC-41 Brown Cow) apply one coat to outline the facets.
Fire cone 06.
Form
MB-1565 Bunny Facet-ini
Colors
SC-1 Pink-A-Boo
SC-15 Tuxedo
SC-16 Cotton Tail
SC-54 Vanilla Dip (mixed with a little SC-41 Brown Cow)
Wipe down the bisque shape with a moistened synthetic sponge to remove any dust and debris.
Cut out the pattern with scissors.Center the pattern onto the ware and place blue masking tape to secure the pattern to the ware. Use AC-230 Clay Carbon and a pencil to transfer the design onto the ware.
Make a small receptacle out of aluminum foil or use a small plastic cup.Place some AC-304 Wax Resist in it and add a couple of drops of food coloring to tint the wax.The food coloring will aid in seeing where you have applied the wax resist when painting.
Condition CB-110 Liner with the liquid detergent.Apply 1 heave coat of the wax resist to the design.Only one coat is needed but it needs to be a heavy coat.Let dry.
Apply 3-4 smooth even coats of FN-304 Black Velvet to the entire piece using CB-604 Soft Fan and CB-404 Pointed Round around the pattern.Try not to apply the glaze over the waxed areas.The wax should resist the glaze.If any glaze remains on the waxed areas, use as moistened brush to remove any glaze.
Stilt and fire the piece to shelf cone 05-06.
Place some SG-881 Glittering Silver onto some aluminum foil or plastic cup.Use CB-110 Liner to apply 1-2 coat(s) of color to the teardrop portions of the pattern for solid coverage.
Using CB-110 Liner to apply 1-2 coat(s) of SG-882 Glittering Gold to the star and numbers in the pattern for solid coverage.
Wipe down bisque with a moistened synthetic sponge to remove any dust or debris from the ware.Check inside as well for any debris.
Apply 2-3 coats of FN-014 Antique White to the middle section of the can.Let Dry.
Transfer the design onto the ware using a pencil and AC-230 Clay Carbon.
Condition CB-110 Liner with Liquid Detergent.Place some AC-302 Wax Resist in a small Plastic Cup or Aluminum Foil and add a drop or two of food coloring to tint the wax.This will aid in seeing where the wax has been applied.Wash brush immediately with warm water and liquid detergent.Let the wax dry.
Using CB-602 Soft Fan apply 2-3 coats of SC-87 Ruby Slippers to the middle section allowing drying time between coats. Try not to apply the color over the waxed area.Remove any color from the waxed area using a moistened brush.Let dry.
Use the ½” Blue Masking Tape to section off the horizontal plaid portions on the ware.Use small scrap pieces of tape to use as a spacing guides for the taped off areas.Make sure the edges are securely affixed to the surface.On a tile place some SC-81 Cinnamon Stix and add a drop or two of SC-15 Tuxedo to darken.Mix the color well.Apply 2-3 coats of color to the bands (untaped areas) around the can.Allow the color to dry between coats.When the last coat of color has been applied and has lost its sheen, remove the tape from the pattern.Let dry.
Using the ½” Blue Masking Tape to section off the vertical sections of the plaid pattern by starting on the left to the front of the design. By starting on left side on the design front next to the handle knob you will insure that the front spacing is even and any adjustments to spacing can occur on the back side that doesn’t show. Again, use scrap pieces of tape to use as spacing guides.The spacing may need to be adjusted in order to accommodate the circumference of the can.Make sure that edges of the tape are securely affixed.Apply 2-3 coats of the darkened SC-81 Cinnamon Stix using CB-310 Flat Shader to the vertical lines allowing drying time between coats.When the last coat of color has lost its shine, remove the tape from the ware.Let dry.
Use CB-110 Liner loaded with slightly thinned SC-15 Tuxedo to fill in the squares where the plaid crosses.Keep the edges square and sharp when defining the square space.
Apply 3 coats of FN-09 Black to the inside of the ware, can bottom and trim edges along both top and bottom using CB-602 Soft Fan and CB-404 Pointed Round.Let dry.
Check to make sure no color remains on the waxed areas of the design.Use a moistened brush to remove any color off of the wax.
Stilt and Fire the piece to Shelf Cone 05-06.
Use a wire coat hanger to create the can handle and attach it through the holes in the can.
Wipe down the bisque with a moistened synthetic sponge to remove and dust and debris. Check the inside of the ware also.
Using CB-604 Soft Fan apply 3 coats of FN-01 White to the middle section of the can.Let dry.
Cut out the snowman from the pattern.Do not cut out arm portions of the design.Just the basic shape of the snowman and hat.
Apply water to the back of the cut-out portion of the pattern and place it onto the can. Position the pattern to where the snowman aligns with the bottom edge of the can.
Place some of each of the Speckled Stroke & Coats onto a tile.Using a damp synthetic sponge, load the edge of the sponge then pounce on 1 coat of SC-253 Speckled Purple Haze about half way up from the bottom of the can.
Pick up some SP-211 Speckled Blue Yonder and about 1/3 of the way up from the bottom of the can pounce on the color blending over the previous color.
Pick up some SP-212 Speckled Moody Blue and start from the top of the can pouncing downward about 1/3 of the way blending the color out over the lighter blue.The colors should appear darkest near the top of the can fading to the lighter blue towards the middle and then to the purple at the bottom.You can overlap the edge of the paper stencil slightly but not completely cover it.Repeat this process 2 more times for solid coverage.Once the last coat of color has been applied to the background and the glaze it has lost its shine, remove the snowman stencil.Let dry.
Retrace the pattern onto the snowman including the branch arms.
Shade the inner edges of the snowman with SC-45 My Blue Heaven and SC-85 Orkid using CB-406 Pointed Round loaded with water and tipped with color.Use SC-45 My Blue Heaven to shade the cheeks and highlight top edge with SC-11 Blue Yonder. Shade above the eyes with SC-85 Orkid.Outline the Snowman’s edges and paint in the iris of the eye with SC-30 Blue Dawn using CB-110 Liner.
Block in the hat area with 2 thinned coats of SC-81 Cinnamon Stix using CB-310 Flat Shader.If needed, draw in the stitching before painting to get the pattern correct.Detail the stitching in the hat with 2 coats of SC-73 Candy Apple Red using CB-110 Liner.For the pompom, apply 3 coats of SC-73 Candy Apple Red and pull off some fine lines to create a fuzzy texture along the outer edge using CB-110 Liner.
Block in 1-2 coats of SC-27 Sour Apple to the scarf using CB-310 Flat Shader.Shade the edges and knot of the scarf with SC-39 Army Surplus.Detail the scarf with SC-73 Candy Apple Red and SC-39 Army Surplus using CB-110 Liner.
Block in the branch arms with 2-3 coats of SC-48 Brown Cow using CB-406 Pointed Round and CB-110 Liner.Detail the graining of the branch with thinned SC-34 Down To Earth and SC-15 Tuxedo using CB-110 Liner.
Block in the ear muffs with 1-2 coats of SC-99 Char-ming using CB-406 Pointed Round.Paint in the eyebrows using CB-110 Liner.Stipple in the shading of the ear muffs with SC-15 Tuxedo using CB-310 Flat Shader.You want to make them look fuzzy by stippling in the color over the edges a wee bit.
Fill in the carrot nose with 2 coats of SC-97 Cant-elope using CB-110 Liner.Shade the bottom edge with thinned SC-25 Crackerjack Brown.Detail the lower edge with thinned SC-25.To the top edge shade with a thin mixture of SC-97 tinted with SC-73 Candy Apple Red to make a red orange.
Paint in the detail of the eyes and mouth with SC-15 Tuxedo using CB-110 Liner.Scratch in a highlight to the pupil using a clean up tool.
To paint in the trees load CB-406 Pointed Round with SC-26 Green Thumb.Start at the top of the tree and stroke downward with the color, start adding the branches but keep them pointing slightly upward.As you paint in the lower branches start to keep them more horizontal but with a slight upward tilt.You can pick up some SC-36 Irish Luck and stroke over the already painted green color to add depth and variation to the trees.The trees are somewhat abstract and not very detailed with the green color.
Using FD-258 White French Dimensions to add in the snow on the pattern.Keep the snow light on the detail for the snowman using small connected dots of color over using a solid line of color.Heavier detailing can be done on the trees.Easier to add more color if needed than to get too much too soon. The snow will be more individual dots of color towards the top of the trees and as you move down on the lower branches the color is more vertical to indicate the layers on the branches.Let Dry.
Apply 1-2 coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing over the middle section of the can using CB-604 Soft Fan.
To the inside and bottom of the can apply 3-4 coats of FN-019 Dark Blue using CB-604 Soft Fan and CB-406 Pointed Round along the edges where it meets the middle portion of the can.
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 05-06.
Use grapevine wire to create the handle. It is made up of 3 pieces of wire where it twists and wraps around one another to create more of a grapevine texture. Use the floral wire to attach the Christmas tree buttons to simulate a string of lights.
Holes need to be drilled in greenware prior to bisque firing for lamp cord and hardware.Center hole in top should be 5/16” in diameter. Hole for cord (3/16” in diameter) should be along the trim about 1” from the bottom of the ware.
Glazing:
Wipe down the bisque with a moistened synthetic sponge.
Trace the basic shapes of the design onto the middle section of the pedestal using a pencil and AC-230 Clay Carbon.If you feel confident enough you can freehand the placement of the flowers and leaves to avoid the tracing of the pattern.
On a tile put out some SG-405 Green Designer Liner.Thicken it with some AC-310 Silk Screen Medium until a peanut butter consistency.Use the Pallet Knife to fully mix the medium into the color. Color will thicken up after initial mixing as it absorbs more moisture from the color.Store the color into some airtight jars for later use.Repeat this mixing process with 3 parts SG-410 Bright Blue Designer Liner with 1 part SG-404 Blue Designer Liner to the same consistency as peanut butter. Store mixture in an air tight jar for later use. This is easier to mix up a larger quantity and use it as needed than to be constantly mixing color to use.
Cut out the hydrangea flowers from the DSS-0149 Botanical Flowers sheet of screen designs. Allow at least ½” border around each screen you cut out.
Cut out separately each of the three leaves from the DSS-0111 Leaves Screen.The pattern shows you some of the various leaf placement, and you can also use the leaves from the hydrangea screen as single leaves on the overall design.
You can rotate the flower screen when printing the design to give a different look, too.Some of the leaves can overlap the flowers and the flower can hide portions of the leaves to give added interest in the design.
With the shiny side of the screen next to the ware, pick up some of the thickened blue mixture and start rubbing firmly in a circular motion over the screen’s center and moving outward until the entire screen has been covered (you can secure it with some blue masking tape to aid in keeping the screen in place while printing).Do not go past the edge of the screen. When you have completed rubbing the color over the screen, lift the screen up.
Using the screen more than one printing is possible but a washing of the screen may be necessary between printing.Use a paper towel to dry the screen between uses.
Use the various leaf and stem screens to complete the design using the green mixture over the screens.Let dry.
Load CB-404 Pointed Round with water and tip with SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue to shade under the individual petals of the flowers.Keep the shading heavier towards the outer petals of the flower ball to give dimension to the flowers.
Use CB-404 Pointed Round to apply 1-2 coats of the various colors to paint in the petals of the flowers with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, SC-65 Peri-Twinkle, SC-96 Aqu-ward and CN-261 Light Grape.Depending on your needs, you can apply more of one color than others to compliment your décor.
Use CB-404 Pointed Round to apply 1-2 coats of thinned amounts of the various colors (SC-10 Teal Next Time, SC-25 Crackerjack Brown, SC-39 Army Surplus and SC-52 Toad-ily Green) for the leaves and stems in a watercolor technique. The colors should be transparent enough to still see the underlying dark green screen printing of the leaves.Let dry.
The darker colors are used to shade overlaps and where the flowers appear over the leaves.
Apply 2-3 coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing using CB-604 Soft Fan over the middle section of the pedestal and over the design.
Apply 3 coats of FN-001 White to the top and bottom trim of the pedestal using CB-604 Soft Fan.For a bolder look you can apply a Foundation color rather than white.
Stilt and fire the ware to shelf cone 05-06.
Wire lamp to completion.
Form
CD1495 Garden Pedestal
Colors
FN-001 White
S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing
SC-1 Pink-A-Boo
SC-10 Teal Next Time
SC-24 Dandelion
SC-25 Crackerjack Brown
SC-39 Army Surplus
SC-52 Taod-ily Green
SC-65 Peri-Twinkle
SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue
SC-96 Aqu-ward
CN-261 Light Grape
SG-404 Blue
SG-405 Green
SC-410 Bright Blue.
Decorating Accessories
CB-110 Liner
CB-404 Pointed Round
SC-604 Soft Fan.
DSS-0111 Botanical Leaves (Large tear drop leaf, Large long tapered leaf, twig with single leaf attached)
Pour CD041 Waving Gnome, CD042 Hands Up Gnome and CD043 Hands on Hips Gnome molds ¼” thick. Refer to casting instructions.
Once they are firm enough to handle, use the sponge to smooth down any casting lines.
Fire to cone 04.
Squeeze around 2 TBS of SC-15 Tuxedo onto the palette. Thin with around 1/2 TSP of water. Using the Soft Fan, brush 1 coat over each piece.
Using a damp sponge, wipe most of the glaze off, leaving it only in the crevices.
Waving Gnome
Using the Script Liner with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 2 coats to the coat. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-74 Hot Tamale, apply 2 coats to the mittens. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-48 Camel Back, apple 2 coats to the beard and mustache. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-34 Down To Earth, apply 2 coats to the nose. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SP-216 Speckled Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to the hat. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Draw a heart on the hat with a pencil.
Using the Script Liner with SC-74 Hot Tamale, apply 2 coats to the heart. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the bottom of the hat and feet. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Use the Detail Liner to outline the details and add stitches around the heart.
Dip into NT-CLR Clear One Dipping.
Fire to cone 06.
Hands Up Gnome
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to the coat. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply 1 coat to the hat.
Using the Script Liner with SC-46 Rawhide, apply 2 coats to the nose. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-83 Tip Taupe, apply 2 coats to the beard. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 2 coats to the mittens. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Take MC-001 6mm Low Track Masking Tape and apply it in circles going around the hat to make stripes. Make sure it is firmly pressed down.
Using the Soft Fan with SP-274 Speckled Hot Tamale, apply 2 coats to the hat. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Remove the tape before the glaze is bone dry.
Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the bottom of the hat and feet. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Use the Detail Liner to outline the details.
Dip into NT-CLR Clear One Dipping.
Fire to cone 06.
Hands on Hips Gnome
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to the mittens. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply 1 coat to the hat.
Using the Script Liner with SC-42 Butter Me Up, apply 2 coats to the beard. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-25 Crackerjack Brown, apply 2 coats to the nose. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-74 Hot Tamale, apply 2 coats to the coat. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Take the hole punch and punch out 25-50 holes from the paper. Take the “dots” and dip each one in water and place on the hat. Using the Soft Fan with SC-16 Cotton tail, apply 1 coat over the dots.
Using the Soft Fan with SP-227 Speckled Sour Apple, apply 2 coats to the hat. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Remove the “dots” before the glaze is bone dry.
Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the bottom of the hat and feet. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Use the Detail Liner to outline the details.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the CB-604 #4 Soft Fan to apply three coats of FN-014 Antique White to the top of the platter. Let Dry.
Use the AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper to trace the leaves pattern onto the platter.
Thicken SC-34 Down To Earth and SC-39 Army Surplus with AC-310 Silkscreen Medium, using a palette knife, to the consistency of peanut butter. Use a couple of leaves from DSS-0111 Botanical-Leaves to screen onto the platter as shown. Rub the thickened glaze over the screen with the shiny side down. Gently clean the screen with water.
For the large leaf, use CB-106 #6 Script Liner to apply SC-81 Cinnamon Stix to part of the leaf. Blend the color into SC-25 Crackerjack Brown, then into SC-97 Cant-elope. Apply two coats of each color.
For the smaller leaves use a combination of SC-81 Cinnamon Stix, SC-26 Green Thumb and SC-97 Cant-elope. Vary the colors, by leaving one of the colors out of each leaf.
Use CB-110 #10/0 Liner to outline and vein the leaves with SC-34 Down to Earth and SC-15 Tuxedo.
Use a stiff toothbrush to spatter SC-34 Down to Earth onto the platter. Use a squeegee to drag on SC-39 Army Surplus to the edges of the tray so it is uneven.
Use the Script Liner to apply SC-15 Tuxedo to the rim and inside the handles
Use the Soft Fan to apply three coats of FN-014 Antique White to the back of the platter. Use the toothbrush to splatter SC-34 Down To Earth onto the back of the platter.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 06 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using CB-604 Soft Fan, apply FN-004 Red to the backside and along the side edge of the plate. Allow glaze to lose its shine between coats. Apply 3 coats. Seminar mode: glaze the back of the plate last. The front of the plate dries quicker.
With AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper, trace the pattern onto the front of the bisque with a pencil.
Using SG-401 Black, outline the traced image. Dip the CB-106 #6 Script Liner in water, then sideload the brush with a small amount SG-401 Black and brush along the previously drawn SG-401 Black line. Repeat process with dipping the CB-106 #6 Script Liner in water, then sideloading into SG-401 Black until the entire outline has been faded. Be sure to brush along the eyebrow and lower eyelid of the elephant.
To add flowers on the elephant’s head, draw a quarter-sized circle with SG-410 Bright Blue on the forehead and bottom of the ear. Using CB-110 #10/0 Liner, evenly brush to a solid colored circle. Allow to dry.
On top of the SG-410 Bright Blue circle (on the forehead and ear), draw a slightly smaller circle using SG-403 Red. Using CB-110 #10/0 Liner, evenly brush to a solid colored circle. Allow to dry.
On top of the SG-403 Red circle (on the forehead and ear), draw a slightly smaller circle using SG-407 Yellow. Using CB-110 #10/0 Liner, evenly brush to a solid colored circle. Allow to dry.
On top of the SG-407 Yellow circle (on the forehead and ear), draw and fill in a smaller circle using SG-405 Green. Allow to dry.
With alternating colors, use SG-403 Red, SG-407 Yellow, SG-408 Orange, SG-409 Bright Green, and SG-410 Bright Blue to add small dots and decorate the previously drawn circles.
Using SG-405 Green, draw vines on the head and ears, filling in the leaves with a thin coat. Allow to dry. Add dots of SG-407 Yellow on leaves.
Using SG-407 Yellow, SG-403 Red, and SG-404 Blue, draw small flowers around the vines.
Go back through the design and add dots along with the design with all of the Designer Liner Colors. Allow to dry.
Using CB-110 #10/0 Liner, dot on SC-16 Cotton Tail to the eyes.
Using SG-404 Blue, SG-403 Red, and SG-409 Bright Green, apply a border by dotting along the outer edge of the bisque. Alternate colors as shown.
Allow to dry. Apply clear glaze of choice to the interior and exterior of bisque.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper over the front of the plate. Trace the pattern using a pencil.
Using the RB-106 #6 Script Liner with SC-26 Green Thumb, SC-27 Sour Apple, SC-48 Camel Back, SC-60 Silver Lining, SC-73 Candy Apple Red and SC-87 Ruby Slippers, apply 2 coats to the corresponding sections of the pattern. Refer to the pattern.
The hat has two colors: SC-27 Sour Apple with SC-26 Green Thumb shading around the edges.
Using the RB-110 10/0 Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline each section of the pattern and add decorative lines.
Use the RB-106 #6 Script Liner to make a string going around the antlers and letters for the lights.
Squeeze around 1 TSP of SC-26 Green Thumb, SC-27 Sour Apple,SC-73 Candy Apple Red and SC-87 Ruby Slippers onto the palette. Use the eraser on the pencil to dip into the glaze and create dots on the “string” for the lights. Don’t make a dot on a letter if it’s the same color, or you won’t be able to see it. Alternate between the reds and greens.
Using the RB-144 #4 Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the RB-144 #4 Soft Fan with SG-704 Speckta-Clear Peppermint, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-132 Rust Red, apply 1 coat to the body of the large pumpkin. You do not need to glaze the stem.
Use a damp sponge to wipe off most of the glaze, leaving it only in the crevices.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-132 Autumn, apply 2 coats to the entire large pumpkin including the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with S-2708 Oriental Carmel, apply 2 coats to the top half of the pumpkin. Do not glaze the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-142 Grass, apply 2 coats to the entire medium pumpkin including the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with CG-716 Pagoda Green, apply 2 coats to the top half of the medium pumpkin. Do not glaze the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-101 Oyster Shell, apply 2 coats to the entire small pumpkin including the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with S-2726 Cheetah, apply 2 coats to the top half of the small pumpkin. Do not glaze the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 06.
Using the Liner with OG-801 Bright Gold, apply 1 even coat to the stems. Make sure to apply in a well-ventilated area. Clean brush with Gold Essence.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to
remove any dust.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 3 coats ofSW-505 Purple Gloss to the back side and entire front of the plate. Do not glaze the bottom or the foot. Let dry well.
Using the carbon paper and a pencil, transfer the pattern onto the platter.
Using the CB-106 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SW-508 Black Gloss to the house and the hill. Use the CB-404 #4 Pointed Round to get into any tight spaces.
Using the CB-404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 2 coats of SW-501 White Gloss to the windows of the house
Using the CB-404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 2 coats of SW-502 Yellow Gloss to the moon.
Using the CB-404 #4 Pointed Round, mix a small amount of SW-508 Black Gloss and SW-501White Gloss together on a plate to make gray. Apply 2 coats to the front of the tombstones.
Fill an AC-222 Large Bottle and Writer Tip with SW-508 Black Gloss and use it to fill in the bats, the sides of the tombstones and write RIP on each one.
Using the CB-106 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SW-165 Lavender Mist to the sky. Don’t apply tothe rim. Use a smaller brush if you wish to get into the tight areas around the house and moon.
Do not stilt or hang over the edge of the kiln shelf.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 3 coats to the koala. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with AC-302 Wax Resist, outline all of the facets. Apple 1 coat to the nose and eyes.
Using the Script Liner with SG-202 White Cobblestone, apply 1 coat to the inside of the ears and chest.
Using the Script Liner with SG-202 White Cobblestone, apply 2 coats to the rest of the koala. Work in sections to prevent over-drying between coats. The second coat should be applied as soon as the shine on the first coat is gone.
After the second coat of SG-202 White Cobblestone is dry, apply 1 coat of SC-35 Gray Hare to those sections.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze around 1 TBS SC-34 Down to Earth onto the palette. Thin with around 1 TSP of water. Using the Soft Fan, apply 1 coat to fawn. Use a damp sponge to wipe away most of the glaze, leaving it in the crevices.
Using the Script Liner with SC-86 Old Lace, apply 1 coat to the face, chest and tail. Apply a second coat and shade with SC-25 Crackerjack Brown.
Using the Script Liner with SC-48 Camel Back, apply 2 coats on the eyes, nose and hooves. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, make a pupil in the eye. Add a dot of SC-16 Cotton Tail after it dries.
Using the Script Liner with CG-79 Yadro Print, apply 2 coats to the rest of the fawn. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze around 1 TBS SC-15 Tuxedo onto the palette. Thin with around 1 TSP of water. Using the Soft Fan, apply 1 coat to the bunny. Use a damp sponge to wipe away most of the glaze, leaving it in the crevices.
Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the nose, eyes and tail. Add decorative dots going down the face and back. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, make lines 2 lines going down each foot.
Using the Soft Fan with CC-101 Transparent, apply 3 coats to the entire bunny. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 06.
Squeeze around 1 TSP SS-138 Flat Black onto the palette. Thin with around ½ TSP of water. Use the Soft Fan to apply 1 coat over the bunny. Wipe off with a damp sponge. You should be able to see the crackles in the glaze.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze around 1 TBS SC-15 Tuxedo onto the palette. Thin with around 1 TSP of water. Using the Soft Fan, apply 1 coat to the owl. Use a damp sponge to wipe away most of the glaze, leaving it in the crevices.
Use a pencil to sketch the designs on the owl.
Using the Script Liner with SC-9 Jaded, SC-10 Teal Next Time and SC-96 Aqu-ward, apply 2 coats to the different parts of the design. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the designs and add decorative lines and dots. Apply 2 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, make a dot in the center of each eye.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-216 Sea Glass, apply 2 coats to the owl. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper over the front of the plate. Trace the pattern using a pencil.
Using the RB-106 #6 Script Liner with SC-5 Tiger Tail, SC-9 Jaded, SC-15 Tuxedo, SC-42 Butter Me Up, SC-50 Orange-Ya-Happy, SC-60 Silver Lining and SC-81 Cinnamon Stix, apply 2 coats to the corresponding sections of the pattern.
Using the RB-110 10/0 Detail Liner with SC-5 Tiger Tail, make diagonal lines on the letter “F”. Use the handle of the brush with SC-50 Orange-Ya-Happy to make dots on the first letter “L”. Make dots on the second “L” with SC-81 Cinnamon Stix.
Using the RB-110 10/0 Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline each section of the pattern and add decorative lines.
Make a letter “A” in the pumpkin.
Using the RB-144 #4 Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the RB-144 #4 Soft Fan with SG-703 Speckta-Clear Autumn, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Cast the molds in usual manner.Allow Greenware to dry!Clean the greenware with a Clean-Up Tool.
Bisque fire to cone 04.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque.Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Glaze the inside of the Wooden Crate with Clear Glaze or your choice of any Color Gloss Glaze. Fire to shelf cone 06.
Using a Basecoat Brush, basecoat all the pieces with 1 – 2 coats of SS-24 Chocolate Fudge. Allow to dry!
Scarecrow Lid Topper
Using various size Drybrush’s, drybrush as follows – Face/Hands: SS-194 Medium Taupe then with SS-127 Medium Portrait.Highlight the Cheeks with SS-183 Rich Peach.
Drybrush the Shirt: SS-276 Forest Green then SS-19 Country Sage followed by SS-376 Limeburst.Highlight with SS-111 Brightest Yellow.
Drybrush the Pants: OS-541 Northern Blue then OS-459 Bright Blue Followed by OS-458 Wedgewood Blue.Highlight with SS-135 White.
Drybrush the Straw/Hair: Drybrush OS-471 Medium Brown then SS-254 Golden Ochre followed by SS-3 Honey toast.Highlight with SS-45 Buttermilk.
Drybrush the Pumpkin: OS-454 Rust then OS484 Persimmon followed by OS-438 Orange Peel.Highlight with SS-111 Brightest Yellow.
Drybrush the Hat: OS-481 Cinnamon then OS454 Rust Followed by OS-503 Barnyard Red.Highlight with SS-45 Buttermilk.
Drybrush the Shoes:OS-471 Medium Brown, Highlight with SS-45 Buttermilk.
Drybrush the Patches on Hat & Pants:Use various colors. Highlight with a lighter color or SS-45 Buttermilk.
Using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, Apply stripes to the shirt with SS-254 Golden Ocher and SS-45 Buttermilk.
Apply 1-2 coats of MM-102 Copper Metallic to the buttons on the pants.
Eyes – Using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, apply 1 – 2 coats of SS-135 White to the eye area. Iris of the eye is SS-29 Dew Drop Blue. Shade with OS-541 Northern Blue.Pupil and eyelashes are OS-476 Black.Add a highlight with SS-135 White.Allow to dry!
Float some SS-24 Chocolate Fudge in the deep crevices of the Scarecrow.Allow to dry!
Apply 2 coats of AS-494 Matte Sealer to the piece. Allow to dry!
Apply 2 coats of AS-493 Gloss Sealer to the eyes and buttons.Allow to dry!
DO NOT FIRE!
Straw/Leaves Lid
Using various size Drybrush’s, drybrush as follows –Straw: Drybrush OS-471 Medium Brown then SS-254 Golden Ochre followed by SS-3 Honey toast.Highlight with SS-45 Buttermilk.
Drybrush the Leaves on one side with SS-276 Forest Green then SS-19 Country Sage followed by SS-376 Limeburst.Highlight with SS-111 Brightest Yellow
On the other side of the leaf blend the two colors where they meet, drybrush with OS-454 Rust then OS484 Persimmon followed by OS-438 Orange Peel.Highlight with SS-111 Brightest Yellow.
Float some SS-24 Chocolate Fudge around the leaves.
Wooden Crate
Using a Basecoat Brush, Basecoat the wooden part of the crate with 1 – 2 coats of SS-24 Chocolate Fudge. Allow to dry!
Using various size Dry Brushes, Drybrush the crate with SS234 Medium Mocha then with SS212 Light Umber.
Bend in some SS-192 Light Taupe and SS-130 Medium Gray to make the woodgrain look old.
Basecoat the corners of the crate with SS-138 Flat Black.Drybrush with OS-475 Charcoal then OS-567 Ash.Highlight with SS-130 Medium Gray.Allow to dry!
Apply some MM-106 Steel Metallic on the center area of the corners.Allow to dry!
Mix some MM-305 Rapid rust into some MM-106 Steel Metallic and apply a second coat of the MM-106 Steel Metallic mix.
Using a CB-202 #2 Detail Liner, apply SS-138 Flat Black to the rivets on the corners.Allow to dry!
Float some SS-24 Chocolate Fudge in the deep crevices of the crate.
Apply 2 coats of AS-494 Matte Sealer to the outside of the crate. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to
remove any dust.
Using scissors, cut out the candy corn from the pattern.
Using the pen or marker, trace the candy corn onto the contact paper 8 times.
Using the scissors, cut out the 8 candy corns.
Remove the backing from each candy corn and adhere them to the bowl, making sure all the edges are sealed down well. If you space them slightly less than an inch apart you should be able to fit 8 around the circumference of the bowl near the top.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 3 coats of SW-140 to the inside and outside of the bowl.Do not glaze the bottom or the foot. Let dry.
When the glaze is no longer shiny but still a bit damp, use the skewer to gently lift up the edges of the contact paper candy corns and peel them off. If you got any glaze underneath the contact paper, you can use the pointed end of the skewer to scrape it off.
Using a pencil, draw in the lines on each candy corn to separate into 3 different sections.
Using the CB-404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 2 coats of SW-501 White Gloss to the top section of each candy corn.
Using the CB-404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 2 coats of SW-503 Orange Gloss to the middle section of each candy corn.
Using the CB-404 #4 Pointed Round, apply 2 coats of SW-502 Yellow Gloss to the bottom section of each candy corn.
Do not stilt or hang over the edge of the kiln shelf.
Cast the molds in usual manner.Allow Greenware to dry. Clean the greenware with a Clean-Up Tool.
Bisque fire to cone 04.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque.Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a Basecoat Brush, basecoat the Bird with 1 – 2 coats of SS-138 Flat Black.
Basecoat the Pine Boughs with SS-57 Accent Green and the Pine Cones with SS-24 Chocolate Fudge.
Basecoat the Greenery Lid with SS-57 Accent Green.Allow to dry!
Using various size Drybrush’s, drybrush as follows:
Birds body: OS-480 Garnet Red then OS-483 Real Red followed by OS-455 Holly Red.Highlight with OS-484 Persimmon.Highlight the Chest, Tail, cheeks and beak with SS-210 Orange.
Drybrush the Scarf with OS-468 Deep Turquoise then SS-217 Turquoise followed by lightly with OS-469 Light Turquoise then highlight with SS-135 White.
Drybrush the Tail & Top of Head with SS-138 Black.
Using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, add stripes on Scarf with SS-135 White.
Drybrush the Pine Cones with SS-234 Medium Mocha then with OS-471 Medium Brown.Highlight with OS-471 Medium Mocha and SS-45 Buttermilk in the brush.
Drybrush the Pine Boughs with SS-276 Forest Green then OS-488 Christmas Green followed by OS-466 Avocado.Highlight with SS-19 Country Sage.
Using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, paint the Legs/Feet & Eyes with SS-138 Flat Black with a little SS-135 White.
Greenery Lid – Drybrush Pine Boughs & Small Leaves with SS-276 Forest Green then SS-276 Forest Green with a little OS-488 Christmas Green in the brush. Drybrush the outer edges of Pine with OS488 Christmas Green followed by OS-466 Avocado.Highlight with SS-19 Country Sage.
Drybrush the Small Leaves with OS-466 Avocado then OS-466 Avocado with SS-45 Buttermilk in the brush.
Apply 2 coats of AC-502 Matte Sealer to both Songbird and Greenery Lid. Allow to dry!
Apply 2 coats of AC-501 Gloss Sealer to the Bird Eyes.Allow to dry!
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use a pencil to divide the mug and draw the carrot shapes.
Use a script liner to apply 3 coats of UG-85 Orange to fill in the carrots.
Use a script liner to apply 3 coats of UG-31 Chocolate to the dirt. *Do not layer the orange over the brown or you will get blistering. Chocolate fluxes at cone 6 so applying a not fluxing UG over it can create surface issues.*
Use a fan brush to apply 3 coats of UG-82 Tucson Turquoise to create the sky.
Fire to cone 04 to set UG. *This step is not 100% necessary, but is helpful when applying the Designer Liner.*
Use the SG-408 Orange to add details to the carrots, SG-405 Green to create the leaves, and SG-401 to create the outline.
Use a fan brush to apply 3 coats of SW-155 Winter Wood to the inside of the tumbler.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with CN-081 Light Wine, apply 2 coats to the front of the platter. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Allow final coat to dry to the touch, but not to bone dry.
Cut out a circle around the pineapple pattern. Place the pineapple on the tray and trace with the pencil. Repeat, moving and twisting the pattern, until the tray is full.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to each pineapple. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 2 coats to the body of each pineapple. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-26 Green Thumb, apply 1 coat to a few of the leaves on the top of each pineapple. Dip the brush in glaze and make 1 firm stroke for each leaf.
Allow glaze to dry completely.
Using FD-258 Pure White, squeeze a design on the body of each pineapple. You can use lines, dots or squiggles.
Using SG-401 White, outline the pineapples and make accent lines inside the green leaves. Make lines, dots or squiggles to fill in some of the background on the platter.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the back of the platter. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Print out 2 copies of the pattern. Cut along the vertical edge of one pattern and place it on top of the other pattern. Tape the 2 patterns together. You want to create one large pattern to fit your plate.
Take your pattern and place over the front of your plate. Trace with a pencil. Lift up your pattern to make sure you are using the right amount of pressure.
Squeeze out around 1 TBS of SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-27 Sour Apple and SP-211 Speckled Blue Yonder onto your palette.
Using the Script Liner, apply 3 coats of the glazes from Steps #5 & #6, to each bird. Try to space them out so you don’t have birds of the same color next to each other. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze around ½ TBS of SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-27 Sour Apple and SP-211 Speckled Blue Yonder on to a different section of your palette. Add 1-3 drops of SC-15 Tuxedo to each color. Mix to create a different shade of the original colors.
Cut out the wing pattern. Trace the pattern on your paper towel around 10 times and cut them out.
Using the Sponge on a stick, dip it in one of the glazes from Step #8. Sponge a paper towel wing and press it glaze side down onto one of the birds of the same base color. Press it down onto another bird, then discard. Repeat with all 3 colors until every bird has a wing.
Using the Detail liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the bottom side of the wings. Add a dot for the eyes and a triangle for the beaks. Make 2 lines for the legs. Refer to the sample picture for placement.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Print out 2 copies of the pattern. Cut along the vertical edge of one pattern and place it on top of the other pattern. Tape the 2 patterns together. You want to create one large pattern to fit your plate.
Take your pattern and place over the front of your plate. Trace with a pencil. Lift up your pattern to make sure you are using the right amount of pressure.
Squeeze out around 1 TBS of SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-13 Grapel, SC-27 Sour Apple and SP-275 Speckled Orange-A-Peel onto your palette.
Squeeze out around ½ TBS of SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-13 Grapel, SC-27 Sour Apple and SP-275 Speckled Orange-A-Peel onto a different section of your palette. Then add ½ TBS of SC-16 Cotton Tail to each of those glazes. Mix to created to tint the original colors.
Using the Script Liner, apply 3 coats of the glazes from Steps #5 & #6, to each bird. Try to space them out so you don’t have birds of the same color next to each other. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze around ½ TBS of SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-13 Grapel, SC-27 Sour Apple and SP-275 Speckled Orange-A-Peel on to a different section of your palette. Add 1-3 drops of SC-15 Tuxedo to each color. Mix to create a different shade of the original colors.
Cut out the wing pattern. Trace the pattern on your paper towel around 10 times and cut them out.
Using the Sponge on a stick, dip it in one of the glazes from Step #8. Sponge a paper towel wing and press it glaze side down onto one of the birds of the same base color. Press it down onto another bird, then discard. Repeat with all 3 colors until every bird has a wing.
Using the Detail liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the bottom side of the wings. Add a dot for the eyes and a triangle for the beaks. Make 2 lines for the legs. Refer to the sample picture for placement.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Roll clay out into a slab that is about 1/8” thick and compress with rib
Using a fettling knife cut base tile shape to your desired size and save extra slab pieces
Use extra slabs to create hills in the foreground and middle ground of your image by flattening them more with your hands and cutting them to size
Slip and score to attach pieces to base slab
Roll out multiple coils to create tree design and attach by slipping as scoring
Add additional texture details to slab with your pencil by drawing in lines or creating a “hammered metal” texture in the sky
Allow tile to dry slowly
Once fully dry, bisque fore to Cone 04
Glaze:
Wipe down bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dust
Using a soft bristled brush, apply 3 coats of FN-37 Chartreuse to the hill in the background, allowing glaze to dry in between coats
Using the same glazing technique, apply 3 coats of FN-7 Green to the middle ground hill and 3 coats of FN-21 Olive Green to the hill in the foreground
Apply 3 coats of FN-212 Blue Dimond to the sky, 3 coats of FN-29 Rich Chocolate to the tree truck and branches and 3 coats of FN-21 Olive Green to the tree’s leaves
Allow to dry completely
Glaze fire to Cone 06
Form
LEM100 1.5 lbs Low-fire White Clay
Colors
FN-212 Bule Dimond
FN-21 Olive Green
FN-7 Green
FN-37 Chartreuse
FN-29 Rich Chocolate
Miscellaneous Accessories
Water
Sponge
Fettling knife
Pencil
Slab roller or rolling pin
Rib
Brushes for glazing
Lesson Plan|Low-Fire|Earthenware Bisque|Garden|Table Top
Draw in a different repetitive pattern or mark in each section until your plate is fully covered in designs
Assign different colors to different sections of your zen tangle
Using the designer liner in supplied bottle with writer tip, trace lines with designer liner
Once designer liner lines are dry, use a wet brush to pull color from the lines to add a lighter background color to your design- looking similar to watercolor
To add more color- squirt a small amount if the designer liner on your palette, with a wet brush pick up some color and apply to design
Allow design to dry fully
Apply 2 coats of brushing S-2101 – clear glaze to plate
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use a soft fan to apply 1 coat of SW-304 Copper Wash over the texture of the mug. Allow to dry and wipe back over the texture with a damp sponge, leaving the product in the low points.
Use a soft fan to apply 2 coats of PC-602 White Cascade around the lip of the mug.
Use a soft fan to apply 3 coats of EL-103 Sea Spray to the entire mug.
Allow to dry completely.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Note: Washes (SW301-305) are the only SW# glazes that can be used at low fire (cone 06). We do not recommend any other SW glazes be used at cone 06.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Mix a bit of SW-301 Iron Wash with the AC-310 Silkscreen Medium to thicken the product until it has lost a hint of its gloss and is about the consistency of peanut butter.
Use a soft fan to apply 1 coat of SW-301 Iron Wash to the inside of the bowl.
Use a soft fan to apply 3 coats of EL-145 Giner Root to the entire bowl.
Allow to dry completely.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Note: Washes (SW301-305) are the only SW# glazes that can be used at low fire (cone 06). We do not recommend any other SW glazes be used at cone 06.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use a soft fan to apply 1 coat of SW-305 Cobalt Blue Wash over the texture of the mug. Allow to dry and wipe back over the texture with a damp sponge, leaving the product in the low points.
Use a soft fan to apply 3 coats of EL-146 Rain Cloud to the entire mug.
Allow to dry completely.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Note: Washes (SW301-305) are the only SW# glazes that can be used at low fire (cone 06). We do not recommend any other SW glazes be used at cone 06.
In the 4 oz. jar mix 1 part UG-57 Spice Brown with 1 part UG-213 Cinnamon. Stir and shake well to make sure the color is blended well.
To the well cleaned greenware apply 3 coats of the Fundamental UG mixture using CB-604 Soft Fan.
Fire to Shelf Cone 04.
On a tile mix 3 parts FN-001 White with 1 part FD-298 Pure White. Mix well with a Pallet Knife. Using a dampened Mediterranean Sponge apply 2-3 coats to the entire piece. The glaze surface should have a high-low texture to it after applying the glaze coats. There should be no bare spots showing the underlying color to peak through. Let dry.
Use the pattern as your guide to paint in the design with the noted Stroke and Coat colors using CB-404 Pointed Round. Place the colors out separately onto a tile and thin with a drop or two of water for brushability. The SC-36 Irish Luck should be thinned to an ink like consistency for painting.TIP: Here are some of the major points when painting the pattern. The shading on the pumpkin has a highlight of SC-39 on the top portions of the sections. Two coats of SC-23 Jack O’Lantern is best with the darker orange color towards the bottom of the pumpkin sections. The leaves have the darkest colors up next to the gourds and pumpkin. Berries have a highlight made with a water moistened brush to rub out a highlight. Pear shaped gourd has the lighter green towards the stem and darker gold color towards the bottom. The acorn squash has the teal color towards the bottom with the dark green towards the top. The acorn leaves are green towards the center with the tips the lighter golds/oranges. The teardrop leaves have the thinned red color to one side with the dark green on the other half, overlap the colors to blend. Let dry.
Use SG-406 Brown to detail the pattern keeping the lines as fine as possible.
Thin some SG-406 Brown with water to a milk consistency. Use the Spatter Brush or Old Stiff Toothbrush to spatter the ware. Let dry.
Apply 1 coat of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing using CB-604 Soft Fan.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 3 coats of SW-128 Cordovan to the front and back of the pie plate, including the bottom.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 3 coats of SW-128 Cordovan to the front and back of the dessert bowl, including the bottom but leave the top lip unglazed. You will be firing this upside down so the lip is what will be touching the kiln shelf.
Place the Clay Carbon paper underneath the pattern and line up the center ‘star’ of the pattern with the center of the pie plate. Trace the pattern onto the plate. Use the pencil to extend the lines up the side of the pie plate and down the back.
Flip the Dessert Bowl upside down and use the pencil to draw similar lines onto the back, using the pattern as a guide.
Using the CB-604 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SW-108 Green Tea to the ‘U’ sections of the plate. Use the notations on the pattern as a guide. Start at the U and fill in the whole section, continuing down the back side of the plate.
Using the CB-604 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SW-131 Birch to the section next to the Green Tea, leaving about 1/8 inch gap between the two colors. Follow the lines to apply the glaze up the front side and down the back.
Using the CB-604 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SW-180 Desert Dusk to the rest of the plate, front and back, leaving a 1/8 inch gap between this color and the Birch.
Use the Script Liner to apply the Green Tea, Birch, and Desert Dusk to the back of the Dessert Bowl in the same order.
Turn the Dessert Bowl upside down and place it in the kiln. Make sure you wipe away any glaze that may have gotten on the rim. Place the pie plate on top of the bowl, ensuring that the center of the pie plate is resting on the bottom of the bowl. When fired, they will fuse together.
Do not stilt or hang over the edge of the kiln shelf.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze around 1 TSP SC-34 Down to Earth onto the palette. Thin with a few drops of water. Using the Soft Fan, apply 1 coat to the koala. Use a damp sponge to wipe away most of the glaze, leaving it in the crevices.
Using the Script Liner with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, SC-9 Jaded, SC-51 Poo Bear, SC-80 Basketball, SC-92 Café Ole and SC-96 Aqu-ward apply 2 coats to the facets on the koala. Try not to glaze facets that share a side with the same color.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15, make dashes between the facets. Add pupils to the eyes.
Dip into NT-CLR Clear Dipping Glaze.
Fire to cone 06.
Bunny
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze around 1 TSP SC-34 Down to Earth onto the palette. Thin with a few drops of water. Using the Soft Fan, apply 1 coat to the bunny. Use a damp sponge to wipe away most of the glaze, leaving it in the crevices.
Using the Script Liner with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, SC-9 Jaded, SC-51 Poo Bear, SC-80 Basketball, SC-92 Café Ole and SC-96 Aqu-ward apply 2 coats to the facets on the bunny. Try not to glaze facets that share a side with the same color.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15, outline the facets. Then add decorative dots, dashes, lines and squiggles inside some of the facets. Add pupils to the eyes.
Dip into NT-CLR Clear Dipping Glaze.
Fire to cone 06.
Fawn
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze around 1 TSP SC-34 Down to Earth onto the palette. Thin with a few drops of water. Using the Soft Fan, apply 1 coat to fawn. Use a damp sponge to wipe away most of the glaze, leaving it in the crevices.
Use the pencil to sketch overlapping shapes on the fawn. Make them various sizes.
Using the Script Liner with SC-92 Café Ole, apply 2 coats to the feet, tail and eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, SC-96 Aqu-ward, SC-80 Basketball, SC-51 Poo Bear, SC-92 Café Ole and SC-9 Jaded, apply 2 coats each of your shapes. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Use the color in that order (lightest to darkest coverage).
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15, loosely outline your shapes. Then add decorative dots, dashes, lines and squiggles inside some of the shapes. Add pupils to the eyes.
Dip into NT-CLR Clear Dipping Glaze.
Fire to cone 06.
Owl
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze around 1 TSP SC-34 Down to Earth onto the palette. Thin with a few drops of water. Using the Soft Fan, apply 1 coat to the owl. Use a damp sponge to wipe away most of the glaze, leaving it in the crevices.
Use a pencil to sketch a rainbow with 5 sections on the belly of the owl.
Using the Script Liner with SC-80 Basketball, SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, SC-51 Poo Bear, SC-96 Aqu-ward and SC-9 Jaded, apply 2 coats to each section of the rainbow. Start on the outer section and work your way to the middle using the glaze in that order.
Using the Script Liner with SC-92 Café Ole, apply 2 coats to the facets on the feet, beak and inner eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, SC-9 Jaded, SC-51 Poo Bear, SC-80 Basketball, SC-92 Café Ole and SC-96 Aqu-ward apply 2 coats to the rest of the facets on the owl. Try not to glaze facets that share a side with the same color.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15, outline the rainbow with lines, dots or dashes. Add decorative lines or dots to the eyes and wings.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 2 coats to the front and sides of the canvas. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Place AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper over the front of the canvas. Trace the pattern using the pencil.
Using the Script Liner with CG-756 Firecracker, CG-954 Wildfire, S-2729 Citrus Splash, CG-979 Meadow, CG-718 Blue Caprice, S-2703 Berryberry Pie and S-2723 Grape Divine, apply 2 coats to each section of the rainbow. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Liner with SC-15 apply 1 coat to the lettering. Make lines between each sections of the rainbow. They can be solid lines, dots or dashes.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze around 1 TBS of SC-73 Candy Apple Red, SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-27 Sour Apple, SC-11 Blue Yonder and SC-33 Fruit of the Vine onto the palette. Use water to thin each color.
Using the Soft Fan with thinned SC-73 Candy Apple Red, apply 1 coat to the head and front feet. Using the same brush, apply each of the colors from Step #2 in order, blending as you work your way to the back of the unicorn.
After the glaze is completely dry, use SG-402 White to outline the facets.
Using the Soft Fan with S-2101 Clear Brushing, apply 2 coats to the entire unicorn. Or dip into NT-CLR Clear Dipping.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-134 Mirror Blue, apply 1 coat to each pumpkin. Do not glaze the stems. Use a damp sponge to wipe off most of the glaze, leaving it only in the crevices.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-136 Lapis Lagoon, apply 2 coats to the pumpkins. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Do not glaze the stems.
Fire to cone 06.
Using the Flat Shader with MM-105 Gold Metallic, apply 2 coats to the stems. Allow paint to dry between coats.
Using the Flat Shader with AC-501 Gold Metallic, apply 2 thin coats to the stems. Allow paint to dry between coats
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use a soft fan to apply 2 coats of SP-288 Speckled TuTu Tango in a band around the rim – about 1”-1.5” wide. Be sure to brush the coats out well and not glob them on with this particular color. It can get some texture at cone 6 if it is applied thick.
Use a fan brush to apply 2 coats of SW-100 Blue Surf to outside of the bowl, avoiding the bottom and to the inside, slightly overlapping the Speckled TuTu Tango. The thinner the application, the more green will appear, the thicker the application, the more blue.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use a script Liner to apply 3 bands that are evenly spaced from the neck of the vase down. You will want to apply 3 coats of glaze to each.
Use a fan brush to apply 2 coats of SW-166 Norse Blue to the entire vase. (You may want to roll the glaze on the inside of the vase by thinning a small portion of glaze with water. It should be about the consistency of heavy cream)
Use a fan brush to apply 2 coats of SW-153 Indigo Rain to the outside of the vase. Note the crystal concentration near the bottom of the vase, which can enhance mobility. Recede your last coat if necessary.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque.Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use a soft fan to apply 3 coats of SW-109 Capri Blue to the inside and the top section of the outside of the bowl.
Apply dots of SW-305 Cobalt Wash around the bottom of the Capri Blue section.
Use a soft fan to apply 3 coats of SW-187 Himalayan Salt to the bottom section of the bowl, overlapping the Cobalt Wash slightly and avoiding the bottom. Recede the coats at the bottom of the piece to avoid possible glaze run off.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque.Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use a soft fan to apply 3 coats of SW-140 Black Matte to the inside and the top section of the outside of the bowl.
Apply design details using SG-401 Black Designer Liner.
Use a soft fan to apply 3 coats of SW-187 Himalayan Salt to the bottom section of the bowl, overlapping the Black Matte slightly and avoiding the bottom. Recede the coats at the bottom of the piece to avoid possible glaze run off.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque.Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use a fan brush to apply 2 coats of SW-117 Honeycomb to the bottom section and handle of the mug.
Apply 2 coats of SW-189 Cenote to the rest of the mug, but be sure to leave about ½”-1” near the bottom to allow for movement. (Layering 2 crystals glazes together can potentially cause movement depending on the thickness and crystal concentration. We suggest allowing some space for this movement by leaving space near the bottom without a combo)
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque.Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use a soft fan to apply 3 coats of SW-107 Dunes to the outside of the tumbler, avoiding the bottom.
Use sponge on a stick to apply SW-301 Iron Wash to the MT-002 Wood Grain Mat – be sure to dab excess product off before applying it to the mat and apply it on a flat surface.
Carefully pick the mat up with you hand and transfer the design onto the tumbler. Press firmly, but do not pull or slide your hand across the mat. Repeat until the tumbler is covered.
Use a soft fan to apply 3 coats of SW-203 Root beer to the inside of the tumbler and just rolling over the lip.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque.Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use a soft fan brush to apply 1 or 2 swirls of SW-301 IronWash to the inside and outside of the bowl. If the swirls overlap creating 2 coats, more brown variation will appear.
Use a soft fan brush to apply 3 coats of SW-169 Frosted Lemon to the entire bowl, avoiding the bottom.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque.Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use a soft fan to apply 2 coats of SW-121 Smoke as a swirled brushstroke across or around the plate. We applied ours on a banding wheel to apply a swift swirl.
Pour or splatter some SW-128 Cordovan to the face of the plate. We applied our along our swirl.
Use a fan brush to apply 3 coats of SW-176 Sandstone to the face of the plate.
Use a fan brush and script liner to apply 3 coats of SW-128 Cordovan to the rim and back of the plate, avoiding the bottom.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque.Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply masking tape in your desired pattern.
Use a fan brush to apply 1 coat of SW-302 Rutile wash to the outside of the vase.
Remove the tape and apply 3 coats of SW-128 Cordovan to the entire vase, avoiding the bottom. (You may want to roll the glaze on the inside of the vase by thinning a small portion of glaze with water. It should be about the consistency of heavy cream)
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque.Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use a fan brush to apply 2 coats of SW-181 Night Moth to the outside of the mug, avoiding the bottom.
Once dry, apply 2 coats of SW-189 Cenote over the Night Moth, but only bring one coat all the way down and be sure to leave about 1/4“-1/2” near the bottom for the second coat. (Layering 2 crystals glazes together can potentially cause movement depending on the glaze performance, thickness, and crystal concentration. We suggest allowing some space for this movement by leaving space near the bottom)
Use a fan brush and script liner to apply 3 coats of SW-508 Black Gloss to the inside and handle.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque.Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply the SG-401 Designer Liner Black in circles or a design of your choice.
Use a script liner to apply 3 coats of SW-303 Manganese Wash to the rim.
Use a soft fan to apply 3 coats of SC-77 Glo-Worm to the outside of the bowl, avoiding the bottom, and just over the rim overlapping the manganese wash.
Use a soft fan to apply 3 coats of SW-201 Turquoise to the inside of the bowl.
Use a clean sponge to wipe the excess glaze off of the foot.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
MB-1567 Tall Knit Pumpkin
Using the Soft Fan with EL-118 Blue Grotto, apply 2 coats to the large pumpkin. Do not glaze the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-103 Sea Spray, apply 2 coats to the large pumpkin. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Recede the last coat by around ½” to prevent dripping. Do not glaze the stem.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-131 Turtle Shell, apply 2 coats to the medium pumpkin. Do not glaze the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-42 Butter Me Up, apply 2 coats to the stems. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 06.
Using the Liner with OG-801 Bright Gold, apply 1 even coat to the stems. Make sure to apply in a well-ventilated area. Clean brush with Gold Essence.
Fire to Cone 018.
MB-1568 Round Hammered Pumpkin
Using the Soft Fan with EL-131 Turtle Shell, apply 2 coats to the medium pumpkin. Do not glaze the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-103 Sea Spray, apply 2 coats to the medium pumpkin. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-42 Butter Me Up, apply 2 coats to the stems. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 06.
Using the Liner with OG-801 Bright Gold, apply 1 even coat to the stems. Make sure to apply in a well-ventilated area. Clean brush with Gold Essence.
Fire to cone 018.
MB-1043 Squatty Pumpkin
Using the Soft Fan with EL-144 Dark Amethyst, apply 2 coats to the small pumpkin. Do not glaze the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-101 Oyster Shell, apply 2 coats to the small pumpkin. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Recede the last coat by around ½” to prevent dripping. Do not glaze the stem.
Using the Script Liner with SC-42 Butter Me Up, apply 2 coats to the stems. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 06.
Using the Liner with OG-801 Bright Gold, apply 1 even coat to the stems. Make sure to apply in a well-ventilated area. Clean brush with Gold Essence.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-013 Light Yellow, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats. (Seminar teaching – glaze the back of the plate last so that the front dries quicker. When painting front and back it traps moisture in the bisque and slows the drying process.)
If the front of your plate is completely dry, place AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper on top of it. Then place the pattern on top and trace with a pencil. If the glaze is not completely dry, just place the pattern on top and trace with a pencil. Check to make sure you are pressing just enough to see the pattern in the glaze.
Using the Script Liner with SC-2 Melon-Choly, SC-9 Jaded, SC-10 Teal Next Time, SC-45 My Blue Heaven and SC-89 Cutie Pie Coral, apply 2 coats to the corresponding section of the pattern. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the pattern. Use the Script Liner to make lines and dots going around the rim of the plate.
Squeeze around 1 TSP of SC-15 Tuxedo onto the palette. Thin slightly with water. Dip the toothbrush in the glaze. Hold the brush, bristle side down over the plate. Run the bristles across your thumb to splatter the glaze on the front of the plate. Do as little or as much to your liking.
Fire to cone 06.
Foundations Sheer
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper over the front of the plate. Then place the pattern on top and trace with a pencil.
Using the Script Liner with SC-2 Melon-Choly, SC-9 Jaded, SC-10 Teal Next Time, SC-45 My Blue Heaven and SC-89 Cutie Pie Coral, apply 2 coats to the corresponding section of the pattern. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the pattern. Use the Script Liner to make lines and dots going around the plate rim.
Squeeze around 1 TSP of SC-15 Tuxedo onto the palette. Thin slightly with water. Dip the toothbrush in the glaze. Hold the brush, bristle side down over the plate. Run the bristles across your thumb to splatter the glaze on the front of the plate. Do as little or as much to your liking.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 2 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-209 Floral Pink, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate, over the design. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 06.
Foundations Matte
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-301 Marshmallow White, apply 3 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
If the front of your plate is completely dry, place AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper on top of it. Then place the pattern on top and trace with a pencil. If the glaze is not completely dry, just place the pattern on top and trace with a pencil. Check to make sure you are pressing just enough to see the pattern in the glaze.
Using the Script Liner with SC-2 Melon-Choly, SC-9 Jaded, SC-10 Teal Next Time, SC-45 My Blue Heaven and SC-89 Cutie Pie Coral, apply 2 coats to the corresponding section of the pattern. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the pattern. Use the Script Liner to make lines and dots going around the plate rim.
Squeeze around 1 TSP of SC-15 Tuxedo onto the palette. Thin slightly with water. Dip the toothbrush in the glaze. Hold the brush, bristle side down over the plate. Run the bristles across your thumb to splatter the glaze on the front of the plate. Do as little or as much to your liking.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 2 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Trace the pattern on to the ware using provided pattern, clay carbon and pencil (red pencil is helpful).
Lightly damp sponge the ware to remove any dust and to condition the piece for decorating. The pattern will not be harmed by the sponging.
Place the EZ-Stroke colors onto the palette and thin if needed with a drop or two of water and mix with palette knife.
Leaves are completed as follows:
Fully load #6 Round with Leaf Green, side load with Yellow Orange, the other side with Ivy Green and tip with Passion Red.
Starting at the base of leaf and working toward the tip, press firmly, pull and lift each leaf in place. Note: the harder the round is pressed against the ware the wider the stroke.
For larger leaves, two side by side strokes will be needed.
Reload the Round as needed; leaves will appear different in coloration, with some being more yellow or redder. Variety is important to the design.
Allow some drying time.
Additional shading is added randomly with a float of Passion Red and/or Ivy Green. To float in the color; water dampen the Round, then pull one side of Round through desired color and blend on palette. Add shading between overlapping leaves and under the one turnback.
Flowers are completed with #10/0 Detail Liner using Passion Red, Poppy Orange and Yellow Orange. If needed, add a few drops of water to each color and mix. When using a Liner, colors should be slightly thinner than normal. All flowers are completed in the same colors and manner.
Fully load Liner with Yellow Orange, for the side view flower work from the calyx, for the full view flower work from the center pulling out multiple very fine lines. Some lines can have a slight curve but for the most part the lines are straight.
Proceed to repeat the process with Poppy Orange, adding additional fine lines.
Continue adding fine lines with Passion Red. Pull in plenty of these fine Passion Red lines for the River Red Gum flowers are vibrant in their red coloration.
With both Passion Red and Poppy Orange loaded onto the Liner, tap in fine dots to the outer edges of each flower, thus denoting pollen.
To the centers of the full view flowers, stipple in both Yellow Orange and Poppy Orange.
The calyx to the side view flowers are pulled with #6 Round that has been loaded with Leaf Green, side loaded with Ivy Green and tipped slightly in Passion Red. Press and pull the Round forming the shaded calyx. Two small strokes are recommended.
For the stems and detailing of the leaves a new color needs to be created. To make a more bold and brownish color place Ivy Green on palette. Pick up some Passion Red on a palette knife, add to Ivy Green and mix. Keep adding more Passion Red until a deep greenish brown is produced. Note: to achieve brown tones you can mix two complimentary colors together.
Thin the mix as needed and fully load #10/0 Liner and pull in the stems.
Outline the leaves with thick and thin broken lines using the same mix of green and red. For the center and side veins pull in smoother flowing lines. The calyx is also shaded and detailed with the same mix of color.
Sign the piece
Fire the piece to shelf cone 04 – 06 to set the color.
Lightly damp sponge ware to remove any fired dust and to condition the piece for decorating.
Thin 2 ounces or more of Bright Straw with water to a cream like consistency and mix thoroughly.
Pour the mix into the ware and roll the inside with color. Drain off the excess and remove any drips or runs from the outside of ware with damp sponge.
Set aside to dry.
To the inside of ware brush on one coat of Pure Brilliance using Glaze Fan.
To the outside of the vase apply 2 to 3 coats of Pure Brilliance. Note the sample has three coats.
Stilt the ware and fire to shelf cone 06.
Remove stilt marks with Dremel Tool or Stilt Stone.
Form
MB-1145 Flat Tulip Vase or CD-1145 Flat Tulip Vase Mold
Colors
Duncan
EZ026 Yellow Orange
EZ028 Leaf Green
EZ033 Ivy Green
EZ058 Poppy Orange
EZ075 Passion Red
CN012 Bright Straw
PG Pure Brilliance Clear Glaze
Decorating Accessories
RB-144 #4 Soft Fan
RB 116 #6 Round
RB 110 10/0 Detail Liner
AC-230 Clay Carbon Transfer Paper
Miscellaneous Supplies
Sponge
Palette Knife
Glazed tile for palette or heavy duty page protector
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour around 1/4 cup EL-151 Deep Water into the disposable cup. Thin with around 1 TBS of water. The glaze should be easily poured. Pour the glaze into the vase and rotate the inside. Place upside down on a few paper towels for a minute. Turn the vase over and wipe off any excess glaze with a damp sponge.
Squeeze around 1 TBS of SC-15 Tuxedo onto the palette. Place the stamp down on a flat surface, textured side up. Dip the sponge on a stick in the glaze and sponge the stamp. Take the stamp and press it vertically on the lower half of the vase. Repeat until the lower half is covered.
Using the Script Liner with SC-2 Melon-Choly, apply 1 coat to the flowers made by the stamp.
Using the Script Liner with SC-26 Green Thumb and SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 1 coat to the leaves made by the stamp.
Using the Soft Fan with NT-BR Clear One Brushing, apply 2 coats over the bottom half of the vase, including the bottom. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-151 Deep Water, PC-601 Clear Cascades, EL-151 Deep Water and PC-602 White Cascades, apply 1 coat of each glaze to the upper half of the vase, in that order. Make sure glaze is dry between each coat.
Wipe down bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dust or debris
Using a soft fan brush apply 3 coats of Poo Bear (SC-51) to the pants and hat leaving a few facets on the hat empty for the patches.
Allow each coat to dry before applying the next coat
Apply 3 coats of Blue Yonder (SC-11) to the shirt also leaving a few facets empty for patches
Using a pointed round apply 3 coats of Cant-elope (SC-97) to the empty patches on the hat and 3 coats of The Blues (SC-31) to the empty patched on the shirt
Apply 3 coats of Pink-A-Boo (SC-01) to the nose and hands
Apply 3 coats of Tuxedo (SC-15) to the shoes
Using a mini liner, line patches and features with Tuxedo and add stitch marks to the patches
Wipe any glaze away from the bottom of the piece and the beard
Fire to Cone 06
Note: do not dip in clear glaze. Beard, bottom and inside must be unglazed to grow chia seeds on
Plant:
Once fired, submerge your gnome in water and let soak for at least 30 minutes
While your plater is soaking, in a separate bowl or cup, mix 2 teaspoons of chia seeds with ¼ cup of water. Stir thoroughly and let stand for 10 minutes. The mixture should form into a gel-like paste.
Empty the water from your submerged gnome and place a small sponge inside the piece, be sure that the sponge sits inside the beard area- this will help your planter hold moisture
Place gnome on plate or drip tray
Using your finger, apply an even coat of seeds to the beard of the gnome
Let gnome and seeds dry untouched for 2 days
On day 3 water your gnome by flipping it upside down and filling the inside with water
You may need to water a few times at first to get the sponge fully hydrated
Cover the bottom of the gnome with your drip tray and flip it back over to hold the water in
Refresh water everyday
Chia seed should start to grow within 2-3 days
Enjoy your chia gnome for 2-4 weeks
Once chias start to die out you can remove seeds, wash off your gnome and re-plant in soil.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 1 coat to the front of the canvas.
After the glaze is dry to the touch, place the pattern on top and trace with the pencil. Lift up the pattern to make sure you’re using the correct amount of pressure.
Squeeze around SC-24 Dandelion, SC-28 Blue Isle, SC-45 My Blue Heaven and SC-88 Tu Tu Tango onto the palette. Create Color Mix #1 and Color Mix #2 by mixing ½ TBS of each color (listed in color section). Label the colors on your palette – they will look similar.
Using the Script Liner with colors from the previous step, apply 2 coats to the corresponding section of the pattern. Refer to the pattern for color placement. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using Sgraffito Tool or Sharp Skewer, trace over the lines of the pattern. You should end up with white lines separating the different colors.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-702 Celebration, apply 2 coats over the front of the canvas. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the edges of the canvas.
Fire to cone 06.
Form
MB-1353 8×10” Clay Canvas
Colors
FN-001 White
SC-15 Tuxedo
SC-24 Dandelion
SC-28 Blue Isle
SC-45 My Blue Heaven
SC-88 Tu Tu Tango
SG-702 Celebration
Color Mix #1 (SC-24 Dandelion + SC-88 Tu Tu Tango 1:1)
Color Mix #2 (SC-28 Blue Isle + SC-45 My Blue Heaven 1:1)
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 1 coat to the front of the canvas.
After the glaze is dry to the touch, place the pattern on top and trace with the pencil. Lift up the pattern to make sure you’re using the correct amount of pressure.
Squeeze around 1 TBS of SC-14 Java Bean, SC-34 Down to Earth, SC-41 Brown Cow and SC-48 Camel Back onto the palette. Create Color Mix #1 and Color Mix #2 by mixing ½ TBS of each color (listed in color section). Label the colors on your palette – they will look similar.
Using the Script Liner with colors from the previous step, apply 2 coats to the corresponding section of the pattern. Refer to the pattern for color placement. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using Sgraffito Tool or Sharp Skewer, trace over the lines of the pattern. You should end up with white lines separating the different colors.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-703 Autumn, apply 2 coats over the front of the canvas. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the edges of the canvas.
Fire to cone 06.
Form
MB-1353 8×10” Clay Canvas
Colors
FN-001 White
SC-14 Java Bean
SC-15 Tuxedo
SC-34 Down to Earth
SC-41 Brown Cow
SC-48 Camel Back
SG-703 Autumn
Color Mix #1 (SC-14 Java Bean + SC-34 Down to Earth 1:1)
Color Mix #2 (SC-41 Brown Cow + SC-48 Camel Back 1:1)
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Freehand a fun design or position Pattern #1 on top of the platter. Slide AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper under the pattern. Trace the pattern with a pencil.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to the right side of the tray. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, apply 2 coats to the left side of the try. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-9 Jaded, SC- 45 My Blue Heaven and SC-77 Glo-Worm, apply 2 coats to the corresponding sections of the pattern. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
After the glaze is dry to the touch, place Pattern #2 over the tray. Trace over the pattern with a pencil. Lift the pattern to make sure you aren’t pressing too lightly or too hard.
Using the Script Liner with SC-9 Jaded, SC-10 Teal Next Time, SC-45 My Blue Heaven and SC-77 Glo-Worm, apply 2 coats to the corresponding sections of the pattern. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply decorative lines and dots to the pattern. You can use a pencil eraser to make dots.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the back of the platter. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze approximately 2 TBS of SC-34 Down to Earth on the palette. Thin with around 1 TSP of water. Using the Soft Fan, apply 1 coat to each pumpkin. Using a damp sponge, wipe off most of the glaze, leaving it only in the crevices.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-54 Vanilla Dip, apply 2 coats to the small pumpkin. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-96 Aqu-ward, apply 2 coats to the medium pumpkin. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-50 Orange Ya Happy, apply 2 coats to the large pumpkin. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-25 Crackerjack Brown, apply 2 coats to the stems. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use AC-230 Clay Carbon Transfer Paper to transfer a pattern to the middle section of the dish. You may trace the patterns to the rest of the dish, but it will look more natural if it is drawn in with pencil to reflect to contour of the dish.
Use a detail liner brush to fill in 3 coats of each Stoneware Gloss color.
Use a fan brush to apply 3 coats of SW-502 Yellow to the back of the dish.
Use a clean sponge to wipe excess glaze off the foot.
Apply 1 coats of UG-50 to the entire piece and wipe back with a sponge, leaving the underglaze in the details/texture.
Once dry, use the CB-624 #4 glaze fan to apply 3 coats of EL-118 Blue Grotto to the background and sun rays. Using a stiff brush will help apply the glaze into the texture without applying it too thick. Be sure to fully brush out the coats to avoid pooling of the glaze in the texture.
Use the script liner to apply 3 coats of EL-128 Wheat to the face and sun rays.
Allow to dry completely.
Stilt and fire to cone 06/05. Sample was fired to cone 06.
Apply 1 coats of UG-50 to the entire piece and wipe back with a sponge, leaving the underglaze in the details/texture.
Once dry, use the CB-624 #4 glaze fan to apply 3 coats of EL-118 Blue Grotto to the entire piece. Using a stiff brush will help apply the glaze into the texture without applying it too thick. Be sure to fully brush out the coats to avoid pooling of the glaze in the texture.
Use the script liner to apply 2 coats of PC-602 White Cascade to the wind.
Apply 1 coat of EL-101 Oyster to highlighted areas.
Allow to dry completely.
Stilt and fire to cone 06/05. Sample was fired to cone 06
Apply 1 coats of UG-50 to the entire piece and wipe back with a sponge, leaving the underglaze in the details/texture.
Once dry, use the fan to apply 2 coats of EL-132 Rust Red to the outside layer of flames. Do not be too precise about the edge of the color. You will want this to overlap a bit with the next to create a smooth transition.
Use the fan to apply 3 coats of EL-133 Autumn to the next layer of flames. Again, do not be too precise about the edge of the color.
Apply 2 coats of EL-107 Amber Ash to the face, overlapping with the edge of the Autumn.
Repeat the previous step, but with EL-128 Wheat.
Allow to dry completely.
Stilt and fire to cone 06/05. Sample was fired to cone 06.
Apply 1 coats of UG-50 to the entire piece and wipe back with a sponge, leaving the underglaze in the details/texture.
Once dry, use the CB-624 #4 glaze fan to apply 3 coats of EL-142 Grass to all of the leaves. Using a stiff brush will help apply the glaze into the texture without applying it too thick. Be sure to fully brush out the coats to avoid pooling of the glaze in the texture.
Use the script liner to apply 3 coats of EL-110 Mudslide on the face.
Allow to dry completely.
Stilt and fire to cone 06/05. Sample was fired to cone 06.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Antique the Gnome Facetini with sC-14 Java Bean.
Paint 2 coats of SC-16 Cotton Tail on the beard.
Paint 2 coats of your choice of skin tone on the nose and hands. This sample is painted
with SC-5 Tiger Tail.
Paint 2 watery coats of the following colors on the different facets on the hat: SC-77 Glo-worm, SC-78 Lime Light, and SC-27 Sour Apple. Alternate colors.
Paint 2 watery coats of SC-26 Green Thumb on his shirt and pants
Paint 3 coats of SC-16 Cotton Tail on the daisy petals.
Paint 2 coats of SC-6 Sunkissed on the daisy middles.
Paint 3 coats of SC-7 Leapin’ Lizard on the leaves.
Paint 2 coats of SC-36 Irish Luck to make scalloped edges on the bottom of the shirt and sleeves.
Paint 2 coats of SC-73 Candy Apple Red to add ladybugs on the hat. Using the back of the brush handle as a stamp, add SC-15 Tuxedo dots to their backs
Outline the flowers, leaves, ladybugs, and scallops with Tuxedo.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Antique the Fox Facetini with Tuxedo. Water down some SC-5 Tiger Tail and SC-50 Orange Ya Happy until they have a milky consistency. With a small fan brush or large round brush, apply the two colors like watercolor to the entire fox. Use two different brushes, one for each color. The glaze will blend better while they are still wet, so move at a quick and steady pace. Alternately apply each color while you blend them.
Apply 2 washy coats of SC-16 Cotton Tail on the cheeks and tip of the tail.
Paint 2 coats of SC-15 Tuxedo on the eyes, nose, paws, and tips of the ears.
With a liner brush, add a thick swipe of SC-16 Cotton Tail on the left side of the nose for glare.
Using the back of the brush handle as a stamp, make SC-16 Cotton Tail dots on the left side of the eyes for eye shine.
. With a toothbrush, add SC-25 Crackerjack Brown splatters all over the fox.
Roll out clay with a rolling pin or on a slab roller to create a slab that is about 1/8” thick
Compress slab with rib
Cut out 3 medallion shapes of desired size by drawing and cutting shape with fettling knife or using cookie cutters
Use pencil to create hole at the top of each shape
Smooth all edges with a damp sponge
Allow to dry flat
Once dry bisque fire to Cone 04
Glaze:
Moisten a sponge and wipe medallions to remove any dust
Prepare your pallet by adding 6 colors:
Squirt out 1 teaspoon of the fallowing for use: SC-6 Sunkissed , SC-73 Candy Apple red and SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue
Mix green using ½ teaspoon of SC-6 Sunkissed and ½ teaspoon of SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue
Mix orange using ½ teaspoon of SC-6 Sunkissed and ½ teaspoon of SC-73 Candy Apple Red
Mix violet using ½ teaspoon of SC-73 Candy apple red and ½ teaspoon of SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue
Lay out medallions and assign colors to them in rainbow order, each medallion will have two colors – be sure to mark both sides (red, orange, yellow, green, blue, violet)
Using a soft fan brush apply one coat of each color to its designated area on each medallion allowing glaze to overlap where they meet- be sure to glaze both sides
When dry, apply two more coats of each color to medallions allowing each coat to dry fully before applying the next
Allow glaze to dry completely
To print pattern, sponge SC-15 Tuxedo to a small portion of the sole of your shoe and press medallion into shoe to stamp
Stamp both sides of each medallion, sponging more glaze onto sole of shoe as needed
For different patterns try stamping your friends’ shoe, too
Remember to clean glaze off your shoe before putting your foot back down
Allow to dry completely
Fire to Cone 06 using stilts or bead tree
Assemble:
Lay out stick and medallions as you would like them to hang
Cut string at desired lengths and tie to medallions
Attach other end of strings to the stick
Tie one larger piece of string from each edge of the chime and connect to make something to hang from
Hang and enjoy
Form
3 Bisque Medallions (MBQKIT3) if not making your own
½ lb of Low-fire white clay (to make your own medallions)
Colors
SC-6 Sunkissed
SC-15 Tuxedo
SC-73 Candy Apple Red
SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue
Decorating Accessories
Your Shoe
Fettling knife or cookie cutters
Miscellaneous Accessories
Rolling pin or slab roller
Rib
Pallet
Sponge
Water
Brushes
Pencil
String or Twine
Stick
Lesson Plan|Low-Fire|Earthenware Bisque|Garden|Table Top
Use the Dremel with 562 Tile Cutting Bit to drill 1 large hole in the center of the bowl. It should be 1-2” in diameter. Drill 1 hole on the upper rim of the plate.
Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
lace the bowl (facing down) on the center plate and trace around the rim with the pencil. Remove the bowl and draw wavy, triangular sunrays coming from the line to the edge of the plate.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 3 coats to the center of the plate and sunrays. On the third coat, shade the tips of the sunrays with SC-97 Cant-elope. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-11 Blue Yonder, apply 3 coats to the background of the plate. Use the Soft Fan to apply 3 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the sunrays and add decorative swirls and dots.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 3 coats to the inside of the bowl and 1 coat to the outside of the bowl. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with CG-1000 Mardi Gras, apply 2 coats to the outside of the bowl. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Pour around 1/2oz of SC-97 Cant-elope into AC-220 Detail Tip and 1oz Bottle. Thin with water until it is easily squirted from the bottle. Snip the tip of the bottle off with scissors. Squeeze over the outside of the bowl using a circular motion. Place the bowl onto the center of the plate (facing down).
Fire to cone 06.
Cut 1 piece of Natural Polished Hemp #80 around 20”. Loop through the hole on the plate and tie a knot.
Hang outside. Be sure to bring in during the winter to prevent cracking.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust
Using the Soft Fan with FN-001 White, apply 3 coats to the front and back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.Before the glaze is bone dry, place the pattern over the plate and trace with a pencil. Check to make sure you are pressing hard enough.
Follow the set of directions below for glazing each leaf.
Fire to cone 06.
Green Leaf:
Using the Script Liner with CG-987 Tree Frog, apply 2 coats to the leaf. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-7 Leapin’ Lizard, apply 2 coats to the stem. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the leaf.
Red Leaf:
Using the Script Liner with CG-756 Firecracker, apply 1 coat to the inner half of the leaf.
While the glaze is still wet, dip the same brush in CG-753 Sassy Orange. Shade to the tips of the leaves.
Using the Script Liner with SC-74 Hot Tamale, apply 1 coat to the stem and shade the center of the leaf (Glaze from steps 1-2 should still be wet).
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, shade the tips of the leaves.
Repeat steps 1-4.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the leaf.
Blue Leaf:
Using the Script Liner with S-2716 Celestial Blue, apply 1 coat to the center third of the leaf.
Using the same brush with CG-718 Blue Caprice, apply 1 coat to the middle third of the leaf. Shade with previous coat.
Using the same brush with CG-788 Dutch Enamelware, apply 1 coat to the outer third of the leaf. Shade with the previous coat.
Using the Scrip Liner with SC-12 Moody Blue, apply 1 coat to the stem.
Repeat steps 1-4.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the leaf.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 Bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a water-based marker laid flat against the table, draw a line around the bottom of the piece. This is the “no paint line.”
Use the Soft Fan to apply four coats of SW-250 White Opal to the inside, handle and top inch on the outside rim of the mug.
Blue Mug: Apply four coats of SW-166 Norse Blue overlapping the White Opal about 1/2″. Make ridges of glaze with the brush for an interesting effect. Orange Mug: Same application using SW-168 Coral Sands.
Use the sponge to remove any glaze that may have gotten below the “no paint line.”
Fire to Cone 6 on a kiln washed shelf.
Form
SB-103 Wavy Mug Stoneware Bisque or CD103+ Wavy Mug Mold
Colors
SW-166 Norse Blue
SW-168 Coral Sands
SW-250 White Opal
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 Stoneware bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Lay the water based marker on the table, press the mug up against the marker and rotate around. This applies a line at the bottom of the mug which is considered the “no paint” line. Do not apply glaze past this point.
Using the soft fan brush apply two coats of SW-131 Birch to the outside of the mug. Avoid the handle.
Allow the shine to fade before applying the next coat of glaze.
Now apply two coats of SW-128 Cordovan to the entire mug, inside, over the SW-131 and Birch.
Again, let the glaze dry or shine fade before applying another coat of glaze.
Using the sponge, remove any glaze from the no paint line or the bottom of the cup.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 Stoneware bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Start with a fan brush and apply one quick coat of SC-16 Cotton Tail all over.
Transfer your pattern onto your piece using AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper. You can build your design any way you would like.
Use a round brush and a mix of SC-97 Cant-elope and SC-75 Orange-A-Peel to make your oranges. Use SC-24 Dandelion for the inside of the oranges if they are cut in half. Apply 2 or 3 coats of these colors.
Use a liner brush to fill in the leaves with 2 or 3 coats.
Go back and add detail dots and lines to your oranges.
Use SC-012 Moody Blue to add little details anywhere else you would like.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 Stoneware bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the fan brush, apply 2 coats of SW-506 Bright Blue Gloss to the outside of the bowl. Follow the contour of the bowl.
Using the fan brush, apply 2 coats of SW-502 Yellow Gloss to the inside of the bowl. Follow the contour of the bowl.
Using the script liner, apply a scalloped edge of Bright Blue Gloss to the inside rim of the bowl. Let dry and apply a second coat.
Mix together SG-401 Black Designer Liner or (SW-508 Black Gloss) and AC-310 Silkscreen Medium using a palette knife. Combine until it is the consistency of peanut butter. Adjust ratios as necessary.
Place the large boy gnome from DSS-0159 Gnomeland Silkscreen onto the plate, shiny side down. Use your finger to work the thickened wash through the screen. Remove the screen immediately and rinse or place in water to preserve the screen.
Use a sponge to clean any glaze off the bottom of the piece and allow to dry completely. NOTE: You may also fill in the gnome design and add embellishments using SW-501 White Gloss, SW-504 Red Gloss, SW-505 Purple Gloss and SW-506 Bright Blue Gloss.
Place on a properly kiln washed shelf and fire to cone 06.
To the well cleaned greenware that has been wiped down with a moistened BT-901 Synthetic Sponge to remove any excess dust and debris to the ware. Check the inside of the vase for any debris also.
Cut out the pattern and cut in some darts along the edges of the pattern to better conform the pattern to the ware. Use a pencil and AC-230 Clay Carbon to transfer the pattern.
On a Tile or Pallet place separately all of the EZ-strokes. Mix slightly with some water for brushing ability.
Using CB-406 Pointed Round loaded with EZ-026 Yellow Orange to block in two coats of color to the bird. When stroking in the color for the bird, paint in the strokes from head to tail when possible.
Load a CB-406 Pointed Round with EZ-027 Blue Turquoise and tip the brush with EZ-023 Midnight Blue and paint in one half of the leaves keeping the darker color to the outside edge of the leaf. For the other half of the leaves, stroke in EZ-028 Leaf Green and allow the color to overlap slightly onto the blue portion of the leaf.
Use CB-404 Pointed Round to paint in the branches with EZ-058 Poppy Orange. Two coats may be needed for color saturation on the branches. Lightly shade the edge of the bird from the lower beak back to the tail and under the wing. Lightly shade the area behind the neck marking.
Use CB-404 Pointed Round loaded with EZ-050 Plum Purple to shade the right side and lower portions of the branches. Paint in a center vein in the leaves as well.
Mix some EZ-058 Poppy Orange and EZ-028 Leaf Green to make a brownish color. Fill in the beak and leg areas using CB-404 Pointed Round.
Mix some EZ-037 Black with water to an almost dirty water consistency. Use CB-404 Pointed Round to shade under the wing. Paint in the detail to the wings and darken the lower section of the beak using CB-110 Liner. Paint in the markings in the tail. Using some Black that is slightly darker/thicker to reinforce the markings in the tail and wings using CB-110 Liner.
Apply some EZ-037Black to the neck marking section of the bird using CB-404 Pointed Round. The color can thin out as it gets lower towards the edge of the bird.
Paint in the iris of the eye with EZ-058 Poppy Orange using CB-110 Liner. Add the detail to the pupil and eye markings with EZ-037 Black. Use a Clean Up Tool to scratch out a highlight in the pupil.
Paint in the berries with EZ-058 Poppy Orange using CB-404 Pointed Round. Moisten the brush with water and rub out a highlight to each berry. Shade the lower sections of each berry with EZ-023 Midnight Blue.
Using SG-408 Orange Designer Liner to detail the tops of each berry and the left side or top of the branches.
Use SG-404 Blue Designer Liner to detail the leaves, bird, lower portion of the berries, berry stems and dots, leg, outer edges of the bird and the right side of and lower portion of the branches.
Fire to Shelf Cone 04.
Mix some FN-006 Blue in a Plastic Cup with some water to a melted ice cream consistency. Pour the glaze into the vase, while working quickly, rotate the vase to cover the inside surface of the vase. Pour out excess color and invert to drain and dry. Use a moistened Synthetic Sponge to wipe off any drips from the outside of the vase. Use CB-604 Soft Fan to brush the inside neck of the vase. Make sure you get all the color residue from the blue glaze off the vase.
Using either CB-110 Liner or CB-404 Pointed Round to apply 2 coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing to the pattern. Do not go past the edges of the pattern.
Optional Firing. You can fire the vase to ease in the application of the background glaze if you want. It can make the application of the Matte Glaze much easier but not necessary to continue with the background. Having the fired glaze surface will repel the background glaze as you apply it and allow the two glazes to butt up against one another without any missed areas after firing. You can wipe off any background glaze from the fired glaze surface easily. Fire to Shelf Cone 05-06.
Apply 3-4 coats of FN-301 Marshmallow White to the background of the vase. Use a brush sized for the area being painted to apply the glaze while making sure that there are not any ridges or lumps in the glaze surface.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use MC-001 6mm Low Tack Masking Tape to tape the canvas off into 4 equal squares.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-9 Jaded, SC-30 Blue Dawn, SC-88 Tu Tu Tango or SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 3 coats to each of the squares. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Remove the tape before the glaze is dry.
Using the pattern, cut out the circles.
Place 1 circle in the center of the square glaze with SC-88 Tu Tu Tango and 2 circles in the square glazed with SC-9 Jaded. Using the Script Liner with SG-501 Sculpting Medium, apply 1 thick coat to the circles. Carefully lift up the paper.
Place 1 circle in the center of the square glazed with SC-30 Blue Dawn and 2 circles in the square glazed with SC-97 Cant-elope. Using the Script Liner with SG-302 Snowfall, apply 1 thick coat to the circles. Carefully lift up the paper.
Allow all circles to completely dry.
Using the Script Liner with SC-88 Tu Tu Tango, apply 1 coat to a circle in each of the squares with 2 circles. Using the Script Liner with SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 1 coat to the other circle in the squares with 2 circles.
Using the Script Liner with S-2101 Clear Brushing Glaze, apply 2 coats to the lines where the tape was located. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use MC-001 6mm Low Tack Masking Tape to tape the canvas off into 4 equal squares.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-9 Jaded, SC-30 Blue Dawn, SC-88 Tu Tu Tango or SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 3 coats to each of the squares. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Remove the tape before the glaze is dry.
Using the pattern, cut out the circles.
Place 1 circle in the center of the square glaze with SC-88 Tu Tu Tango and 2 circles in the square glazed with SC-9 Jaded. Using the Script Liner with SG-501 Sculpting Medium, apply 1 thick coat to the circles. Carefully lift up the paper.
Place 1 circle in the center of the square glazed with SC-30 Blue Dawn and 2 circles in the square glazed with SC-97 Cant-elope. Using the Script Liner with SG-302 Snowfall, apply 1 thick coat to the circles. Carefully lift up the paper.
Allow all circles to completely dry.
Using the Script Liner with SC-88 Tu Tu Tango, apply 1 coat to a circle in each of the squares with 2 circles. Using the Script Liner with SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 1 coat to the other circle in the squares with 2 circles.
Using the Script Liner with S-2101 Clear Brushing Glaze, apply 2 coats to the lines where the tape was located. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 3 coats to the front and sides of the canvas. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the ruler and pencil, make a diagonal line across the front of the canvas. Then make 2 lines perpendicular to the first line. They should be spaced to create similar sized areas.
Using the Detail Liner with AC-302 Wax Resist, trace over the pencil lines.
Using the Script Liner with SG-201 Black Cobblestone, apply 1, 2 and 3 coats to each area above the diagonal line. Only apply additional coats after the glaze is no longer shiny. It is important to make coats even.
Using the Script Liner with SG-202 White Cobblestone, apply 1, 2 and 3 coats to each area below the diagonal line. Only apply additional coats after the glaze is no longer shiny. It is important to make coats even.
Using the Script Liner with SC-11 Blue Yonder, apply 1 coat to the border of each section glazed with SG-202 White Cobblestone. Only apply after the glaze is no longer shiny.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the scissors to cut out the cactus pattern.Place the pattern on the canvas and trace with the pencil.
Using the Script Liner with EL-142 Grass, apply 2 coats to the cactus. Brush slightly past the pencil line. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
After the glaze is dry, brush with water and place the pattern back down. Press the pattern to stick it to the glaze. Blot with a paper towel.
Using the Soft Fan EL-145 Ginger Root, apply 2 coats to the background and sides of the canvas. Make sure to brush over the edges of the paper. Remove the paper before the second coat is dry.
Use SG-401 Black to outline the cactus. The glaze must be dry to use the tip, otherwise use the Detail Liner.
Using the Script Liner with SG-401 Black, shade the edges of the cactus. Use thinned SG-401 Black with the Detail Liner to make the lines on the cactus.
Using the Detail Liner with SG-402 White, press in marks on the cactus. Use SG-401 Black to make tick marks over the white. Fire to cone 06.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Basecoat all 4 tiles with SS-138b Flat Black. Allow to dry.
Tile #1 – Measure and divide it into 4 sections with the ¼” Masking Tape.
Pour some of each of the metallics onto a disposable palette. Apply 1 coat of each of the metallics to one section on the tile starting with the Copper Metallic, Dark Bronze Metallic, Gold Metallic, and Steel Metallic. Allow to dry.
Apply a second coat of the metallics about 1/3rd the way down going to the bottom edge of the tile. While this coat is still wet lay a piece of paper on the tile covering the top 2/3rd. Using a spritzer bottle, spray MM-202 Green Patina onto the lower third of the Copper, Dark Bronze, and Gold Metallics. Spritz MM-306 Rapid Rust onto the lower 1/3 of the Stainless Steel area. Allow to dry.
Tile #2 and Tile #3 – Cut a BT-910 Synthetic Sponge in half. Line up the two pieces of bubble wrap. Using one of the cut sponges, load the flat edge of the sponge with MM-102 Copper Metallic, then sponge the bubbles of the bubble wrap with the Copper. Place one of the base coated tiles onto the bubble wrap. Carefully pick up the tile with the bubble wrap placing the tile upright. With your fingertips lightly press the bubble wrap on the tile. Then remove the bubble wrap. While the Copper is still wet, spritz the tile with Green Patina. Use the other half of the cut sponge to apply MM-106 Steel Metallic to the third tile. Follow the steps for flipping the tile over, remove bubble wrap, and spritz with the MM-305 Rapid Rust. Clean sponges right after use. Allow to dry.
On the fourth tile. Using the sponge with the copper in it, Sponge the ST-367 Leafy Border stamp on one side with Copper Metallic and the other half with Gold Metallic. Align the stamp with the edge of the tile and lightly press down with your fingertips, then remove the stamp. Repeat and stamp the other end of the tile.
Using a pencil, write a word such as welcome or another design. Mix some Copper Metallic with Green Patina and paint over your word/design.
Use the CB-110 #10/0 Liner to apply 2 coats of this mix to the wording. Allow to dry overnight.
Apply 2 thin coats of AC-502 Matte Brush On Sealer to each of the tiles. Be sure not to apply heavy or it will turn milky.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the scissors to cut out the cactus pattern.Place the pattern on the canvas and trace with the pencil.
Using the Script Liner with EL-142 Grass, apply 2 coats to the cactus. Brush slightly past the pencil line. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
After the glaze is dry, brush with water and place the pattern back down. Press the pattern to stick it to the glaze. Blot with a paper towel.
Using the Soft Fan EL-145 Ginger Root, apply 2 coats to the background and sides of the canvas. Make sure to brush over the edges of the paper. Remove the paper before the second coat is dry.
Use SG-401 Black to outline the cactus. The glaze must be dry to use the tip, otherwise use the Detail Liner.
Using the Script Liner with SG-401 Black, shade the edges of the cactus. Use thinned SG-401 Black with the Detail Liner to make the lines on the cactus.
Using the Detail Liner with SG-402 White, press in marks on the cactus. Use SG-401 Black to make tick marks over the white. Fire to cone 06.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-55 Yella Bout It, apply 3 coats to the front and sides of the canvas. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Before the glaze is bone dry, lay the pattern over the canvas and trace with the pencil. You should be able to see the pattern in the glaze.
Using the Script Liner with SC-74 Hot Tamale, apply 1 coat to the top/left flower, 2 coats to the top/right flower and 3 coats to the bottom flower. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the flowers and lettering.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of EL-118 Blue Grotto to the pinwheel. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Pour around 2 TBS of PC-601 Clear Cascade, PC-602 White Cascade, EL-211 Volcanic Glow and EL-118 Blue Grotto onto the palette.
Using the same Soft Fan, dip it into the PC-601 Clear Cascade and glob it randomly onto pinwheel several times.
Using the same Soft Fan, dip it into the EL-211 Volcanic Glow and glob it randomly onto pinwheel. Make sure to put some globs over the PC-601 Clear Cascade.
Using the same Soft Fan, dip it into PC-602 White Cascade and add glob it randomly onto the pinwheel. Make fewer, smaller globs.
Using the same Soft Fan, dip it into EL-118 Blue Grotto and add some more globs to the pinwheel.
Make sure to go over some of the PC-602 White Cascade.
Use the Dremel with 562 Tile Cutting Bit to drill 4 holes on the upper edge of the rice bowl. Each hole is spaced about 4.5” apart. Drill 4 holes on the edge of the plate and 1 in the center. Try to evenly space the holes.
Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 3 coats to the inside of the plate and bowl. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-13 Grapel, apply 3 coats to the outside of the bowl and the outside rim of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with CG-999 Jazz Notes, make a thick line around the outer rim of the bowl. Extend the glaze downward from the line to make drips. After that coat dries, apply a 2nd coat.
Using the Soft Fan with CG-999 Jazz Notes, apply 2 coats to the outer center section of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Use the Script Liner to make drips coming from the center, down towards the rim. After those drips dry, apply a 2nd coat.
Fire to cone 06.
Cut 4 pieces of Natural Polished Hemp #80 around 20” long. Tie the end of each piece to one of the 4 holes on the edge of the bowl. Tie a triple knot on each piece around 4-5” from the bowl.
Cut 1 piece of Natural Polish Hemp #80 around 30” long. Knot the end and run through the top of the plate. Take the plate and run the 4 strings from the bowl through the holes on the sides. Gather the 5 strings at the top and tie a knot around 10” from the plate. Cut off the excess from the 4 short strings. Tie a loop at the end of the long string for hanging.
Hang outside. Be sure to bring it in during the winter to prevent cracking.
Use the Dremel with 562 Tile Cutting Bit to drill 1 large hole in the center of the bowl.
Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with CG-1001 Gogh Iris, apply 1 coat to the outside of the bowl.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue, apply 2 coats to the outside of the bowl and 3 coats to the inside. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 1 coat to the top of the plate.
Pour around 1 oz of CG-1001 Gogh Iris, SC-11 Blue Yonder SC-15 Cotton Tail and SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue into separate cups. Thin with enough water so that they are easily poured. Randomly pour them onto the top of the plate. Rotate until the entire plate is covered in glaze. Pour off any excess glaze. Allow glaze to dry.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue, apply 3 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Place the bowl upside down and place the plate on top.
Fire to cone 06.
Place outside and pour water onto the plate. Bring inside during the winter to prevent cracking.
Form
MB-1116 Casualware Dinner Plate
MB-105 Rice Bowl
Colors
CG-1001 Gogh Iris (2oz)
SC-11 Blue Yonder (2oz)
SC-15 Cotton Tail (3oz)
SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue (3oz)* Can substitute SC-11 Blue Yonder or SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue to match your décor.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper over the front of the canvas. Place the pattern on top and trace using the pencil.
Using the Script Liner SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-35 Gray Hare, SC-41 Brown Cow, SC-46 Rawhide, SC-88 Tu Tu Tango and SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 2 coats to each corresponding section of the pattern. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the design and lettering. Add “stitches” to the roller skate and background sections. Use the Soft Fan to apply 2 coats to the edge of the canvas. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-203 Dry Champagne, apply 2 coats to the front of the canvas. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Wipe bisque down with a damp sponge to remove any dust
Trace on the pattern.
Following the numbers on the pattern, and using the 4 Round, apply 3 coats of color to the tail feathers. Harvest Gold, Squash Blossom and Orange Sorbet.
Using the 4 Round, apply 3 coats of Cinnamon to the body area.
Using the 4 Round, apply 3 coats of Spice Brown to the neck and head.
Using the 4 Round, apply 3 coats of Red Coral to the comb and waddle.
Sideload the 4 Round in Cinnamon and shade around each tail feather and around the head and neck.
Sideload in Chestnut Brown and shade around the body.
Using the Liner, apply 3 coats of Squash Yellow to the legs, feet and beak.
Using the Liner, outline and detail with slightly thinned Black Designer Liner.
Using both the Script Liner and Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of Frosted Lemon to the rim and back of the plate. Do not apply to the foot area, as Stoneware sits on the kiln shelf and does not get stilted.
Using the Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of Clear to the front of the plate, staying off the rim.
Using the Script Liner, apply 1 coat of Speckta-clear Autumn to the background going around the turkey.
Place on a well kiln washed shelf and fire to shelf cone 6.
Using the X-Acto Knife, Scalpel or Fret Tool to cut off the collar of the wet leather-hard greenware vase just below the neck of the vase. You want to make a 3 1/2” opening for the lid. If you use the rim of the vase as a guide, you can cut straight down and it will give you the approximate size opening for the lid. Let dry.
Use the Clean Up Tool to remove the seams from the ware and check to make sure the lid fits well on the vase. Use the Green Grit Cloth to further sand the seam lines and any imperfections in the vase. Use a moistened BT-901 Synthetic Sponge to wipe down the vase and to remove any lingering dust. Check the inside of the vase for any debris as well.
Fire the vase and lid to Shelf Cone 04.
In a Plastic Cup mix some FN-003 Orange to a melted ice cream consistency with some water. Pour the thinned glaze into the vase, while working quickly, rotate the vase to cover the inside of the vase with glaze. Pour out excess glaze. Invert the vase to drain and dry. Repeat this step for the lid also. Wipe off any glaze drips with a moistened Synthetic Sponge. Let dry.
Apply 3 coats of FN-001 White to the outside of the vase using CB-604 Soft Fan. Use CB-106 Script Liner to paint the middle bead on the lid. Let dry.
To the lower section of the lid apply 3 coats of FN-003 Orange using CB-604 Soft Fan.
Use the ruler and pencil to mark off 16 equal sections around the vase. Lightly draw a vertical line from each point. Use the Banding Wheel to mark off 11 equal horizontal lines approximately every ¾” apart. Starting from the top on the first vertical line where the line intersects with the horizontal line to mark it with a small “x” using the Red Fine Tip Sharpie Marker. Alternate the marking of the “x” to every other vertical line along the first horizontal line. Repeat this around the vase to complete 8 markings. Move down to the next horizontal line and mark an “x” to every other line between the first row. Repeat this process down the vase to complete the diamond pattern. You should start to see a pattern of diamonds with the “x” markings. Lightly sketch a diagonal line starting at the top of one point spiraling downward to the bottom of the vase. Repeat this 8 times in one diagonal direction. Reverse this diagonal line in the other direction to complete the diamond pattern.
Shake and Stir CG-961 Fruity Freckles. Use CB-106 Script Liner to apply one coat of CG-961 Fruity Freckles to the diamond pattern about the width of the brush hairs. To make the completion of the pattern easier, paint all the diagonal lines of one direction and then do the reverse diagonal lines. This will ensure that each line is completed. Let dry. Repeat this for asecond coat as before. Let dry. It is important to let the coats of crystal glaze to dry between coats.
Pour out some of the crystal glaze onto a tile or pallet to make it easier to pick up more crystals than glaze. Apply the third coat and try to build up a heavy line of crystals over the previous 2 coats of glaze. Check to make sure there are no blank spots of crystals along the lines. Fill in the open spaces if needed. Let dry.
Apply 2-3 coats of CG-981 Fruity Freckles to the top finial on the lid down to the middle bead.
Make sure the crystal glaze on the vase has dried before firing. Stilt and fire the vase and lid to Shelf Cone 06 with a medium ramping and a 5 min hold on the kiln program. This is to avoid any pulling in the glaze surface and to adequately melt the crystals.
Pour out a small amount of OG-801 Bright Gold onto a Tile or Pallet. Let the luster air thicken slightly before applying. Apply 1 coat of OG-801 Bright Gold Luster to the middle bead on the lid using RB-104 Liner. Let dry. Use OA-901 Essence to clean the brush.
Stilt and Fire the lid to Shelf Cone 018.
Form
CD-1128 Medium Vase. mold (Wet, leather hard greenware)
CD-1145 Large Finial Jar mold (lid only, preferably wet, leather hard greenware)
Wipe bisque down with a damp sponge to remove any dust
Mark off a border about 1” wide.
Scrunch up the tissue paper, then tear into workable pieces.
Apply a small amount of thinned glue, then press the tissue paper pieces down to the area inside the marked area, continuing until the inside area is completely covered.
Using the #6 Round, apply 2 coats of Buttermilk to the tissue paper area.
Using the # 6 Round, apply 2 to 3 coats of Terra Cotta to the rim and back of the plate.
Trace on the pattern.
Thin Chocolate to a wash, and using the # 6 Round apply over the textured area, then gently blot with a paper towel allowing the color to remain in the creases.
Using the # 4 Round, apply 2 coats of Orange Rust to the pumpkin.
Side load in Orange and add some shading to the ribs, and then follow with Honey Toast at random.
Using the Detail, apply Medium Mocha to the stem, and shade with Chocolate.
Using the # 4 Round, apply Honey Toast to the smaller leaves.
Side load and shade with both Bright Yellow and Limeburst.
Using the # 4 Pound, apply Limeburst to the medium leaves,
Shade with both Bright Yellow and Honey Toast.
Using the # 4 Round, apply Brightest Yellow to the sunflower petals.
Shade 1 shed with Honey Toast and the opposite side with Orange.
Using the # 4 Round, apply Chocolate to the flower center, and shade with Dark Chocolate.
Using the # 4 Round, apply Country Sage to the sunflower leaves, and shade with Accent Green.
Using the Liner, outline and detail the piece with Dark Brown.
Using a toothbrush, spatter the piece with Dark Brown.
Using the # 6 Round, apply 2 coats of matte Sealer to the entire piece.
Starting with a leather hard wheel thrown cylinder, draw pattern in to surface with a pencil. Choose a simple shape to repeat around your cylinder to create a pattern
Cut out shapes using a fettling knife, needle tool or Exacto knife- depending on how detailed the shape is you may need to switch tools
Save cut out shapes to add back into design
Add shapes back into design by attaching them to the surface of your cylinder by slip and scoring
Clean all edges with a damp sponge or fingers to smooth
Allow to dry completely
Bisque fire to Cone 04
Glaze:
Wipe bisque down with a damp sponge to remove any dust
Using a soft fang brush, apply 3 coats of Rainforest (SW185) to your piece, allowing each coat to dry in between application and leaving the bottom of the piece clean of glaze
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper over the front of the plate. Trace the pattern using the pencil.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-9 Jaded, SC-10 Teal Next Time, SC-46 Rawhide, SC-60 Silver Lining, SC-70 Pink-A-Dot, SC-88 Tu Tu Tango and SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 2 coats to the corresponding sections of the pattern. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Line with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline each section of the pattern and add decorative lines and dots.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-702 Speckta-Clear Celebration, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper over the front of the plate. Trace the pattern using the pencil.
Using the Script Liner with CN201 Light Grey, CN501 Neon Yellow, CN502 Neon Blue, CN504 Neon Orange, CN505 Neon Green and CN507 Neon Red, apply 2 coats to the corresponding sections of the pattern. Glaze the outside of the hammock with only CN501 Neon Yellow. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using MC-001 6mm Low Track Masking Tape and MC-002 12mm Low Track Masking Tape, make vertical lines on the outside of the hammock. Using the Script Liner with CN502 Neon Blue, CN504 Neon Orange, CN505 Neon Green and CN507 Neon Red apply 1 coat to each stripe. Remove tape before glaze dries.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline each section of the pattern and add decorative lines and dots. Use the Script Liner to fill in the inside of the hammock.
Using the Soft Fan with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-702 Speckta-Clear Celebration, apply 2 coats to the front of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour around 1/4 cup FN-018 Bright Blue into the disposable cup. Thin with around 1 TBS of water. The glaze should be easily poured. Pour the glaze into the vase and rotate the inside. Place upside down on a few paper towels for a minute. Turn the vase over and wipe off any excess glaze with a damp sponge.
Using the Soft Fan with CG-964 Kaleidoscope, apply 2 coats to the outside of the vase. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with CG-1000 Mardi Gras, apply 2 coats to the outside of the vase. Recede the last coat around ¼” from the bottom of the vase. This will prevent dripping.
Squeeze around 1 TBS SC-11 Blue Yonder onto the palette. Thin with around 1 TSP of water. Just enough so the glaze moves when you tilt the palette.
Using the Script Liner with thinned SC-11 Blue Yonder, cover the brush with glaze. Take the brush and forcefully tap it against your finger over the vase. Try to make dots and splatter lines on the vase. Do as much or as little as you would like.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Add water to slightly thin SW-188 Landslide to the consistency of heavy cream. Roll to coat the inside of the vase.
Use a fan brush to apply 3 coats of SW-188 Landslide, leaving the top ¼ of the vase unglazed. You will need to recede each coat due to the mobile nature of Landslide as well as Jungle Gems at 6. Take the first coat down to the bottom, leaving about ¼”-1/2” for safety. Take the second coat about ½ way down and the third should just be the top ¼ of the glazed section.
Use a fan brush to apply 2 coats of S-2726 Cheetah to the unglazed section of the vase, slightly overlapping the Landslide.
Use a clean sponge to wipe any excess glaze off of the foot.
Fire to cone 5/6. (Sample was fired to cone 6)
Blue Vase
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Add water to slightly thin SW-186 Azurite to the consistency of heavy cream. Roll to coat the inside of the vase.
Use a fan brush to apply 3 coats of SW-186 Azurite, leaving the top ¼ of the vase unglazed. You will need to recede each coat due to the mobile nature of Azurite as well as Jungle Gems at 6. Take the first coat down to the bottom, leaving about ¼”-1/2” for safety. Take the second coat about ½ way down and the third should just be the top ¼ of the glazed section.
Use a fan brush to apply 2 coats of S-2701 Peacock to the unglazed section of the vase, slightly overlapping the Azurite.
Use a clean sponge to wipe any excess glaze off of the foot.
Fire to cone 5/6. (Sample was fired to cone 6)
Green Vase
Begin with soft fired stoneware bisque.
Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Add water to slightly thin SW-185 Rainforest to the consistency of heavy cream. Roll to coat the inside of the vase.
Use a fan brush to apply 3 coats of SW-185 Rainforest, leaving the top ¼ of the vase unglazed. You will need to recede each coat due to the mobile nature of Rainforest as well as Jungle Gems at 6. Take the first coat down to the bottom, leaving about ¼”-1/2” for safety. Take the second coat about ½ way down and the third should just be the top ¼ of the glazed section.
Use a fan brush to apply 2 coats of S-2714 Herb Garden to the unglazed section of the vase, slightly overlapping the Rainforest.
Use a clean sponge to wipe any excess glaze off of the foot.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a soft fan brush, apply 2 coats of FN-001 White to the bottom ¾ of the outside of the piece and apply 3 coats or roll the glaze to coat the inside.
Use a pencil or carbon paper to apply your desired plant design. We used a pencil to draw on some monstera leaves.
Apply 1 coat of AC-302 Wax resist to your design.
Adhere masking tape to section off part 2/4 and ¾. Creating a large middle section. Also adhere 2 pieces to the center of the handle.
Use a soft fan to apply 2 coats of SC-93 Honeydew list to the middle section of the pitcher. Be sure to wipe off glaze build up from the wax resist.
Use a script liner to apply 2 coats of SC-88 Tu Tu Tango to create the aloe planter, top band, and handle.
Draw on aloe leaves with a pencil and apply wax resist to the lines as well as over the planter.
Use a soft fan brush to apply 3 coats of CN302 Bright Caribbean to the bottom section and use a script liner to apply 3 coats to the aloe leaves. Be sure to wipe off glaze build up from the wax resist.
Use a fan brush to apply 3 coats of CN293 Dark Purple to the top section of the vase and handle.
Remove all of the masking tape.
Use a pencil to draw where the vines will go.
Use a mini liner to apply 1 coat of CN293 Dark Purple to the vines.
Use a script liner to create leaves using a single brush stroke (or two!).
Allow to dry completely.
Stilt and fire to shelf cone 05/06. (Sample was fired to cone 06)
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-009 Black, apply 2 coats to front and back of the tray. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Once the front of the tray is bone dry, place AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper in the center of the tray. Place the pattern on top and trace with the pencil.
Using the Detail Liner with AC-302 Wax Resist, apply 1 coat over the pattern.
Replace the glaze caps on the 2oz Stroke & Coat bottles with AC-224 Plastic Detailer Caps.
Squeeze a thick puddle coat of glaze onto the corresponding sections of the tray. Work in sections. Glaze approximately 1/3 of the tray and move to the next step. Refer to the patterns for color placement. NOTE: If the glaze is too heavy, it will crawl. If it is too light, you will not achieve the batik look.
Use a hair dryer on low to force dry the top layer (skin) of the glaze. Make sure not to put the hair dryer too close while it is wet or it will move the glaze. Dry until you see cracking in the skin.
Repeat steps 8 & 9 until the entire pattern is glazed. Work in sections to prevent the glaze from drying prematurely, which will cause less cracks.
Using the Script Liner with EL-204 Glowing Embers, apply 2 coats to the background. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Apply a 3rd coat, but only in the center of each background section.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply some designs using SG-401 Black Designer Liner. It doesn’t have to be precise; the glaze is semi-opaque so the designs may not even show though perfectly. Keep that in mind during application.
Using a liner brush, apply 3 coats of EL-130 Sea Green to the pants, EL-142 Grass to the shirt, EL-145 Ginger Root to the nose and hands, EL-146 Rain Cloud to the beard, and EL-147 Creek Bed to the boots.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply designs using SG-401 Black Designer Liner. We focused the design to the feet/legs/ and back of the ears. Also be sure to add the nose and mouth.
Use a liner brush to apply 3 coats of CC-102 White Crackle to the chest, inside of the ears, and tip of the tail.
Use the same brush to apply 3 coats of EL-133 Autumn to the rest of the fox, avoiding the eyes.
Use a mini liner to apply 2 coats of SC-16 Cotton tail to the eyes. Outline the eyes and add pupils using the mini liner with SG-401 Black Designer Liner.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, SC-37 Ivory Tower and SC-55 Yella Bout It, apply 2 coats to the facets on the beard. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 2 coats to the facets on the shirt. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-88 Tu Tu Tango, apply 2 coats to the facets on the pants. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-48 Camel Back, apply 2 coats to the nose and hands. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-9 Jaded, SC-10 Teal Next Time and SC-96 Aqu-ward, apply 2 coats to the facets on the hat. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the facets on the shoes and under the hat. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
After glaze is completely dry, outline the facets with SG-401 Black.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust
Using the Script Liner with SC-86 Old Lace, apply 2 coats to the facets on the chest and tip of the tail. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-24 Dandelion and SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 2 coats to the facets on the body. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-48 Camel Back, apply 2 coats to the inside of the ears and feet. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
After glaze is completely dry, outline the facets with SG-401 Black. Fill in the eyes and top of the ears.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the pencil to sketch a sun on the hat, flowers on the body and a few bugs here and there.
Squeeze around 1 TSP of SC-11 Blue Yonder on the palette. Thin with water. Using the Script Liner, apply 1 coat to the entire gnome.
Using the Script Liner or Detail Liner with SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-11 Blue Yonder, SC-13 Grapel, SC-24 Dandelion, SC-27 Sour Apple, SC-55 Yella Bout It, SC-73 Candy Apple Red, SC-85 Orkid and SC-97 Cant-elope, apply 1 coat to your designs.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline your designs.
Using the Script Liner with SG-702 Celebration, apply 1 coat to the hat.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Apply MC-002 12mm Low Track Masking Tape just above the texture on the mug. Go around the entire circumference.
Using the Soft Fan with IN 1032 Miami Pink (Stitched Mug), IN 1053 Harvest (Hobnail Mug) or IN 1062 Light Kiwi (Fluted Mug), apply 3 coats to the inside of the mug, above the tape and on the handle. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Remove tape before glaze is dry.
Apply MC-002 12mm Low Track Masking Tape just above the bottom edge of the glaze going around the rim of the mugs.
Using the Soft Fan with CR 901 Waterfall (Stitched Mug), CR 911 Ocean Mist (Hobnail Mug) or CR 903 Emerald Falls (Fluted Mug), apply 2 coats below the tape and on the bottom. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Stitched Mug
Using the Soft Fan with EL-103 Sea Spray, apply 2 coats to the outside the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-127 Rose Granite, apply 2 coats to the outside of the mug. Recede the second coat to prevent running. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-103 Sea Spray, apply 3 coats to the inside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Hobnail Mug
Using the Soft Fan with EL-101 Oyster Shell, apply 2 coats to the outside the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-131 Turtle Shell, apply 2 coats to the outside of the mug. Recede the second coat to prevent running. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-101 Oyster Shell, apply 3 coats to the inside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fluted Mug
Using the Soft Fan with EL-101 Oyster Shell, apply 2 coats to the outside the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-118 Blue Grotto, apply 2 coats to the outside of the mug. Recede the second coat to prevent running. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-101 Oyster Shell, apply 3 coats to the inside of the mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Stitched Mug
Use the pencil to draw a vertical line between the stiches so that it looks like there are 2 sets of leaves (pointing up) on either side of the line. Use the pencil to sketch simple flower heads above the stems. Draw one more flower head on the inside of the mug.
Using the Script Liner with SC-52 Toad-ily Green, apply 2 coats to the leaves. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner and Detail Liner with SC-28 Blue Isle, SC-42 Butter Me Up, SC-50 Orange Ya Happy and SC-70 Pink-A-Dot, apply 2 coats to the various parts of the flowers. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the leaves and flowers. Add decorative lines or dots to the flowers. Add a line going down the handle of the mug.
Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 1 coat to the rim.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-203 Dry Champagne, apply 3 coats to the entire mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 06.
Hobnail Mug
Use the pencil to sketch 3 concentric circles on the inside of the mug
Using the Script Liner with SC-52 Toad-ily Green, SC-28 Blue Isle, SC-42 Butter Me Up, SC-50 Orange Ya Happy and SC-70 Pink-A-Dot, apply 2 coats to the hobnails. Try to space out the different colors
Using the Detail Liner with SC-52 Toad-ily Green, SC-28 Blue Isle, SC-42 Butter Me Up, SC-50 Orange Ya Happy and SC-70 Pink-A-Dot, apply 2 coats in a circular shape around each hobnail. Pick a different color from the hobnail color.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-52 Toad-ily Green, SC-28 Blue Isle, SC-42 Butter Me Up, SC-50 Orange Ya Happy and SC-70 Pink-A-Dot, apply 2 coats in a circular shape around 1/3 of the circles on the mug. Pick a different color from previous circle.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the circles. Try to be irregular with your lines.
Using SG-401 Black, make vertical lines around the outer rim of the mug. Make horizonal lines down the outside of the handle on the mug. Make dots between the circles.
Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 1 coat to the rim.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-203 Dry Champagne, apply 3 coats to the entire mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 06.
Fluted Mug
Use the pencil to sketch the upside-down rainbows on the outside of the mug. Sketch one on the inside of the mug, right-side up.
Using the Script Liner with SC-28 Blue Isle, SC-42 Butter Me Up and SC-52 Toad-ily Green, apply 2 coats to each section of the rainbows. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-50 Orange Ya Happy, apply 2 coats to the area between the rainbows and the upper line of flutes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-42 Butter Me Up, apply 2 coats to the upper line of flutes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-70 Pink-A-Dot, apply 2 coats to the middle line of flutes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-28 Blue Isle, apply 2 coats to the lower line of flutes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the rainbows and add accent lines to the flutes. Try to be irregular with your lines.
Using SG-401 Black, make dots around the rainbows, in the flutes and going down the handle.
sing the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 1 coat to the rim.
Using the Soft Fan with FN-203 Dry Champagne, apply 3 coats to the entire mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Trace pattern on the piece with red pen using clay carbon. Note: Before removing pattern raise up partially to make sure the pattern is completely traced.
With a damp sponge lightly wipe the piece to remove dust and to condition the piece ready to paint.
Using French Dimensions, shake and test on a paper towel making sure you have an even flow of product. Holding tip at a 45% angle to the plate outline the pattern. When done all lines should be touching so glaze will stay contained. Allow to dry.
Place on palette Pumpkin Orange, Ruby Red, and Sun Yellow.
One petal at a time; using a liner brush, puddle Sun Yellow from top of each petal, continue until the product is 1/3— 1/2 down the petal then pick up Pumpkin Orange on the brush and puddle in the remainder of the petal.
With the tip of the brush pull the two colors back and forth from center to tip – blending the two colors.
Repeat step 5 and 6 until all petals are completed.
Please make sure that all glaze inside the petals is butted up against the piping, if not the color could pull back.
Using Ruby Red and liner brush, pull color onto each petal giving accent lines, refer to photo 1.
Using Pumpkin Orange and liner, puddle in the outer circle of center.
Add Espresso to the palette and with liner brush, puddle in the inner circle of the center.
Again, check and make sure all glaze is touching piping.
Add Light Turquoise and Caribbean Blue to the palette.
On the top of plate: puddle in Light Turquoise to the entire background. Allow to dry, then brush a light coat of Caribbean Blue over the Light Turquoise only.
Back of plate: with brush apply 2 coats of Light Turquoise, let dry. Using the same brush, apply 1 coat of Caribbean Blue on top of the Light Turquoise.
With French Dimensions apply dots to the center of flowers, this includes both the Pumpkin Orange and Expresso. Also put a few dots out on the petals, refer to photo 2.
Allow to dry overnight, then stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.
With a damp sponge lightly wipe the piece to remove dust and to condition the piece ready to paint.
For background of the inside of the bowl: place on palette, spaced apart, a dime size amount of Neon Yellow, Neon Green, Light Grey, Light Grape, and Dark Pink. Add enough White to each of these colors to make a 50/50 mix. Then add some water to each mix to make the consistency similar to regular milk. Using a fan glaze brush, fully load with 1 of the colors then in a circular motion paint in 1 coat only of an irregular circle shape. Continue with each color leaving areas of bare bisque between the color shapes. More than one of each color shapes may be applied depending on how large you decide to make your shapes. These circles/shapes are not intended to be a perfect circle—you may want to pencil in your shape before painting. Refer to pattern/picture page. Let dry.
Strawberry placement: using pencil lightly pencil a “T”, about the size of your thumb, where you want the strawberries to be. Pencil in a 0 for top view strawberries. Remember to space the berries apart with enough room to allow for their calyx.
Add Really Red to the palette . For all strawberries, 3 coats will be needed. Where you have T’s, using either round brush, fully load in Really Red. Stroke in Really Red from the side of T down to the bottom of the T, then apply the same to other side-similar to making a heart. Fill in the center if your stroke did not cover the entire strawberry. Refer to pattern/picture page. Continue until all strawberries are painted 1 coat, let dry—then repeat 2 times. Where you have 0’s just apply 1 coat of Really Red completely filling a somewhat irregular circle, let dry—then repeat 2 times.
For the calyx: with a pencil lightly draw a straight line where each calyx will be. Refer to pattern/picture page. Add to palette Bright Kiwi, this will be our base coat. Using small Project Bisque: Mayco 1114 Casual Serving Bowl Project Colors: Best of Duncan Concepts: CN074 Really Red CN182 Bright Kiwi CN201 Light Grey CN244 White CN253 Black CN261 Light Grape CN343 Dark Pink CN501 Neon Yellow CN505 Neon Green Glaze: Pure Brilliance Clear Glaze Brushes: Fan Glaze Brush No. 10/0 & 1 Liner No. 4 & 6 Round Detail brush (optional) Miscellaneous Palette for Paint Paper Towels Pencil Water Container Replacement Sponge Sponge Brush on stick Palette Knife BEST OF Designed by Dru Woodward, Duncan Ambassador round or no. 1 liner fully load with Kiwi and paint each calyx from center out to tip. Complete one berry at a time until they have all been painted.
Add another dime size of Kiwi to the palette, to this add 1 or 2 drops of Black to get an olive looking green. Using the same brush as previously, load in Kiwi and side load in Mix apply 1 coat on top of Kiwi to all calyx in the same manner as before. It does not matter which side the darker color is placed on the calyx. Once all are painted. Let dry.
Add Black to the palette. This will be used for the detail—therefore thin with water so that the paint will flow off the liner brush, do not thin too much or color may look washed out after firing. The strawberry outline is not detailed in a traditional way. The outline is completed by starting from under the calyx slightly off the unpainted edge of the strawberry shape then continuing down to the bottom edge of the strawberry following contours. Then the opposite side is done by starting at calyx slightly inside the edge of the strawberry on top of the red continuing down again following the contours until meeting the “offset” at the bottom of the strawberry. After all the strawberries have all been outlined then outline all calyx, remember to paint in a vein to the middle of the calyx also. Use end of brush handle or toothpick to make small dots for the strawberry seeds. If needed refer to the pattern/picture page. Let dry
Add to the palette just a little of the original 5 colors used for the background shapes. Neon Yellow, Light Grey, Dark Pink, Light Grape, and Neon Green.
Using a 10/0 liner or detail brush dipped lightly into one of these above colors, apply small brush prints randomly to an unpainted area of approximately 2 inches. Use each color at least one time or more if desired.
Add a small amount of White to the palette. Using the same liner or detail brush also apply some brush prints randomly on top of colored shapes. Let dry.
Rim: fully load dampened sponge brush with black. Hold the sponge brush on edge and apply black by slowly turning to cover the top edge all the way around the entire bowl. Note the painted edge can be made wider by tilting sponge when applying. Let dry and apply 2 additional coats to the rim.
Back of bowl: using a fan glaze brush apply 3 coats of Black to entire back of piece, let dry between coats.
When black is thoroughly dry, apply 2 coats of Pure Brilliance to front of bowl overlapping the black edge a little.
Allow to dry 24 hours, then stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the carbon paper and a pencil, transfer the pattern onto the platter. It will be difficult to get the pattern into the small bowls so you may have to cut it so it fits. If you feel comfortable, it will be easier to hand draw the pattern instead. Use a different line of text for each bowl.
Fill the AC-222 bottle with SW-508 Black Gloss and attach writer tip.
Use the applicator bottle with the Black Gloss to go over all of the lines from the pattern.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 3 coats of SW-169 Frosted Lemon to the back side of the bowl. Do not glaze the bottom or the foot.
Using the CB-106 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of Frosted Lemon to the inside rim of the bowl and the ice cream.
Using the CB-106 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SW-166 Norse Blue to the bowl.
Using the CB-106 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SW-504 Red Gloss to the cherry.
Using the CB-106 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SW-001 Stoneware Clear to the areas around the ice cream, bowl, and cherry. You can paint over the black lines.
Repeat all steps for the other three bowls, substituting SW-168 Coral Sands, SW-108 Green Tea, and SW-177 Raspberry Mist for the Frosted Lemon.
Do not stilt or hang over the edge of the kiln shelf.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a drill with a ¼” carbide bit, drill holes into the bisque according to the diagrams on the pattern. You will be drilling 3 holes around the top rims of both bowls and one into the bottom of the vase.
Using a drill with a 1/2” carbide bit, drill 4 holes in the neck of the vase according to the diagram on the pattern. You will have drilled 11 holes total. According to the pattern, neck should be base of the vase.
Use masking tape to tape over the holes in the vase.
Thin down some SW-509 Green Gloss with water so that it is the consistency of cream. The ratio should be about 1 part water and 3 parts glaze. Pour the glaze into the vase and roll it around until the entire inside is coated. Pour out any excess glaze.
Using a pencil, divide the outside of the vase into three sections – upper, middle and bottom.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 coats of SW-156 Galaxy to the middle section of the vase.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 coats of SW-509 Green Gloss over the Galaxy on the middle section of the vase.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 coats of SW-128 Cordovan to the front and back of the SB-110 Dessert Bowl and to the top section of the vase. The dessert bowl will be fired upside down so you should paint the foot and the bottom, but leave the top rim unglazed. You can use a wet sponge to remove any glaze that may have gotten on it.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 coats of SW-108 Green Tea over the Cordovan on the back of the dessert bowl and the top section of the vase.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 coats of SW-104 Black Walnut to the front and back of the SB-106 Rimmed Bowl and the bottom section of the vase. Leave the foot and bottom of the bowl unglazed, but glaze the foot and bottom of the vase.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 coats of SW-108 Green Tea over the Black Walnut on the front and back of the Rimmed Bowl and to the bottom section of the vase.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 coats of SW-401 Light Flux to the areas on all three pieces as indicated in the pattern
Do not stilt the pieces or hang over the edge of the kiln shelf.
Place the vase in the center of the rimmed bowl in the kiln so they will fuse together. Load the dessert bowl upside down.
Fire to cone 5/6.
Cut the rope or cord into 3 equal lengths.
String one bead onto one piece of rope and tie a knot at one end so the bead stays on. Repeat for the other two pieces.
Turn the dessert bowl upside down and place it on top of the vase
Thread one of the pieces of rope up through a hole from the outside of the rimmed bowl and up through a hole from the inside of the dessert bowl. Repeat with the other 2 strings and tie all three together with a knot about 6 inches above the feeder. The dessert bowl should lift up and slide freely up and down the strings so you can fill the feeder.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 coats of SW-504 Red Gloss to the back side and front rim of the plate. Do not glaze the bottom or the foot.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 coats of SW-501 White Gloss to the inside of the plate and let dry well.
Using the carbon paper and a pencil, transfer the pattern onto the platter. You’ll have to extend the lines of the ear and the flag with a pencil. Use the photo for reference.
Fill the AC-222 bottles with SW-508 Black Gloss and attach writer tip.
Use the applicator bottle with the Black Gloss to go over all of the lines from the pattern.
Using the CB-106 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SW-506 Bright Blue Gloss to the head, ear and body of the dog.
Note: If you have additional bottles with writer tips, you can use them instead of the brushes for the next few steps if you prefer.
Using the Script Liner, apply two coats of SW-510 to the dog’s hat (leave alternating stripes white) and around the stars on the flag. Use the photo as a reference.
Using the CB-202 #2 Detail Liner, apply 2 coats of SW-502 Yellow Gloss to the flag pole.
Using the #2 Detail Liner, apply 2 coats of SW-504 Red Gloss to the ribbon on the hat and to alternating stripes on the flag.
Using the #2 Detail Liner, apply two coats of Red Gloss, Bright Blue Gloss, and Blue Gloss to the sparks of the fireworks.
Using the back end of the #2 Detail Liner, apply White Gloss to make the dots on the ribbon on the hat.
Do not stilt or hang over the edge of the kiln shelf.
Choose who you will be creating a pop art style portrait of. Maybe a pop culture icon, historical figure, or leader in your community. Print out a reference photo or create a sketch to base your portrait off of.
Place tracing paper or tissue paper over your reference photo. Trace silhouette and any identifying features you would like eliminating unnecessary details
Transfer traced design to cardboard by placing tissue over cardboard and tracing lines with a permanent marker. You may need to trace lines more than once to get them to show up on the cardboard
If using tracing paper, transfer image by using the traditional pencil transfer method of tracing lines on the reverse side with graphite and then placing tracing paper over cardboard and tracing original lines again to transfer
Cut out silhouette
Determine what features you would like to amplify with added texture. Apply Snow (AC-523) with a pallet knife to areas where you would like added texture
Allow snow to dry
Cut cardboard for your portrait background and coat with background color we used Brightest Yellow (SS-111)
When Snow is dry, start adding portrait color, we used Royal Fuchsia (SS-92), Medium Blue (SS-331), and Flat Black (SS-138)
Use one thick coat or two thinner coats for full coverage
With a small detail brush, outline features with Flat black
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze around ¼ cup of SC-42 Butter Me Up into the disposable cup. Thin with water until it is easily poured. Pour into the vase and rotate until the inside is covered. Pour out the excess.
Squeeze around 2 TBS of SC-42 Butter Me Up, SC-16 Cotton Tail and SC-60 Silver Lining onto the palette.
Use the same Soft Fan for all steps – do not clean.
Dip the Soft Fan into SC-42 Butter Me Up and apply 1 coat to the upper row of facets on the vase.
Dip the brush into SC-16 Cotton Tail and shade down to the next row of facets.
Dip the brush into SC-60 Silver Lining and shade halfway down the next row of facets.
Dip the brush into SC-16 Cotton Tail and shade halfway down the last row of facets.
Dip the brush into SC-42 Butter Me up and shade down to the bottom of the vase.
Repeat Step #4 two times for a total of 3 coats. Allow glaze to dry.
Place the pattern and AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper on the center of the vase. Trace with the pencil.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 1 coat to the lettering and stars.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Squeeze around ¼ cup of SC-35 Gray Hare into the disposable cup. Thin with water until it is easily poured. Pour into the vase and rotate until the inside is covered. Pour out the excess.
Squeeze around 2 TBS of SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-16 Cotton Tail and SC-35 Gray Hare onto the palette.
Dip the Soft Fan into SC-35 Gray Hare and apply 1 coat to the upper neck of the vase. Dip the same brush into SC-16 Cotton Tail and shade with the bottom the previous coat. Wash the brush and continue with SC-16 down to the middle of the vase. Dip the same brush into SC-6 and shade down to the bottom of the vase.
Repeat Step #4 two times for a total of 3 coats. Allow glaze to dry.
Using SG-401 Black, outline the facets around the neck line. Add a vertical line down the center of each facet. Make 5 diagonal lines coming off of each side of the center lines.
1. Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
2. Apply MC-002 12mm Low Track Masking Tape over the holes in the branches of the cactus. Leave the large center hole open.
3. Pour around ½ cup of NT-CLR Clear Dipping into the top of the cactus and rotate until the inside is covered. Pour out the excess. Remove the tape. Wipe off any glaze on the outside of the cactus.
4. Fire to cone 06.
5. Using the Soft Fan with SS-138 Flat Black, apply 1 coat to the outside of the cactus. Allow paint to dry.
6. Remove the cap from MM-202 Green Patina. Replace it with MM-600 Spritzer Cap.
7. Using the Soft Fan with MM-105 Gold Metallic, apply 1 coat to the outside of the cactus. Allow paint to dry. Apply a second coat. Do not let it dry.
8. Spritz the entire cactus with MM-202 Green Patina. Let it sit overnight.
9. If you are happy with the way it looks, move onto step #10. If you don’t have enough patina (bluish green areas), apply MM-105 Gold Metallic to the bare areas with a sponge and spritz again. If you have too much patina, add more MM-105 Gold Metallic with a sponge.
10. Using the Soft Fan with AC-502 Matte Brush on Sealer, apply 2 coats over the entire cactus. This will stop all oxidation, so you will be able to add an acrylic design to the cactus.
11. Draw 3 simple flowers on the cactus using the pencil.
12. Using the Script Liner with SS-32 Razzberri, apply 1 coat to the flowers. Allow paint to dry. Apply a second coat and shade the middle of the petals with SS-92 Royal Fuchsia.
13. Using the Script Liner with SS-247 Bright Yellow, add a dot to the middle of each flower.
14. Using the Detail Liner with SS-138 Flat Black, outline the flowers.
15. Using the Script Liner with AC-501 Gloss Brush-On Sealer, apply 1 coat to the flowers.
1. Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
2. Place AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper over the front of the plate. Trace the pattern using the pencil. Or draw your own pattern using simple shapes.
3. Use FD 254 Black Licorice to outline the pattern. Allow it to dry completely.
4. Using the Script Liner with CN 201 Light Grey, CN 501 Neon Yellow, CN 504 Neon Orange, CN 507 Neon Red, CN 502 Neon Blue and CN 505 Neon Green apply 2 coats to the corresponding sections of the pattern. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
5. Use FD 254 Black Licorice to make dots in the background.
6. Using the Soft Fan with CN 253 Black, apply 2 coats to the back of the plate. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
7. Dip in Pure Brilliance Clear Dipping.
8. Fire to cone 06.
Form
MB-1116 Casualware Dinner Plate
Colors
CN 201 Light Grey
CN 253 Black
CN 501 Neon Yellow
CN 504 Neon Orange
CN 507 Neon Red
CN 502 Neon Blue
CN 505 Neon Green
FD 254 Black Licorice
Pure Brilliance Clear Dipping (NT-CLR Clear Dipping)
Cast the mold in usual manner. Allow to dry! Clean the greenware with a Clean-Up Tool. Bisque fire to cone 04.
Using a CB-604 #4 Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of S2101 Crystal Clear glaze to the inside of the Vintage Tub. Clean up any drips of glaze with a damp sponge.
Fire the Vintage Tub to cone 06.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a Basecoat Brush, basecoat the Vintage Tub with SS-81 Shimmering Silver. Allow to dry!
Mix some SS-81 Shimmering Silver with a few drops of SS-138 Flat Black creating a dark silver. Condition a Sea Wool sponge by wetting it then squeezing out the water then roll in a paper towel to remove any more moisture. Using the conditioned Sea Wool Sponge, Sponge the tub with the color mixture. Make sure to turn the sponge in different directions to create a even pattern.
Using the same Sea Wool Sponge, Sponge over the tub with SS-81 Shimmering Silver. Allow to dry!
Apply 2 coats of AC-502 Matte Brush on Sealer to the outside of the tub only. Allow to dry!
Cast the mold in usual manner. Allow to dry! Clean the greenware with a Clean-Up Tool. Bisque fire to cone 04.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a Basecoat Brush, basecoat each piece with SS-237 Dark Brown. Allow to dry.
Puppy on the right – Using various size Drybrush’s, drybrush as follows – SS-234 Medium Mocha then lightly with OS- 452 Peach Fuzz. Highlight the paws, face and down the back with SS-45 Buttermilk then SS-135 White. Scarf – drybrush with OS-468 Deep Turquoise then OS-469 Light Turquoise. Highlight with SS-317 Turquoise then SS-135 White. Using a XST02 Stylus Tool add dots with SS-135 White.
Puppy on the left – Using various size Drybrush’s, drybrush as follows – OS-471 Medium Brow, then SS-234 Medium Mocha followed by SS-2324 Medium Mocha with some SS-45 Buttermilk in the brush. Highlight the paws, muzzle, ears and stripe on the head with SS-45 Buttermilk then SS-145 White. Scarf – Drybrush with OS-480 Garnet Red then OS-449 Bright Red. Highlight with SS-210 Orange. Using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, add stripes with SS-135 White then OS-476 Black.
Grass – Drybrush with SS-57 Accent Green then OS- 187 Olive Moss. Highlight with SS-19 Country Sage then lightly with SS-276 Lime light.
Ball – Using a drybrush, stipple with SS-276 Lime Light then SS-111 Brightest Yellow. Highlight with SS-135 White.
Bone – Drybrush with OS-492 Peach Fuzz then SS-45 Buttermilk. Highlight with SS-135 White.
Noses and mouth lines – Using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, apply OS-476 Black.
Eyes – Using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, apply 1 – 2 coats of SS-135 White to the eye area. Iris of the eye is SS-234 Medium Mocha. Shade with OS-237 Dark Brown. Pupil and eyelashes are OS-476 Black. Add a highlight with SS-135 White. Allow to dry!
Apply 2 coats of AS-494 Matte Sealer to the piece. Allow to dry!
Apply 2 coats of AS-493 Gloss Sealer to the eyes and noses. Allow to dry!
Cast the mold in usual manner. Allow to dry! Clean the greenware with a Clean-Up Tool. Bisque fire to cone 04.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a Basecoat Brush, basecoat the cats only with OS-476 Black. Allow to dry!
Kitten on the right – Using various size Drybrush’s, drybrush as follows – OS-475 Charcoal then with OS-474 Grey. Highlight paws, face, ears down the back and tail with SS-45 Buttermilk then OS-431 White,
Kitten on the left – Using various size Drybrush’s, drybrush as follows – SS-24 Chocolate Fudge then ss-234 Medium Mocha followed by AA-127 Medium Portrait. Highlight the paws, face area, ears and tail with SS-45 Buttermilk then OS-431 White.
Using a Basecoat Brush, basecoat the straw area and the yarn with SS-24 Chocolate Fudge. Allow to dry!
Straw – Drybrush with SS-194 Medium Taupe then SS-254 Golden Ochre Followed by SS-3 Honey toast. Highlight with SS-45 Buttermilk.
Re-basecoat the yarn on the straw with SS-24 Chocolate Fudge. Drybrush the yarn with SS-92 Royal Fuchsia then with OS-558 Mimi Pink. Highlight with OS-431 White.
Noses and mouth lines – Using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, apply OS-476 Black.
Eyes – Using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner, apply 1 – 2 coats of OS-431 White to the eye area. Iris of the eye is SS-19 Country Sage. Shade with SS-57 Accent Green. Pupil and eyelashes are OS-476 Black. Add a highlight with SS-135 White. Allow to dry!
Apply 2 coats of AS-494 Matte Sealer to the piece. Allow to dry!
Apply 2 coats of AS-493 Gloss Sealer to the eyes and noses. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 Bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Use the Soft Fan to apply two coats of FN-001 White to the front of the tray. Let dry.
Use AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper and a pen to trace the pattern onto the piece.
Use the Script Liner and Liner to apply one coat of SC-302 Wax Resist to the trees and most of the snow foreground, leaving un-waxed areas for shadows. Clean the brush thoroughly after using Wax Resist.
Use a toothbrush to spatter wax to the sky area.
Use the Soft Fan to apply slightly thinned SC-31 The Blues to the lower sections of the sky. Brush a coat over the trees to allow color to bead up for the first coat only. Remove some of the beaded color if too much is applied.
Add thinned SC-12 Moody Blue to the brush to the finish the upper sky. Let dry completely then apply a second and third coat of the thinned color to avoid a streaky look. Avoid the trees on the second and third coats. The Script Liner can be used between the branches.
Use Script Liner to apply one coat of thinned SC-12 Moody Blue or SC-31 The Blues to the snow banks. The un-waxed area will tint with this color and create shadows.
Use the Soft Fan to apply three coats of FN-001 White to the back of the tray. Alternatively, you can apply two coats of SG-701 Star Dust to the back for a sparkly look.
Using the Black Designer Liner and metal tip, outline and detail the traced lines.
Using the Round, apply 1 thinned coat of Copper Wash to the trees.
Using the Round, apply 2 coats of tree trunks, inside the coffee cup and tire.
Using the Round, apply 2 coats of Basketball to the hot dogs and the band around the compass.
Using the Round, apply 2 coats of Sunkissed to the window.
Using the Round, apply 2 coats of Crackerjack Brown to the sticks holding the food.
Using the Round, apply 2 coats of Old Lace to the marshmallow, every 3rd flag and the center band on the camper.
Using the round and Liner, apply 2 coats of Can’t Elope to the rim on the tire, stem on the compass and needle, the camper stand, every 3rd flag and the doorknob.
Using the Round, apply 2 coats of Teal Next Time to the door and lower section on the camper.
Using the Round, apply 2 coats of Blue Yonder to the areas above and below the Old Lace band on the camper.
Using the Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of Stoned Denim to the rim and back of the plate up to the foot area, leaving the bottom dry footed.
Using the Soft Fan, apply 2 coats of matte Clear to the center area of the plate.
Place on a well kiln washed shelf and fire to shelf cone 5/6.
Cut a round base out from the slab by tracing a circular item of the desired size.
Begin building coil pot by rolling out coils from pieces of clay.
Attach around the rim of the base using a slip & scoring technique.
Once coils are attached, smooth over texture with your finger to straighten the connection and create a smooth surface.
Continue to build up vase, curving slightly outward or inward to achieve desired shape.
Once vase is built, smooth out outer texture by using a serrated rib on the outside of the pot and then going over it with a smooth metal rib to re-distribute the clay into a smooth surface finish.
Allow pot to dry slowly, once fully dry bisque fire to Cone 04.
Planning Your Comic Strip:
While waiting for vase to be bisque fired take the time to plan out your comic strip by considering the following:
What story would I like to tell on my vase?
How can I depict this story with only imagery and symbols (no text)?
Who are my characters?
How many panels will I need to tell my story? (recommended 3 or 4)
Make a sketch of your comic strip to base your final draft off of.
Comic Design:
Once vase is out of the bisque kiln, use a string to measure around the section of the vase the comic strip will go. Cut out pieces of paper of equal sizes to represent your comic strip panels.
Draw out your final draft comic strip onto these panels.
Trace panels onto tissue paper, indicating size of each panel by tracing full shape.
Put materials aside to be used in decoration.
Wipe bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dust.
Using a soft fan brush, apply 3 coats of Apple Green (UG-68) to your vase, allowing underglaze to dry in between coats.
Coat inside of vase with brush if you can reach inside. If you cannot reach inside- thin underglaze to a heavy cream consistency with a little bit of water and pour into the vase, shake around and pour out.
Start by applying a thin coat of Leaf Green (the darkest green) to the bottom 1/3 to 1/2 of the vase.
Apply a thin coat of Apple Green (the lightest green) to the top 1/3 to . of your vase.
Apply a thin coat of Spring Green (the medium green) in the middle of the two other greens.
While underglaze is wet, work quickly switching between color applying thin layers of glaze to blend. Allow underglaze to dry overnight.
Allow Apple Green to dry overnight.
Apply color bland over base coat using soft bristled brush(s) and UG-68 Apple Green, UG-22 Spring Green, UG-21 Leaf Green.
It is the easiest to apply a color blend if you have a brush for each color- if you do not have enough brushes- clean your brush off well when alternating.
Sgraffito:
Using masking tape, lightly tape panels in place on vase lining up the tops of the panels.
Holding tissue paper in place, trace drawn lines with magic marker to transfer image to pot.
Once all lines have been traced, remove tissue paper from pot revealing comic panels.
Using a small brush first, establish the borders of each frame- edges may need to be altered slightly to accommodate the gradual angle of the vase.
With various sizes of soft bristled detail brushes, apply Jet Black (UG-50) to one section of your design at a time.
Give the underglaze a moment to set (count to 5) and then while the black is still wet, go in with your sgraffito tool to create the lines in your drawing.
If you pull away too much you can re-apply the black.
Be sure to clean off the end of your tool while using it so that you create clean sgraffito marks.
Continue using this wet sgraffito technique to realize the designs in each of your comic panels.
(Optional) to create a decorative boarder using this same technique surrounding the comic panels or at the top or bottom of your vase.
Allow underglaze to dry fully overnight.
If no clear glaze is desired- fire vase to cone 06 for a full matte finish.
Clear Glaze
For a gloss finish, add 2 coats of S2101 Crystal Clear Brushing to your pot using a soft bristled brush.
Thin the Crystal Clear Brushing glaze with a little bit of water to a heavy cream constancy and pour glaze into inside of your pot.
Swirl around and dump extra out- coating the whole inside.
Allow glaze to dry fully.
If you have glazed the bottom of your vase be sure to use stilts when firing to Cone 06.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Trace the pattern onto the tile using AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper and a pencil.
Squeeze out around 1 TSP of SG-409 Bright Green onto the palette. Using the Script Liner, apply 1 coat to the gray portions of the pattern.
Using SG-401 Black in the bottle, trace over the lines of the pattern. You can smear the lines with the tip to make them thicker in different areas. This will make the pattern look more fluid.
After the Designer Liner is dry, apply 3 coats of CC-101 Transparent using the Soft Fan. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Fire to cone 06.
After tile has completely cooled, squeeze around 1 TBS of SS-138 Flat Black onto the palette. Use the sponge to apply the paint over the tile. Wipe off with a damp sponge or paper towel.
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper over the front of the tumbler. Trace the lettering using the pencil of freehand ‘love’. Try to center it on the tumbler.
Place the ½” and 1” heart stickers around the lettering. Outline the hearts with a pencil.
Place the bubble wrap on a flat surface, textured-side up. Squeeze around 1 TBS of CN 202 Bright Grey onto the palette. Dip the sponge on a stick into the glaze and sponge the bubbles. Repeat until all bubbles have glaze on them. Take the bubble wrap and press the glazed side around the tumbler.
Remove all stickers.
Using the Script Liner with CN 081 Light Wine, CN 261 Light Grape and CN 292 Bright Purple, apply 1-2 coats to the hearts. One coat will produce pastel colors (as shown). Two coats will produce more vibrant colors. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with CN 253 Black, outline the hearts and lettering.
Using the Soft Fan with CN 081 Light Wine, apply 2 coats to the inside of the tumbler. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Dip in Pure Brilliance Clear Dipping.
Fire to cone 06.
Form
MB-1455 Stemless Wine Tumbler
Colors
Duncan colors / Mayco colors
CN 081 Light Wine – SC-1 Pink-A-Boo
CN 202 Bright Grey – SC-35 Gray Hare
CN 253 Black – SC-15 Tuxedo
CN 261 Light Grape – SC-85 Orkid
CN 292 Bright Purple – SC-53 Purple Haze
Pure Brilliance Clear Dipping – NTCLR Clear One Dipping
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper over the front of the tray. Trace the pattern using the pencil.
Place the ½” circular stickers onto the large pot (5-10). Place the ¾” stickers onto the small pot (10-15).
Using the Script Liner with CN 022 Bright Saffron/SC 24 Dandelion, apply 2 coats to the bottom 1/3 of the tray. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with CN 201 Light Grey/ SC 60 Silver Lining, apply 2 coats to the inside of the large pot. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with CN 182 Bright Kiwi/SC 26 Green Thumb, apply 2 coats to the corresponding dark green leaves. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with CN 151 Light Blue Spruce/ SC 96 Aqu-ward, apply 2 coats to the corresponding light teal leaves. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze CN 182 Bright Kiwi/SC 26 Green Thumb and CN 151 Light Blue Spruce/SC 96 Aqu-ward onto the palette to make the third leaf color. Mix 1:4 parts. Using the Script Liner, apply 2 coats to the remaining leaves. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with CN 253 Black/SC 15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the pots. Apply over the edges of the dots, but do not completely cover. Completely covering them can cause the adhesive to stick to the tray. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Remove dots as soon as the glaze loses its shine.
Using the Detail Liner with CN 253 Black/SC 15 Tuxedo, outline the leaves, stems and pots. Use the Soft Fan to apply 2 coats to the back of the tray. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Use FN 254 Black Licorice or SG401 Black Designer Liner to make dots on the background. If using Designer Liner, be sure to not apply too thick or the glaze will pop off in firing.
Dip in Pure Brilliance Clear Dipping or NTCLR Dipping
Fire to cone 06.
Form
MB-882 Rectangle Tray
Colors
Duncan colors / Mayco colors
CN 022 Bright Saffron – SC24 Dandelion
CN 151 Light Blue Spruce – SC96 Aqu-ward
CN 182 Bright Kiwi – SC26 Green Thumb
CN 201 Light Grey – SC60 Silver Lining
CN 253 Black – SC15 Tuxedo
FD 254 Black Licorice – SG401 Black Designer Liner
Pure Brilliance Clear Dipping – NTCLR Clear One Dipping
Wipe down the bisque with a damp Synthetic Sponge to remove any dust.
Optional step. If you are placing the piece outside environment the inside of the piece should be glazed to retard the absorption of water. Thin some S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing in the Plastic Cup to the consistency of heavy cream. Pour the thinned glaze into the sphere and/or pedestal. While working quickly, rotate the piece to cover the inside of the piece. Pour out the excess glaze to drain and dry. Use a damp Synthetic Sponge to remove any glaze from the outside of the ware. Let dry.
Apply 3 coats of EL-124 Stormy Blue to the Sphere. Apply 3 coats to the top and bottom trim on the pedestal. Back off the 3rd coat about ¼” from the top edge where the main portion of the pedestal starts.
Shake and Stir CG-722 Seawind. Apply 2-3 coats to the middle section of the pedestal evenly dispersing the crystals.
Stilt and Fire the piece to Shelf Cone 05. The slightly higher glaze firing temperature will produce the silvery sheen to the glaze. Firing to Cone 06 will not produce the silvery metallic sheen in the glaze
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Pour around 1 TBS of SG-501 Sculpting medium onto the palette. Pour around ½ oz into the AC-220 Detailer Tip and 1 oz Bottle. Cut off the very end of the tip.
Dip the sponge into the sculpting medium and sponge the rim of the hat and gloves.
Use the detailer bottle with sculpting medium to make a design on the collar. I did 2 parallel lines around the edge of the collar and dots in the triangles created by the upper line.
Using the Script Liner with SC-16 Cotton Tail, apply 2 coats to the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-20 Cashew Later, apply 3 coats to the face. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-26 Green thumb, apply 2 coats to the irises of the eyes. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-48 Camel Back, apply 3 coats to the hair. Use the Detail Liner to apply 1 coat to the eyebrows. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Squeeze 1 TSP of SC-2 Melon-Choly onto the palette. Dip the sponge in the glaze and sponge the cheeks. Use the Detail Liner to apply 1 coat to the lips.
Take MC-001 6mm Low Track Masking Tape and make horizontal stripes on the pants. Be sure to press down firmly.
Using the Script Liner with SC-73 Candy Apple Red, apply 2 coats to the pants. Allow glaze to dry between coats. Before the last coat is completely dry, remove the tape.
Using the Script Liner with SC-73 Candy Apple Red, apply 2 coats to the shirt and hat. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-27 Sour Apple, apply 2 coats to the gloves. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, apply 2 coats to the boots. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the details on the elf.
Using the Soft Fan with SG-704 Speckta-Clear Peppermint, apply 1 coats elf, avoiding the face and hair. Apply a 2nd coat to the areas that were plain bisque (hat band, collar, stripes on pants)
Cast the mold in usual manner. Allow to dry! Clean the greenware with a Clean-Up Tool. Bisque fire to cone 04.
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using a Basecoat Brush, basecoat each piece with OS-474 Grey. Allow to dry.
Using a Basecoat Brush, apply thinned OS-471 Medium Brown to an area at a time and wipe back with a soft cloth, leaving the color in the crevices.
Using various size Drybrush’s, Drybrush as follows: Sven’s beard with OS-474 Grey then with OS-431 White. Astrid’s hair – drybrush with a 2 coats of OS-493 Sandalwood OS-436 Gold then OS 485 French Vanilla – highlight with OS 432 Ivory.
Noses – Drybrush with OS-471 Medium Brown then with OS-467 Light Brown.
All Red areas: Astrid’s – coat, dress, hair bands – Sven’s hat, mittens, pants – Drybrush – OS-568 Fire Thorn, at least 2 coats, then with OS-449 Bright Red, then some OS-439 Hot Orange – highlight with OS- 438 Orange peel.
All Green areas: Astrid’s hat and mittens. Sven’s coat – SS-57 Accent Green then OS464 Bright Green then OS-463 Medium Green, highlight with OS-556 Lemon Grass.
Astrid’s apron – drybrush with OS-556 Lemon Grass then with OS- 431 White.
Shoes – drybrush with 2 coats of OS-476 Black. Highlight the tips of the shoes with OS-474 Grey.
Using the both the XST02 and the XST03 Stylus Tool, add OS-431 White dots to the hat edges then connect using a CB-110 #10/0 Liner to create snowflakes. Using the XST02 Stylus tool ad dots of OS-483 Real Red to the edge of Astrid’s apron. Allow to dry!
Apply 2 coats of AS-494 Matte Sealer to each piece. Allow to dry!
Apply 2 coats of AS-974 Glittering Snow to the tops of the hats. Allow to dry!
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply three coats of IN1026 Very Black to the back of the tray.
Using a pencil, draw the design on the front of the tray using the photo as a guide.
Using FD254 Black Licorice, go over all of your pencil lines. Let dry completely.
Fill the five AC-222 Applicator bottles with the five colors of Neon Concepts – CN501 Neon Yellow, CN502 Neon Blue, CN504 Neon Orange, CN505 Neon Green, CN507 Neon Red. Make sure the glaze is the consistency of milk. Add a small amount of water to the glaze if you need to
Apply two colors to each section by first applying one around the edge, then while still wet add a second color to the middle. Roughly swirl them together as you apply the second color. Use the following combinations: Red/Orange, Orange/Yellow, Yellow/Green, Green/Blue, Yellow/Red. Let dry.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 coats of PG Pure Brilliance Brushing onto the front of the plate.
Stilt and fire to cone 06.
Form
MB-1064 Tray
Colors
Dunan colors
CN501 Neon Yellow
CN502 Neon Blue
CN504 Neon Orange
CN505 Neon Green
CN507 Neon Red
FD254 Black Licorice
IN1026 Very Black
PG Pure Brilliance Clear Brush-on
Decorating Accessories
5 AC-222 Large Bottles and Writer Tips
CB-604 Soft Fan Brush
Miscellaneous Accessories
Water
Pencil
Sponge
Duncan|Low-Fire|Earthenware Bisque|Home Décor|Table Top
Begin with properly fired shelf cone 04 bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust
Pour about 1/4 cup of IN1026 Very Black into the cup and thin slightly with a splash of water. Ratio should be about 5 parts glaze to 1 part water.
Mix up thinned glaze and pour into the inside of the vase. Roll it around until the inside is coated and pour out any extra glaze.
Pour out about a quarter sized puddle of each color of EZ Stroke onto the palette.
Using a wet CB-310 Flat Shader, load the brush with EZ028 Leaf Green and apply one coat to one of the facets at the top of the vase The strokes should go straight up and down and should look translucent. If the EZ Strokes go on too thick, go over it with a brush loaded with plain water to thin it out. There should be four ‘stripes’ on each facet. Repeat on the facet directly across from it on the vase, leaving three facets in between.
Repeat step 5 on the facet one space over and one space down. Keep repeating until you get to the bottom. The painted facets should be in a diagonal line.
Repeat steps 5 and 6 for the other three colors – EZ050 Pueblo Purple, EZ058 Poppy Orange and EZ075 Passion Red.
Test both colors of French Dimensions on the palette or piece of paper. They should flow easily out of the bottle. Use a needle tool if you need to unclog the tip. If the product is too thick and won’t easily come out of the bottle, add some water and stir well with a wooden skewer.
Using the FD254 Black Licorice French Dimensions, draw an L shape with a spiral at the end on each red and green facet.
Using the FD258 Pure White French Dimensions, draw the same shape on each orange and purple facet. Let dry.
Using the CB-604 Soft Fan Brush, apply 2 coats of PG Pure Brilliance Brush-on onto the vase.
To make stamp: Cardboard and liquid glue (such as Elmer’s or wood glue)
Create Stamp:
Cut a desired size of cardboard large enough for your stamp design
Draw design with liquid glue and let dry completely
Check design by placing under paper and rubbing crayon overtop to reveal design
Add more glue if needed
Prepare your surface:
Using a soft bristled brush, apply one coat of Flat Black (SS-138) or other desired base coat color to front of cardboard.
Let dry completely
Printing:
Using one leaf at a time, sponge desired color of Magic Metallic (Copper Metallic MM-102 or Gold Metallic MM-105) onto leaf (or other printing object) using a small flat sided sponge. You may want to cut a larger sponge into small pieces
Once one side of the leaf is covered make your first test print by placing the leaf painted side down onto a scrap piece of paper. Use a clean sponge to firmly press the leaf into the paper
After pressing the full surface of the leaf down on the paper, peel back the leaf to reveal the print
This test print will show you if you applied too much paint or not enough paint to the leaf before printing. If your print does not have the desired amount of texture in it maybe try using the opposite side of the leaf for printing. You can test print you leaf as many times as needed
When ready to print your leaf, apply desired amount of metallic paint to your leaf and place it paint side down onto your prepared cardboard surface
Press leaf down with your clean sponge as you did when test printing, then pull leaf back to reveal print
Continue to print leaves of different sizes and shapes using both of the Magic Metallic colors
To create a patinaed leaf, print leaf with Magic Metallic paint as instructed, immediately after pulling the leaf back to reveal your print lay a layer of Green Patina (MM-202) on top of the wet paint with a brush.
Watch the Green Patina color develop as oxidation occurs
Note: for oxidation to occur the Green Patina liquid must be applied while the metallic paint is wet
Any metallic paint layered over an area where wet Green Patina liquid is will also patina
Continue to print leaves using all printing techniques above until you are satisfied with your composition
You can touch up any areas of un-wanted metallic marks with a single coat of the acrylic used for your background color
Form
Flat piece of Cardboard. You may also use any craft of ceramic surface.
Colors
Flat Black (SS-138)
Alternative Background Color: Accent Green (SS-57)
Begin with properly fired cone 04 bisque. Moisten a sponge and wipe bisque to remove any dust.
Place AC-230 Clay Carbon Paper onto the plate. Position the pattern over the paper and trace with the pencil.
Using the Script Line with SC-6 Sunkissed, apply 2 coats to the lemons. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
Using the Script Liner with SC-1 Pink-A-Boo, SC-96 Aqu-ward, SC-89 Cutie Pie Coral and SC-9 Jaded (in that order), apply 2 coats to the different background sections. Refer to pattern for which color to use on each section.
After the background glaze is dry to the touch, place the pattern over the platter, lining it up with the lemons. Trace the leaves with the pencil. You should be able to see a slight indent in the glaze.
Using the Detail Liner with SC-15 Tuxedo, outline the lemons and leaves. Add random hash marks to 3 different sections of the background.
Using the Script Liner with EL-101 Oyster Shell, apply 1 coat over the bare areas in the lemons. After those areas are dry, use the Soft Fan to apply 1 coat to the front of the platter.
Using the Soft Fan with EL-101 Oyster Shell, apply 3 coats to the back of the platter.
