Handbuilt Bunny Vases

Designer: William Pulse



  1. On the canvas material, roll out a slab of clay using the two ¼” Wooden Slats and the Rolling Pin. Smooth the textured surface from the canvas with the Rubber Rib if necessary.
  2. Cut out a piece slightly larger than the shape of the mold. Drape the clay down into the Negative (Slump) portion of the mold. Use a dry sponge to gently coax the clay down into the cavity of the mold. Once the clay is into the mold, use the dry sponge to compress the shape into the mold. Use a Fettling Knife to trim along the top of the mold the excess clay leaving it flush with the top surface of the mold. Roll out a coil of clay about 3/8” in diameter and long enough to encircle the inside of the clay form. Score (texture) the inner lip and apply slip to the area. Attach the coil around the inner edge of the oval form webbing the clay pieces together. Let set for a few minutes. Remove the form from the mold and invert to sit on a flat surface.
  3. Repeat Step 2 but don’t remove the form from the mold. Score (texture) the edges of both sections and apply a generous lather of slip to the textured areas. Align and apply the first section to the one in the mold and gently but firmly press the two halves together. Once the pieces are completely together, remove from the mold. Use a Modeling Tool to smooth and web the clay seam together to form an oval shape. You can use one of the flat ¼” Slats to gently “paddle” the shape to further form it if necessary. Once the shapes have been put together and the seams have been fused, pierce a hole with the Needle Tool into the top side of the oval form. This will allow you to deform the bottom of the piece without splitting the seam by allowing the air to escape. Once the bottom has been flattened, seal the small needle hole, this will aid in keeping the oval shape.
  4. Cut out two pieces of clay using the pattern for the ears. Fold them creating a center fold. Bend them slightly and allow to set for a few minutes to firm up before attaching them to the oval body. Score (texture) the ear bases and body where you want to attach them. Apply some slip/slurry to each piece and attach. Web the clay into the piece and blending the clay into the body. You may need to add some clay to help reinforce the ear attachments. Blend and smooth these areas using a Modeling Tool and Rubber Rib.
  5. Use the Clean Up Tool to cut out an opening between the ears. You may need to use the Rubber Rib to further smooth the overall surface of the piece. Let the piece dry to leather hard
  6. consistency. Check the inside seams to make sure they are fused well and to smooth up before it dries further.
  7. Clean up the surface and other areas of the rabbit with various Modeling Tools. Drape loosely with a plastic bag to allow the piece to dry slowly.
  8. Before painting, check the piece to make sure it is completely dry. Use the Clean Up Tool to refine any area that needs attention. Use a damp Synthetic Sponge to wipe down the piece.
  9. If your clay isn’t “white” you can apply 2-3 coats of UG-51 China White to the front side (tummy area) of your rabbit. Let dry.
  10. Note*** This step can be omitted if you want and are careful about applying the color around the tummy area. Use a Pencil to mark off the tummy section of the rabbit. Condition CB-604 Soft Fan with Liquid Detergent. Place some AC-302 Wax Resist on a piece of Aluminum Foil. Apply 1 good coat of AC-302 Wax Resist to the tummy area. Wash Brush in warm soapy water after use. Let the piece dry.
  11. Apply 3 smooth even coats of a Fundamental Underglaze of your choice to the bunny excluding the tummy area. Try not to get any of the color onto the wax area. The color should bead up and roll away from the waxed areas. Use a damp Synthetic Sponge to remove any color off the wax.
  12. Draw in the features on the bunny with a Pencil. Use CB-110 Liner to paint in the face using UG-50 Jet Black
  13. Make sure the piece is completely dry before firing. Fire the piece to Shelf Cone 04. Allow extra venting time during the first part of the bisque firing process due to the wax burning off the ware.
  14. Place some AC-302 Wax Resist on a piece of Aluminum Foil. Dampen the Natural Sea Wool Sponge and then dip it into the Wax Resist. Print (Veil) a pattern of wax over the body of the rabbit excluding the face, tummy and inside of the ears. Let dry. Wash Sponge with Liquid Detergent and cool water immediately after use.
  15. Thin some S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing into a Plastic Cup to a melted ice cream consistency. While working quickly, pour the thinned glaze into the vase rotating to completely cover the inside of the vase. Pour out excess glaze and invert to drain and dry. Apply 2-3 coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing to the entire outside of the bunny. You will notice that the glaze will bead up over the waxed areas. This is what it is supposed to happen. Do not wipe off excess glaze from the wax areas. Let dry.
  16. Stilt and Fire to Shelf Cone 05-06. Allow extra venting time during the first part of the firing process due to the wax burning off.



  • Approx. 4-5 lbs Moist low-fire Clay, slip or slurry made from the same clay used
  • Negative (Slump) portion of CD-777 Oval


  • UG-50 Jet Black
  • UG-51 China White 
  • S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing
  • UG-22 Spring Green
  • UG-87 Regal Purple
  • UG-216 Peach.

Decorating Accessories

  • CB-110 Liner
  • CB-604 Soft Fan
  • AC-302 Wax Resist

Miscellaneous Accessories

  • Pattern
  • Clean Up Tool
  • Fettling Knife
  • Various Modeling Tools
  • Needle Tool
  • Rubber Rib
  • Sponge
  • Natural Sea Wool Sponge
  • Pencil
  • Rolling Pin
  • Two 1/4” Wooden Slats
  • Canvas material
  • Plastic Cup
  • Mild Liquid Detergent
  • Aluminum Foi