Check out the video at the bottom of this page to learn how to create this project!
- Begin with a properly fired bisque. Use a damp sponge to remove any dust.
- Fill pouring cup with SC-74 Hot Tamale, SC-75 Orange-A-Peel, SC-6 Sunkissed, SC-26 Green Thumb, SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue, and SC-13 Grapel.
- Use the pour and tilt technique to cover the surface of the canvas with glaze. Let glaze dry.
- Once the glaze is dry, apply AC-302 Wax Resist to the canvas in a unique design. Do NOT mist once wax resist has been applied.
- Retape the sides.
- Fill new pouring cup with SC-15 Tuxedo and SC-16 Cotton Tail.
- Pour glaze around the Wax Resist traveling the glaze while you pour.
- Mist the tape while it’s still intact to the sides then remove it to let the glaze drip down.
- Fire to cone 05.
- You can use Stroke & Coat or Foundations
- You have to thin Stroke & Coat by 15% (15 mL – 100 mL)
- Foundations is already thin enough to produce nearly identically results
- Can use small plastic cups and layer glaze inside the cup instead of using pre-made pouring cups
- If you are using hand built pieces, you will need to leave space for gases to escape
- You can glaze the piece before you pour so there is glaze already there incase you miss a spot
- Higher firing temperatures tend to burn out the colors
- Spraying the sides while the tape is still intact helps with flowing glaze over the side
- The longer you stay in one area pouring glaze the finer the lines you’ll get
- If you have small empty gaps you can mist them or use a brush and dab the glaze to fill the spot
- This technique can be done on greenware to shorten the firing process
- Choosing monochromatic, analogous or other compatible color combinations will keep from creating muddy neutrals in your pour
- It takes just under 4 ounces of glaze to cover an 8″x10” clay canvas (use this when deciding how much glaze you will need)
- Do not force dry. It will cause cracks
- You can twice fire pieces to correct issues if necessary
Learn more about this technique here!